REALLY Cheap RC Vs Expensive RC Comparison! All Metal MN Models D90 Vs MN96.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2020
- So the ALL Metal MN Models MN99s took to the dirt next to my Bargain $25 MN96 off Amazon! (They are normally about $50). Anyway... here they are side by side!
All Metal MN Models Chassis:
www.banggood.com/1-or-12-All-...
Buy the MN96 here ($50):
www.banggood.com/MN-Model-MN9...
MN99s (The Best 'Cheap' RTR out the box!)
www.banggood.com/MN99s-A-RTR-...
Driveshafts I use for WPL & MN Models:
www.banggood.com/Transmission...
My TH-cam Tool: www.tubebuddy.com/youtube000
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The weight deffanetly makes a difference, these are both winners for their price points for sure . Thanks for another fantastic video 💪💪👍👍
Yes, what a bargain the MN96 was!
Nice comparison. I'm impressed how well the expensive version performed with those tires. Especially with the rainy weather making the stuff slippery. Thanx for sharing 😎👍
Cheers Jon, yes it surprised me as well!
I'm glad you posted this. Just a few weeks ago, my MN99s arrived and I immediately headed to the bench to swap chassis with my WPL C24. My only issue at the moment is the fact that I'm still awaiting the arrival of the shock towers for the chassis. So, mine sits about 1CM higher than it should. If I could make a recommendation, use the original MN99s tires. Being so soft, larger diameter, and pliable, they really grab on and help with virtually everything. It still tips over, sure. But only in situations where the flex gets overrun by the top heavy nature of the Landy. (I left my rack and full back cover on the D90) I did a video on the swap - at first I wasn't psyched about doing it as I kept running into hurdle after hurdle. I stuck with it and I couldn't be happier. Plus, the C24 on the MN99s suspension with a 260 motor, is an absolute beast.
Yes, there is lots of little tweaks you can do to make these work some much better.
I have the mn-96 and I didn't buy it thinking that it is a crawler. I love the way it looks and I know what it was meant for. Now, that metal kit...omg. that has moved up to #3 on my list. Smh I'm never going to finish my 2 project trucks. Thanks a lot! Lol
Yes, they are good trail trucks, but with a bit of weight & power, they are not bad crawlers
I agree. Definitely looks like it's performance spiked and it looks incredible. It's on my Christmas list to Santa. Lol.
Brilliant thanks for sharing your videos,new plane will have to wait,got to get myself a crawler.👍😁🔥🔥🔥
No problem mate 😀
Super comparison Bro! Very nice video! Metal and km are really nice to me!!
Thanks mate
Brilliant vid as always pal, got a few upgrades on order for my Wpl 24c
Thanks Simon
Even with all that weight low down bloody thing still tips over. Must admit I wasn't expecting there to be as pronounced a difference! 😨👍
Yes, it needs weight in the wheels really
@@TomleyRC move those shock tops inboard will move a lot of the weight down lower and gain a bunch of flex too.
Great trucks I have one with metal axles looks like a nice area to run them on great video mate as always 👍
It's a bit of a dumping ground, but ideal for these little trucks :)
Cool RCs the metal one looks awesome
3rd time watching .i really like how the metal looks ..going to have to buy some upgrades for the 2 that are in the post 99a .kool truck
Oh yes thats great the aluminum makes it more stable deffinetly like that one. Did think much of mn series but this is something to be looked into further
mine was a very early release now upgraded a BUNCH gets around really well.
That's a good looking truck. Sort the steering and tyres and it's good.
Yes agree... a few tweaks needed
My sentiments exactly, I thought man that's one good looking truck and for it to perform like that with street tires is all the more impressive. upgraded steering servo and tx rx allowing adjustable steering this would be an awesome mini crawler.
I use to run straight up road tyres on My Jimny an on the beach it never got bogged, then I stuck some All Terrain on, much better on trails than the street tyres were, but back on the beach with the ATs it often digs itself in?
Never heard of the MN96, might have to take a looksie.
Great Show Tomely.
Thanks mate
This is great. Thanks!
