Hermès: The Mother of Quiet Luxury
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ม.ค. 2024
- While this is not an unboxing video, today we’re talking all about Hermès and going beyond their iconic Kelly and Birkin bag. As quiet luxury has further developed as a trend, it felt important to talk about the most noteworthy quiet luxury collection of all time. Hermès, designed by fashion designer Martin Margiela for the Fall 1998 season at Paris Fashion Week, departed dramatically from the designer’s work at his own fashion brand Maison Margiela. Today, we’re going to talk about all the ways in which Hermès seeks to create perfection in their work and how their extreme focus on process has pushed Hermès to the very top of the luxury world.
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when discussing quiet luxury, one must remember the wise words of Martin Margiela about his approach at Hermès: 'to me luxury is the perfect balance between quality and comfort, and if i can go further, i would say timelessness'
As a knitter myself i appreciate that he used circular knitting to eliminate the seams at the sides, shoulders and armholes, which is also my preferred method personally. However i wanted to quickly add that you can indeed achieve body shaping without sewn in darts when knitting flat. Also circular knitting machines for socks, sweaters and all kinds of things existed way before and are a fascinating area of engineering. Love your videos!
Thank you for commenting. I have been wondering about how seamless tees and sweatshirts are made
I knit, sew and pattern draft, circular knitting by hand or machine has existed pre Hermes. I truly honestly don't understand the hype for Hermes bag being better quality cause it's handmade, what is the difference between hand saddle stitch and machine lockstitch?! It's the emperor's new clothes!
Bags are not just decorations, they should be a blessing for self-confidence. Many bags will be considered cheap or street goods when worn by ordinary people. But if you are a confident woman, carrying a high imitation bag on your back is a good idea. No one will doubt *condup* .
You are the first person to really understand and articulate "quite luxury" on TH-cam.
That means a lot to me, thank you so much!
"quiet"
quite @@w.urlitzer1869
The idea that this collection is about the experience of being inside your clothes is really vibing with me - I was gifted a sewing machine, and instead of being at all interested in making piles of new things, I have a mental list of all the things I want to fix, so that the experience of wearing them in more pleasurable. Pockets, naturally. But I'm also going to replace a shitty plastic zipper with a metal one which won't make me wonder if I'll be able to zip the coat this time. Not the pinnacle of fashion, exactly, but very much in the spirit of the collection on a lower price range
Can’t wait to hear how that goes! Report back when you’ve made some progress! Happy new year, Sarah! We always love reading your thoughts. Thanks so much for the support!
Working at Hermes makes you realize how much time and craft goes into every single item. You see the emphasis on the craftsmenship and more than anything you see the inspiration behind every single little design and the story it tries to tell. They’ve been around for so long because they understand their consumer and the consumer obsesses over them and I literally do not mean that lightly 🤣 great video BLISS-MAN 👍🏼
the models in Margielas Hermes show looking at the critics DARING them to find it absurd. Im obsessed
I was sort of in a confused, unsure state of my feelings about Hermes going into this video. It clarified a lot for me and brought more nuance to the luxury conversation. The last sentence in your conclusion me realize its fine to be impressed and delighted by the commitment to that perfection. I won't likely ever be their customer, but i can firmly say i am now their admirer.
That’s the position I’m in as well 💫💫
Yaye I watched til the end easily, hey man what is that awesome coat you're wearing at the end. Ty@@BlissFoster
Ahhhh that’s an old Helmut Lang cashmere zip hoodie. I wish I could find another one, it’s one of the best articles of clothing I’ve ever owned (also my first cashmere piece). I got this waaay back in late 2015. I don’t know how one would find it now
@@BlissFoster - Just FYI - I think your overly blatant plugging of Patreon in the middle of your vids is SO over the top - its perfectly acceptable. I don't think it needs relegating to the end.
