We want to inform you about a recent stop use alert issued by John Deere for the 1023E, 1025R, and 2025R models built between November 17, 2017, and September 30, 2022. John Deere will be reaching out directly to customers with affected machines to provide further instructions and support. At 21st Century, your safety and satisfaction are our top priorities. We’re pleased to report that less than 1% of our current in-stock inventory is affected by this issue. Rest assured, any affected machines will undergo the necessary Performance Improvement upgrade and thorough testing before delivery to ensure they meet the highest standards of performance and safety. If you have any concerns or would like to verify whether your machine is affected, please contact your local John Deere dealership for assistance. Thank you for your understanding and continued trust in 21st Century and John Deere.
Thanks for the prompt feedback. As always, we are impressed with 21st Century Equipment, and your commitment to your customers. Thanks for taking the time to respond! You guys are setting the standard for Deere dealerships!
Tim, thanks for using your channel to announce this as well. The more the word gets out, the safer us owners can be.You've gotten more eyes to this issue in an hour, than I did in a day 😂. And thank you for mentioning me.
Outstanding job! I've been less than impressed with Deere lately. Between the DEI mess, and the move to Mexico plan, I've bought my last John Deere. Thanks for all you do with this channel--to say it's "handy" would be an understatement. #GodBlessAmerica
@@StephenPaul1160 I am more concerned about American jobs and manufacturing than about someone's woke status. I don't like DEI crap either but that is not as important and USA made and the jobs it brings.
Makes sense. Mine split in two early this year. Wasn’t too bad to change myself. Did a couple of jobs without brakes while a new one shipped to me. Stayed on near level ground and used the bucket as my e-brake.
I wouldn’t believe everything you are seeing in social media and on the news. Too many people are reading the headlines and jumping to conclusions without understanding what is really happening.
@@Look_What_You_Did You must not have heard.. they are moving all manufacturing to Mexico. It is likely I too will be looking elsewhere since John Deere apparently thinks profits are more important than customers. They had over $10 billion in profits last reported... but decided to cut costs by moving all those jobs out of the USA. If they are not going to support the USA, I see no need to continue supporting John Deere. As my tractors and all my attachments wear out, I will likely now start looking to other companies and see what they have to offer.
@@gregoryjewell5875 Really? Because I contacted John Deere directly as I was getting ready to buy another tractor.. So you are trying to tell me that on top of everything else, that now John Deere Corporate is lying to me as well? Yea, sorry, I will take their own word over someone on the internet. Those two factories are being closed. Operations being moved to Mexico.
Thanks for noticing. Looks much better even than the video we published this morning (filmed 10 days ago). It is totally full now! We'll see how fast it leaks.
This is more than just a "stopping" issue. I always use the Park function when I get off of the tractor. Depending where the interlock is in the system, we may not be able to park or un-park the tractor!
Hello Tim, I have one of those rare 2012 1026Rs. I checked my stopping lever just now and it appears to be a black steel looking piece. I remember the air cleaner mount problem. Mine was made where my tractor wasn't affected by the recall. Thanks for your videos. They have been most helpful over the years. :)
I am so glad that they are FINALLY taking this problem serious! I have had this same part break 5 TIMES in the past ~5 years. Each time was terrifying especially while on a slope carrying a load. I have repeatedly told the dealership about this problem and they seem to always blow me off.
Well, I used to work at the factory where these tractors were built. The date codes are the middle alpha characters immediately following the model, the only other letters are the 1LV at that front which is the Augusta GA factory. So the 9th &10th characters, just after 1LV2025R for 2025R variants. There are 2 different years represented by 2 different characters, one is the fiscal year and the other is calendar year. The non matching letters are the 3 months where the years don't coincide between October and December. After the year code is a randomly selected alpha character is used just to keep people from more easily creating false documentation with warranty claims. The dealer will verify that engines and transaxles match the tractor serial number, as well. ROPS is verified as well. That part number is fairly new as it starts with a LVU3xxxxx. Most of the parts on those tractors are LVU2xxxxx. To me, it looks like a different casting was made. The new part is still a casting just from looking at the CAD model, I didn't work on that production line so I don't know the details on the change, but if I had to guess it got changed from aluminum to steel. Maybe someone can put a magnet on their part if they have a newer tractor or perhaps. If the magnet sticks it's steel and likely it's painted black. Compact utility tractors get black painted parts. Larger utility tractors get green painted parts. If someone can verify a material change was made and/or if it's painted, it could help others identify if they have the suspect part on their tractor. Aluminum parts aren't painted. Sometimes they get anodized, but painting doesn't help with corrosion. Aluminum is like copper, it gets a patina then it stops corroding. Copper gets a green patina and aluminum is grey making it look hazy. Just for clarification, the 2025R is considered a 2 series tractor. These however are considered Small Chassis Compact Utility tractors. The 2032R and 2038R variants are considered Large Chassis Compact Utility Tractors along with 3E. The other 3 series tractors are considered Premium Compact Utility Tractors. These descriptions are the manufacturing classsification. The model numbers are marketing. The E model is the basic model and the R series is the higher end model in their respective series. There is some overlap in between how they number series are manufactured. The 3E and 2R Large are very similar even sharing the same engines. But they are differently marketed. The 3E is considered marketed for agriculatural use. Whereas the 2R Large is marketed for general commerical use. The marketing is marketing. In most cases you can use 3E and 2R Large to do a lot of the same things. But there are advantages to having the 3E higher ride height. Things like rear PTO attachments are shared a lot between the two. The advantage of the 2R Large are preminum quality build with higher end features like cruise control and the loader that you easily swap out for something like a snow blower.
We've only had a problem with that part breaking on one of our 1025r. 4 different times now , I attributed to operator error , I got tired of spending money on the part at Deere so I've been getting a friend to make the part for us . And have had no problems since.
Thank you for the information. I use my parking brake on my 1023e all the time. Mine's a 2021. When I get off the tractor to do something quick like pull the pins to remove the bucket, I put it in neutral and set the parking brake. I can't pull the pins if the bucket is on the ground.
Thanks Tim for the update. I assume the "new part" will be steel in lieu of aluminum. I'm not a "Deere guy" but hats off to them for trying to correct this issue. They are a quality manufacturer. Keep up the great videos. I watch all the time.
5 years ago, after using an 8n for 4 years, I was looking to buy my first NEW tractor. Went to all the dealers. Did all tje research. When the Deere dealer wouldn't even talk to me I left and bought a Kubota. It is now well used and fully paid for. I will never regret that decision.
