Thanks for showing the tiles bending, this answers my nagging question about these tiles and how the levelling system actually makes all edges without lippage. To me, your videos have been more valuable to me than of any other tile/diy youtuber so far.
Give him a super thanks aka money.. Education is priceless even if it’s $1.00 to buy a coffee oh wait coffee is more than $3. Anyway, I too appreciate his videos, whether I agree or not I still appreciate another professionals methods because we all learn by others.
You're absolutely right Sal, using these leveling systems has nothing to do with how skilled you are! They are needed because manufacturers have gone from mostly manual to fully automated production, and there's a lot of factors determining the outcome, and because high volume production is their number one goal, they are forced to somewhat lower their standards of quality. As an installer you open a box of any size tiles, and half of them you should probably throw away, because they're worped, cupped, twisted, misshaped, undersized, oversized, thinner, thicker, curved, bowed etc...) but if you do, you fall behind on your current job, because you gotta return them, get new ones, and you run into the same problems, so you make do with what you have, get plenty extra tiles, and use leveling systems, return what you can't use, and in the end everybody is happy.
Sal......you saved me a lot of grief with this video. Without this leveling kit I NEVER would have gotten my 8"x36" planks level and without lippage. Thanks for the videos. 👍👍✊✊
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Someone that explains the actual purpose for this gadget, among others that are out there. It’s basically to PRESS in place with little to no unevenness. ITS NOT TO LEVEL YOUR TILE TO A UNEVEN FLOOR. Again thanks for the clarification.
Anybody complaining about an extra $150 to $200 dollars for a leveling system to complete a tile job probably can't afford to hire you anyway. I have been installing tile for 30 years and these leveling systems are a must. Great videos by the way
Great video! In my experience, everyone is an "expert" and loves to shove their agendas & perspectives down someone else's throat just to prove they "know" something or "know a better way of doing something" and it amazes me how some of the same people really aren't that good at what they do either. I love how you take your time and the end result is always a great quality installation that will last many years. Thanks for all you do Sal, I've been watching your videos for 5 + years now!
Amazing video! It’s like you pulled me into your office and sat me down after hearing about my initial large format tile installation mistakes 😂 thanks dad
Hey Sal here is a funny. As a contractor home improvement in MA..We are finally getting to finish our kitchen after juggling client jobs inbetween our own reno(s). So I was reviewing your wonderful video on lipage..fantastic..I had to review this as we are using 12x24 for over 200 Sq’. Already did additional layer of 3/4 for structural reasons and 1/4 Hardi…now all set. My damn tile guys are out flat til July. So Thanks for the refrsher course as I think I am a tad older than you. My wife asked who is that guy…? I said Sal..the tile man up in the north shore. She said “ can you get him down here today?” Thanks man.
@@SalDiBlasi TY Sal 80 years old structure with floating joist widths, doubled up joists we always go another layer of 3/4 ply plus zhardi never had a failure. Eventually we may go to a membrane..but zi am old school just like tyvek vs 15 or 30 lb felt..tsrbpsper all day long is superior.
Wow Sal! Your not only a great tile installer but, your a computer enthusiast as well? So many talents sir. Thanks for the video. Have watched and enjoyed many or yours.
Just finished son's marble bevelled backsplash and all your info was so helpful! Now he's building a bsmt. bath soon. This is a great start for us!! Thanks again!!
Sal youre explanation is excellent .The one problem i find with the lippage system is people think its for levelling which it is not. Preperation is the key on substrate before you start .Its quite easy to see if tiles are bowed my way is to hold two tiles face to face hold them up and visualy you can see there bowed .The lippage system does pull the tile down into the glue and the tiles youve set that day will set as a large format never known tile to spring up .I do think problems arrive because people think and are told by some retailers its a levelling system which it is knot. I youse the lippage system on all large format tile floor and wall .Without douth it stops lippage also in relation to how fast you lay by this i mean if you started early morning continued into afternoon the glue would be drying at different rates.The lippage system does keep the tiles in a sheet format so to speak .One thing i do when i finished for the day i slide wedges in at the end of the last row floor or wall so as when i continue next day i dont get lippage due to glue drying quickly depending on temperature .For all those who get on here and criticise you realy need to look what youre doing wrong learn the lippage system first know how to use it .Its fast beautiful finish and the comments from youre customers are well worth it .Its a fantastic system for tilers . Sal i wish i was watching and picking up youre advise 25yrs ago .
Thanks, yes I am using the new leveling system with bigger pieces and yes each plank piece has bowing in the middle I guess designed that way and recommended 33% which is 7 ⅞ which I measure exactly for each tile but that bowing just bothers me because you really cannot pull that bowing down because they it pushes the tiles next to it out and there goes your grout lines. It’s very frustrating.
Sal, thanks for a great vid and explanation. I've refurbished 6 houses so far and hopefully this is my last. I've always looked at tile straightness before purchasing but large format tiles are a nightmare. I usually spend a lot more per square metre for better manufactured although not necessarily the ones I want for looks. I've been looking at this system but never thought about tiles being able to flex. You my friend have saved me quite a lot of money and I can fit the tiles I want to. Cheers brother and if you ever visit the UK you are welcome too stay with us just outside of Manchester probably the greatest city in Europe.
A lot of installers resist using leveling systems because they think they are a gimmick, or that they have no real value, but once they understand how they work and that it really does help straighten out warped tiles to get a superior finish, well then they can't dream of not using them for larger tiles.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a method to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Orlando Idris I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
They need to re name these systems " lippage systems" people think these will fix there wacky floors and give them a perfect job. Not going to happen. You still need to properly fasten the floor, do and sanding or leveling of the subfloor to get the floor to an acceptable flatness. Only way it pulls tiles up is you place your next tile in thinset and its to low to begin with compared to the surrounding installed tiles. These are an amazing system to have for sharp edged rectified tiles. With a properly prepped floor this will not only speed your install but also pretty much guarantee a perfectly flat floor. I couldn't imagine doing a rectified tile without these! Great informative video Sal!
WOW I was already sold on the tile levelling system but I’m even more so now. They should change the name from levelling system to LIPPAGE system. Thanks for explaining everything like you do. Yoh remind me of my father who taught me how to tile and I can incorporate what I’ve already leaned into your videos.
Thanks for doing these videos! I'm a carpenter that does tile been doing tile for years. This system is works for a better job. The right mud underneath is key, as for pulling tile up I think the tile will move to least resistance. I think if the mud is right it will flex up and dry.
The adhesive quality of the thinset will always make the direction of least resistance down. Try setting a tile into thinset. making sure you get the required minimum coverage of 80%, 95% in a wet area, slip a margin trowel under it and see just how hard it is to pry up.
I always check and it's tough to pop the bond. I never used the level system on the walls though, do you always use it now on the walls or does it depend on the tile.
