Good job man. One thing I would recommend is putting the part numbers in the description of the video and/or pictures of them in the video itself. Things such as the part numbers for the cam, bolt kits, what intake you used etc
I'm building a 385 w for my 86 , it's got a eagle 3.750 crank , autotec forged +.040 crower rods ,comp retro fit roller 218 deg small cam , world products senior heads , my front dress is 90 f150 serpentine and AC pump , and running a single 75mm TB and a older Motec computer. I like the 351w they go really well . Cheers.
@@Cobra427Veight like is said "I could be wrong", I was going of what I think his channel is neomustang showed. Plus when it comes to complex math in as illiterate as a 2 year old.
Hey , you mentioned about not trusting 4 carb bolts , id did a reasonable amount of crane work and even a 4" nail thats been skewed in will hold one 1 tonne , so 4 5/16 bolts are easily strong enough to hold a complete engine . . Cheers.
Thanks for sharing, however you have a lot of guts using a Comp flat tappet cam shift! Have you not heard about all the Comp cam failures???? So many TH-cam videos out there on it. And the Cam failures were NOT people that did a poor break-In, they were racers etc that knew what they were doing. Good Luck.
Very good video! I'm beginning or continuing a ground up rebuild on my 93 F150 have a 94 351 Windsor roller motor that I'm attempting a low-budget rebuild so like your motor no trick or afr heads, stock. I've been reading up and trying to decide what kind of combinations of parts using what I have .Not going to be a daily driver. Your video was very helpful.
Hi CM, yep, that is what I am going to build and run. 351W roller block 94-97. Thinking on a 408 stroker build. Can't wait to get started as soon as I find my block.
@@sethpinney1483 all I can say is the 94 lighting with the 351w had a Whipple supercharger on it when I got it in the salvage yard and after machine work is now a 427 and keeps the Coyotes in line when needed and is in a 94 GT Mustang and Dosent weigh 2 ton like the new ones at 3900 pound and have a nice day Thx
Very easy. I had the torque converter sitting in the transmission and made sure the converter was seated all the way. Lined up the the flex plate holes to the torque converter bolts and seated everything together. Installed bellhousing bolts first and then torqued the converter bolts down. The converter bolts got loctite. And you’ll have to crank the engine over to get to all the converter bolts
I don't understand why people still use advertised duration now that the duration at .050 is available. advertised duration can be completely misleading for where peak power is going to be.
Stock. I had the opinion that .060 over was a bad idea at first, but after more research I found that a lot people go .060 over and as long as you don’t beat on it or add boost you should be fine
I'm sorry to say but if you use silicone on a gasket it is not made for gaskets that gasket will mash up and start leaking never ever ever ever ever ever ever you should have gone on gaskets you can use it on certain rubber gaskets but it's a no no, supposed to use aviation permatex or I used to use spray tacky. If you haven't put the engine in you need to change your gaskets silicon will eat them up and they will start leaking.
man inspiring me ! might really do this, thx for the vid
Good job man. One thing I would recommend is putting the part numbers in the description of the video and/or pictures of them in the video itself. Things such as the part numbers for the cam, bolt kits, what intake you used etc
I am working on a 351 right now 🔥
Nice job 👍🏼
Enjoyed your video I have a 93 f150 4x4 Flareside it has the 5.0 but I have a 351w I'm going to rebuild and put in it thanks for the video
Great info, thanks. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
Great video pls make more
I'm building a 385 w for my 86 , it's got a eagle 3.750 crank , autotec forged +.040 crower rods ,comp retro fit roller 218 deg small cam , world products senior heads , my front dress is 90 f150 serpentine and AC pump , and running a single 75mm TB and a older Motec computer. I like the 351w they go really well . Cheers.
Awesome!
I thought for a 385w the crank was 3.850 or am I mistaken?
