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@@pro-powderltd.8920 The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches. Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: th-cam.com/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/w-d-xo.html
I was going to buy an expensive guide system because my bandsaw sucked more than my extractor. After seeing your video I went to my local bearing shop and bought 6 bearings to replace the ones I had in my guides. Adjusted them properly and low and behold, it works like a new one. All up $30 plus an hour. Thanks James.
I have a jet 18” with ball bearings. Change all bearings when they get sticky. I take the table off to adjust the bottom guides. Try not to change blades too 😮often.
My older-than-my-grampaw Craftsman 14" was drifting so badly, I almost scrapped it. Changed the steel guide blocks to Carter bearing guides, then put a new blade on it. Now, it cuts like a dream!! Actually my favorite tool in the shop, now. Never would have guessed they could make THAT much difference...!
I absolutely LOVE LOVE LOVE my Carter guides. Look o TH-cam for videos from Alex Snodgrass on the installation of these guides, as well as how to properly tune up your band saw. He usually covers both topics in one video. I installed them on my 30+ year old Jet band saw, and followed his tune up guide, and my saw runs like it's brand new.
Great info Mr. Nubs! I would suggest to those who want better bearings. Take your old ones off and go to a Timken dealer or your local bearing house (most cities have them to support manufacturing) and they will get you a good set of sealed bearings. Not shielded only but sealed on both sides.
Hi there I have been watching your videos & absolutely love them I am a guy with a shed full of tools & thoroughly enjoy using them even more with your help & encouragement keep up the great work regards Age from Devon UK
I recently purchased a 14" bandsaw secondhand, 30 year old machine. I didn't think I'd be able to get a bandsaw like this, so thanks for giving me the language for the guides! Thought the only thing wrong was that the tires needed replacing but after taking her appart found that a prong to the bottom guide block had snapped off the casting. I was considering just upgrading the entire guide system, but after the video, maybe all I need is to slap on new bearings and, ofcourse, get a replacement guide block prong.
As I may have previously posted, I was in the market for a bandsaw when I saw this video and bought an ambassador the next time it was on sale. I have the smaller 14" model, so it's possible I will upgrade in the future, but based on my experience with the ambassador, it will most certainly be another Harvey.
I had never heard of Harvey brand equipment, but I am really glad I haven't gotten a new bandsaw yet, this saw looks like exactly what I need, thank you!!!
My 16 year old daughters do resaw from home and make a killing and do pretty large production. They use carbide blades and haven't had to change or sharpen on either of the 3 saws in 18 months so far and for blocks they use a composite material that is from a structure on a US fighter jet that my step father brought home a large block of that was waste. Running a FLIR on the blade it runs much cooler than cool blocks is almost dead silent and the stuff machines great. I'm not sure what's in it but I know there is carbon fiber and kevlar amongst other things. I would be worried about fumes if they didn't have a super well ventilated shop. But the stuff is a miracle product I'm just not sure it's all that readily available ;)
I am a sculptor and see the need for a bands saw for a large variety of projects, with materials from steel to perspex, i am looking at used saws. it might be outside the breif of wood work yet I am curoius on advice about used saws and managing different wood and materials, and yes ill look at your teeth guide :) thanks from Australia
Trying to decide on which type of bandsaw I need. Have an old but very well cared for Delta table saw I need to sell before I make a purchase. Good article on guides.
Thank you this was the best information anywhere on blade guides and has helped me make a much more informed choice. I am a classical guitar maker and I am looking for a small benchtop machine to cut literally 2mm x 40 cm straight strips from veneer logs ....I was prioritising bearing guides in my selection process....but it seems thats not the issue for my precise thin straight cuts 🙂
I used to have a cheap bandsaw that came with bearing guides. I thought it was too good to be true, and it was. That saw was nothing but frustration and blades seems to break early even though it had 14 inch wheels. When I tried to resaw with it, the bearing guide exploded on me, with ball bearings raining all over the place. I had to get them replaced with a high quality bearing. Then the "rack and pinion" guard adjustment was stuck, completely, so much so I was unable to raise or lower them at all. The guide, guard, and the entire mechanism is a one piece aluminum extrusion that made blade change very difficult. I ended up ripping out the entire rack and pinion system (very hard to do, everything fits with such tight tolerance, and this is why they got stuck). I was glad to get rid of the saw after I had bought a 26" bandsaw.
I have a Startrite 24" 10 speed bandsaw - the big brother of the one used by This Old Tony. I use it on metals and wood. It has solid cast iron blocks with a slot in them for the blade. The accuracy is incredible. I can cut steel to within a tenth - that is milling machine accuracy out of a bandsaw. Love it. Old British iron at it's best.