Thanks Russ
Nice comparison.
I prefer the Wpl 2 speed over the reduction box.
If you change the shocks angle you can get more flex.
Yes, that’s the plan for the WPL one... get more flex
yup, weight makes traction. those shocks do look like the A285004's, mount the tops to the inboard tray holes will soften it right up with a lot more flex... the holes towards the gearbox about 1-1/8" from stock shock mounting holes, the body+frame will drop down 1/4" or a little more. if the cheaper one has the 260 motor+gearbox, a 280 slips right in for 3 bucks will give a lot more torque with a lower top speed too, allowing you to give it quite a bit of wheel weighting on the rims. the ESC definitely acting up, cleaning with a toothbrush may or not help, but those little 20A ESC are only about 4 bucks anyway.
Yes needs few tweaks to get it right. The WPL version has decent tyres and looks a little nicer. That one is getting some mods to increase flex, and drivability
Phil I have a mn99 didn’t you use the axel mounted servo or did the servo hit the servo tray when it’s mounted on the axel
Really love this mn, but I'm within a low budget so I think I'll just go for the mn99
Stock MN99 is a good truck!
I'm looking at getting this for my MN 99s. I swapped out to the wpl v3 +370 2 speed motor. I had purchased metal axles for it but they fell apart and I was not impressed. Put my stock ones back on and promptly stripped the hubs.
I have an MN90 kit and you'd need to spend about $50 - $80 on top of the normal price to make it decent. The full metal one looks decent and is quite capable. I think the RGTs are even better if you have the budget. Great video as always👍🏼
stock looking metal axle casings, 13 bucks. metal axle gears 8 bucks. metal drive shafts 7 bucks. four A285004 oil filled shocks 12 bucks. there went 40 bucks, not counting Fayee rims+tires, or the solder wrapped to the rims for wheel weight. yes about 50 bucks extra to get one performing decently, they'll nickle and dime ya until its really built good.
The new MN RTRs are a much better option
Cool comparison but if I'm honest I would choose the cheaper version 😜 with an extra £10 for a cheap rx and ESC and some wheel weights it would be 10 times better .
Can’t go wrong for the money on the cheap ones!
Nice defender MN 😍😍
Thanks mate
I bet if the expensive one’s shocks were setup a little softer that would help it out a lot because it sets so high. But cool video.
Yes, although restricted more because of the shock position and shock shaft length
Are the wheel 1.9? I have the all metal chassis being delivered in a few days and I think I'll want to swap the tires out out right away.
The metal version makes it look easier I will definitely go for the metal version
There are metal portal axles for this model... looks amazing... and your build is great, even with those non-off-roadie-wheels! =)
Where can you buy MN99 white bonnets? Mine's a bit cracked and I'd like to try and replace it.
I prefer the standard chassis height of the cheaper version, with the of the peg mods which adds to the fun of rc, ok better motor gear box, but still top heavy which in Land Rover terms not great! I have mine in out of box condition but waiting for things to brake (parts in bags) still working ok after 9 months.
PS, height those wheels, looks cheap & unrealistic
Yes agree. Needs to come down a bit and have proper tyres. The WPL version looks a little better
I bought all metal parts for my mn99s so it's very similar to the expensive one. But I'm having issues with the drive line binding, especially on full lock. It's going to take plenty of fiddling to get the setup to work,... And then is like more power and a 2 speed 😂
The thumnail says $160 for the all metal. I've been looking at the mn 99s for a while and would like to have the metal version if i can. New to this though. Whatesle do i need to buy along with the metal chassis. Bearing in mind thats £125 alone what would the full build cost?
Lack of wheel weights on the metal version. Thats why it roll over. The weight of the transmission+motor, servo plate, metal bumper is too high versus the weight of the wheels
top of shocks mount location has it UP over 1/4" too high as well
Where can you get the rear bumper with the hitch?
