@@SparkyChannel Hello I have a sauna that use 120v @18amp when I replace my receptacle with t slot 20a 125v gfci should 15a breaker be replaced with a 20a?.
i know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I somehow forgot my password. I love any help you can offer me.
@Gregory Abraham Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Good review. Leviton fan myself. I went with 20A AFCI/GFCI for my new laundry room build... one on the dedicated wash/dryer machine circuit and another for the general receptacles. For my new workshop, I went with 20A GFCI only for the 2 circuits. I was told the AFCI will constantly trip with the use of power tools (table saw, drill press, router, etc. motors).
Thank you...you have an awesome way to teach ... i will be watching all your videos so when is time to hire a licensed electrician i will be able to choose an honest one ...thanks to all the people on you tube that shared videos like yours so awesome to talk to the home hardware in town over the phone due to covid and I totally understood how to choose my receptacles online
Thank you for creating these excellent videos. I have watched most of them. In this video some of the GFCI’s you show have a “self-grounding “ tab on the bottom. If you install one of these GFCI’s into a metal box that is fed with BX then the GFCI is “self-grounded” and there is no need to use the “No Equipment Ground” label. The downstream receptacles will also be grounded since the GFCI has a “legal” ground connection by use of the self grounding tab. My home was built in 1932 and all the boxes are metal and fed with armored cable (BX). The outer jacket of the BX cable serves as the equipment grounding conductor (similar to conduit) and connecting a self grounding GFCI receptacle will allow downstream (load) receptacles to be grounded. Is my reasoning correct?
Yes, absolutely! In your case they did quality wiring back in 1932. You should test all receptacles though to make sure the ground is still good and change out any wiring damaged due to age.
@@SparkyChannel I tested a 3 prong outlet by the washtubs in my 1918 built home, The plug in tester said it was "correct" (so I think it is grounded). I do not see a copper or green ground wire though. So, maybe my outlet is grounded through the metal box also? I need to put in a GFCI to pass inspection. Can you show the GFCI with the so called :self grounding tab" that Paul G. mentioned? I also have a ungrounded kitchen outlet. Will it pass inspection if I install the GFCI, and put the blue label on it that says "NO EQUIPMENT GROUND" ?
When I was in carpenters school 1996 in Chicago they had 5 types of GFCI’s powered and mounted on a board , using a 5 gal bucket of water and a locked on drywall screw gun they submerged it by holding the cord into the water , the gun continued running under water on 4 of the 5 , only one tripped and shut off the power to the drill . I’d like to see you try that test ?
That is correct, because there was no loss in 5ma. The water acted like a conductor. The GFCI or AFCI does not know the difference between a water conductor or copper conductor. If that same bucket was made of metal and the bucket was grounded, then the GFCI would detect a voltage difference and interrupt the flow of current.
@@tucoblondy1643 If the drain was metal or if someone touched the water that was partially grounded it would trip. But it's purpose is to Detect the loss of 5 milliamps or more leaving the circuit. So say you have a faulty cord in the rain and the cord dissipates power to the ground. It would then trip. Hence ground fault circuit interrupter. It's mostly detects faulty equipment that had a ground fault. Unfortunately it does not detect all scenarios. dangerous to electrocution.
Thank you. Very informative. I have an older home with simple breakers. My garage never had GFCI outlets. I'll look into installing those as soon as I can. I also need to put in a GFCI outlet for the plug in hybrid recently purchased. Would you recommend this line be independent of any other lines or would it be OK to run on a line of outlets. I'm not seeing anything in the literature on this. It's a low level charging. I'll be keeping the plug in the garage and likely charging to the driveway when it's not raining.
Quick question sparkies; Leviton or Eaton? Which do you prefer? I prefer Eaton due to the reset switch size and clear indicator when it's tripped. I have had to reset Leviton GFCI's with flat blade screw drivers with more force than should be used. Now there are Leviton Panels being stocked at every home depot. Good luck finding Eaton Ch panels
Hey Bill Got a Question Sir if you don't find an Outlet with 4 Wires present you find only 2 wires with Ground in a say a Bedroom can you put more than one AF/GI outlet in the Bedroom i have 2 outlets I'd like to update and I'd like to use the AF/GI I found a Levinton AF/GI at Home Depot it was 15Amp 120 they only sell them in white at the Store...
Could you explain a little more one GFCI/AFCI protection in particular on the breaker panel side of the system and related codes (GFCI breakers vs. GFCI receptacles and if one method is used is the other still required?) Is there a way to provide arc fault protection for a circuit at the panel if the panel does not have a plug on neutral (e.g. in the older Square D QO panel boxes)....I got a big box of Leviton 46596 panel mount GFCIs from a retiring electrician but just not familiar with these.....where/when would I use a panel mount GFCI?
GFCI breakers can be used to replace same brand non-GFCI breakers. Plug on Neutral is just a more convenient way for breakers, since it automatically connects to Neutral on PoN panels (no extra white wire needed). IMHO, AFCI only really works from the breaker, since it protects the entire circuit from arcs, where an outlet might not see the pattern.
No just change them to 15 amp gfci’s. Not hard just make sure to turn off your breaker that supplies power to the receptacles and test the wires for power to make sure.
You should be fine your breaker will probably trip before anything else would happen. And if it does just know that you're running too heavy of a load on that circuit. Just don't do things like run multiple space heaters on the same circuit or from the same receptacle. Stuff like that. The reality of the situation is that you can probably change out of the receptacles.
Thanks you are very clear in all your presentations. I have a CH circuit breaker box sub panel from about 1980. Updating kitchen to gfci and afci protection using a combination breaker at the box. After installing new combo breaker it pops as soon as I turn on electric. I unplugged everything from all the receptacles, then it stayed on long enough to try to plug something in...but just touching the plug prongs into the receptacle tripped the breaker. I tried with 2 different objects in case it might be them. I tried with different breakers on different circuit...same problem. So I put the old ones back in and all works fine as it did before. They are 15 amp receptacles with 3 holes. Do you have any ideas of what to check next? Thanks again.
Basically, one would need to trace the circuit from the panel to the first junction box or first outlet/switch, then confirm that first segment is good to that point with nothing connected to it beyond that point, Then connect the next segment and test that. Sooner or later, one is going to find a bad connection, a loose wirenut, an arcing wire, a bad outlet or switch, etc., etc.
They also make GFCI outlets with an audible alarm, so you know it's tripped and can reset it. Since 2015, all GFCI outlets are required to have "automatic self test", so you don't need to poke them every month.
“The most interesting part of this code change is that it requires that all receptacle outlets being installed or replaced, must now meet the modern AFCI requirements. This means, even if you own a 100-year old home and you are replacing or adding a receptacle or a circuit to one of these locations, the new wiring must meet modern AFCI requirements. This is the latest effort to keep us safe and could add some cost and complications to your wiring update projects. Below shows the code reference from the 2017 NEC.” getscribeware.com/afci-protection-and-alterations-to-your-residential-electric-system/
Thankyou. That was great and one of the best explanation. On this subject. And electric is very important to understand before doing any electric work. I have seen alot of dangerous jobs done by people that have no business doing any electrical projects Thks again
Michigan needs all the FAULT protection possible. Especially with: Gretchen Whitmer Larry Nassar Jim Harbaugh Robert Anderson Bo Schembechler Detroit And Michigan Football 🤦♂️
lol not completely wrong. but not many go to detroit these days unless that's the place they belong. and you have to be specific on college or nfl for football.
The main difference is plastic material used to resist UV and stainless steel components to resist corrosion. Apart from that there would be no benefit whatsoever.
I'm dying to find out, does ELEGRP 30W 6.0 Amp 3-Port USB Wall Outlet works exactly like an afci? If you go into the specs it claims that it protects you from short circuits and all these other things.. how does it work if it doesn't have a switch?
