Easily one of the best engines Ford ever bolted into a chassis. Very underrated and at one time, overlooked. Owned mine since August 28, 1969. Bolted into my original 1969 Mach 1. Just finished rebuilding that original engine. Blew a head gasket after FIFTY-FOUR YEARS of dependable service. Running sweet again!
Absolutely the 351w is an incredible engine, durable and inspite of SBC parts being the cheapest most readily available thing out there, a 351w has more hp/$ potential than a 350sbc by far, it takes a truck LS with boost to have a shot at a better hp/$ than 9.5" Windsor.
@@hendo337 and that 350 Chevy built might make similar HP as a built 351w but the 350 torque will often be half it's HP while that 351w torque will be very close to its HP
This looks fantastic!! It's really going to mark some power!! Thanks for giving us an opportunity to be a part of this build! Should make over 500hp easily lol
Well I did some work on the heads and got them up to 314 cfm on the intake which is about the same as a what stock LS3 heads flow peak, so they do alright. Not sure about the LS1, but probably not as good as LS3 or LS7.
@@asymptoticsingularity9281 The CFM or amount of air that a cylinder head will flow is measured at a standard pressure (28 in. H2O) on a flow bench, and is not directly related to the CFM requirement of the carburetor. The size of carburetor or CFM rating needed for an engine is more a function of engine displacement, max RPM, and volumetric efficiency. For a rough estimate of carb size needed you can do a Google search for carb size calculator to find a CFM calculator for carburetors.
My Dad had a 68 Galaxy when I was a kid. It had a 390. Great car for road trips. 71 Galaxy is a cool car as well. I think the 351W benefited from aftermarket parts development for the 5.0 in Foxbody Mustangs since cylinder heads and camshaft interchange, and it was an easy swap for people wanting to move up from a 5.0 to a 351/5.8.
When choosing which thickness for the intake manifold. What is the ideal distance between the intake manifold and the engine block?? I realize the thicker the gasket the bigger the gap. But what gap are we looking for? Also. Super well-made video. Camera work was excellent and the narration was great as well. Answered all the questions so many of us were wondering😁😁👍👍
I think a stock gasket is around .060 " thick which should work in most cases. I was trying to adjust the port alignment / height between intake and cylinder head so I went with a thinner gasket. As far as gap between the block end rail and intake manifold, I don't think there is an ideal gap but the bigger the gap the thicker the bead of RTV/silicone required to fill the gap so at some point the gap might be too big to fill with RTV.
I ran that same distributor many many years ago, it was invincible and dead on with timing. It was a pain to do the points, but worked great regardless.
Looks like an amazing build ! Question for You is the intake manifold port matched to the gaskets that You are going to use and how is Your port alignment between the manifold and the heads ? Reason that I ask is the shot of the gasket on the head look like the intake ports could benefit from a little bit of gasket matching , just an observation could be worth a few ponies . Best Wishes & Best of Luck , Thank You for sharing Your build please keep Us updated on all Your progress. 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
@@ferdinandcuevas8457 I ended up switching intake gaskets and going with an AFR 220 gasket which has a larger opening... as far as port matching, I focused on getting the intake manifold and port on the heads aligned and removed some small amount from the ports on the heads to keep from having a lip between the manifold and the head. Thanks for watching.
With that flat top piston I don’t believe a 60 cc chamber will get you a 10.5-1 CR. Especially with your piston below deck. It’s more likely between 9.5 and 10. You might want to check it.
Actually, I just ran the numbers on Summit's online calculator, and got 10.8 to 1. Specs are as follows, 4.030 x 3.500" bore x stroke , 60cc chambers, 5cc valve relief, .022 " deck clearance, 0.023" gasket thickness
Kind of a shame nobody makes a 5.975-5.980" connecting rod to use off the shelf 9.48" 351w pistons with a 9.503" deck block or a piston for a 9.503" block with a 6" rod. I have a 9.503" deck roller block and considering how cheap 408 stroker kits can be had, $1,380 from Scat, I would probably just go for it, if it was doing an N/A street build. I always wanted to piece together a 434 if I managed to find 331 1.165-1.175"CH pistons, 6.2" rods and a 3" main 4.25" crank cheap enough, it would probably be silly and not offer much over a 408/418/427 if anything at all, just thought it might be interesting to try something different since it would be for a ZF-5 F250 where extra tq might be useful, it has an AFR headed 393w right now and it's can atill use more. Thanks for sharing your build, got a sub for sure.
