A bigger filter allows you to have more filtering media, which decreases the surface velocity of the oil flowing through. You will see significantly lower pressure drop across the larger filter. If it fits I'd recommend it.
On all my 2JZ setups Id run the larger YZZD3 filter, oil pressure barely ever showed any true drops, but I also used the slightly higher capacity for 300ML additives as well. Especially with a relocation the D3 is worth it.
people also need to remember that all filters are not the same. if going with a filter that wasn't designed specifically for that vehicle, they need to look into how much oil pressure your oiling system outputs and how much pressure the system that filter was designed for opperates and or what pressure the bypass valve operates on the oil filtesr. you could have an issue if you run into the extremes. your system having high oil pressure and the filter designed for lower will result in the bypass valve being active too often and oil not being filtered which can result in pre-mature bearing wear or failure.
Wow....... Your bearing clearance and oil pump dictate the engines oil pressure. If the filter was the point of highest resistance you would see bearing failure.
@@jasonhooey5677 it's a relative amount. The filter probably won't make a huge difference (depends on the flow rates across it). Yeah I agree that bearings are the reason you need an oil pump
@@ramonbombom166 you can understand though that it's the clearance the ultimately sets the pressure when running. Big clearance low pressure, high pressure super tight clearance. The pump is also apart of this . Most filters have a relief valve built in incase the media gets plugged, to bypass oil. Which is low, most less than 12psi. A big filter allows you to go longer between oil changes and hold a little more oil.
Biggest filter that fits. Shorten the stock 2-piece driveshaft first. A driveshaft shop can shorten and balance it really quick. Avoids the possibility of drivetrain vibration at speed (and it's cheap!) compared to a 1 piece. You can always order a custom one-piece later if it proves to be an issue. Wouldn't you need to convert to some sort of slip-yoke setup if you do a 1 piece shaft? I didn't think the guibo was enough, since the OE has a slip yoke at the carrier bearing. Did I miss what exhaust manifold you're using? Looks nice. Can't wait to see what turbo you'll use.
6:20 The larger filter will allow more volume to flow through the filter at the same pressure; however, the holes in the inlet (smaller outside holes) are probably the restriction anyway. Without knowing the bottleneck, nobody could tell you if the larger filter is of benefit. I'm sure K&N has the flow data; call them.
I run a solid motor mount on my car and that allowed the engine to be about an inch lower. That might resolve a lot of your issues. Maybe see if you can test drive a 2jz with solid mounts? Because it's a straight 6 it has almost no NVH issues except the slightest shake at idle. GL with the build. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
I've lowered my engine about an inch with solid motor mounts in the past. That combined with poly suspension bushings and higher rear gear ratio made the car much more nimble and responsive. I think this is a good idea.
A tough job made quite a bit easier with some great swap part support! I've found I need to figure out how much hammer-massaging I plan on doing and multiply it by 10 to match reality. The only concern I would have with the one piece driveshaft is getting the proper angle on the U-Joints. Congrats on the progress!
If they had installed the drive shaft the shifter would be in the stock location. So the only problem would be mounts for the 2jz taking into account the adaptor and how far forward the engine falls. And to a lesser extent the brake booster and master cylinder. Swapping jz into e chassis is a common practice where I'm from.
Guys, when having a custom prop shaft made up for my swap (albeit a different chassis/engine) rule of thumb is if you’re going over 1m in length, balance/vibration is tricky with a single piece and it’s recommended to go 2-piece. Even if you go single piece and thicker wall, the added mass becomes an issue at speed.
Get a PHR modified oil pump or look up how to port the factory like pump. Then run the large filter. Either way google 2jz TSRM, the factory minimum spec for oil pressure is like 7 psi at idle or some crap. Also you will see a pressure drop when you add the oil cooler so a stronger flowing pump will help with that. Also I will slap you over the internet if you dont change the valve stem seals before installing the motor.
Bigger oil filter for sure guys. For the driveshaft any reputable driveshaft shop will be able to shorten the existing one and balance it. The horsepower freaks m3's were pushing nearly 1000rwhp with these oem driveshafts. The one piece being better is specifically around a track application. For a daily high hp car you'll have no issues with the OEM driveshaft.
Cool series! Longer oil filter should not lower your oil pressure. Just takes more oil to fill. A drive shaft shop should be able to shorten and balance your drive shaft if you provide the mesurements and your driveshaft is made of steel or aluminum.
Very cool. I always wonder why not design on cradle spacers and the control arm bushings. Add extra bolts through body. Will increase wheel travel and more adjustability on a slammed coilover.