Interesting, there are some differences between the regulations here and over in the US. Here "all circuits which contain outlets that are not dedicated and are accessible to electrical laypersons must be protected by RCD (residual current device, what you call a GFCI) with a tripping current of 30mA or less. In newly installed "rooms which contain a bathtub and/or shower" the installation of a RCD/GFCI with a maximum tripping current of 30mA is mandatory already since 1984. But this only applies to bathrooms which were installed after 1984, meaning there are still old installations out there with no RCD protection because there is no general obligation to retrofit them. The VDE now recommends in bathrooms the installation of RCDs with a tripping current of 10mA, because the 30mA threshold is for healthy adults, but for children even that can become dangerous. They started recommending it after a few years ago a father bathed his two children, he was distracted for a few moments by a ringing phone. When he came back they layed lifeless in the tub. He called an ambulance but they couldn't help them. During the time he made a phone call they grabbed a mains powered electric shaver and it fell into the tub. The 30mA RCD didn't trip. And sometimes devices which are normally not dangerous can become dangerous. In February in Austria an 11 year old girl died in the bathtub because she used a phone in the tub, which was connected with a cheap chinese charger to the mains. A member of the family kicked in the locked door and tried to reanimate her until the emergency doctor arrived. But they were not successful. She had massive burning marks on her body. And that's not the only dangerous situation caused by dangerous cheap chinese chargers. That's the reason you should install RCD/GFCI protection, at least in your bathroom because that's the space were you are the most vulnerable in the whole house! You're naked in there and in contact with water, the room is damp if you use it. If electricity comes in that creates situations which are extremely dangerous!! AFCIs, here we call them AFDD (arc fault detection device), are only in a few spots mandatory. Here in Germany only in sleeping rooms of nursery schools, or if your house was built with combustable materials like wood. Which most houses here are not, mostly brick layed or armored concrete. But they are recommended. And the other difference is, in the US you mostly install outlets with the protective devices integrated. In Europe you mostly install the protective devices into the panel, now these days integrated into the circuit breakers. There are also outlets available with integrated protection, but they are very expensive. For comparison, a normal Schuko outlet is in the range of 5 to 6 Euros (6 to 7 USD), with RCD protection the same manufacturer wants 130 Euros (150 USD). 16A RCBO 30mA (circuit breaker with integrated GF protection) is round about 30 Euros (35 USD), RCD (without the circuit breaker functionality) with 10mA is round about 50 Euros (59 USD). On what type of current do they trip? There are different types available: -Type AC, will only trip on AC fault currents. This type is banned for new installations in Germany since 1984 but in other european countries quite common until today. -Type A, will trip on AC faults and in addition on pulsating DC which can be caused by faulty switch-mode power supplies. Standard type here in Germany. -Type B, is like A but will trip on smoothed DC faults in addition. -A relative new type is the type A+EV for electric vehicle chargers. Normally you require type B there, but they are very expensive. So this is the best compromise. The other way would be to install a type A RCD and use a wall charger with an integrated DC protection. And for places were you don't have RCD protection installed there are portable RCDs available (PRCD). Mostly in the form of a plug of integrated into the wire like a cord switch: www.amazon.de/Brennenstuhl-1290670-Personenschutz-Stecker-BDI-S-IP55/dp/B01N232GL2/ref=sr_1_11?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=rcbo+10ma&qid=1596374515&sr=8-11 www.amazon.de/dp/B01N9NP1CV/ref=emc_b_5_t
I heard that story about the 11 yr old from electroboom, I think all circuits should be gfci protected and as many afci protected as possible, it's too bad large motors neusence trip them tho, if we wire our circuits like Chicago usa, only in pipe, we wouldn't need to worry about that.
@@mr.3phase228 In the early 1990s that was the case here in Germany for new installations. They installed one big three-phase GF device to protect the whole house like this one: www.amazon.de/ABB-FI-Schutzschalter-63A-F204A-63-03/dp/B001L5SLWW/ref=sr_1_7?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=rcd+30ma+63a&qid=1596381911&sr=8-7 These don't have an overload or short-circuit protection (for line against neutral faults). But this is no longer state-of-the-art, the leakage currents will add up and trip it, and then the whole house is without electric energy. Now we do several groups of circuits on one GFCI, or the best way: Every circuit got its own or using RCBOs. And this works except for three-phase circuits, because RCBOs are not available as three-phase. There are only pure GF devices available, so you're required to install an additional circuit breaker for short-circuit and overload protection. In modern homes the circuit for the kitchen cooker is always three-phase here, fused with 3x16A (~11 kW) in mnost cases but designed that you can fuse it up to 3x20A (~14 kW).
I also heard the tragic story about the 11 yr old girl from electroboom. I can't imagine the pain of the parents. The story scared me so much that I am now very strict about having gfci protection in any bathroom that children might use, so at least this tragic story has had a benefit to others around the world.
@@donaldlee6760 Or use other methods. For example in my parents bathroom there's no GFCI protection. But it's impossible to do that what the girl did because the outlet is too far away. The lights are low voltage halogen spots, so from there you can't become electrocuted too. Best method is to use the mind, don't rely only on technical safety measures. My parents told me that electricity and water are not a good combination because back then we hadn't such measures like GFCI. And don't buy cheap chinese crap chargers. They don't have a proper galvanic isolation between the mains voltage and the 5V low voltage part. And especially in damp areas that could end deadly! The investigation will show what happened. They will investigate if the installation in the bathroom met the requirements of the regulations which were in state when it was installed. They'll check the charger, they'll check if someone messed with the electrical installation.
This whole thing is still very confusing, partly due to the use of the terms "outlet" and "receptacle" used interchangeably, when we know they are not. (Notice the title of this video.) Where it is particularly hard for me to figure out what I need is for "outlets" such as a gas furnace in a basement. The best I have found is in the linked PDF file from Eaton giving the 2020 code changes. They include a table on page 5 which lists the NEC code years on the top, and the areas in each row. Unfortunately, they don't list the devices that are most confusing, including the gas furnace, gas kitchen range, gas hot water heater, and disposal. I think I am supposed to know that the "basement" area includes the furnace and the sump pump. The kitchen area includes the gas range and the disposal. But the table does call out the dishwasher, but not the disposal. www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/residential/electrical-safety/electrical-safety-national-electrical-code-2020-br1610048en.pdf
The proper term would be "Receptacle Outlet" so you might understand the use of shorthand versions. Also, don't rely on PDF cliff notes, just go directly to the code book. Finally, you can't think solely of terms of appliances but more on location. In addition the AHJ will have the final say anyway so always use them as a great resource.
You can add a GFCI with no receptacles to the junction box before the two ends split. Alternatively you can add a GFCI breaker to that entire branch. AFCI not the same protection as GFCI.
Do you have this video in plain English? I'm looking for the smallest size wise GFI for the kitchen. Reason: my tile person made the opening toooo durn small so that a regular GFI size will not fit inside the box unless i cut the tile around it....gerrrrrr. Perhaps I can gerry-rig (third world engineering) to make it fit. Any suggestions?
@@InverseCh Thank you. I will definitely look into that for sure. I did put in a regular outlet, it's located 9 inches above counter top so I think safe, and will seek "adult supervision" (electrician) to change out to a GFCI/AFCI combo breaker. Great replies.
@Ouzelfalls Thank you for your reply. I did get a smaller AFCI/GFCI at Home Depot to work for me but had to really push wires into place. So far so good. .
I have a dining room with a bar stool area no sink from the kitchen just a high counter top. My outlets are to the side in the dining room on a dedicated afci 20 amp circuit with 12/2. Are those dining room outlets required to also be gfci?
Any reason to not just use afci/gfci combo outlets on every circuit? Also are these combo outlets able to detect trip conditions for both parallel and series arcs as well as ground faults?
So the AFCI receptacle would only cover the connected plugged in the device? Over in the UK we are just currently changing our regulations to introduce AFCI breakers back in the consumer units. We are so so behind on additional protection devices, you guys in the USA have them in socket out lets 🤯 and back at the circuit breakers already that’s great.👌🏻. In the UK it’s about customers wanting cheap prices not quality about 90% of the time. So it’s very hard to implement and introduce new tech. If you ever want a UK spark with 15 years of experience to train up to the US code give me a message hahah Love the vids Bill
Just wish something can be done about the price for the AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers. Still hovering at around $50 each, for a home like mine with 17 total branch breakers (15 single pole + 1 tandem breaker). Would be over $800 to replace them all with AFCI/GFCI types. Sheesh ..., that's a nonstarter for my finances right now ... 👎
What do you recommend doing in an old house built in the 50's, 2 wire setup with no ground, I was going to just out everything on GFCI but in research I learned that's not a great idea when it comes to the refrigerator and deep freezer.
@Lucky Joestar What I'm doing is to run new 12-2 and isolate those items such as fridge, furnace, washer and dryer and sump. They would not be GFCI. (in my case). My entire house is all 2 prong non-grounded, and it's going to take some time to unwind it all. The 4 fuse panel was mounted inside a kitchen cupboard.
