Tile Leveling systems explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2017
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Tile Leveling systems explained, when and why they should be used to reduce or even eliminate lippage between tiles. Lippage is when one edge of a tile is higher than the adjacent tile. Porcelain tiles are getting larger and larger as time goes on, any tile with one side longer than 15" (38cm) is considered a large format tile. These large format tiles are usually not flat, the manufacturing process cause the tiles to bow as they are made, some are bowed more than others, but all will have some degree curve to them, and the longer the tile, the more it becomes a problem. In this video I explain how this impacts the installation of the tile and why Leveling systems have become so numerous and adopted to help with the installation of these large tiles and how they reduce lippage of the installed tile. There are many types of systems, but all work in the same way to bring the tiles into plane by clamping the edges of the tiles together, whether the system is a wedge type, spindle or cap type, the principle is the same. The system I use the most is a wedge type system and is the T-Lock system by Perfect Level Master.
All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.
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Thanks for showing the tiles bending, this answers my nagging question about these tiles and how the levelling system actually makes all edges without lippage.
To me, your videos have been more valuable to me than of any other tile/diy youtuber so far.
Glad to help!
Give him a super thanks aka money.. Education is priceless even if it’s $1.00 to buy a coffee oh wait coffee is more than $3. Anyway, I too appreciate his videos, whether I agree or not I still appreciate another professionals methods because we all learn by others.
You're absolutely right Sal, using these leveling systems has nothing to do with how skilled you are! They are needed because manufacturers have gone from mostly manual to fully automated production, and there's a lot of factors determining the outcome, and because high volume production is their number one goal, they are forced to somewhat lower their standards of quality. As an installer you open a box of any size tiles, and half of them you should probably throw away, because they're worped, cupped, twisted, misshaped, undersized, oversized, thinner, thicker, curved, bowed etc...) but if you do, you fall behind on your current job, because you gotta return them, get new ones, and you run into the same problems, so you make do with what you have, get plenty extra tiles, and use leveling systems, return what you can't use, and in the end everybody is happy.
Thank You for explaining AND showing the reasons for the tile leveling systems. I will definitely use it on my next home improvement project!
Amazing video! It’s like you pulled me into your office and sat me down after hearing about my initial large format tile installation mistakes 😂 thanks dad
Sal......you saved me a lot of grief with this video. Without this leveling kit I NEVER would have gotten my 8"x36" planks level and without lippage. Thanks for the videos.
👍👍✊✊
Thanks, glad it helped
Anybody complaining about an extra $150 to $200 dollars for a leveling system to complete a tile job probably can't afford to hire you anyway. I have been installing tile for 30 years and these leveling systems are a must. Great videos by the way
Just finished son's marble bevelled backsplash and all your info was so helpful! Now he's building a bsmt. bath soon. This is a great start for us!! Thanks again!!
glad to hear it.
Great video I’ve been tiling for 18 years your right agree with u 200 percent I won’t tile without it . I’ve used all types of leveling systems my favorite is spin doctor I use to use Tuscan but the clips has got exspensive so I switch to spin doctor . But they are all good .
I was really on the fence about a leveling system but you have convinced me! Thank you. .... (I do think you should have someone help you with audio/video troubles because you have some good information you could pass on.... )
We like lev-tech. Agree with everything you're saying once again. love to see someone else sliding the wedge between the tile and using it as a lippage detector. good on ya!
Thanks Sal for making this video. There's a lot debate around these systems and this is a great tutorial.
Thanks Jeff, I know you have also tried T-Lock and love it. Also just watched your latest video about installing a sink, nice job.
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Sal, thanks for a great vid and explanation. I've refurbished 6 houses so far and hopefully this is my last. I've always looked at tile straightness before purchasing but large format tiles are a nightmare. I usually spend a lot more per square metre for better manufactured although not necessarily the ones I want for looks. I've been looking at this system but never thought about tiles being able to flex. You my friend have saved me quite a lot of money and I can fit the tiles I want to. Cheers brother and if you ever visit the UK you are welcome too stay with us just outside of Manchester probably the greatest city in Europe.