Well the Cheaper one done really well for the price 😲 the metal one is great and yeah with the decent tyres would be even better 😀 sort the Flex out like you said 👍 laughed at the Dictionary check lol 😆 should be a word 🤣😉 great entertaining comparison video again Phil 👍 really enjoyed every minute, Big thumbs up Mate 👍😎👍
Haha thanks Tony. I might make that my word and ™️ it haha
OffRoady™️
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I was stupid forgot my password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Philip Taylor Instablaster =)
@Reed Jose thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Reed Jose It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account!
Good video as always, What electronics where you using in them both pal? Is it stock in the cheapy and something else powering the 370?
Stock MN99s in the metal one, stock MN96 in cheap one
There’s me baby 👍👍👍👍👍
Enjoy :)
Would anyone know what the cheapest place in the UK for wpl and stuff is ?
anyone know if the metal cnc axles are as wide as the original plastic mn shafts? I mean those sold as for mn not the wpl or they are the same axles
I’m pretty sure they are the same for both
SUBE OTRO VIDEO DEL TITANIC .👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏
It isn't about the tires it is about the weight sitting on them. More weight gives more traction
Full metal version doesn't come with a body does it? Does the 96 come with proportional steering?
No body. And yes, MN96 is fully proportional
Wow that did surprise me, though i thought the mn96 came with a smaller motor than the 99, or was it just smaller tyres ??
Smaller tyres mate. Comes with the same 260 motor that the MN99 has 👍
Need advice! I need to rebuild my stock Fayee Fy03. I want something more durable and faster. I'm thinking about buying C24KM and put it on that chassis. But won't it be too narrow? Is the mn and wpl same width?
Just go for the new FY003-1
I have the new FY003-1 coming, so we’ll see what that is like
Tomley RC an me buddy let’s hope it turns up as I’m still waiting for the mn40.... 9 weeks and still nothing... 😢😢😢
Nice video mate! :D How good are these MN Tires you have on the cheap one compared to the soft WPL tires? I'm currently building a scale crawler Tamiya Lunchbox and I'm not that happy with the grip of the stock WPL tires. Trimming the tire profile helped a bit but maybe there are just better ones on the market. :)
how I do, clip out the rows of 3 dots from center, clip 2 x 2 mm from corresponding narrower corner lugs. next is sawing off inner tire beads from spare rims, sanding mating surfaces flat, then CA to the outside faces for "deep dish" stock rims that are 4 mm wider than original. with the tire beads further apart: the sidewalls are nearer flat/vertical, center tread barely perceptible but slightly concave to be softer, so the un-trimmed wider corner lugs bite into the ground more+better. do both the tires and rims for the full effect to happen. kit tires are softer and better traction on dry surfaces, but having more silicone in them they get slippery on wet surfaces. the RTR tires are stiffer but have more real rubber, if you bag them wet with WD-40 about 5 hours, pinching twisting and stretching each about 3 minutes every hour... they'll soften up and swell some too, so you'll need to glue them to the rims (strong rubber cement works). the RTR tires can give better traction on wet surfaces, so they might be the better choice with the weight of the Lunchbox body on the tires sidewalls. peeled a tire off the C-24 in the "flex Flex FLEX" video to show the rim, did a quick description how the tires do their flex+bite thing in the "C-24 with mods" video if you want to kinda see what I'm typing.. but to really know, you have to try the stuff. when you wrap a finger down the center tread pressing+pulling you'll feel a BIG difference in how the tires want to grab. not difficult, not expensive, doesn't take too much time doing. it makes the tires (outside corner to corner) stance about 3/16" wider total when on the axles isn't a whole lot but helps stability a little bit anyway too.