@@SparkyChannel Breaker and outlet versions each have their place and their own pros and cons. Breaker pros: 1-allows for greater design flexibility at the outlets, such as non-decora style or unusual colors. 2-protects the wires leading to the first outlet in addition to the outlets and downstream wiring. 3-centralized location, which by code should remain clear at all times (the reality is customers often cover/obstruct access). Breaker cons: 1-cost. 2-pigtails (especially in older panels) 3-may not be available for the specific panel, particularly in retrofit/repair/remodel situations Outlet pros: 1-cost, 2-can fit most boxes, 3-may be only viable method with older non-grounded installations Outlet cons: 1-generally limited to decora style (other styles have similar cost to the breakers), 2-may not met accessibility requirements, particularly behind furniture or appliances, 3-limited colors readily available, 4-other outlet features not available, such as built-in usb chargers or smart-home automation, such as z-wave, zigbee, etc.
@@SparkyChannel As a continuation, generally a mix of the two types may be appropriate. Bathroom: outlet Dining room: outlet Separate refrigerator: breaker dishwasher/disposal: breaker kitchen counter: outlet Garage: breaker (often too much junk) Basement: either, prefer breaker Laundry: breaker Detached building: breaker Outside recepticles: outlet
Great Video!!!, if you have the time could you please do a video showing AFCI/Combination AFCI breakers/outlets in action, we all seen/read the stories about the arc and fire hazards but very few/none video actually showing the capabilities of this AFCI devices, i think it will be an interesting video. thanks.
I was thinking that also. I've never seen an appliance with a 20 amp 120 volt plug with the one blade sideways. I have a large toaster oven that is rated 1800 watts, or 15 amps, and still has a standard 15 amp plug. I still ran 20 amp GFCI receptacles in my kitchen since the contacts inside are heavier, which is better if lets say you have two things plugged in to one receptacle together drawing lets say, 16-20 amps.
I don't think I've seen an AFCI breaker that wasn't also GFCI. Their light blinks when you reset them, and the number of blinks corresponds to the trip reason, and every one I've seen had a code for ground fault detected.
@@dtemp132 I know that is not correct because I put in a "combination Afci breaker" for my garage. The gfci tester does not trip the breaker. I put gfci in the receptacles so I have both. The Combo AFCI is not to be confused with Dual.
Yes you are correct it will function like a breaker in the sense that if you install the afci or GFCI receptacle as the first receptacle in the series it will protect all receptacles on that circuit downstream so yes you are correct
I have a GFCI outlet in the kitchen near my oven where I use my coffee maker. It trips every time I use the coffee maker. Should I go to the breaker and change the switch to a higher voltage? If not, what other options do I have?
NO! Switching from a 15A to 20A breaker will NOT solve your problem. That's the kind of dumb stuff people used to do with their fuses--putting pennies and washers in to bypass the fuse because they were too lazy to figure out what was wrong or too cheap to hire someone or fix it. If your GFCI outlet/receptacle is tripping, it is because something is shorting out OR the outlet has gone bad. Plug your coffee maker into a different GFCI outlet to see if it trips there too. If it trips there, you know your coffee maker has an issue. If it doesn't trip on the new outlet, it could be the outlet by your stove has gone bad and needs replacement. IF your coffee maker is tripping the BREAKER in your electrical panel, you may have a circuit that shares several outlets with a lot of high-draw devices, toaster, coffee maker, blender, hair dryer...etc. and when you turn them all on during your morning routine, you are overloading your circuit and the breaker is tripping to save your ass. Turn off that breaker and identify which outlets are controlled by that breaker. Balance your loads by using different circuits for your high draw devices. If any of this is Greek to you, get a competent handy man or electrician to check things.
Bill, great video! I think electrical safety is very important and under-rated. DISCLAIMER: *I am just a DIY homeowner* Is it true or am I mistaken that you only need one of these special receptacles as the first one in the circuit from the panel to get the protection benefit on the entire circuit? I think you've done a video or two on locating the first receptacle in a circuit. Is there any benefit to installing these specialized receptacles after the first one on the circuit? I think (again, just a DIYer) that the wiring type (series/daisy-chained vs. parallel) comes into play here. You mentioned that AFCI/GFCI receptacles are needed in kitchen areas. Does that include the one for the refrigerator/freezer? Couldn't that be an issue? If so, do you have any recommendations to mitigate the risk (of coming home to a warm refrigerator and defrosted freezer)? Alarm, of course, but that might not help after a day at work or a weekend away. Do they sell refrigerators that have a backup power plug?
GFCI protection is required in wet areas (kitchen, bathroom, garage, outside, laundry room). Only the first outlet on the circuit needs to be a GFCI. The GFCI receptacle is marked with line (incoming power) and load (outgoing power). Any other outlets needing GFCI protection they must be connected to the load side of the GFCI. One GFCI protects all outlets connected to it, no other outlet needs to be a GFCI receptacle except for the first one. Appliances such as a refrigerator or dishwasher do not require GFCI protection.
You need to have the circuit run through the gfci receptacle (in line, out load), but downstream of that, you can wire the normal receptacles however you want; wire through them or pigtail off a splice. Makes no difference.
It's important that the receptacles are daisy chained, one line in and the other out to the next receptacle, for a single GFCI to protect downstream outlets. In my case my some of my kitchen outlets are fed out radially from junction boxes in the attic, so I had to use GFCI's at each receptacle location.
Nice video Bill.Do you find full aluminum wiring in lots of old houses?Was 10 and 12 gauge aluminum wiring also used in commercial/industrial electrical wiring?
Wow, the Eaton receptacle is way bigger. The only brand that I ever buy is Leviton because they make great products and are my favourite brand for switches and receptacles. My first time doing a switch and receptacle upgrade, I used Pass and Seymour and I was not impressed at all especially with the eggshell finish.
Sparky Channel definitely especially in older houses from the 50s, 60s and 70s where the gang boxes in the walls are much smaller than the modern ones! Leviton’s size is the best!
Paul Wheeless for receptacles and switches Leviton is my favourite make; for dimers, Lutron is my favourite make. Eaton definitely does make good service panels and breakers though I totally agree and Eaton is my second favourite for receptacles and switches. Home Depot only sells Leviton and Home Hardware only sells Eaton. I find the customer service is much better in Home Hardware than Home Depot but the receptacle and switch selection is better in Home Depot. As mentioned, the one brand I am not to keen on is Pass and Seymour because I find it a poor quality product and I find the eggshell finish institutional! They’re sold at Lowes!
A combo refers to a AFCI which has series and parallel arc fault protection. Series is an a break in the hot wire causing arcing. Parallel is an arcing between the neutral and hot wire. Dual Function has both AFCI and GFCI protection. The Leviton brand DF also has series and parallel arc fault protection.
If I'm going to bother bringing any of my old electrical up to code, then I'm just going with afci/GFCI breakers and standard outlets. The cost difference isn't that much and if it technically safer then great. Honestly this should just be the default, we're just used to living with stupid outdated technology.
2020 NEC mandates AFCI protection in virtually every circuit in the house? Man, this code is really getting out of hand - someone needs to reign those idiots in and tell them that we dont need Cadillac protection everywhere. I've rarely ever seen an AFCI breaker or outlet ever installed in the real world.
@@Eric-ff4mz I live in Missouri and previously in Iowa. Most houses are 30-60 years old so probably were built before this was code, but no one ever upgrades them and you never hear of any serious incidents that could have been prevented by AFCI, so clearly they aren't really needed in the new houses either. Code writers trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
Eaton outlets just from my own laymans perspective look and feel much superior when compared to Leviton. Same when I compared Square D breakers to GE. Needless to say I replaced my panel with Square D and all my outlets and switches are Eaton commercial grade.
Why are electricians called sparkies? They spend 90% of their time with nose in a code book. They should be called "amateur lawyers who also sometimes wire shit"
Only available in GFCI. WR receptacles only provide UV and corrosion "resistant" materials. This WR receptacles still need to be placed with in use outdoor covers per manufacture instructions. These do not have an IP rating.
coolgamer 6554 oh. That’s for equipment that requires a 20A circuit. The neutral prong on a 20A plug is horizontal. So 20A rated receptacles accept either 15A rated plugs with vertical neutral prongs or 20A rated plugs with horizontal neutral plugs. This prevents a 20A plug from being plugged into a 15A only receptacle. Take a look at the NEMA plug chart for the different orientations for various voltages, amperages, and phases. Will blow your mind.
