Great I'm apprenticeship ING with habitat for humanity wiring home's and I was contemplating putting an extra receptacle in my bathroom , thank you for the demonstration it will help me!
It's very sad that most large contracting company is on housing developments do the code minimum of one receptacle per 12 ft wall in a bedroom when you had that one receptacle behind the bed board it's very hard to get the electric blanket and alarm clocks and night lights all hooked up to both sides of the bed for His & Hers the actual cost to put it in an extra extra receptacle is probably less than $10 time and material I have always been one to over Supply the owner of the home in an extra Outlet or two it doesn't cost that much more and it makes people's lives much easier down the road
@@shirkophobe LOL, that's funny! When I was in Nashville for the Ideal Championships I invited Scotty to the finals. He said he couldn't make it because it was close to Christmas. It would have been cool if he could have made it. I would have done a video with him!
406.4 is specifically for replacing non grounding type recepticals where an equipment grounding conductor does not exist. Since there is a grounding conductor that code wouldnt apply
Wow! Thank you for the quality of your videos & your explanations ! Top notch ! I love seeing tradesman that know their stuff & do clean work . I am older guy who worked doing electrical work under supervision of heavy industrial electricians who had good old school fundamental trainng. The one guy learned in vo tech & then in Air Force , went into industrial work later in life . He really taught me the importance of trouble shooting & not overlooking the simplest things first ! I learned to ask someone when I ran into something I wasn't totally familiar with . I see the electrician in the video used blue non conductive bands around the terminals .I like those . I usually wrap electrical tape around to protect in a similar fashion . I ve been told ,its a waste of time! I like it as an added layer of protection !
406.4 (D) (2) (C) only applies to grounding type receptacles installed after a GFCI if there isn’t a ground. Specifically. So since the is an equipment ground in this circuit, that section doesn’t apply and no label is needed. If you read the section on on screen in the video it specifically says that. But they should have been weather resistant of course.
Yahhh I got the violations right. Mainly cause I got hit with these few years ago lol. Was installing a underground 200 foot pipe run and exterior outlets for a home depot tool rental, got inspected and didn't pass cause the outlets weren't weather resistant. Fixed and was "saul good man" love your channel and knowledge sparky you da man !!!!
A fourth violation is of 110.3(B). The outdoor device box with 1/2” hubs is only listed for use with threaded conduit (I.e. rigid conduit or IMC). EMT fittings aren’t technically allowed to be used with these boxes. Again, not the fault of this electrician. He used what they gave him to use.
In washington state the violation would be not wearing your license visibly. Here you have to actively wear your license at all times while doing electrical work.
I picked up right away he was not using weather resistant receptacles. Receptacles with the green dot are usually 20amp hospital grade receptacles and they are not listed for outside.
Good points you brought up here Bill. I noticed he used a regular screwdriver to install the receptacle to the box. I use one of those hand held electric screwdrivers, especially when installing a whole slew of receptacles. Saves on the old wrist 😂
1. Greg didn't caulk around the box. 2. Greg did not use a level to make sure the receptacles are perfectly straight up and down. 3. Greg did not use a Platinum-Titanium coated screwdriver to prevent scratching the screws.
I waited to see a spring load type wire tuck into the box. I Always feel like I could do that more efficiently and you have to start that plan immediately. But a shove & hold seemed effective enough for the ideal pro 🤣 I know this is not a demonstration for cosmetic perfection but every once in a blue moon, I'll pop a receptacle open and be pleasantly surprised by the professionalism in the wire tuck. Not very often but it does happen. Seeing something straped to the box with 1 and a ½ inches of wire being left is much more common here in philly. Especially if the home owner claims some "crazy unique issue" 🙄 that couldn't possibly be from the install.
Hey, I’m Kimberly Rodriguez a senior at Bronx Design And Construction Academy and currently in the electrical major, my instructor recommends a lot of your videos they have helped me understand NEC requirements and violations that can be easily made, I have learned a lot from them thanks a lot, really appreciated it.
Hi Kimberly. Write me at wpm44@yahoo.com if you would like some Sparky Channel stickers. They are the perfect size for hard hats. Also, I can send some for fellow students if you like as well.
@@SparkyChannel Your videos has been helpful throughout our senior year in high school. We’ve applied code regulations when doing our jobs or lessons our instructor gives us. We’ve learned so much by watching your videos, we appreciate you!!
@@SparkyChannel Hey sparky, your videos have been very helpful to me and my senior peers in BXDCA, also your conduits bending videos have been a blessing, made conduit bending a little bit more easier, especially the 3 points and 4 points saddle bends.
I'm going out on a limb here, but I think that that section of the NEC only applies when there is no EGC in the box. Since all the work shown has an EGC then you will have to look elsewhere for the labeling requirement.
Depends on the inspector, in my jurisdiction, they demand it. Inspectors fancy themselves demi-gods and arguing with them leads to unnecessary challenges.
Yep. Same thing in the IT field. I appreciate true experience and knowledge in any fiield, but the bottom line is nothing this guy did put the busines owner or contractor at substanial risk, physically or financially. But some people like to geek out on the code, so there it is...
@@SparkyChannel No disrepsect intend, by the way, I appreciate what you're doing and as a person who does some of their own electrical work, I have learned a lot from your channel and grateful for the education.
Good info. I would argue that the "GFCI Protected" label is only required where there is no equipment ground present. The typical scenario is replacement of a non-grounding type receptacle with a GFCI-protected grounding type receptacle (in this scenario the receptacle itself can be a GFCI type, or it can be protected by an upstream GFCI device). Then both "GFCI Protected" and "No Equipment Ground" labels are required.
No, when the down stream receptacles have a ground and are GFCI protected they get that sticker, when they don't have a ground they also get the no equipment ground sticker.
Realistically, imagine those labels in a millionaires home? Not a chance. (they will have them removed instantly.) Even at anyones home, you think the homeowners going to replace that sticker that was on that plate ? Nah. Besides, if your a pro and don't have a gfci tester when troubleshooting, tgan you no pro. I Think that code was for well before the days of having said tester.. We now have breakers arc/ground fault that protect whole floors mainly basements. That code is so outdated.
I definitely don’t recommend taping or installing the ideal bands on outside GFCIs. Moisture can collect on the tape/band and create a path from the phase to ground, causing a nuisance GFCI trip.
@@SparkyChannel not saying this will always happen, just my experience with the humidity here in Kansas. If the box is sealed well it might not be an issue.
I think you wrong about the marking. The marking as gfci protected only apply when you replace none grounding type (2 prongs) with grounding type receptacle (3 prongs). In this case I don’t think you have to say this receptacle is gfci protected because it has to have gfci protected no matter what when installing outside per current code. Still thanks much for sharing I don’t think anyone know everything about the NEC. I see even the whole inspector department of a big city (5 inspectors total) miss understood about 210.12(D)(2) exception too.
This was my thought. That code is in reference to replacing a 2 wire non grounded receptacle with a gfci, or putting one at the start of the line to protect plugs downstream
It's been awhile since I've done electrical work but the gfcis I know Levitin brand came with stickers and the sticker said ground-fault intercept protected and you would usually put them on the outlets that are away from the GFCI so that the person would know that that's ground-fault protected
Tell me about it. There's no comparison when it comes to long-term reliability in residential work. Just be sure to go with WAGO and not the cheap knock-offs.
