Thanks for this video as I have never fully understood how to properly adjust the clutch using the worm drive mechanism that pushes on the pushrod 👀 Your video is extremely clear and takes you through the (how too's) and step by steps on how to achieve this so again a massive thank you 🥳
You don't have to remove the shifter linkage to take the sprocket cover off, you can just push the shifter down into 1st and you have enough room to wiggle it out.
Ah thank you so much for this. Any time I replace a clutch cable on a bike, from now on, I'm gonna loosen the clutch worm first thing, Makes removal and installation of the cable so much easier and adjusting the cable, firstly, via the clutch worm, makes fine tuning where the lever finds the bite point, so much easier. Great video.
Just a tip..... slide a screwdriver in the slot of the locking ring (at the handle adjust), then tighten the ring by pulling on the screwdriver and thus spreading the locking ring a little. When doing it like this the ring will lock itself in place when you take the screwdriver out. Besides it won't leave any marks on the ring. 👍🤗
I came back to this video to see if it might help me address why I'm having some hard shifts. I also wanted to lubricate the clutch cable so I fully removed it. I didn't see anything too wrong on the controls side, but I did notice I'm missing 2 of the ~9 ball bearings inside the worm gear bore... thing. Lovely. It seems to function fine, but I'll try to address that over the offseason. I actually think the hard shifts are because I've been overfilling the oil and that's why it gets better over the course of a multi-day track event as some of the oil gets consumed. Or maybe it's crash damage and something bent when I went over. Or maybe I just suck at shifting. Who knows. Great vid--this one really helps supplement the manual well and I feel much more confident than if I had just interpreted the manual on my own. Cheers.
@@Mad8vCycles Next time I put in order in with you, I'll ask if you could add a few of them to the order. At the very least I'll be buying a new set of Vesrah RJL's from you for next season. My "To Buy" list is getting a little out of control so I need to give it some thought first as to what's most important to buy. I'll be trying out some Pirelli SC3 Track Days this weekend for the first time. We'll see if I'm actually quick enough to put heat in them or not.
@@Mad8vCycles Darn--makes sense not to carry them though. Gonna need some big Vesrah exec to come in and get that mad8 distributor discount down. I know I want to snag another "sprocket carrier spacer 1g sv650 99-02" which it looks like you've got a bunch of. I'll wait until my shopping list gets a little more complete though.
Thanks for this. The day I bought my sv650 the guys kid broke the clutch cable. He ordered a new one and put it in but it wasn't quite right. I got it all adjusted now but it still is a nightmare to get neutral if it's running skips right past it every time. I've only ever got it into neutral like 4 times and twice was by hand. Same kid did put 6 quarts of oil in the bike Nad I had to drain it out and I've not ridden it yet only let it run a few times and just a couple little rolls here in my yard so it could just need driven but yeah.
@@Mad8vCyclesmine easily shifted into neutral until yesterday. Now I can’t get it into neutral at all. 😔 Going to try adjusting per your video and see if that helps.
Excellent video. I never knew the worm gear could be adjusted. Anyway like your self I track not race an 06 as well and I noticed your clutch cable going straight in to the barrel nut sans the 90degree metal cable tube that is on mine. I am having some trouble with the clutch lever being a bit stiff and read that a straight cable will alleviate that. I am wondering where you got your cable or if you just made one your self. Thanks and great job on covering everything SV!
it's a spears clutch cable www.spearsenterprises.com/product/straight-clutch-cable-suzuki-sv650-1999-2013/ which i'm sure is some gsxr or something cable but i dont know the original part number
Thanks as usual for a thorough and excellent video. just took mine apart and noticed the major adjustment is also all the way out as well as the barrel adjuster. Is this usually a sign the clutch is worn out and in need of replacement? No problem throwing in a new clutch and gasket (looks like a pretty easy and not too expensive diy repair) but the clutch isn’t slipping or anything. Is there any other common issue that can cause this or just normal wear. I’m the turd owner 30,000 miles on the bike rides beautifully and shifting hasn’t been an issue but would rather not have zero adjustment left.