I had that problem (but on a 15 amp circuit). To solve it, I tried disconnecting the outlet, and cleaning up and reinstalling the wires. Well, that didn't help. The solution for me was to buy a higher quality outlet. I bought a couple of Eaton's and that solved my problem. Maybe it'll help you.
@@jtwu8931 A 20 Amp AFCI breaker, installed in the breaker panel, that supplies a GFCI receptacle. Better protection because this also provides AFCI protection for the feed from the panel to the receptacle. But only do this if the conductor from the panel to the receptacle is #12 AWG.
@@fredsalter1915 you say Eaton is higher quality. Is that because it costs more or its generally recognized as being high quality? Is Leviton high quality?
The first two were more vendor specific comparisons between two equivalent devices. The next two were just amperage differentiated WR GFCIs, and the last two were amperage differentiated combination AFCI/GFCI outlets. What would've been good to include would be an older non-TR variety and reference the 406.12 language changes regarding TR recepticles.
Man I'm happy to live in Germany. All those sockets, plugs and all those differential current detector types are insane. Working for US companies is totally nuts with all those regulations....
@@SparkyChannel oh, really.... I have to have a new panel installed anyways in the 1979 Mobil home I'm buying anyways cuz to prior dummy owner ran 2 different set of devices to the Same 15 Amp Breaker Circuit..
@@kingturgan1 ? From Leviton website for GFNT1-W: 15 Amp, 125 Volt Receptacle/Outlet, _20 Amp Feed-Through_ A 15A GFCI outlet still protects up to a 20A circuit.
@@kingturgan1 I'm not sure how to phrase this other than, no, you are wrong. A 15A receptacle is able to be used on a 20A circuit. If not, almost every house built would be violating code. What you can't do is put a single plug 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit. Outside of that fact, a 15A GFNT1-W is a 20A capable device, with 20A internals. The one I have opened up even had 20A plug parts, but the faceplate did not have the 20A flat blade cut-out. Apparently, Leviton charges extra for that missing plastic for 20A plugs. If you still believe you are correct, no 15A outlet receptacles can be used on any 20A circuits, please inform us all where exactly this is stated within NEC (any year since 1996).
The GFCI breakers start at $40 and go up. GFCI receptacles are $20 and you could put many additional normal receptacles on the LOAD terminals. Not sure how doing it at the panel saves money.
@@dtemp132 reasons for putting in a AFCI/GFCI breaker: the gfci/afci receptacle won't fit in the first box, the first box is not accessible (behind furniture), the first outlet is a light and multiple recepticles are connected to it, the protected circuit covers multiple rooms making it hard to find the tripped recepticle, you can put AFCI in the breaker and gfci in just the recepticle(s) that need it, a buried uf-b cable is supposed to be gfci (or afci?) Protected before it goes underground, the breaker gives diagnostic information about the type of fault. Disclaimer: I'm a DIY not licensed. I am asking here more than telling.
Excellent reasons Mark! Here's one on the side of the AFCI/GFCI receptacles: On some old panels from the 50's and 60's there are no replacement AFCI/GFCI breakers available to buy.
@@SparkyChannel That's a good point. My panel is Murray, which was bought by Siemens. I think Siemens still puts the Murray name on some of the same breakers as the Siemens name for the reason of being able to use them as a listed breaker for a Murray panel. But I might not always have that option.
Mark Lawry buried UF cable doesn’t need gfci or afci protection. However, giving it GFCI protection allows you to, in certain situations, bury it at a shallower depth than you’d normally have to.
Is that a code restriction? I think it'd be ideal for a 20A circuit where the 20A GFCI is the first outlet in the string and the rest of the string is wired downstream of that outlet's GFCI function. E.g. the outlets in a kitchen.
Great video. Love your channel. Learned a lot from your videos. Thanks.
Thanks David, have a great day! 👍🏻
@@SparkyChannel Hello I have a sauna that use 120v @18amp when I replace my receptacle with t slot 20a 125v gfci should 15a breaker be replaced with a 20a?.
i know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow forgot my password. I love any help you can offer me.
@Joe Valentin Instablaster :)
@Gregory Abraham Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Some one once commented you are the Scotty Kilmer of Electricans. I must say you are. Great videos. Much appreciated.
Youre making the world safer. There will always be diy people. Helping them keep it safe. Plus i love learning
Good review. Leviton fan myself. I went with 20A AFCI/GFCI for my new laundry room build... one on the dedicated wash/dryer machine circuit and another for the general receptacles. For my new workshop, I went with 20A GFCI only for the 2 circuits. I was told the AFCI will constantly trip with the use of power tools (table saw, drill press, router, etc. motors).
Thank you...you have an awesome way to teach ... i will be watching all your videos so when is time to hire a licensed electrician i will be able to choose an honest one ...thanks to all the people on you tube that shared videos like yours so awesome to talk to the home hardware in town over the phone due to covid and I totally understood how to choose my receptacles online
Nice vid, showing ppl the different outlet receptacles & where you would use such a thing👍🏻
Have a good one & be well✌🏼
That was the goal anyway. Thanks, have a great day! 👍🏻
Thanks for showing the different devices. Very helpful. I am still trying to decide what is best for my old house to make it safer.
I understand. Thanks Mark!
One thing that would help is attaching a multimeter to there, and checking the idle current draw - it varies a lot by brand.
Thank you for creating these excellent videos. I have watched most of them. In this video some of the GFCI’s you show have a “self-grounding “ tab on the bottom. If you install one of these GFCI’s into a metal box that is fed with BX then the GFCI is “self-grounded” and there is no need to use the “No Equipment Ground” label. The downstream receptacles will also be grounded since the GFCI has a “legal” ground connection by use of the self grounding tab. My home was built in 1932 and all the boxes are metal and fed with armored cable (BX). The outer jacket of the BX cable serves as the equipment grounding conductor (similar to conduit) and connecting a self grounding GFCI receptacle will allow downstream (load) receptacles to be grounded.
Is my reasoning correct?
Yes, absolutely! In your case they did quality wiring back in 1932. You should test all receptacles though to make sure the ground is still good and change out any wiring damaged due to age.
@@SparkyChannel I tested a 3 prong outlet by the washtubs in my 1918 built home, The plug in tester said it was "correct" (so I think it is grounded).
I do not see a copper or green ground wire though. So, maybe my outlet is grounded through the metal box also? I need to put in a GFCI to pass inspection. Can you show the GFCI with the so called :self grounding tab" that Paul G. mentioned?
I also have a ungrounded kitchen outlet. Will it pass inspection if I install the GFCI, and put the blue label on it that says "NO EQUIPMENT GROUND" ?
When I was in carpenters school 1996 in Chicago they had 5 types of GFCI’s powered and mounted on a board , using a 5 gal bucket of water and a locked on drywall screw gun they submerged it by holding the cord into the water , the gun continued running under water on 4 of the 5 , only one tripped and shut off the power to the drill . I’d like to see you try that test ?
That is correct, because there was no loss in 5ma. The water acted like a conductor. The GFCI or AFCI does not know the difference between a water conductor or copper conductor. If that same bucket was made of metal and the bucket was grounded, then the GFCI would detect a voltage difference and interrupt the flow of current.
@@mugen-mundo So what is the purpose of a GFCI if it doesn’t detect say a blow dryer that falls in the tub ?
@@tucoblondy1643 If the drain was metal or if someone touched the water that was partially grounded it would trip. But it's purpose is to Detect the loss of 5 milliamps or more leaving the circuit. So say you have a faulty cord in the rain and the cord dissipates power to the ground. It would then trip. Hence ground fault circuit interrupter. It's mostly detects faulty equipment that had a ground fault. Unfortunately it does not detect all scenarios. dangerous to electrocution.
Thank you. Very informative.
I have an older home with simple breakers. My garage never had GFCI outlets. I'll look into installing those as soon as I can.
I also need to put in a GFCI outlet for the plug in hybrid recently purchased. Would you recommend this line be independent of any other lines or would it be OK to run on a line of outlets.
I'm not seeing anything in the literature on this. It's a low level charging. I'll be keeping the plug in the garage and likely charging to the driveway when it's not raining.
It should be on it's own circuit. Check to see if your EV charger is already protected by GFCI. Congratulations on the hybrid!