A lot of installers resist using leveling systems because they think they are a gimmick, or that they have no real value, but once they understand how they work and that it really does help straighten out warped tiles to get a superior finish, well then they can't dream of not using them for larger tiles.
Sal you are the God of explaining things in detail.Thank you from COLD Canada
Maybe not a god, but very experienced and seasoned. ☺
Great video! In my experience, everyone is an "expert" and loves to shove their agendas & perspectives down someone else's throat just to prove they "know" something or "know a better way of doing something" and it amazes me how some of the same people really aren't that good at what they do either. I love how you take your time and the end result is always a great quality installation that will last many years. Thanks for all you do Sal, I've been watching your videos for 5 + years now!
Thanks, I try to share what I know and hopefully it helps some people.
Wow Sal! Your not only a great tile installer but, your a computer enthusiast as well? So many talents sir. Thanks for the video. Have watched and enjoyed many or yours.
😊👍
holy chit Sal!!! You're almost at 100k! Congrats. Looking at installing tile and looking at these tile leveling solutions.
Experience speaks with authority. You're explanations are crystal clear.
Thanks for watching my video.
Sal youre explanation is excellent .The one problem i find with the lippage system is people think its for levelling which it is not. Preperation is the key on substrate before you start .Its quite easy to see if tiles are bowed my way is to hold two tiles face to face hold them up and visualy you can see there bowed .The lippage system does pull the tile down into the glue and the tiles youve set that day will set as a large format never known tile to spring up .I do think problems arrive because people think and are told by some retailers its a levelling system which it is knot. I youse the lippage system on all large format tile floor and wall .Without douth it stops lippage also in relation to how fast you lay by this i mean if you started early morning continued into afternoon the glue would be drying at different rates.The lippage system does keep the tiles in a sheet format so to speak .One thing i do when i finished for the day i slide wedges in at the end of the last row floor or wall so as when i continue next day i dont get lippage due to glue drying quickly depending on temperature .For all those who get on here and criticise you realy need to look what youre doing wrong learn the lippage system first know how to use it .Its fast beautiful finish and the comments from youre customers are well worth it .Its a fantastic system for tilers . Sal i wish i was watching and picking up youre advise 25yrs ago .
Wedge at the end of the last row is a good tip. nice, thanks.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Someone that explains the actual purpose for this gadget, among others that are out there. It’s basically to PRESS in place with little to no unevenness. ITS NOT TO LEVEL YOUR TILE TO A UNEVEN FLOOR. Again thanks for the clarification.
Thanks for watching my video.
No you need to level the floor first.
Great explanation! I am just finishing up a shower/bathroom which is my first time using a leveling system to assist with the 20" long tile! It has really proven to work fantastically throughout laying of both vertical and horizontal (floor) tiling! I think I will move to the T-Lock system next time! Thanks!
😊👍
Hey Sal here is a funny. As a contractor home improvement in MA..We are finally getting to finish our kitchen after juggling client jobs inbetween our own reno(s). So I was reviewing your wonderful video on lipage..fantastic..I had to review this as we are using 12x24 for over 200 Sq’. Already did additional layer of 3/4 for structural reasons and 1/4 Hardi…now all set. My damn tile guys are out flat til July. So Thanks for the refrsher course as I think I am a tad older than you.
My wife asked who is that guy…? I said Sal..the tile man up in the north shore. She said “ can you get him down here today?”
Thanks man.
If you were on the North Shore, you might have had a chance, but I don't use cement board as an underlayment, I use Uncoupling membranes.
@@SalDiBlasi TY Sal 80 years old structure with floating joist widths, doubled up joists we always go another layer of 3/4 ply plus zhardi never had a failure. Eventually we may go to a membrane..but zi am old school just like tyvek vs 15 or 30 lb felt..tsrbpsper all day long is superior.
Excellent explanation Sal...sure many of us are great enough installers to get large format and planks really close without clips(depending on manufacturing quality), but there's NOTHING better than perfect and that's what, as a professional, we should all be trying to achieve with our installs...
Exactly, if there is a way to make it better, why not use it.