37 years as the IBEW contractor and employee over 10 to 14 employees at a time I would never allow them to use Wago or ideal push in connectors as I would never allow them to use backstabbing into a receptacle your contact surface area of the wire is very minimal on each of these a good wire nut covers three quarters of an inch or 5/8 of an inch of solid copper that is Twisted together in a very secure manner thus giving you a much more surface area conductivity
With all due respect to my fellow electricians over the pond, watching this video, I think European/UK electrical installations are much better, "Simplification" is the word.
All looks good to me but I see how he just push all the wiring to the back of the box , when I had seeing others and I do it my self to bend them nicely like in a accordion way to be able to be accommodated in the back or if they need to be pull out it can be easy ,my opinion
Hey J CM, just an explanation of why that technique is not used in this alplication: In your house you would be using romex (NMD-90) which contains solid wire. Here, he is using stranded THHN which won't bend or stay put the same way as solid wire. Cheers
@@jimbojames9370 I know , and agree but I still don't just push them in like that I try my best to accommodate them, it was a bit of a bother thinking he was doing it for a competition and people was going to look at it I would think he would do the best to "try " to bend them in nicer
@@ip5232 couldn't agree more. Part of the judging I'm sure is on speed... just as that seems to be all the customer cares about now... "how fast can you get that done?" At the end of the day it seems now the only one holding us accountable is ourselves... people don't tend to notice workmanship anymore....
@suspicionofdeceit Just do not plug in a freezer or other cap start device since the GFI sees power charging the capacitor and not returning which may trigger it.
@@Sparkeycarp plastic or metal, doesn't matter. It's the size of the box that does. Just remember, you have to have a minimum length conductor able to pull out of the box, and he's got it for either receptacle, one at a time.
HI bill from Sparky Channel LOVE IT I didn’t realize GFCI receptacles had a weather resistant option. Thanks for the lesson and all your effort You’re a great commentator as well. Perhaps you should have been a sports announcer 🏎 👍👍👍
Oh yes, they've been around for a while now. I told them at the IDEAL championship that if anything happened to their announcer I could fill in. LOL! Thanks Jeff!
Hey Bill. You covered the labeling of down stream GFCI protected receptacles in your video, "Do Stickers Need to be Placed on Grounded Receptacles Protected by GFCI and AFCI/GFCI?". I agreeded that labeling is not required. The article quoted here, as mentioned by others, is for installing grounded receps on non-grounded systems protected by GFCI devices. The only obscure reference might be, 110.3(B) listing/instructions. Leviton GFCI instruction say to install labels on protected devices in the testing documentation. The only time I've labeled is per 404.6 (D)(2)(C). I've never been called on general labeling. Our inspectors test for protection on required receptacles. Corrections are always appreciated to my statements.
I understand what you're saying. If you know your inspector won't require that the protected receptacle be marked then that's OK with me. I always put on the stickers, then the users know that the receptacle is protected. Thanks Don!
In my jurisdiction, it is a bug-a-boo which inspectors love to fail you on. I insist on it, my apprentices think I'm a daft old lady, but arguing with inspectors over the fine points of code is only going to result in the digging until they find something.
@@ethelryan257 I don't argue. I just have them prove me wrong. If I'm wrong , I'm wrong, I'll accept it. Some inspectors have nothing better to do than pick some obscure code reference, like GFCI labeling, and see who they can nail. I don't buy it. We have cross trained inspectors in Oregon for residential, ie building inspectors who take an electrical course to do electrical inspections. They pick some building code that reflects upon the electrical code and can enforce it. like light fixture encroachment into stairwells...Like I really was aware of that! But it proved me wrong.
@@donl1410 It just depends on how much your local code authorities let inspectors deviate from UBC and NEC. In my county, they are demi-gods and there is no recourse. They are also vengeful and petty. There is no 'prove you wrong' to it - they can and do red tag and slap up the orange 'stop work' orders on a whim. Now, one county over, totally different. I had an inspector get upset a few years ago because I used Wago 221 connectors. He demanded every one be pulled and wirenuts used. I asked why, when they were not only code but made for a safer and cleaner install on old work. He said they were just like backstabbed receptacles. I pulled the code book, and the listings on the Wago 221s and he realized he'd just been listening to nonsense, it was the first time he'd seen them. Passed. In my county? One does not argue, one does not 'let be proved wrong' one thanks the god for pissing on us and calling it warm rain. Lucky you. As to labeling, I regard it like that rock band who put a clause in their contract that no M&Ms of a certain color could be in their break room - it's a sign of conscientious workman like attention to detail.
I'm impressed but fastest isn't always the best. Cramming the wires in the box could cause damage and a future problem. Also, put a little No alox in the threaded holes on the Bell box and on the conduit hub so the screws and fittings won't seize up. Make your install permanent and serviceable.
NEC 406.4(D) is covering receptacle replacement, not new installation. Section 406.4(D)(2) is referring to replacement of an non-grounding-type receptacle when you don't have ground in the box. The electrician here is not replacing a receptacle and has ground in the box, so the citation does not apply. NEC 210.8 is what requires the GFCI protection in this install and it only states the GFCI be "installed in a readily accessible location"--i.e., so it can be reset, if tripped. The stickers are useful, but still not required, when the GFCI protection is not immediately obvious, but that does not apply in this case. Even NEC 422.5 doesn't have labeling requirements for GFCI protection on appliances, but it specifically lists "a device or outlet in the supply circuit".
The earlier shot in the vid showed both items to be marked 'WR', but the items at the end of the vid were not -----hence the infractions. That threw me for a minute. There earlier shot must have been 'how it should be'...
How about that!!! I got two right!!! Receptacles not weather resistant!!! I learned that on Sparky Channel!!!! I didnt even think about the label since they're both in the same box.
The shop I worked with never wrapped devices in tape like that. I know florida code requires it. Is that a stat to state thing? As for the supply chain problems, can cornfirm jobs were held up by lack of bath fans and breakers.
Inspectors here like to see tape or those expensive ArmourBand wraps. I don't regard code as the maximum limit, if it's not required but good practice, we do it. I want people to look at my work fifty years after I'm gone and say, 'yup that was old Ethel. Despite being a woman, she was good. And, yes, the sexism won't ever leave the trades.
That paragraph (c) quoted is for replacing non-grounding receptacles with GFCI fed ones. I'd say it doesn't apply since he wasn't doing that. If you DO think it applies, then why didn't you mention the 'No Equipment Ground' label? The paragraph you cited says BOTH labels. Now before you start to reply, I'm sure there IS a paragraph somewhere that says it should be labeled 'GFCI Protected' and it should be labeled. Just NOT the paragraph you show in the video.
God I’m glad I’m an electrician in Australia, we just call them GPO ( general purpose outlet) and we can fit one off in about 35 seconds. This looks painful
@@Bushrookie820 What are you talking about having to run steel conduit in houses? Are you referring to the codes where you live? We don't have to run any steel conduit in houses whatsoever in America
Got it right, but I never like to tighten down on the 10/32's to push the receptacle into the outlet. Sometimes that can force unintended damage onto wires inside a box. Not really a big concern with this box not being overloaded with wires, but still part of my common practice.