Just before the video gets to one minute you can realise that sal is a true master tiler. I seriously cannot believe anybody has the cheek to even comment badly on this guys videos. Sals work will still be standing strong for the next thirty years or so. Who knows???? He’s that thorough with his work I bet those tiled bathrooms he’s done will still be standing long after the houses. This man is as old school as they come whilst also adapted to the modern products(which basically make it easier for us). Much respect man. 👊🏼
Sal DiBlasi-Exactly. But us old school heads will always have the upper hand though,through hands on experience,and dealing with the unexpected shit you come across day in day out. Can’t be taught that or read it from a book. Can only be learnt on site in the trenches 😂
Great video I’ve been tiling for 18 years your right agree with u 200 percent I won’t tile without it . I’ve used all types of leveling systems my favorite is spin doctor I use to use Tuscan but the clips has got exspensive so I switch to spin doctor . But they are all good .
We like lev-tech. Agree with everything you're saying once again. love to see someone else sliding the wedge between the tile and using it as a lippage detector. good on ya!
I was really on the fence about a leveling system but you have convinced me! Thank you. .... (I do think you should have someone help you with audio/video troubles because you have some good information you could pass on.... )
You were the first guy I saw use these so I trusted it was a good thing, so I used a product called the "spin doctor " I used them on 8x 48 planks , over 1000 sq feet and not only was it fun but fast and boy did that floor come out flat!!! There is no way I could have gotten this floor that flat without a leveling system!
I tried the spin doctor leveling system but it just takes too long and not detailed enough how many turns for each and its different I think you will like the wedge shape better…
I concur Sal ... I use T-Lock myself. The main reason I use that system is because of the elasticity of the white tees. I have used other similar systems that were brittle and prematurely snapped off. Sever situations I have pre floated to level the floor. It saves u a lot of grief even on new construction ... thanks again.
I agree with Robert about the ease of the T Lock system. Used the Progress system originally and found a lot of premature snapping of the stems. I also have the MLT system which is nice except for all the time you spend cleaning the straps and getting the little nubs out of the clip. T Lock is much simpler and straightforward
John Brady I hear ya on the nubs. If I get any ... I just use a razor knife to re-score the nub and it usually pops right out. Most of the time I only get a few. The system works great. I tried the twist on ... wasn't to keen on that. Tended to scratch the surface on a high gloss tile. Later.
sal, put some knee pads on. Im groaning just watching you. I floated everything up to about 8 years ago. with construction today they should t lock from the roof to the basement. o yea,comb your hair. Thank you so much jerry doyle in va.
Great explanation! I am just finishing up a shower/bathroom which is my first time using a leveling system to assist with the 20" long tile! It has really proven to work fantastically throughout laying of both vertical and horizontal (floor) tiling! I think I will move to the T-Lock system next time! Thanks!
Excellent explanation Sal...sure many of us are great enough installers to get large format and planks really close without clips(depending on manufacturing quality), but there's NOTHING better than perfect and that's what, as a professional, we should all be trying to achieve with our installs...
I agree on using the leveling system with plank tiles such as 8x36 or 8x46 etc...Those tiles actually bend! They're not flat. However....Leveling system is a slow go....Really slow. Whenever i use a leveling system i take twice as long to install the tiles. You still have to lift the tile up and put more thinset. Leveling system is just for holding heavy tiles to keep them from sinking down as thinset is curing and for fine tuning the tiles. Adding all those clips, edges and tightening them up takes a long time. In my opinion, It's not necessary to use it for tiles under 24x24.
Great video, thanks! Your point at 12:50, talking about thinset shrinking as it cures, is a great point! I have had several "perfect" installations "settle" and "move" during the curing process.....so frustrating to come back the next day and have to pull tiles that didn't stay put....
I like these! I installed 24×10 tiles on my last job, I wish I had these. You are right though the larger tiles are not flat and can be difficult to work with. Good video.
Your freaking awesome... Your work is awsome, your description is awesome and people would do well to listen to your experience. You are offering a few thousand dollar lesson, free! Keep your making videos. Thank you. Btw i am serious not being sarcastic
another great video, thank you! It seems only 1/16" leveling and spacer products being available at big box stores, at least near. They mention, "Produces 1/16 in. grout joints and may be used with traditional tile spacers up to 1/4 in." Ever use traditional spacers and leveling systems?
I have, just set them right next to each other. The self leveling system goes under the tile and before you put your wedge or “bell” to finish the level add your tradition spacer to get the width you want
I use a leveling system and have used several different types and now like the bigger pieces which are easier on my fingers. So with the lippage, how much do I squeeze it how tight to make it? I was installing a plank wood tile and they all have the center area that comes up bows, so should I pull that center of each tile down to the the 33% of the other tiles. Oh wait I see you are discussing the bowing and 33%
I have been using the ramundi system for years and love them. I will use them on everything 20x20 rectified and up including all planks , which is pretty much every job I do
At want point do you consider using a TLS? Is it just with "large format" tile (15"+ on any edge)? Would you use it on smaller tile? For example, hand formed tile that might have more variation in thickness or flatness?
Really no point with smaller tile, I have tried it with 12x12 ,just to test a system. However if you have rectified tiles that have very narrow grout lines, it might be beneficial.
If your tiles have variable thickness any leveling system will not fix lippage created by inconsistent tile thicknesses as in the terracotta or even the new rage, cement tiles. The system will pull the bottoms level but the tops still won't meet flush so a leveling system will only make leveling those tiles harder to level the tops to each other. your mortar bed needs to be thick enough to compensate with hand tuned pressure for the thicker tile to meet top flush with a thinner tile.
Thank you sir. Question, i recently purchased a slab foundation home and we have had almost everything remodeled and now its time for flooring in the main area, kitchen, hallways bath and bedrooms, okay i want to ask your experienced opinion about whats a better look throughout the home. Our options are wood look tile, or this laminated wood flooring throughout home maybe carpet in kids room. Help help ive watched you alot and your work is always A+
When you take into consideration the service life of a tile floor, it has the lowest cost of any other flooring product. Sure initial cost might be a bit higher, but it will outlast any other product by many times.
@@vocalone23 I have all kinds of areas with a wood look tile, so it all depends on the style you want for your room. Which stores have been dissuade you? They obviously don't know or care about proper standards and methods if they say it will not last.
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Noted your point about thinset shrinkage, which probably explained a time when I ended up with some lipage when I’d still swear was none when installed. I regularly end up with layouts that need me to leave off half a room one day so I have someplace to work off on the next. I’d like to see how you deal with using the leveling system in this case. Ie. Leave them under tile, or maybe scrape a small void the next day..? Thanks much
@@SalDiBlasi Hey, thanks for reply though different question. How do you leave off one day and continue on the next with the leveling clips? Do you put them in and leave them over night, or scrape enough the next day to slip them under? Any videos where you show your process?
I'm going to be installing 12"x24" tiles. I see the T lock system is available in 1/32", 1/16", and 1/8". Is that referring to the size of the grout line? Is there a "preferred" size with this size tile?
Sal, I have started a job using 12x24 tile with 1/4 spacing and I am having an issue as you describe here with lipage. The question I have is can I use these with 1/4 inch spacers as well? I have dry fit the whole area and the 1/4 space makes everything work great the smaller grout line will not work as well and I really don't want to pull up what is already down....thanks for your time and videos
Sal, desperately need your help. Can I pour self leveling cement over Redgard membrane? My floor was level prior to laying the membrane, but I think messed that up with the thinset underneath the membrane.
