Thanks for the video, and your insights. I too worked on motorcycles professionally for many years, and concur with pretty much all of your comments. I too change the oil once, halfway in between the 12,000 km service intervals, without changing the filter. I also have a white TA, with the optional wind deflectors and bear grip footpegs (thrown in with the bike at purchase, but took months to arrive, due to demand apparently) so your bike closely resembles mine. I am a few hundred kms past 20,000 now, here in rural South Australia. I have been running the standard Honda oil, with an eye to any potential issue/warranty, but will add to your references to "a smoother engine" by stating that my engine became smoother, in both vibration and sound, around the 5,000 km mark, so that may not necessarily relate to the oil schedule. It just became 'sweeter' around that distance. I too have a long history (well over 50 years...) of sport bikes (Ducati) and also whinged about the lack of an oil window (which my old 1995 Cagiva Elefant 750 has) as do all my other bikes. Including a 1980 Pantah... The one thing I do differently with my oil changes is remove the bashplate first (mine is a B&B Australian plate) then a quick ride to make sure the oil is freshly moved. Keeping any impurities in suspension being desirable immediately before the change, rather than collecting in the sump 'snout'. But your emphasis on changing the oil whilst freshly heated, and removing the filler before draining, are good tips. The faster flow during draining is worth the effort. I drape a cloth over the filler hole when draining, as I leave it to drain for 10 minutes or so. Plus I lean the bike left and right to remove as much oil as possible. I believe the bike needs to be upright (a spirit level on the side of the tyre a good check) and the dipstick placed in the hole, but not screwed in to check the level. Thanks for the video - it gives a lot of the same tips which I have been giving for many years! Good job. Some well earned praise from an old codger, who started out on British bikes! Which of course is how I became a bike mechanic in the first place... 😊
@patkennedy1 hahah, I could see only British bikes giving your wrenches some workd😅 Can't be over tedious with oil changes, it's the blood of the bike.
Same here, an oil change every 5,000 km regardless if it's a bike or a car, but I also do the oil filters since they're so cheap I see no point in skipping.
@KairyuRider the old oil filter and filter housing retain a quite relevant part of the old oil (around 200 ml in the case of my car, which requires a total of 4,3 L new oil for the change, for ex.; so it is a relevant proportion! tested it myself); why pollute the new oil with the old, bad one? Because everyone knows that, in general, a little bit of bad spoils a bunch of good. So I have to side with @Balsalmo on this one. I mean, since we do talk here about "earlier" than recommended oil change; makes very much sense to also change the oil filter; especially because it's just the price of a coffee for a new filter and those who do the oil change earlier r the ones that love their vehicles, so it just makes sense.
@@HPaulAdrian i agree with you! On my bike its 200ml in the filter+everything above the checkvalve, and the total calacity is 3,1L. So thats about 6,5% "bad" oil. For that 6 euro extra on top of the 45euro my oil costs, i'll do the filter aswell. Plus, fun enough, the filter gets my total above 50euro, and orders from 50euro and up get free shipping where i buy it. So it actually saves me 1,95euro to get a filter lol
In my current job I have access to oil analysis at a very low cost. Im trying motul 20w50 7100, in my 2024 vstrom 800de. but at 5000km its already sheared to a 10w40 when sampled. Now end of season change at 6700km waiting on results. Was hopeful for a 10'000km or one season oil change interval but i dont think motul is going to cut it. Would like to try amzoil 20w50, and castrol power 1 20w50.
@KairyuRider wear metals are low in my sample. Especially for a 5000-10000km odometer reading. I did early and often changes with Suzuki 10w40 synthetic(cheap) But yeah I will try and sorce some of the Castrol oil in Canada if possible. as a former cf moto dealer tech... i wouldn't blame any oil... at all. F that company.
I used the liqui moly full synthetic stuff with their MoS2 additive, for 80k km (now total 100k incl previous owner) on my vfr750f, before i rebuild it for funsies. (And because the countershaft seal failed). I did the oil and filter at 10.000km where the service manuel said 12.000km. I commute on it, and stress it decently on the weekends. Everything was perfect inside. Amazingly perfect. It was super duper clean, still a crosshatch in the cilinders, pistons within spec, crank and rod bearings were not even worn through the first coating! I never really did my valves because the vfr is known to just not wear out its valves, and they were all perfectly at spec. Replaced all bearing shells, piston rings, and the oil pump chain together with all seals and o-rings, lapped the valves, and re-adjusted the valves at 1000km. Still purrs like a kitten. Honda's are something else man, espacially the 3th, 4th and 5th gen VFR's.