I like these! I installed 24×10 tiles on my last job, I wish I had these. You are right though the larger tiles are not flat and can be difficult to work with. Good video.
Many people think that the bigger the tile the easier it is to install, it is quite the opposite.
You are the tile setter that you tube needs. Thanks for doing it right!
I see a lot if know it all that don't have a clue.
best tile setter on youtube. great videos.
Love watching all your videos, learning from a master. Thanks a lot.
😀
Your freaking awesome... Your work is awsome, your description is awesome and people would do well to listen to your experience.
You are offering a few thousand dollar lesson, free!
Keep your making videos.
Thank you.
Btw i am serious not being sarcastic
👍
I concur Sal ... I use T-Lock myself. The main reason I use that system is because of the elasticity of the white tees. I have used other similar systems that were brittle and prematurely snapped off. Sever situations I have pre floated to level the floor. It saves u a lot of grief even on new construction ... thanks again.
I agree with Robert about the ease of the T Lock system. Used the Progress system originally and found a lot of premature snapping of the stems. I also have the MLT system which is nice except for all the time you spend cleaning the straps and getting the little nubs out of the clip. T Lock is much simpler and straightforward
John Brady I hear ya on the nubs. If I get any ... I just use a razor knife to re-score the nub and it usually pops right out. Most of the time I only get a few. The system works great. I tried the twist on ... wasn't to keen on that. Tended to scratch the surface on a high gloss tile. Later.
sal, put some knee pads on. Im groaning just watching you. I floated everything up to about 8 years ago. with construction today they should t lock from the roof to the basement. o yea,comb your hair. Thank you so much jerry doyle in va.
Great video, thanks! Your point at 12:50, talking about thinset shrinking as it cures, is a great point! I have had several "perfect" installations "settle" and "move" during the curing process.....so frustrating to come back the next day and have to pull tiles that didn't stay put....
We have the technology to avoid that now. 😊
Sal, I just subscribed! Your video helps me a ton! Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Thanks, and you'r welcome. 😀
Thanks I was afraid d tile was coming up but u clarified dat for me it’s going down..keep them coming Sal
They need to re name these systems " lippage systems" people think these will fix there wacky floors and give them a perfect job. Not going to happen. You still need to properly fasten the floor, do and sanding or leveling of the subfloor to get the floor to an acceptable flatness. Only way it pulls tiles up is you place your next tile in thinset and its to low to begin with compared to the surrounding installed tiles. These are an amazing system to have for sharp edged rectified tiles. With a properly prepped floor this will not only speed your install but also pretty much guarantee a perfectly flat floor. I couldn't imagine doing a rectified tile without these! Great informative video Sal!
Thanks for watching my video.
I have been using the ramundi system for years and love them. I will use them on everything 20x20 rectified and up including all planks , which is pretty much every job I do
Thanks for doing these videos! I'm a carpenter that does tile been doing tile for years. This system is works for a better job. The right mud underneath is key, as for pulling tile up I think the tile will move to least resistance. I think if the mud is right it will flex up and dry.
The adhesive quality of the thinset will always make the direction of least resistance down. Try setting a tile into thinset. making sure you get the required minimum coverage of 80%, 95% in a wet area, slip a margin trowel under it and see just how hard it is to pry up.
I always check and it's tough to pop the bond. I never used the level system on the walls though, do you always use it now on the walls or does it depend on the tile.
It will flex and dry in a good way .
Pretty much for all larger tiles.
WOW I was already sold on the tile levelling system but I’m even more so now. They should change the name from levelling system to LIPPAGE system. Thanks for explaining everything like you do. Yoh remind me of my father who taught me how to tile and I can incorporate what I’ve already leaned into your videos.
Thanks for watching my video.
He has some in his store that are the bigger pieces which work better than the older smaller wedges.
Hi Sal- Thank you for all your videos and advice. I am installing 5/8" x 8" x 8" cement tile over Ditra Heat. Is it silly for me to use the leveling system as they are not large format? I am setting at 1/32" grout lines. Also, I set a dozen tiles and had to stop. I saw how you used the multi tool to create space to insert the new spacers, but will I have a height difference because the first tiles had no spacers or would my thin set bed make the difference?