When you have said something 200 times you start to have doubts about it yourself, you are sick of hearing it so you assume others are too, you question its appropriateness, I know I used to do a weekly presentation and after 3 years I got weirdly more nervous about it than at the start. I was like "OMG this is so cheesy, I cant do this anymore" but the people had never heard it, to them it was new and fresh.
I'd keep it at the 1/3rd mark - just my 2 cents.
This video felt like getting assigned to do a project with one the popular kids in school, and wanting to dislike them for being cool and popular. Then finding out we have things in common and that they are hardworking, deep and interesting. We probably won’t hang out outside class, but I’ll give them a nod in the hallway.
From finding “How To Analyze a Raf Simons show” on this channel 4 years ago to a quarter of a million subscribers. Another outstanding video. Keep being great Bliss✨
Awwww this made my day, thank you :) 💫💫
Bliss, you always make me become more present as a consumer. I truly appreciate the critical thought in the videos and this was especially informative! I’ve learned so much more about Hermes in this 20 minutes that I’m inspired to keep learning the brand! Unfortunately now I’ve put a Kelly on my luxury wish list 😂
@@chroniclesofshylles ugh, me too 🙄 as much as I do not have a spare $12k, I want a navy Kelly 45 in swift/box leather with palladium hardware very badly😭
It's outrageous how some people are incapable of finishing the incredibly educational videos that you produce, it's truly so entertaining to watch someone that's so knowledgeable and passionate about this subject. Props to you Bliss, I love your content so much ❤
I've been an equestrian my entire life, so Hermes had always been a favorite of mine
On a caveat, I would recommend to not hold the mic on the same hand as your Cartier watch. The watch can become magnetized and you would have to take it in. It is a simple solution but you can avoid electronics around your automatic watch.
Anyways, fantastic video on Hermes!
Good to know! Thanks!
@@BlissFoster 😊
Hermes actually does a lot of stuff. For example, do you know they make custom car interiors and stuff? Really cool craftsmanship, one of the only luxury brands I actually like.
Hermès Horizon.
I know nothing at all about clothes, and I always enjoy this channel.
Honestly Brian, that means the earth to me. One of our biggest goals is to make this digestible for new folks, but engaging for experts. I’m so glad you’ve found it useful. Happy new year 💫💫
@@BlissFoster I would send you a photo of myself in cargo pants and a polo shirt, but that illustration of my ignorance would make you faint with joy. I admire a magnificent obsession, Mr. Foster; I admire yours.
You nailed the Hermes ethos! So few people truly understand what makes this house so special. As a long time customer I found it so enjoyable to watch as you walk us through the years of iteration. Well done!
Thanks so much! If you don’t mind my asking, what products by them do you usually invest in?
@@BlissFoster I’ve purchased from all of their metiers (except furniture though I do have my eye on a couple pieces there too). it can be difficult to understand the quality of craftsmanship from a website pic or a TH-cam but the selection of materials, and application of them is really incredible. Shopping is definitely a tactile experience for me there and I’ve never been disappointed. I find their RTW to be very wearable and so very comfortable in comparison to Chanel or LV as an example. Their jewelry pieces rival Cartier quality and am a huge fan of their rose gold. I also love the double tour cape cod watch like you. Chose mine with diamonds and the juxtaposition of the casual double wrap with diamonds is so cool. Also think their RTW is mostly neutral for the same reason - it helps to balance the playful colors in other parts of the house. So many things to love about this brand. The understated luxury, yes. But the drive toward perfection really does come through in all their products. And the after care they provide no matter how old the product backs up that philosophy.
Thanks so much for sharing with everyone 💫💫
I’m committed to the delusion of perfection and it really calms me down
I actually saw an exhibition on Margielas years at Hermès, years ago in Stockholm. I was oohhing and aahhing the whole way through. My very fashion uninterested friend was not so impressed. They sold a lot of Hermès related books and I regret not buying the Margiela years. Gonna have to pick it up soon. Loved watching this. As always , excellent work!
I also went to the exhibition, it was great to see Hermès pieces next to his own brand.
