Hi Jeff, I have watched this very detailed video about the valve body on the pdk and how to strip and assemble it. We are a workshop in South Africa unfortunately very far from you guys, I was hoping you could please point me in the right direction if you might have had this scenario before. I currently have a problem with a pdk and I suspect it is the valve body. We have replaced a few distance sensors and speed sensors on these gearboxes before, but this particular one that we have now has a P17D0 fault code and the vehicle had no gears at all. The fault code suggests it is either a hydraulic or a clutch problem when I follow the Porsche diagnostics chart. We have replaced the solenoids on the valve body and the vehicle now has drive and we could erase the fault code. But after driving for 20 minutes and stopping, all gears are lost and then the fault code returns. If we leave it until the next day, she will drive again and when we stop, we lose the drive again. It has progressed to the point where it doesn’t want to drive any more. We removed the box, removed the clutch, opened it and it looks as if there are no problems with the friction plate. Can you point me in the right direction?
I personally haven't come across this issue before, as my only experience is with the 981 transmission, and helping others online with their problems. It might be worthwhile creating a Rennlist account and posting at the thread linked below, as it's the place most go to for information and help. There are a few others who are quite knowledgeable there. I go by the handle jjrichar. Another by the handle Stjoh has a lot of experience, especially with the 9x7. I think the chances of it being a solenoid or VB problem are remote, as from what I've seen these tend to issues with distance or speed sensors that aren't appearing as such because the trigger values aren't exceeded. A few questions: Was a calibration with part replacement done after the solenoid replacement? When the car was working, did you log all actual values while driving until point of failure in an attempt to identify where the problem might be? rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/1172826-guide-to-repairing-a-pdk-transmission.html?ispreloading=1#
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Hi Jeff thank you for your reply. We did the oil level calibration but unfortunately on this gearbox, the autel machine allows all calibrations on the 981 but for some reason not on this one even though it is the same gearbox. No, sorry, unfortunately i didn't do a log. Regarding the speed sensor and distance sensor, my gut feel was that there was something wrong with the distance sensor as i have had a few failed distance sensors in the past and replaced them successfully, but i did communicate the fault code with the sensor supplier (t-design 9) and he was adamant that this fault code is not related to the distance sensor. Also when i followed the Porsche diagnostics chart, with that fault code, the result was to replace the valve body. In the meantime, i have removed the gearbox and opened the clutch to check - all checked fine. Now i have split the valve body and followed your detailed video and i found wear in valves 12, 13 and 14 in the bore. So i am not sure if this wear is excessive enough to cause it to fail but it does look significant by eye. I am considering doing a vacuum test on the valve body. What do you suggest?
How much time are really saving doing in the car? Ive done about 30 so far but have always removed trans. Is it worth the headache of keeping trans in car?
How much time total does it take you when removing the transmission from the car? No more than a day's work for a single tech remaining in the car. There are shops doing this all the time that quote 28 hrs min by removing.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy I'm not as fast as I used to be. It takes me about 10 hours to remove trans, splice in new distance and speed sensors, reassemble, reinstall and calibrate. 28 hours is ludacris.
@@darkgod79 Once you are happy with the process, I reckon you could do the whole thing in about 6 hours. The 911 seems to be easier than the Boxster/Cayman as the exhaust doesn't need to come off, and it's simply a case of disconnecting a few things and lowering at the front mount. The info we had from a shop in the US that did a large number of DS replacements was a minimum of 28 hours and up to 40 hours if there were complications. I'd spoken to people who had used their service and the charge, including a new DS only was about US$7000. We thought this was crazy, and one of the reasons I was keen to get as much info out to the public as I could.