Did my oil change 5000km ago, already ordering a new filter and preparing for another change. Thanks for settling my dilemma on whether it's too early to change oil in my CP2 engine 👌 it has been ridden hard lately. Also thanks for the tip, might have to try Castrol next time, Motul does seem to cause a little bit more vibration after around 2000km.
I like to change the oil filter with every oil change. I did the 1st oil / filter change at 1,000 kms, 620 miles. I do this with every street bike I have owned. And similar for an automobile. I think I will be changing it every 4,000 kms (~2,500 miles). I can do it without removing the skidplate.
I'll add my vote to changing the engine oil at slightly lower mileages. It does seem to contribute to the reliability / fuel mileage of a motorcycle to change the oil a little more regularly. ( I do mine annually at about 3000 / 4000 miles.) I think a little maintenance on all parts of the machine is the cheapest "Breakdown Insurance" you can buy.
My dealer (Honda 滋賀 in Kusatsu) told me 10,000km or 1 year changes would be fine because of the large amount of oil, but I'm also of the opinion that 5,000km changes are what I'm going to do. So far, after nearly 10,000km, I have had the dealer change the oil (once after 1,000km break-in; once at the 1-year check (7,500km)) because I have just been lazy. They always put the Honda G1 5w-30 mineral oil in it which is what has been used from new, but I have always put Castrol Power 1 in my other bikes with perfectly satisfactory results. My question is, Power 1 doesn't come in 10w-30, the grade stated in the manual; it is 10w-40. Is that not an issue?
Most of my dealer experience has been in tokyo. So maybe you're in a more "honest" part of the country😅 Depends. Are you treating the bike like a cruiser or a sport bike? What altitude do you ride (I did this change in nagano) Cold winter or hot summer. Castrol works as a good compromise, but ideally, changing when the temps get down to 20⁰c and then again when they get up to 20⁰ in the spring. Or, ride it like a sport bike and always pick what's best for warm weather. If you trust your dealer, stick to them.
@@sattvicvelo3506 500¥ at the gas station. My friend just sent me this👇 yesterday. www.webike.net/sd/25678683/ Though it out with bilirnable garbage no trouble.
Any garage will take the oil and recycle it for you. Better to go to one you use regularly. And don't be draining other fluids into the same tank because they won't accept it unless it is purely engine oil.
Any brand of oil will be fine, as long as it is to spec. The Transalp engine is a fairly highly stressed engine - 90 ps (80 in the US) from a 750 twin is higher than average. It also has a 13.5 compression ratio, which is high (although this height is becoming more common).
Are you sure? I found that has a 11.0:1 compression ratio in owner manual or producer's website. It's low, so you can refuel with even 91 octane petrol. Although apparently the best engine operating culture is at 98 octane.
@rachunkowosc475 Yes, you are right. I can't remember where I saw the 13.? compression ratio, but it's wrong. I apologise. The Honda is about the same as the reliable T7 Yam. Good. The Japs know what they're doing.
Yeah man I'd say change the filter every time as long as you can afford it. Absolutely no reason to leave 200cc (depends on your bike) of old oil with nasty particles in your engine.
I teied different oils from Yamalube, SK ZIC, Castrol and Motul but I have the best experience with Shell Advance Ultra But Yamaha says oil change every 3000km. But I preferred to change it before 2000
@David-m7f3g if the oil is more than 6 months old or has more than 2,000km, then yes, I would change the oil and the filter. Oil wears out and becomes corrosive over time. That's faster when the bike is cold and the oil doesn't move. I don't do winter sleep, but if I would, change the oil the day of your last ride and put at least 10 more km so the fresh oil is cycled through.
i have these 135cc upbore to 150cc, just topset overhauled last 2 weeks. What mileage we talking here for my first oil change after those? Also a quick search, Yamalube are not made by Motul. might explains the vibrations
I follow the manual but change the filter every oil change, since I don’t use original filters. Have never had a problem in hundreds of thousands of kilometers.