Hi Sal- Thank you for all your videos and advice. I am installing 5/8" x 8" x 8" cement tile over Ditra Heat. Is it silly for me to use the leveling system as they are not large format? I am setting at 1/32" grout lines. Also, I set a dozen tiles and had to stop. I saw how you used the multi tool to create space to insert the new spacers, but will I have a height difference because the first tiles had no spacers or would my thin set bed make the difference? Thanks for your advice!
I am using 13x20 textured tile (Rodano Rocks from The Tile Shop) on both the floor of my shower and the walls. Do you recommend using the tile leveling systems in the case where the surface of the tile isn't flush?
What about using the wedge leveling system on a difference of say 3/16". I'd think this was the max dif to use on when properly buttering 12x 24 large f tile. Your thoughts Sal? (Floor membrane added but no leveling compound as floor bowing/dipping is under 1/4" max dif)
Ok thanks yea as I bought the stuff today from the hardware store and I explained to the person helping us get the materials even was telling us to water proof and tape the corners
Sal, I bought the T lock system and will be using them for the first time. How necessary is that pair of pliers to the process? I was hoping to get away with setting the wedges manually.
Do you recommend using these with natural stone or marble? If you are working with Large Format natural stone tiles that vary in thickness going Broken Bond ,will it still bring the tiles Flush.? Also,does it increase the cost of installation and labor to the job?
Question: When you place the self-levelling spacers, do you place them so that they're directly under the tile or on the floor under the tile (leaving some mortar between spacer and tile)?
U run rows of thinset on floor or wall and then I use v notch instead of flat troweling. Check tiles next morning for sound of coverage when u nock on them. If they sound hollow then pull up and reinstall. Coverage and quality grout job and shouldn’t have issues. Never install on waves floors Do ur prep and get coverage and u can’t beat the quality
Sal thanks for the video. I relied on one of yours to finish my basement floor and used a leveling system and it looks great. But I ran into a problem and am curious how you handle it. Sometimes when I kick out the tabs and wedge when it's dried some of the tabs break halfway or even at the top of the tile leaving plastic I have to remove. I've tried dremeling it out but it never was a perfect solution. What do you do?
Best thing to do is always break them out the next day when the mortar has not cured. If the break high, scrape outh the thinset from around the tab, which will be easy at this point, so it is clear and then use the heal of a wedge to tap them out, works almost all the time. The longer you wait the harder the thinset the more difficult it will be.
If u hit them on side with ur rubber mallet and try to keep top of mallet flat against tile as u hit side of clip they won’t leave the plastic. I hate that. Takes forever to get prepped for grout. I finally figured out u keep top of mallet flushed with tile and hit on side they will not leave anything. And never wait to remove them. U get to job the next morning. Go ahead and remove them. I waited all weeekend once and several left plastic behind even when I hit the side correctly.
Hit them on the side on most clips with wedges still in Only leveling system that does better hitting back of wedges is ramondi system but cheap clips on Amazon are better and u don’t need pilers when u torque down. Some systems break clips when u torque down with hands instead of pliers. I like that about cheap clips on Amazon. I don’t need pliers. But u do have t hit them right or pain in the ass getting them out. Even w dermal
Hi i am a x bricklayer and can tile but not a tiler , there is a difference , just tile my bathroom , the instructions on my tiles was 1/3 but i wanted 50 50 on my pattern tile size is about 15" , i used this system for the first time ,no lip on any tile i can see or feel ,i think there are professionals who dont like any new systems what make it more easy for the diy person to do the job for them self , and if you are a professional and if any thing can make you job better or easy why not use any new system , sal you make great video,s
Hi Sal do you use slow set or fastset when using a levelling system on a floor. I find they work much better when using a slow set, would appreciate your opinion thanks.
I’m about to contract someone to install 12x24 tiles and he told me he doesn’t use leveling system because they leave an empty space in the thinset, he guarantees it won’t be any lippage, that’s the reason why I’m watching these videos
Doesn’t matter that little bit of glue what holds the tile is the cement aka grout and if you use his logic you will have more concrete grout space which will hold the tile more aka better not less.
As a tile setter myself, I use to think that only loser use the leveling system but eventually learned that it is a tool. Its kinda like saying a car mechanic isn't a mechanic just because he uses a scan tool to know whats wrong with the car. Aside from these useful tools there is still skill in what we do from tile setting to fixing cars....
Agreed, use the tools that are available to make out lives easier and to do a better job. Are you on FaceBook? is so are you a member Of Tile Geeks? If not, let me know.
Couldnt agree more. Love the leveling system. Only used QEP so far. I like yours ... wider wedges. Manufacture kind of sells them as a beginner turn pro kind of product. Its not! One must still level the tile 90%+ I feel though on a 20" tile it almost needs 3clips across. To counter act the suction from middle of the tile. I have found after clamping the wedge, tamping the tile helps it settle in. Another benifit of the system.. especially for begimners is that the leveling system... clamps the two tiles together. So as you work on adjacent tiles.. less chance of movement Question.. should mortar be weter to assist level system in working?
+TurboFlush I usually mix my thinset on the high side of the water content, but still in the recommended amount, use an LFT mortar with large tiles, it does make a difference.
thanks for the great video Sal....sometimes you talk about premium thinset, not what they sell at home depot!!! my wife and I are ready to tackle our kitchen floor. we're installing ditra heat and would like to know what you recommend for the matt to the osb subfloor....I know it has to be modified but what brand is best? I can not get the the new stuff that schluter makes around here. everyone is telling me the buy in is to much and they don't want to??? any help would be appreciated, oh and I can get my hands on ardex
Since you can't get the Schluter thinset, then any premium modified thinset will work, some examples are Mapei Ultraflex 2, Ardex X5, Laticrete 253 Gold, or any thing above this grade for each company. To install the Ditra make sure you by the regular version of thinset not the LFT (Large Format Tile) version. Mix it loose, but still able to hold a notch. Here is a detailed explanation of Ditra, th-cam.com/video/YpXEXqbh7ok/w-d-xo.html
All manufactures make lower end thinsets, they have less of the components that makes a thinset great, they do have their uses, but when reliability is critical, better to use a superior product.
I'm installing 175 sq ft of Travertine tile, the Versailles pattern, with 5 different sizes of tile in each kit. This is 1/2 in stone tile, my grout size is 1/2", so my first question is: will this system work? Seems I would need 1/2" removable spacers in any event. Second question is: I'm laying the Travertine over 54 sq ft of newly poured concrete (heavily used entryway) and the remaining sq ft over concrete that had a linoleum floor I chiseled up (a library.) I'm slowly scrapping off the old linoleum black glue off the older concrete floor to get it clean. Do I need to use the Schluter Ditra in both areas just to be safe?
I would use ditra for sure, and I would grind the old concrete to make sure the pores are open for a good bond. 1/2 grout line seems very wide, but might not be avoidable if the tile and pattern require it. The T-Lock will work in conjunction with a spacer.
