Nice job Jerry getting it even, Jerry. I love laying down the final gloss coat on dark colored metallic bases. I get a bit nervous still when spraying light blue colored metallics, worried about stripes or blotchiness showing up when cleared. Just with very light blues though. Your trick with the stir stick is genius. I was helping a kid down the street paint his first car last weekend and for the life of him, he couldn't figure out the ratios on the mixing cups. The kids got brains, he's 18, buys and sells cars while going to university to become a lawyer. The stir stick markings would have worked perfectly! I'll show him this video. Have an excellent weekend
Beautiful work Jerry. It's nice to see the videos take the car from the initial damage to the finished project. Thank you so much for making well produced videos.
Nice to see you painting again. I guess the filter system is working to keep the smell down, so it doesn't bother your neighbor, as you stated in your previous video when reviewing the filtering system.
He did not complain at all - which is great. There was quite a bit of fumes but the filter took care of a lot it - very little left the building. I'm happy with it but it does cost $ for the filters. I don't paint horribly often though so.... Take care BBM - always enjoy hearing from you - have a good weekend 👍😊🏈
Jerry: Another great video. Nice tip about putting a light in the corner. It makes perfect sense once you explained it. Enjoyable as usual. You know your stuff. IG.
Damn, Jerry :) looks absolutely beautiful. Its better than brand new. Thank you for all the info. Yes i always use light in the background and look for the wet reflection. Have a great weekend!
Great video young man. Talk to your paint rep or salesman at your paint supplier . Most every paint manufacturer have these stainless steel paint sticks which make it easy to achieve any mix ratio. I have many PPG mixing sticks and even really old DUPONT ones from decades ago that I still use! Cheers, WilliamI
very well explanations and I'd like to share what I face doing my restoration project of square body chevy, don't ever never buy junky amazon spray gun all the time pay well on spray gun and don't run with small air compressor or use very well known guns that run on low CFM specially when need to put clear coat it will consume lot of air si when it start starving for air you will get unsatisfied. Note: I'm not expert on painting skills but these are the issue I faced and cost me time and efforts to overcome the reason of failure with sudden runny paint or large orange peel. at the end thanks to you and others who share their knowledge on you tube for guys like us appreciate and god bless you
Thanks for sharing that. With painting, there's all kinds of pitfalls and variables to be aware of. It's almost impossible to avoid all but the trick is to avoid most 😊
10 minutes. You're welcome - feel free to ask any ?s and let me know how it goes for you. Maybe try a practice panel first - you can even use and old coffee can or something. If you can paint something small - just copy that on something big :)
As always you give some great tips and tricks on getting a great paint job. Really enjoy watching and learning. Do you have a recommendation for a spay gun for the Home hobbyist without breaking the bank? I know you get what you pay for but it won't be used all the time either. Thank and have a great weekend
The Harbor Freight purple gun is great - th-cam.com/video/lwHDMcDWVzQ/w-d-xo.html The HF Spectrum and Black Widow is great too. Campbell Hausfeld makes an affordable gun from Home Depot also - DH790000AV Finally Sharpe makes a great gun that's affordable also - Sharpe Finex 3000. I've used and have or had all of these guns and they all work great for the DIY guy.
Jerry Followed your instructions and got good results. I applied 4 coats of clear, expecting to cut and buff. Sanded the clear to a dull flat finish with 1000, 2000 then 3000 to eliminate my orange peel . When I cut it with Meguiars Diamond cut 85, I could see the shine coming back. Expected higher degree of shine with Meguiars 83 polish, but it dulled the finish. Welcome your suggestions. Frank
I should have added, I also subscribed to Spraywaycustoms and watch a lot of his videos. Not that I can duplicate your technique, at least I can understand the “what” needs to be done and see “how” to do it.
Hi frank. Next week you'll really like the video as it all about what you just talked about. Glad to hear you subbed to SWC - the guy is a very talented painter and a nice person too :)
It's basically speed and overlap. To get it wetter - slow down and overlap more. A tack coat would be faster and not worrying about overlap or an "even" coat :)
I used the 3M Performance Spray Gun with a 1.4mm tip. 1.4 is pretty common and can spray just about anything. Any gun will work well as long as it is clean - even the purple gun from HF performs well :)
With clear over base, is it ok to sand between coats if there's an imperfection such as a run or some other kind of impurity that gets on the finish? Great video!