Thanks for this! I'm gunna have to give this a try! Bike went into a garage to get two new sprockets and a chain, but they said on collection, "whille adjusting the sprockets, we almost lost your clutch, and it didn't look right. So we altered it." Now it doesn't disengage at all. They were closing so I couldn't take the bike back and I was 60miles from home! What would you do! So thanks for this big time, this maybe something I can do with your explaination and visuals :) Keep smiling
@@Mad8vCycles I know, and they were 'recommended' but how do I get them to resort it all out? Exactly.... more cost. He said something will need sorting, or changing down there behind the sprocket cover for the clutch bit. Can't remember what it was called. But figured either put it in another garage, or do it myself. So thanks again
@@Mad8vCycles Just wanted to say thank you. This worked. The clutch is good and working now! Somehow though when doing the cluch, I've knocked something, as now my all fine working electrics (headlights, sidelights and front indicators), all now want to play around! No indicators flash, sidelights flash and headlights want to come on randomally! :D Another project to look at! But still, keep smiling, onwards and upwards, and thanks again for the clutch info
Hey, i have a bit of a boggle. I have a 650Vstrom but it's basically the same thing. When adjusting the free play to spec ~13-15 mm, and going for a test run, I hear a but of gear noise when going in neutral (similar to 1st gear running sound). If i release it to more than the prescribed free play, the sound dimms next to no sound. With the prescribed free play it changes perfectly, no more issues with changing gears (especially 1-N-2), but I'm concerned about that noise. Wasn't there before adjustments.
your goal is fully engaged when you're off the lever and fully disengaged when you're on the lever. the amount of play doesn't matter so much as that there is some. noise in neutral could have been an incomplete shift or clutch rattle or anything else (no way to guess over the internet)
Great video matey. Ive been meaning to do mine but the middle screw has snapped on mine. Do you know if i can pull it all the way out and replace it with another screw without it all coming apart
The mechanism is fairly simple and doesn't tend to fall apart if you have a good code of grease on everything I haven't taken mine all the way apart but it looks like it would I know that he sells these on his website at a reasonable price
Very helpful video. Could it help with my curvy not shifting easily into neutral when it's warmed up? It basically requires such force when being stationary that it just hops into next gear. Colder it's a bit better. Already replaced the oil and made sure it's not overfilled. Also, I think that it's a standard on these bikes, but does your 6th gear whine when riding? I already have really loud pipes but I hear that :)
I dont think gear whines. It may be the chain? As far as hard to shift, yeah if the clutch doesnt fully disengage it will be hard. Does the bike try to go forward a bit when you have the clutch in?
@@Mad8vCycles I've heard it whine on other videos always in the 6th gear. Yeah it does ever so slightly tug forward, but I thought it's always the case with wet clutches, since all my bikes jerked foward when selecting first gear :)
About to try this out on my 2020 sv. Been having some issues with getting into 2nd from 1st at 5000-7000rpm. I assume it was because my bike was pushed over last year snapping the lever and bending the bar a bit. New pazzo levers on it now! Luckily I had my bars locked and my foot peg caught most of the damage
@@anthonywannup so it was a double whammy, the shifter linkage was bent and catching on the frame when I was shifting which explains the lockout when shifting up and not down. The clutch was also loose because of the snapped handle so I tightened that. Super easy fix and works great now
Question for you. I just got myself a 2003 sv650 with 5,440 miles. Was stored with all original things on the bike except the exhaust pipe ( the bike has some makeshift long pipe ) I'm the 4th owner of this bike. The original owners put most of the miles the other 2 didn't really ride. So my question is are these bikes a bit rough to shift? When I come to a stop and waiting for the light I'll want to put in N but it'll go to 2nd then I'm gently push down and goes to 1st and see the N pass by and it's hard to get. It's possible to do it if I'm still rolling and I put it it N. But at a stand still a bit harder to catch. My clutch lever does have more play than yours does.