Quick question sparkies;
Leviton or Eaton? Which do you prefer?
I prefer Eaton due to the reset switch size and clear indicator when it's tripped.
I have had to reset Leviton GFCI's with flat blade screw drivers with more force than should be used. Now there are Leviton Panels being stocked at every home depot. Good luck finding Eaton Ch panels
I've had to replace Leviton's. Some of them would trip for no good reason (that I could tell). Went with Eaton's and have had no further issues.
I like the look of the all white Leviton GFCI receptacles. Also, Leviton patent the Decora style devices as well as the bonnet on regular light bulbs.
Hey, great job! The use of the CODE BOOK seemed a bit tedious at first, but I found it to be most informative.
Hey Bill Got a Question Sir if you don't find an Outlet with 4 Wires present you find only 2 wires with Ground in a say a Bedroom can you put more than one AF/GI outlet in the Bedroom i have 2 outlets I'd like to update and I'd like to use the AF/GI I found a Levinton AF/GI at Home Depot it was 15Amp 120 they only sell them in white at the Store...
Could you explain a little more one GFCI/AFCI protection in particular on the breaker panel side of the system and related codes (GFCI breakers vs. GFCI receptacles and if one method is used is the other still required?) Is there a way to provide arc fault protection for a circuit at the panel if the panel does not have a plug on neutral (e.g. in the older Square D QO panel boxes)....I got a big box of Leviton 46596 panel mount GFCIs from a retiring electrician but just not familiar with these.....where/when would I use a panel mount GFCI?
GFCI breakers can be used to replace same brand non-GFCI breakers. Plug on Neutral is just a more convenient way for breakers, since it automatically connects to Neutral on PoN panels (no extra white wire needed).
IMHO, AFCI only really works from the breaker, since it protects the entire circuit from arcs, where an outlet might not see the pattern.
My house has a lot of 20amp gfci on 15amp breakers maybe to make it look nicer when selling my house. Will my house burn down if I don't replace them?
No just change them to 15 amp gfci’s. Not hard just make sure to turn off your breaker that supplies power to the receptacles and test the wires for power to make sure.
If the wiring in that circuit is 12 gauge, you should be fine as long as you don’t plug in anything that will draw more than 15 amps.
You should be fine your breaker will probably trip before anything else would happen. And if it does just know that you're running too heavy of a load on that circuit. Just don't do things like run multiple space heaters on the same circuit or from the same receptacle. Stuff like that. The reality of the situation is that you can probably change out of the receptacles.
Thanks you are very clear in all your presentations. I have a CH circuit breaker box sub panel from about 1980. Updating kitchen to gfci and afci protection using a combination breaker at the box. After installing new combo breaker it pops as soon as I turn on electric. I unplugged everything from all the receptacles, then it stayed on long enough to try to plug something in...but just touching the plug prongs into the receptacle tripped the breaker. I tried with 2 different objects in case it might be them. I tried with different breakers on different circuit...same problem. So I put the old ones back in and all works fine as it did before. They are 15 amp receptacles with 3 holes. Do you have any ideas of what to check next? Thanks again.
Basically, one would need to trace the circuit from the panel to the first junction box or first outlet/switch, then confirm that first segment is good to that point with nothing connected to it beyond that point, Then connect the next segment and test that. Sooner or later, one is going to find a bad connection, a loose wirenut, an arcing wire, a bad outlet or switch, etc., etc.
Is it sufficient to use an AFCI/GFCI outlet in my kitchen if I cannot fit a AFCI/GFCI break in my load center?
Thanks.
See my video: Protect a Circuit With Both AFCI and GFCI with a Receptacle!: th-cam.com/video/QuXA5bfI96U/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
Yes, remember to use one on every circuit, and it always goes on the first outlet of the branch.
They also make GFCI outlets with an audible alarm, so you know it's tripped and can reset it. Since 2015, all GFCI outlets are required to have "automatic self test", so you don't need to poke them every month.
Excellent points, thanks!
Yes there are GFCI outlets with audible alarms when tripped
Why not with modern manufacturing and volume of scale make all breakers Arc Fault and GFI protected? Covers everything and all cases.
Do I need to change my bedroom outlets to afci?
“The most interesting part of this code change is that it requires that all receptacle outlets being installed or replaced, must now meet the modern AFCI requirements. This means, even if you own a 100-year old home and you are replacing or adding a receptacle or a circuit to one of these locations, the new wiring must meet modern AFCI requirements. This is the latest effort to keep us safe and could add some cost and complications to your wiring update projects. Below shows the code reference from the 2017 NEC.”
getscribeware.com/afci-protection-and-alterations-to-your-residential-electric-system/
@@bobt9640 yeah looks like two options on an older home, adding a combo gfci/afci outlet on the upstream or a gfci upstream outlet and afci breaker.
Most simple thing to do is buy a dual function (afci/gfci) breaker
No.
No. If you install a new receptacles that uses less then 6' of wire you do not need to provide AFCI.
Thankyou. That was great and one of the best explanation. On this subject. And electric is very important to understand before doing any electric work. I have seen alot of dangerous jobs done by people that have no business doing any electrical projects
Thks again
my state michigan doesnt seem to require afci at all. but do require GFCI
Michigan needs all the FAULT protection possible. Especially with:
Gretchen Whitmer
Larry Nassar
Jim Harbaugh
Robert Anderson
Bo Schembechler
Detroit
And Michigan Football 🤦♂️
lol not completely wrong. but not many go to detroit these days unless that's the place they belong. and you have to be specific on college or nfl for football.
@@ultimaheart4304 - Both the Wolverines and the Lions are terrible.
The Spartans aren't far behind either.
@@BA-gn3qb i didnt see you mention green bay.
@@ultimaheart4304 - Did Green Bay, Wisconsin become part of Michigan and no one knows about it?
Is there benefit to use WR outlets in bathrooms? Or is that pointless.
The main difference is plastic material used to resist UV and stainless steel components to resist corrosion. Apart from that there would be no benefit whatsoever.
I'm dying to find out, does ELEGRP 30W 6.0 Amp 3-Port USB Wall Outlet works exactly like an afci? If you go into the specs it claims that it protects you from short circuits and all these other things.. how does it work if it doesn't have a switch?
Interesting, there are some differences between the regulations here and over in the US. Here "all circuits which contain outlets that are not dedicated and are accessible to electrical laypersons must be protected by RCD (residual current device, what you call a GFCI) with a tripping current of 30mA or less.
In newly installed "rooms which contain a bathtub and/or shower" the installation of a RCD/GFCI with a maximum tripping current of 30mA is mandatory already since 1984. But this only applies to bathrooms which were installed after 1984, meaning there are still old installations out there with no RCD protection because there is no general obligation to retrofit them.
The VDE now recommends in bathrooms the installation of RCDs with a tripping current of 10mA, because the 30mA threshold is for healthy adults, but for children even that can become dangerous. They started recommending it after a few years ago a father bathed his two children, he was distracted for a few moments by a ringing phone. When he came back they layed lifeless in the tub. He called an ambulance but they couldn't help them. During the time he made a phone call they grabbed a mains powered electric shaver and it fell into the tub. The 30mA RCD didn't trip.
And sometimes devices which are normally not dangerous can become dangerous. In February in Austria an 11 year old girl died in the bathtub because she used a phone in the tub, which was connected with a cheap chinese charger to the mains. A member of the family kicked in the locked door and tried to reanimate her until the emergency doctor arrived. But they were not successful. She had massive burning marks on her body. And that's not the only dangerous situation caused by dangerous cheap chinese chargers.
That's the reason you should install RCD/GFCI protection, at least in your bathroom because that's the space were you are the most vulnerable in the whole house! You're naked in there and in contact with water, the room is damp if you use it. If electricity comes in that creates situations which are extremely dangerous!!
AFCIs, here we call them AFDD (arc fault detection device), are only in a few spots mandatory. Here in Germany only in sleeping rooms of nursery schools, or if your house was built with combustable materials like wood. Which most houses here are not, mostly brick layed or armored concrete. But they are recommended.
And the other difference is, in the US you mostly install outlets with the protective devices integrated. In Europe you mostly install the protective devices into the panel, now these days integrated into the circuit breakers. There are also outlets available with integrated protection, but they are very expensive. For comparison, a normal Schuko outlet is in the range of 5 to 6 Euros (6 to 7 USD), with RCD protection the same manufacturer wants 130 Euros (150 USD). 16A RCBO 30mA (circuit breaker with integrated GF protection) is round about 30 Euros (35 USD), RCD (without the circuit breaker functionality) with 10mA is round about 50 Euros (59 USD).