Thank you for the feedback. The library (121 sq ft) had carpet over 8"x8" linoleum tiles on top of concrete. Once, I got all that up , I used a small pneumatic needle de-scaler to remove the old linoleum glue that was stuck to the concrete. That leaves me with a fresh surface on the concrete for the thinset to stick to when I lay down the Schluter®-DITRA material. Grout thickness is a 1/4", not 1/2". Pilot error.
Jesse how are you getting the linoleum glue up? My whole lower level has linoleum stuck to cement. I discovered it after removing wet carpet and wet floating floor (sewer backup). I want to waterproof the area and eventually apply tile. I can see I also have a leveling problem.
Hey Rochelle- I went to Harbor Freight and bought the smaller compact Air Needle Scaler ($30). I already have an air compressor in the garage, and these are relatively inexpensive at HF as well. I put on my headphones with an audiobook and knocked it out over a three day period. I did need to wear a respirator because of the silica dust in the concrete.. I tried chemicals but they didn't budge the dried glue: the air needle scaler punch right through and as a benefit, left the concrete surface a little roughed up for the thinset to adhere to. There are companies that will come in with a grinder sander setup to take that top surface off as well if you go for a pro to save the time.
Hey Sal I've got a question/problem I'm hoping you can help me resolve when it comes to this system. I've just started using it on the last couple jobs I've done, but my biggest problem is that quite often when I go to "lock" the tiles into place using the tool, the tiles actually push apart creating a bigger grout line then desired. I have to constantly use a rubber mallet to try and bang the tiles back tight to the spacer. Have any tips for me to resolve this issue? I just did a bathroom floor with 20"x20" tiles, used a 1/2" square notch trowel, back combed the tiles, collapsed the ridges before using the tool, and still when I go to lock them in place they would push apart. I was using 1/16" spacers and they were pretty much consistently an 1/8" grout line. Thanks.
First off always push the wedges toward the set tiles, not away, if it is the first couple of rows, towards the straight edge if you are using one. The reason you are getting a wider grout line than you want, may not be for the reason you think. Unless a tile is rectified, it will not have a square edge, the bottom edge of the porcelain tile will be wider than the top edge, on a bit of an angle. So when you push them together the bottom will touch the spacer first and leave the top grout line wider than the spacer. I hope I explained that clearly.
Hi Sal, this is an older video, but would it be worthwhile using t-lock system when installing 3x12 or 4x12 subway tile for wall or also for 8x8 floor tile? Thanks again for great instructional videos
Thanks Sal. Do you have a video (or know of one) which talks about installing smaller tiles and leveling the "old fashioned" way? I see lots of discussion of how to install thinset, grout, ditra, etc. but nothing about getting smaller tiles level.
Do you use a leveling system on all tiles or just large format? I have a bathroom floor to do using 8x8 porcelain and I'm debating on picking up a system to use or not.
Sal great video thank you . Quick question how do you slide a tile with the leveling system. I'm currently using the qep lash system. Got it before I watched this video. It's hard to slide tile to get full coverage with those in place, anyway you could demo this technique using full installation. Thanks
Also, off topic, what is the best way to handle the wall tile/floor tile intersection? I didn't tile the lowest row on the wall and the floor tile has not been installed. Do I tile the floor first and then the wall? Should the wall tile be under the wall tile with an appropriate gap above? I love your videos and thought I watched all of them, but I must have missed you tackle that subject. Thank you in advance!
+Mark K best way to do it is to have the floor down first and then the wall tile on top, always leave room for movement.as far as the pliers for the T-Lock system, they are not needed, but they do mkae it easier.
Hi Sal, thanks mil for your videos. For a novice tiler would you recommend mlt or t-lock? With t-locks I'll be afraid wedges move the tiles and wont know how to correct them, but on the other hand they seem easier to work with than mlt...? 35 sqm of 24x24 porcelain tiles. Thanks mil not only for your videos but also for all the advices in comments. Tnx
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Thanks for showing the tiles bending, this answers my nagging question about these tiles and how the levelling system actually makes all edges without lippage.
To me, your videos have been more valuable to me than of any other tile/diy youtuber so far.
Glad to help!
Give him a super thanks aka money.. Education is priceless even if it’s $1.00 to buy a coffee oh wait coffee is more than $3. Anyway, I too appreciate his videos, whether I agree or not I still appreciate another professionals methods because we all learn by others.
You're absolutely right Sal, using these leveling systems has nothing to do with how skilled you are! They are needed because manufacturers have gone from mostly manual to fully automated production, and there's a lot of factors determining the outcome, and because high volume production is their number one goal, they are forced to somewhat lower their standards of quality. As an installer you open a box of any size tiles, and half of them you should probably throw away, because they're worped, cupped, twisted, misshaped, undersized, oversized, thinner, thicker, curved, bowed etc...) but if you do, you fall behind on your current job, because you gotta return them, get new ones, and you run into the same problems, so you make do with what you have, get plenty extra tiles, and use leveling systems, return what you can't use, and in the end everybody is happy.
Sal......you saved me a lot of grief with this video. Without this leveling kit I NEVER would have gotten my 8"x36" planks level and without lippage. Thanks for the videos.
👍👍✊✊
Thanks, glad it helped
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Someone that explains the actual purpose for this gadget, among others that are out there. It’s basically to PRESS in place with little to no unevenness. ITS NOT TO LEVEL YOUR TILE TO A UNEVEN FLOOR. Again thanks for the clarification.
Thanks for watching my video.
No you need to level the floor first.
Anybody complaining about an extra $150 to $200 dollars for a leveling system to complete a tile job probably can't afford to hire you anyway. I have been installing tile for 30 years and these leveling systems are a must. Great videos by the way
Great video! In my experience, everyone is an "expert" and loves to shove their agendas & perspectives down someone else's throat just to prove they "know" something or "know a better way of doing something" and it amazes me how some of the same people really aren't that good at what they do either. I love how you take your time and the end result is always a great quality installation that will last many years. Thanks for all you do Sal, I've been watching your videos for 5 + years now!
Thanks, I try to share what I know and hopefully it helps some people.
Amazing video! It’s like you pulled me into your office and sat me down after hearing about my initial large format tile installation mistakes 😂 thanks dad
Hey Sal here is a funny. As a contractor home improvement in MA..We are finally getting to finish our kitchen after juggling client jobs inbetween our own reno(s). So I was reviewing your wonderful video on lipage..fantastic..I had to review this as we are using 12x24 for over 200 Sq’. Already did additional layer of 3/4 for structural reasons and 1/4 Hardi…now all set. My damn tile guys are out flat til July. So Thanks for the refrsher course as I think I am a tad older than you.
My wife asked who is that guy…? I said Sal..the tile man up in the north shore. She said “ can you get him down here today?”
Thanks man.
If you were on the North Shore, you might have had a chance, but I don't use cement board as an underlayment, I use Uncoupling membranes.
@@SalDiBlasi TY Sal 80 years old structure with floating joist widths, doubled up joists we always go another layer of 3/4 ply plus zhardi never had a failure. Eventually we may go to a membrane..but zi am old school just like tyvek vs 15 or 30 lb felt..tsrbpsper all day long is superior.
Wow Sal! Your not only a great tile installer but, your a computer enthusiast as well? So many talents sir. Thanks for the video. Have watched and enjoyed many or yours.