The major and minor clutch adjustment is maxed out on my 05 SV650N. I got the bike like this. I'm wondering if it might need a new clutch cable? Or maybe previous owner got the one for the S model instead of the Naked
@@Mad8vCycles Yeah, so like I followed every step in your video with bottoming both adjustments out. Then loosening the worm gear locknut, then tightening screw until I feel resistance, and then backing off an 1/8 of a turn. Then I have to screw major adjustment all the way up, and bring the barrel lever all the way out at the clutch lever to get a good disengagement point for the clutch
Hi! Just tried this on my SV. I adjusted the handle to the right amount of play, but still when the bike is in neutral it gives some kind of knocking noise from the engine, when I slightly disengage the clutch it stops knocking. Any ideas? Thanks!
On the actuator my adjuster screw is pretty far in already and my bike has never had this adjusted How far was your screw out I've just replaced my clutch cable also
@@Mad8vCycles I took out my venhill new clutch cable measured it up against my stock suzuki cable its a lot longer that will explain why I ain't getting any adjustment. Put back in the stock stretched cable and works fine 🙂
So my cable is stretched. I’ve run out of adjustment at the top. I’ve run out of adjustment at the bottom end of the cable. I’ve done 60,000km. Do I have any options?
Actually I don’t think it’s the cable. I’ve tighten both ends so tight and there is no free play in the clutch. So why am I tightening if I have no free play ? Well my issue is that when I’m in 1st gear I can no longer roll the bike around anymore
@@michaelinzitari cold bike or warmed up? cold they often drag for sure. are your brakes dragging? does the clutch worm have all the bearings in it? and clutch plates could be stuck together as well. (theres a vid on replacing clutch,it's not hard just a bit messy)
this would be the first thing i'd do... and the next would be swapping clutch plates (theyre cheap and not particularly hard to do, just gotta drain the oil/coolant and probably replace the clutch cover gasket). i have a video on doing it.
Hi, I bought a use 1st gen Sv 650s. Previous owner said he had it sitting for a year or so. I’m Having problem starting it. I might to change the friction plats for the clutch, could that prevent it from starting.
Clutch wouldnt affect startup. To idle in neutral it would need: Air, fuel, spark, timing... so troubleshoot based on that... if it sat, id bet the carbs are gummed up and the battery is dead
@@Mad8vCycles This is not exactly true. To start the Suzuki SV650 you have to push in the clutch. On my model, the cable was so out of adjustment that the Suzuki did not detect the clutch so that the starter did not even react. After adjusting the cable everything returned to normal and it was possible to start the bike.
My SV650 having trouble 50% of the time doesn’t want to upshift into 3rd Have to let off the shifter then goes in on the second try? Any ideas, think I should perform the mantra? Thanks
@@Mad8vCycles turns out i overfilled the oil! Oddly enough I still have you to thank!! You mentioned it could cause the clutch To stick in another comment in your video on the damaging effects wheelies can cause to the sv650. Thanks Buddy you saved my day.
@@samboles8796 I've always heard/read that prolonged wheelies will starve the front cylinder of oil, not sure if there's any danger of short power wheelies though.
@@Mad8vCyclesalso i cant give enojgh tension to the cable even using all the thred on the adjuster close to the actuator. I still have to use 80% of all the thread on the clutch lever...cable is new and changed by a pro mechanic.
@@Mad8vCycles and how can i change that? today i remkved it, cleaned, all the bearings are there, packed with fress grease and reinstalled. situation persiste. Can ride the bike perfectly, smooth vear changes but all thread used at main adjuster and almost all at the lever adjuster. Its driving me mad because i have done far more complex services on my bikes but cant figure out what is wrong with this!
Thanks for this video as I have never fully understood how to properly adjust the clutch using the worm drive mechanism that pushes on the pushrod 👀
Your video is extremely clear and takes you through the (how too's) and step by steps on how to achieve this so again a massive thank you 🥳
You don't have to remove the shifter linkage to take the sprocket cover off, you can just push the shifter down into 1st and you have enough room to wiggle it out.
Enjoyed watching and learning from your videos! Also appreciate all the help you give to others, including myself on forums!