I’ve heard long ass waiting times and lying about when they will actually finish your parts from Big Dogs. Surprised to actually hear their name mentioned. One tip when torquing your heads is to line the wrench so you are pulling front to back or vice versa. Your engine stand won’t move nearly as much. It sure looked like you were jerking the the torque wrench and whole engine around in the process. Nice to hear you mention Lykins Motorsports they really are the best place to go when getting help picking a cam or anything Ford related for that matter.
Good shops stay packed. Most orders have a good turnaround time. Super customized and high difficult orders take longer. You can't satisfy the large volume of customers we have and get the results we get by rushing lol. We do it right and flow test everything👍
@@bigdogsportingtonyb2833 jerking people around by lying to customers when there parts will be done isn’t a way to run a business. I don’t care how great anyone is saying you will do something and not following through is BS. Don’t take on work if you can’t do it in a timely manner. The worst businesses are the ones who THINK they are the best and like to brag and jerk their own chain. 👎🏻💩👎🏻
What can i expect to make power wise on a bone stock 351, im putting one in my wifes truck now it was pulled from a 95 efi truck and all im doing is 4 barrel intake 600cfm carb and new distributor never been opened
350 lb-ft torque and 250 hp. If you search Richard Holdener videos he has dyno'd a stock EFI 351W, changing it to carb, and that's about what the numbers are.
@@matt2118 Ford used the same casting number for this block starting in 1984 when a design change was made to the block , and continued to use this casting number for many years to come. The number below the E4AE is the date code: 6F26. June (F) 26, 1986 (6)
Please excuse the very novice question, but I just took custodialship of my sister's 69 Mach 1. Upon arrival it's showing low oil pressure and low oil levels. I Don't know much about cars but I want to get oil in it before driving it to the Mustang mechanic that I located. Is the oil filled through the cap on the driver's side header cover? Sorry for the beginner question, but I have to start somewhere!
You have a legendary classic. So you want to maintain it as original as possible. And keep those serial numbers matching. And be willing to spend what it takes to do it right. And you basically are keeping it indoors and safe. Driving it only to really enjoy a nice day. You have been bestowed a legacy car.
@@PonkyKong Thanks for the compliments but I've owned the car since the 80s and have a little different perspective. It's nothing special as far as collectability goes. Ford made 70,000 Mach 1s in '69 - It's just a base model 2bbl 351 orginally. In another 50 years after gas engines have been banned, the car will have been scrapped, converted to an EV, or be in a museum. I'm going to enjoy it while I can. Furthermore I'd recommend anyone with the means to go buy a new Coyote Mustang and do the same before they go away. They are fabulous cars and way better than this old stuff in every way except for maybe styling.
Easily one of the best engines Ford ever bolted into a chassis. Very underrated and at one time, overlooked. Owned mine since August 28, 1969. Bolted into my original 1969 Mach 1. Just finished rebuilding that original engine. Blew a head gasket after FIFTY-FOUR YEARS of dependable service. Running sweet again!
That's really cool that you are the original owner of a '69 Mach 1 and still have it, and the original engine!
Absolutely the 351w is an incredible engine, durable and inspite of SBC parts being the cheapest most readily available thing out there, a 351w has more hp/$ potential than a 350sbc by far, it takes a truck LS with boost to have a shot at a better hp/$ than 9.5" Windsor.
I have many 351w based engines including one in a 69 LTD and in a lightning
@@hendo337 and that 350 Chevy built might make similar HP as a built 351w but the 350 torque will often be half it's HP while that 351w torque will be very close to its HP
How much would it cost to build a stock block 351w? Been thinking of going NA or a 363 stroker build
Awesome powerplant man.
Thanks!
I had a 70 mustang with a factory 351W and a 3spd/ swapped in a top loader. It was a blast
Sounds like a fun car especially with the top loader trans.
you should be close to 500! good luck at the dyno!
Thanks, appreciate it!
This looks fantastic!! It's really going to mark some power!! Thanks for giving us an opportunity to be a part of this build! Should make over 500hp easily lol
I loved my 351 Windsor in my 70 Mustang, which I used to have.
I'm building up a 351 for my 88 LX 😊
Looks and sounds like a BEAST!
I used the ARP head stud kit with my SR's, worked great.
Nothing beats a Windsor maybe LS1 heads yeah hell yes !!
Well I did some work on the heads and got them up to 314 cfm on the intake which is about the same as a what stock LS3 heads flow peak, so they do alright. Not sure about the LS1, but probably not as good as LS3 or LS7.
@@MarksMuscleCarGarage That's how you get a 750 cfm carb?