@@LakesideAutobodyif you have to sand between coats, do you sand the entire car? Also, it's OK to clear an hour after base dries, but primer needs to cure correct?
Yes - 1.4 for both. I would have liked to raise the pressure for the clear but I try hard to keep it low as I have neighbors within 50 yards of the garage. Not too close but would rather stay out of trouble :)
Nice work! Quick question, what is the fastest drying single stage paint? I'm about to paint my daughters car (beige), but I unfortunately have to do it outside, so I need the fastest drying paint. Was thinking of doing TCP Global Restoration Shop Acrylic Urethane. (I'm in South Florida btw) Still hot here, will try and do the work in November or December when it's 80, and not 95 with 95% humidity.
That's so funny you ask that. Last year I painted a horse trailer outside about this time of the year. I used Paintforcars.com Urethane Paint Kit. It dried so fast that the "lady bugs" that were landing all over it flew right off - honestly! If one did get stuck, I didn't try to pick it off. After the coat, I would use an air gun to give them a blast of air and they'd blow right off leaving no damage. Awesome!. The paint is good quality, lays down nice and shines really well - here's the trailer - th-cam.com/video/wxJKrr984JM/w-d-xo.html Get some extra reducer 'cause it's thick paint - reduce about 4 parts paint to 1 parts activator to about 3 parts reducer (more or less depending on your liking)
Beautiful work. Your videos have helped me a lot on my first bodywork/paint project. I painted last week, the base went on really nice, the clear went on pretty nice. But after second coat of clear, I got a bunch of solvent pops. So disappointed after months of work!........ I don't think it was too heavy. The gun was about 4 inches away. I waited about 10 minutes between coats...garage a bit under 70 degrees. a medium hardener ...Is it possible I need to wait longer between coats of the clear? How would I know when it is ready for second coat..Thank you for the videos!
I've never ran into solvent pops before but I can tell you exactly how I've always painted so you can compare: Mix the clear and hardener at the right ratio then add about 1-2 parts reducer. So if you mix 4 parts clear to 1 part activator, you'd add 1-2 parts more of reducer. The first coat is wet but not super wet. Let that dry for about 10-15 minutes. The 2nd coat is wet. sometimes I might even go around one more time with extra reduced clear to get it to really lay down. I think I never get solvent pops because instead of spraying paint/clear/material on thick to get it to lay down, I depend on the reducer to "wet" it down or cause it to go on wetter. Please let me know if you figure out what caused it. Maybe spray a couple coats of clear on a practice panel to test. Keep me posted and don't worry about it - stuff like that happens - it happens to anyone that does body work and paint - no question - we've all made horrible, extra work causing mistakes. Be thankful for it - every mistake is so painful it absolutely forces you to learn and become good fast 👍💯😊
Your videos are very helpful. I have some questions about respirators for spraying BCCC and single stage urethane, What type of respirator and what filters would best protect from paint toxians ? Do you think full face respirators are needed ? What about fresh air respirators $$$ ? .. I'm just a DIYer, not going to do this often (just my stuff)..and don't know what to purchase. Thanks
This mask will work fine for you - 3M 07193 Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly Organic Vapor , Large ---- The only reason magazines and other reports suggest fresh air respirators is because folks forget to or never change out their masks - the carbon filters get saturated and don't filter the vapors well anymore. Since you're not doing it every day keep your mask sealed up in a plastic bag in the house and use it only for painting. Change it out once a year - no questions asked if your are worried. I'm sort of a DIY guy too and change it out about every year whether or not I think it needs it.
I always thought you had to wet sand the base coat before putting on the clear. That's how I've always painted motorcycle gas tanks, but I'm not a pro.
You can wet sand solid color base coats if you want but I would be careful wet sanding metallic bases before the clear - might have an effect on the metallic flakes :)
Wonderful. Does the clear get reduced and a hardener too? Can you paint outside in the summer? I've only used rattle cans and I get runs. How do you handle runs? Does the over spray stick to everything in the garage? ---- I watched your other video on preparing the paint. You said in that, "I might paint some sealer first on any bare metal spots before going to paint." What exactly is sealer?