Ah thank you so much for this. Any time I replace a clutch cable on a bike, from now on, I'm gonna loosen the clutch worm first thing, Makes removal and installation of the cable so much easier and adjusting the cable, firstly, via the clutch worm, makes fine tuning where the lever finds the bite point, so much easier. Great video.
Great video. Getting some drag with the clutch lever pulled in so I'll give this a go tonight.
It's funny you posted this today because guess what I'm working on today lol
Just a tip..... slide a screwdriver in the slot of the locking ring (at the handle adjust), then tighten the ring by pulling on the screwdriver and thus spreading the locking ring a little. When doing it like this the ring will lock itself in place when you take the screwdriver out. Besides it won't leave any marks on the ring. 👍🤗
good idea! i just use pliers cause i dont care about the scratches. definitely gonna save that one for if i ever work on a shiny bike
Great video! Thanks!
THE SV guy, awesome video thanks for doing mate
Just did mine after putting on a new lever, thanks for the info!
Hey matey. I unscrewed that middle bolt out all the way and it stays in one piece. Ive replaced it with an hex bolt for easy ajusting next time
I'm buying one tomorrow, these videos are gold
I came back to this video to see if it might help me address why I'm having some hard shifts. I also wanted to lubricate the clutch cable so I fully removed it. I didn't see anything too wrong on the controls side, but I did notice I'm missing 2 of the ~9 ball bearings inside the worm gear bore... thing. Lovely. It seems to function fine, but I'll try to address that over the offseason.
I actually think the hard shifts are because I've been overfilling the oil and that's why it gets better over the course of a multi-day track event as some of the oil gets consumed. Or maybe it's crash damage and something bent when I went over. Or maybe I just suck at shifting. Who knows.
Great vid--this one really helps supplement the manual well and I feel much more confident than if I had just interpreted the manual on my own. Cheers.
If you need some bearings i think i have some spares kicking around somewhere
@@Mad8vCycles Next time I put in order in with you, I'll ask if you could add a few of them to the order. At the very least I'll be buying a new set of Vesrah RJL's from you for next season. My "To Buy" list is getting a little out of control so I need to give it some thought first as to what's most important to buy.
I'll be trying out some Pirelli SC3 Track Days this weekend for the first time. We'll see if I'm actually quick enough to put heat in them or not.
No more vesrahs :( except one street set. Theyre basically break-even for me so not worth tying up a giant pile of cash in inventoy
@@Mad8vCycles Darn--makes sense not to carry them though. Gonna need some big Vesrah exec to come in and get that mad8 distributor discount down.
I know I want to snag another "sprocket carrier spacer 1g sv650 99-02" which it looks like you've got a bunch of. I'll wait until my shopping list gets a little more complete though.
Gen2 valve check would be nice. I mean I COULD just follow the manual but that's no fun.
Will do when i do mine :]
2nd
Thanks for this. The day I bought my sv650 the guys kid broke the clutch cable. He ordered a new one and put it in but it wasn't quite right. I got it all adjusted now but it still is a nightmare to get neutral if it's running skips right past it every time. I've only ever got it into neutral like 4 times and twice was by hand. Same kid did put 6 quarts of oil in the bike Nad I had to drain it out and I've not ridden it yet only let it run a few times and just a couple little rolls here in my yard so it could just need driven but yeah.
neutral is always a bitch. a longer shifter linkage helps that a little but it's really kind of a pain on every bike
@@Mad8vCyclesmine easily shifted into neutral until yesterday. Now I can’t get it into neutral at all. 😔 Going to try adjusting per your video and see if that helps.
I wonder if you bent the shifter rod ir something
Great how-to. Thanks!
Great video... just bought a 2009 sv..
Great video! Thank you, very useful.