Hey Pete...doesn't matter if this vid didn't have all the cool parts...don't apologise...this vid was way better....showing the process of what works and what doesn't. Real world $#it . Keep up the great content. Nice filming Dave 👍
If it has a BMW rear diff, drive shaft and gearbox it should all fit. I think you need them engine mounts adjusted forward to compensate for the thickness of the gearbox adapter plate.
Really interesting how you've done your 2jz swap compared to mine. Mines had the engine further forward so I can still use OEM driveshaft and gearbox mounting cradle. But the problem I run into is finding a radiator fan setup that can fit in the front. Currently use slim line fans but on track just doesn't cut it.
I would use the smaller filter just simply because it is closer to the factory size. It will be easier to change also. The only advantage of the bigger filter would be extra oil which increases thermal capacity but since you are adding an intercooler you already will have extra oil.
@@speedacademy Well, that's an issue I had forgot about.. The notch might be the cleaner solution though, as it seems like a nightmare to get heater hoses etc. working with that little space, even if you manage to clearance the firewall/tunnel.
for the filters, oil pressure and filtration are the same, the larger one just has a larger capacity and service life ( might take a little while longer to get oil pressure after a change unless the filter is pre filled )
I have a friend who has a 1150whp E36 M3 (with the S50 euro engine) - I think he broke 2 or 3 stock driveshafts with around 800whp (doing drag racing mostly) - He since then have been running a once piece for like 4 years without issues
Haven't K&N oil filters had some structural issues with that nut stuck on the bottom? I've heard of them blowing out. Also, your oil cooler setup will probably lower oil pressure. So maybe try the small filter first? Reach out to DysonAnalysis if you're really concerned about it (might need to send him a sample first).
@speedacademy In my experience with Chevy LS motors bigger or smaller filters usually lead to the OEM oil pressure gauge reading weird oil pressure ranges. I would avoid changing the size if possible. I had a 5.3 that spun a bearing that I am pretty sure was loss of oil pressure after switching to a larger WIX filter. It's just speculation on my part though.
As much as i like your vids, im not the guy that complains on TH-cam creators, it would be nice with some more actual building and a bit less bolt on parts from boxes. But maybe its just me. :) great work guys!
One peice drive shaft is the way to go IMO. That carrier bearing is just one more thing to fail. If it's balanced properly it shouldn't vibrate at all.
You need to buy an OEM giubo, that dorman will not last and we will see an episode on how to replace one with an OEM unit. Remember line up the bolts with the arrows.
Would the engine drop in with the supplied mounts if it weren't for your adapted transmission set-up, or would you have to do all that bashing and cutting regardless? Almost seems like a custom engine mount - or modifying the supplied ones - would have been less work.
Nice project!! im building my one too. it's an E36 coupe with 2JZ from Aristo. i'm facing some problems, the oil pan are hitting the steering box. maybe can you share your experience!! thanks!!
Except for TURBO lambos. 😆 But you are right about NA Lambos. I was NOT impressed at all with their level of power. I did a full day package with Gotham rentals driving 6 different supercars on the road. They were not detuned cars. But none put out 700RWHP. Not even close. Not a single one could hold a candle to a stage 3 Horsepower Freaks E46 M3 that I rode in once in Orlando. But it was a built bottom end S54 engine pushing over 700 horsepower to the rear wheel on pump gas and meth spray. 800RWHP on race gas. This was way before flex fuel and E85. I would love to see this build with a fortified 2JZ bottom end running on Flex Fuel E85. That is definitely the way to go in my opinion. Can run MASSIVE boost in the street...up to 30psi. Or run pump gas or any kind of mix!! Boost is automatically adjusted. Using the AEM Infinity computer, you can dial in any level of traction control so you can put power to the ground better than ever before.
As a suggestion, why don't you guys get a couple of tripods for your cameras so that you can both be in the picture together doing work on the projects together? I've seen so many times when one of you is filming by hand, hen the other is semi struggling to do a job single handedly. Just a thought... Great build. This episode gave me an idea for a future project of my own.
A bigger filter allows you to have more filtering media, which decreases the surface velocity of the oil flowing through. You will see significantly lower pressure drop across the larger filter. If it fits I'd recommend it.
On all my 2JZ setups Id run the larger YZZD3 filter, oil pressure barely ever showed any true drops, but I also used the slightly higher capacity for 300ML additives as well. Especially with a relocation the D3 is worth it.
people also need to remember that all filters are not the same. if going with a filter that wasn't designed specifically for that vehicle, they need to look into how much oil pressure your oiling system outputs and how much pressure the system that filter was designed for opperates and or what pressure the bypass valve operates on the oil filtesr. you could have an issue if you run into the extremes. your system having high oil pressure and the filter designed for lower will result in the bypass valve being active too often and oil not being filtered which can result in pre-mature bearing wear or failure.