Clear gets a hardener too. It can be reduced to your liking. You can paint outside - above 60 degrees. Runs can be sanded out and buffed. Overspray does settle on stuff but I don't really care about it. Look around in the video - I've been painting in this garage for almost 10 years.
What kind of paint did you use? Urethane , acrylic , or enamel ? Also I painted with enamel and the odor was so strong that I can still fill it in my nose days later. This is why I’m asking what type of paint. I’m also using a spray mask from harbor freight. Not sure if it’s poor quality. Thank you for your help in advance, 👍 yr videos
I use urethane. I also use lacquer and enamel sometimes. Use this mask and get a new one when you start to smell paint - you should not smell anything when using the 3M mask - 3M 07193 Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly Organic Vapor,
Hi Jerry, very informative video, thx for sharing. Question I have here is, what type of gun you are using on the video, HVLP? I am using the "Inokraft Drizzle D1" LVLP gun with my 15 gallons air compressor at home, should I leave the fluid volume at wide open as well on LVLP gun? thx
Yes - normally on every gun you will leave the fluid control wide open. Then only time you'll close the fluid down is if you really want to limit the amount of paint coming out like very small spot repairs, tight spots, door jambs, etc.
U-POL 2892 + 2323 Euro Spot/Panel Clearcoat was used in this video but Nason Select Clear is very good and I've used Auto Body Master clear coats and they're good too. For cheap clear, I think it's best to go with U-POL or Speedokote - just an opinion though :)
My son will be driving it in the winter. He doesn't want to rust out the 3000GT. These are great cars BTW if you run into one that's cheap and in good condition check it out. Good MPG and made right here in Michigan - Orion Plant.
How cold is too cold for epoxy primer. It’s starting to get chilly here in Virginia. I have a forced air kerosene heater for the shop. Would that be safe to use?
The kerosene heater is safe but if it's a metal building will cause condensation to form on the metal roof panels. I've never really run into any huge problems spraying when it gets a bit cold except that it takes long to dry. Maybe purchase a paint curing lamp - www.vevor.com/paint-curing-lamp-c_10505/2x1000w-baking-infrared-paint-curing-lamp-602-with-stand-0-1-17m-heating-p_010724255935
Ive got a question and maybe this will help others out. I just layed 3 coats of base over my truck its a urethane basecoat/clearcoat system from Tcp global. I finish sanded my primer with 320 and you could see the scratches, but after clear, they went away and looked really good. Its a dark green metallic. Whats a good grit to use before basecoat? I heard if you use finer than 320 you could have adhesion problems. Thanks -ANDREW
320 on a DA works every time. You could also wet sand with 400 and that would be fine too. Don't reduce the base too much and realize it's common to see those 320 or 400 sand scratches in the base coat - especially on the first 1-2 coats.
@LakesideAutobody. Im looking for advice. I own a 2001 Ford F250 Superduty and want to have my body redone completely. Im not experienced in autobody so not sure where to start. I have a few questions which I hope to get some feedback. I want to just have my truck redone to what it looked liked when I first bought it from factory. I dont really want show quality. But I do want it done right regarding the prep and paint and with quality parts. Without looking at my truck what would you estimate this costing me if I would take it to someone to have done. So to give you some input Im probably going to need new front fenders, rocker panels inner and outer, cab corners. Regarding my bed. Not sure if it would be cheaper to find a bed in better condition than mine to just have redone. My fenders are rusted out as well as most of the bed supports. But I know its not alot to go on but I would like to have an idea of what Im looking at. With your experience could you give me a Low and High estimate of what I might be looking at.