How timely. I got my very first bandsaw literally two days ago. I've enjoyed it very much so far but have, as you brought up, experienced mild to moderate frustration at getting a bearing just so and then the act of tightening throwing it out of alignment. I purchased a Wen 10" bandsaw and am saving to purchase a Jet. Videos like this one that give insight toward setting everything up are infinitely helpful. Have been enjoying your content since I started my attempt at woodworking last year and am glad to see you still posting relevant videos to help those of us who are new to the skill. I still enjoy working on my Roubo style workbench that I constructed according to your specifications and get comments on how robust and sturdy it is. Thanks for being awesome.
Congrats on your new bandsaw! Look up Alex Snodgrass bandsaw clinic in YT. It's by far the best tut on bandsaw setup and adjustment. Good luck and safe cutting! Mike
@@michedmck i concur. Pay no attention to anyone else telling you how to setup a bandsaw but Alex. His tutorial years ago changed my thinking on just what a bandsaw can be used for because of how accurate mine was after i followed his advice...
Well organized and informative overview. Of course. BEli eve it or not, my trusty old Delta is still ticking along with the steel guides it came with 35 years ago. (The original tires are still good, too.) I might try something else, someday.
I hope it continues to work well for you. One of my 20 year old tires on my Delta exploded the other day! It had gotten brittle and I had shards all over the place. Very exciting in a not good way. Fortunately I smacked the off button immediately and was cutting a scrap to test for drift. Replacing the tires was easy and quick (thanks to TH-cam). Proper regular maintenance is a good idea. I should have done it early. Today I am going to replace the drive belt.
Thanks Mr. Nubbs. Is there a reputable site you would recommend we can use when comparing features? I try to take all of your helpful tips into consideration when buying tools, but often find myself digging around multiple websites to make an educated decision.
I have used Carter and Sons bandsaw guides, The quality and customer support if you need them is second to none. I also use one of their steady rests on my lathe and again the quality and support if needed are second to none. This my preference for the type of work I do.
I have an old Delta Rockwell band saw. What blade guide would be the best for this saw? How much height of cut do you lose by adding the guide? Thanks for your information. I am new to woodworking and really appreciate your videos.
Another great video. I have European style guides on my 14", big round flat pieces of plastic and have found a suitable replacement yet. Might just have to get a new bandsaw.
Brett Kleidon me too. The round discs, called galette here in France, are a pain. Thought about getting custom bb guides from Carter but they are too expensive.
Benefiting from many TH-cam videos tutorials on bandsaw guides, I have summarised the two basic requirements for blade guides: providing the best support to the blade and minimising the fiction. These two requirements sometimes are a trade of.... Have anyone thought of changing their metal bearing guide to using ceramic bearings. The rear bearing also should have the orientation of a thrust bearing so the blade has more support at the back. As the bearings are moving with self lubricating body in contact with the blade, this seems to provide the maximum support and minimum fiction. I bought a set of cheap after market metal bearing guide and tried it, it seems to work.
Hi - thanks for this very useful video. I recently bought an old craftsman 12 in that seems to be in decent shape. How do I know if the guide blocks are steel blocks or cool blocks? Are cool blocks attracted by a magnet?
Stopped by Harvey woodworking last week and inspected their bandsaw. What a nice machine and I love the guides! I’m wondering if there is any way to attach Harvey guides to my Laguna 14BX. I’m going back up the their facility after the holidays to pick up my new table saw and I’ll take a harder look at how they mount their guides. Merry Christmas Stumpy!
Fit an finish of what you are retro fitting to and the age of your saw also has to be taken into account. I have an older Grizzly 14” and even though there are excellent bearing guides on the market many don’t fit my model. I bought a retrofit kit from Grizzly but the fit was so poor that the bearings fixture would never sit perpendicular to the blade causing the blade to track off the wheel. Went back to cool blocks and no problems. When they wear I just touch them up on my disc sander.
Great Video as ever! I'm new to band sawing and picked up a used Grizzly G0457 for $500. I had to clean it up and get rid of some rust but it looks good now. I've watched several videos and have learned a lot. My question is: A friend brought me a 2 1/4" thick piece of white oak. He wants it ripped in to 3/16" strips for a project he has. I bought new blades before the project and proceeded to try and rip them for him. The piece is about 2' long. All goes well for about the first 6" of the cut and then the cut starts getting real wavy no matter how slow I go. It's a 3/4" blade at 3 or 4 teeth per inch. After 2 attempts a stopped cutting not wanting to waste his material. Any clue as to the cause? Thanks for any tips.
Hi, good info in this video, thanks. My bandsaw has what looks like brass guide blocks. From my engineering experience I know that brass rubbing on steel is better than steel on steel. Have you heard of brass blocks being used? Any comments on them?
When making a DYI inverted JIGSAW insert, what size bearing sleeve should be used (over a 5/16 bolt ). To go into a thrust bearing ? Do you have preference on bearing brand for this type project?! Great video thanks Jack in Idaho
Band saw dust collection is about lots and lots of airflow. The Harvey saws have two 4-inch dust collection ports on the saw for that purpose. And they perform better than any of my other saws. But like a miter saw and even a table saw, a band saw is a tough tool to collect dust from because of how the blade moves. No saw has perfect dust collection.
