Great video Thank you so much for this video and showing all the steps of parts, cleaning especially adjusting the flame. Just what I needed. Thank you so much
@@silwang.8053 ok… had to watch the vid again… the orifice screw has to be backed out a little or you won’t get any gas. The vent has to be somewhat open to get air. I basically messed with both of them to get what I thought was a decent flame with mostly blue but also some orange. As a starting point you’ll need both to be cracked a little. There may not be much useful turning of the orifice screw. And the vent can’t be all the way open. So start with the orifice screw cracked and the vent cracked. Turn on the gas and feel for the gas coming out of the manifold. If you can feel the gas then you should have enough gas to light. If it won’t light then open the vent a little. Make your adjustments in 1/8th or 1/4 turn increments.
It’s tough to find out a whole lot about these heaters. They are practically outlawed. So what exactly is the phenomenon that i experience when after a few days the air burns our eyes and has to much gas exhaust in it? I have plenty of outside fresh air being vented in and out. My gas trims? I’ve more or less figured it out on my own. I was a young kid the last I remember using these stoves. Thanks
@@FeloniousDreamI have a question I have a three burner Dearborn heater sold by Sears and my knob is leaking I have tried tape as you show but still leaking is there a washer or oring that goes with the nut that holds the valve
@@whitneynicole4145 I don’t know exactly what you cleaned but the orifice is possibly the main issue. Could be the orifice screw or the orifice hole clogged itself.
I have a dearborn heater, the valve that goes outside is broken,..the part of the lever that turns to control the flame is broken.., how can i fix it? or what other valve can I use to substitute the original valve? the heater's part number is 5651-6036. Eastwaysales says they are not longer making the part...:(, please help
Great video. Someone gave me one of these and it didnt work. Orifice screw was turned all the way in blocking anything from coming thru and stripped out. I had to drill it out. Was wondering if the screw is needed for operation or if i can just use without it. I can still regulate from the main valve or the house wall valve. Thoughts?
Around 3:20 I’m taking the orifice screw out and show what it looks like. Once you get it set you shouldn’t have to touch it again. You may have a cap over the orifice screw that could cause some confusion as to what you’re turning.
If you did strip the orifice screw you could possibly wrap it in Teflon to adjust it with the heater burning. Get it set where you want it and maybe silicon it in place. You could epoxy it but if it fails you’d have to get the epoxy out to make another attempt. There is a link in the description to a company that makes parts.
Yes i have cap over orifice screw. Cap is in good shape but i had to drill out the orifice screw. Its not good anymore. I sealed cap. Was going to use heater without orifice screw
@FeloniousDream all good. Working like it should. I dont understand the point of orifice screw. I guess its just for fine adjustments. Cant beat these old heaters
Great video
Thank you so much for this video and showing all the steps of parts, cleaning especially adjusting the flame. Just what I needed.
Thank you so much
I had to do a detailed vid because I could not find one. Thank you for your appreciation
@@FeloniousDream I do have a question, you said you can also adjust flame with screw, do you do this before or after adjusting vent ? Thanks
@@silwang.8053 ok… had to watch the vid again… the orifice screw has to be backed out a little or you won’t get any gas. The vent has to be somewhat open to get air. I basically messed with both of them to get what I thought was a decent flame with mostly blue but also some orange. As a starting point you’ll need both to be cracked a little. There may not be much useful turning of the orifice screw. And the vent can’t be all the way open. So start with the orifice screw cracked and the vent cracked. Turn on the gas and feel for the gas coming out of the manifold. If you can feel the gas then you should have enough gas to light. If it won’t light then open the vent a little. Make your adjustments in 1/8th or 1/4 turn increments.
Ok thank so much for the information. I really appreciate it.
Have a great day
@@silwang.8053 let me know how you got it adjusted
Gorgeous. Thank you.
I picked up another one to go through.
@@FeloniousDream I've subscribed so I don't miss it. Thanks.
Well done video.
It’s tough to find out a whole lot about these heaters. They are practically outlawed. So what exactly is the phenomenon that i experience when after a few days the air burns our eyes and has to much gas exhaust in it? I have plenty of outside fresh air being vented in and out. My gas trims? I’ve more or less figured it out on my own. I was a young kid the last I remember using these stoves. Thanks
Sounds like you have too much orange flame. You’ll need to adjust the mixture of gas to air
@@FeloniousDreamI have a question I have a three burner Dearborn heater sold by Sears and my knob is leaking I have tried tape as you show but still leaking is there a washer or oring that goes with the nut that holds the valve
@@Crazychester250 idk what model you have. I listed a link that goes to a company that can give you reliable information and parts.
@@FeloniousDream thank you
Do you know why my flame on Dearborn won’t turn up by chance ? It just stay on lowest setting ….. we cleaned it as good as we knew how too
@@whitneynicole4145 I don’t know exactly what you cleaned but the orifice is possibly the main issue. Could be the orifice screw or the orifice hole clogged itself.
Are the vent fins adjustable on the Dearborn gas heaters???
Not that I can tell
I have a dearborn heater, the valve that goes outside is broken,..the part of the lever that turns to control the flame is broken.., how can i fix it? or what other valve can I use to substitute the original valve? the heater's part number is 5651-6036. Eastwaysales says they are not longer making the part...:(, please help
Contact me through Facebook. I don’t understand what you mean by the outside valve.
Where i can buy the prt whole set
@@rendyadams9996 prt?
Great video. Someone gave me one of these and it didnt work. Orifice screw was turned all the way in blocking anything from coming thru and stripped out. I had to drill it out. Was wondering if the screw is needed for operation or if i can just use without it. I can still regulate from the main valve or the house wall valve. Thoughts?
Around 3:20 I’m taking the orifice screw out and show what it looks like. Once you get it set you shouldn’t have to touch it again. You may have a cap over the orifice screw that could cause some confusion as to what you’re turning.
If you did strip the orifice screw you could possibly wrap it in Teflon to adjust it with the heater burning. Get it set where you want it and maybe silicon it in place. You could epoxy it but if it fails you’d have to get the epoxy out to make another attempt.
There is a link in the description to a company that makes parts.
Yes i have cap over orifice screw. Cap is in good shape but i had to drill out the orifice screw. Its not good anymore. I sealed cap. Was going to use heater without orifice screw
@@adamcompton567 let me know how it works or what you had to do to get it to work.
@FeloniousDream all good. Working like it should. I dont understand the point of orifice screw. I guess its just for fine adjustments. Cant beat these old heaters
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Check your audio before you post
What is the issue?
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