When I was young and if someone bought the fenders and materials, I would do that job for $600-$800. Normally it could be done in a week - that was 6-8 hundred dollars for a week of work in the 80's. Good money at the time. Today, first of all it's hard to find body shops that will even do the work and if they do it's very expensive. I'm going to take my best guess and say if it's very "save-able" anywhere from 2000-10,000. Shops vary greatly in pricing and sometimes the $2000 job is better than the $10,000 job - it all depends on the guy doing the work. The smaller independent shops seem to know more about rust repair as they are open to doing it - not so much the dealerships as they are more about collision repair :)
You can probably spray it right around there but most guys bump it up. I think they do that just as a CYA thing - companies have to stay within the laws. I usually spray right around 15psi with a 3M Performance Spray Gun - seems to work OK that low. Depends on your liking basically - if the paint is laying down nice, you're good :)
It does get on it but somehow it disappears eventually. I do take a leave blower to the place every now and then. I cover things that are important too though. A good exhaust fan will clear the building in a few minutes though too so not much gets a chance to land on stuff :)
They could write it like that but then the hardener part would have to be written as 1/8 which is too confusing for most. Nason says 8:4:1/2 that could be written 16/8/1 or 4:2:1/4 or like you said 2:1:1/8 Which one do you think is the simplest if you were in charge of writing the mix ratio? It's sort of a tough call :)
I just came to the shop to finally spray base coat on the Monte...realized I didn't order the reducer specific to the base. Do you have any thoughts on using a different brand of urethane reducer? It's Urechem base and Grow Automotive 1370 medium reducer. Ugh!
I used to worry about that but with high prices I started using off brand reducers. It didn't make any difference at all. I wouldn't be afraid to use any diff brand, decent quality urethane reducer :)
Just got the second coat on. Somehow I fell off the ladder when spraying the roof and the gun and paint went flying through the air. It got in the door jamb area and some got on the lower rear quarter panel. I assume I finish this job and sand that out tomorrow before clear? Thanks Jerry.
Sorry to keep buggin ya...just don't know who else to ask. I have a bigger problem then my previous comment. After spraying black base on with several coats, I can still see sanding scratches despite sanding the primer to 400. I'm sure they would not be visible with any other color. I would think that sanding the base coat with like 600 grit could possibly flatten everything out. So the base fills the scratches, and the sanding evens everything out...? Then one coat of base before clear? OR...do I just keep laying on the paint till the scratches disappear? 🙏
I think it about doubled since covid - honestly. I was paying around $25 bucks for a cheap gallon of filler pre covid - now - same filler is $50 something. Not cool 🥴
The gun is a 3M Performance Spray Gun - really the main reason for using this gun is the ease of cleaning - clean up is literally a few seconds. No flex additive required for plastic bumpers. Flex additive is sort of history 😊
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You make painting a car seem accessible to amateurs like me!
You can do it. Keep it simple :)
Same here.
The car looks good Jerry. Great DIY tip with the paint stick. Enjoy your weekend
Thanks 👍 - you too Greg. Thanks for checking it out.
Nice job Jerry getting it even, Jerry. I love laying down the final gloss coat on dark colored metallic bases. I get a bit nervous still when spraying light blue colored metallics, worried about stripes or blotchiness showing up when cleared. Just with very light blues though.
Your trick with the stir stick is genius. I was helping a kid down the street paint his first car last weekend and for the life of him, he couldn't figure out the ratios on the mixing cups. The kids got brains, he's 18, buys and sells cars while going to university to become a lawyer. The stir stick markings would have worked perfectly! I'll show him this video.
Have an excellent weekend
Well that certainly makes me feel better about the mixing cups 😊
Thanks for watching Bruce. That's great you're helping out this young fella. Thanks for sharing the video with him and have a great weekend :)
Beautiful work Jerry. It's nice to see the videos take the car from the initial damage to the finished project. Thank you so much for making well produced videos.
Thanks 👍 Bluesman. Hope all is well with you and your family. Enjoy the weekend and send pics of your car and progress when ever - love seeing them :)
Great work Jerry as always, enjoy your weekend my friend 💯
You too UPK - thanks for watching. Hopefully the Lions pull off another win 🏈
@@LakesideAutobody GO LIONS!
Awesome Video! Amazing what can be accomplished without a paint booth! Thanks again Jerry.
Thanks 67. Thanks for watching and you're welcome. Enjoy the week my friend :)
Nice to see you painting again. I guess the filter system is working to keep the smell down, so it doesn't bother your neighbor, as you stated in your previous video when reviewing the filtering system.
He did not complain at all - which is great. There was quite a bit of fumes but the filter took care of a lot it - very little left the building. I'm happy with it but it does cost $ for the filters. I don't paint horribly often though so.... Take care BBM - always enjoy hearing from you - have a good weekend 👍😊🏈
Enjoyed the video…well explained Jerry 🤝
Thanks 👍 Thanks for checking it out SWC - enjoy the weekend. What's your team down there? 🏈 Do you follow any?
Great job Jerry, you make it look easy.