Now that you explained the margiela designs, I understand so much better. Eye opener. Thank you
I don't know how you and Daniela managa to pour out such a constant stream of high quality content, it is just wonderful!
That’s very kind of you. We couldn’t do what we do without scholars and academics like Kaat Debo. The people who are willing to take the time to catelogue and archive the information are the real heroes 🦾
Also, it’s Daniella with 2 Ls :)
@@BlissFoster Sorry for writing it wrong! My native language is actually Spanish and we usually write it with just one l, I will keep it in mind for the future :)
Btw: I have noticed that your scripts seem to have an extremely consistent tone/flow, like I don't mean Bill's delivery necessarily (because sometimes it's very obvious when he goes "out of character" i.e. is himself) but more like author's voice, I think? Like structural stuff of the writing and the way it approaches exposition and stuff... Is that Daniella's doing? Because it is super impressive from a writing perspective and it really scratches an itch in my brain. I have a great interest in understanding that sort of thing, specially when the creators are a team because I don't really know how much is the voice/thought process of one or the other... anyways enough writing talk. Thanks for the reply!
@@sofia_c_1 hey! :) Each episode is different. For example, on this episode, I started the notes for the ep about 2 years ago, Daniella turned it into a script, we shot the episode together, and I edited it. On other episodes, it’s the exact opposite. We both do almost everything in the business, so we can change tasks pretty seamlessly 💫💫
@@BlissFoster
It is really cool you guys have developed a common "voice" then! It is one of the things that keeps me coming back to the channel... and 2 years is an extremely long period to dedicate to a video idea even if it were just in the background. Mad respect to the both of you!
I knit and design and knitwear for myself and Im obsessed with perfect material and perfect fit...and now also this video. Thank you for offering up this perfect gateway to Hermes. Its helped me understand where in fashion to look for inspiration.
leather handles are wrapped around a dense cotton cord, and squishy cotton cords if they're poor quality. Also, im going to knit one of those cardigans now-that function is the best. Having made my leather kelly, it really is the hardware that makes anything unmakable. That, and the crochet trend, because crochet can ONLY be done by human hands. machines can't and automation can't account for all the variables let alone support/flip the garment while stitching it at the same time.
Loved this. I remember in the Hermés years, Martin had a cashmere stole that had patch pockets at the ends. Pretty wide, as a I remember, but so elegant and utilitarian. Anyway, great job, Bliss.
Every time I've watched one of your videos recently, it has ended with me buying a new book.
Hell yea, I love to hear that 🦾
9:01 that is very similar to the screening interviews/invitation only system for Goros jewelry. The pieces are meant to stay with you for life, or as long as the product can last for, not to be flipped/resold.
I could understand the frustration some aspiring customers could feel from this, but standing behind the ethos of the company, it makes sense why they screen potential clients.
This was my first video I’ve seen of your content, it’s great & your storytelling style is engaging. I agree books are key to learning about anything. Happy new year to you and your team.
Welcome in! If I could recommend your next video, the reeeally good ones are the ones where we can spend a lot of time on a single runway show. If you have time, check out
Prada: Fascism and Fashion
Issey Miyake isn’t Dead: He’s Immortal
and
Rick Owens and Immortality: Spring 2023
Again, welcome in! I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments as you check out more videos 💫💫
I loved this! I would really like to have the dress with zippers that converts into a tunic and I suppose I'm surprised I haven't seen this copied anywhere, because my Hermes budget is at the...scarf level. Super entertaining, as usual. Thank you!
This was captivating from beginning to end - how anyone could not watch the entire thing is a mystery to me!
the clothes got their opening credits lol
very well made
There's a great season of Articles of Interest that discusses the cultural origins of Ivy/preppy style and how it has influenced fashion in the intervening decades. 100% worth a listen if you're interested in the, hmm, sociology around quiet luxury and the concept of "elevated basics".
You are a rare gem of a creator & I have never once not agreed with an angle or an opinion of yours
Incredible work & passion y'all put into these videos & thank you for exposing me to other incredible artists beyond Demna (my fav lol)
Didn't think I'd watch all of it either just by looking at the title, but i love Margiela.