@@modelnutty6503 Thank you very much for your detailed description!! Widening the tires is a super cool idea, since I 3D Printed the rims of the Lunchbox to fit the HSP Kulak Axles (yes it's not a WPL Chassis). I can just add the extra 4mm in the CAD model. I watched your video - first of all these are some nice trucks!! Unfortunately I can't see which part of the tire exactly you are trimming. Anyway, your tip with the WD40 bath is very interesting. What does the oil do with the rubber to make it softer? And do these "soaked" tires lose their softness and grip over time? Thank you! ~ Robert
Would you recommend mn or wpl as a first budget crawler that would also be a good base for upgrades?
my fav is still the original WPL C-14, especially after the upgrades. newer kits already have the b-36 gearbox and metal axle gears, just needs metal drive shafts for 7 bucks, 9 wraps 2 mm solder between the front rim tire beads (3 wide 3 deep and stretch electrical tape over it with a spot of CA at the end). I've described how to make longer rods for the shocks a few times, costs about 2 bucks to do and increases flex a lot for spending so little. wider with more offset slightly taller Fayee rims+tires are 5-6 bucks a set of 4. you could go A285004 oil filled shocks with lighter springs, but the longer shock rod mod is really plenty and a lot easier spending less money.
WPL is the best if you want to slowly upgrade it over time. I’d recommend the new C24-1
I think that Metal chassis would go better with some weighted MN wheels and tyres, particularly if modified to increase the width and lower the offset.
Yes agree. The WPL version will get a few mods before I run it
Can you put the stock wheels on the zd racing truggy please
Maybe yes
You look three years younger in this video, Phil.
Hello from southeast alaska do you have any stickers for my rock crawlers remote control?
Do you think the Feyee 003-1 is better than the MN 99s?
Yes. Better low end control 👍🏻
@@TomleyRC Thanks your coupon still works for the 003-1, looks like I’ve entered a WPL/MN addiction 😃
Tbh i hate MN models for not releasing metal kit like wpl, the after markets for metal upgrades are crazy expensive, thats why I sold my MN D90s halfway upgrades and trade it with wpl...
WPL are certainly the best for upgrades
Theses splash resistant?
Yes, usually ok with a little splash of water... even if they get really wet, you can usually dry them out with no issues
Et le. 99 s. ?
Are the cheap ones hobby grade
Yes, you can easily upgrade them
Wpl or mn? Which do you like better
MN
MN99s if you want ready to run. WPL for a kit
it's like a jimny and a g wagon
Those pesky tow shackles 😂😂
Haha... you know!
Who´d have thought that fly-tipping asphalt and concrete could be an act of civic generosity? Now you have a free public crawler facility complete with on-site parking!
I´m a bit confused by MN´s system of nomenclature. Am I right in thinking that the MN 96 comes with a 180 motor and proportional steering?
It should have a 260 motor and yes proportional steering.
@@scot0811 Thanks, Ray. I ask because I don´t want a Defender body - I like the FJ45 - but I can´t work out the cheapest way to end up with a 260 motor, proportional everything, and an FJ 45 body.
Should the customer in this position buy an RTR Mn 45 and an MN96, then swap bodies, or can he buy an FJ-bodies equivalent of the MN 96 straight out of the box?
@@Del350K4 You would be at a mid price point, but what about a WPL C34/44 KM - the metal axles, shafts, links price up well compared to upgrading a plastic version, and you get a much more scale FJ body.
@@smallscaleadventures That´s very true! Before doing that, however, I was curious to see how much it might cost to create my own attempt at an MN equivalent of the C44, cutting away a fair amount of the rear body, Dremelling out the bonnet/hood air intake and grille aperture and correcting MN´s poor rendition of the rear of the cab. Obviously I´d have fitted WPL wheels for the scale looks.
Del, I've considered doing a bit of work down there to make it better. Not had the time yet, but "1 Mans Trash......" haha
How does everyone keep finding trucks for like £20 I’m not talking about random thing just like when I go to try buy the cheap one they’re are £60 £70 but when anyone else buys one he get hem for pennies
I hope you show how to mod the MN99s I feel it needs more power for crawling. Would that 370 motor and 2 speed really make a difference compared to stock? Great video! Love the channel man
3 bucks for a 280 motor to replace the 260 does lots.
Hello Everyone.
Hi :)
How can you posible
Compare $30 with $200.?
Im sorry..... but those mall crawler wheels and tires on the 99S are absolutely hideous 🤣🤣. they would probably look great on a 1/10 scale though
Agree. Luckily the WPL version has better ones with off road tyres
Can i have that cheap one? It's look nice to
Me......
The expensive one is way too stiff.