Trying to grow stuff when the sun deliver the most energy is wise to get grow only if you can get enough water. Good thing you can reflect on your success and your failure. While you do increments, please keep on reflecting to keep thing simples.
Nice hat bro. At 18 minute mark you wisely talk about going back to the times of having denser forest. Great idea. Please consider planting your swales out this next planting season. It will go a long way to reaching your goals of denser forests. Plant with species you dont have to care for also helps. Your swales have a moisture profile, you'll be ok with walnut, olive, fig, pommegranite. Cheap plantings.
We will not go far from the farmyard. The existing swales are too far out. That rule we violated with the Miyawaki forest but it was the only place where we could plant such a thing. It is out of sight from the farmyard but at least we drive by when leaving/coming back. Not ideal. If you look at the map that means: only do things inside the farmyard or the adjacent areas in zones A and B. That's also related to the water supply for irrigation. We might be able to store some 700 m3 and that limits what we can do until an area becomes self-sufficient. It's basically about planting a green belt.
...another possibility is to cast seeds of sun-hemp & friends & OTHER seeds INTO the swales themselves & leave 'em alone after covering them with a light layer of the soil from the swale bottom. WITHOUT having to irrigate them. Let them germinate & grow on their own when the right conditions arrive.
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito plant the swales anyway, you'll look back and say I should have planted them. Plant and leave them alone, its one days work,,, its a bit nuts not to do it if you have that swale infrastructure sitting there.
So what you mean is to put them in there, rake them in somehow and then let the rain fill the swale and when the standing water is gone things might germinate? Like that?
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito you could do that in the swale hollow, yes, if you have left over seed you could also seed the swale mound and just walk away,,, no maintenance-no irrigation. But have respect for seed germination time, dont plant late. But what I really mean is it would be a very simple job to plant 150 trees on each swale mound. (Total 300 trees). 50 olive, 50 fig, 25 pomnegranite, 25 walnut. (x2 swales). Then walk away, do nothing- the tap roots will go down. It would be folly to have swale infrastructure and you turn your back on it. It would be folly to be so rigid in your decision to do zone 1 / zone 2,,, and completely ignore the zone 4 swales. The correct permaculture protocol is to plant the outer swales, have them grow for 5 years whilst concerntrating on the inner zones. It just a suggestion, as you did so much work to have them dug, dont waste them. Be fluid in your decisions, its only a days work with 2 or 3 volunteers. ❤
About 1km from our place is a water reservoir. It has 44 ha of surface and is some 20 m deep. Right next to that huge amount of water the soil is bone dry and during summer nothing grows there. That's the situation and I would think we have a "lid" over the water table where nothing can rise or penetrate from above.
Thank you so much. There is a multi-year plan to restore this area and turn it into some sort of forest where Oaks and Paulownias are the big tree species - as an agroforestry system.
You should maybe consider some more drought resistant plants as cover crops like millet, sanfoin etc etc? They all root deep and need way less water and are easier to set up. The overall cover right now is not the best to be completely honest :/ i think there are better options for cover crops in your area than the one you have right now. The area with the leak shows you how it is actually supposed to look like right now and since water is a limited resource in your set up maybe a less demanding crop would be better as initial planting. Just my 2 cents :)
Yes, of course. Very early one. Even was in contact with Yeomans to buy one. Not helpful when the "soil" is mostly sand. It is not hard pan what we have like elsewhere. It's sand and minerals and very little organic material in combination with several months without rain.
I agree on suggesting to straighten the cypress trees. If they are young and in a straight line, you can use two poles and a rope to form a horizontal anchoring point to tie them to up straight. That is less materials than staking up each one. If in a crooked row or high wind area, need to do each one. Yours may be too big for a single line. With you watering they will grow green mass fast and probably bend over more unless straightened.
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito Understood. I enjoy your channel. I have 19 acres, two 1/4 acre ponds and a tree nursery. Tree stewardship is one of the reasons I own my property. In my climate zone 9B, I use Red Cedar in the fashion you are utilizing the Cypress. In my area there is deer pressure and I am forced to stake and pen all of my trees until they are about 8 years old. I enjoy seeing your challenges and improvements. Thanks for your work!