I have a 9” Ryobi, samall one car garage shop. My 1/2” 24th I blade just left burn marks on the wood I cut, not sure if it was because of a dull blade or was I putting too much pressure on pushing the wood through the cut.
Great video as always... mate, looking for an opinion and I won’t hold it to you. I’m about to make the jump to a ‘real’ bandsaw. I had narrowed the field down to 2 until i saw this video and you mentioned the Harvey bandsaw. For whatever reason i can’t find many videos on the Harvey bandsaws. Anyway, my shortlist up until this video was the Rikon 10-326, laguna 14bx. I’ve found i can purchase the Harvey Hw614e in Australia. What would you recommend for an extremely amateur bandsaw user out of those 3. I don’t do wood turning, primarily it will be resaw and detail work. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Keep up the great videos.
Pretty much any bandsaw can cut a curve. Resawing requires more size, power and quality. I own the Rikon you refer to, and it's not a bad saw. It's just not nearly as nice as a higher-end saw like the Harvey. The Harvey guides are so much easier to adjust, it has more power and a heavier build. I stopped using the Rikon the day I got my Harvey. As for the Laguna, I never tried it so I can't comment on that one. Here's a review of the Harvey C-14: th-cam.com/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/w-d-xo.html
I have a 18" Laguna and the guide adjustments are jut horrible. I bought the Carter guides for it and found they are just marginal better. I ended up using Carters on top and went back to originals on the bottom. I hate that saw and as a result would not buy anything Laguna anymore. Did I mention the table adjustment? I don't even want to go there. Good vid, Lee
So, how do you know if you got good ball-bearing guides or not? If you were buying them separately, you'd expect to pay more for good ones, but what about when they come with the saw? They don't break down the invoice for all the individual pieces, and I haven't seen any yet that offer a choice of what guides to use.
Stumpy! I replaced the worn out bearings on my Delta saw when I bought it used. The hardware store bearings were about $11 each, so i replaced them with some skateboard bearings which were the same size. Unfortunately they are worn out already and it's not been 6 months yet. Do you have a good source for quality bearings that dont break the wallet?
I do both wood working as well as metal working (metal lathe and milling machine). My Wilton 14" band saw has a geared as well as belt reduction setup so can go from around 50 sifm to 3200....this lets me cut wood as normal but also aluminum and steel in thicker pieces...1" - 2". That saw came with Cool blocks on side and ball bearing on rear top and bottom. Never had any problems with those materials or breaking blades or premature wear. Also has a 12" resaw capacity. My other small bandsaw used only for woodworking has ball bearings and did need to replace them once as they wore out....but I am wondering if the cool stop would be the best when dealing with cutting metals like i do...no problems thus far and accuracy is good for resaw and drift not an issue. I suspect cutting metal might be rougher on ball bearing gjuides but no evidence one way or the other. I do know that you need high quality double sealed ZZ rated bearings.
I have a 28-200 from Rockwell and I did a bering upgrade but the thing i've bought dosent fit well what should I buy then if I do a lot of resaw ? My saw was extended to 14 inch as well.
I use an 1941 Craftsman 12" Band Saw. It works very well especially after replacing the original Spring! But the guides are round not square. any ideas of how to make round guides out of newer material? The guides I have are copper. Thanks for your helpful videos.
Thanks for videos especially for wana be wood crafts guy like me? Just picked up a old 1950's Delta 10" band saw for pretty much nothing and wondering if it's worth the $25.00 I spent on it?
One more comment on the guide bar and post on my 14” Grizzly bandsaw, the best roller bearings on the market do not improve the cut if the bar and post are not secure. The bearing assembly on my saw is secured to the post with one (1) set screw.
How do you like your Harvey bandsaw? I have the Harvey table saw with the TiN table and like it very much but am leaning to towards the Laguna 14/12 bandsaw. Your thoughts would be appreciated! Merry Christmas!
I own both the Harvery C-14 and the HW615. I love them both for different reasons. The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches. Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: th-cam.com/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/w-d-xo.html The HW615 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-alpha-hw615-15-band-saw) is a beast of a saw. It has all the things I like about the smaller C-14 (3HP, 14" re-saw capacity, quick tension release, foot brake, dual dust collection ports), but it is even more robust. Everything about it screams quality, in my opinion. I have tensioned a 1-1/4" blade on it (the manual recommends 1" max), which puts an enormous strain on a saw's frame. But this thing barely flinches. The fence is the nicest I have ever seen on a band saw. The table is extra large and heavy (I have the tin-coated table, which resists rust). If I had to say something negative, the guides are a little more fiddly to adjust on the HW614 than they are on the C-14, but still nicer than most toolless guides on the market, and very heavy duty.
