(sorry for my poor english) hello i want to help you out with your desoldering station... here is the right procedure as Pace, Jbc, Hakko, Weller and Jbc recommend: 1: look at the pads... does it have a big ground plane? is it double sided or/and multilayers? does it have an eyelet? etc... depending on what there is, adjust the temperature to have a quick melt... (my recommandation: if its rohs (lead free) solder, add lead solder... ) 2: heat the pad while wiggling for about 2 sec. 3: while continuing wiggling, press the pump for 3 sec... it will cold down the pad and pin and this will prevent bridge solder.... 4: release the button and youre done! this is important to do theses steps... you can see in action on youtube PaceWorldWide videos... if you maintain well your soldering station and do theses step you will always have good results 😉
Should have show the board with the thermal camera after as well. Also set up the thermal camera at the start while everything is cool. Maybe you can see one component heating up faster than others
Seems like the work of a capacitor with low EPR (Equivalent Parallel Resistance), when they begin to leak DC the usual side effect is over biasing a transistor! This particular phenomenon can't be found with an ESR meter, the only way is to pull out the capacitors and test them out of circuit with an LCR Bridge Meter which will give you all the details like, ESR, EPR (aka drain or DC leakage), capacity, quality and phase angle... There's a really great video on such a device which I ended up getting after watching it on eBay for years, I would have got it sooner but held off because it looked like it was complicated to use but after watching a video on how it works, I got it ASAP and I have never looked back! If you are interested, I can link the video below, the device cost me $95Au and should be cheaper for you and your US dollar! The device in the video is the older version which is still available and almost identical to the new version which I got, the only difference between the two capacitor is that the new version went with smd components, internal USB C rechargeable lithium battery, smaller size and blue backlighting instead of green... They both have every single bit of information needed on the one screen all at the same time! I can't recommend it enough! There's plenty LCR Bridge Meters out there but they will cost more! They don't show everything on the same screen which you have to scroll through to see all the details and either write down the details or try and remember them because you really need to look at everything at once! Your in circuit ESR tester is great for a quick scan across the capps but it's totally blind to the other failure modes of capacitors, that's why you most likely have transistors that are burning up! Transistors like Vacuum tubes will last a very long time, it's usually something else that will cause them to fail. As you saw for yourself, the transistors that we hot actually were good! You have leaky capacitors, another way to check is to look at their capacity! Low capacity equals high ESR, a good capacitor should be just below what it's rated for, if the capacity has gone up! It's leaking DC and because of the leak, it takes longer to measure giving the impression that it larger than what it really is, there's no such thing as an overachieving capacitor! The EPR failure mode is the one that catches everyone out! It's the one that destroys everything else in it's path... So if you are interested, ask me for the link and I will post it below, after watching this video you will know that you have to have one! Thanks for this great video, I really wanted to see the temperature drop on that hot transistor, it would be great to see it sorted...
I wanted to see the temp drop thermal after the fix. He said it was still hot but would have been satisfying to see thermals never the less. Great video anyway TT
Thanks! it's always a tough call to keep 10+ year old TV's alive, I always try as long as the LCD screen is good and they are LED back lights and not fluorescent. Thanks for the tool links also.
Really great idea! Like the tune while the hour passed also. I had an older big Samsung TV given few years back, the standby caps were swollen so got them replaced with decent caps and it's been brilliant since. Those bad samwha caps were a big problem back then as you probably know. Really appreciate your video 🙂
I like the information presented on the video. Since the temperature is still high after replacing the parts, would it be best to replace the power supply? Would like to have the latest for the TV if it is still working. Just curios. Thanks for all what you do helping/showing people how to fix their TV.
the tv closed up in the vertical orientation will receive internal airflow aiding the cooling.... with the back off in a horizontal arrangement the airflow maybe severely reduced. 🧐
Hey Tampa...I'm Confused. Did You Not Find a Main Logic Board, and While You're Waiting, Your re-Diagnosing the Power Supply Board? I Hope you Find the Information Board!!
yeah my fault I did record but mic was off. temp went from 300f+ to 220f still too hot. I think it was more tiny surface mounted diodes or surface mounted transistors under the board inline with the transistors on those heatsinks. I'll do a follow up video later if Tv starts to shutdown again.