Do you realy change the oil without the Filter? In the Filter is the whole Metal and dirt what you put back to the Flow cycle in case. Never heard that to do with a car. On cars people said if you change oil without Filter, it make no sense at all😅
@David-m7f3g cars hold more oil but with a similar fixtures. So cars, with a bigger engine, push more though the filter. So every oil change do the filter. But bike change oil more often. Filters work very well and in this case the oil is also being burnt so changing the dirt oil for none burn oil is the key. And there was nothing bad in the oil, like water, metal or dirt, that I saw in the change. So it's not bad to do the filter, but it's not that major. If I fallowed hondas guidelines and did oil every 10,000km, I'd do a filter too. I'm not saying I'm the all knowing, but I say this as a Yamaha mechanic. A lot of the "hear say" if internet hear say, not necessarily professional experience. Honda also told me no need for a filter every time. They even believe the filter "could" last the 20,000km for 2 oil changes.
@@KairyuRider In the late 70's Moto-Guzzi only recommended changing the oil filter every 4th oil change on my Le Mans2 . There was no clutch or transmission sharing the engine oil . And after the break-in period is complete there should be very little particulate matter in the oil.
@cameronsays with my Yamaha, it was the only thing I changed and everything ran better. But that's just 1 bike and 1 oil change. Not scientific. But we will see how this bike does
I recall having something similar happen, not vibration.. more of a raspiness sound. Went from Castrol Power1 full synthetic to BMWs Advantec pro that most people where recommending. Same weight, but the BMW stuff is API SM, and Castrol is a newer API SN. The noise was very noticeable, to the point to have to stop at an exit and check the bike over because of the strange sound. Eventually I got used to the sound, but next change Castrol is going in. Edit: btw the bike is a R nineT
Switching from Honda's HP4 full synthetic motorcycle oil to Valvoline full synthetic in my XR150L quieted the top end down quite a bit. It's not a super crazy claim to make.
I bought a brand new mt09 this year and I'm dead set on oil changes every 2k miles, with yamalube ofc as long as its in warranty. Too soon oil changes can't hurt. I do ride it spirited.
@jorgediez2081 I don't know what you mean "Strongs and fiability" Yamaha doesn't sell the world raid in japan. This is why I bought honda👇 th-cam.com/video/OYoy4cpDSB0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3rj4qsgUVYZOgcVM
never seen a Yamaha mechanic work on the floor....Proper mechanic works on a bike bench....but what do i know...only been working on bikes for 20 years.....Might be because im not a Yamaha mechanic...
@StephenAdrianVenter-om2qg might be because your not in japan. All dealers here work on the floor. I'm also not at a dealer, I'm at my in-laws house. Sorry they don't own a bike stand for all their cars😅
on honda service manual they say dont screw oil stick to check level ;) keep good work mate!
Thank you. I'll pin you comment. You're a hero of the people
Thanks for the video, and your insights. I too worked on motorcycles professionally for many years, and concur with pretty much all of your comments. I too change the oil once, halfway in between the 12,000 km service intervals, without changing the filter. I also have a white TA, with the optional wind deflectors and bear grip footpegs (thrown in with the bike at purchase, but took months to arrive, due to demand apparently) so your bike closely resembles mine. I am a few hundred kms past 20,000 now, here in rural South Australia.
I have been running the standard Honda oil, with an eye to any potential issue/warranty, but will add to your references to "a smoother engine" by stating that my engine became smoother, in both vibration and sound, around the 5,000 km mark, so that may not necessarily relate to the oil schedule. It just became 'sweeter' around that distance. I too have a long history (well over 50 years...) of sport bikes (Ducati) and also whinged about the lack of an oil window (which my old 1995 Cagiva Elefant 750 has) as do all my other bikes. Including a 1980 Pantah...
The one thing I do differently with my oil changes is remove the bashplate first (mine is a B&B Australian plate) then a quick ride to make sure the oil is freshly moved. Keeping any impurities in suspension being desirable immediately before the change, rather than collecting in the sump 'snout'. But your emphasis on changing the oil whilst freshly heated, and removing the filler before draining, are good tips. The faster flow during draining is worth the effort. I drape a cloth over the filler hole when draining, as I leave it to drain for 10 minutes or so. Plus I lean the bike left and right to remove as much oil as possible. I believe the bike needs to be upright (a spirit level on the side of the tyre a good check) and the dipstick placed in the hole, but not screwed in to check the level.