😊👍
Just finished son's marble bevelled backsplash and all your info was so helpful! Now he's building a bsmt. bath soon. This is a great start for us!! Thanks again!!
glad to hear it.
Experience speaks with authority. You're explanations are crystal clear.
Thanks for watching my video.
Sal youre explanation is excellent .The one problem i find with the lippage system is people think its for levelling which it is not. Preperation is the key on substrate before you start .Its quite easy to see if tiles are bowed my way is to hold two tiles face to face hold them up and visualy you can see there bowed .The lippage system does pull the tile down into the glue and the tiles youve set that day will set as a large format never known tile to spring up .I do think problems arrive because people think and are told by some retailers its a levelling system which it is knot. I youse the lippage system on all large format tile floor and wall .Without douth it stops lippage also in relation to how fast you lay by this i mean if you started early morning continued into afternoon the glue would be drying at different rates.The lippage system does keep the tiles in a sheet format so to speak .One thing i do when i finished for the day i slide wedges in at the end of the last row floor or wall so as when i continue next day i dont get lippage due to glue drying quickly depending on temperature .For all those who get on here and criticise you realy need to look what youre doing wrong learn the lippage system first know how to use it .Its fast beautiful finish and the comments from youre customers are well worth it .Its a fantastic system for tilers . Sal i wish i was watching and picking up youre advise 25yrs ago .
Wedge at the end of the last row is a good tip. nice, thanks.
Sal you are the God of explaining things in detail.Thank you from COLD Canada
Maybe not a god, but very experienced and seasoned. ☺
Thank You for explaining AND showing the reasons for the tile leveling systems. I will definitely use it on my next home improvement project!
Thanks, yes I am using the new leveling system with bigger pieces and yes each plank piece has bowing in the middle I guess designed that way and recommended 33% which is 7 ⅞ which I measure exactly for each tile but that bowing just bothers me because you really cannot pull that bowing down because they it pushes the tiles next to it out and there goes your grout lines. It’s very frustrating.
The bow is a result of the firing process, Can't be helped, much worse on cheaper tiles.
Sal, thanks for a great vid and explanation. I've refurbished 6 houses so far and hopefully this is my last. I've always looked at tile straightness before purchasing but large format tiles are a nightmare. I usually spend a lot more per square metre for better manufactured although not necessarily the ones I want for looks. I've been looking at this system but never thought about tiles being able to flex. You my friend have saved me quite a lot of money and I can fit the tiles I want to. Cheers brother and if you ever visit the UK you are welcome too stay with us just outside of Manchester probably the greatest city in Europe.
A lot of installers resist using leveling systems because they think they are a gimmick, or that they have no real value, but once they understand how they work and that it really does help straighten out warped tiles to get a superior finish, well then they can't dream of not using them for larger tiles.
Thanks Sal for making this video. There's a lot debate around these systems and this is a great tutorial.
Thanks Jeff, I know you have also tried T-Lock and love it. Also just watched your latest video about installing a sink, nice job.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a method to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Lennox Derek instablaster ;)
@Orlando Idris I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Orlando Idris it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
They need to re name these systems " lippage systems" people think these will fix there wacky floors and give them a perfect job. Not going to happen. You still need to properly fasten the floor, do and sanding or leveling of the subfloor to get the floor to an acceptable flatness. Only way it pulls tiles up is you place your next tile in thinset and its to low to begin with compared to the surrounding installed tiles. These are an amazing system to have for sharp edged rectified tiles. With a properly prepped floor this will not only speed your install but also pretty much guarantee a perfectly flat floor. I couldn't imagine doing a rectified tile without these! Great informative video Sal!
Thanks for watching my video.
best tile setter on youtube. great videos.
WOW I was already sold on the tile levelling system but I’m even more so now. They should change the name from levelling system to LIPPAGE system. Thanks for explaining everything like you do. Yoh remind me of my father who taught me how to tile and I can incorporate what I’ve already leaned into your videos.
Thanks for watching my video.
He has some in his store that are the bigger pieces which work better than the older smaller wedges.
You are the tile setter that you tube needs. Thanks for doing it right!
I see a lot if know it all that don't have a clue.
Thanks for doing these videos! I'm a carpenter that does tile been doing tile for years. This system is works for a better job. The right mud underneath is key, as for pulling tile up I think the tile will move to least resistance. I think if the mud is right it will flex up and dry.
The adhesive quality of the thinset will always make the direction of least resistance down. Try setting a tile into thinset. making sure you get the required minimum coverage of 80%, 95% in a wet area, slip a margin trowel under it and see just how hard it is to pry up.
I always check and it's tough to pop the bond. I never used the level system on the walls though, do you always use it now on the walls or does it depend on the tile.
It will flex and dry in a good way .
Pretty much for all larger tiles.
Just before the video gets to one minute you can realise that sal is a true master tiler. I seriously cannot believe anybody has the cheek to even comment badly on this guys videos. Sals work will still be standing strong for the next thirty years or so.
Who knows???? He’s that thorough with his work I bet those tiled bathrooms he’s done will still be standing long after the houses.
This man is as old school as they come whilst also adapted to the modern products(which basically make it easier for us). Much respect man. 👊🏼
It is a changing industry, keep up or be left behind.
Sal DiBlasi-Exactly. But us old school heads will always have the upper hand though,through hands on experience,and dealing with the unexpected shit you come across day in day out. Can’t be taught that or read it from a book. Can only be learnt on site in the trenches 😂
Great video I’ve been tiling for 18 years your right agree with u 200 percent I won’t tile without it . I’ve used all types of leveling systems my favorite is spin doctor I use to use Tuscan but the clips has got exspensive so I switch to spin doctor . But they are all good .
We like lev-tech. Agree with everything you're saying once again. love to see someone else sliding the wedge between the tile and using it as a lippage detector. good on ya!
I was really on the fence about a leveling system but you have convinced me! Thank you. .... (I do think you should have someone help you with audio/video troubles because you have some good information you could pass on.... )
You were the first guy I saw use these so I trusted it was a good thing, so I used a product called the "spin doctor " I used them on 8x 48 planks , over 1000 sq feet and not only was it fun but fast and boy did that floor come out flat!!! There is no way I could have gotten this floor that flat without a leveling system!
You will always get a better result with a leveling system, provided the tile is installed properly.
I tried the spin doctor leveling system but it just takes too long and not detailed enough how many turns for each and its different I think you will like the wedge shape better…
Love watching all your videos, learning from a master. Thanks a lot.
😀
I concur Sal ... I use T-Lock myself. The main reason I use that system is because of the elasticity of the white tees. I have used other similar systems that were brittle and prematurely snapped off. Sever situations I have pre floated to level the floor. It saves u a lot of grief even on new construction ... thanks again.
I agree with Robert about the ease of the T Lock system. Used the Progress system originally and found a lot of premature snapping of the stems. I also have the MLT system which is nice except for all the time you spend cleaning the straps and getting the little nubs out of the clip. T Lock is much simpler and straightforward
John Brady I hear ya on the nubs. If I get any ... I just use a razor knife to re-score the nub and it usually pops right out. Most of the time I only get a few. The system works great. I tried the twist on ... wasn't to keen on that. Tended to scratch the surface on a high gloss tile. Later.
sal, put some knee pads on. Im groaning just watching you. I floated everything up to about 8 years ago. with construction today they should t lock from the roof to the basement. o yea,comb your hair. Thank you so much jerry doyle in va.