Those who criticise 'chinese' tools ought to get to know Harvey Machines and their tools. Their band saws and table saws are best in class. Wish I could afford them - very jealous of your TWO Harveys James.
Hello and thank you for your time. I am considering to upgrade to Harvey C14 band saw. Do you have any experience with it? I like the brand. Bought table saw from them and it’s a beauty to work with. Would really appreciate your input. Thanks
could wood and tar build up on the the bearings warp the blade front to back. my blade came off not broken but warped the blade front to back making the blade useless and un fixable
If you are going to upgrade bearings go for properly sealed bearings ( 2 RS in the designation) and go fora higher quality version - the tolerances are tighter and they run better. If you can buy stainless steel versions so much the better.
The rear guide behind the blade should stop the blade from flexing backward. It should be set about the thickness of a piece of paper behind the blade when you are not cutting. As for blade tension, I raise my guides all the way up and tighten the blade until I can only push it about 1/4-inch to the side (not back) with reasonable pressure from my finger.
I'm currently looking into getting a new saw to replace my old 16in walker turner. I like my current saw but it is way to finicky. I'm looking to get a 14in saw mainly for resawing. Any recommendations? I've been eyeing the laguna 1412 and the rikon 10 326. But their are so many options and I'm struggling to find non bias opinions on TH-cam. Thanks!
Nice vid. Thanks. 7:07 My saw has the similar guide. I don’t understand why the only ball bearing behind guiding the back of the blade is fitted that way? Strange! That’s not the way a ball bearing intended to work. Do you see what I mean?
@@maxwang2537 It's really not the best way, but I don't think that actually matters much in this case. You just need something that can turn when catching the back edge of the blade. It has to be adjustable no matter which way the bearing is facing. Although I assume you would get slightly faster bearing wear pushing from the side. It's probably turned sideways more because of it being easier/cheaper to manufacture, than anything else.
Could you comment on the guide support. I purchased Carter guides, bearings, which did not help due to the shaky guide support(s). Would have paid extra $ for an upgrade but informed not available for Grizzly brand bandsaw.
![⚡[DIY] Making a jig for sawing logs /If you do some woodworking, you should also cut logs /HOMEMADE✅](/img/n.gif)
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Hey Stumpy, if you had to choose only 1 of the bandsaws in your shop to keep which one would it be? I'm buying a saw and on trying to make a decision.
@@pro-powderltd.8920 HARVEY
He asked Stumpy
@@pro-powderltd.8920 The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches.
Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: th-cam.com/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/w-d-xo.html
@@steveg2509 That's right. Just trying to help.
Thanks Stumpy. I know I can always count on you for straight-shooting, no BS advice.
Would love to see a tutorial on proper tensioning of bandsaw blades.
Thank you for being a consistent source of useful information, regardless of the woodworking topic.
I was going to buy an expensive guide system because my bandsaw sucked more than my extractor. After seeing your video I went to my local bearing shop and bought 6 bearings to replace the ones I had in my guides. Adjusted them properly and low and behold, it works like a new one. All up $30 plus an hour. Thanks James.
I have a jet 18” with ball bearings. Change all bearings when they get sticky. I take the table off to adjust the bottom guides. Try not to change blades too 😮often.
Thanks for your thorough explanation of guides. You are good at explaining your subjects and making it easy to understand. Great job!
My older-than-my-grampaw Craftsman 14" was drifting so badly, I almost scrapped it. Changed the steel guide blocks to Carter bearing guides, then put a new blade on it.
Now, it cuts like a dream!! Actually my favorite tool in the shop, now. Never would have guessed they could make THAT much difference...!
I appreciate your academic approach. I keep coming back to your tutorials because they're full of great info that seems unbiased and well thought out.
You sold me Stumpy. Just pulled the trigger on the Harvey…using your link of course. Thank you for all the great videos over the years. 👍🏼
As usual this is a clear, well paced, concise but info-packed presentation.
I absolutely LOVE LOVE LOVE my Carter guides. Look o TH-cam for videos from Alex Snodgrass on the installation of these guides, as well as how to properly tune up your band saw. He usually covers both topics in one video. I installed them on my 30+ year old Jet band saw, and followed his tune up guide, and my saw runs like it's brand new.
Great info Mr. Nubs! I would suggest to those who want better bearings. Take your old ones off and go to a Timken dealer or your local bearing house (most cities have them to support manufacturing) and they will get you a good set of sealed bearings. Not shielded only but sealed on both sides.
THanks, this was very helpful for me and my crappy bandsaw!! it explains some of my issues!
Appreciate your straight forward presentation.
Hi there I have been watching your videos & absolutely love them I am a guy with a shed full of tools & thoroughly enjoy using them even more with your help & encouragement keep up the great work regards Age from Devon UK
Good job explaining the difference in band saw guides. I have been enlightened. Thanks
Thank you for your time and for sharing, I greatly appreciate your knowledge and experience.