Hey Tim: Thank you for the heads up. I only use my brake on my 2019 1023e for parking. It is also garaged between uses so I don't think corrosion would be an issue for my tractor. My tractor is down right now because the self centering bearing on the auto-connect driveshaft has failed. The parts just came in so I'm on my way to pick them up today. I will check the condition of that bracket when I do the repair. Thanks again, great job as always.
I know this post is two months old but I believe the 10th digit is the year code on autos and if it is a 17 digit vin that is usually the digit that refers to the year. Good Luck Tim and keep up the great work.
Now they need to fix the snap ring situation on the rockshaft because the “updated” version with the thicker snap ring still keeps coming apart from just raising and lowering the deck. My tractor did this at 115 hours. If you are not aware of the snap ring coming off the rockshaft arm # LVU 22058 can walk off and get bent. It is now part of my walk around inspection before using the tractor.Side note: check the motor mount bolts also. Mine literally fell out at 25 hours!
Thanks for the info. I use my brake regularly when I drive up/down trailer ramps as well as when I drive over my mower deck. I will see what JD comes out with for the fix.
Florida, no slopes. I have only used it a few times hooking up an implement. Retired farmer, my 1023E is just a small toy compared to the tractors I drove for over 27 years. Hydro static drive, if I need to stop I can just push the opposite pedal.
Thanks Tim you always provide such up to date thorough content. I have a model year 2023 2025R. I called JD dealer and they confirmed my tractor build date was 6/13/23. I looked at the brake linkage and I can clearly see it's made out a cast aluminum, Its still really shiny at 50 hrs. According to the recall my tractor is past the recall date. The dealer recorded all my concerns and will contact me when they know more about this recall. I plan to get a picture of the linkage and provide it to dealer. I have a very hilly property and rely heavily on my brake every time I use the tractor, especially when parked. I would also think JD will come out with a new part number that supersedes the old. Thank you!
I had seen this on Facebook but I was waiting for you to cover this. thank you. they need to be quick with this b/c winter is around the corner and we can't get out of the driveway at times without plowing.
Thanks for the info. I purchased my 1025R in August of 2017. I am going to have to call the dealer to see if my tractor is affected. I looked at the bell crank and it is aluminum but does not look like the one you illustrate in the pics. I am just ok with my experience level. Flat lander also. I don't use my brake to stop, but I use it all the time when I am lifting with the front end loader or forks. Don't know if that's good or bad but makes me feel more secure when doing it.
I just use the reverse pedal to control my down hill decents and the forward pedal to hold position if on an uphill climb. I have done this since I got my 445 back in 1994 and it was easy to continue the habit on the 1026R. I only use the brakes for parking. When I lost the brakes on the 445 I finished out the winter before fixing the brakes by just dropping the Snow Blower to the ground to hold the machine in place and I would do the same with the FEL or three point attachment if I ever lost the brakes on the 1026R after all, if I am only needing the brakes to park, the FEL or three point attachment setting on the ground will hold in all but the most extreme locations.
@@Look_What_You_Did Another comment drew attention to how it doesn't run up to the newest machines, and took that to suggest they discovered the issue in 2022. With the first knowledge of it being shared with the public being in August 2024, you can make your own assumptions of how they could have been more forthcoming. However, what the original commenter probably meant, they're finding out through a channel, that was sent a link from another party of a video uploaded on another channel, a video that will have taken time to record and upload, and one that isn't John Deere. Why wasn't the video/source of information linked from John Deere themselves, or Tim's closer links with a dealer the avenue the information came through? If John Deere made the effort to share the information with their customers as soon as possible, surely the first sources of information that people would be sharing around would be something more directly tied to John Deere rather than what seems like a lot of third parties possibly discovering this stuff for themselves.
Tim, thanks for the advanced notice. In the meantime, I did inspect the part on my 2021 1025R, and found no incipient cracks. At least we can keep an eye on it until the replacement is available.
My wife and I teach in Liberia, so I was out of the country, when this all broke. But, I received my letter from JD for my 2020 1025r upon our return. My "local" dealer, which is about 60 miles away, got all of the affected owners in my area together, came up and fixed us all on the same day. Shout out to Belkorp Ag in Modesto, CA; excellent service and no charge. I did have to wait for a week or so while they coordinated the visits, but everything was smooth and easy.
Thanks Tim! Like many others this is the first I heard of this. The one on my 1023E is still intact although, like you, I rarely use the brake. I'll be aware of the problem but not going to use it as an excuse to not mow. :)
“The newest one doesn’t show the issue” is they likely learned about it previously, and didn’t notify the public. Probably were crossing their fingers that it wouldn’t become a generally known issue to the public
In my opinion, the flipping roll bar is the most dangerous item on these tractors. I do a lot of wooded lot mowing. Which puts me in around lower branches of trees. When In first bought my 1023e, the rol bar almost got me hurt bad. I took it off.
Still got the 2014 model, but this is nice to know if I get a newer one in the future. I did upgrade the air cleaner on mine so that mounts around the radiator.Thanks for the heads up Tim.
This is the first I have heard of this. Thank you. I no longer live in Tipton so Reynolds on 31 probably do not have a good address for me. Edited 8/1/2024: Reynolds had my current address and transferred my tractor to Green Mark in Lagrange, IN. Service there contacted Deere and confirmed the recall is real. They will be confirming if mine is in the recall by serial number. Deere cautioned the dealer to tell me it should not be used (I think I hear lawyers).
Thanks Tim I got one and live in the rolling hills of Ohio near pa and wv I’ll be sure to inspect that I found couple years ago it doesn’t hold well on a hill thought either brake is worn or needed adjustment I never bothered and like you I learn to dump the loader in emergency or as a brake
Unfortunately, I understand the frustration with JD. Have you had any rear end leaks on Johnny? My 1025r will be in for the fourth time for rear end leaking hydraulic fluid. Every gasket has failed, pumps replaced. Only 260 hours on my 2021 and nothing but problems
Thanks for the heads up! Much appreciated! As far as using the brake, I am a flatlander myself. But, I must set the brake or throw a brick on the seat on my 3E if i want to use the PTO for the hay elevator, buzz saw or transfer pump. Is it safe to assume the 1&2 series operate the same way?