Thanks for the video - it gives a lot of the same tips which I have been giving for many years! Good job. Some well earned praise from an old codger, who started out on British bikes! Which of course is how I became a bike mechanic in the first place... 😊
@patkennedy1 hahah, I could see only British bikes giving your wrenches some workd😅
Can't be over tedious with oil changes, it's the blood of the bike.
Same here, an oil change every 5,000 km regardless if it's a bike or a car, but I also do the oil filters since they're so cheap I see no point in skipping.
@@Balsalmo I have in the past. But not a massive benefit in my experience with newer bikes.
But can't hurt
@KairyuRider the old oil filter and filter housing retain a quite relevant part of the old oil (around 200 ml in the case of my car, which requires a total of 4,3 L new oil for the change, for ex.; so it is a relevant proportion! tested it myself); why pollute the new oil with the old, bad one? Because everyone knows that, in general, a little bit of bad spoils a bunch of good. So I have to side with @Balsalmo on this one. I mean, since we do talk here about "earlier" than recommended oil change; makes very much sense to also change the oil filter; especially because it's just the price of a coffee for a new filter and those who do the oil change earlier r the ones that love their vehicles, so it just makes sense.
@@HPaulAdrian i agree with you! On my bike its 200ml in the filter+everything above the checkvalve, and the total calacity is 3,1L. So thats about 6,5% "bad" oil. For that 6 euro extra on top of the 45euro my oil costs, i'll do the filter aswell.
Plus, fun enough, the filter gets my total above 50euro, and orders from 50euro and up get free shipping where i buy it. So it actually saves me 1,95euro to get a filter lol
I ride my 125 scooter (no oil fiter) like motogp qualifiying so 500km oil changes.
80K KM later still no problems.
Hey Kairyu, looking forward to more maintenance videos from you. Please keep it up!
@@Soilpt thank you.
Lots if videos still to come
In my current job I have access to oil analysis at a very low cost. Im trying motul 20w50 7100, in my 2024 vstrom 800de. but at 5000km its already sheared to a 10w40 when sampled. Now end of season change at 6700km waiting on results. Was hopeful for a 10'000km or one season oil change interval but i dont think motul is going to cut it.
Would like to try amzoil 20w50, and castrol power 1 20w50.
I've heard bad things about Motul from the KTM guys. They say extended service intervals combined with that oil was a catalyst for cam wear.
@john0270 I'm a fan of Castrol
@KairyuRider wear metals are low in my sample. Especially for a 5000-10000km odometer reading. I did early and often changes with Suzuki 10w40 synthetic(cheap)
But yeah I will try and sorce some of the Castrol oil in Canada if possible.
as a former cf moto dealer tech... i wouldn't blame any oil... at all. F that company.
I used the liqui moly full synthetic stuff with their MoS2 additive, for 80k km (now total 100k incl previous owner) on my vfr750f, before i rebuild it for funsies. (And because the countershaft seal failed). I did the oil and filter at 10.000km where the service manuel said 12.000km. I commute on it, and stress it decently on the weekends.
Everything was perfect inside. Amazingly perfect. It was super duper clean, still a crosshatch in the cilinders, pistons within spec, crank and rod bearings were not even worn through the first coating! I never really did my valves because the vfr is known to just not wear out its valves, and they were all perfectly at spec.
Replaced all bearing shells, piston rings, and the oil pump chain together with all seals and o-rings, lapped the valves, and re-adjusted the valves at 1000km. Still purrs like a kitten.
Honda's are something else man, espacially the 3th, 4th and 5th gen VFR's.
@@acvn-hg9gy happy to know I got the right bike then😁
Oil is cheap. Failure it’s expensive.
Did my oil change 5000km ago, already ordering a new filter and preparing for another change. Thanks for settling my dilemma on whether it's too early to change oil in my CP2 engine 👌 it has been ridden hard lately. Also thanks for the tip, might have to try Castrol next time, Motul does seem to cause a little bit more vibration after around 2000km.
@@ZombiiNightmare glad you found value
I like to change the oil filter with every oil change.
I did the 1st oil / filter change at 1,000 kms, 620 miles. I do this with every street bike I have owned. And similar for an automobile.
I think I will be changing it every 4,000 kms (~2,500 miles).
I can do it without removing the skidplate.