@@asymptoticsingularity9281 The CFM or amount of air that a cylinder head will flow is measured at a standard pressure (28 in. H2O) on a flow bench, and is not directly related to the CFM requirement of the carburetor. The size of carburetor or CFM rating needed for an engine is more a function of engine displacement, max RPM, and volumetric efficiency. For a rough estimate of carb size needed you can do a Google search for carb size calculator to find a CFM calculator for carburetors.
@@MarksMuscleCarGarage Makes sense. Thanks
Dang dude. When i seen your face on the thumbnail, you looked like brett the hitman hart. In his younger days of course. Great video by the way.
That's funny. Thanks!
My first car was a 71 Galaxie 500 with 351W engine. I had no idea that engine had serious hot rod potential. I thought it was a family car.
My Dad had a 68 Galaxy when I was a kid. It had a 390. Great car for road trips. 71 Galaxy is a cool car as well. I think the 351W benefited from aftermarket parts development for the 5.0 in Foxbody Mustangs since cylinder heads and camshaft interchange, and it was an easy swap for people wanting to move up from a 5.0 to a 351/5.8.
When choosing which thickness for the intake manifold. What is the ideal distance between the intake manifold and the engine block?? I realize the thicker the gasket the bigger the gap. But what gap are we looking for? Also. Super well-made video. Camera work was excellent and the narration was great as well. Answered all the questions so many of us were wondering😁😁👍👍
I think a stock gasket is around .060 " thick which should work in most cases. I was trying to adjust the port alignment / height between intake and cylinder head so I went with a thinner gasket. As far as gap between the block end rail and intake manifold, I don't think there is an ideal gap but the bigger the gap the thicker the bead of RTV/silicone required to fill the gap so at some point the gap might be too big to fill with RTV.
Crowder or Engle cams are the way to go in SBF
Kinda hard to believe Brent Lykins would recommend Comp junk. wow
Looks like a pretty nice job! We r building a .040 351 with flat tops and a clay smith custom hyd roller cam going in a bronco. Thanks for sharing
I ran that same distributor many many years ago, it was invincible and dead on with timing. It was a pain to do the points, but worked great regardless.
Looks like an amazing build ! Question for You is the intake manifold port matched to the gaskets that You are going to use and how is Your port alignment between the manifold and the heads ? Reason that I ask is the shot of the gasket on the head look like the intake ports could benefit from a little bit of gasket matching , just an observation could be worth a few ponies . Best Wishes & Best of Luck , Thank You for sharing Your build please keep Us updated on all Your progress. 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
@@ferdinandcuevas8457 I ended up switching intake gaskets and going with an AFR 220 gasket which has a larger opening... as far as port matching, I focused on getting the intake manifold and port on the heads aligned and removed some small amount from the ports on the heads to keep from having a lip between the manifold and the head. Thanks for watching.
Nice build,497 hp
@@eddiefe428 pretty close
Ansen has VC spacers in as-cast or polished at 99 bucks.
Thanks. I was looking at those. They seem to be the least expensive.
Also, Ansen can put your exact displacement on your valve covers if you want. Mine for my Windsor say "393".@@MarksMuscleCarGarage
My guess: 505HP/440FT/LBS TQ at the crank
Your build looks nice!
Thanks! That's pretty close. Watch the dyno video if you haven't already.
With that flat top piston I don’t believe a 60 cc chamber will get you a 10.5-1 CR. Especially with your piston below deck. It’s more likely between 9.5 and 10. You might want to check it.
Actually, I just ran the numbers on Summit's online calculator, and got 10.8 to 1. Specs are as follows, 4.030 x 3.500" bore x stroke , 60cc chambers, 5cc valve relief, .022 " deck clearance, 0.023" gasket thickness
That thin head gasket makes a huge difference. Stock is .047" for a 1990 sbf.
All this engine needed was
summit gear timing set!!
Kind of a shame nobody makes a 5.975-5.980" connecting rod to use off the shelf 9.48" 351w pistons with a 9.503" deck block or a piston for a 9.503" block with a 6" rod. I have a 9.503" deck roller block and considering how cheap 408 stroker kits can be had, $1,380 from Scat, I would probably just go for it, if it was doing an N/A street build. I always wanted to piece together a 434 if I managed to find 331 1.165-1.175"CH pistons, 6.2" rods and a 3" main 4.25" crank cheap enough, it would probably be silly and not offer much over a 408/418/427 if anything at all, just thought it might be interesting to try something different since it would be for a ZF-5 F250 where extra tq might be useful, it has an AFR headed 393w right now and it's can atill use more. Thanks for sharing your build, got a sub for sure.