Wow....... Your bearing clearance and oil pump dictate the engines oil pressure. If the filter was the point of highest resistance you would see bearing failure.
@@jasonhooey5677 it's a relative amount. The filter probably won't make a huge difference (depends on the flow rates across it). Yeah I agree that bearings are the reason you need an oil pump
@@ramonbombom166 you can understand though that it's the clearance the ultimately sets the pressure when running. Big clearance low pressure, high pressure super tight clearance. The pump is also apart of this . Most filters have a relief valve built in incase the media gets plugged, to bypass oil. Which is low, most less than 12psi. A big filter allows you to go longer between oil changes and hold a little more oil.
Biggest filter that fits.
Shorten the stock 2-piece driveshaft first. A driveshaft shop can shorten and balance it really quick.
Avoids the possibility of drivetrain vibration at speed (and it's cheap!) compared to a 1 piece.
You can always order a custom one-piece later if it proves to be an issue.
Wouldn't you need to convert to some sort of slip-yoke setup if you do a 1 piece shaft? I didn't think the guibo was enough, since the OE has a slip yoke at the carrier bearing.
Did I miss what exhaust manifold you're using? Looks nice. Can't wait to see what turbo you'll use.
It's almost like a microcosm of my life. No matter how much I massage it, or how hammered she gets, I'm still too short.
6:20 The larger filter will allow more volume to flow through the filter at the same pressure; however, the holes in the inlet (smaller outside holes) are probably the restriction anyway. Without knowing the bottleneck, nobody could tell you if the larger filter is of benefit. I'm sure K&N has the flow data; call them.
Go to a one piece!
So ready to see this thing shred
I run a solid motor mount on my car and that allowed the engine to be about an inch lower. That might resolve a lot of your issues. Maybe see if you can test drive a 2jz with solid mounts?
Because it's a straight 6 it has almost no NVH issues except the slightest shake at idle. GL with the build. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
I've lowered my engine about an inch with solid motor mounts in the past. That combined with poly suspension bushings and higher rear gear ratio made the car much more nimble and responsive. I think this is a good idea.
You bring the Moose in then all of a sudden you're 3-4 inches to long. Not a coincidence.
9:45 I see Connie, I wonder when she goes to paint?
When moose gets done with his mating season
Every time I hear the M3 killer intro I just got a smile on my face.
The best episodes are always the ones when we get to see Pete’s big hammer.
Keep the two piece and get the end re done, long one pieces can give bad vibrations at high rpm 👍🏻
A tough job made quite a bit easier with some great swap part support! I've found I need to figure out how much hammer-massaging I plan on doing and multiply it by 10 to match reality. The only concern I would have with the one piece driveshaft is getting the proper angle on the U-Joints. Congrats on the progress!
If they had installed the drive shaft the shifter would be in the stock location. So the only problem would be mounts for the 2jz taking into account the adaptor and how far forward the engine falls. And to a lesser extent the brake booster and master cylinder. Swapping jz into e chassis is a common practice where I'm from.
Ditch the two piece and get a custom one piece it’ll handle power better and it’ll put more power down like you said. So stoked to see the engine in!
Guys, when having a custom prop shaft made up for my swap (albeit a different chassis/engine) rule of thumb is if you’re going over 1m in length, balance/vibration is tricky with a single piece and it’s recommended to go 2-piece. Even if you go single piece and thicker wall, the added mass becomes an issue at speed.
I'm really enjoying this series of vids for this build. I especially like the "what do you guys think?" aspect that is consistent across all content.
Put that S54 in that E28 body in the background that would be super sweet
One piece drive shaft; you need to represent that super car killer status! Have a good weekend guys.
Get a PHR modified oil pump or look up how to port the factory like pump. Then run the large filter. Either way google 2jz TSRM, the factory minimum spec for oil pressure is like 7 psi at idle or some crap. Also you will see a pressure drop when you add the oil cooler so a stronger flowing pump will help with that.
Also I will slap you over the internet if you dont change the valve stem seals before installing the motor.
0:49 That is a nice piece. The truss supports have "engineer" written all over it.
Go one piece! I did one on my B5 Audi and my z32 and they are awesome!
Bigger oil filter for sure guys. For the driveshaft any reputable driveshaft shop will be able to shorten the existing one and balance it. The horsepower freaks m3's were pushing nearly 1000rwhp with these oem driveshafts. The one piece being better is specifically around a track application. For a daily high hp car you'll have no issues with the OEM driveshaft.