@human1513 what skid plate do you have that let's you do the filter without making a huge mess?
I'll add my vote to changing the engine oil at slightly lower mileages. It does seem to contribute to the reliability / fuel mileage of a motorcycle to change the oil a little more regularly. ( I do mine annually at about 3000 / 4000 miles.) I think a little maintenance on all parts of the machine is the cheapest "Breakdown Insurance" you can buy.
@@speedfinder1 maintenance is cheap, engine rebuilds are not
My dealer (Honda 滋賀 in Kusatsu) told me 10,000km or 1 year changes would be fine because of the large amount of oil, but I'm also of the opinion that 5,000km changes are what I'm going to do. So far, after nearly 10,000km, I have had the dealer change the oil (once after 1,000km break-in; once at the 1-year check (7,500km)) because I have just been lazy. They always put the Honda G1 5w-30 mineral oil in it which is what has been used from new, but I have always put Castrol Power 1 in my other bikes with perfectly satisfactory results. My question is, Power 1 doesn't come in 10w-30, the grade stated in the manual; it is 10w-40. Is that not an issue?
Most of my dealer experience has been in tokyo.
So maybe you're in a more "honest" part of the country😅
Depends. Are you treating the bike like a cruiser or a sport bike?
What altitude do you ride (I did this change in nagano)
Cold winter or hot summer.
Castrol works as a good compromise, but ideally, changing when the temps get down to 20⁰c and then again when they get up to 20⁰ in the spring.
Or, ride it like a sport bike and always pick what's best for warm weather.
If you trust your dealer, stick to them.
Where do you get rid of the oil? I always did it in the past abroad, it seems massive hassle to dispose of it in Japan.
@@sattvicvelo3506 500¥ at the gas station.
My friend just sent me this👇 yesterday.
www.webike.net/sd/25678683/
Though it out with bilirnable garbage no trouble.
Any garage will take the oil and recycle it for you. Better to go to one you use regularly. And don't be draining other fluids into the same tank because they won't accept it unless it is purely engine oil.
My maintenance philosophy: early fluid changes, frequent Italian tuneups. =)
@@GixxerRider1991 😂
Any brand of oil will be fine, as long as it is to spec. The Transalp engine is a fairly highly stressed engine - 90 ps (80 in the US) from a 750 twin is higher than average. It also has a 13.5 compression ratio, which is high (although this height is becoming more common).
Are you sure? I found that has a 11.0:1 compression ratio in owner manual or producer's website. It's low, so you can refuel with even 91 octane petrol. Although apparently the best engine operating culture is at 98 octane.
@rachunkowosc475 Yes, you are right. I can't remember where I saw the 13.? compression ratio, but it's wrong. I apologise. The Honda is about the same as the reliable T7 Yam. Good. The Japs know what they're doing.
@rachunkowosc475 You are right. I apologise, and don't know where I got it from. The Transalp has a similar compression ratio to the Yam T7.
Yeah man I'd say change the filter every time as long as you can afford it. Absolutely no reason to leave 200cc (depends on your bike) of old oil with nasty particles in your engine.
I teied different oils from Yamalube, SK ZIC, Castrol and Motul but I have the best experience with Shell Advance Ultra
But Yamaha says oil change every 3000km. But I preferred to change it before 2000
@GAC8 with Castrol my Yamaha were trouble free every 5k
But sooner beats later
Guys what do you think about changing the oil right before put the Bike in Winter sleep for 4 months. I heard its very good.
@David-m7f3g if the oil is more than 6 months old or has more than 2,000km, then yes, I would change the oil and the filter. Oil wears out and becomes corrosive over time. That's faster when the bike is cold and the oil doesn't move.
I don't do winter sleep, but if I would, change the oil the day of your last ride and put at least 10 more km so the fresh oil is cycled through.
i have these 135cc upbore to 150cc, just topset overhauled last 2 weeks.
What mileage we talking here for my first oil change after those?
Also a quick search, Yamalube are not made by Motul.
might explains the vibrations
@messeduplad no idea
Yamaha containers here at the dealer say motul.
How do you deal with oil draining onto the exhaust when changing the filter?
@jmannUSMC a piece of card board or cleaning its with parts cleaner or brake cleaner very quickly
I follow the manual but change the filter every oil change, since I don’t use original filters. Have never had a problem in hundreds of thousands of kilometers.