Thanks Leigh - always nice to hear from you my friend. Have a good weekend :)
Jerry: Another great video. Nice tip about putting a light in the corner. It makes perfect sense once you explained it.
Enjoyable as usual. You know your stuff. IG.
Thanks for the kind words Irish Guy - glad you enjoyed the video. Have a good weekend :)
Damn, Jerry :) looks absolutely beautiful. Its better than brand new. Thank you for all the info. Yes i always use light in the background and look for the wet reflection. Have a great weekend!
Thanks for the support and kind comments as always. You have a great weekend to my friend 👍😊🏈
Wow, you don't have to worry about getting the base on wet? That's really good to know.
You don't. And you're right - it makes a huge difference when trying to avoid mottling. Thanks for always watching DIO - have a good weekend :)
Great video young man. Talk to your paint rep or salesman at your paint supplier . Most every paint manufacturer have these stainless steel paint sticks which make it easy to achieve any mix ratio. I have many PPG mixing sticks and even really old DUPONT ones from decades ago that I still use! Cheers, WilliamI
How does that work when pouring into cups that aren't round/square?
Thanks William - much appreciated. Have a good weekend my friend :)
I always enjoy watching your videos
Thanks Tim - enjoy the weekend :)
very well explanations and I'd like to share what I face doing my restoration project of square body chevy, don't ever never buy junky amazon spray gun all the time pay well on spray gun and don't run with small air compressor or use very well known guns that run on low CFM specially when need to put clear coat it will consume lot of air si when it start starving for air you will get unsatisfied. Note: I'm not expert on painting skills but these are the issue I faced and cost me time and efforts to overcome the reason of failure with sudden runny paint or large orange peel. at the end thanks to you and others who share their knowledge on you tube for guys like us appreciate and god bless you
Thanks for sharing that. With painting, there's all kinds of pitfalls and variables to be aware of. It's almost impossible to avoid all but the trick is to avoid most 😊
Looks better than OEM nice job 👍
Thanks 👍 - I appreciate that. Enjoy the weekend :)
Time between base coats ? Thanks I’m trying this for the first time
10 minutes. You're welcome - feel free to ask any ?s and let me know how it goes for you. Maybe try a practice panel first - you can even use and old coffee can or something. If you can paint something small - just copy that on something big :)
Beautiful job keep up the good work
Thanks Patrick - enjoy the weekend :)
You To@@LakesideAutobody
Great video Jerry very informative thanks.
You're welcome - thanks for watching :)
As always you give some great tips and tricks on getting a great paint job. Really enjoy watching and learning. Do you have a recommendation for a spay gun for the Home hobbyist without breaking the bank? I know you get what you pay for but it won't be used all the time either. Thank and have a great weekend
The Harbor Freight purple gun is great - th-cam.com/video/lwHDMcDWVzQ/w-d-xo.html The HF Spectrum and Black Widow is great too. Campbell Hausfeld makes an affordable gun from Home Depot also - DH790000AV Finally Sharpe makes a great gun that's affordable also - Sharpe Finex 3000. I've used and have or had all of these guns and they all work great for the DIY guy.
Thanks and I will check out that video too. Appreciate it
Very good video!
Glad you liked it - thanks for watching :)
Jerry
Followed your instructions and got good results. I applied 4 coats of clear, expecting to cut and buff. Sanded the clear to a dull flat finish with 1000, 2000 then 3000 to eliminate my orange peel . When I cut it with Meguiars Diamond cut 85, I could see the shine coming back. Expected higher degree of shine with Meguiars 83 polish, but it dulled the finish. Welcome your suggestions.
Frank
I should have added, I also subscribed to Spraywaycustoms and watch a lot of his videos. Not that I can duplicate your technique, at least I can understand the “what” needs to be done and see “how” to do it.
Hi frank. Next week you'll really like the video as it all about what you just talked about. Glad to hear you subbed to SWC - the guy is a very talented painter and a nice person too :)
Awesome. Looking forward to it.@@LakesideAutobody
Great video Jerry, what exactly makes the difference between a tack coat and say a wet coat is it gun adjustment or speed ? Cheers 👍
It's basically speed and overlap. To get it wetter - slow down and overlap more. A tack coat would be faster and not worrying about overlap or an "even" coat :)
It looks really good great video what gun did you use and tip
I used the 3M Performance Spray Gun with a 1.4mm tip. 1.4 is pretty common and can spray just about anything. Any gun will work well as long as it is clean - even the purple gun from HF performs well :)
With clear over base, is it ok to sand between coats if there's an imperfection such as a run or some other kind of impurity that gets on the finish? Great video!