Great info as usual Stumpy, thanks so much for all your efforts. Certainly appreciate you doing the research and letting us know.
I bought an 18” Harvey about this time last year (in Oz) gotta say, it’s a beautiful machine
I recently purchased a 14" bandsaw secondhand, 30 year old machine. I didn't think I'd be able to get a bandsaw like this, so thanks for giving me the language for the guides!
Thought the only thing wrong was that the tires needed replacing but after taking her appart found that a prong to the bottom guide block had snapped off the casting. I was considering just upgrading the entire guide system, but after the video, maybe all I need is to slap on new bearings and, ofcourse, get a replacement guide block prong.
As I may have previously posted, I was in the market for a bandsaw when I saw this video and bought an ambassador the next time it was on sale. I have the smaller 14" model, so it's possible I will upgrade in the future, but based on my experience with the ambassador, it will most certainly be another Harvey.
I had never heard of Harvey brand equipment, but I am really glad I haven't gotten a new bandsaw yet, this saw looks like exactly what I need, thank you!!!
My 16 year old daughters do resaw from home and make a killing and do pretty large production. They use carbide blades and haven't had to change or sharpen on either of the 3 saws in 18 months so far and for blocks they use a composite material that is from a structure on a US fighter jet that my step father brought home a large block of that was waste. Running a FLIR on the blade it runs much cooler than cool blocks is almost dead silent and the stuff machines great. I'm not sure what's in it but I know there is carbon fiber and kevlar amongst other things. I would be worried about fumes if they didn't have a super well ventilated shop. But the stuff is a miracle product I'm just not sure it's all that readily available ;)
a very useful and to the point video, thank you.
I am a sculptor and see the need for a bands saw for a large variety of projects, with materials from steel to perspex, i am looking at used saws. it might be outside the breif of wood work yet I am curoius on advice about used saws and managing different wood and materials, and yes ill look at your teeth guide :) thanks from Australia
Trying to decide on which type of bandsaw I need. Have an old but very well cared for Delta table saw I need to sell before I make a purchase. Good article on guides.
Thank you this was the best information anywhere on blade guides and has helped me make a much more informed choice. I am a classical guitar maker and I am looking for a small benchtop machine to cut literally 2mm x 40 cm straight strips from veneer logs ....I was prioritising bearing guides in my selection process....but it seems thats not the issue for my precise thin straight cuts 🙂
I used to have a cheap bandsaw that came with bearing guides. I thought it was too good to be true, and it was. That saw was nothing but frustration and blades seems to break early even though it had 14 inch wheels. When I tried to resaw with it, the bearing guide exploded on me, with ball bearings raining all over the place. I had to get them replaced with a high quality bearing. Then the "rack and pinion" guard adjustment was stuck, completely, so much so I was unable to raise or lower them at all. The guide, guard, and the entire mechanism is a one piece aluminum extrusion that made blade change very difficult. I ended up ripping out the entire rack and pinion system (very hard to do, everything fits with such tight tolerance, and this is why they got stuck).
I was glad to get rid of the saw after I had bought a 26" bandsaw.
Great information. Well presented. Thank you.
great video thank you for the information. because I'm buying a bandsaw this week God bless your family and friends.
Check out Harvey's 14-inch saw.
@@StumpyNubs
Ok I will thank you so much GODBLESS EVERYONE..🤗👍👍👍
I just ordered the jet 14sfx. What are your thoughts on it?
Very nice guide for guides. Sadly, I have a small shop and no room - yet - for a bandsaw. This video will come in handy when that day arrives.
Very cool explanation. Now to weigh my options!
I have a Startrite 24" 10 speed bandsaw - the big brother of the one used by This Old Tony. I use it on metals and wood. It has solid cast iron blocks with a slot in them for the blade.
The accuracy is incredible. I can cut steel to within a tenth - that is milling machine accuracy out of a bandsaw. Love it. Old British iron at it's best.
How timely. I got my very first bandsaw literally two days ago. I've enjoyed it very much so far but have, as you brought up, experienced mild to moderate frustration at getting a bearing just so and then the act of tightening throwing it out of alignment. I purchased a Wen 10" bandsaw and am saving to purchase a Jet. Videos like this one that give insight toward setting everything up are infinitely helpful. Have been enjoying your content since I started my attempt at woodworking last year and am glad to see you still posting relevant videos to help those of us who are new to the skill. I still enjoy working on my Roubo style workbench that I constructed according to your specifications and get comments on how robust and sturdy it is. Thanks for being awesome.
Congrats on your new bandsaw! Look up Alex Snodgrass bandsaw clinic in YT. It's by far the best tut on bandsaw setup and adjustment. Good luck and safe cutting! Mike
@@michedmck i concur. Pay no attention to anyone else telling you how to setup a bandsaw but Alex. His tutorial years ago changed my thinking on just what a bandsaw can be used for because of how accurate mine was after i followed his advice...