You are a good person to put tiles you teach me a lot thank you
holy chit Sal!!! You're almost at 100k! Congrats. Looking at installing tile and looking at these tile leveling solutions.
Great explanation! I am just finishing up a shower/bathroom which is my first time using a leveling system to assist with the 20" long tile! It has really proven to work fantastically throughout laying of both vertical and horizontal (floor) tiling! I think I will move to the T-Lock system next time! Thanks!
😊👍
Excellent explanation Sal...sure many of us are great enough installers to get large format and planks really close without clips(depending on manufacturing quality), but there's NOTHING better than perfect and that's what, as a professional, we should all be trying to achieve with our installs...
Exactly, if there is a way to make it better, why not use it.
I agree on using the leveling system with plank tiles such as 8x36 or 8x46 etc...Those tiles actually bend! They're not flat. However....Leveling system is a slow go....Really slow. Whenever i use a leveling system i take twice as long to install the tiles. You still have to lift the tile up and put more thinset. Leveling system is just for holding heavy tiles to keep them from sinking down as thinset is curing and for fine tuning the tiles. Adding all those clips, edges and tightening them up takes a long time. In my opinion, It's not necessary to use it for tiles under 24x24.
Your subfloor is too uneven if you need to remove tiles during installation and add more thinset.
Great video, thanks! Your point at 12:50, talking about thinset shrinking as it cures, is a great point! I have had several "perfect" installations "settle" and "move" during the curing process.....so frustrating to come back the next day and have to pull tiles that didn't stay put....
We have the technology to avoid that now. 😊
I like these! I installed 24×10 tiles on my last job, I wish I had these. You are right though the larger tiles are not flat and can be difficult to work with. Good video.
Many people think that the bigger the tile the easier it is to install, it is quite the opposite.
Excellent demonstration
Your videos are very good. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
You are very welcome
Your freaking awesome... Your work is awsome, your description is awesome and people would do well to listen to your experience.
You are offering a few thousand dollar lesson, free!
Keep your making videos.
Thank you.
Btw i am serious not being sarcastic
👍
Thanks I was afraid d tile was coming up but u clarified dat for me it’s going down..keep them coming Sal
Hey how do you remove the plastic pieces that are between the grout lines? Do you just leave them in there after breaking off the top?
I've got to lay plank tiles that are 3ft x 9 inches what leveling system would you recommend. Great video.
I have been tiling 27 yrs and have been using the wedge system for the last 4 yrs
Good move.
another great video, thank you!
It seems only 1/16" leveling and spacer products being available at big box stores, at least near. They mention, "Produces 1/16 in. grout joints and may be used with traditional tile spacers up to 1/4 in."
Ever use traditional spacers and leveling systems?
I have, just set them right next to each other. The self leveling system goes under the tile and before you put your wedge or “bell” to finish the level add your tradition spacer to get the width you want
I use a leveling system and have used several different types and now like the bigger pieces which are easier on my fingers. So with the lippage, how much do I squeeze it how tight to make it? I was installing a plank wood tile and they all have the center area that comes up bows, so should I pull that center of each tile down to the the 33% of the other tiles. Oh wait I see you are discussing the bowing and 33%
I have been using the ramundi system for years and love them. I will use them on everything 20x20 rectified and up including all planks , which is pretty much every job I do
At want point do you consider using a TLS? Is it just with "large format" tile (15"+ on any edge)? Would you use it on smaller tile? For example, hand formed tile that might have more variation in thickness or flatness?
Really no point with smaller tile, I have tried it with 12x12 ,just to test a system. However if you have rectified tiles that have very narrow grout lines, it might be beneficial.
If your tiles have variable thickness any leveling system will not fix lippage created by inconsistent tile thicknesses as in the terracotta or even the new rage, cement tiles. The system will pull the bottoms level but the tops still won't meet flush so a leveling system will only make leveling those tiles harder to level the tops to each other. your mortar bed needs to be thick enough to compensate with hand tuned pressure for the thicker tile to meet top flush with a thinner tile.
Thank you sir. Question, i recently purchased a slab foundation home and we have had almost everything remodeled and now its time for flooring in the main area, kitchen, hallways bath and bedrooms, okay i want to ask your experienced opinion about whats a better look throughout the home. Our options are wood look tile, or this laminated wood flooring throughout home maybe carpet in kids room. Help help ive watched you alot and your work is always A+
When you take into consideration the service life of a tile floor, it has the lowest cost of any other flooring product. Sure initial cost might be a bit higher, but it will outlast any other product by many times.
@@SalDiBlasi thank you for the reply. I have been wanting the Wood look tile first choice but the stores have been trying to dis credit tile
@@SalDiBlasi which rooms would be most suitable areas for the best stylish look?
@@vocalone23 I have all kinds of areas with a wood look tile, so it all depends on the style you want for your room. Which stores have been dissuade you? They obviously don't know or care about proper standards and methods if they say it will not last.
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Noted your point about thinset shrinkage, which probably explained a time when I ended up with some lipage when I’d still swear was none when installed.
I regularly end up with layouts that need me to leave off half a room one day so I have someplace to work off on the next. I’d like to see how you deal with using the leveling system in this case. Ie. Leave them under tile, or maybe scrape a small void the next day..?
Thanks much
Floor has to be prepped flat before tile is installed.
@@SalDiBlasi Hey, thanks for reply though different question. How do you leave off one day and continue on the next with the leveling clips? Do you put them in and leave them over night, or scrape enough the next day to slip them under? Any videos where you show your process?
Is the T-Lock system your preferred one for long wood plank tile?
it has been
My brother I have been following you for years and you do very great work so please don't worry about the haters
I never worry about the trolls, they will always be people that love to hate. Thanks for watching my videos.👍😊
Excellent explanation.
😊
Hi Sal love the videos thanks! I used this system in my bathroom and came out great!
+Will Dog They really do help to get a better job.
have you ever tried the RTC spin doctor leveling system?
I have th-cam.com/video/fJ0zjwEJFC4/w-d-xo.html
I'm going to be installing 12"x24" tiles. I see the T lock system is available in 1/32", 1/16", and 1/8". Is that referring to the size of the grout line? Is there a "preferred" size with this size tile?
yes, size of the grout line. Watch this to figure out what size to use. th-cam.com/video/1CGgMTJsqGI/w-d-xo.html
Sal, I have started a job using 12x24 tile with 1/4 spacing and I am having an issue as you describe here with lipage. The question I have is can I use these with 1/4 inch spacers as well? I have dry fit the whole area and the 1/4 space makes everything work great the smaller grout line will not work as well and I really don't want to pull up what is already down....thanks for your time and videos
You can, however you will have to use the system in conjunction with the 1/4" spacers to maintain the 1/4" grout line
Sal DiBlasi Thank You very much!