On what type of current do they trip? There are different types available:
-Type AC, will only trip on AC fault currents. This type is banned for new installations in Germany since 1984 but in other european countries quite common until today.
-Type A, will trip on AC faults and in addition on pulsating DC which can be caused by faulty switch-mode power supplies. Standard type here in Germany.
-Type B, is like A but will trip on smoothed DC faults in addition.
-A relative new type is the type A+EV for electric vehicle chargers. Normally you require type B there, but they are very expensive. So this is the best compromise. The other way would be to install a type A RCD and use a wall charger with an integrated DC protection.
And for places were you don't have RCD protection installed there are portable RCDs available (PRCD). Mostly in the form of a plug of integrated into the wire like a cord switch:
www.amazon.de/Brennenstuhl-1290670-Personenschutz-Stecker-BDI-S-IP55/dp/B01N232GL2/ref=sr_1_11?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=rcbo+10ma&qid=1596374515&sr=8-11
www.amazon.de/dp/B01N9NP1CV/ref=emc_b_5_t
I heard that story about the 11 yr old from electroboom, I think all circuits should be gfci protected and as many afci protected as possible, it's too bad large motors neusence trip them tho, if we wire our circuits like Chicago usa, only in pipe, we wouldn't need to worry about that.
@@mr.3phase228 In the early 1990s that was the case here in Germany for new installations. They installed one big three-phase GF device to protect the whole house like this one:
www.amazon.de/ABB-FI-Schutzschalter-63A-F204A-63-03/dp/B001L5SLWW/ref=sr_1_7?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=rcd+30ma+63a&qid=1596381911&sr=8-7
These don't have an overload or short-circuit protection (for line against neutral faults).
But this is no longer state-of-the-art, the leakage currents will add up and trip it, and then the whole house is without electric energy. Now we do several groups of circuits on one GFCI, or the best way: Every circuit got its own or using RCBOs. And this works except for three-phase circuits, because RCBOs are not available as three-phase. There are only pure GF devices available, so you're required to install an additional circuit breaker for short-circuit and overload protection. In modern homes the circuit for the kitchen cooker is always three-phase here, fused with 3x16A (~11 kW) in mnost cases but designed that you can fuse it up to 3x20A (~14 kW).
Very interesting, thanks Marcel!
I also heard the tragic story about the 11 yr old girl from electroboom. I can't imagine the pain of the parents. The story scared me so much that I am now very strict about having gfci protection in any bathroom that children might use, so at least this tragic story has had a benefit to others around the world.
@@donaldlee6760 Or use other methods. For example in my parents bathroom there's no GFCI protection. But it's impossible to do that what the girl did because the outlet is too far away. The lights are low voltage halogen spots, so from there you can't become electrocuted too.
Best method is to use the mind, don't rely only on technical safety measures. My parents told me that electricity and water are not a good combination because back then we hadn't such measures like GFCI.
And don't buy cheap chinese crap chargers. They don't have a proper galvanic isolation between the mains voltage and the 5V low voltage part. And especially in damp areas that could end deadly!
The investigation will show what happened. They will investigate if the installation in the bathroom met the requirements of the regulations which were in state when it was installed. They'll check the charger, they'll check if someone messed with the electrical installation.
This whole thing is still very confusing, partly due to the use of the terms "outlet" and "receptacle" used interchangeably, when we know they are not. (Notice the title of this video.) Where it is particularly hard for me to figure out what I need is for "outlets" such as a gas furnace in a basement. The best I have found is in the linked PDF file from Eaton giving the 2020 code changes. They include a table on page 5 which lists the NEC code years on the top, and the areas in each row. Unfortunately, they don't list the devices that are most confusing, including the gas furnace, gas kitchen range, gas hot water heater, and disposal. I think I am supposed to know that the "basement" area includes the furnace and the sump pump. The kitchen area includes the gas range and the disposal. But the table does call out the dishwasher, but not the disposal.
www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/residential/electrical-safety/electrical-safety-national-electrical-code-2020-br1610048en.pdf
The proper term would be "Receptacle Outlet" so you might understand the use of shorthand versions. Also, don't rely on PDF cliff notes, just go directly to the code book. Finally, you can't think solely of terms of appliances but more on location. In addition the AHJ will have the final say anyway so always use them as a great resource.
Why are they selling gfci if AFCI is all purpose? how do i wire 2 gfci in parallel that isnt at a dead end of the circuit?
You can add a GFCI with no receptacles to the junction box before the two ends split. Alternatively you can add a GFCI breaker to that entire branch. AFCI not the same protection as GFCI.
Do you have this video in plain English?
I'm looking for the smallest size wise GFI for the kitchen. Reason: my tile person made the opening toooo durn small so that a regular GFI size will not fit inside the box unless i cut the tile around it....gerrrrrr. Perhaps I can gerry-rig (third world engineering) to make it fit. Any suggestions?
replace the circuit breaker with a GFCI/AFCI combo breaker and use a regular outlet.
@@InverseCh Thank you. I will definitely look into that for sure. I did put in a regular outlet, it's located 9 inches above counter top so I think safe, and will seek "adult supervision" (electrician) to change out to a GFCI/AFCI combo breaker. Great replies.
@Ouzelfalls Thank you for your reply. I did get a smaller AFCI/GFCI at Home Depot to work for me but had to really push wires into place. So far so good. .
As always, Mr. Bill(Sparky), great information on your videos.!👍
Can you get a 20A GFCI that is WR/Tamper Proof?
yes
I have a dining room with a bar stool area no sink from the kitchen just a high counter top. My outlets are to the side in the dining room on a dedicated afci 20 amp circuit with 12/2. Are those dining room outlets required to also be gfci?
IMO, no. But please consult the code book. Happy Easter Andy!
I would have thought that new construction and modifications would require just breakers be changed to arc fault. Now all the wiring is monitored.
Any reason to not just use afci/gfci combo outlets on every circuit? Also are these combo outlets able to detect trip conditions for both parallel and series arcs as well as ground faults?
If you go that route you would be better served using a Dual Function Breaker. You'll save a ton of money!
So the AFCI receptacle would only cover the connected plugged in the device?
Over in the UK we are just currently changing our regulations to introduce AFCI breakers back in the consumer units. We are so so behind on additional protection devices, you guys in the USA have them in socket out lets 🤯 and back at the circuit breakers already that’s great.👌🏻.
In the UK it’s about customers wanting cheap prices not quality about 90% of the time. So it’s very hard to implement and introduce new tech.
If you ever want a UK spark with 15 years of experience to train up to the US code give me a message hahah
Love the vids Bill
Thanks so much!
Just wish something can be done about the price for the AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers.
Still hovering at around $50 each, for a home like mine with 17 total branch breakers (15 single pole + 1 tandem breaker). Would be over $800 to replace them all with AFCI/GFCI types.
Sheesh ..., that's a nonstarter for my finances right now ... 👎
What do you recommend doing in an old house built in the 50's, 2 wire setup with no ground, I was going to just out everything on GFCI but in research I learned that's not a great idea when it comes to the refrigerator and deep freezer.
@Lucky Joestar What I'm doing is to run new 12-2 and isolate those items such as fridge, furnace, washer and dryer and sump. They would not be GFCI. (in my case). My entire house is all 2 prong non-grounded, and it's going to take some time to unwind it all. The 4 fuse panel was mounted inside a kitchen cupboard.
It is not a problem due to the GFCI will do a far better job then a receptacle that has a ground wire but no GFCI protection.
Well done video... Easy to follow and good speed of speech.... 90 % of you tube explanations are pathetic... Your A1.
Wow, thanks!
Dual function breakers for the win
They can save a lot of money over dual function breakers. Thanks, have a great day! 👍🏻
@@SparkyChannel Breaker and outlet versions each have their place and their own pros and cons.
Breaker pros: 1-allows for greater design flexibility at the outlets, such as non-decora style or unusual colors. 2-protects the wires leading to the first outlet in addition to the outlets and downstream wiring. 3-centralized location, which by code should remain clear at all times (the reality is customers often cover/obstruct access).
