DEEP TILLAGE TOOL FIXES HARD PAN & DRAINAGE ISSUES, SUBSOILER
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 เม.ย. 2022
- Several weeks back we were a bit too eager to try out our Dirt Dog HD Subsoiler. The ground was still frozen and we very quickly broke our shear bolt, which we took to indicate we were too early in the season to run a ripper. But now we've thawed out and are going to try it again with our Kubota M4D-071 in preparation for a screen planting we're going to put in for privacy and for stealthy movement during deer hunting season.
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Hydraulic Top Link: amzn.to/3rmqaAF
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Thanks for watching! Get more info on the products in this video at the links below!
Dirt Dog HD Subsoiler: bit.ly/3KwOasl
Hydraulic Top Link: amzn.to/3rmqaAF
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I think the longer shanks are the way to go and helps collect those trash root balls that can be removed at the row end. Would like to see even some short surface shanks to help gather up and keep the trash with the implement until the row end. I'd want one with some topsoil cutting disks int front on the deep ripping shanks as well. Decent vid overall though.
Courtney, you may want to mention to your viewers that if you are using one of those you may want to call Miss Utility, or like organization in your state, to be sure you don't cut an underground utility. Hitting an electric, gas or fiber optic line is not only dangerous, but, it will also hit you in the pocketbook when you are hit with fines.
you use a subsoiler after you tilled the grass sod that way you lift up te small compacted layer of soil from the tiller and lose up the soil sobthat the roots can go deeper more easely.
but you don't want to go to deep because then you are gonna disturp the ground live to much and mix up the different ground layers to much, you should go 8 to max 12 inches.
its an great thing to do this about every 6 years to your seedbeds.
and you use a cultivator to losen up seedbeds a bit deeper and get the ground nice and fine but don't disturp the groundlive.
Greatings from the Netherlands.
With four-wheel-drive you should have your front bucket on with a bucket of dirt added weight in the front more traction
I used a deep ripper in my vineyard, even rows one year odd numbers next year and I would alternate. It was a massive difference in soil quality, drainage.
Excellent! The hydraulic top link is a true charmer.
I use a subsoiler to: work up ground I'm going to dig in or want to scrape off, to run low voltage wires, and to pull up very small stumps (4" or less).
The more I see of Dirt Dog the more I like them.
I just bought the same top link yesterday. It was nice seeing you use it.
You're already at an advantage because your in soft ground. i would like to see it ripp in some hard ground! Thanks for sharing your video, Mr. Courtney
Holy cow - that was like throwing an anchor down behind your tractor! But once you got it going, it looked like it was really getting some work done for you. Excellent, simple tool that just gets 'er done.
This is what the tractor is dreaming of becoming: th-cam.com/video/jZzMdfLo5wU/w-d-xo.html
Used to pull a Jd 9shank with a 330hp JD8430 and let me tell you if you sinked the shanks as deep as the could go it would make that tractor come to a stand still in a hard packed field.
I know you're schedule doesn't allow, but it seems to me the subsoiler would be more effective in the fall. That would allow the rain/snow, freezing/thawing of winter to recondition the ground. Looks like 80-100 hp would be needed to drag that tool with the shanks all the way in the ground.
My Dad used a Massey Ferguson 1135 with the t6 354 motor making about 115hp, and we pulled a 5-shank ripper through mancos shale and clay. The key was having liquid ballast in the rear tires. Most tractors have plenty of power but no traction. Had to run grade 3 or grade 5 for shear bolts, but that ripper was hell-for-stout, so it never broke anything other than shear-bolts.
great way to establish a drainage ditch with just a little more work with a blade to shape the ditch
Great video
Looks like a good subscriber for certain. Appears to be too wet, but not sure what the clay/ sand content is in your area. One big caution though is rip in straight lines only, turning with the shanks buried will bend them or the frame. I have one from my neighbors in my scrap pile to prove it! LOL 👍
Yeah there is still frost in the ground here in Michigan surprisingly. Coming from the construction industry I know rippers take a lot of power to pull running big four five foot six foot long rippers on dozers still kind of surprising though to see you stopped in your tracks in that Kubota although I know they're not very heavy tractors.
I tried to buy the same top link through Ebay. They shipped it to the other side of the country. The sent another one and FedEx is sort of f sitting on it in Europe.
I've occasionally left the bucket on with a half load in it to help the front axle pull. Sometimes I think it made a difference.
Do you think a single tine subsoiler would have worked better for desired depth?
We did the fields with only 5 shanks. Could not pull the six it came with and we had 15% slippage all the time on a 350hp case
Great video. Thanks. Try your draft control next time as opposed to using the 3pt control to keep the tractor moving.
How do you like the transmission in that tractor compared to being used to always running a hydrostatic?
Courtney, would u be able to get a hold of a backhoe, including subframe for a 2032r? New or used.
I think the longer shanks are the way to go and helps collect those trash root balls that can be removed at the row end. Would like to see even some short surface shanks to help gather up and keep the trash with the implement until the row end. I'd want one with some topsoil cutting disks int front on the deep ripping shanks as well. Decent vid overall though.
Don't know if you found it yet, but there is a great sandwich and pasty shop right next to the hardware store. Highly recommended.
GWT , I bought a 1025r. Did I make a right choice ? Also I want a canopy that fits covers the front and backhoe.. .
Interested in what you’re planting for a screen? We have a project similar
Did you have any extra weight in the rear tires, i.e. liquid?
Your 6x6 bar should be level front to back when in the ground and side to side, as you change the depth this will change also. Should make it pull a little easier. If it won't pick up high enough shorten your lift arms some. Looks like nice equipment.