Jeff, seeking your expertise. I have 2017,C2, PDK. While in park or at a stop I hear a rattle (like loose marbles or gravel) and I feel a slight engine stumble/vibration. If I put it in sport or sport+ the rattle and stumble is reduced. I tried to pin point where the noise was coming from, and If I put my hand on the PDK oil pan I can feel the vibration. I can also hear the rattle emanating from this area. The car shifts and drives well. Is this noise and vibration normal? Will a PDK fluid change help? Thanks
I've heard people report this before. I hear a similar thing from my 981S. I don't think there is anything in it. I think it's simply the clutch pack components vibrating when not engaged. It might be something to do with harmonic frequencies at this engine speed that selecting S/S+, and changing the engine speed, reduces. Don't know if a fluid change will fix this, but I'd always recommend it, as it's an essential part of maintenance.
Jeff, thanks for the feedback. I'm at 45k miles and will change the fluid and pan at 50k. I think I saw in one of your videos that PIWIS is not necessary. One more question, while I'm at it I plan to also change the gear oil. Do you recommend certain brand for the gear oil? @@jeffrichardsoncardiy
I'm in Australia and I use a local brand called Nulon. It really doesn't matter, as long as it's the correct spec. BTW, I personally don't worry about the pan/filter. The filter on any auto transmission, including the PDK is only for very coarse material and is designed to last the lifetime of the transmission. It's completely different to an engine oil filter, that is designed to filter out very fine particles, and will break apart over time if not replaced. I've cut open many auto trans filters and I always find they are complete empty of any debris. I used to replace filters regularly, but now I never do. Especially in the PDK where the rear subframe needs to be removed and the filter bolts are aluminium and need replacing. By contrast, fluid drain and fill is dead simple. Entirely your choice, but from my experience, I've made the decision to not bother.
I know this may sound simple, but it would be great if you can make a video specifically about the tool the design bolt specifications how it’s used to pull, how it used to push, it sounds simple, but I search the entire Internet and there’s no specific information on it your video would be the first
All the tool stuff is in the videos linked in the description. The rear casing video has all the basics and the distance sensor replacement video is for the Boxster/Cayman, but it contains a lot of essential knowledge.
Jeff, I really appreciate your videos, and well done for being so committed to these issues. I have a 997.2 and have an issue of fluctuating RPM when at constant part throttle, especially in gears 4th and higher. It looks on the tachometer as though the car is slightly slipping the clutch, although I dont feel this, as the RPM rises and falls by a 50 rpm as I drive along (I can also hear the change in engine note). So far, I have gone to porsche for a clutch pack reset, although I dont really know if they did it correctly, and also checked for error codes, which have only been P1990 -positive engine torque, intervention not possible. Have you heard of this error, and any tips? The PDK has been serviced about 5000 miles ago, and the problem started about 1000 miles ago.
I've not come across this fault before, but looking at the diagnostic information for this code, it says it's going to be either a CAN bus or engine problem. The indications you give of hunting engine RPM seem to indicate there might be an engine problem where it's getting fluctuating air or fuel maybe. I'd be looking at intake boots/manifold seals etc as the first thing. I'd also be driving with diagnostics attached and monitoring things like intake air volume, throttle position etc to see if there is something that stands out.
I am trying to make the tool, but I cannot find the specific thread and pitch for the two bolts in the middle and the four outer ones to remove the Cover, Can anyone please help, working on. 2WD base 911 2013
Four on outside are M10 x 1.5mm threaded rod. Get from a bolt supplier and cut to the correct length. Two on the inside I used M12, but these don't have to be a specific size. I used M12 as this would give plenty of strength to push out.
@@mikeyson1011 The M22 x 1.5 and M24 x 1.5 bolts are to install the rear cover. Look at the videos below, for which there are links above in this video description. th-cam.com/video/N7U_HG-SXKM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7ZpQ_qKbTDAAxw8Z&t=1097 th-cam.com/video/sSeghP7SYJQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Yf4UnUD7F0Q8HuQ_&t=891
Richard, thanks for this video.
Could you please provide a recommended supplier for the distance sensor?