Tim I’ve already seen this on google and my only thought is this if this has been an issue how can this be an issue seeing these have been in use for 5 years now why not just put it as free replacement item and just schedule an appointment with your dealer
I decided not to wait on JD parts to be made, and I bought a bell crank for my 2025R off Ebay ($53). This one was fabricated with steel and welded(much stronger). It took me less than 45 minutes to install, and would probably take someone who has done it before about 25 minutes. I suggest you put the tractor on level ground and block the wheels for safety. Use a 13mm wrench (a 1/2 inch will also work, but remember the two bolts are metric, M8 - 1.25) and it is helpful to have a long screwdriver for leveraging off the rod that goes back to the rear axle/brake. When finished, I replaced the cotter pin with a new one. Remember that the rod (which goes to the back of the tractor) is on springs and can be pulled forward by hand, to help you line up the brake rod hole in the crank. Both original bolts through the bell crank do NOT have nuts. You will see that the original bolts (when backing them out) will literally eventually hit part of the frame, but if you tip the head of the bolt back and wriggle, you have just enough room to get the bolts completely out. I used a ratcheting 1/2" box wrench, but then had to switch to a crescent wrench, otherwise the ratcheting wrench will get stuck [because the bolts are flanged] when the bolt is nearly out. Note that only the axle (?) itself is threaded. I discovered that the original bell crank is caste [aluminum ???] and cheaply made. The caste crank is only threaded about 25%. There is no need to jack the tractor up because there is plenty of room [unless you have a big stomach] to crawl on your back under the right side of the tractor. The bell crank is on the RIGHT side of the tractor, directly beneath where the heal of your shoe is, when your right foot is on the (foreward/reverse) pedals. It's a simple fix because the part is 100% metal and there is no electronics or plastics, etc., involved. Local people are fabricating them from steel in their shops [welding]. JD plans on sending techs to your home and doing the needed replacements there, so you don't have to go to a dealership. But the fix is pretty easy, if you want to do it yourself. Again, I got the part for about $53 from someone probably fabricating them in their garage or metal working job. Honestly, a 12 year old boy could probably figure out how to do the removal/installation, but remember, the rod that goes between the crank and the rear brakes is with springs so it can be easily moved back and forth to line it up with the crank hole (top) again. [Don't have the parking brake on when doing the replacement.]
I sent an email through the Deere website for my local dealer. This is where I purchased the 2018 1025R, and have had every service done, attempting to schedule to get it in for the recall. That was a month ago with NO RESPONSE!
got mine about 10 days ago for my 2025r my neighbor across the street got his a couple days ago. he talked to the dealer and apparently you can do it yourself once the parts are available or wait for dealer availability to do it. idk how true any of that is
I have enjoyed your videos and found them quite informative. Thanks for all the good information. I do find interesting that the paperwork shows my 1025R came off the line Dec 2023. but the the part looks very similar. May be a bit beefier, just hard to tell without the 2 different pieces.
Just broke mine two weeks ago and paid $130 with expedited shipping for the part and replaced it. It was the identical aluminum part. Didn’t really use the brake but thought it may have been from hitting on mower deck taking on and off if it wasn’t lined up.
TY for the update, wish I had known about the filter brkt issue. I had to have a new engine installed. Luckily the covered it all but was down for awhile.
Not much more than a month ago, the bell crank on my 1025R broke. Fortunately, I noticed this on level ground. My property is fairly hilly, and I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve been positioned in a way that if that bell crank had broke on one of those hills, I could’ve been crushed. As an extra precaution, I’ll chock the wheels from now on. I paid $279 to have mine fixed. I wonder if I’ll be getting a refund?
Tim just curious if you have any updates on the 1025R recall. My letter said for my year the parts should be available in December. When I contacted my dealer they said the parts are on back order and will be at least 3 months out
I have received 4 letter now …all of them identical. No idea what is going on. …but par for the course right now. Deere can’t get out of its own way in 2024!
Interesting. My 1025r was built in the first half of 2017 (it has the straight up ROPS rather rhan the angled ROPS made later that year) & is not included in the PIP. The brake arm is aluminum & is not cracked (as i expected since the brakes work fine). I wonder what changed about this part mid-2017.
Thanks for the information and the warning. I bought my 2025R in 2016 and will inspect what I have. Would this be an additional reason for JD to leave the U.S. and set up in Mexico? Sounds like all bellcranks need to be changed to steel.
I received a recall letter from John Deere. I called my local John Deere dealer where I purchased my 1023e and they set up an appointment to have the part replaced. They came to my house and picked up the tractor, replaced the part and returned the tractor a few days later. As long as they had the tractor there, I had them change the engine oil and filter and grease job. No complaints here.
That's interesting. My 1025R's bell crank broke several months ago. I was on level ground and moving slowly when the brake pedal went forward and slack. When I ordered a replacement, my dealer (40 mins away) got me the wrong one the first time and it took me a second round trip and several hours of struggling to get the broken piece off and new part back on. The new one I got is still the cast aluminum variety. Also agree that the machine is not safe to use when the brake pedal is not working unless you're on perfectly flat ground. I don't have much of that here on the property and so chose not to operate except to take the garbage bins out to the road.
Hi Tim and thanx for the great heads up. I have a 2018 1025R with 700+ hrs on it. The brake is working fine on today's job site, but I will be fabbing up a steel bell crank to replace this cheesy aluminum joke of a part. Why would deere make a part that is clearly made to fail?! The design is fine...being a cast part is fine...but being a cast "aluminum" brake part with very little material in a very critical area of the part, is a huge FAIL!!!! Again, Thank you Tim and God bless you even more than today!
For those with drive over mid-mount mowers the loss of brakes could add risk and difficulty with connecting/disconnecting, especially if he FEL isn't removed first.
I got my Deere letter yesterday. It says in part, "A PIP program has been developed, and you will be notified when it has been released to your authorized dealer. At that time your tractor will be repaired at no cost to you." And then below that it shows a list of date Releases that apply to each different model year. My release date is Nov. 22, 2024. So, I'll call my local dealer and see if I should bring in my tractor on that date. So there should be no worry as to who will foot the bill for this PIP.
How do recalls work in the tractor world? I'm from the auto/big truck industry, you can drive your unit in to get fix 100% parts labor. Sometimes towing too. Do they pay for towing your tractor to the dealer? I know they are not going to pay for a service call to your property. It seems doubtful they would just give you the parts to fix yourself on a safety issue. Curious anyone, past experience?
I'm not sure there has been a significant tractor recall (in the compact tractor world) since I've been involved in the industry. I do not think it is regulated as tightly as the auto industry.
When younger I drove a Farmall 400 without brakes for years, no hydrostatic and no bucket, always needed to think ahead , especially when towing a hay wagon. Most difficulty occurred when attempting to latch onto an implement.
@@gregoryjewell5875People that have not been farmers in the past have no idea how we had to improvise to get the task at hand done. Still today I use the bucket tilt on the tractor to move that 1 inch back or forth to connect an implement if I am putting it on my self without a driver in the seat.