A friend was ripping or subsoiling his land like this on contours in all his pastures some years back and someone commented: "I wouldn't want to be his neighbor downhill from him as you wouldn't get any runoff from that land." And that is true, opening up these deep furrows in the ground catches all the water which then goes down deep into the ground instead of running off and eventually to someone else's pond or creek. Great for me, not so much for the lower land downslope from me.
Well letting it thaw a bit works a lot gooder! 😉
Wetter the ground the deeper your tractor will create compaction lol. And as a rule on my Case IH 2500 inline ripper depending on what ripper point i run the MRD 2 inch takes about 28 horse per shank and then my 5-7 inch wide wing tips take around 45 per shank. Best results were always around 12 inches deep any more depth just wastes fuel .
Where cyclin' meets farmin': "If you wait for the perfect conditions, you'll never get anything done."
Ok I have this same exact ripper in Bushhog brand with one long shank instead of 2. I run it on my M7060 with loaded radials and cast centers. I have done a considerable amount of acres with it now. I originally thought I needed the 2 shank....wrong! A 2 shank ran deep needs 100+HP in IMO. The single shank seems perfect with the M7060 as you can run all the way down (22" in the ground) in about 5th low range and move along. Extremely hard areas put me down to 2nd gear and will spin the tires some. I also have a hydraulic top link. I noticed yours is not keeping the ripper level sometimes. This makes it MUCH harder to pull. Keep and eye on it because the force in the had link will slowly compress it in and allow the implement to not stay level. The supplies shear bolts are a joke with these monsters. Put a grade 5 and don't look back.
To wet for sure add wheel weights and rip in straight lines they dont like to turn in the ground.
Busy and still answered 3 e mails. Bet that top link is in your Amazon store.
You ain't got quite enough "tractor" for this bad boy, dude....
Looks like ur on gold rush trying to break up the permafrost :)
More weight on the tractor might help
Ground just too wet to do a good job.
What speed? I try to got 3.5 to 5mph. That seems to help. But im still learning the subsoil game.
Speed really doesn't matter.
-Mainly it's shank angle - adjust angle by the Top link, so it pulls the tool in constantly @7-10 inches ( too aggressive can dull the tips quicker )
-Tip condition - most ag ripper tips can be flipped when dull, and this resharpens the under side of the tip.
-and soil condition - ground frozen or too dry.
@@emerkamp1 thanks for the heads up. Love learning
Why did you want to go that deep?
Nothing to do with this video, but I have a question. I'm about to purchase a new JD 3025e with FEL and backhoe. I'll be using this for moving dirt and leveling/maintaining my property (less than 10 acres) I'll be using a Frontier 60" BB & pallet forks, but no PTO implements for the foreseeable future. Would 25hp be too little for this tractor? I'm pulled towards the 3025 due to the lack of any emissions & price. My dealer has plenty of 3032's available as well, but as I said emissions, whatever machine I use will be sitting and running for extended periods of time so I fear the DPF on an emissions tractor will fill quickly. Is this a valid concern for a machine that'll be doing alot of backhoe work? ANY advice would be much appreciated before I make my purchase here in a few days.
THIS IS JUST MY OPINION but... 25hp on a 3 series frame is pretty anemic. For bucket work and ground engaging equipment you will notice it. The tier 4 emissions controls are no big deal. If the 3032 is affordable for you then I would recommend it.
Also, I'm going to recommend skipping on the backhoe. Take whatever money you were going to spend on the hoe and put it into a bigger tractor or renting a mini excavator. You'll never get enough work out of it to justify the price. After you take it off for the first time and put on the box blade you are going to dread putting it back on.
Hell, the backhoe cost probably makes up the difference between a 3032 and a 4044 or more
Interesting, i didn't know we could put a backhoe on the 3E series. I have the 3032 and the emissions thing doenst stop you from working at all. When its 100% you push the button while your working and it burns it off or whatever it does.
@@1989Falkor the backhoe requires significant dealer modification to the tractor frame to mount the backhoe to the tractor. So on top of the 8-10k for the peice of equipment you'll get a real nice bill for the frame work. Would not recommend
Rippers are great tools to loosen up soil. Your Kubota (is that an M4-71?) struggled once or twice, but I wonder if you could have used a three-shank? Some manufacturers say 20-40 hp per shank, so your M4 just qualifies for 3. What do you think?
That ground is way too wet to be worked.
You need more tractor for using that tool haha.
You need some weight on those wheels ... I'm assuming you don't have anything inside the tires (maybe you do). Also, your top link wasn't even close to being where it needed to be.
Too much subsoiler for that size tractor! It generally takes 50 hp per shank, only exception might be in sandy soil. Front end weights may have helped so the front wheels are pulling more too.
Personally I would rather replace the proper shear bolt 50 times, than use the wrong bolt and then break something and have to wait while it is getting repaired.
You are nose heavy. Lenghthen your top link till the frame is level. The parabolic shank is designed to lift the soil. It makes it pull easier. The way it is set now the shanks are almost verticle making it much harder to pull. 18 to 20 inches is plenty deep enough for agricultural purposes.
Bet that top link isn’t “Made in America”.
Yeah screw them wheel spacers. Want a wider tractor by a wider tractor
First
I don't get how this ripping implement could be useful to anyone. It's right up there with the disk harrow. These implements have been supplanted with better designs and better ideas. A single tune might be useful for laying conduit?
What better designs and ideas are you thinking of? For a smallish operation, rippers and disks on a 3-pt work great.