Excellent video. I never knew the worm gear could be adjusted. Anyway like your self I track not race an 06 as well and I noticed your clutch cable going straight in to the barrel nut sans the 90degree metal cable tube that is on mine. I am having some trouble with the clutch lever being a bit stiff and read that a straight cable will alleviate that. I am wondering where you got your cable or if you just made one your self. Thanks and great job on covering everything SV!
it's a spears clutch cable www.spearsenterprises.com/product/straight-clutch-cable-suzuki-sv650-1999-2013/
which i'm sure is some gsxr or something cable but i dont know the original part number
Thank you very much great video and now it’s perfect
Thanks man !! Great video. Saved me $300
hell yeah :) now use that money on some fresh tires and hit it :)
your the best! did as you showed and my clutch is Perfect now!
This was very well explained! Thank you so much. I'm buying some new levers and intend to adjust the freeplay once I install them.
Another great video. Thank you again!
Thanks for sharing this video!
I like your videos a lot. Doesn't really matter :) it did help me so much
Thanks a lot this was really helpful
Glad it helped
Thanks, will hit my DL with this! 👍🏻
Thanks as usual for a thorough and excellent video. just took mine apart and noticed the major adjustment is also all the way out as well as the barrel adjuster. Is this usually a sign the clutch is worn out and in need of replacement? No problem throwing in a new clutch and gasket (looks like a pretty easy and not too expensive diy repair) but the clutch isn’t slipping or anything. Is there any other common issue that can cause this or just normal wear. I’m the turd owner 30,000 miles on the bike rides beautifully and shifting hasn’t been an issue but would rather not have zero adjustment left.
likely id say a worn cable rather than bad clutch
You’re the best!
Thanks for this! I'm gunna have to give this a try! Bike went into a garage to get two new sprockets and a chain, but they said on collection, "whille adjusting the sprockets, we almost lost your clutch, and it didn't look right. So we altered it."
Now it doesn't disengage at all.
They were closing so I couldn't take the bike back and I was 60miles from home! What would you do!
So thanks for this big time, this maybe something I can do with your explaination and visuals :)
Keep smiling
I think your shop is a bit... confused.
They had one job to do and made a mess of another
@@Mad8vCycles I know, and they were 'recommended' but how do I get them to resort it all out? Exactly.... more cost. He said something will need sorting, or changing down there behind the sprocket cover for the clutch bit.
Can't remember what it was called.
But figured either put it in another garage, or do it myself. So thanks again
If it's a seal or clutch actuator worm gear theyre pretty cheap and easy to do. Ive got vids on how clutches work and how to swap a seal
@@Mad8vCycles Just wanted to say thank you. This worked. The clutch is good and working now! Somehow though when doing the cluch, I've knocked something, as now my all fine working electrics (headlights, sidelights and front indicators), all now want to play around! No indicators flash, sidelights flash and headlights want to come on randomally! :D
Another project to look at!
But still, keep smiling, onwards and upwards, and thanks again for the clutch info
Left control pod short? Or connector for it?
Hey, i have a bit of a boggle.
I have a 650Vstrom but it's basically the same thing.
When adjusting the free play to spec ~13-15 mm, and going for a test run, I hear a but of gear noise when going in neutral (similar to 1st gear running sound).
If i release it to more than the prescribed free play, the sound dimms next to no sound.
With the prescribed free play it changes perfectly, no more issues with changing gears (especially 1-N-2), but I'm concerned about that noise. Wasn't there before adjustments.
your goal is fully engaged when you're off the lever and fully disengaged when you're on the lever. the amount of play doesn't matter so much as that there is some.
noise in neutral could have been an incomplete shift or clutch rattle or anything else (no way to guess over the internet)
Great video matey. Ive been meaning to do mine but the middle screw has snapped on mine. Do you know if i can pull it all the way out and replace it with another screw without it all coming apart
The mechanism is fairly simple and doesn't tend to fall apart if you have a good code of grease on everything I haven't taken mine all the way apart but it looks like it would I know that he sells these on his website at a reasonable price
@@danisyx5804 I'll give it a go tomorrow. There about £55 here in the uk for a replacement
@@motorcyclewild5873 us shipping from me might be worthwhile... mad8v.com and search "worm"
@@Mad8vCycles cheers pal. If it goes to pot I'll get in touch
The part you have in is for the year of my bike too👍👍
Very helpful video. Could it help with my curvy not shifting easily into neutral when it's warmed up? It basically requires such force when being stationary that it just hops into next gear. Colder it's a bit better. Already replaced the oil and made sure it's not overfilled. Also, I think that it's a standard on these bikes, but does your 6th gear whine when riding? I already have really loud pipes but I hear that :)
I dont think gear whines. It may be the chain?