Yes :)
Many thanks.
@@LakesideAutobodyif you have to sand between coats, do you sand the entire car? Also, it's OK to clear an hour after base dries, but primer needs to cure correct?
Looks great, Jerry. Did you use a 1.4 tip for both base and clear? Also, did you increase the air pressure a little when applying the clear?
Yes - 1.4 for both. I would have liked to raise the pressure for the clear but I try hard to keep it low as I have neighbors within 50 yards of the garage. Not too close but would rather stay out of trouble :)
Nice work! Quick question, what is the fastest drying single stage paint? I'm about to paint my daughters car (beige), but I unfortunately have to do it outside, so I need the fastest drying paint. Was thinking of doing TCP Global Restoration Shop Acrylic Urethane. (I'm in South Florida btw) Still hot here, will try and do the work in November or December when it's 80, and not 95 with 95% humidity.
That's so funny you ask that. Last year I painted a horse trailer outside about this time of the year. I used Paintforcars.com Urethane Paint Kit. It dried so fast that the "lady bugs" that were landing all over it flew right off - honestly! If one did get stuck, I didn't try to pick it off. After the coat, I would use an air gun to give them a blast of air and they'd blow right off leaving no damage. Awesome!. The paint is good quality, lays down nice and shines really well - here's the trailer - th-cam.com/video/wxJKrr984JM/w-d-xo.html Get some extra reducer 'cause it's thick paint - reduce about 4 parts paint to 1 parts activator to about 3 parts reducer (more or less depending on your liking)
@@LakesideAutobody Awesome man, thanks for the heads-up, and tips. I'll give it a whirl, and let you know how it turns out.
Beautiful work. Your videos have helped me a lot on my first bodywork/paint project. I painted last week, the base went on really nice, the clear went on pretty nice. But after second coat of clear, I got a bunch of solvent pops. So disappointed after months of work!........ I don't think it was too heavy. The gun was about 4 inches away. I waited about 10 minutes between coats...garage a bit under 70 degrees. a medium hardener ...Is it possible I need to wait longer between coats of the clear? How would I know when it is ready for second coat..Thank you for the videos!
I've never ran into solvent pops before but I can tell you exactly how I've always painted so you can compare: Mix the clear and hardener at the right ratio then add about 1-2 parts reducer. So if you mix 4 parts clear to 1 part activator, you'd add 1-2 parts more of reducer. The first coat is wet but not super wet. Let that dry for about 10-15 minutes. The 2nd coat is wet. sometimes I might even go around one more time with extra reduced clear to get it to really lay down. I think I never get solvent pops because instead of spraying paint/clear/material on thick to get it to lay down, I depend on the reducer to "wet" it down or cause it to go on wetter. Please let me know if you figure out what caused it. Maybe spray a couple coats of clear on a practice panel to test. Keep me posted and don't worry about it - stuff like that happens - it happens to anyone that does body work and paint - no question - we've all made horrible, extra work causing mistakes. Be thankful for it - every mistake is so painful it absolutely forces you to learn and become good fast 👍💯😊
Thank you for the advice!...I will try that hopefully this week and let you know what happens..
Your videos are very helpful. I have some questions about respirators for spraying BCCC and single stage urethane, What type of respirator and what filters would best protect from paint toxians ? Do you think full face respirators are needed ? What about fresh air respirators $$$ ? .. I'm just a DIYer, not going to do this often (just my stuff)..and don't know what to purchase. Thanks
This mask will work fine for you - 3M 07193 Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly Organic Vapor , Large ---- The only reason magazines and other reports suggest fresh air respirators is because folks forget to or never change out their masks - the carbon filters get saturated and don't filter the vapors well anymore. Since you're not doing it every day keep your mask sealed up in a plastic bag in the house and use it only for painting. Change it out once a year - no questions asked if your are worried. I'm sort of a DIY guy too and change it out about every year whether or not I think it needs it.