Sal, desperately need your help. Can I pour self leveling cement over Redgard membrane? My floor was level prior to laying the membrane, but I think messed that up with the thinset underneath the membrane.
Generally the self leveler goes under the membrane, you will need to talk to custom to see what they recommend.
Hello Sal. Can you do a video on how to adjust the tool to slit in the wedges and why the adjustment is needed. Thanks Tim
Hi Sal- Thank you for all your videos and advice. I am installing 5/8" x 8" x 8" cement tile over Ditra Heat. Is it silly for me to use the leveling system as they are not large format? I am setting at 1/32" grout lines. Also, I set a dozen tiles and had to stop. I saw how you used the multi tool to create space to insert the new spacers, but will I have a height difference because the first tiles had no spacers or would my thin set bed make the difference?
Thanks for your advice!
I am using 13x20 textured tile (Rodano Rocks from The Tile Shop) on both the floor of my shower and the walls. Do you recommend using the tile leveling systems in the case where the surface of the tile isn't flush?
For that size tile a leveling system would be very beneficial.
Sal DiBlasi, I will look into getting that system then sir. Thank you.
What about using the wedge leveling system on a difference of say 3/16". I'd think this was the max dif to use on when properly buttering 12x 24 large f tile. Your thoughts Sal?
(Floor membrane added but no leveling compound as floor bowing/dipping is under 1/4" max dif)
Can you walk on tile if you use leveling sistem? How long you can walk on tile before adhesive start to cure?
Ok thanks yea as I bought the stuff today from the hardware store and I explained to the person helping us get the materials even was telling us to water proof and tape the corners
Sal, I bought the T lock system and will be using them for the first time. How necessary is that pair of pliers to the process? I was hoping to get away with setting the wedges manually.
Thank you for this video.
My pleasure!
Do you recommend using these with natural stone or marble? If you are working with Large Format natural stone tiles that vary in thickness going Broken Bond ,will it still bring the tiles Flush.? Also,does it increase the cost of installation and labor to the job?
Question: When you place the self-levelling spacers, do you place them so that they're directly under the tile or on the floor under the tile (leaving some mortar between spacer and tile)?
Directly under the tile.
Is there any chance of creating weak points in the bond with the leveling systems? Something I’ve always wondered. Haven’t used them much.
Not really a problem if the tile is installed properly.
U run rows of thinset on floor or wall and then I use v notch instead of flat troweling. Check tiles next morning for sound of coverage when u nock on them. If they sound hollow then pull up and reinstall. Coverage and quality grout job and shouldn’t have issues. Never install on waves floors Do ur prep and get coverage and u can’t beat the quality
Thank you sir. That's experience talking!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video...well done paisan
Sal thanks for the video. I relied on one of yours to finish my basement floor and used a leveling system and it looks great. But I ran into a problem and am curious how you handle it. Sometimes when I kick out the tabs and wedge when it's dried some of the tabs break halfway or even at the top of the tile leaving plastic I have to remove. I've tried dremeling it out but it never was a perfect solution. What do you do?
Best thing to do is always break them out the next day when the mortar has not cured. If the break high, scrape outh the thinset from around the tab, which will be easy at this point, so it is clear and then use the heal of a wedge to tap them out, works almost all the time. The longer you wait the harder the thinset the more difficult it will be.
If u hit them on side with ur rubber mallet and try to keep top of mallet flat against tile as u hit side of clip they won’t leave the plastic. I hate that. Takes forever to get prepped for grout. I finally figured out u keep top of mallet flushed with tile and hit on side they will not leave anything. And never wait to remove them. U get to job the next morning. Go ahead and remove them. I waited all weeekend once and several left plastic behind even when I hit the side correctly.
Hit them on the side on most clips with wedges still in Only leveling system that does better hitting back of wedges is ramondi system but cheap clips on Amazon are better and u don’t need pilers when u torque down. Some systems break clips when u torque down with hands instead of pliers. I like that about cheap clips on Amazon. I don’t need pliers. But u do have t hit them right or pain in the ass getting them out. Even w dermal
Hi i am a x bricklayer and can tile but not a tiler , there is a difference , just tile my bathroom , the instructions on my tiles was 1/3 but i wanted 50 50 on my pattern tile size is about 15" , i used this system for the first time ,no lip on any tile i can see or feel ,i think there are professionals who dont like any new systems what make it more easy for the diy person to do the job for them self , and if you are a professional and if any thing can make you job better or easy why not use any new system , sal you make great video,s
Excatly, use all the tools that will make the job better, faster and easier.
Hi Sal do you use slow set or fastset when using a levelling system on a floor. I find they work much better when using a slow set, would appreciate your opinion thanks.
The only time I use a quickset is when I wetshim Kerdi-Board, otherwise just an LFT thinset for large format tile.
I’m about to contract someone to install 12x24 tiles and he told me he doesn’t use leveling system because they leave an empty space in the thinset, he guarantees it won’t be any lippage, that’s the reason why I’m watching these videos
If he says that, then he does not understand how they work, Hold him to his promise.
Doesn’t matter that little bit of glue what holds the tile is the cement aka grout and if you use his logic you will have more concrete grout space which will hold the tile more aka better not less.
What would u recommend for the t lock system spacer. 1/8 1mm ,1/16 2 mm or 1/32 3mm. I can't decide how much space i should go for grouting. Thanks!
1/8" which is 3mm
@@SalDiBlasi Thank u, I type out the mm wrong. Your abdolutely right 1/8" is 3mm. Thanks for the recommendations
Hey Sal, if you had choose just one leveling system to use exclusively, which one would you choose? T-Lock, MLT?
T-Lock, the one I sell because it is the one I use dibsmart.com/
Thanks for the insight,
Can you do a video of you levelling an uneven floor up with self leveller. Every time I do it the floor is never level.
Self leveler is a misnomer, requires much more than just pouring the stuff onto a floor.
Sal DiBlasi So true. I'd appreciate seeing you do it and achieving a flat level floor
As a tile setter myself, I use to think that only loser use the leveling system but eventually learned that it is a tool. Its kinda like saying a car mechanic isn't a mechanic just because he uses a scan tool to know whats wrong with the car. Aside from these useful tools there is still skill in what we do from tile setting to fixing cars....
Agreed, use the tools that are available to make out lives easier and to do a better job. Are you on FaceBook? is so are you a member Of Tile Geeks? If not, let me know.
Why the T Lock system?
Keith K because this system fits all tile size/thickness along with most cost effective.
Sal, should the Ditra also be set with room for expansion, or is it the tile that's most critical?
Yes
Couldnt agree more.
Love the leveling system. Only used QEP so far. I like yours ... wider wedges.
Manufacture kind of sells them as a beginner turn pro kind of product. Its not!
One must still level the tile 90%+
I feel though on a 20" tile it almost needs 3clips across. To counter act the suction from middle of the tile.
I have found after clamping the wedge, tamping the tile helps it settle in.
Another benifit of the system.. especially for begimners is that the leveling system... clamps the two tiles together. So as you work on adjacent tiles.. less chance of movement
Question.. should mortar be weter to assist level system in working?