Nice PSA. I am not affected by it, but the notifications via the chain that "is trying to determine an as yet undetermined solution" could be slower than molasses from the refrigerator.
Wow. I just dodged that bullet. My 1023E was delivered in September 2017. Not sure what build date was but i bought it new then from a dealer. Anyways, i've been very happy with it for the 8 years i've had it.
BTW, the ROPS situation, I literally am the person that bought one of the first 1025r's and contacted John Deere about an extremely dangerous problem. I had the thing only a couple days and I was not yet used to the ROPS or the tractor. I was mowing and hit a branch that was lower than I realized and the tractor went vertical and lifted off the ground literally before slamming back down still vertical... and the ROPS did not release like it is supposed to do. It is design to hold solid in a roll over but is supposed to release if sent backward, i.e. it catches on something like a tree branch, after so much torque or pressure is applied in that direction. Mine did not budge. I called John Deere directly because the dealer had never heard of such a thing happening and so John Deere actually sent an engineer from one of their main plants to look at my unit and found that the pins/parts used were the wrong metal density or something along that line. A couple weeks later they came back and put all new attachments on the ROPS and we did some tests right there in the field. My dealer called me a couple days later and said they had just gotten the recall notice for replacing ROPS parts to resolve this issue (which of course they knew I no longer needed) so that was pretty nice to know they, John Deere corporate and the dealer took it seriously when a customer out of the blue called them. From what I understand, John Deere re-engineered the ROPS design for later models of the 1 and 2 series because of that.
@@TractorTimewithTim They told me on rollover of course not. But when you hit something like that, under certain load it is supposed to release backward, the same as if you folded it backward, some part is supposed to give before the tractor is flipped over backward. I nearly went over backward and had my reflexes not reacted, that would have happened... as it was I ended up off the ground then vertical with the tractor sitting pointing straight up thankfully as it slid off that tree branch I hit. Took another tractor to help bring the thing back down on its wheels. They told me it was a part which failed to break or release or something.. hard to remember now.. thus the recall shortly after they were put out that year. I want to say it was 2017 or 2018 if I remember right. I bought that before we bought this new property and upgraded to the 2032 about 4.5 years ago.
Funny I was just reading about this a few weeks ago and seen the pics and people complaining about it. Another issue, that oil cap on the side, the radiator hose can rub it and put a hole in it! I read about it and mine has the issue too and about had a hole in the hose. I got an extra hose just in case and zip tied a piece of hose over the rubbed area on the old hose and shaved off some plastic on the oil cap.
Mine broke the other week. I was already stopped. I just put down my box blade to hold the tractor in place and went to the dealer to get a new brake bell crank. It was very easy to install. I'm eager to see how they change the design/materials, because the one they gave me looks just like the one that failed and is made of the same grade of metal. I'm used to having parts break on machines. I fix machines all the time. I didn't have any clue that this was a bigger problem than just my machine. And the dealership didn't have anybody else come in to get a replacement or have them fail on other tractors (talked to a master technician for 1,2, and 3 series machines).
Back when I worked for John Deere one of their Z turn mowers had a recall. The frames were breaking. John Deere sent us new frames and I had to take off all the parts off the old frame and put them on the new frame. Also had a recall on plastic hydraulic tanks on Zero turn mowers. The plastic tanks would melt and ruin the hydraulic drive. John Deere fix was to mount a fan on the plastic tank and replace hydraulic motors.
Using THIS as a reason for your choice isn’t wise. They appear to be handling this fine. Kubota BX …to my knowledge, STILL hasn’t fixed their leaking single point connector issue.
@@TractorTimewithTim although there's absolutely nothing wrong with my 77 cub cadet, everything still works just fine! And it's paid for and easy to work on if you need to work on it!
@@TractorTimewithTim this is one of many excuses for me not to buy JD,my uncle farms for a living and his last few JD purchases have left him aggravated to say the least, he's had nothing but problem after problem with two tractors not sure which series and his combine S680, throwing codes and sensors constantly going out!
We want to inform you about a recent stop use alert issued by John Deere for the 1023E, 1025R, and 2025R models built between November 17, 2017, and September 30, 2022. John Deere will be reaching out directly to customers with affected machines to provide further instructions and support.
At 21st Century, your safety and satisfaction are our top priorities. We’re pleased to report that less than 1% of our current in-stock inventory is affected by this issue. Rest assured, any affected machines will undergo the necessary Performance Improvement upgrade and thorough testing before delivery to ensure they meet the highest standards of performance and safety.
If you have any concerns or would like to verify whether your machine is affected, please contact your local John Deere dealership for assistance.
Thank you for your understanding and continued trust in 21st Century and John Deere.
Thanks for the prompt feedback. As always, we are impressed with 21st Century Equipment, and your commitment to your customers. Thanks for taking the time to respond! You guys are setting the standard for Deere dealerships!
Why did I not get a notice about this as I own a 1025r that is in the years that have the problem.
@@Powerhousered1223no one has yet. The recall is just now getting started.
Tim, thanks for using your channel to announce this as well. The more the word gets out, the safer us owners can be.You've gotten more eyes to this issue in an hour, than I did in a day 😂. And thank you for mentioning me.
Thanks for bringing this up. Would not have found it without you!
Outstanding job! I've been less than impressed with Deere lately. Between the DEI mess, and the move to Mexico plan, I've bought my last John Deere. Thanks for all you do with this channel--to say it's "handy" would be an understatement. #GodBlessAmerica
@@Look_What_You_Did I have two.. they will also be my last due to the moves John Deere is making now.
Let us all know when you find the tractor company that doesn't have DEI and has full production of their tractor in the USA!
@@StephenPaul1160 I am more concerned about American jobs and manufacturing than about someone's woke status. I don't like DEI crap either but that is not as important and USA made and the jobs it brings.
Makes sense. Mine split in two early this year. Wasn’t too bad to change myself. Did a couple of jobs without brakes while a new one shipped to me. Stayed on near level ground and used the bucket as my e-brake.
Thanks, Tim. My 1025r falls in this category, so thanks for the heads up. I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow. Be safe
Return it. It’s made in Mehico, and by DEIs
Mom always said “if you don’t have nothing nice to say don’t say anything at all” as of late I have nothing good to say about this manufacturer.
I wouldn’t believe everything you are seeing in social media and on the news. Too many people are reading the headlines and jumping to conclusions without understanding what is really happening.