I always thought you had to wet sand the base coat before putting on the clear. That's how I've always painted motorcycle gas tanks, but I'm not a pro.
You can wet sand solid color base coats if you want but I would be careful wet sanding metallic bases before the clear - might have an effect on the metallic flakes :)
Wonderful. Does the clear get reduced and a hardener too? Can you paint outside in the summer? I've only used rattle cans and I get runs. How do you handle runs? Does the over spray stick to everything in the garage? ---- I watched your other video on preparing the paint. You said in that, "I might paint some sealer first on any bare metal spots before going to paint." What exactly is sealer?
Clear gets a hardener too. It can be reduced to your liking. You can paint outside - above 60 degrees. Runs can be sanded out and buffed. Overspray does settle on stuff but I don't really care about it. Look around in the video - I've been painting in this garage for almost 10 years.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks. You're the best. Wish I found you sooner. You are so clear and excellent at teaching.
What kind of paint did you use? Urethane , acrylic , or enamel ?
Also I painted with enamel and the odor was so strong that I can still fill it in my nose days later. This is why I’m asking what type of paint. I’m also using a spray mask from harbor freight. Not sure if it’s poor quality.
Thank you for your help in advance, 👍 yr videos
I use urethane. I also use lacquer and enamel sometimes. Use this mask and get a new one when you start to smell paint - you should not smell anything when using the 3M mask - 3M 07193 Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly Organic Vapor,
Hi Jerry, very informative video, thx for sharing. Question I have here is, what type of gun you are using on the video, HVLP? I am using the "Inokraft Drizzle D1" LVLP gun with my 15 gallons air compressor at home, should I leave the fluid volume at wide open as well on LVLP gun? thx
Yes - normally on every gun you will leave the fluid control wide open. Then only time you'll close the fluid down is if you really want to limit the amount of paint coming out like very small spot repairs, tight spots, door jambs, etc.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the reply and advices ✌
Awesome
nice
Do you set the pressure without the trigger pulled?
You'll pull the trigger and set it. I always leave the compressor at 90 psi if you're wondering about that.
Whats best brand buget clear you like best for over all paint jobs thanks
U-POL 2892 + 2323 Euro Spot/Panel Clearcoat was used in this video but Nason Select Clear is very good and I've used Auto Body Master clear coats and they're good too. For cheap clear, I think it's best to go with U-POL or Speedokote - just an opinion though :)
@LakesideAutobody were do you order online there's so many choices love your viedos
Great vidas always Jerry! Looks like brand new. Wifes car correct ?
My son will be driving it in the winter. He doesn't want to rust out the 3000GT. These are great cars BTW if you run into one that's cheap and in good condition check it out. Good MPG and made right here in Michigan - Orion Plant.
@@LakesideAutobody Yes. Very economical
How cold is too cold for epoxy primer. It’s starting to get chilly here in Virginia. I have a forced air kerosene heater for the shop. Would that be safe to use?
The kerosene heater is safe but if it's a metal building will cause condensation to form on the metal roof panels. I've never really run into any huge problems spraying when it gets a bit cold except that it takes long to dry. Maybe purchase a paint curing lamp - www.vevor.com/paint-curing-lamp-c_10505/2x1000w-baking-infrared-paint-curing-lamp-602-with-stand-0-1-17m-heating-p_010724255935
Ive got a question and maybe this will help others out. I just layed 3 coats of base over my truck its a urethane basecoat/clearcoat system from Tcp global. I finish sanded my primer with 320 and you could see the scratches, but after clear, they went away and looked really good. Its a dark green metallic. Whats a good grit to use before basecoat? I heard if you use finer than 320 you could have adhesion problems. Thanks
-ANDREW
320 on a DA works every time. You could also wet sand with 400 and that would be fine too. Don't reduce the base too much and realize it's common to see those 320 or 400 sand scratches in the base coat - especially on the first 1-2 coats.
Thanks alot man! I Appreciate the feedback and the tips!
How long do you wait between coats of clear ?