Dude, Alex Snodgrass is the ultimate! Check out his video on Bandsaw Life channel. Best way to set up a saw for sure!
Really looking forward to your bandsaw comparison. Especially interested in learning more about Harvey.
When I bought my used Ridgid saw, it was missing all four blocks, so I made some out of Lignum Vitae; has worked well.
Well organized and informative overview. Of course. BEli eve it or not, my trusty old Delta is still ticking along with the steel guides it came with 35 years ago. (The original tires are still good, too.) I might try something else, someday.
Stephen Richie Mine too.
Mine too
I hope it continues to work well for you. One of my 20 year old tires on my Delta exploded the other day! It had gotten brittle and I had shards all over the place. Very exciting in a not good way. Fortunately I smacked the off button immediately and was cutting a scrap to test for drift.
Replacing the tires was easy and quick (thanks to TH-cam). Proper regular maintenance is a good idea. I should have done it early. Today I am going to replace the drive belt.
I have a grizzly bandit has bearing that take for ever to adjust but it cuts great and blades last long enough. I am happy with it I am a hobbyist so.
Fantastic quality! As always.
Thanks Mr. Nubbs. Is there a reputable site you would recommend we can use when comparing features? I try to take all of your helpful tips into consideration when buying tools, but often find myself digging around multiple websites to make an educated decision.
Thanks for all of your advice
As always, concise, helpful info. Thanks, James!
Are you reading my mind? Ha, was having a bit of trouble with cool blocks this week. Good timing!
I have used Carter and Sons bandsaw guides, The quality and customer support if you need them is second to none. I also use one of their steady rests on my lathe and again the quality and support if needed are second to none. This my preference for the type of work I do.
I have an old Delta Rockwell band saw. What blade guide would be the best for this saw? How much height of cut do you lose by adding the guide? Thanks for your information. I am new to woodworking and really appreciate your videos.
Another great video. I have European style guides on my 14", big round flat pieces of plastic and have found a suitable replacement yet. Might just have to get a new bandsaw.
Brett Kleidon me too. The round discs, called galette here in France, are a pain. Thought about getting custom bb guides from Carter but they are too expensive.
Benefiting from many TH-cam videos tutorials on bandsaw guides, I have summarised the two basic requirements for blade guides: providing the best support to the blade and minimising the fiction. These two requirements sometimes are a trade of.... Have anyone thought of changing their metal bearing guide to using ceramic bearings. The rear bearing also should have the orientation of a thrust bearing so the blade has more support at the back. As the bearings are moving with self lubricating body in contact with the blade, this seems to provide the maximum support and minimum fiction. I bought a set of cheap after market metal bearing guide and tried it, it seems to work.
Again...a wonderfully educational video. Thank you ever so much for your planning and time for this latest!
Hi - thanks for this very useful video. I recently bought an old craftsman 12 in that seems to be in decent shape. How do I know if the guide blocks are steel blocks or cool blocks? Are cool blocks attracted by a magnet?
Good information James thanks for sharing with us.
Stopped by Harvey woodworking last week and inspected their bandsaw. What a nice machine and I love the guides! I’m wondering if there is any way to attach Harvey guides to my Laguna 14BX. I’m going back up the their facility after the holidays to pick up my new table saw and I’ll take a harder look at how they mount their guides. Merry Christmas Stumpy!
Looking forward to a review of your bandsaws. I’d like to know more about Harvey in particular, as well as steel frame vs cast iron.
Fit an finish of what you are retro fitting to and the age of your saw also has to be taken into account. I have an older Grizzly 14” and even though there are excellent bearing guides on the market many don’t fit my model. I bought a retrofit kit from Grizzly but the fit was so poor that the bearings fixture would never sit perpendicular to the blade causing the blade to track off the wheel. Went back to cool blocks and no problems. When they wear I just touch them up on my disc sander.
Good info on this, I never figured the guides were so important, i will be making some changes in the shop. thanks
Great Video as ever! I'm new to band sawing and picked up a used Grizzly G0457 for $500. I had to clean it up and get rid of some rust but it looks good now. I've watched several videos and have learned a lot. My question is: A friend brought me a 2 1/4" thick piece of white oak. He wants it ripped in to 3/16" strips for a project he has. I bought new blades before the project and proceeded to try and rip them for him. The piece is about 2' long. All goes well for about the first 6" of the cut and then the cut starts getting real wavy no matter how slow I go. It's a 3/4" blade at 3 or 4 teeth per inch. After 2 attempts a stopped cutting not wanting to waste his material. Any clue as to the cause? Thanks for any tips.
Hi, good info in this video, thanks. My bandsaw has what looks like brass guide blocks. From my engineering experience I know that brass rubbing on steel is better than steel on steel. Have you heard of brass blocks being used? Any comments on them?
