Very impressive on how much effort you’re putting into this and what a good job you are doing. Fantastic to see people taking it on themselves to learn a project and fix some thing. Love the Xs650‘s
Get the correct diameter socket for the oil plugs along with a 1/2" breaker bar and a three foot length of pipe to add to the breaker bar for leverage. It helps to be King Kong when breaking them loose. It also helps to have a spotter holding the bike still while you muscle to break them loose.
Great tips! Thanks. I believe it’s a 27mm socket, which I couldn’t source locally. I’ll give it a go when I change the oil next time and don’t want to clean the filter.
I realy like your videos. Keep going mate. Make some experience, learn and get the right tools. You do a great job. Remembers me on my first motorcycle days. Greetings from Germany ✌🏻
I am not 100% sure but I think you may need to use a 4T motorcycle oil if the clutch is a wet clutch which means the engine and clutch share the same oil. Regular engine oil will cause the clutch to slip.
@@edmond601Remember, it's an air-cooled motorcycle, so you can safely use 20w50 oil, and it would be best if it was a full synthetic one dedicated to motorcycles.
@Polon_210 ; personally, I don't think that I would use any synthetic oil on a bike that old, the oil seals are not designed for the thinner viscosity of synth oil and you can develop leaks at the seals, my brother found this out on his Kawasaki 1500 shaft drive when he switched out the oil in his shaft drive to synthetic. We went on a week long bike trip and by the end of the first day, it started to leak oil out of the rear shaft seal. The leak got worse the more he drove. Took us a few days of filling with synthetic oil to decide to go bake to regular oil. Eventually, with the regular Dino oil , the leak stopped and we were able to finish our trip.
alright Eddie, few things i noticed on your video, and got a bit of suggestion (or opinion if you would) i'd like to offer. before i go on, i wanna say it's very good that you are restoring this fine old bike, golden era bikes are awesome and shouldn't be left forgotten, one salvaged classic bike is one saved, good job, keep up the good work. 1. i noticed you used valvoline oil for your bike, while i'm not very sure about the standard that oil have met, it is better to use JASO MA/MA2 certified oil for those wet clutches, as there are additives specifically designed to work with wet clutches. 2. when you reused the oil filters, while i'm not sure what the service manual would suggest, if you could get new parts like petcocks and carb rebuild kit, i'm sure you can get new filters for new oil right? is there any particular reason why you wanna reuse it? 3.a point i'd say is already not relevant but here goes nonetheless, if the bike'd been sitting for a prolonged duration, it is a good idea to put some form of lubrication into the cylinders (fogging spray) before your attempt for electrical starting, cos you don't know if the piston has been biting onto the cylinder or not, gently use the wrench to activate the crankshaft to see if it turns smoothly, if so you got a healthy cylinder. 4. it might be a good idea to do a compression test (if you can), it tells you a lot about the health of the engine 5. i'll keep following for your carb tuning video, i'd like to see if you'd do it in a way where i'd be pleasantly surprised. keep up the good work mate, you're doing well. Nels
Thanks for the tips Nels! I did realize its not JASO certified oil so I will swap out the oil for the proper. Regarding those oil filters, they are metal type filters and the manual did say to clean and reuse. I plan to JB weld the tear in the bottom pan filter, but not planning on replacing them as they are reusable. I rotated the crank using kickshaft when I bought the bike, so I knew the cylinders werent siezed or scraping at all. Def will do compression testing and the carb tuning video may be replaced by a special surprise ... I went and got pwk32 carbs new, so its running smooth as butter right now! I'll be posting that soon. Thanks for the comments and help!
@@edmond601 well done, after all that's settled, you might wanna upgrade the charging and ignition system, as you know those on this bike are quite a weak part
They run better on 2qrts, dont rev cold, cold-oil can split the guaq on bottom filter . Crack each/all bolt/screw 'Just' before unwinding, stops cracking or distorting alloy . Use the 'Widest' screw-driver/flat-blade to pry alloy-castings (if you really have to) or you risk breaking/cracking them . Never use a 'Plumbers' wrench on sump-plugs unless they are totally 'rounded' . These are fairly bullet-proof motors if you look after them , heaps of maintenance-tips online . Dave NZ
Thanks Dave. I’ll check out using less oil, and replace that lower oil filter gasket with a new one now that I got a kit. This engine does feel immortal!