Do you realy change the oil without the Filter? In the Filter is the whole Metal and dirt what you put back to the Flow cycle in case. Never heard that to do with a car. On cars people said if you change oil without Filter, it make no sense at all😅
@David-m7f3g cars hold more oil but with a similar fixtures. So cars, with a bigger engine, push more though the filter. So every oil change do the filter. But bike change oil more often.
Filters work very well and in this case the oil is also being burnt so changing the dirt oil for none burn oil is the key. And there was nothing bad in the oil, like water, metal or dirt, that I saw in the change. So it's not bad to do the filter, but it's not that major.
If I fallowed hondas guidelines and did oil every 10,000km, I'd do a filter too.
I'm not saying I'm the all knowing, but I say this as a Yamaha mechanic. A lot of the "hear say" if internet hear say, not necessarily professional experience. Honda also told me no need for a filter every time. They even believe the filter "could" last the 20,000km for 2 oil changes.
@@KairyuRider In the late 70's Moto-Guzzi only recommended changing the oil filter every 4th oil change on my Le Mans2 . There was no clutch or transmission sharing the engine oil . And after the break-in period is complete there should be very little particulate matter in the oil.
See the description for tools and the supplies.
Why? Because You know what's going on in new engine!!! 👍
Isn't Castrol Power 1 semi-syntethic? I'm pretty sure it is. Castrol Power 1 Ultimate/Racing (depends on region) is fully syntethic.
@@angelsouth3803 said fully synthetic on the container
You think changing the oil stopped the engine vibration?
@cameronsays with my Yamaha, it was the only thing I changed and everything ran better.
But that's just 1 bike and 1 oil change. Not scientific.
But we will see how this bike does
I recall having something similar happen, not vibration.. more of a raspiness sound. Went from Castrol Power1 full synthetic to BMWs Advantec pro that most people where recommending. Same weight, but the BMW stuff is API SM, and Castrol is a newer API SN. The noise was very noticeable, to the point to have to stop at an exit and check the bike over because of the strange sound. Eventually I got used to the sound, but next change Castrol is going in. Edit: btw the bike is a R nineT
Switching from Honda's HP4 full synthetic motorcycle oil to Valvoline full synthetic in my XR150L quieted the top end down quite a bit. It's not a super crazy claim to make.
Im getting dizzy from all that head camera movement
I bought a brand new mt09 this year and I'm dead set on oil changes every 2k miles, with yamalube ofc as long as its in warranty. Too soon oil changes can't hurt. I do ride it spirited.
@raso_i if you ride hard, then yes, stick to oem and change early.
Complete overkill and waste of time/money
Every 2k miles is absolute overkill. You will get no benefit from that at all.
You might want to do some Googling on Yamalube, seeing as how you’re very interested in oil performance.
Most mechanics in my country recommends oil change every 2000km even if it's a 125cc bike with oil filters and running full synthetic oils, lmao
@@EzraMKL if you country is a lot of dirt roads and un cleans roads that might make senses.
But it could be, like japan, they want to make more money
Turkey? Lol, I feel you
For everyone he is planning to keep his bike (with integrated engine gearbox) for many years,using 100% synthetic 4T oil is just looking for trouble.
@georgegeorgakopoulos5956 you should probably warn yamaha, they recommend full synthetic for everything.
Filters are cheap--- change the too
Oil changing, selecting is a ritual. It is a kind of cult or most likely a religon act. Follow your preacher. Or his son. Has a song you know.
Mechanic of Yamaha and you buy Honda! Yamaha are more strongs and fiability than Honda or Suzuki? What do you think?❤
@jorgediez2081 I don't know what you mean "Strongs and fiability"
Yamaha doesn't sell the world raid in japan.
This is why I bought honda👇
th-cam.com/video/OYoy4cpDSB0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3rj4qsgUVYZOgcVM
Ive had better experience With máxima and ravenol over any other oil
On my Yamaha XJR i Change the oil three times in the season.
never seen a Yamaha mechanic work on the floor....Proper mechanic works on a bike bench....but what do i know...only been working on bikes for 20 years.....Might be because im not a Yamaha mechanic...
@StephenAdrianVenter-om2qg might be because your not in japan.
All dealers here work on the floor. I'm also not at a dealer, I'm at my in-laws house.
Sorry they don't own a bike stand for all their cars😅