As most of the outlets available these days are Tamper Proof which makes it impossible to plug anything into them, might as well call the power company and terminate the account.
Anybody in this big of a hurry, should definitely have on there tool belt... and to the new guys, Line refers to feed in from the panel... load is power fed after...
I am taking the quiz. at 6:20 I don't see the usual test and reset buttons on the GFCI. But I realize my answer was wrong. I would remark too the pros use all these time saving products which most are not available at Home Depot/Lowes. Even if they did they are way too expensive for my tastes. The requirement to use receptacles for wet location seem overboard, as outlets are well protected from wetness because of the in use cover. I refuse the pay the outrageous prices of all these sell up products. In fact the temper-resistant receptacles are major PITA to use and often I have spend minutes to get a plug to insert.
The GFCI does have test and reset button but they are white, so they blend in with the white receptacle. Yes, tamper resistant receptacles are difficult to use sometimes.
It's not just about directly being splashed or rained on. Outdoor locations can have a lot of humidity and temperature changes that can result in condensation inside the box (and inside the outlet itself). The protective cover won't prevent that. That's why they need to use WR devices as well, because that means they've been designed to be able to handle that level of moisture in the environment around them, too.
Can you please do a video on a set of three way two pole switches tide to a fan /light combo. so as to operate the fan and/or light from two different locations?
So, the only violation that was in his control to correct was labeling the grounded receptacle as GFCI protected (labels come inside the box of the GFCI receptacle).
I think the video was cut off before he was truly finished. You didn't get to see him re-open the cover and put the label on. Just like Zenith TV's, the quality goes in the cover before the label goes on.
@@Ramdodge582 I’m guessing installation in other parts of world is as simple as plugging a cord into an outlet. Plus countries are think it’s weird that the US has a 120v standard instead of 220v at each receptacle.
Seeing this I had to double check the code, something that I haven’t done in some time as on the commercial side we install a lot of conduit and use the conduit itself as the equipment bonding conductor and rarely pull grounds; it’s been so long that we’ve done it that way I thought maybe the code changed and I didn’t even realize but nope still in 2020 NEC §358.60. For us it’s all a money thing as it saves 1,000s of feet of copper by using the conduit. I like the wet location boxes though, over say 4” JBs for receptacles and switches as they are solid; I’ve always been worried about reachable knockout boxes and kids pushing a knockout in with their little fingers. While the wet location boxes cost more they’re what’s in my basement and garage as they just offer a better level of protection, and with a nice stainless cover they don’t look to shabby either. As I’ve had to diagnose my fare share of de-energized receptacles only to find out they’re controlled by a GFCI I appreciate the marking and must say it’s one I notice is rarely done. I once saw a bathroom outlet not work because a GFCI was tripped; the GFCI though was located outside under the deck, despite having another GFCI in the bathroom some 6 feet from the first outlet, they wired the newly added outlet off the deck GFCI. May have been for more direct wiring but without labeling it, not that a simple label would have told you which GFCI controls is, would have helped much. One big thing you see in the commercial space that residential could benefit from is labeling and keeping track of additions to help with tracing.
I was also told, by men smarter than me, that those receptacles are upside down. In the event of a cord being plugged in only half way, the positive and neutral pins of the plug are open to an accidental short circuit. By installing them with the ground pin on top, it eliminates that possibility.
Upside down receptacles (ground up) is dumb and annoying. There is no code requiring the ground to be up. I'm a licensed contractor in my state and I never put them in upside down (ground up,), I can't stand it. If something falls onto the ground pin (if it is up) the object can still teeter at a 45 degree angle and make contact with the hot and ground simultaneously. Don't put receptacles in upside down, it's dumb and pointless. Edit: ... And it looks stupid
If you look at plugs from anything electrical the two prongs are on the top, and you have to twisting the cord to insert it upside down. And a twisted cord wants to unravel, so the cord doesn't lay flat, etc. more likely causing a tripping hazard or getting in the way on the counter. I have never seen a plug short out because something fell on it and crossed the hot and neutral. For something to do that it would have to be horizontal, which if tipping over, now has a better chance of causing a short with the ground up since the angle of ground to hot or neutral is easier to short than hot and neutral in a horizontal position....depending on the angle of tilt. But everyone has a way of doing there plugs. I prefer the regular way over upside down, seems safer to me that way, plus with Arcfaults in place, it doesn't matter.
@@IrrationalBstrd I'd agree the benefits are pretty minimal but if you look at old ungrounded outlets oftentimes you'll see electricians stuck to putting the hot on the left (maybe to match typical plumbing convention?) whereas with a grounded outlet placed ground down that's flipped over to the right. A metal cover plate falling on it is pretty unlikely to make a significant difference ground up vs ground down but one of the most common objects falling onto exposed prongs is a tape measure being run against a wall. That'll never short out if it's ground up. Also, even if you follow ground down convention everywhere else one handy tip is to reverse it for switched outlets to make it more obvious which ones are affected to prevent a useless service call 10 years down the road. The only disadvantage of ground up is that it looks odd to people and flat plugs go with ground down because that's what 99% of outlets are.
Take apart a sample of a “‘weather resistant’’ GFI receptical, and a regular GFI and show us the difference. 30 plus years using GFI’s on industrial sites, and wiring homes, and have never had a problem, with outside GFI’s. What is the meaning behind the code on this device, and why was it brought in to code.
Yes, as long as the metal box/etc are properly bonded to the ground wire (which is required anyway), and the right type of connectors are used to join the conduit to the box, there is nothing wrong with using plastic conduit with metal boxes (or vice-versa).
Also not sure if he had a plastic bushing on the connector inside the panel. Could put it on later in the installation but looked like he was shaping the wires already.
I caught the WR fault. I spent the whole video trying to determine if the EMT connector on the box was a set screw type or a WR type. and I'd be back in about 4 years to replace that entire assembly, including the wire, because the screws would have all seized; with nonmetallic conduit and enclosure.addendum: you threw a curveball by showing the terminals on a WR rated GFCI.
The EMT connectors on the EMT are compression type. I believe the different color of gold on the compression nut indicates they are weather resistant. I am used to seeing blue for this. If this was commercial I believe you have to use metal boxes and conduit.
@@SparkyChannel So are the WR required for indoor wet or damp locations as well? Specifically looking at locations where the receptacle could be expected to be sprayed with water from a hose.
Still missing the required No Equipment Ground marking- "An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected between the grounding type receptacles." That implies the ground should remain unconnected.
Im not a pro electrician and I knew since the beginning the mistakes. Outdoor receptacles always have to be weatherproof. Even the screws, when we install devices like cameras.
Well, NEC 2020's 406.12 (1) talks about dwelling units listed in 210.52. 210.52 (E) specifically mentions outdoor outlets. So, I'd say "yes", they should be tamper resistant as well.
I feel stupid for not knowing about those amour bands years ago. When I wired outlets for broadcast trucks in the 90s I always wrapped the outlet terminals with rubber bishop tape. So either that hadn’t been invented yet or I didn’t know about it.