10 minutes
@LakesideAutobody. Im looking for advice. I own a 2001 Ford F250 Superduty and want to have my body redone completely. Im not experienced in autobody so not sure where to start. I have a few questions which I hope to get some feedback. I want to just have my truck redone to what it looked liked when I first bought it from factory. I dont really want show quality. But I do want it done right regarding the prep and paint and with quality parts. Without looking at my truck what would you estimate this costing me if I would take it to someone to have done. So to give you some input Im probably going to need new front fenders, rocker panels inner and outer, cab corners. Regarding my bed. Not sure if it would be cheaper to find a bed in better condition than mine to just have redone. My fenders are rusted out as well as most of the bed supports. But I know its not alot to go on but I would like to have an idea of what Im looking at. With your experience could you give me a Low and High estimate of what I might be looking at.
When I was young and if someone bought the fenders and materials, I would do that job for $600-$800. Normally it could be done in a week - that was 6-8 hundred dollars for a week of work in the 80's. Good money at the time. Today, first of all it's hard to find body shops that will even do the work and if they do it's very expensive. I'm going to take my best guess and say if it's very "save-able" anywhere from 2000-10,000. Shops vary greatly in pricing and sometimes the $2000 job is better than the $10,000 job - it all depends on the guy doing the work. The smaller independent shops seem to know more about rust repair as they are open to doing it - not so much the dealerships as they are more about collision repair :)
I wish I could do that good
There's no worries if something goes awry. You can always wet sand and buff. The video next week will be about that exactly. 👍😊
looks good Jerry,drink one for me this weekend
OK - do you like Budweiser or Natural Light?
natty is good
@@LakesideAutobody
👍😊✌@@yeayeasautoadventures
Looks good friend.
Thank you 😋
What grid of Sand paper do you recommend to Sand a car? When it's black before base code clear coat is added? Thanks
You can scuff it with the red pad which is around 320 grit or you can DA sand with 320 - even hand sand with like 400.
@@LakesideAutobody great thank you!
Why does my base say if you spray with hvlp spray 8-10 psi? Isnt that way too low for base?
You can probably spray it right around there but most guys bump it up. I think they do that just as a CYA thing - companies have to stay within the laws. I usually spray right around 15psi with a 3M Performance Spray Gun - seems to work OK that low. Depends on your liking basically - if the paint is laying down nice, you're good :)
How do you not get overspray on everything in your shop?
It does get on it but somehow it disappears eventually. I do take a leave blower to the place every now and then. I cover things that are important too though. A good exhaust fan will clear the building in a few minutes though too so not much gets a chance to land on stuff :)
Nason has always confused me, wouldn’t that formula just simplify to 2:1 based on how it’s written and how you measured it?
They could write it like that but then the hardener part would have to be written as 1/8 which is too confusing for most. Nason says 8:4:1/2 that could be written 16/8/1 or 4:2:1/4 or like you said 2:1:1/8 Which one do you think is the simplest if you were in charge of writing the mix ratio? It's sort of a tough call :)
I just came to the shop to finally spray base coat on the Monte...realized I didn't order the reducer specific to the base. Do you have any thoughts on using a different brand of urethane reducer? It's Urechem base and Grow Automotive 1370 medium reducer. Ugh!
I used to worry about that but with high prices I started using off brand reducers. It didn't make any difference at all. I wouldn't be afraid to use any diff brand, decent quality urethane reducer :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks, Jerry!!!
Just got the second coat on. Somehow I fell off the ladder when spraying the roof and the gun and paint went flying through the air. It got in the door jamb area and some got on the lower rear quarter panel. I assume I finish this job and sand that out tomorrow before clear? Thanks Jerry.
Sorry to keep buggin ya...just don't know who else to ask. I have a bigger problem then my previous comment. After spraying black base on with several coats, I can still see sanding scratches despite sanding the primer to 400. I'm sure they would not be visible with any other color. I would think that sanding the base coat with like 600 grit could possibly flatten everything out. So the base fills the scratches, and the sanding evens everything out...? Then one coat of base before clear? OR...do I just keep laying on the paint till the scratches disappear? 🙏
Is it just me , or did the price of autobody materials get way out of hand lately?
I think it about doubled since covid - honestly. I was paying around $25 bucks for a cheap gallon of filler pre covid - now - same filler is $50 something. Not cool 🥴
What kind of gun did you use? Do you use flex additive for the bumper?
The gun is a 3M Performance Spray Gun - really the main reason for using this gun is the ease of cleaning - clean up is literally a few seconds. No flex additive required for plastic bumpers. Flex additive is sort of history 😊