@joevaagen6170 Hi Joe, if you do the math , I'm at 0.40 over so
4.040 x 4.040 x 3.750 x .7854 = 48.071 x 8 = 384.569 . Cheers ..7854 is a constant ..
@@Cobra427Veight like is said "I could be wrong", I was going of what I think his channel is neomustang showed. Plus when it comes to complex math in as illiterate as a 2 year old.
Hey , you mentioned about not trusting 4 carb bolts , id did a reasonable amount of crane work and even a 4" nail thats been skewed in will hold one 1 tonne , so 4 5/16 bolts are easily strong enough to hold a complete engine . . Cheers.
Nice
Thanks for sharing, however you have a lot of guts using a Comp flat tappet cam shift! Have you not heard about all the Comp cam failures???? So many TH-cam videos out there on it. And the Cam failures were NOT people that did a poor break-In, they were racers etc that knew what they were doing. Good Luck.
Very good video! I'm beginning or continuing a ground up rebuild on my 93 F150 have a 94 351 Windsor roller motor that I'm attempting a low-budget rebuild so like your motor no trick or afr heads, stock. I've been reading up and trying to decide what kind of combinations of parts using what I have .Not going to be a daily driver. Your video was very helpful.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful.
Hi CM, yep, that is what I am going to build and run. 351W roller block 94-97. Thinking on a 408 stroker build. Can't wait to get started as soon as I find my block.
Replace your pistons on the rods backwards and you release the drag on the engine.
Paint color is great , easily to detect oil leaks. Black paint is horrible
which scat crank did you use? theres quite a few on summit
Part number is SCA-9351W05. 28 oz. External balance, cast steel, 3.50” stroke
Swap the intake to a Supercharger from a lighting and watch it wake up majorly
the supercharged lightings were 5.4 triton v8 not 351w... first gen 5.8 lightnings were naturally aspirated
@@sethpinney1483 all I can say is the 94 lighting with the 351w had a Whipple supercharger on it when I got it in the salvage yard and after machine work is now a 427 and keeps the Coyotes in line when needed and is in a 94 GT Mustang and Dosent weigh 2 ton like the new ones at 3900 pound and have a nice day Thx
Never bore a 351 winsor too 60 over it make the cylinder walls thin and they leak anti freeze and hope you use a 1969 cougar xr7 crank its cast iron
60 over is doing fine for me
be very careful with a flat tappet cam nice build though
Plan to be. Thanks
Especially with the Junk Comp is putting out now. Too many other great choices out there.
How do you shift the transmission if the valve body has solenoids that are controlled by the ecm?
Transmission controller- Quick Shift 4
How difficult was it to connect the engine to the torque converter?
Very easy. I had the torque converter sitting in the transmission and made sure the converter was seated all the way. Lined up the the flex plate holes to the torque converter bolts and seated everything together. Installed bellhousing bolts first and then torqued the converter bolts down. The converter bolts got loctite. And you’ll have to crank the engine over to get to all the converter bolts
I don't understand why people still use advertised duration now that the duration at .050 is available. advertised duration can be completely misleading for where peak power is going to be.
Are you running a High Volume oil pump ?
No. Standard volume.
Is it a stock block? I hear 60 over isnt a good idea but could be wrong
Stock. I had the opinion that .060 over was a bad idea at first, but after more research I found that a lot people go .060 over and as long as you don’t beat on it or add boost you should be fine
What the horsepower ?
Haven’t got it on the dyno yet. It’s going to be pretty restricted with stock heads. Hoping for at least 275hp and 400 torque
Must be a 1980s block
1983 block
Is this an ho 351w
Not originally
I'm sorry to say but if you use silicone on a gasket it is not made for gaskets that gasket will mash up and start leaking never ever ever ever ever ever ever you should have gone on gaskets you can use it on certain rubber gaskets but it's a no no, supposed to use aviation permatex or I used to use spray tacky. If you haven't put the engine in you need to change your gaskets silicon will eat them up and they will start leaking.