Thanks for your advice!
Hello Sal. Can you do a video on how to adjust the tool to slit in the wedges and why the adjustment is needed. Thanks Tim
You are a good person to put tiles you teach me a lot thank you
You were the first guy I saw use these so I trusted it was a good thing, so I used a product called the "spin doctor " I used them on 8x 48 planks , over 1000 sq feet and not only was it fun but fast and boy did that floor come out flat!!! There is no way I could have gotten this floor that flat without a leveling system!
You will always get a better result with a leveling system, provided the tile is installed properly.
I tried the spin doctor leveling system but it just takes too long and not detailed enough how many turns for each and its different I think you will like the wedge shape better…
Hi Sal love the videos thanks! I used this system in my bathroom and came out great!
+Will Dog They really do help to get a better job.
Just before the video gets to one minute you can realise that sal is a true master tiler. I seriously cannot believe anybody has the cheek to even comment badly on this guys videos. Sals work will still be standing strong for the next thirty years or so.
Who knows???? He’s that thorough with his work I bet those tiled bathrooms he’s done will still be standing long after the houses.
This man is as old school as they come whilst also adapted to the modern products(which basically make it easier for us). Much respect man. 👊🏼
It is a changing industry, keep up or be left behind.
Sal DiBlasi-Exactly. But us old school heads will always have the upper hand though,through hands on experience,and dealing with the unexpected shit you come across day in day out. Can’t be taught that or read it from a book. Can only be learnt on site in the trenches 😂
Excellent demonstration
Sal have a question. How do you do it to go around curves when installing tiles.
Hey how do you remove the plastic pieces that are between the grout lines? Do you just leave them in there after breaking off the top?
Sal, I bought the T lock system and will be using them for the first time. How necessary is that pair of pliers to the process? I was hoping to get away with setting the wedges manually.
Excellent video. Thanks for posting!
Your welcome. ☺
My brother I have been following you for years and you do very great work so please don't worry about the haters
I never worry about the trolls, they will always be people that love to hate. Thanks for watching my videos.👍😊
Your videos are very good. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
You are very welcome
What about using the wedge leveling system on a difference of say 3/16". I'd think this was the max dif to use on when properly buttering 12x 24 large f tile. Your thoughts Sal?
(Floor membrane added but no leveling compound as floor bowing/dipping is under 1/4" max dif)
another great video, thank you!
It seems only 1/16" leveling and spacer products being available at big box stores, at least near. They mention, "Produces 1/16 in. grout joints and may be used with traditional tile spacers up to 1/4 in."
Ever use traditional spacers and leveling systems?
I have, just set them right next to each other. The self leveling system goes under the tile and before you put your wedge or “bell” to finish the level add your tradition spacer to get the width you want
I've got to lay plank tiles that are 3ft x 9 inches what leveling system would you recommend. Great video.
Great video!! Really prove your point
Thanks
Very well explained!👍👍👍
As always great info and big help
Sal great video thank you . Quick question how do you slide a tile with the leveling system. I'm currently using the qep lash system. Got it before I watched this video. It's hard to slide tile to get full coverage with those in place, anyway you could demo this technique using full installation.
Thanks
If you have the rounded bases, you need to use a very large trowel.
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Noted your point about thinset shrinkage, which probably explained a time when I ended up with some lipage when I’d still swear was none when installed.
I regularly end up with layouts that need me to leave off half a room one day so I have someplace to work off on the next. I’d like to see how you deal with using the leveling system in this case. Ie. Leave them under tile, or maybe scrape a small void the next day..?
Thanks much
Floor has to be prepped flat before tile is installed.
@@SalDiBlasi Hey, thanks for reply though different question. How do you leave off one day and continue on the next with the leveling clips? Do you put them in and leave them over night, or scrape enough the next day to slip them under? Any videos where you show your process?
Do you recommend using these with natural stone or marble? If you are working with Large Format natural stone tiles that vary in thickness going Broken Bond ,will it still bring the tiles Flush.? Also,does it increase the cost of installation and labor to the job?