@@TampaTec Thanx. You have to be careful using IR camera with shiny metal objects. They read incorrectly. Most guys will put black electrical tape on shiny metal to get more accurate readings.
Nice Video Bro. Yeah those Fets normally run really hot on PS bd. Pushing like 200Vdc to drive that Xformer. Finally got me a Flir too like u said, just arrived a few days ago, havent got a chance to use it yet though, lol. Keep'um comin!
Hey mate, my son has thrown the remote at my 3 week old TV! It’s got a quarter of the screen with no picture and vertical lines and the rest of the screen watchable but bad horizontal lines. I can see the cracks in the back of screen(?) where remote impacted but the screen itself is in tact. Is it fixable? I’m keen to give it a go, I can’t bear to throw it out already. Thanks, Paul
Is this the same on an LG? My 55LM5800 just starting shutting off after about an hour or so (black screen w/ audio). I have to cycle power to get it working again. The picture is great while it's working but the backlight keeps shutting off for some reason. Are these the same symptoms your Samsung TV had? You never really said in the video. I don't have a flir camera but my EEVblog DMM has a built-in thermocouple. Should I start my troubleshooting by testing for constant 5v like in this video? Any other suggestions?
Hi. How come you touch the PSU parts and didnt get a electric shock. Some of that components like capacitors runs 400volts. Fid you shorted the high voltage capacitors? I dont get it. Hugs.
i asked you and I am pandering since two months i can not solve my issue ....... i have aftron tv 55 inch which is not working. firstly i have problem backlight but i have picturs and sound ...... right now i dont have backlight and pictures but i can not test the sound ...... power stand and on/ off is working properly
Not being critical (you are a good tech) but never blow on connections to "clean" them. Use compressed air. What you are blowing in the connection is moisture and whatever you had coming out in spit on your device. Again, not critical!
HOW YOU GOING TO BE ON TV RUNNING YOUR MOUTH ABOUT SOMETHING YOU HAVE NO FACTS ON CLEAR INSIDE KNOWLEDGE!!!21 YOU BETTER WAKE UP REAL TALK!...LEARN THE STEPS!!!TM
if you like these tech repair videos hit that like button 👍
Thanks Mr tempa tec
Be careful I got a shock from touching a heat sink on a power supply.
@@cat-lw6kq lol
@@bigdog8882 has that happened to you?
@@cat-lw6kq Oh Yeah, just make sure that your other hand is not touching the TV.
“This desoldering tool is the best tool ever!”
Transistor doesn’t come out😂
(sorry for my poor english) hello i want to help you out with your desoldering station... here is the right procedure as Pace, Jbc, Hakko, Weller and Jbc recommend:
1: look at the pads... does it have a big ground plane? is it double sided or/and multilayers? does it have an eyelet? etc... depending on what there is, adjust the temperature to have a quick melt... (my recommandation: if its rohs (lead free) solder, add lead solder... )
2: heat the pad while wiggling for about 2 sec.
3: while continuing wiggling, press the pump for 3 sec... it will cold down the pad and pin and this will prevent bridge solder....
4: release the button and youre done!
this is important to do theses steps... you can see in action on youtube PaceWorldWide videos... if you maintain well your soldering station and do theses step you will always have good results 😉
Should have show the board with the thermal camera after as well. Also set up the thermal camera at the start while everything is cool. Maybe you can see one component heating up faster than others
yeah agreed
would have been good to see
was looking forward to it actually
Seems like the work of a capacitor with low EPR (Equivalent Parallel Resistance), when they begin to leak DC the usual side effect is over biasing a transistor!
This particular phenomenon can't be found with an ESR meter, the only way is to pull out the capacitors and test them out of circuit with an LCR Bridge Meter which will give you all the details like, ESR, EPR (aka drain or DC leakage), capacity, quality and phase angle...