@@Look_What_You_Did You must not have heard.. they are moving all manufacturing to Mexico. It is likely I too will be looking elsewhere since John Deere apparently thinks profits are more important than customers. They had over $10 billion in profits last reported... but decided to cut costs by moving all those jobs out of the USA. If they are not going to support the USA, I see no need to continue supporting John Deere. As my tractors and all my attachments wear out, I will likely now start looking to other companies and see what they have to offer.
@@travismoore3775 I asked them directly. They are moving manufacturing, closing plants and sending it all to Mexico. From the horses mouth....
@Malakie then you talked to the wrong horse. It's only a certain line, and that isnbeing replaced by another line.
@@gregoryjewell5875 Really? Because I contacted John Deere directly as I was getting ready to buy another tractor.. So you are trying to tell me that on top of everything else, that now John Deere Corporate is lying to me as well? Yea, sorry, I will take their own word over someone on the internet. Those two factories are being closed. Operations being moved to Mexico.
Great timely info for the community Tim. The full pond behind you looks great!
Thanks for noticing. Looks much better even than the video we published this morning (filmed 10 days ago). It is totally full now! We'll see how fast it leaks.
This is more than just a "stopping" issue. I always use the Park function when I get off of the tractor. Depending where the interlock is in the system, we may not be able to park or un-park the tractor!
Every time I exit my 2025R, I lock the brakes.
Same.
Hello Tim, I have one of those rare 2012 1026Rs. I checked my stopping lever just now and it appears to be a black steel looking piece. I remember the air cleaner mount problem. Mine was made where my tractor wasn't affected by the recall. Thanks for your videos. They have been most helpful over the years. :)
I am so glad that they are FINALLY taking this problem serious! I have had this same part break 5 TIMES in the past ~5 years. Each time was terrifying especially while on a slope carrying a load. I have repeatedly told the dealership about this problem and they seem to always blow me off.
Devin, see my added post from five minutes ago. I bought one (steel) fabricated by someone and installed it. Easy fix.
Well, I used to work at the factory where these tractors were built. The date codes are the middle alpha characters immediately following the model, the only other letters are the 1LV at that front which is the Augusta GA factory. So the 9th &10th characters, just after 1LV2025R for 2025R variants. There are 2 different years represented by 2 different characters, one is the fiscal year and the other is calendar year. The non matching letters are the 3 months where the years don't coincide between October and December. After the year code is a randomly selected alpha character is used just to keep people from more easily creating false documentation with warranty claims. The dealer will verify that engines and transaxles match the tractor serial number, as well. ROPS is verified as well.
That part number is fairly new as it starts with a LVU3xxxxx. Most of the parts on those tractors are LVU2xxxxx. To me, it looks like a different casting was made. The new part is still a casting just from looking at the CAD model, I didn't work on that production line so I don't know the details on the change, but if I had to guess it got changed from aluminum to steel. Maybe someone can put a magnet on their part if they have a newer tractor or perhaps. If the magnet sticks it's steel and likely it's painted black. Compact utility tractors get black painted parts. Larger utility tractors get green painted parts. If someone can verify a material change was made and/or if it's painted, it could help others identify if they have the suspect part on their tractor. Aluminum parts aren't painted. Sometimes they get anodized, but painting doesn't help with corrosion. Aluminum is like copper, it gets a patina then it stops corroding. Copper gets a green patina and aluminum is grey making it look hazy.
Just for clarification, the 2025R is considered a 2 series tractor. These however are considered Small Chassis Compact Utility tractors. The 2032R and 2038R variants are considered Large Chassis Compact Utility Tractors along with 3E. The other 3 series tractors are considered Premium Compact Utility Tractors. These descriptions are the manufacturing classsification. The model numbers are marketing. The E model is the basic model and the R series is the higher end model in their respective series. There is some overlap in between how they number series are manufactured. The 3E and 2R Large are very similar even sharing the same engines. But they are differently marketed. The 3E is considered marketed for agriculatural use. Whereas the 2R Large is marketed for general commerical use. The marketing is marketing. In most cases you can use 3E and 2R Large to do a lot of the same things. But there are advantages to having the 3E higher ride height. Things like rear PTO attachments are shared a lot between the two. The advantage of the 2R Large are preminum quality build with higher end features like cruise control and the loader that you easily swap out for something like a snow blower.
We've only had a problem with that part breaking on one of our 1025r.
4 different times now , I attributed to operator error , I got tired of spending money on the part at Deere so I've been getting a friend to make the part for us .
And have had no problems since.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Thank you for the information. I use my parking brake on my 1023e all the time. Mine's a 2021. When I get off the tractor to do something quick like pull the pins to remove the bucket, I put it in neutral and set the parking brake. I can't pull the pins if the bucket is on the ground.
Thanks Tim for the update. I assume the "new part" will be steel in lieu of aluminum. I'm not a "Deere guy" but hats off to them for trying to correct this issue. They are a quality manufacturer. Keep up the great videos. I watch all the time.
Way to go Tim, I thank you for the update
5 years ago, after using an 8n for 4 years, I was looking to buy my first NEW tractor. Went to all the dealers. Did all tje research. When the Deere dealer wouldn't even talk to me I left and bought a Kubota. It is now well used and fully paid for.
I will never regret that decision.
Same here.
Hey Tim: Thank you for the heads up. I only use my brake on my 2019 1023e for parking. It is also garaged between uses so I don't think corrosion would be an issue for my tractor. My tractor is down right now because the self centering bearing on the auto-connect driveshaft has failed. The parts just came in so I'm on my way to pick them up today. I will check the condition of that bracket when I do the repair. Thanks again, great job as always.
I know this post is two months old but I believe the 10th digit is the year code on autos and if it is a 17 digit vin that is usually the digit that refers to the year. Good Luck Tim and keep up the great work.
Great info! I'll have to inspect my Sept2020 model asap. Just put 3hrs seat time on other day moving 2 huge piles of road base for a steep slope.
I've got a John Deere 320E skid steer, about a 2015 model. It has been a great machine, it is sad to see a company go down the toilet.
Remember when tractors were made of cast iron and American steel.
Trump tried to bring all that back and look what they tried to do to him.
Now they need to fix the snap ring situation on the rockshaft because the “updated” version with the thicker snap ring still keeps coming apart from just raising and lowering the deck. My tractor did this at 115 hours. If you are not aware of the snap ring coming off the rockshaft arm # LVU 22058 can walk off and get bent. It is now part of my walk around inspection before using the tractor.Side note: check the motor mount bolts also. Mine literally fell out at 25 hours!
Been there the deck fell off while I was mowing
Yep mine has been fixed twice by Deere. I’m so over all the bullhsit of this tractor.