I feel you guys’ pain. This takes me back when I had to bang the crap out of my FC to fit in a CD009
Love this build... the most exciting so far!
One for the Drift Works boys in the UK!
Lots of progress made here! Amazing video guys! Keep it up
Always happy to see Moose.
Cool series!
Longer oil filter should not lower your oil pressure. Just takes more oil to fill.
A drive shaft shop should be able to shorten and balance your drive shaft if you provide the mesurements and your driveshaft is made of steel or aluminum.
This is such a cool project, keep it up!
Very cool.
I always wonder why not design on cradle spacers and the control arm bushings. Add extra bolts through body.
Will increase wheel travel and more adjustability on a slammed coilover.
Bigger filter because bigger can be better and this would be better.
A wild Moose appears!
Hey Pete...doesn't matter if this vid didn't have all the cool parts...don't apologise...this vid was way better....showing the process of what works and what doesn't. Real world $#it . Keep up the great content. Nice filming Dave 👍
I love the honesty in this video!
Big filter for less pressure drop. This is crucial when tracking the car. Consider installing an Accusump as well as they are "cheap" insurance.
If it has a BMW rear diff, drive shaft and gearbox it should all fit. I think you need them engine mounts adjusted forward to compensate for the thickness of the gearbox adapter plate.
The revange of the Supra! The new with a bimmer engine the old M3 with Toyota engine!! Love 2 see u guys! Best of luck!
do a cost analysis video where u cover the parts and the total price of the car (how much was spent on it total)
One piece carbon fiber for weight savings and strength.
Also Moose looks like he did some weight reduction. Looking good!
1 piece from the driveshaft shop!!!👍🏻👍🏻🤘🏻
Love these episodes great work guys
Really interesting how you've done your 2jz swap compared to mine.
Mines had the engine further forward so I can still use OEM driveshaft and gearbox mounting cradle. But the problem I run into is finding a radiator fan setup that can fit in the front. Currently use slim line fans but on track just doesn't cut it.
I would use the smaller filter just simply because it is closer to the factory size. It will be easier to change also. The only advantage of the bigger filter would be extra oil which increases thermal capacity but since you are adding an intercooler you already will have extra oil.
Seems like moving the engine forward a few cm would help a lot...
Def!
F1NNSP1N Unfortunately the rear sump is so close to the front subframe we have zero room. We may notch it a bit tho
@@speedacademy Well, that's an issue I had forgot about.. The notch might be the cleaner solution though, as it seems like a nightmare to get heater hoses etc. working with that little space, even if you manage to clearance the firewall/tunnel.
F1NNSPIN SSSShhhhhhh!
Polar moment of inertia, yo
Always a one piece tail shaft, one less link in the chain that can break.
Bigger is better when it comes to filters. Greater filter media surface area.
for the filters, oil pressure and filtration are the same, the larger one just has a larger capacity and service life ( might take a little while longer to get oil pressure after a change unless the filter is pre filled )
"and what not" - Speed Academy
I have a friend who has a 1150whp E36 M3 (with the S50 euro engine) - I think he broke 2 or 3 stock driveshafts with around 800whp (doing drag racing mostly) - He since then have been running a once piece for like 4 years without issues
Bigger for added volume. But I'm pretty sure k+n is the worst for oil filters. Go with a large mobile 1 or a large Toyota filter maybe from a tundra?
Haven't K&N oil filters had some structural issues with that nut stuck on the bottom? I've heard of them blowing out. Also, your oil cooler setup will probably lower oil pressure. So maybe try the small filter first? Reach out to DysonAnalysis if you're really concerned about it (might need to send him a sample first).
@speedacademy In my experience with Chevy LS motors bigger or smaller filters usually lead to the OEM oil pressure gauge reading weird oil pressure ranges. I would avoid changing the size if possible. I had a 5.3 that spun a bearing that I am pretty sure was loss of oil pressure after switching to a larger WIX filter. It's just speculation on my part though.
ONE PIECE DRIVE SHAFT PLEASE!! This is my dream build, and y'all doing it and this has got me looking into getting a E46 coupe with a 1jz
I recommend stay 2 piece, check out Greg Peters vibration problems on the car passion channel, he's been chasing the issue for some time.
14:37 that E28!
Well done guys!! Great video! Thumbs up!!
Do it the easy way....lengthen the car to make the drive shaft fit.