When making a DYI inverted JIGSAW insert, what size bearing sleeve should be used (over a 5/16 bolt ). To go into a thrust bearing ? Do you have preference on bearing brand for this type project?! Great video thanks
Jack in Idaho
I love your videos! Can you comment about the poor dust collection of band saws and how to improve it? Have you done anything that works?
Band saw dust collection is about lots and lots of airflow. The Harvey saws have two 4-inch dust collection ports on the saw for that purpose. And they perform better than any of my other saws. But like a miter saw and even a table saw, a band saw is a tough tool to collect dust from because of how the blade moves. No saw has perfect dust collection.
I use hardwood (bocote or purpleheart) for my guide blocks from my scraps, quick and easy to cut with my bandsaw...😉
I have a 9” Ryobi, samall one car garage shop. My 1/2” 24th I blade just left burn marks on the wood I cut, not sure if it was because of a dull blade or was I putting too much pressure on pushing the wood through the cut.
Thanks James, that was great information.
Great video as always... mate, looking for an opinion and I won’t hold it to you. I’m about to make the jump to a ‘real’ bandsaw. I had narrowed the field down to 2 until i saw this video and you mentioned the Harvey bandsaw. For whatever reason i can’t find many videos on the Harvey bandsaws. Anyway, my shortlist up until this video was the Rikon 10-326, laguna 14bx. I’ve found i can purchase the Harvey Hw614e in Australia. What would you recommend for an extremely amateur bandsaw user out of those 3. I don’t do wood turning, primarily it will be resaw and detail work. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Keep up the great videos.
Pretty much any bandsaw can cut a curve. Resawing requires more size, power and quality. I own the Rikon you refer to, and it's not a bad saw. It's just not nearly as nice as a higher-end saw like the Harvey. The Harvey guides are so much easier to adjust, it has more power and a heavier build. I stopped using the Rikon the day I got my Harvey. As for the Laguna, I never tried it so I can't comment on that one.
Here's a review of the Harvey C-14: th-cam.com/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/w-d-xo.html
No B S .....I UNDERSTOOD EVERYTHING YOU SAID STUMPY.GOOD VID MATE ☝️
As always, you bring up excellent points I hadn't even considered. Thanks much and thumbs up to crush a troll.
Thank you for this great tip 👍
I have a 18" Laguna and the guide adjustments are jut horrible. I bought the Carter guides for it and found they are just marginal better. I ended up using Carters on top and went back to originals on the bottom. I hate that saw and as a result would not buy anything Laguna anymore. Did I mention the table adjustment? I don't even want to go there.
Good vid, Lee
So, how do you know if you got good ball-bearing guides or not? If you were buying them separately, you'd expect to pay more for good ones, but what about when they come with the saw? They don't break down the invoice for all the individual pieces, and I haven't seen any yet that offer a choice of what guides to use.
Always learn something, thanks.
Stumpy! I replaced the worn out bearings on my Delta saw when I bought it used. The hardware store bearings were about $11 each, so i replaced them with some skateboard bearings which were the same size. Unfortunately they are worn out already and it's not been 6 months yet. Do you have a good source for quality bearings that dont break the wallet?
Skateboard bearings aren't designed for the speed. I would look for a local source.
I do both wood working as well as metal working (metal lathe and milling machine). My Wilton 14" band saw has a geared as well as belt reduction setup so can go from around 50 sifm to 3200....this lets me cut wood as normal but also aluminum and steel in thicker pieces...1" - 2". That saw came with Cool blocks on side and ball bearing on rear top and bottom. Never had any problems with those materials or breaking blades or premature wear. Also has a 12" resaw capacity. My other small bandsaw used only for woodworking has ball bearings and did need to replace them once as they wore out....but I am wondering if the cool stop would be the best when dealing with cutting metals like i do...no problems thus far and accuracy is good for resaw and drift not an issue. I suspect cutting metal might be rougher on ball bearing gjuides but no evidence one way or the other. I do know that you need high quality double sealed
ZZ rated bearings.
Ordering a Harvey C14 Amdoing
Smoldering sawdust is the name of my new band!
That could work especially well for a bluegrass band.
@@mikecurtin9831
Oh yeah! Gonna buy a mandolin and start practicing 👍
I have a 28-200 from Rockwell and I did a bering upgrade but the thing i've bought dosent fit well what should I buy then if I do a lot of resaw ? My saw was extended to 14 inch as well.
I use an 1941 Craftsman 12" Band Saw. It works very well especially after replacing the original Spring! But the guides are round not square. any ideas of how to make round guides out of newer material? The guides I have are copper. Thanks for your helpful videos.
Have you ever tried Vesconite guides, no friction, self lubricated, I am busy testing on abattoir bandsaws for now.
Thanks! ❤
Another Very Well Done Video James👍
Thanks for videos especially for wana be wood crafts guy like me? Just picked up a old 1950's Delta 10" band saw for pretty much nothing and wondering if it's worth the $25.00 I spent on it?