Timely information and relevant advice. Nice catch. Blessings
Thanks for the info. I use my brake regularly when I drive up/down trailer ramps as well as when I drive over my mower deck. I will see what JD comes out with for the fix.
Florida, no slopes. I have only used it a few times hooking up an implement. Retired farmer, my 1023E is just a small toy compared to the tractors I drove for over 27 years. Hydro static drive, if I need to stop I can just push the opposite pedal.
Thanks Tim you always provide such up to date thorough content. I have a model year 2023 2025R. I called JD dealer and they confirmed my tractor build date was 6/13/23. I looked at the brake linkage and I can clearly see it's made out a cast aluminum, Its still really shiny at 50 hrs. According to the recall my tractor is past the recall date. The dealer recorded all my concerns and will contact me when they know more about this recall. I plan to get a picture of the linkage and provide it to dealer. I have a very hilly property and rely heavily on my brake every time I use the tractor, especially when parked. I would also think JD will come out with a new part number that supersedes the old. Thank you!
I received one as well, when I cal the dealorship they told me they were still waiting to see how John Deere was going to handle it.
I had seen this on Facebook but I was waiting for you to cover this. thank you. they need to be quick with this b/c winter is around the corner and we can't get out of the driveway at times without plowing.
Thanks for the info. I purchased my 1025R in August of 2017. I am going to have to call the dealer to see if my tractor is affected. I looked at the bell crank and it is aluminum but does not look like the one you illustrate in the pics. I am just ok with my experience level. Flat lander also. I don't use my brake to stop, but I use it all the time when I am lifting with the front end loader or forks. Don't know if that's good or bad but makes me feel more secure when doing it.
I just use the reverse pedal to control my down hill decents and the forward pedal to hold position if on an uphill climb. I have done this since I got my 445 back in 1994 and it was easy to continue the habit on the 1026R. I only use the brakes for parking. When I lost the brakes on the 445 I finished out the winter before fixing the brakes by just dropping the Snow Blower to the ground to hold the machine in place and I would do the same with the FEL or three point attachment if I ever lost the brakes on the 1026R after all, if I am only needing the brakes to park, the FEL or three point attachment setting on the ground will hold in all but the most extreme locations.
Tim, thanks for letting us know about the recall. I wish John Deere was more forthcoming about this issue.
@@Look_What_You_Did Another comment drew attention to how it doesn't run up to the newest machines, and took that to suggest they discovered the issue in 2022. With the first knowledge of it being shared with the public being in August 2024, you can make your own assumptions of how they could have been more forthcoming.
However, what the original commenter probably meant, they're finding out through a channel, that was sent a link from another party of a video uploaded on another channel, a video that will have taken time to record and upload, and one that isn't John Deere. Why wasn't the video/source of information linked from John Deere themselves, or Tim's closer links with a dealer the avenue the information came through? If John Deere made the effort to share the information with their customers as soon as possible, surely the first sources of information that people would be sharing around would be something more directly tied to John Deere rather than what seems like a lot of third parties possibly discovering this stuff for themselves.
Tim, thanks for the advanced notice. In the meantime, I did inspect the part on my 2021 1025R, and found no incipient cracks. At least we can keep an eye on it until the replacement is available.
Thank you for the update, Tim.
Love the 4 leaf clover. My grandfather, Pawpaw to me, could find them while walking. He had an amazing ability for finding 4 leaf clovers.
My wife and I teach in Liberia, so I was out of the country, when this all broke. But, I received my letter from JD for my 2020 1025r upon our return. My "local" dealer, which is about 60 miles away, got all of the affected owners in my area together, came up and fixed us all on the same day. Shout out to Belkorp Ag in Modesto, CA; excellent service and no charge. I did have to wait for a week or so while they coordinated the visits, but everything was smooth and easy.
Thanks Tim! Like many others this is the first I heard of this. The one on my 1023E is still intact although, like you, I rarely use the brake. I'll be aware of the problem but not going to use it as an excuse to not mow. :)
I appreciate this Tim. I’m on a fairly steep back yard and will def be looking at this!
“The newest one doesn’t show the issue” is they likely learned about it previously, and didn’t notify the public. Probably were crossing their fingers that it wouldn’t become a generally known issue to the public
Great info Tim, you are the best with communicating !
In my opinion, the flipping roll bar is the most dangerous item on these tractors. I do a lot of wooded lot mowing. Which puts me in around lower branches of trees.
When In first bought my 1023e, the rol bar almost got me hurt bad.
I took it off.
Still got the 2014 model, but this is nice to know if I get a newer one in the future. I did upgrade the air cleaner on mine so that mounts around the radiator.Thanks for the heads up Tim.
This is the first I have heard of this. Thank you. I no longer live in Tipton so Reynolds on 31 probably do not have a good address for me.
Edited 8/1/2024: Reynolds had my current address and transferred my tractor to Green Mark in Lagrange, IN. Service there contacted Deere and confirmed the recall is real. They will be confirming if mine is in the recall by serial number. Deere cautioned the dealer to tell me it should not be used (I think I hear lawyers).
Thanks Tim I got one and live in the rolling hills of Ohio near pa and wv I’ll be sure to inspect that I found couple years ago it doesn’t hold well on a hill thought either brake is worn or needed adjustment I never bothered and like you I learn to dump the loader in emergency or as a brake
Unfortunately, I understand the frustration with JD. Have you had any rear end leaks on Johnny? My 1025r will be in for the fourth time for rear end leaking hydraulic fluid. Every gasket has failed, pumps replaced. Only 260 hours on my 2021 and nothing but problems
thank you for bringing this to our attention!
Mine is one (2019) and on a jobsite currently. Wonder if I should go by the dealer and discuss this.
Thanks for the heads up! Much appreciated! As far as using the brake, I am a flatlander myself. But, I must set the brake or throw a brick on the seat on my 3E if i want to use the PTO for the hay elevator, buzz saw or transfer pump. Is it safe to assume the 1&2 series operate the same way?
Thanks for the heads up. Went out and checked my 2021 1025R. Looks OK, but is cast aluminum
I had the issue with the air cleaner bracket breaking. I was told by the dealer that there wasn't a recall, just fix if the owner complained.
correct.
Bell crank on my 2018 1025r just broke last week at 170 hrs. Replacement at my local JD dealer was $103 and appears to be identical to original.