As far as hard to shift, yeah if the clutch doesnt fully disengage it will be hard. Does the bike try to go forward a bit when you have the clutch in?
Also take a look at the shift linkage angle (rod and linkage should be as close to 90* as possible)
@@Mad8vCycles I've heard it whine on other videos always in the 6th gear. Yeah it does ever so slightly tug forward, but I thought it's always the case with wet clutches, since all my bikes jerked foward when selecting first gear :)
About to try this out on my 2020 sv. Been having some issues with getting into 2nd from 1st at 5000-7000rpm. I assume it was because my bike was pushed over last year snapping the lever and bending the bar a bit. New pazzo levers on it now! Luckily I had my bars locked and my foot peg caught most of the damage
3g is a little different
@@Mad8vCycles I ended up finding some directions on an SV forum as well for 3rd gens. Worked like a charm though once I got everything tight.
What Was the issue finally ? Thks !
@@anthonywannup so it was a double whammy, the shifter linkage was bent and catching on the frame when I was shifting which explains the lockout when shifting up and not down. The clutch was also loose because of the snapped handle so I tightened that. Super easy fix and works great now
@@brynziegeman4203 okay, thanks a lot ! Glad you find out what the problem was ✌️
Question for you. I just got myself a 2003 sv650 with 5,440 miles. Was stored with all original things on the bike except the exhaust pipe ( the bike has some makeshift long pipe ) I'm the 4th owner of this bike. The original owners put most of the miles the other 2 didn't really ride. So my question is are these bikes a bit rough to shift? When I come to a stop and waiting for the light I'll want to put in N but it'll go to 2nd then I'm gently push down and goes to 1st and see the N pass by and it's hard to get. It's possible to do it if I'm still rolling and I put it it N. But at a stand still a bit harder to catch. My clutch lever does have more play than yours does.
neutral is a bitch to find on most bikes. i just hold the clutch in at lights. but the whole 1-2-1-2-1-2-N game is pretty standard.
@@Mad8vCycles I've also hit false neutrals in different gears. My clutch lever has about 1 inch of play.
The major and minor clutch adjustment is maxed out on my 05 SV650N. I got the bike like this. I'm wondering if it might need a new clutch cable? Or maybe previous owner got the one for the S model instead of the Naked
What about the worm gear adjustment?
Getting the wrong cable wouldnt matter for adjustment so much it would just be binding up or in the way
@@Mad8vCycles Yeah, so like I followed every step in your video with bottoming both adjustments out. Then loosening the worm gear locknut, then tightening screw until I feel resistance, and then backing off an 1/8 of a turn. Then I have to screw major adjustment all the way up, and bring the barrel lever all the way out at the clutch lever to get a good disengagement point for the clutch
Probably new cable time then :(
Could it be the aftermarket handlebars, which are shorter than stock?
Bars wouldnt really affect cable actuation
Isn’t there a locking tab down where you adjust the worm that needs bending over ?
the barrel thing for retaining the bearings has a couple tabs bent on it, but nothing to bend onto the nut
Hi! Just tried this on my SV. I adjusted the handle to the right amount of play, but still when the bike is in neutral it gives some kind of knocking noise from the engine, when I slightly disengage the clutch it stops knocking. Any ideas? Thanks!
check the plates?
nothing about getting correct angle on worm drive as per workshop manual
What bar set up do u have. I don't like the stock set up and want something aftermarket
I run vortex clipons on the race bikes. Stock clipons on the street bike
Hey! Can you make a video assembling and dissasebling and maintaining the clutch actuator?
Btw , nice video thanks for uploading!