+TurboFlush I usually mix my thinset on the high side of the water content, but still in the recommended amount, use an LFT mortar with large tiles, it does make a difference.
Sal DiBlasi LFT?
thanks for the great video Sal....sometimes you talk about premium thinset, not what they sell at home depot!!! my wife and I are ready to tackle our kitchen floor. we're installing ditra heat and would like to know what you recommend for the matt to the osb subfloor....I know it has to be modified but what brand is best? I can not get the the new stuff that schluter makes around here. everyone is telling me the buy in is to much and they don't want to??? any help would be appreciated, oh and I can get my hands on ardex
Since you can't get the Schluter thinset, then any premium modified thinset will work, some examples are Mapei Ultraflex 2, Ardex X5, Laticrete 253 Gold, or any thing above this grade for each company. To install the Ditra make sure you by the regular version of thinset not the LFT (Large Format Tile) version. Mix it loose, but still able to hold a notch. Here is a detailed explanation of Ditra, th-cam.com/video/YpXEXqbh7ok/w-d-xo.html
Sal DiBlasi thank you so much for the explanation...I just didn't know what a premium thinset actually was.....must be just the brand
All manufactures make lower end thinsets, they have less of the components that makes a thinset great, they do have their uses, but when reliability is critical, better to use a superior product.
I'm installing 175 sq ft of Travertine tile, the Versailles pattern, with 5 different sizes of tile in each kit. This is 1/2 in stone tile, my grout size is 1/2", so my first question is: will this system work? Seems I would need 1/2" removable spacers in any event.
Second question is: I'm laying the Travertine over 54 sq ft of newly poured concrete (heavily used entryway) and the remaining sq ft over concrete that had a linoleum floor I chiseled up (a library.) I'm slowly scrapping off the old linoleum black glue off the older concrete floor to get it clean. Do I need to use the Schluter Ditra in both areas just to be safe?
I would use ditra for sure, and I would grind the old concrete to make sure the pores are open for a good bond. 1/2 grout line seems very wide, but might not be avoidable if the tile and pattern require it. The T-Lock will work in conjunction with a spacer.
Thank you for the feedback. The library (121 sq ft) had carpet over 8"x8" linoleum tiles on top of concrete. Once, I got all that up , I used a small pneumatic needle de-scaler to remove the old linoleum glue that was stuck to the concrete. That leaves me with a fresh surface on the concrete for the thinset to stick to when I lay down the Schluter®-DITRA material. Grout thickness is a 1/4", not 1/2". Pilot error.
Jesse how are you getting the linoleum glue up? My whole lower level has linoleum stuck to cement. I discovered it after removing wet carpet and wet floating floor (sewer backup). I want to waterproof the area and eventually apply tile. I can see I also have a leveling problem.
Hey Rochelle- I went to Harbor Freight and bought the smaller compact Air Needle Scaler ($30). I already have an air compressor in the garage, and these are relatively inexpensive at HF as well. I put on my headphones with an audiobook and knocked it out over a three day period. I did need to wear a respirator because of the silica dust in the concrete.. I tried chemicals but they didn't budge the dried glue: the air needle scaler punch right through and as a benefit, left the concrete surface a little roughed up for the thinset to adhere to. There are companies that will come in with a grinder sander setup to take that top surface off as well if you go for a pro to save the time.
Correction: grout distance will be 1/8" not 1/2".
Great explanation
Hey Sal I've got a question/problem I'm hoping you can help me resolve when it comes to this system. I've just started using it on the last couple jobs I've done, but my biggest problem is that quite often when I go to "lock" the tiles into place using the tool, the tiles actually push apart creating a bigger grout line then desired. I have to constantly use a rubber mallet to try and bang the tiles back tight to the spacer. Have any tips for me to resolve this issue? I just did a bathroom floor with 20"x20" tiles, used a 1/2" square notch trowel, back combed the tiles, collapsed the ridges before using the tool, and still when I go to lock them in place they would push apart. I was using 1/16" spacers and they were pretty much consistently an 1/8" grout line. Thanks.
First off always push the wedges toward the set tiles, not away, if it is the first couple of rows, towards the straight edge if you are using one. The reason you are getting a wider grout line than you want, may not be for the reason you think. Unless a tile is rectified, it will not have a square edge, the bottom edge of the porcelain tile will be wider than the top edge, on a bit of an angle. So when you push them together the bottom will touch the spacer first and leave the top grout line wider than the spacer. I hope I explained that clearly.
Hi Sal, this is an older video, but would it be worthwhile using t-lock system when installing 3x12 or 4x12 subway tile for wall or also for 8x8 floor tile? Thanks again for great instructional videos
No, leveling systems work best on large format tiles.
Sal DiBlasi thanks again!
Thanks Sal. Do you have a video (or know of one) which talks about installing smaller tiles and leveling the "old fashioned" way? I see lots of discussion of how to install thinset, grout, ditra, etc. but nothing about getting smaller tiles level.
What do you mean by smaller tiles? 12x12, mosaic, subway?
13x13, rectified tiles. Subfloor is quite flat. Installed square (not offset).
Very well explained!👍👍👍
Do you use a leveling system on all tiles or just large format? I have a bathroom floor to do using 8x8 porcelain and I'm debating on picking up a system to use or not.
Just large format, would be a waste on 8x8
Sal great video thank you . Quick question how do you slide a tile with the leveling system. I'm currently using the qep lash system. Got it before I watched this video. It's hard to slide tile to get full coverage with those in place, anyway you could demo this technique using full installation.
Thanks
If you have the rounded bases, you need to use a very large trowel.
Closed caption: "Only cabbages meet tile leveling systems. I get a lot of that."
Sal, can a large format tile say 12x24, "warp" when it comes in contact w/ water-based thin-set?
+Oldpuck81 depends on the tile, there are many stones that have to be set with epoxy because they are sensitive to water and will curl.
Thanks Sal!! 💯👍
You bet
Can’t thank you enough for these great videos 😁😁😁
Thanks, glad it helped
As always great info and big help
Also, off topic, what is the best way to handle the wall tile/floor tile intersection? I didn't tile the lowest row on the wall and the floor tile has not been installed. Do I tile the floor first and then the wall? Should the wall tile be under the wall tile with an appropriate gap above? I love your videos and thought I watched all of them, but I must have missed you tackle that subject. Thank you in advance!
+Mark K best way to do it is to have the floor down first and then the wall tile on top, always leave room for movement.as far as the pliers for the T-Lock system, they are not needed, but they do mkae it easier.
Thanks Sal!
Sal, I just subscribed! Your video helps me a ton! Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Thanks, and you'r welcome. 😀
Would you need to use a leveling system for small format 3" x 6" tile?
No not a good idea, best for large format tiles.
Thanks, Sal!
Hi Sal, thanks mil for your videos. For a novice tiler would you recommend mlt or t-lock? With t-locks I'll be afraid wedges move the tiles and wont know how to correct them, but on the other hand they seem easier to work with than mlt...? 35 sqm of 24x24 porcelain tiles. Thanks mil not only for your videos but also for all the advices in comments. Tnx
T lock for sure, MLT is great but has a steep learning curve.
Sal have a question. How do you do it to go around curves when installing tiles.