I have been tiling 27 yrs and have been using the wedge system for the last 4 yrs
Good move.
Hello Sal Diblasi.
I'm subscribed to your channel, I really like your work.
on the leveling systems, I also use the wedge continuously, I see them faster. but I personally believe that systems that exert totally vertical pressure are more accurate to possible movements of the tile when tightened.
What do you think about that?
On the other hand, one of the things that I value more of these systems, is the cure of the ceramic after its placement, the 24 hours after the placement of tiles is very important, because the drying (setting) of the glue makes the tiles they create eyebrows or jumps. with a leveling system the tiles are immovable during that process and so will always remain in their position. I do not know if the translator will do a good job.
a greeting
You are correct on all counts, however I still prefer the T-Lock with a bit of practice and using them in a strategic manner, moving the tile is really not a problem.
Great video thank you for sharing info
Great video...well done paisan
DiBlasi, you the man !!
Thank you for this video.
My pleasure!
Can’t thank you enough for these great videos 😁😁😁
Thanks, glad it helped
I’m about to contract someone to install 12x24 tiles and he told me he doesn’t use leveling system because they leave an empty space in the thinset, he guarantees it won’t be any lippage, that’s the reason why I’m watching these videos
If he says that, then he does not understand how they work, Hold him to his promise.
Doesn’t matter that little bit of glue what holds the tile is the cement aka grout and if you use his logic you will have more concrete grout space which will hold the tile more aka better not less.
Great post, thank you.
Great explanation
Thanks for the insight,
Question: When you place the self-levelling spacers, do you place them so that they're directly under the tile or on the floor under the tile (leaving some mortar between spacer and tile)?
Directly under the tile.
Great vlog, thanks
Hi Sal, thanks mil for your videos. For a novice tiler would you recommend mlt or t-lock? With t-locks I'll be afraid wedges move the tiles and wont know how to correct them, but on the other hand they seem easier to work with than mlt...? 35 sqm of 24x24 porcelain tiles. Thanks mil not only for your videos but also for all the advices in comments. Tnx
T lock for sure, MLT is great but has a steep learning curve.
I use a leveling system and have used several different types and now like the bigger pieces which are easier on my fingers. So with the lippage, how much do I squeeze it how tight to make it? I was installing a plank wood tile and they all have the center area that comes up bows, so should I pull that center of each tile down to the the 33% of the other tiles. Oh wait I see you are discussing the bowing and 33%
Excellent explanation.
😊
Finally I get it! I am buying the system you recommended.
You will be happy with the results.
Couldnt agree more.
Love the leveling system. Only used QEP so far. I like yours ... wider wedges.
Manufacture kind of sells them as a beginner turn pro kind of product. Its not!
One must still level the tile 90%+
I feel though on a 20" tile it almost needs 3clips across. To counter act the suction from middle of the tile.
I have found after clamping the wedge, tamping the tile helps it settle in.
Another benifit of the system.. especially for begimners is that the leveling system... clamps the two tiles together. So as you work on adjacent tiles.. less chance of movement
Question.. should mortar be weter to assist level system in working?
+TurboFlush I usually mix my thinset on the high side of the water content, but still in the recommended amount, use an LFT mortar with large tiles, it does make a difference.
Sal DiBlasi LFT?
Hi Sal do you use slow set or fastset when using a levelling system on a floor. I find they work much better when using a slow set, would appreciate your opinion thanks.
The only time I use a quickset is when I wetshim Kerdi-Board, otherwise just an LFT thinset for large format tile.
Sal, I have started a job using 12x24 tile with 1/4 spacing and I am having an issue as you describe here with lipage. The question I have is can I use these with 1/4 inch spacers as well? I have dry fit the whole area and the 1/4 space makes everything work great the smaller grout line will not work as well and I really don't want to pull up what is already down....thanks for your time and videos
You can, however you will have to use the system in conjunction with the 1/4" spacers to maintain the 1/4" grout line
Sal DiBlasi Thank You very much!