Tim I’ve already seen this on google and my only thought is this if this has been an issue how can this be an issue seeing these have been in use for 5 years now why not just put it as free replacement item and just schedule an appointment with your dealer
I decided not to wait on JD parts to be made, and I bought a bell crank for my 2025R off Ebay ($53). This one was fabricated with steel and welded(much stronger). It took me less than 45 minutes to install, and would probably take someone who has done it before about 25 minutes. I suggest you put the tractor on level ground and block the wheels for safety. Use a 13mm wrench (a 1/2 inch will also work, but remember the two bolts are metric, M8 - 1.25) and it is helpful to have a long screwdriver for leveraging off the rod that goes back to the rear axle/brake. When finished, I replaced the cotter pin with a new one. Remember that the rod (which goes to the back of the tractor) is on springs and can be pulled forward by hand, to help you line up the brake rod hole in the crank. Both original bolts through the bell crank do NOT have nuts. You will see that the original bolts (when backing them out) will literally eventually hit part of the frame, but if you tip the head of the bolt back and wriggle, you have just enough room to get the bolts completely out. I used a ratcheting 1/2" box wrench, but then had to switch to a crescent wrench, otherwise the ratcheting wrench will get stuck [because the bolts are flanged] when the bolt is nearly out. Note that only the axle (?) itself is threaded. I discovered that the original bell crank is caste [aluminum ???] and cheaply made. The caste crank is only threaded about 25%. There is no need to jack the tractor up because there is plenty of room [unless you have a big stomach] to crawl on your back under the right side of the tractor. The bell crank is on the RIGHT side of the tractor, directly beneath where the heal of your shoe is, when your right foot is on the (foreward/reverse) pedals. It's a simple fix because the part is 100% metal and there is no electronics or plastics, etc., involved. Local people are fabricating them from steel in their shops [welding]. JD plans on sending techs to your home and doing the needed replacements there, so you don't have to go to a dealership. But the fix is pretty easy, if you want to do it yourself. Again, I got the part for about $53 from someone probably fabricating them in their garage or metal working job. Honestly, a 12 year old boy could probably figure out how to do the removal/installation, but remember, the rod that goes between the crank and the rear brakes is with springs so it can be easily moved back and forth to line it up with the crank hole (top) again. [Don't have the parking brake on when doing the replacement.]
I sent an email through the Deere website for my local dealer. This is where I purchased the 2018 1025R, and have had every service done, attempting to schedule to get it in for the recall.
That was a month ago with NO RESPONSE!
got mine about 10 days ago for my 2025r my neighbor across the street got his a couple days ago. he talked to the dealer and apparently you can do it yourself once the parts are available or wait for dealer availability to do it. idk how true any of that is
I have enjoyed your videos and found them quite informative. Thanks for all the good information. I do find interesting that the paperwork shows my 1025R came off the line Dec 2023. but the the part looks very similar. May be a bit beefier, just hard to tell without the 2 different pieces.
Just broke mine two weeks ago and paid $130 with expedited shipping for the part and replaced it. It was the identical aluminum part. Didn’t really use the brake but thought it may have been from hitting on mower deck taking on and off if it wasn’t lined up.
TY for the update, wish I had known about the filter brkt issue. I had to have a new engine installed. Luckily the covered it all but was down for awhile.
Not much more than a month ago, the bell crank on my 1025R broke. Fortunately, I noticed this on level ground. My property is fairly hilly, and I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve been positioned in a way that if that bell crank had broke on one of those hills, I could’ve been crushed. As an extra precaution, I’ll chock the wheels from now on.
I paid $279 to have mine fixed. I wonder if I’ll be getting a refund?
Tim just curious if you have any updates on the 1025R recall. My letter said for my year the parts should be available in December. When I contacted my dealer they said the parts are on back order and will be at least 3 months out
I have received 4 letter now …all of them identical.
No idea what is going on. …but par for the course right now. Deere can’t get out of its own way in 2024!
Anyone have any success fixing Err code 01?? Replaced sensors and no forward or reverse 😢
I like the photo of the guy who made his own Bell crank bracket, nice work.
Thank you tim. I'll be calling my dealer tomorrow. If I can't drive mine. I will be having some very tall grass.
Interesting. My 1025r was built in the first half of 2017 (it has the straight up ROPS rather rhan the angled ROPS made later that year) & is not included in the PIP. The brake arm is aluminum & is not cracked (as i expected since the brakes work fine). I wonder what changed about this part mid-2017.
Thanks for the information and the warning. I bought my 2025R in 2016 and will inspect what I have. Would this be an additional reason for JD to leave the U.S. and set up in Mexico? Sounds like all bellcranks need to be changed to steel.
My Kubota Bx's brake hasn't worked since i bought it. Never used it. But im also a flat lander and have found nonneed for it.
I received a recall letter from John Deere. I called my local John Deere dealer where I purchased my 1023e and they set up an appointment to have the part replaced. They came to my house and picked up the tractor, replaced the part and returned the tractor a few days later. As long as they had the tractor there, I had them change the engine oil and filter and grease job. No complaints here.
No issues with my MF1725mb only at shop for normal service.
Thank you Tim. I don't own a tractor but it's good information to know.
That's my tractor for sure. Not broken yet. Thanks for the information.
I wonder if they will cover shipping to and from the dealer.
Thanks for the heads up on this. I have a 22 2025r Mauser. Guess it's Johnny Popper time
Glad I still have my 2015 1025R.
Thanks for the info Tim it's really appreciated👍🏻
Good update on this issue.
Yeah Tim. My 2014 1025R had a steel sleeve bell crank with two bolts through the sleeve and rod. Has a welded throw arm.
Thank you Tim. I have to check my year
Thanks for the information Tim. My Johnny inspired 1025R TLB JUST HIT 1000 hours.
Excellent! Thanks for the comment!
That's interesting. My 1025R's bell crank broke several months ago. I was on level ground and moving slowly when the brake pedal went forward and slack. When I ordered a replacement, my dealer (40 mins away) got me the wrong one the first time and it took me a second round trip and several hours of struggling to get the broken piece off and new part back on. The new one I got is still the cast aluminum variety. Also agree that the machine is not safe to use when the brake pedal is not working unless you're on perfectly flat ground. I don't have much of that here on the property and so chose not to operate except to take the garbage bins out to the road.
Great info! Will check mine for sure!
I have a model year '23, a P in the serial number. And mine looks exactly like those. I'm curious why mine is unaffected?
It is odd. I dunno. Maybe different source for the part?
@@TractorTimewithTim Yes, I will certainly be following. Thank you for the update!
Hi Tim, how about the older ten twenty-six R?
Not impacted.
Thank you for the information!! Also, the pond and corn looks great.
lol i have looked for a (4) leaf clover for years! (Grew up next to an alfalfa field) I have never actually seen one. Thank you!