Did you use 'Old Ford Blue' for this paint? Is it rattle can or did you use a quart and then spray? It looks good.
I had a paint store mix a quart of PPG 13358 and sprayed it with a gun.. I believe they called it Ford Corporate blue.
I’ve heard long ass waiting times and lying about when they will actually finish your parts from Big Dogs. Surprised to actually hear their name mentioned. One tip when torquing your heads is to line the wrench so you are pulling front to back or vice versa. Your engine stand won’t move nearly as much. It sure looked like you were jerking the the torque wrench and whole engine around in the process. Nice to hear you mention Lykins Motorsports they really are the best place to go when getting help picking a cam or anything Ford related for that matter.
Yes, definitely better to torque from front or back of motor, but I don't always keep that in mind when taking heads on and off.
Good shops stay packed. Most orders have a good turnaround time. Super customized and high difficult orders take longer. You can't satisfy the large volume of customers we have and get the results we get by rushing lol. We do it right and flow test everything👍
@@bigdogsportingtonyb2833 jerking people around by lying to customers when there parts will be done isn’t a way to run a business. I don’t care how great anyone is saying you will do something and not following through is BS. Don’t take on work if you can’t do it in a timely manner. The worst businesses are the ones who THINK they are the best and like to brag and jerk their own chain. 👎🏻💩👎🏻
What can i expect to make power wise on a bone stock 351, im putting one in my wifes truck now it was pulled from a 95 efi truck and all im doing is 4 barrel intake 600cfm carb and new distributor never been opened
350 lb-ft torque and 250 hp. If you search Richard Holdener videos he has dyno'd a stock EFI 351W, changing it to carb, and that's about what the numbers are.
@@MarksMuscleCarGarage thank you
E4 indicates 1984
The E4 number indicates when an engineering design change was made to the block. The actual casting date is the 4 digit code below the E4 number.
I believe this is a 84 block as well. My ford performance book says so as well.
@@matt2118 Ford used the same casting number for this block starting in 1984 when a design change was made to the block , and continued to use this casting number for many years to come. The number below the E4AE is the date code: 6F26. June (F) 26, 1986 (6)
Please excuse the very novice question, but I just took custodialship of my sister's 69 Mach 1. Upon arrival it's showing low oil pressure and low oil levels. I Don't know much about cars but I want to get oil in it before driving it to the Mustang mechanic that I located. Is the oil filled through the cap on the driver's side header cover? Sorry for the beginner question, but I have to start somewhere!
@@surf2trails Yes, driver's side breather cap is where the oil goes.
You have a legendary classic. So you want to maintain it as original as possible. And keep those serial numbers matching. And be willing to spend what it takes to do it right. And you basically are keeping it indoors and safe. Driving it only to really enjoy a nice day. You have been bestowed a legacy car.
@@PonkyKong Thanks for the compliments but I've owned the car since the 80s and have a little different perspective. It's nothing special as far as collectability goes. Ford made 70,000 Mach 1s in '69 - It's just a base model 2bbl 351 orginally. In another 50 years after gas engines have been banned, the car will have been scrapped, converted to an EV, or be in a museum. I'm going to enjoy it while I can. Furthermore I'd recommend anyone with the means to go buy a new Coyote Mustang and do the same before they go away. They are fabulous cars and way better than this old stuff in every way except for maybe styling.
What cc are the chambers ?
Compression ratio ?
Chambers are 60 cc, and CR is 10.5
@@MarksMuscleCarGarage have to make 500hp pretty easy as others have mentioned
Nice combination 👌
How much she make. Sounds badass
Have not put it on the dyno yet. Will post update when I do.
My guess is a around 515/540 torque 6300 rpm...... i guessed this as he has enough cam and his heads flow 300+ cfm.
Maybe 480. That’s pushing it.
I think your 480 upper limit is pretty accurate. Should do 450 minmum or it's a fail
You want her .005 out above the deck.
For the best quench
Using .040 thickness head gasket
406hp at 455lbs oftorque on the stand
It made 500hp and 430 lb ft on the dyno
@@MarksMuscleCarGarage nice
How much did this cost
About $6000
How much hp
@@coopervfx0 it made 500 hp on the dyno, and 440 torque
445 hp 485 lb ft tq
It made 500 Hp and 440 torque
420 hp
530
Dyno video should be out in the next day or two.
550hp
I guess 550 HP.
It made 503hp.
Screw those needle bearings, they dont last
Agree with that. I will be replacing them before too long.
Just shy of 600 hp
I don't think it's got that much in it, but we'll see.
Moroso tall valve covers work best
450hp