Really not practical using them. Testing with a multimeter does just as good and insulated drivers cost like 15 dollars a bit and they wear out fast. Best to save them for times when you have to touch a live circuit though personally I’d refuse that job, or in a situation where power generation is possible: working on solar panels or any sort of electric motor/generator
I pulled 2 hot, one neutral and one ground wire through flex conduit to make a whip with 2 circuits (2 duplex outlets) on it. Can I still get GFI protection to these outlets/circuits? Or do they each need a dedicated nuetral? GFI recepticals, or GFI breakers?
Separate neutrals are not required on the feeder circuit. If this is just feeding two 120V receptacles (one on each hot leg) then you will need two GFCIs (one for each hot wire). If you will be using the GFCIs to protect other downstream outlets, then they will need to have separate neutrals going from the GFCIs to the downstream outlets (you cannot tie the neutrals from the "load" side of the GFCIs together). You can also use a single (dual-pole) GFCI breaker in the box instead, but that can be more expensive.
Two comments; didn't see a nylon bushing on the box connector in the panel. Also, since he was supposed to label the GFCI with a GFCI sticker, was he also supposed to label "No Equipment Ground" as well? When reading that section of the Code it is unclear to me. Thanks, Sparky for another great video!
Why would he label it no equipment ground? There is an EGC (notice all the green ground wires he connected). He just needed to label the receptacle with "GFCI Protected" sticker.
@@illestofdemall13 Actually you don’t need to label the other receptacle at all. That only applies to receptacles without an equipment ground. It seems like he misinterpreted the code
Great I'm apprenticeship ING with habitat for humanity wiring home's and I was contemplating putting an extra receptacle in my bathroom , thank you for the demonstration it will help me!
My pleasure!
Weird I’m working with habitat wiring multi dwelling units as well lol
@@madabz81 do you get paid or is it all charity work?
@@BruceLeanTrades volunteer
It's very sad that most large contracting company is on housing developments do the code minimum of one receptacle per 12 ft wall in a bedroom when you had that one receptacle behind the bed board it's very hard to get the electric blanket and alarm clocks and night lights all hooked up to both sides of the bed for His & Hers the actual cost to put it in an extra extra receptacle is probably less than $10 time and material I have always been one to over Supply the owner of the home in an extra Outlet or two it doesn't cost that much more and it makes people's lives much easier down the road
I thought Scotty Kilmer did car videos
LOL!
😂😂😁
Maybe he’s Scotty’s calmer electrician brother. 😏
@@shirkophobe LOL, that's funny! When I was in Nashville for the Ideal Championships I invited Scotty to the finals. He said he couldn't make it because it was close to Christmas. It would have been cool if he could have made it. I would have done a video with him!
I know he sounds just like him, right? Same tone, cadence, inflection, etc.
Its so refreshing to hear "bonding" over "grounding" in your videos.
Thanks!
Why… they are two entirely different things?
406.4 is specifically for replacing non grounding type recepticals where an equipment grounding conductor does not exist. Since there is a grounding conductor that code wouldnt apply
Thanks!
Absolutely. Came here to comment the same thing
@@SparkyChannel no idea why he apply the middle of the code but not the whole thing.
Wow! Thank you for the quality of your videos & your explanations ! Top notch ! I love seeing tradesman that know their stuff & do clean work . I am older guy who worked doing electrical work under supervision of heavy industrial electricians who had good old school fundamental trainng. The one guy learned in vo tech & then in Air Force , went into industrial work later in life . He really taught me the importance of trouble shooting & not overlooking the simplest things first ! I learned to ask someone when I ran into something I wasn't totally familiar with . I see the electrician in the video used blue non conductive bands around the terminals .I like those . I usually wrap electrical tape around to protect in a similar fashion . I ve been told ,its a waste of time! I like it as an added layer of protection !
Hi Greg! I agree with everything you said. The basics are really important!
406.4 (D) (2) (C) only applies to grounding type receptacles installed after a GFCI if there isn’t a ground. Specifically. So since the is an equipment ground in this circuit, that section doesn’t apply and no label is needed. If you read the section on on screen in the video it specifically says that. But they should have been weather resistant of course.
Correct, thanks!
Yahhh I got the violations right. Mainly cause I got hit with these few years ago lol. Was installing a underground 200 foot pipe run and exterior outlets for a home depot tool rental, got inspected and didn't pass cause the outlets weren't weather resistant. Fixed and was "saul good man" love your channel and knowledge sparky you da man !!!!
Thanks so much Timbo!
A fourth violation is of 110.3(B). The outdoor device box with 1/2” hubs is only listed for use with threaded conduit (I.e. rigid conduit or IMC). EMT fittings aren’t technically allowed to be used with these boxes. Again, not the fault of this electrician. He used what they gave him to use.
In washington state the violation would be not wearing your license visibly. Here you have to actively wear your license at all times while doing electrical work.
I picked up right away he was not using weather resistant receptacles. Receptacles with the green dot are usually 20amp hospital grade receptacles and they are not listed for outside.
Yes sir, correct!
Good points you brought up here Bill. I noticed he used a regular screwdriver to install the receptacle to the box. I use one of those hand held electric screwdrivers, especially when installing a whole slew of receptacles. Saves on the old wrist 😂
Most guys would just use their drill if they didn’t want to bother with a standard screwdriver.
Bill, thanks for showing your audience the use of the silicone bands- they are fantastic!
Pricey, but nice. Now, we get to hear from the 'but they cause heat' crowd. And the 'only wirenuts are any good' crowd.
No problem, thanks!
1. Greg didn't caulk around the box.
2. Greg did not use a level to make sure the receptacles are perfectly straight up and down.
3. Greg did not use a Platinum-Titanium coated screwdriver to prevent scratching the screws.
So refreshing to see people passionate in their trade always trying to learn more and be better.
Absolutely! It was so great to be at the championships with all those great electricians!
I waited to see a spring load type wire tuck into the box. I Always feel like I could do that more efficiently and you have to start that plan immediately. But a shove & hold seemed effective enough for the ideal pro 🤣 I know this is not a demonstration for cosmetic perfection but every once in a blue moon, I'll pop a receptacle open and be pleasantly surprised by the professionalism in the wire tuck. Not very often but it does happen.
Seeing something straped to the box with 1 and a ½ inches of wire being left is much more common here in philly. Especially if the home owner claims some "crazy unique issue" 🙄 that couldn't possibly be from the install.
Hey, I’m Kimberly Rodriguez a senior at Bronx Design And Construction Academy and currently in the electrical major, my instructor recommends a lot of your videos they have helped me understand NEC requirements and violations that can be easily made, I have learned a lot from them thanks a lot, really appreciated it.
Hi Kimberly. Write me at wpm44@yahoo.com if you would like some Sparky Channel stickers. They are the perfect size for hard hats. Also, I can send some for fellow students if you like as well.
@@SparkyChannel Your videos has been helpful throughout our senior year in high school. We’ve applied code regulations when doing our jobs or lessons our instructor gives us. We’ve learned so much by watching your videos, we appreciate you!!