Hey, to counter the compact soil in the deep, maybe you could use an earth drilling rig (Erdbohrer) for the plantation of bigger trees. The excavated soil could then be mixed with compost or Biochar and then used to cover up the trees roots? I am aware that that will not work for the Sunhemp plantations, but it could have helped with the Cyprus trees? Anyway, keep up the good work, i really enjoy watching every single Video.
great installations ! Do you use clear water pumps or waste-water pumps (which can handle sand and clay parts) ? Do You have termites or similar ants around, that nibble on the planed boxes ?
No but I have read that any mechanical solution will not last as the source of the problem does not go away. Soil is supposed to be full of organic material but concrete is not. So ...
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito Curiosity made me look a little deeper and came across a German company called VOGT Baugeräte GmbH, who are in the soil decompaction business. Their kit looks like single man operation. Seems expensive but I have seen other less professional, home-made setups.
@@Marpleman Soil is a living thing. Compaction is just a result that happens when things are out of balance. It's a symptom and not the cause of the sickness.
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito Sure, I understand the soil is 'alive' and you have spoken about having compaction in places. Just as you are kick-starting areas using water, I expect you can also kick-start the soil with decompaction techniques. Biochar and other material injection was mentioned in some of the Vogt videos I saw.
![[Part 1] รักมาไม่ทันตั้งตัว❤ หนุ่มสาวโสดถูกจับมาแต่งงานกันกะทันหัน แถมเธอยังเป็นหัวหน้าของเขา?!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y2pOOMkuFI0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you again, again, for your good work.
Trying to grow stuff when the sun deliver the most energy is wise to get grow only if you can get enough water.
Good thing you can reflect on your success and your failure.
While you do increments, please keep on reflecting to keep thing simples.
True and true. We all learn from our failures. It's mostly the only way.
Nice hat bro. At 18 minute mark you wisely talk about going back to the times of having denser forest. Great idea.
Please consider planting your swales out this next planting season. It will go a long way to reaching your goals of denser forests. Plant with species you dont have to care for also helps. Your swales have a moisture profile, you'll be ok with walnut, olive, fig, pommegranite. Cheap plantings.
We will not go far from the farmyard. The existing swales are too far out. That rule we violated with the Miyawaki forest but it was the only place where we could plant such a thing. It is out of sight from the farmyard but at least we drive by when leaving/coming back. Not ideal.
If you look at the map that means: only do things inside the farmyard or the adjacent areas in zones A and B. That's also related to the water supply for irrigation. We might be able to store some 700 m3 and that limits what we can do until an area becomes self-sufficient. It's basically about planting a green belt.
...another possibility is to cast seeds of sun-hemp & friends & OTHER seeds INTO the swales themselves & leave 'em alone after covering them with a light layer of the soil from the swale bottom. WITHOUT having to irrigate them. Let them germinate & grow on their own when the right conditions arrive.
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito plant the swales anyway, you'll look back and say I should have planted them. Plant and leave them alone, its one days work,,, its a bit nuts not to do it if you have that swale infrastructure sitting there.
So what you mean is to put them in there, rake them in somehow and then let the rain fill the swale and when the standing water is gone things might germinate? Like that?
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito you could do that in the swale hollow, yes, if you have left over seed you could also seed the swale mound and just walk away,,, no maintenance-no irrigation. But have respect for seed germination time, dont plant late.
But what I really mean is it would be a very simple job to plant 150 trees on each swale mound. (Total 300 trees). 50 olive, 50 fig, 25 pomnegranite, 25 walnut. (x2 swales). Then walk away, do nothing- the tap roots will go down.
It would be folly to have swale infrastructure and you turn your back on it.
It would be folly to be so rigid in your decision to do zone 1 / zone 2,,, and completely ignore the zone 4 swales. The correct permaculture protocol is to plant the outer swales, have them grow for 5 years whilst concerntrating on the inner zones.