As much as i like your vids, im not the guy that complains on TH-cam creators, it would be nice with some more actual building and a bit less bolt on parts from boxes. But maybe its just me. :) great work guys!
one piece. shortening that will increase its likely hood to sheer with how close it is to where the cylinder narrows.
This is like the opposite of the 2020 Zupra (Toyota body + BMW engine)... BMW body with a Toyota engine 🤣
Cool tho! ✨
Definitely get a lightweight one piece driveshaft
Single piece carbon 🔥
Great stuff!
The e28 is still looking good I see 😏
It's hammer time! Yah!
One peice drive shaft is the way to go IMO. That carrier bearing is just one more thing to fail. If it's balanced properly it shouldn't vibrate at all.
Did Pete just say OE quality from Dorman??? Lol
Some of their basic, non moving parts, like door hinge bushings, are OE quality. Sensors and electrical components not so much.
The update is good...but, the intro was greater! Dave...lol!
Hammer time!!!
You need to buy an OEM giubo, that dorman will not last and we will see an episode on how to replace one with an OEM unit. Remember line up the bolts with the arrows.
Would the engine drop in with the supplied mounts if it weren't for your adapted transmission set-up, or would you have to do all that bashing and cutting regardless? Almost seems like a custom engine mount - or modifying the supplied ones - would have been less work.
Nice project!!
im building my one too. it's an E36 coupe with 2JZ from Aristo. i'm facing some problems, the oil pan are hitting the steering box. maybe can you share your experience!! thanks!!
Nice shirt, Moose. 👍
I sold parts for a few years doorman is usually OEquality, sometimes even revised to be better than OE for problematic parts.
Would like a list of parts that you used for building your e46 as I have e46 chassis and would like to build it
if you need to cut it just remove the bulk from the thick part of your drive shaft so you dont need to worry about screwing up the transition
get a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft or if your feeling baller get a carbon fibre one for true super car killer vibe plus weight saving
I can't wait seeing those Lambo's a run for their money when this supercar killer gets finished!
Except for TURBO lambos. 😆
But you are right about NA Lambos. I was NOT impressed at all with their level of power.
I did a full day package with Gotham rentals driving 6 different supercars on the road. They were not detuned cars. But none put out 700RWHP. Not even close.
Not a single one could hold a candle to a stage 3 Horsepower Freaks E46 M3 that I rode in once in Orlando.
But it was a built bottom end S54 engine pushing over 700 horsepower to the rear wheel on pump gas
and meth spray. 800RWHP on race gas. This was way before flex fuel and E85.
I would love to see this build with a fortified 2JZ bottom end running on Flex Fuel E85. That is definitely the way to go in my opinion. Can run MASSIVE boost in the street...up to 30psi. Or run pump gas or any kind of mix!! Boost is automatically adjusted.
Using the AEM Infinity computer, you can dial in any level of traction control so you can put power to the ground better than ever before.
ULTRARACING BARS EVERYWHERE GUYS
1 piece driveshaft shop unit :-)
If the ASS2000 taught us anything its that you should go with the bigger filter if Peter did any of the RTV application haha
One piece aluminum or carbon fibre driveshaft will be simpler but expensive. Also the rotating assembly will be a lot lighter.
Pete should enter The King of Hammers.
Wouldn’t a larger filter had a better flow? Especially when oil gets older?
Go for a CFRP driveshaft and roof.
"massaging"... I could definitely go for that type of a back rub lmaoo
test fit the drivesaft again but put the gearbox end in at first all the way
As a suggestion, why don't you guys get a couple of tripods for your cameras so that you can both be in the picture together doing work on the projects together? I've seen so many times when one of you is filming by hand, hen the other is semi struggling to do a job single handedly. Just a thought... Great build. This episode gave me an idea for a future project of my own.
There's a Moose in the House, I thought it was a deer. ;)
Not sure if the drive shaft is a straight run , air-go the center bearing ! But if it is why did BMW do a split drive shaft?
This is not a question
"T-Rex Dave is coming to get you." LOL!!
You will never moneyshift with the coolerworx shifter 😉
Get Drive Shaft Shop to make a 1 piece carbon drive shaft.
Should done a oil filter relocation instead of a sandwich plate.
Did you mean drift motion?
Do you know what the weight difference between the motors? Cheers's from East-Van B.C, Canada.
Put the S54 and Turbo it... and you will run this car with no issues of fitment.
I don't know much about oil filters but I used to run a larger oil filter on my race car strictly for the added capacity. Right/Wrong, I don't know.
I’m next where can I get the engine mounts
Hey Pete, what brand gloves are you using? They look to be nice and thin for good dexterity