@@SparkyChannel Hey sparky, your videos have been very helpful to me and my senior peers in BXDCA, also your conduits bending videos have been a blessing, made conduit bending a little bit more easier, especially the 3 points and 4 points saddle bends.
@@tdnrhbm9144 Excellent, great to hear!
@@FernandoRodriguez-ur8wc Fantastic!
My opinion I would screw down the grounding entering the water proof box from the emt then run it to the wago/wire nuts last gfci and outlet 💡
I'm going out on a limb here, but I think that that section of the NEC only applies when there is no EGC in the box. Since all the work shown has an EGC then you will have to look elsewhere for the labeling requirement.
Thanks!
Depends on the inspector, in my jurisdiction, they demand it. Inspectors fancy themselves demi-gods and arguing with them leads to unnecessary challenges.
Me "Judge, I cant do this job you gave me the wrong outlets"
Judge "Correct, Pass!"
LOL! What else could the judge say?
Wow! You really put a good instructional video together and your narration was just suited perfectly.
Wow, thank you!
Never thought I would watch a play by play of receptacle wiring 🤣
LOL! Hope you enjoyed it.
I've never met an electrician who couldn't nitpick the other guys work, nor an inspector who couldn't fail a perfectly good job.
Yep. Same thing in the IT field. I appreciate true experience and knowledge in any fiield, but the bottom line is nothing this guy did put the busines owner or contractor at substanial risk, physically or financially. But some people like to geek out on the code, so there it is...
True!
@@SparkyChannel No disrepsect intend, by the way, I appreciate what you're doing and as a person who does some of their own electrical work, I have learned a lot from your channel and grateful for the education.
@@kevinmach730 That's cool, we all need to help each other. Things work better that way.
Hospital grade gfci is added and standard commercial grade outlet is added
The cover is weather resistant but the sticker on the load side is important for the inspector otherwise it will all work fine.
Thanks Patrick!
Thanks, Bill! Another very good an informative video. I appreciate your analysis and references to the code.
Thanks Tim!
Good info. I would argue that the "GFCI Protected" label is only required where there is no equipment ground present. The typical scenario is replacement of a non-grounding type receptacle with a GFCI-protected grounding type receptacle (in this scenario the receptacle itself can be a GFCI type, or it can be protected by an upstream GFCI device). Then both "GFCI Protected" and "No Equipment Ground" labels are required.
No, when the down stream receptacles have a ground and are GFCI protected they get that sticker, when they don't have a ground they also get the no equipment ground sticker.
@@saltsidellc Could you please reference where this is stated in the code? Thank you
Agreed. His reference was directly referring to a branch circuit without a ground being protected with a gfci
Realistically, imagine those labels in a millionaires home? Not a chance. (they will have them removed instantly.) Even at anyones home, you think the homeowners going to replace that sticker that was on that plate ? Nah. Besides, if your a pro and don't have a gfci tester when troubleshooting, tgan you no pro. I Think that code was for well before the days of having said tester.. We now have breakers arc/ground fault that protect whole floors mainly basements. That code is so outdated.
I definitely don’t recommend taping or installing the ideal bands on outside GFCIs. Moisture can collect on the tape/band and create a path from the phase to ground, causing a nuisance GFCI trip.
Interesting!
@@SparkyChannel not saying this will always happen, just my experience with the humidity here in Kansas. If the box is sealed well it might not be an issue.
I think you wrong about the marking. The marking as gfci protected only apply when you replace none grounding type (2 prongs) with grounding type receptacle (3 prongs). In this case I don’t think you have to say this receptacle is gfci protected because it has to have gfci protected no matter what when installing outside per current code. Still thanks much for sharing I don’t think anyone know everything about the NEC. I see even the whole inspector department of a big city (5 inspectors total) miss understood about 210.12(D)(2) exception too.
This was my thought. That code is in reference to replacing a 2 wire non grounded receptacle with a gfci, or putting one at the start of the line to protect plugs downstream
Yeah you are absolutely right
It's been awhile since I've done electrical work but the gfcis I know Levitin brand came with stickers and the sticker said ground-fault intercept protected and you would usually put them on the outlets that are away from the GFCI so that the person would know that that's ground-fault protected
Yes, the stickers come in the GFCI box, good point.
It's nice to see pros use the Ideal Push-In connectors. I love em, even though a lot of pros will only ever use wire nuts.
Tell me about it. There's no comparison when it comes to long-term reliability in residential work. Just be sure to go with WAGO and not the cheap knock-offs.
Thanks!
@@ethelryan257
I like Wago for lever lock type connectors, and Ideal for the Push-In type. :)
37 years as the IBEW contractor and employee over 10 to 14 employees at a time I would never allow them to use Wago or ideal push in connectors as I would never allow them to use backstabbing into a receptacle your contact surface area of the wire is very minimal on each of these a good wire nut covers three quarters of an inch or 5/8 of an inch of solid copper that is Twisted together in a very secure manner thus giving you a much more surface area conductivity
Hey sparky this helps, as an apprentice who forgot a few things from school. Wanted to say thanks.
Happy to help!
With all due respect to my fellow electricians over the pond, watching this video, I think European/UK electrical installations are much better, "Simplification" is the word.
Ya no, nothing in Europe is better than America. 🤷
@@markwison4286 the food is....
How so?
@@tttarms1970 and we at least have healthcare america is literally a third world country with a Gucci belt
@@kornelsnow3639 we have healthcare
The GFCI is a medical grade device, not rated for exterior applications. Also I see no WR stamp on the 20a Duplex Receptacle either.
Yes, correct!
Mr. Sparky I always enjoy your videos sir !
Thanks Daniel!
Good video Sparky. He is methodocal and efficient.
Yes, good observation. Good work pace.
All looks good to me but I see how he just push all the wiring to the back of the box , when I had seeing others and I do it my self to bend them nicely like in a accordion way to be able to be accommodated in the back or if they need to be pull out it can be easy ,my opinion
Thanks!
Hey J CM, just an explanation of why that technique is not used in this alplication: In your house you would be using romex (NMD-90) which contains solid wire. Here, he is using stranded THHN which won't bend or stay put the same way as solid wire. Cheers
@@jimbojames9370 I know , and agree but I still don't just push them in like that I try my best to accommodate them, it was a bit of a bother thinking he was doing it for a competition and people was going to look at it I would think he would do the best to "try " to bend them in nicer
@@ip5232 couldn't agree more. Part of the judging I'm sure is on speed... just as that seems to be all the customer cares about now... "how fast can you get that done?" At the end of the day it seems now the only one holding us accountable is ourselves... people don't tend to notice workmanship anymore....
He’s using solid wire in this video
Don’t forget the arc fault breaker in the breaker box. With GFI and arc fault, that sucker will never work. There is nothing safer than that!
? I don't see the problem?
@suspicionofdeceit Just do not plug in a freezer or other cap start device since the GFI sees power charging the capacitor and not returning which may trigger it.
Great video. I don't think I could do that work with gloves on. LOL. One QUESTION: Why such the long tails in the non-GFCI receptacle?
Makes it easier to install or remove if you have to do just one.
Yep, try that much wire in a plastic box.