There's a really great video on such a device which I ended up getting after watching it on eBay for years, I would have got it sooner but held off because it looked like it was complicated to use but after watching a video on how it works, I got it ASAP and I have never looked back!
If you are interested, I can link the video below, the device cost me $95Au and should be cheaper for you and your US dollar!
The device in the video is the older version which is still available and almost identical to the new version which I got, the only difference between the two capacitor is that the new version went with smd components, internal USB C rechargeable lithium battery, smaller size and blue backlighting instead of green...
They both have every single bit of information needed on the one screen all at the same time!
I can't recommend it enough! There's plenty LCR Bridge Meters out there but they will cost more! They don't show everything on the same screen which you have to scroll through to see all the details and either write down the details or try and remember them because you really need to look at everything at once!
Your in circuit ESR tester is great for a quick scan across the capps but it's totally blind to the other failure modes of capacitors, that's why you most likely have transistors that are burning up!
Transistors like Vacuum tubes will last a very long time, it's usually something else that will cause them to fail.
As you saw for yourself, the transistors that we hot actually were good! You have leaky capacitors, another way to check is to look at their capacity! Low capacity equals high ESR, a good capacitor should be just below what it's rated for, if the capacity has gone up! It's leaking DC and because of the leak, it takes longer to measure giving the impression that it larger than what it really is, there's no such thing as an overachieving capacitor!
The EPR failure mode is the one that catches everyone out! It's the one that destroys everything else in it's path...
So if you are interested, ask me for the link and I will post it below, after watching this video you will know that you have to have one!
Thanks for this great video, I really wanted to see the temperature drop on that hot transistor, it would be great to see it sorted...
Can you tell us where to find this video?
thank you.
I read all that for nothing. No link? Wth
I wanted to see the temp drop thermal after the fix. He said it was still hot but would have been satisfying to see thermals never the less. Great video anyway TT
Thanks! it's always a tough call to keep 10+ year old TV's alive, I always try as long as the LCD screen is good and they are LED back lights and not fluorescent. Thanks for the tool links also.
Camera was worth it. 300 degrees is burn and blister time. Good job. Thanks TT.
Nice to see a realistic repair where you have to dig around to find the issue.
Nice one using thermal camera to troubleshoot electronics! Well done!
Really great idea! Like the tune while the hour passed also.
I had an older big Samsung TV given few years back, the standby caps were swollen so got them replaced with decent caps and it's been brilliant since. Those bad samwha caps were a big problem back then as you probably know.
Really appreciate your video 🙂
Great video Paul 👍👍👍👍
It's Vince!!! Love your videos my man!!!
I guess if it can detect people who are sick, it can also detect bad parts.
I like the information presented on the video. Since the temperature is still high after replacing the parts, would it be best to replace the power supply? Would like to have the latest for the TV if it is still working. Just curios. Thanks for all what you do helping/showing people how to fix their TV.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video.
Great video. 👍 I love the digital micro camera. Going to look it up.
the tv closed up in the vertical orientation will receive internal airflow aiding the cooling.... with the back off in a horizontal arrangement the airflow maybe severely reduced.
🧐
Nice job buddy as said glad to see the fixing videos coming back 👍😀👌
Hey Tampa...I'm Confused. Did You Not Find a Main Logic Board, and While You're Waiting, Your re-Diagnosing the Power Supply Board? I Hope you Find the Information Board!!
Awesome stuff , thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. 👍
You never scanned the board with thermal camera again after parts swap. Did the temps get cooler or stay the same???????
yeah my fault I did record but mic was off. temp went from 300f+ to 220f still too hot. I think it was more tiny surface mounted diodes or surface mounted transistors under the board inline with the transistors on those heatsinks. I'll do a follow up video later if Tv starts to shutdown again.
@@TampaTec Thanx. You have to be careful using IR camera with shiny metal objects. They read incorrectly. Most guys will put black electrical tape on shiny metal to get more accurate readings.
Seek Thermal Compact Pro with Macro Lens for the win. BTW thank you for this share.