When you check the oil level you don't screw the dipstick in you just rest it where it stops and the recommended level is between the two marks, see this video for oil level and the change Yamaha made to the quantity of oil used after 1975 - th-cam.com/video/1gAjryC-4Us/w-d-xo.html
I’ve used standard 20W/50 from a motor factors in my XS FOR 30 years. Never had a clutch slip issue due to the oil. The XS is a 50 year old design, they didn’t have all the fancy oils back in the day. Most important is to change the oil regularly.
Brilliant . A how to video from a bloke who uses a pipe wrench to undo a sump plug on a motorcycle. Have i jumped out too soon ? Is this a joke? Not going to bother with the next video unless he relabels it how NOT to be a mechanic. No gear and no idea either. God only knows what damage lays ahead for this bike if this guy keeps it much longer. I feel sorry for the bike.
I felt like I had to respond. Nowhere did I say I was a mechanic, I was just documenting a process in which I learned everything from scratch. I certainly found out there are wrong ways to do things, like what you mentioned, and that's part of my learning process! And yes, I have gear. I didn't even take the bike on a spin yet by this point. Why would I wear gear while changing oil, lol? Certainly if you have more experience working on bikes this would seem silly but that's not the point of this video. Thanks for watching.
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Im picking up a 1982 XS650 next week, love these videos man, keep them coming!
Very impressive on how much effort you’re putting into this and what a good job you are doing. Fantastic to see people taking it on themselves to learn a project and fix some thing. Love the Xs650‘s
Thanks, what a great comment to hear! I'll be working on the next episode.
I grew up in Yakima, WA and the hills in the background really remind of that area. I have a1981 XS650SH that I 'm working on.
Great job, we need a Ep. 4 asap!
Good stuff man! Just picked up a 1980 xs650H! Getting her ready for the season!
Get the correct diameter socket for the oil plugs along with a 1/2" breaker bar and a three foot length of pipe to add to the breaker bar for leverage. It helps to be King Kong when breaking them loose. It also helps to have a spotter holding the bike still while you muscle to break them loose.
Great tips! Thanks. I believe it’s a 27mm socket, which I couldn’t source locally. I’ll give it a go when I change the oil next time and don’t want to clean the filter.
@@edmond601
I could be wrong but you'll probably find it's close the an inch and one sixteenth (imperial)
Those oil filters and oil pan were tough to look at. I was like "eek"
Did he died riding the bike or he went to service? Dude we need the rest of the videos
Any updates!? Bike sounds good will be a sweet ride
I just bought one right now I was going to follow all your episodes but it ends with this one !?
Nice job. Greetings from Finland. 😃
I realy like your videos. Keep going mate. Make some experience, learn and get the right tools.
You do a great job.
Remembers me on my first motorcycle days.
Greetings from Germany ✌🏻
thank you! I'll keep it going!
Cheers for the video mate
Nice vid. Cool bike, the seat tail piece is a bit odd.
I am not 100% sure but I think you may need to use a 4T motorcycle oil if the clutch is a wet clutch which means the engine and clutch share the same oil. Regular engine oil will cause the clutch to slip.
You’re right! I will swap oil in the next few months anyways, when I get some time. Thanks for that catch. That pan was gross!
@@edmond601Remember, it's an air-cooled motorcycle, so you can safely use 20w50 oil, and it would be best if it was a full synthetic one dedicated to motorcycles.
@Polon_210 ; personally, I don't think that I would use any synthetic oil on a bike that old, the oil seals are not designed for the thinner viscosity of synth oil and you can develop leaks at the seals, my brother found this out on his Kawasaki 1500 shaft drive when he switched out the oil in his shaft drive to synthetic. We went on a week long bike trip and by the end of the first day, it started to leak oil out of the rear shaft seal. The leak got worse the more he drove. Took us a few days of filling with synthetic oil to decide to go bake to regular oil. Eventually, with the regular Dino oil , the leak stopped and we were able to finish our trip.
Is there any update? Is It running now? I am waiting for another episode
Awesome bro, I have the same bike, but I’m having issues with a high idle
I have the same one, I have a problem with high idle
Love your videos! An XS650 is my dream bike. Any updates on the progress?
u very smart young man
did you ever finish it??
Awesome vids man! Should do some updates
Good vids man
Well done on the bike Dude. Waiting for the next video. Cant help wondering where in the US/Canada you are it looks quite out in the wilds.
I would get the carbs rebuilt by a professional. I would get a new starter. And I would clean all the electrical connections one by one.
I have a 1978 xs650 special ... good job on cleaning up the oil filter, looks great 🙌🏼💯🙌🏼... awesome out door scenes...is that California ?