@@Sparkeycarp plastic or metal, doesn't matter. It's the size of the box that does. Just remember, you have to have a minimum length conductor able to pull out of the box, and he's got it for either receptacle, one at a time.
That was some fancy Ideal electrical tape.
They are: Ideal Industries 47-110J Insulating Wrap Silicone Blue Tape ArmourBand: Amazon: amzn.to/3AYI5Rk
HI bill from Sparky Channel
LOVE IT
I didn’t realize GFCI receptacles had a weather resistant option.
Thanks for the lesson and all your effort
You’re a great commentator as well.
Perhaps you should have been a sports announcer 🏎
👍👍👍
Oh yes, they've been around for a while now. I told them at the IDEAL championship that if anything happened to their announcer I could fill in. LOL! Thanks Jeff!
Hey Bill. You covered the labeling of down stream GFCI protected receptacles in your video, "Do Stickers Need to be Placed on Grounded Receptacles Protected by GFCI and AFCI/GFCI?". I agreeded that labeling is not required. The article quoted here, as mentioned by others, is for installing grounded receps on non-grounded systems protected by GFCI devices.
The only obscure reference might be, 110.3(B) listing/instructions. Leviton GFCI instruction say to install labels on protected devices in the testing documentation. The only time I've labeled is per 404.6 (D)(2)(C). I've never been called on general labeling. Our inspectors test for protection on required receptacles.
Corrections are always appreciated to my statements.
I understand what you're saying. If you know your inspector won't require that the protected receptacle be marked then that's OK with me. I always put on the stickers, then the users know that the receptacle is protected. Thanks Don!
In my jurisdiction, it is a bug-a-boo which inspectors love to fail you on. I insist on it, my apprentices think I'm a daft old lady, but arguing with inspectors over the fine points of code is only going to result in the digging until they find something.
@@ethelryan257 I don't argue. I just have them prove me wrong. If I'm wrong , I'm wrong, I'll accept it. Some inspectors have nothing better to do than pick some obscure code reference, like GFCI labeling, and see who they can nail. I don't buy it. We have cross trained inspectors in Oregon for residential, ie building inspectors who take an electrical course to do electrical inspections. They pick some building code that reflects upon the electrical code and can enforce it. like light fixture encroachment into stairwells...Like I really was aware of that! But it proved me wrong.
@@donl1410 It just depends on how much your local code authorities let inspectors deviate from UBC and NEC. In my county, they are demi-gods and there is no recourse. They are also vengeful and petty.
There is no 'prove you wrong' to it - they can and do red tag and slap up the orange 'stop work' orders on a whim.
Now, one county over, totally different. I had an inspector get upset a few years ago because I used Wago 221 connectors. He demanded every one be pulled and wirenuts used. I asked why, when they were not only code but made for a safer and cleaner install on old work.
He said they were just like backstabbed receptacles. I pulled the code book, and the listings on the Wago 221s and he realized he'd just been listening to nonsense, it was the first time he'd seen them.
Passed.
In my county? One does not argue, one does not 'let be proved wrong' one thanks the god for pissing on us and calling it warm rain.
Lucky you.
As to labeling, I regard it like that rock band who put a clause in their contract that no M&Ms of a certain color could be in their break room - it's a sign of conscientious workman like attention to detail.
I'm impressed but fastest isn't always the best. Cramming the wires in the box could cause damage and a future problem. Also, put a little No alox in the threaded holes on the Bell box and on the conduit hub so the screws and fittings won't seize up. Make your install permanent and serviceable.
Thanks!
STL8 works far better for that
My customer was pissed that WT receptacles cost $10 more, but after i explained that it’s NEC code he came around to buying them
I hear that!
Wouldn’t a used fire extinguisher be cheaper?
NEC 406.4(D) is covering receptacle replacement, not new installation. Section 406.4(D)(2) is referring to replacement of an non-grounding-type receptacle when you don't have ground in the box. The electrician here is not replacing a receptacle and has ground in the box, so the citation does not apply.
NEC 210.8 is what requires the GFCI protection in this install and it only states the GFCI be "installed in a readily accessible location"--i.e., so it can be reset, if tripped.
The stickers are useful, but still not required, when the GFCI protection is not immediately obvious, but that does not apply in this case.
Even NEC 422.5 doesn't have labeling requirements for GFCI protection on appliances, but it specifically lists "a device or outlet in the supply circuit".
The earlier shot in the vid showed both items to be marked 'WR', but the items at the end of the vid were not -----hence the infractions. That threw me for a minute. There earlier shot must have been 'how it should be'...
Yes, the earlier photo was from a previous video of mine.
Looking for the breaker end of the install. Thank you.
See: Pro Round 2 IDEAL National Championship from Nashville 2021 Troubleshooting and Panel Installation: th-cam.com/video/tKfE4mPtdkQ/w-d-xo.html
How about that!!! I got two right!!! Receptacles not weather resistant!!! I learned that on Sparky Channel!!!! I didnt even think about the label since they're both in the same box.
Woohoo! That makes me happy!
Paused the video at 6:26 to point at what looks like violations. Neither receptacle appears to be weather resistant nor tamper resistant.
They are not WR. I think they are TR though. They had supply chain problems.
Good morning Bill, have a great weekend 😎🛠️😎🛠️😎
Thanks, you too!
The shop I worked with never wrapped devices in tape like that. I know florida code requires it. Is that a stat to state thing? As for the supply chain problems, can cornfirm jobs were held up by lack of bath fans and breakers.
Yeah, the show had to go on with what they had.
Inspectors here like to see tape or those expensive ArmourBand wraps. I don't regard code as the maximum limit, if it's not required but good practice, we do it.
I want people to look at my work fifty years after I'm gone and say, 'yup that was old Ethel. Despite being a woman, she was good. And, yes, the sexism won't ever leave the trades.
Not to mention its safer if you have to get in the box while live
That paragraph (c) quoted is for replacing non-grounding receptacles with GFCI fed ones. I'd say it doesn't apply since he wasn't doing that. If you DO think it applies, then why didn't you mention the 'No Equipment Ground' label? The paragraph you cited says BOTH labels.
Now before you start to reply, I'm sure there IS a paragraph somewhere that says it should be labeled 'GFCI Protected' and it should be labeled. Just NOT the paragraph you show in the video.
Thanks, good attention to details!
@@SparkyChannel I admire your tact. I'm not a lady, my response would have been a bit...frostier.
OCD is kicking in. I would have used 2 square style receptacles.
God I’m glad I’m an electrician in Australia, we just call them GPO ( general purpose outlet) and we can fit one off in about 35 seconds. This looks painful
Thanks Dylan!
Im from New Zealand and I couldn't agree more with you, so much of what they do seems backwards and unsafe just because that's the way it has to done
@@Peaches_NZ yep 100% , something about still doing steel conduit and steel fittings in houses in 2022 seems ridiculous
@@Bushrookie820 What are you talking about having to run steel conduit in houses? Are you referring to the codes where you live? We don't have to run any steel conduit in houses whatsoever in America
@@jamesmcguffey3569 Careful with the absolutes. It's sometimes done in basements.