Ok thanks yea as I bought the stuff today from the hardware store and I explained to the person helping us get the materials even was telling us to water proof and tape the corners
Sal, desperately need your help. Can I pour self leveling cement over Redgard membrane? My floor was level prior to laying the membrane, but I think messed that up with the thinset underneath the membrane.
Generally the self leveler goes under the membrane, you will need to talk to custom to see what they recommend.
Thanks, yes I am using the new leveling system with bigger pieces and yes each plank piece has bowing in the middle I guess designed that way and recommended 33% which is 7 ⅞ which I measure exactly for each tile but that bowing just bothers me because you really cannot pull that bowing down because they it pushes the tiles next to it out and there goes your grout lines. It’s very frustrating.
The bow is a result of the firing process, Can't be helped, much worse on cheaper tiles.
Thanks Sal. Do you have a video (or know of one) which talks about installing smaller tiles and leveling the "old fashioned" way? I see lots of discussion of how to install thinset, grout, ditra, etc. but nothing about getting smaller tiles level.
What do you mean by smaller tiles? 12x12, mosaic, subway?
13x13, rectified tiles. Subfloor is quite flat. Installed square (not offset).
At want point do you consider using a TLS? Is it just with "large format" tile (15"+ on any edge)? Would you use it on smaller tile? For example, hand formed tile that might have more variation in thickness or flatness?
Really no point with smaller tile, I have tried it with 12x12 ,just to test a system. However if you have rectified tiles that have very narrow grout lines, it might be beneficial.
If your tiles have variable thickness any leveling system will not fix lippage created by inconsistent tile thicknesses as in the terracotta or even the new rage, cement tiles. The system will pull the bottoms level but the tops still won't meet flush so a leveling system will only make leveling those tiles harder to level the tops to each other. your mortar bed needs to be thick enough to compensate with hand tuned pressure for the thicker tile to meet top flush with a thinner tile.
Can you walk on tile if you use leveling sistem? How long you can walk on tile before adhesive start to cure?
Closed caption: "Only cabbages meet tile leveling systems. I get a lot of that."
Hey Sal I've got a question/problem I'm hoping you can help me resolve when it comes to this system. I've just started using it on the last couple jobs I've done, but my biggest problem is that quite often when I go to "lock" the tiles into place using the tool, the tiles actually push apart creating a bigger grout line then desired. I have to constantly use a rubber mallet to try and bang the tiles back tight to the spacer. Have any tips for me to resolve this issue? I just did a bathroom floor with 20"x20" tiles, used a 1/2" square notch trowel, back combed the tiles, collapsed the ridges before using the tool, and still when I go to lock them in place they would push apart. I was using 1/16" spacers and they were pretty much consistently an 1/8" grout line. Thanks.
First off always push the wedges toward the set tiles, not away, if it is the first couple of rows, towards the straight edge if you are using one. The reason you are getting a wider grout line than you want, may not be for the reason you think. Unless a tile is rectified, it will not have a square edge, the bottom edge of the porcelain tile will be wider than the top edge, on a bit of an angle. So when you push them together the bottom will touch the spacer first and leave the top grout line wider than the spacer. I hope I explained that clearly.
Do you use a leveling system on all tiles or just large format? I have a bathroom floor to do using 8x8 porcelain and I'm debating on picking up a system to use or not.
Just large format, would be a waste on 8x8
Hey Sal, if you had choose just one leveling system to use exclusively, which one would you choose? T-Lock, MLT?
T-Lock, the one I sell because it is the one I use dibsmart.com/
Thank you sir. That's experience talking!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Sal!
have you ever tried the RTC spin doctor leveling system?
I have th-cam.com/video/fJ0zjwEJFC4/w-d-xo.html
Hi i am a x bricklayer and can tile but not a tiler , there is a difference , just tile my bathroom , the instructions on my tiles was 1/3 but i wanted 50 50 on my pattern tile size is about 15" , i used this system for the first time ,no lip on any tile i can see or feel ,i think there are professionals who dont like any new systems what make it more easy for the diy person to do the job for them self , and if you are a professional and if any thing can make you job better or easy why not use any new system , sal you make great video,s
Excatly, use all the tools that will make the job better, faster and easier.