Can you contact me on the channel email and I'll pass some details.
jjrichar12@gmail.com
thanks for the very informative videos.
for reference if you have the 2 transmission coolers you will need to pinch off the coolant hose for the cooler on the passenger side
Hi Jeff, I have watched this very detailed video about the valve body on the pdk and how to strip and assemble it. We are a workshop in South Africa unfortunately very far from you guys, I was hoping you could please point me in the right direction if you might have had this scenario before.
I currently have a problem with a pdk and I suspect it is the valve body. We have replaced a few distance sensors and speed sensors on these gearboxes before, but this particular one that we have now has a P17D0 fault code and the vehicle had no gears at all. The fault code suggests it is either a hydraulic or a clutch problem when I follow the Porsche diagnostics chart. We have replaced the solenoids on the valve body and the vehicle now has drive and we could erase the fault code. But after driving for 20 minutes and stopping, all gears are lost and then the fault code returns. If we leave it until the next day, she will drive again and when we stop, we lose the drive again. It has progressed to the point where it doesn’t want to drive any more. We removed the box, removed the clutch, opened it and it looks as if there are no problems with the friction plate. Can you point me in the right direction?
I personally haven't come across this issue before, as my only experience is with the 981 transmission, and helping others online with their problems. It might be worthwhile creating a Rennlist account and posting at the thread linked below, as it's the place most go to for information and help. There are a few others who are quite knowledgeable there. I go by the handle jjrichar. Another by the handle Stjoh has a lot of experience, especially with the 9x7.
I think the chances of it being a solenoid or VB problem are remote, as from what I've seen these tend to issues with distance or speed sensors that aren't appearing as such because the trigger values aren't exceeded.
A few questions:
Was a calibration with part replacement done after the solenoid replacement?
When the car was working, did you log all actual values while driving until point of failure in an attempt to identify where the problem might be?
rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/1172826-guide-to-repairing-a-pdk-transmission.html?ispreloading=1#
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Hi Jeff thank you for your reply. We did the oil level calibration but unfortunately on this gearbox, the autel machine allows all calibrations on the 981 but for some reason not on this one even though it is the same gearbox. No, sorry, unfortunately i didn't do a log. Regarding the speed sensor and distance sensor, my gut feel was that there was something wrong with the distance sensor as i have had a few failed distance sensors in the past and replaced them successfully, but i did communicate the fault code with the sensor supplier (t-design 9) and he was adamant that this fault code is not related to the distance sensor. Also when i followed the Porsche diagnostics chart, with that fault code, the result was to replace the valve body. In the meantime, i have removed the gearbox and opened the clutch to check - all checked fine. Now i have split the valve body and followed your detailed video and i found wear in valves 12, 13 and 14 in the bore. So i am not sure if this wear is excessive enough to cause it to fail but it does look significant by eye. I am considering doing a vacuum test on the valve body. What do you suggest?
How much time are really saving doing in the car? Ive done about 30 so far but have always removed trans. Is it worth the headache of keeping trans in car?
How much time total does it take you when removing the transmission from the car? No more than a day's work for a single tech remaining in the car. There are shops doing this all the time that quote 28 hrs min by removing.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy I'm not as fast as I used to be. It takes me about 10 hours to remove trans, splice in new distance and speed sensors, reassemble, reinstall and calibrate. 28 hours is ludacris.
@@darkgod79 Once you are happy with the process, I reckon you could do the whole thing in about 6 hours. The 911 seems to be easier than the Boxster/Cayman as the exhaust doesn't need to come off, and it's simply a case of disconnecting a few things and lowering at the front mount.
The info we had from a shop in the US that did a large number of DS replacements was a minimum of 28 hours and up to 40 hours if there were complications. I'd spoken to people who had used their service and the charge, including a new DS only was about US$7000. We thought this was crazy, and one of the reasons I was keen to get as much info out to the public as I could.