Got it right, but I never like to tighten down on the 10/32's to push the receptacle into the outlet. Sometimes that can force unintended damage onto wires inside a box. Not really a big concern with this box not being overloaded with wires, but still part of my common practice.
Thanks!
Does Lowes sell those Ideal contact rubber band guards ?
AMZAZON....10 BANDS FOR $9.99
@@djjammindave woof, I'll stick to super 33
As most of the outlets available these days are Tamper Proof which makes it impossible to plug anything into them, might as well call the power company and terminate the account.
Some TR receptacles really are difficult to work with, true.
I spotted the non WR devices. But only after I noticed the GFCI was Hospital Grade, then I thought ”wait a minute...”
Supply chain issue, but you're correct!
Exactly what I spotted , the green dot. Dead giveaway hospital grade 20 amp outlet
Looks like the armor bands took the most amount of time to install...
LOL!
Never seen them in 20 years of being an electrician. Just tape.
@@Sparkeycarp They're fairly new.
@@Sparkeycarp They're up and coming but way too pricey. Two quick wraps do me just fine.
Anybody in this big of a hurry, should definitely have on there tool belt... and to the new guys, Line refers to feed in from the panel... load is power fed after...
Thanks Jason!
Thanks I always get line and load confused. To me load sounds like the power load and line is the power line to others lol
@@matthewp1682 just think of the “load” on ur back. It’s piggybacking on u while expecting u to provide all the power!
@@AZHOLEN1 great analogy, that should help!
Whose fault were the code violations? Did he have a choice of devices or did he have to use what he was given?
Supply chain problem. The show had to go on with what they had.
I am taking the quiz. at 6:20 I don't see the usual test and reset buttons on the GFCI. But I realize my answer was wrong. I would remark too the pros use all these time saving products which most are not available at Home Depot/Lowes. Even if they did they are way too expensive for my tastes.
The requirement to use receptacles for wet location seem overboard, as outlets are well protected from wetness because of the in use cover. I refuse the pay the outrageous prices of all these sell up products. In fact the temper-resistant receptacles are major PITA to use and often I have spend minutes to get a plug to insert.
The GFCI does have test and reset button but they are white, so they blend in with the white receptacle. Yes, tamper resistant receptacles are difficult to use sometimes.
It's not just about directly being splashed or rained on. Outdoor locations can have a lot of humidity and temperature changes that can result in condensation inside the box (and inside the outlet itself). The protective cover won't prevent that. That's why they need to use WR devices as well, because that means they've been designed to be able to handle that level of moisture in the environment around them, too.
Hey, I actually got that one right!😊 Thanks Sparky!
Fantastic!
Receptacles should be WR type. Box KOs need sealant.
Excellent! You're very correct!
Can you please do a video on a set of three way two pole switches tide to a fan /light combo. so as to operate the fan and/or light from two different locations?
So, the only violation that was in his control to correct was labeling the grounded receptacle as GFCI protected (labels come inside the box of the GFCI receptacle).
Also the devices were Not weather resistant type WR...
@@JasonSmith-iz3xj That was a supply issue and not in his control during the competition. From what the video said.
@@michaelbradley7529 True, that wasn't under his control.
I think the video was cut off before he was truly finished. You didn't get to see him re-open the cover and put the label on. Just like Zenith TV's, the quality goes in the cover before the label goes on.
why are americans so good in everything and when it comes to an electrical installation, they are living in 1940
How so?
@@Ramdodge582 I’m guessing installation in other parts of world is as simple as plugging a cord into an outlet. Plus countries are think it’s weird that the US has a 120v standard instead of 220v at each receptacle.
@@TheDestineyAngel the center tap on the transformer is a pretty slick idea
Great videos. I would you wire a light switch to turn off the non GFCI outlet?
Seeing this I had to double check the code, something that I haven’t done in some time as on the commercial side we install a lot of conduit and use the conduit itself as the equipment bonding conductor and rarely pull grounds; it’s been so long that we’ve done it that way I thought maybe the code changed and I didn’t even realize but nope still in 2020 NEC §358.60. For us it’s all a money thing as it saves 1,000s of feet of copper by using the conduit. I like the wet location boxes though, over say 4” JBs for receptacles and switches as they are solid; I’ve always been worried about reachable knockout boxes and kids pushing a knockout in with their little fingers. While the wet location boxes cost more they’re what’s in my basement and garage as they just offer a better level of protection, and with a nice stainless cover they don’t look to shabby either.
As I’ve had to diagnose my fare share of de-energized receptacles only to find out they’re controlled by a GFCI I appreciate the marking and must say it’s one I notice is rarely done. I once saw a bathroom outlet not work because a GFCI was tripped; the GFCI though was located outside under the deck, despite having another GFCI in the bathroom some 6 feet from the first outlet, they wired the newly added outlet off the deck GFCI. May have been for more direct wiring but without labeling it, not that a simple label would have told you which GFCI controls is, would have helped much. One big thing you see in the commercial space that residential could benefit from is labeling and keeping track of additions to help with tracing.
Thanks, great discussion!
So far, I stopped the video before you answer, I see the receptacles are not weather resistant.
Caught that, too. Sparky mentioned 'outside' so often I noticed, though
I'm assuming we cut the video before he could label the receptacle.
Correct!
Yes. and the scene at Hapuna on the Big Island.
If I was there right now I'd be out snorkeling!
I was also told, by men smarter than me, that those receptacles are upside down. In the event of a cord being plugged in only half way, the positive and neutral pins of the plug are open to an accidental short circuit. By installing them with the ground pin on top, it eliminates that possibility.
Upside down receptacles (ground up) is dumb and annoying. There is no code requiring the ground to be up. I'm a licensed contractor in my state and I never put them in upside down (ground up,), I can't stand it. If something falls onto the ground pin (if it is up) the object can still teeter at a 45 degree angle and make contact with the hot and ground simultaneously. Don't put receptacles in upside down, it's dumb and pointless.
Edit: ... And it looks stupid
@@IrrationalBstrd big facts
It is not a code violation though.
If you look at plugs from anything electrical the two prongs are on the top, and you have to twisting the cord to insert it upside down. And a twisted cord wants to unravel, so the cord doesn't lay flat, etc. more likely causing a tripping hazard or getting in the way on the counter. I have never seen a plug short out because something fell on it and crossed the hot and neutral. For something to do that it would have to be horizontal, which if tipping over, now has a better chance of causing a short with the ground up since the angle of ground to hot or neutral is easier to short than hot and neutral in a horizontal position....depending on the angle of tilt. But everyone has a way of doing there plugs. I prefer the regular way over upside down, seems safer to me that way, plus with Arcfaults in place, it doesn't matter.
@@IrrationalBstrd I'd agree the benefits are pretty minimal but if you look at old ungrounded outlets oftentimes you'll see electricians stuck to putting the hot on the left (maybe to match typical plumbing convention?) whereas with a grounded outlet placed ground down that's flipped over to the right. A metal cover plate falling on it is pretty unlikely to make a significant difference ground up vs ground down but one of the most common objects falling onto exposed prongs is a tape measure being run against a wall. That'll never short out if it's ground up. Also, even if you follow ground down convention everywhere else one handy tip is to reverse it for switched outlets to make it more obvious which ones are affected to prevent a useless service call 10 years down the road. The only disadvantage of ground up is that it looks odd to people and flat plugs go with ground down because that's what 99% of outlets are.