It just a suggestion, as you did so much work to have them dug, dont waste them. Be fluid in your decisions, its only a days work with 2 or 3 volunteers. ❤
I like the idea of the pond expansion! 😊
I hope it will also help you to rise the water table closer to the surface 🤞🏽
About 1km from our place is a water reservoir. It has 44 ha of surface and is some 20 m deep. Right next to that huge amount of water the soil is bone dry and during summer nothing grows there. That's the situation and I would think we have a "lid" over the water table where nothing can rise or penetrate from above.
we need more people like you. sun chokes are a good crop as well, i hope you will look into it. love your videos.
Thank you so much. There is a multi-year plan to restore this area and turn it into some sort of forest where Oaks and Paulownias are the big tree species - as an agroforestry system.
You should maybe consider some more drought resistant plants as cover crops like millet, sanfoin etc etc? They all root deep and need way less water and are easier to set up. The overall cover right now is not the best to be completely honest :/ i think there are better options for cover crops in your area than the one you have right now. The area with the leak shows you how it is actually supposed to look like right now and since water is a limited resource in your set up maybe a less demanding crop would be better as initial planting.
Just my 2 cents :)
Thanks for the good thought. Yes, that's a worthwhile consideration
...THOSE seeds could be cast into the swales, covered up with a light layer of soil, and then left alone.
there is also waterproof plywood we use in nautic industry, and also coat them with fiberglass
That's where I got the idea from. I follow a few boat people ;-)
I suggest you fix those cypress trees straight, it's really hard to do later on if they start to grow crooked/leaning.
🔥
Great progress. Have you ever thought about using a “Key Line Plough” to break up the hard pan, and increase your water adsorption?
Yes, of course. Very early one. Even was in contact with Yeomans to buy one. Not helpful when the "soil" is mostly sand. It is not hard pan what we have like elsewhere. It's sand and minerals and very little organic material in combination with several months without rain.
I like your hat 😃
Colombian "Sombrero vueltiao": en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sombrero_vueltiao
I agree on suggesting to straighten the cypress trees. If they are young and in a straight line, you can use two poles and a rope to form a horizontal anchoring point to tie them to up straight. That is less materials than staking up each one. If in a crooked row or high wind area, need to do each one. Yours may be too big for a single line. With you watering they will grow green mass fast and probably bend over more unless straightened.
There are 5 that have an issue. It's because the soil is loose and so they need some help. We are trying to fix that.
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito Understood. I enjoy your channel. I have 19 acres, two 1/4 acre ponds and a tree nursery. Tree stewardship is one of the reasons I own my property. In my climate zone 9B, I use Red Cedar in the fashion you are utilizing the Cypress. In my area there is deer pressure and I am forced to stake and pen all of my trees until they are about 8 years old. I enjoy seeing your challenges and improvements. Thanks for your work!
Hey, to counter the compact soil in the deep, maybe you could use an earth drilling rig (Erdbohrer) for the plantation of bigger trees. The excavated soil could then be mixed with compost or Biochar and then used to cover up the trees roots?
I am aware that that will not work for the Sunhemp plantations, but it could have helped with the Cyprus trees?
Anyway, keep up the good work, i really enjoy watching every single Video.
We loosened it up with the excavator and then used the drill to make the holes for the Cypress trees.
great installations ! Do you use clear water pumps or waste-water pumps (which can handle sand and clay parts) ? Do You have termites or similar ants around, that nibble on the planed boxes ?
No termites here. The pumps are either regular water pumps for clear water or made to be submerged in a pond/well
I have heard of using high pressure air to fracture compacted hard pan. I don't know if this might be practical or economic. Have you heard of this?
No but I have read that any mechanical solution will not last as the source of the problem does not go away. Soil is supposed to be full of organic material but concrete is not. So ...
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito Curiosity made me look a little deeper and came across a German company called VOGT Baugeräte GmbH, who are in the soil decompaction business. Their kit looks like single man operation. Seems expensive but I have seen other less professional, home-made setups.
@@Marpleman Soil is a living thing. Compaction is just a result that happens when things are out of balance. It's a symptom and not the cause of the sickness.
@@ProjectGranjaCaimito Sure, I understand the soil is 'alive' and you have spoken about having compaction in places. Just as you are kick-starting areas using water, I expect you can also kick-start the soil with decompaction techniques. Biochar and other material injection was mentioned in some of the Vogt videos I saw.