Jeff, seeking your expertise. I have 2017,C2, PDK. While in park or at a stop I hear a rattle (like loose marbles or gravel) and I feel a slight engine stumble/vibration. If I put it in sport or sport+ the rattle and stumble is reduced. I tried to pin point where the noise was coming from, and If I put my hand on the PDK oil pan I can feel the vibration. I can also hear the rattle emanating from this area. The car shifts and drives well. Is this noise and vibration normal? Will a PDK fluid change help? Thanks
I've heard people report this before. I hear a similar thing from my 981S. I don't think there is anything in it. I think it's simply the clutch pack components vibrating when not engaged. It might be something to do with harmonic frequencies at this engine speed that selecting S/S+, and changing the engine speed, reduces. Don't know if a fluid change will fix this, but I'd always recommend it, as it's an essential part of maintenance.
Jeff, thanks for the feedback. I'm at 45k miles and will change the fluid and pan at 50k. I think I saw in one of your videos that PIWIS is not necessary. One more question, while I'm at it I plan to also change the gear oil. Do you recommend certain brand for the gear oil? @@jeffrichardsoncardiy
I'm in Australia and I use a local brand called Nulon. It really doesn't matter, as long as it's the correct spec. BTW, I personally don't worry about the pan/filter. The filter on any auto transmission, including the PDK is only for very coarse material and is designed to last the lifetime of the transmission. It's completely different to an engine oil filter, that is designed to filter out very fine particles, and will break apart over time if not replaced.
I've cut open many auto trans filters and I always find they are complete empty of any debris. I used to replace filters regularly, but now I never do. Especially in the PDK where the rear subframe needs to be removed and the filter bolts are aluminium and need replacing. By contrast, fluid drain and fill is dead simple.
Entirely your choice, but from my experience, I've made the decision to not bother.
I know this may sound simple, but it would be great if you can make a video specifically about the tool the design bolt specifications how it’s used to pull, how it used to push, it sounds simple, but I search the entire Internet and there’s no specific information on it your video would be the first
All the tool stuff is in the videos linked in the description. The rear casing video has all the basics and the distance sensor replacement video is for the Boxster/Cayman, but it contains a lot of essential knowledge.
Jeff, I really appreciate your videos, and well done for being so committed to these issues. I have a 997.2 and have an issue of fluctuating RPM when at constant part throttle, especially in gears 4th and higher. It looks on the tachometer as though the car is slightly slipping the clutch, although I dont feel this, as the RPM rises and falls by a 50 rpm as I drive along (I can also hear the change in engine note). So far, I have gone to porsche for a clutch pack reset, although I dont really know if they did it correctly, and also checked for error codes, which have only been P1990 -positive engine torque, intervention not possible. Have you heard of this error, and any tips? The PDK has been serviced about 5000 miles ago, and the problem started about 1000 miles ago.
I've not come across this fault before, but looking at the diagnostic information for this code, it says it's going to be either a CAN bus or engine problem. The indications you give of hunting engine RPM seem to indicate there might be an engine problem where it's getting fluctuating air or fuel maybe. I'd be looking at intake boots/manifold seals etc as the first thing. I'd also be driving with diagnostics attached and monitoring things like intake air volume, throttle position etc to see if there is something that stands out.
I am trying to make the tool, but I cannot find the specific thread and pitch for the two bolts in the middle and the four outer ones to remove the Cover, Can anyone please help, working on. 2WD base 911 2013
Four on outside are M10 x 1.5mm threaded rod. Get from a bolt supplier and cut to the correct length. Two on the inside I used M12, but these don't have to be a specific size. I used M12 as this would give plenty of strength to push out.
you say they are M12 but the thread is it 1.25, 1.50??
In another video, someone mentioned M22, M24 what are this referring to?
@@mikeyson1011 The M22 x 1.5 and M24 x 1.5 bolts are to install the rear cover. Look at the videos below, for which there are links above in this video description.
th-cam.com/video/N7U_HG-SXKM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7ZpQ_qKbTDAAxw8Z&t=1097
th-cam.com/video/sSeghP7SYJQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Yf4UnUD7F0Q8HuQ_&t=891
you rock!!! thank you