Sal thanks for the video. I relied on one of yours to finish my basement floor and used a leveling system and it looks great. But I ran into a problem and am curious how you handle it. Sometimes when I kick out the tabs and wedge when it's dried some of the tabs break halfway or even at the top of the tile leaving plastic I have to remove. I've tried dremeling it out but it never was a perfect solution. What do you do?
Best thing to do is always break them out the next day when the mortar has not cured. If the break high, scrape outh the thinset from around the tab, which will be easy at this point, so it is clear and then use the heal of a wedge to tap them out, works almost all the time. The longer you wait the harder the thinset the more difficult it will be.
If u hit them on side with ur rubber mallet and try to keep top of mallet flat against tile as u hit side of clip they won’t leave the plastic. I hate that. Takes forever to get prepped for grout. I finally figured out u keep top of mallet flushed with tile and hit on side they will not leave anything. And never wait to remove them. U get to job the next morning. Go ahead and remove them. I waited all weeekend once and several left plastic behind even when I hit the side correctly.
Hit them on the side on most clips with wedges still in Only leveling system that does better hitting back of wedges is ramondi system but cheap clips on Amazon are better and u don’t need pilers when u torque down. Some systems break clips when u torque down with hands instead of pliers. I like that about cheap clips on Amazon. I don’t need pliers. But u do have t hit them right or pain in the ass getting them out. Even w dermal
You are the best
I am using 13x20 textured tile (Rodano Rocks from The Tile Shop) on both the floor of my shower and the walls. Do you recommend using the tile leveling systems in the case where the surface of the tile isn't flush?
For that size tile a leveling system would be very beneficial.
Sal DiBlasi, I will look into getting that system then sir. Thank you.
Hello Sal ! Nice demo and explanation ;-) Soon I'll be a tiler and my main interrogation regarding a leveling system for tiles relates to the quantity of thinset needed to avoid the tiles to sound hollow. With a such system, do the tiles stick the same way than without the leveling system ? Do they sound hollow or not ? I ask my teacher, who has 35 years of experience, and he answered me that he never tried that tool and that we don't need it. He's a bit old school I have to admit :-p Thanks for the time you'll give to my question ;-)
There is no difference in how the thinset reacts with a leveling system, use it as always. I have also been doing this for well over 30 years, tiles are much bigger than they used to be an no longer flat. years ago they were not needed, today with the bigger tiles, they help do a better job faster.
Are the clips one time use? They break off correct? Thanks for the tips Sal I’m learning a lot!
Yes they are!
Sal, should the Ditra also be set with room for expansion, or is it the tile that's most critical?
Yes
thanks for the great video Sal....sometimes you talk about premium thinset, not what they sell at home depot!!! my wife and I are ready to tackle our kitchen floor. we're installing ditra heat and would like to know what you recommend for the matt to the osb subfloor....I know it has to be modified but what brand is best? I can not get the the new stuff that schluter makes around here. everyone is telling me the buy in is to much and they don't want to??? any help would be appreciated, oh and I can get my hands on ardex
Since you can't get the Schluter thinset, then any premium modified thinset will work, some examples are Mapei Ultraflex 2, Ardex X5, Laticrete 253 Gold, or any thing above this grade for each company. To install the Ditra make sure you by the regular version of thinset not the LFT (Large Format Tile) version. Mix it loose, but still able to hold a notch. Here is a detailed explanation of Ditra, th-cam.com/video/YpXEXqbh7ok/w-d-xo.html
Sal DiBlasi thank you so much for the explanation...I just didn't know what a premium thinset actually was.....must be just the brand
All manufactures make lower end thinsets, they have less of the components that makes a thinset great, they do have their uses, but when reliability is critical, better to use a superior product.
Is the T-Lock system your preferred one for long wood plank tile?
it has been
Sal, can a large format tile say 12x24, "warp" when it comes in contact w/ water-based thin-set?
+Oldpuck81 depends on the tile, there are many stones that have to be set with epoxy because they are sensitive to water and will curl.