Hi Tim and thanx for the great heads up. I have a 2018 1025R with 700+ hrs on it. The brake is working fine on today's job site, but I will be fabbing up a steel bell crank to replace this cheesy aluminum joke of a part. Why would deere make a part that is clearly made to fail?! The design is fine...being a cast part is fine...but being a cast "aluminum" brake part with very little material in a very critical area of the part, is a huge FAIL!!!! Again, Thank you Tim and God bless you even more than today!
For those with drive over mid-mount mowers the loss of brakes could add risk and difficulty with connecting/disconnecting, especially if he FEL isn't removed first.
Tim , thanks for video I believe my 1024R is 2016 . But I’ll check with the dealer.
No need to check if before the stated production date.
I got my Deere letter yesterday. It says in part, "A PIP program has been developed, and you will be notified when it has been released to your authorized dealer. At that time your tractor will be repaired at no cost to you." And then below that it shows a list of date Releases that apply to each different model year. My release date is Nov. 22, 2024. So, I'll call my local dealer and see if I should bring in my tractor on that date. So there should be no worry as to who will foot the bill for this PIP.
How do recalls work in the tractor world? I'm from the auto/big truck industry, you can drive your unit in to get fix 100% parts labor. Sometimes towing too. Do they pay for towing your tractor to the dealer? I know they are not going to pay for a service call to your property. It seems doubtful they would just give you the parts to fix yourself on a safety issue. Curious anyone, past experience?
I'm not sure there has been a significant tractor recall (in the compact tractor world) since I've been involved in the industry. I do not think it is regulated as tightly as the auto industry.
Very helpful. I think we will wait to see then what transpires on Bombin, we would have to get it down here later anyway.
When younger I drove a Farmall 400 without brakes for years, no hydrostatic and no bucket, always needed to think ahead , especially when towing a hay wagon. Most difficulty occurred when attempting to latch onto an implement.
My old 8N had no brakes. I never had an issue. Except, as you said, hooking up implements.
@@gregoryjewell5875People that have not been farmers in the past have no idea how we had to improvise to get the task at hand done. Still today I use the bucket tilt on the tractor to move that 1 inch back or forth to connect an implement if I am putting it on my self without a driver in the seat.
Nice PSA. I am not affected by it, but the notifications via the chain that "is trying to determine an as yet undetermined solution" could be slower than molasses from the refrigerator.
I have a 2015 1025r and it has an aluminum part also.
thanks for the heads up and great advice
Wow. I just dodged that bullet. My 1023E was delivered in September 2017. Not sure what build date was but i bought it new then from a dealer. Anyways, i've been very happy with it for the 8 years i've had it.
BTW, the ROPS situation, I literally am the person that bought one of the first 1025r's and contacted John Deere about an extremely dangerous problem. I had the thing only a couple days and I was not yet used to the ROPS or the tractor. I was mowing and hit a branch that was lower than I realized and the tractor went vertical and lifted off the ground literally before slamming back down still vertical... and the ROPS did not release like it is supposed to do. It is design to hold solid in a roll over but is supposed to release if sent backward, i.e. it catches on something like a tree branch, after so much torque or pressure is applied in that direction. Mine did not budge. I called John Deere directly because the dealer had never heard of such a thing happening and so John Deere actually sent an engineer from one of their main plants to look at my unit and found that the pins/parts used were the wrong metal density or something along that line. A couple weeks later they came back and put all new attachments on the ROPS and we did some tests right there in the field. My dealer called me a couple days later and said they had just gotten the recall notice for replacing ROPS parts to resolve this issue (which of course they knew I no longer needed) so that was pretty nice to know they, John Deere corporate and the dealer took it seriously when a customer out of the blue called them.
From what I understand, John Deere re-engineered the ROPS design for later models of the 1 and 2 series because of that.
Interesting. I didn’t even know the Rops was supposed to release when it hits something!
@@TractorTimewithTim They told me on rollover of course not. But when you hit something like that, under certain load it is supposed to release backward, the same as if you folded it backward, some part is supposed to give before the tractor is flipped over backward. I nearly went over backward and had my reflexes not reacted, that would have happened... as it was I ended up off the ground then vertical with the tractor sitting pointing straight up thankfully as it slid off that tree branch I hit. Took another tractor to help bring the thing back down on its wheels. They told me it was a part which failed to break or release or something.. hard to remember now.. thus the recall shortly after they were put out that year. I want to say it was 2017 or 2018 if I remember right. I bought that before we bought this new property and upgraded to the 2032 about 4.5 years ago.
Funny I was just reading about this a few weeks ago and seen the pics and people complaining about it. Another issue, that oil cap on the side, the radiator hose can rub it and put a hole in it! I read about it and mine has the issue too and about had a hole in the hose. I got an extra hose just in case and zip tied a piece of hose over the rubbed area on the old hose and shaved off some plastic on the oil cap.
Glad I bought the BX!
Mine broke the other week. I was already stopped. I just put down my box blade to hold the tractor in place and went to the dealer to get a new brake bell crank. It was very easy to install. I'm eager to see how they change the design/materials, because the one they gave me looks just like the one that failed and is made of the same grade of metal.
I'm used to having parts break on machines. I fix machines all the time. I didn't have any clue that this was a bigger problem than just my machine. And the dealership didn't have anybody else come in to get a replacement or have them fail on other tractors (talked to a master technician for 1,2, and 3 series machines).
Back when I worked for John Deere one of their Z turn mowers had a recall. The frames were breaking. John Deere sent us new frames and I had to take off all the parts off the old frame and put them on the new frame. Also had a recall on plastic hydraulic tanks on Zero turn mowers. The plastic tanks would melt and ruin the hydraulic drive. John Deere fix was to mount a fan on the plastic tank and replace hydraulic motors.
Glad to see this, I've been looking at these very compacts and I think I'll go with Kubota!
Using THIS as a reason for your choice isn’t wise. They appear to be handling this fine. Kubota BX …to my knowledge, STILL hasn’t fixed their leaking single point connector issue.
@@TractorTimewithTim although there's absolutely nothing wrong with my 77 cub cadet, everything still works just fine! And it's paid for and easy to work on if you need to work on it!
@@TractorTimewithTim this is one of many excuses for me not to buy JD,my uncle farms for a living and his last few JD purchases have left him aggravated to say the least, he's had nothing but problem after problem with two tractors not sure which series and his combine S680, throwing codes and sensors constantly going out!
@@GarryWills-cn8nn interesting.
I've received 2 letters on this. Parts were supposed to be here in October. It's almost November and still no parts to repair this issue.
I've got 3 letters...all identical...and have 2 tractors. Nothing else.