Breaker cons: 1-cost. 2-pigtails (especially in older panels) 3-may not be available for the specific panel, particularly in retrofit/repair/remodel situations
Outlet pros: 1-cost, 2-can fit most boxes, 3-may be only viable method with older non-grounded installations
Outlet cons: 1-generally limited to decora style (other styles have similar cost to the breakers), 2-may not met accessibility requirements, particularly behind furniture or appliances, 3-limited colors readily available, 4-other outlet features not available, such as built-in usb chargers or smart-home automation, such as z-wave, zigbee, etc.
@@SparkyChannel As a continuation, generally a mix of the two types may be appropriate.
Bathroom: outlet
Dining room: outlet
Separate refrigerator: breaker
dishwasher/disposal: breaker
kitchen counter: outlet
Garage: breaker (often too much junk)
Basement: either, prefer breaker
Laundry: breaker
Detached building: breaker
Outside recepticles: outlet
Great Video!!!, if you have the time could you please do a video showing AFCI/Combination AFCI breakers/outlets in action, we all seen/read the stories about the arc and fire hazards but very few/none video actually showing the capabilities of this AFCI devices, i think it will be an interesting video. thanks.
I'll see what I can do, thanks!
this video was so helpful that I just had to subscribe.
Thanks and welcome to Sparky Channel!
Why are 20 Amp outlets made?
I can not find one appliance that takes advantage of the 20 amp outlet.
Many appliances and tools that use motors, such as saws, pumps, etc.
I was thinking that also. I've never seen an appliance with a 20 amp 120 volt plug with the one blade sideways. I have a large toaster oven that is rated 1800 watts, or 15 amps, and still has a standard 15 amp plug. I still ran 20 amp GFCI receptacles in my kitchen since the contacts inside are heavier, which is better if lets say you have two things plugged in to one receptacle together drawing lets say, 16-20 amps.
They're rare but do exist. Last time I saw ones was on a Generator extension cord.
A receptacle or a circuit breaker that provides both AFCI and GFCI protection is known as a DFCI or dual function circuit interruptor.
Thanks, that's excellent information. Have a great day! 👍🏻
I don't think I've seen an AFCI breaker that wasn't also GFCI. Their light blinks when you reset them, and the number of blinks corresponds to the trip reason, and every one I've seen had a code for ground fault detected.
@@dtemp132 I know that is not correct because I put in a "combination Afci breaker" for my garage. The gfci tester does not trip the breaker. I put gfci in the receptacles so I have both. The Combo AFCI is not to be confused with Dual.
So if I’m correct the afci/gfci it’s Basically a breaker?
No afci/gfci do not provide over current protection like a breaker.
Yes you are correct it will function like a breaker in the sense that if you install the afci or GFCI receptacle as the first receptacle in the series it will protect all receptacles on that circuit downstream so yes you are correct
I have a GFCI outlet in the kitchen near my oven where I use my coffee maker. It trips every time I use the coffee maker. Should I go to the breaker and change the switch to a higher voltage? If not, what other options do I have?
NO! Switching from a 15A to 20A breaker will NOT solve your problem. That's the kind of dumb stuff people used to do with their fuses--putting pennies and washers in to bypass the fuse because they were too lazy to figure out what was wrong or too cheap to hire someone or fix it.
If your GFCI outlet/receptacle is tripping, it is because something is shorting out OR the outlet has gone bad. Plug your coffee maker into a different GFCI outlet to see if it trips there too. If it trips there, you know your coffee maker has an issue. If it doesn't trip on the new outlet, it could be the outlet by your stove has gone bad and needs replacement.
IF your coffee maker is tripping the BREAKER in your electrical panel, you may have a circuit that shares several outlets with a lot of high-draw devices, toaster, coffee maker, blender, hair dryer...etc. and when you turn them all on during your morning routine, you are overloading your circuit and the breaker is tripping to save your ass. Turn off that breaker and identify which outlets are controlled by that breaker. Balance your loads by using different circuits for your high draw devices.
If any of this is Greek to you, get a competent handy man or electrician to check things.
Bill, great video! I think electrical safety is very important and under-rated.
DISCLAIMER: *I am just a DIY homeowner*
Is it true or am I mistaken that you only need one of these special receptacles as the first one in the circuit from the panel to get the protection benefit on the entire circuit? I think you've done a video or two on locating the first receptacle in a circuit. Is there any benefit to installing these specialized receptacles after the first one on the circuit? I think (again, just a DIYer) that the wiring type (series/daisy-chained vs. parallel) comes into play here.
You mentioned that AFCI/GFCI receptacles are needed in kitchen areas. Does that include the one for the refrigerator/freezer? Couldn't that be an issue? If so, do you have any recommendations to mitigate the risk (of coming home to a warm refrigerator and defrosted freezer)? Alarm, of course, but that might not help after a day at work or a weekend away. Do they sell refrigerators that have a backup power plug?
GFCI protection is required in wet areas (kitchen, bathroom, garage, outside, laundry room). Only the first outlet on the circuit needs to be a GFCI. The GFCI receptacle is marked with line (incoming power) and load (outgoing power). Any other outlets needing GFCI protection they must be connected to the load side of the GFCI. One GFCI protects all outlets connected to it, no other outlet needs to be a GFCI receptacle except for the first one. Appliances such as a refrigerator or dishwasher do not require GFCI protection.
You need to have the circuit run through the gfci receptacle (in line, out load), but downstream of that, you can wire the normal receptacles however you want; wire through them or pigtail off a splice. Makes no difference.
It's important that the receptacles are daisy chained, one line in and the other out to the next receptacle, for a single GFCI to protect downstream outlets. In my case my some of my kitchen outlets are fed out radially from junction boxes in the attic, so I had to use GFCI's at each receptacle location.
I always use WR/TR GFCI where ever needed
Excellent!
Excellent video, thank you for this Bill.
Thanks Patrick, have a great day! 👍🏻
Nice video Bill.Do you find full aluminum wiring in lots of old houses?Was 10 and 12 gauge aluminum wiring also used in commercial/industrial electrical wiring?
I've never run into aluminum wiring in my area.
I find Contractor's here in Oakland still wanting to use Aluminum wire. Stay on top of inspection.
@@carlmax46 if an electrical contractor is using aluminium wiring for anything besides outside feeder line to the house, they need to be jailed.
Wow, the Eaton receptacle is way bigger. The only brand that I ever buy is Leviton because they make great products and are my favourite brand for switches and receptacles. My first time doing a switch and receptacle upgrade, I used Pass and Seymour and I was not impressed at all especially with the eggshell finish.
That size difference can be a very big deal. Thanks Matthew, have a great day!
Sparky Channel definitely especially in older houses from the 50s, 60s and 70s where the gang boxes in the walls are much smaller than the modern ones! Leviton’s size is the best!
Eaton service panels and breakers are first rate though. The modern receptacles do need bigger boxes, which is a pain I agree.
Paul Wheeless for receptacles and switches Leviton is my favourite make; for dimers, Lutron is my favourite make. Eaton definitely does make good service panels and breakers though I totally agree and Eaton is my second favourite for receptacles and switches. Home Depot only sells Leviton and Home Hardware only sells Eaton. I find the customer service is much better in Home Hardware than Home Depot but the receptacle and switch selection is better in Home Depot.
As mentioned, the one brand I am not to keen on is Pass and Seymour because I find it a poor quality product and I find the eggshell finish institutional! They’re sold at Lowes!
Ahh, you mean their eggshell durability?
Wonderful and informative vid, Spark!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks Fred!
I would like Sparky/Bill to explain the difference between "Combo" and "Dual Function".
A combo refers to a AFCI which has series and parallel arc fault protection. Series is an a break in the hot wire causing arcing. Parallel is an arcing between the neutral and hot wire. Dual Function has both AFCI and GFCI protection. The Leviton brand DF
also has series and parallel arc fault protection.
@@surferdude642 thank you sir!👍
If I'm going to bother bringing any of my old electrical up to code, then I'm just going with afci/GFCI breakers and standard outlets. The cost difference isn't that much and if it technically safer then great. Honestly this should just be the default, we're just used to living with stupid outdated technology.
All I can think about is that 10 year old in the kitchen blindly pressing reset on the outlet when there is a short in the circuit.
Thanks the code, Now I can NOT use a laser printer in a dewelling unit!!!!