One more comment on the guide bar and post on my 14” Grizzly bandsaw, the best roller bearings on the market do not improve the cut if the bar and post are not secure. The bearing assembly on my saw is secured to the post with one (1) set screw.
How do you like your Harvey bandsaw? I have the Harvey table saw with the TiN table and like it very much but am leaning to towards the Laguna 14/12 bandsaw. Your thoughts would be appreciated! Merry Christmas!
I own both the Harvery C-14 and the HW615. I love them both for different reasons.
The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches.
Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: th-cam.com/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/w-d-xo.html
The HW615 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-alpha-hw615-15-band-saw) is a beast of a saw. It has all the things I like about the smaller C-14 (3HP, 14" re-saw capacity, quick tension release, foot brake, dual dust collection ports), but it is even more robust. Everything about it screams quality, in my opinion. I have tensioned a 1-1/4" blade on it (the manual recommends 1" max), which puts an enormous strain on a saw's frame. But this thing barely flinches. The fence is the nicest I have ever seen on a band saw. The table is extra large and heavy (I have the tin-coated table, which resists rust). If I had to say something negative, the guides are a little more fiddly to adjust on the HW614 than they are on the C-14, but still nicer than most toolless guides on the market, and very heavy duty.
Thank you, a great video very informative.
Hi James, As always great sensible advice. I'm looking at upgrading the guides on my DeWalt 3501 so this helped. Cheers, Huw
Those who criticise 'chinese' tools ought to get to know Harvey Machines and their tools. Their band saws and table saws are best in class. Wish I could afford them - very jealous of your TWO Harveys James.
Can you change the upper blade guides and leave the old bottom blade guards ? I have an old 12 inch craftsman 113.24350
Can you do a video on the Harvey bandsaw
Hello and thank you for your time. I am considering to upgrade to Harvey C14 band saw. Do you have any experience with it? I like the brand. Bought table saw from them and it’s a beauty to work with. Would really appreciate your input. Thanks
I own one. It is great saw. In fact, it is the saw you see cutting curves in this video.
@@StumpyNubs will be placing an order over the weekend. Which blade size do I need to purchase for curve cutting? Thanks
@@alexyusupov7132 Here's a blade tutorial th-cam.com/video/z7n7Gg4QOkc/w-d-xo.html
I have brass (blocks) came with the old saw.. never had an issue.
Thanks, good information
15 minutes of frustration! That's on a good day :'-( lol
Used Lignum Vitae for last 25+ years on my Delta 14”, just upgrading to the bearings on the Harvey .... fine then, upgrading the whole machine ..
could wood and tar build up on the the bearings warp the blade front to back. my blade came off not broken but warped the blade front to back making the blade useless and un fixable
If you are going to upgrade bearings go for properly sealed bearings ( 2 RS in the designation) and go fora higher quality version - the tolerances are tighter and they run better. If you can buy stainless steel versions so much the better.
Good tips!
Question: I have a WEN 14in. The tension is hard. When I push a board through the blade, the blade flexes back about 1/2 to 3/4in. Any thoughts?
The rear guide behind the blade should stop the blade from flexing backward. It should be set about the thickness of a piece of paper behind the blade when you are not cutting. As for blade tension, I raise my guides all the way up and tighten the blade until I can only push it about 1/4-inch to the side (not back) with reasonable pressure from my finger.
I'm currently looking into getting a new saw to replace my old 16in walker turner. I like my current saw but it is way to finicky. I'm looking to get a 14in saw mainly for resawing. Any recommendations? I've been eyeing the laguna 1412 and the rikon 10 326. But their are so many options and I'm struggling to find non bias opinions on TH-cam. Thanks!
I highly recommend Harvey band saws. The two with the nice guides in this video are Harvey saws.
Mine has brass dowl guides have you ever used them ? Very hard to set up though 😎
I use my Oliver bandsaw all of the time I need to upgrade its guides, got any souses for quality bearing guides
Carter
Nice vid. Thanks.
7:07 My saw has the similar guide. I don’t understand why the only ball bearing behind guiding the back of the blade is fitted that way? Strange! That’s not the way a ball bearing intended to work. Do you see what I mean?
That's not an uncommon guide design.
@@StumpyNubs That’s exactly what surprises me more. Thanks.
@@maxwang2537
It's really not the best way, but I don't think that actually matters much in this case. You just need something that can turn when catching the back edge of the blade. It has to be adjustable no matter which way the bearing is facing. Although I assume you would get slightly faster bearing wear pushing from the side.
It's probably turned sideways more because of it being easier/cheaper to manufacture, than anything else.
Could you comment on the guide support. I purchased Carter guides, bearings, which did not help due to the shaky guide support(s). Would have paid extra $ for an upgrade but informed not available for Grizzly brand bandsaw.
tire change did it for me with a different brand a whole 180 degree difference, use poly
Great info! P