It's 2 screws and just comes out. Check that all the bearings are there and just put some heavy grease. Not much to it tbh
On the actuator my adjuster screw is pretty far in already and my bike has never had this adjusted
How far was your screw out
I've just replaced my clutch cable also
as long as the nut still holds it in you're fine. will depend on clutch stack thickness too....
@@Mad8vCycles I took out my venhill new clutch cable measured it up against my stock suzuki cable its a lot longer that will explain why I ain't getting any adjustment. Put back in the stock stretched cable and works fine 🙂
@@MadNath weird... need to add some spacer or something to shorten it up
Is it important that it’s sitting in any particular gear? or Neutral?
Shouldnt matter
Omg you have amazing timing! Thank you thank you! Your initials are not S.S are they?
on facebook they are heh
So my cable is stretched. I’ve run out of adjustment at the top. I’ve run out of adjustment at the bottom end of the cable. I’ve done 60,000km. Do I have any options?
Actually I don’t think it’s the cable. I’ve tighten both ends so tight and there is no free play in the clutch. So why am I tightening if I have no free play ? Well my issue is that when I’m in 1st gear I can no longer roll the bike around anymore
@@michaelinzitari cold bike or warmed up? cold they often drag for sure.
are your brakes dragging?
does the clutch worm have all the bearings in it?
and clutch plates could be stuck together as well. (theres a vid on replacing clutch,it's not hard just a bit messy)
@@michaelinzitari but if the cable is full tight on both adjustments and the worm is adjusted in as well it may indeed be time for a cable
Would you do this to help if a clutch is slipping?
this would be the first thing i'd do... and the next would be swapping clutch plates (theyre cheap and not particularly hard to do, just gotta drain the oil/coolant and probably replace the clutch cover gasket). i have a video on doing it.
Hi, I bought a use 1st gen Sv 650s. Previous owner said he had it sitting for a year or so. I’m Having problem starting it. I might to change the friction plats for the clutch, could that prevent it from starting.
Clutch wouldnt affect startup. To idle in neutral it would need: Air, fuel, spark, timing... so troubleshoot based on that... if it sat, id bet the carbs are gummed up and the battery is dead
@@Mad8vCycles This is not exactly true. To start the Suzuki SV650 you have to push in the clutch. On my model, the cable was so out of adjustment that the Suzuki did not detect the clutch so that the starter did not even react. After adjusting the cable everything returned to normal and it was possible to start the bike.
@@kapitangleba9814 you can bypass the clutch switch.
My SV650
having trouble 50% of the time doesn’t want to upshift into 3rd
Have to let off the shifter then goes in on the second try?
Any ideas, think I should perform the mantra?
Thanks
id look at shift linkage and that the rod is straight. cause you dont really need the clutch to shift
@@Mad8vCycles turns out i overfilled the oil!
Oddly enough I still have you to thank!! You mentioned it could cause the clutch
To stick in another comment in your video on the damaging effects wheelies can cause to the sv650.
Thanks Buddy you saved my day.
@@samboles8796 glad to help!
@@samboles8796 I've always heard/read that prolonged wheelies will starve the front cylinder of oil, not sure if there's any danger of short power wheelies though.
@@bobrowley4346 nope no wheelies
I had overfilled the oil, turns out my bike does best when 1/8” below the “F” mark
where did you get the radiator? not stock right?
Just some chineseum trash
@@Mad8vCyclesalso i cant give enojgh tension to the cable even using all the thred on the adjuster close to the actuator. I still have to use 80% of all the thread on the clutch lever...cable is new and changed by a pro mechanic.
Worm gear is either positioned wrong or adjusted wrong
@@Mad8vCycles and how can i change that? today i remkved it, cleaned, all the bearings are there, packed with fress grease and reinstalled. situation persiste. Can ride the bike perfectly, smooth vear changes but all thread used at main adjuster and almost all at the lever adjuster. Its driving me mad because i have done far more complex services on my bikes but cant figure out what is wrong with this!
What are the forks from👀
theyre twfracing cartridges swapped into stock legs