2020 NEC mandates AFCI protection in virtually every circuit in the house? Man, this code is really getting out of hand - someone needs to reign those idiots in and tell them that we dont need Cadillac protection everywhere. I've rarely ever seen an AFCI breaker or outlet ever installed in the real world.
Dude, Where do you live?, cause they're are everywhere in new construction is SE PA.
@@Eric-ff4mz I live in Missouri and previously in Iowa. Most houses are 30-60 years old so probably were built before this was code, but no one ever upgrades them and you never hear of any serious incidents that could have been prevented by AFCI, so clearly they aren't really needed in the new houses either. Code writers trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
Very informative video and now I know and knowing is Half the Battle!
Eaton outlets just from my own laymans perspective look and feel much superior when compared to Leviton. Same when I compared Square D breakers to GE. Needless to say I replaced my panel with Square D and all my outlets and switches are Eaton commercial grade.
Excellent, thanks!
Is there a 20A WR TR GF AF to rule them all?
Not that I know of, but maybe in the future. :)
Haha, if that's what you need, you'll need to install an AFCI/GFCI combination breaker and then install a regular WR/TR outlet without the AFCI/GFCI
My Electrical Bro! You should, if your not already, teach the trade!! Great Info. for
refresher/reminder!! Thank you!
Thanks so much, have a great day! 👍🏻
Do any of your recepticles safely handle 220v
No sir, these are 120V devices.
Why are electricians called sparkies? They spend 90% of their time with nose in a code book. They should be called "amateur lawyers who also sometimes wire shit"
Good information Sparky.
Thanks Gary, have a great day!
Leviton doesn't make a Weather Resistant (WR) AGCI/GFCI receptical. What gives?
Only available in GFCI. WR receptacles only provide UV and corrosion "resistant" materials. This WR receptacles still need to be placed with in use outdoor covers per manufacture instructions. These do not have an IP rating.
@@mugen-mundo Thank you.
Very good info Wild Bill ...Great products ..
Thanks Eddy, have a great day! 👍🏻
What is the little line for in the neutral 20 amp outlet
What line?
On 20 amp outlets they have a line on the front of them on the neutral side
coolgamer 6554 oh. That’s for equipment that requires a 20A circuit. The neutral prong on a 20A plug is horizontal. So 20A rated receptacles accept either 15A rated plugs with vertical neutral prongs or 20A rated plugs with horizontal neutral plugs. This prevents a 20A plug from being plugged into a 15A only receptacle. Take a look at the NEMA plug chart for the different orientations for various voltages, amperages, and phases. Will blow your mind.
Russell Brown oh okay thank you 😊
Allows you to plug in a 20amp plug.
Anyone has nuisance tripping for their Leviton AFCI/GFCI 20A outlet when a toaster or rice cooker is turned on but still under 20 Amp load?
I had that problem (but on a 15 amp circuit). To solve it, I tried disconnecting the outlet, and cleaning up and reinstalling the wires. Well, that didn't help. The solution for me was to buy a higher quality outlet. I bought a couple of Eaton's and that solved my problem. Maybe it'll help you.
@@fredsalter1915 I cannot seem to find Eaton 20A GFCI/AFCI receptacle, any suggestions?
@@jtwu8931 A 20 Amp AFCI breaker, installed in the breaker panel, that supplies a GFCI receptacle. Better protection because this also provides AFCI protection for the feed from the panel to the receptacle. But only do this if the conductor from the panel to the receptacle is #12 AWG.
@@johnsketcher2222 true but the breakers are a lot more expensive than having the circuit protected by strategically placed receptacles
@@fredsalter1915 you say Eaton is higher quality. Is that because it costs more or its generally recognized as being high quality? Is Leviton high quality?
Eaton GFCI has better back connector than Levinton. I like the green light on Levinton though
Thanks!
Ethan brands are the most durable gfci. Cause I can tell you it can take a serious jamming
Good information. But six devices is crazy. The devices should cover all the bases and there should only be two: 15amp & 20amp
OK, thanks!
The first two were more vendor specific comparisons between two equivalent devices. The next two were just amperage differentiated WR GFCIs, and the last two were amperage differentiated combination AFCI/GFCI outlets.
What would've been good to include would be an older non-TR variety and reference the 406.12 language changes regarding TR recepticles.
Are these class A I'm trying to find out about the class A
Excellent video, thank you!
No problem, thanks!
Ware do u find the codes ?
In a code book or you can find them online as well.
Thanks :)
NFPA sells copies of the NEC (NFPA 70) directly, or you can often get the book from retailers, such as Barnes and Noble or Amazon.
I don't know there were so much GFCI out let
Man I'm happy to live in Germany. All those sockets, plugs and all those differential current detector types are insane. Working for US companies is totally nuts with all those regulations....
Cheers from San Diego, California!
@Guns N' Glory and we wish you would stay out of California!
@Guns N' Glory you have a short memory. how many times have we bailed out Germany.
Good stuff, Thanks Sparky
Thanks, have a great day!
Why not install a GFCI on the panel for the entire line, save some $$ and be protected overall.
Excellent idea. Sometimes older homes don't have GFCI breakers available for their old panel though.
@@SparkyChannel oh, really....
I have to have a new panel installed anyways in the 1979 Mobil home I'm buying anyways cuz to prior dummy owner ran 2 different set of devices to the Same 15 Amp Breaker Circuit..
@@Naplesfran Ouch! It will be a nice upgrade though.
Effectively, the difference between a "15A" and a "20A" GFCI is the cover plate and any TR/WR options.
The unit themselves both handle 20A loads.
No
@@kingturgan1 ?
From Leviton website for GFNT1-W:
15 Amp, 125 Volt Receptacle/Outlet, _20 Amp Feed-Through_
A 15A GFCI outlet still protects up to a 20A circuit.
@@JasonW. a 15amp GFCI should not be used on a 20amp circuit
@@kingturgan1 I'm not sure how to phrase this other than, no, you are wrong.
A 15A receptacle is able to be used on a 20A circuit. If not, almost every house built would be violating code. What you can't do is put a single plug 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit.
Outside of that fact, a 15A GFNT1-W is a 20A capable device, with 20A internals. The one I have opened up even had 20A plug parts, but the faceplate did not have the 20A flat blade cut-out. Apparently, Leviton charges extra for that missing plastic for 20A plugs.
If you still believe you are correct, no 15A outlet receptacles can be used on any 20A circuits, please inform us all where exactly this is stated within NEC (any year since 1996).
@@JasonW. okay you could be right and I am probably wrong. Thanks for informing me.
Very helpful video!
Thanks Ken!
great video
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Save $ and do it at the panel!!
The GFCI breakers start at $40 and go up. GFCI receptacles are $20 and you could put many additional normal receptacles on the LOAD terminals. Not sure how doing it at the panel saves money.
@@dtemp132 reasons for putting in a AFCI/GFCI breaker: the gfci/afci receptacle won't fit in the first box, the first box is not accessible (behind furniture), the first outlet is a light and multiple recepticles are connected to it, the protected circuit covers multiple rooms making it hard to find the tripped recepticle, you can put AFCI in the breaker and gfci in just the recepticle(s) that need it, a buried uf-b cable is supposed to be gfci (or afci?) Protected before it goes underground, the breaker gives diagnostic information about the type of fault. Disclaimer: I'm a DIY not licensed. I am asking here more than telling.
Excellent reasons Mark! Here's one on the side of the AFCI/GFCI receptacles: On some old panels from the 50's and 60's there are no replacement AFCI/GFCI breakers available to buy.
@@SparkyChannel That's a good point. My panel is Murray, which was bought by Siemens. I think Siemens still puts the Murray name on some of the same breakers as the Siemens name for the reason of being able to use them as a listed breaker for a Murray panel. But I might not always have that option.
Mark Lawry buried UF cable doesn’t need gfci or afci protection. However, giving it GFCI protection allows you to, in certain situations, bury it at a shallower depth than you’d normally have to.
20 amp receptacle is for a dedicated circuit, to be use for microwave, toaster or water pump motor. Only one receptacle per 20 amp breaker.
Is that a code restriction? I think it'd be ideal for a 20A circuit where the 20A GFCI is the first outlet in the string and the rest of the string is wired downstream of that outlet's GFCI function. E.g. the outlets in a kitchen.
That's not true. You can have more than one. You are confusing single outlet receptacles, which you should have just one (vs duplex).
☕🍩
Cheers with coffee and donuts!
lol. woohoo
Thanks Dave, have a great day!