Thanks man, this was hard work but fun! And no, East Coast!
こんにちは😊
XS650、カッコいいですね❣️
alright Eddie, few things i noticed on your video, and got a bit of suggestion (or opinion if you would) i'd like to offer.
before i go on, i wanna say it's very good that you are restoring this fine old bike, golden era bikes are awesome and shouldn't be left forgotten, one salvaged classic bike is one saved, good job, keep up the good work.
1. i noticed you used valvoline oil for your bike, while i'm not very sure about the standard that oil have met, it is better to use JASO MA/MA2 certified oil for those wet clutches, as there are additives specifically designed to work with wet clutches.
2. when you reused the oil filters, while i'm not sure what the service manual would suggest, if you could get new parts like petcocks and carb rebuild kit, i'm sure you can get new filters for new oil right? is there any particular reason why you wanna reuse it?
3.a point i'd say is already not relevant but here goes nonetheless, if the bike'd been sitting for a prolonged duration, it is a good idea to put some form of lubrication into the cylinders (fogging spray) before your attempt for electrical starting, cos you don't know if the piston has been biting onto the cylinder or not, gently use the wrench to activate the crankshaft to see if it turns smoothly, if so you got a healthy cylinder.
4. it might be a good idea to do a compression test (if you can), it tells you a lot about the health of the engine
5. i'll keep following for your carb tuning video, i'd like to see if you'd do it in a way where i'd be pleasantly surprised.
keep up the good work mate, you're doing well.
Nels
Thanks for the tips Nels! I did realize its not JASO certified oil so I will swap out the oil for the proper. Regarding those oil filters, they are metal type filters and the manual did say to clean and reuse. I plan to JB weld the tear in the bottom pan filter, but not planning on replacing them as they are reusable.
I rotated the crank using kickshaft when I bought the bike, so I knew the cylinders werent siezed or scraping at all. Def will do compression testing and the carb tuning video may be replaced by a special surprise ... I went and got pwk32 carbs new, so its running smooth as butter right now! I'll be posting that soon. Thanks for the comments and help!
@@edmond601 well done, after all that's settled, you might wanna upgrade the charging and ignition system, as you know those on this bike are quite a weak part
They run better on 2qrts, dont rev cold, cold-oil can split the guaq on bottom filter . Crack each/all bolt/screw 'Just' before unwinding, stops cracking or distorting alloy . Use the 'Widest' screw-driver/flat-blade to pry alloy-castings (if you really have to) or you risk breaking/cracking them . Never use a 'Plumbers' wrench on sump-plugs unless they are totally 'rounded' . These are fairly bullet-proof motors if you look after them , heaps of maintenance-tips online . Dave NZ
Thanks Dave. I’ll check out using less oil, and replace that lower oil filter gasket with a new one now that I got a kit. This engine does feel immortal!
You lost me when the hammer got used
Do you still have it ?
so what happened? 10 months? :|
fire extinguisher helment and u glasses protect u eyes
Mine was a 1979 and it was so baddd thr oil looked like venom
When you check the oil level you don't screw the dipstick in you just rest it where it stops and the recommended level is between the two marks, see this video for oil level and the change Yamaha made to the quantity of oil used after 1975 - th-cam.com/video/1gAjryC-4Us/w-d-xo.html
IF IT HAS A WET CLUCH YOU NEED TO USE MOTORCYCLE OIL OR THE CLUCH WONT WORK RIGHT IT IS MADE FOR THE CLUCH FRICTION.
I’ve used standard 20W/50 from a motor factors in my XS FOR 30 years. Never had a clutch slip issue due to the oil.
The XS is a 50 year old design, they didn’t have all the fancy oils back in the day.
Most important is to change the oil regularly.
KI
Brilliant . A how to video from a bloke who uses a pipe wrench to undo a sump plug on a motorcycle. Have i jumped out too soon ?
Is this a joke? Not going to bother with the next video unless he relabels it how NOT to be a mechanic. No gear and no idea either.
God only knows what damage lays ahead for this bike if this guy keeps it much longer. I feel sorry for the bike.
I felt like I had to respond. Nowhere did I say I was a mechanic, I was just documenting a process in which I learned everything from scratch. I certainly found out there are wrong ways to do things, like what you mentioned, and that's part of my learning process! And yes, I have gear. I didn't even take the bike on a spin yet by this point. Why would I wear gear while changing oil, lol? Certainly if you have more experience working on bikes this would seem silly but that's not the point of this video. Thanks for watching.