Take apart a sample of a “‘weather resistant’’ GFI receptical, and a regular GFI and show us the difference. 30 plus years using GFI’s on industrial sites, and wiring homes, and have never had a problem, with outside GFI’s. What is the meaning behind the code on this device, and why was it brought in to code.
The WR devises are made of a kind of plastic/nylon which is more weather resistant than the regular devises.
Thank You 😉👍🏽⚡️My First Time Sein A Brass Fiting
My pleasure, thanks Bigmo!
The gfci is hospital grade? Red dot on receptical
Are the receptacles Tamper-Resistant and Weather-Resistant?
They are not WR. Don't know about TR.
@ Yes it is, very high quality.
I've never seen a wrap like that, pretty neat!. How long are they supposed to last?
I don't know. they are quite thick so they should last a long time.
I'm and old election when we ran a GFI circuit we had to ground the conduit to the GFI also things have probably changed it created lots of problems.
Interesting!
When Outdoors, can you use the gray plastic conduit into a metal WR gang outlet? Still adding the grounding wire like he did to the box at @1:22
Yes, as long as the metal box/etc are properly bonded to the ground wire (which is required anyway), and the right type of connectors are used to join the conduit to the box, there is nothing wrong with using plastic conduit with metal boxes (or vice-versa).
My back hurt just watching him squat down like that for 5 minutes. Gettin old is a bitch.
I hear that! LOL!
Also not sure if he had a plastic bushing on the connector inside the panel. Could put it on later in the installation but looked like he was shaping the wires already.
I caught the WR fault. I spent the whole video trying to determine if the EMT connector on the box was a set screw type or a WR type. and I'd be back in about 4 years to replace that entire assembly, including the wire, because the screws would have all seized; with nonmetallic conduit and enclosure.addendum: you threw a curveball by showing the terminals on a WR rated GFCI.
Excellent points, thanks!
The EMT connectors on the EMT are compression type. I believe the different color of gold on the compression nut indicates they are weather resistant. I am used to seeing blue for this. If this was commercial I believe you have to use metal boxes and conduit.
Well I learned something. I've never heard of or seen these WR devices, nor have I ever seen one installed by a professional.
They say that any day you learn something new is a good day!
I don't imagine box stores carry them in stock, though our local Walmart does!
@@ethelryan257 Yes, they are a little harder to find.
@@SparkyChannel So are the WR required for indoor wet or damp locations as well? Specifically looking at locations where the receptacle could be expected to be sprayed with water from a hose.
So was this competition participant supplied devices or competition supplied devices?
He was supplied devices but they had supply chain problems.
The load receptacle had its own ground wire attached, so I don't understand the third violation.
the third violation is not marking the grounded receptacle as GFCI protected, such as using the blue sticker seen at 7:57.
Still missing the required No Equipment Ground marking-
"An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected between the grounding type receptacles."
That implies the ground should remain unconnected.
Im not a pro electrician and I knew since the beginning the mistakes. Outdoor receptacles always have to be weatherproof. Even the screws, when we install devices like cameras.
Thanks!
Cool video Bill.
Thanks Aaron!
You’re welcome
Great job brother
Thanks!
Are the bands for code? Never seen them before.
Yes, they are UL listed for their purpose.
I noticed a no aluminum marker on the GFCI.
That refers to no aluminum conductors, copper only.
Yes, good eyes!
That is so weird; I have NEVER EVER in my 30+ years here in the US seen a receptacle marked with WR! NEVER
It's a thing!
Weather resistant? Really never seen those? And TR is tamper resistant
@@roo8618 TR isn't as visibly marked but you can sure tell when you go to use it 🤬 would have to live under a rock to not know WR though.
So in competitions all that technical codes do not apply then?
The NEC code definitely does apply. They had to make a few exceptions for supply chain issues though.
should they be tamper resistant as well? I read nec 2020 406.12 but I'm still not sure about outdoor locations.
Well, NEC 2020's 406.12 (1) talks about dwelling units listed in 210.52. 210.52 (E) specifically mentions outdoor outlets. So, I'd say "yes", they should be tamper resistant as well.
That's what I thought. Thank you for the info saberx08.
I feel stupid for not knowing about those amour bands years ago. When I wired outlets for broadcast trucks in the 90s I always wrapped the outlet terminals with rubber bishop tape. So either that hadn’t been invented yet or I didn’t know about it.
Yes, they are a recent invention.
Non insulated screw drivers.
Thanks!
We'll close our eyes to that one lol 😆
Really not practical using them. Testing with a multimeter does just as good and insulated drivers cost like 15 dollars a bit and they wear out fast. Best to save them for times when you have to touch a live circuit though personally I’d refuse that job, or in a situation where power generation is possible: working on solar panels or any sort of electric motor/generator
I pulled 2 hot, one neutral and one ground wire through flex conduit to make a whip with 2 circuits (2 duplex outlets) on it. Can I still get GFI protection to these outlets/circuits? Or do they each need a dedicated nuetral? GFI recepticals, or GFI breakers?
They will both need a GFI outlet. But if they are somehow on the same breaker then replace the breaker with a GFCI
Separate neutrals are not required on the feeder circuit. If this is just feeding two 120V receptacles (one on each hot leg) then you will need two GFCIs (one for each hot wire). If you will be using the GFCIs to protect other downstream outlets, then they will need to have separate neutrals going from the GFCIs to the downstream outlets (you cannot tie the neutrals from the "load" side of the GFCIs together).
You can also use a single (dual-pole) GFCI breaker in the box instead, but that can be more expensive.
Also was the back plug screw caulked? Nice video
No, the competitors weren't given any caulking.
@@SparkyChannel Supply chain problem or "I forgot"?. I thought this should to be a demo how to do things right.
Code violations: no torque screwdriver used on the receptCles
Not called out by the manufacturer. It may happen some day though.
@@SparkyChannel Bill, Leviton and almost all manufacturers now have torque specs for their receptacles.
@@SparkyChannel maybe it would be useful to do a code video on torque requirements!
@@jragadio Yes, and I adhere to them. Not for everything, though. Fourteen to eighteen INCH-pounds is way less than one might think.
Two comments; didn't see a nylon bushing on the box connector in the panel. Also, since he was supposed to label the GFCI with a GFCI sticker, was he also supposed to label "No Equipment Ground" as well? When reading that section of the Code it is unclear to me.
Thanks, Sparky for another great video!
Why would he label it no equipment ground? There is an EGC (notice all the green ground wires he connected). He just needed to label the receptacle with "GFCI Protected" sticker.
@@illestofdemall13 Hi Kris! That's the way I see it as well.
@@illestofdemall13 Actually you don’t need to label the other receptacle at all. That only applies to receptacles without an equipment ground. It seems like he misinterpreted the code
@@mattolson7037 This is also my take on it. That code section is for replacement of ungrounded receptacles.
Also, a connector bushing is not required for wires smaller than #6 (or is it #6 and smaller?).
Good channel
Thanks, appreciate it!
Weather resistant gfi and outlet
Correct.