Nice Video Bro. Yeah those Fets normally run really hot on PS bd. Pushing like 200Vdc to drive that Xformer. Finally got me a Flir too like u said, just arrived a few days ago, havent got a chance to use it yet though, lol. Keep'um comin!
Great info and review as always.👍
Good job sir...very hightech tools.
Hey mate, my son has thrown the remote at my 3 week old TV! It’s got a quarter of the screen with no picture and vertical lines and the rest of the screen watchable but bad horizontal lines. I can see the cracks in the back of screen(?) where remote impacted but the screen itself is in tact. Is it fixable? I’m keen to give it a go, I can’t bear to throw it out already. Thanks, Paul
Good video bro. Btw hello 👋 from Riverview.
Is this the same on an LG? My 55LM5800 just starting shutting off after about an hour or so (black screen w/ audio). I have to cycle power to get it working again. The picture is great while it's working but the backlight keeps shutting off for some reason. Are these the same symptoms your Samsung TV had? You never really said in the video.
I don't have a flir camera but my EEVblog DMM has a built-in thermocouple.
Should I start my troubleshooting by testing for constant 5v like in this video?
Any other suggestions?
Nice repair video 👍
'OL' stands for 'overload'. Basically, above the meter range. I've had a Fluke DMM for over 40 years! (I'm really old)
Nice job on the TV. Would like to know where you got your thermal imaging camera for your phone ? I personally never have seen such a thing.
FLIR makes them for android and iPhone. Very reasonably priced
Thanks for the information
Thanks, Link is in the description. It's also good to use on windows to see if they're allowing energy loss.
Did You Get That Solder Sucker On Shop Jimmy Or Electro Parts?
Great video! Did you ever check temps after you replaced those parts in the video? That was a cliffhanger!
OK so this is why my grocery store sold out of all their mushrooms, people thinking the world is ending I guess. 🤷♂️
Hi. How come you touch the PSU parts and didnt get a electric shock. Some of that components like capacitors runs 400volts. Fid you shorted the high voltage capacitors? I dont get it.
Hugs.
Wait your Not playing pinball?! lol JK THX for showing these vids. taught me a lot.
the samsung tv from 08 -10 were bad for caps,samsung had received a bad batch
Can I determine with thermal camera bad Sony A7s motherboard that was possibly damaged by ESD?
What was the problem?
Sir how can we provide repair kit parts can you give us supplier of the and how can we order it
Did You Get The LCD Magnifire On Shop Jimmy?
thank you for share experience ,it is Important for me😍😍😍😍😍
How can we provide tools and orderparts
i asked you and I am pandering since two months i can not solve my issue ....... i have aftron tv 55 inch which is not working.
firstly i have problem backlight but i have picturs and sound ......
right now i dont have backlight and pictures but i can not test the sound ......
power stand and on/ off is working properly
I Have a samsung Samrt TV 60' I Need this tool on hand
Great to know this
Use multimeter tat gave backlight cannot see numbers to well.
Not being critical (you are a good tech) but never blow on connections to "clean" them. Use compressed air. What you are blowing in the connection is moisture and whatever you had coming out in spit on your device. Again, not critical!
Instead Of Trying To Repair The Power Suply Board I'd Replace It. Cause
Replacing All Those Components
Is A Bunch Of Rigamaroe.
I need help my tv keeps showing red white green blue and black and Ive tried everything on TH-cam to fix it
Watching sir from Philippines
Flir one works with android?
You just wanted to play with your thermal camera.
Sorry but my tv has pink and green screen even when hdmi is not connected to it
If you do I have the mobile you use that to Samsung reported roll
Richard Head its for a $$$$ flir camera
Watching sir, Shoutout sir next video
to much mi bro, send me more plz
👍👍
HOW YOU GOING TO BE ON TV RUNNING YOUR MOUTH ABOUT SOMETHING YOU HAVE NO FACTS ON CLEAR INSIDE KNOWLEDGE!!!21 YOU BETTER WAKE UP REAL TALK!...LEARN THE STEPS!!!TM