My girlfriend's name is Daniela too!
This is, hands down, one of my all time favourite videos on TouTube
Been a customer for sometime, I don’t mind their product, especially leather goods.
Ready to wear sector is not quite my cup of tea.
Household items I prefer specialised manufactures.
Furnitures however are done well.
Hermes will always be one of my options because they’d repair anything they make and that’s we like it.
Very critical breakdown I loved it I don't know if I'm more impressed by Hermes or Martin rather he's really a Uhhhm an indescribable word for great
One of my most comfortable pair of sneakers I've ever owned are Hermes. It's like putting your foot inside a cloud. More than a decade later I still love them.
Beautiful words as usual brother ❤
Always fascinated by how you think about the experience of a person wearing the clothes. The belt in this video is a perfect example for that, I would look at that and take is for a design clue that relates back to their bags, but to take the time and think about how that could effect the aging of a belt is the next step of analyzing it that makes your fashion journalism so intriguing. You usually don’t get that speaking to your friend who’s passionate about this era / season.
I recently worked the holiday season at Hermès and honestly the products they offer are definitely high quality, but it’s more about selling the LIFESTYLE. Maison items are coveted buys for the people that can afford it. It’s extremely whimsical buys and they are pretty gangster in how they dole out the bags that make these items even more coveted.
The fact people don't watch to the end is insane - personally I grab a bag of snacks and strap in for the full half hour. You speak with so much enthusiasm and pace yourself so well, so the time just flies by :D This was such an educational watch, quality content as always. Thank you Bliss!
Best video you could have put out. Thanks
Can we make Bliss doing accents a more regular thing. I loved it. This video also made my day. I had no clue how diverse Hermes was and I just recently started getting into them as well. Can’t wait to learn more.
this just made me love hermes
I appreciate the level of passion and detail you put into these little windows for me to look through into a world that I know so little about. Thanks Bliss
My pleasure! I’m so glad it’s been useful for you 💫💫
The way you see the little things with clothes is how I see the little things with clothes. It's nice to listen to someone else talk like my brain thinks.
We love Bliss Foster over here!
The way you talk about fashion is second to none. Thank you Bliss!
That was very informative, not many people on the internet are doing what you do!
The house you’re in looks historically significant! 💟 I see those details.
It was originally built in 1870! For Americans, that’s super old!
Bliss we need you in fashion history ❤
This video, once again, is beyond amazing. I follow your work from a long time and take my notes like as student devoted to fashion knowledge. I use to work for Maison Margiela store in London. I remember we use to speak regarding the collections. Unfortunately I need to leave by I feel orphan without Maison Margiela. I remember to study your videos of Martin Margiela to prepare for my interviews in 2021. Your bibliography is insanely good and elevated!!!
I wish you all the best 🎉 congratulations on your wedding ❣️
the part about the shoes changing the walk of the person is so simple yet mind blowing, really tought about the tabis and my active choice of wearing pretty/huge shoes that are a little uncomfortabe to be perceived in another way. A shoe can change a whole outfit and i will probably remember this little note when im dressing for something, tysm .
You do your homework, and you provide interesting historical and anecdotal information that gives us so much more than a "critique" of the designs and designers. Thank you for the deep dive!
Wow, thank you! 🙏 💫💫
Fashion is a fun Hobby for me and I love y’all’s content…. I learn so much
It would be nice if you made a follow-up regarding Hermes post-Margiela. Their clothing collections, especially menswear, are very… uninspired.
To be fair, Hermès has had the same "Creative Director of Menswear" since 1988, Veronique Nichanian.
Great Video! Love learning the history of both Margiela and Hermes.
once I’m able to afford to be on patreon i will be there. always watching your videos til the end regardless, happy 2024 - thank you for your content
Happy new year 🎊 thanks so much for the support 💫💫
Thank you + Daniella, both, for this. This was my first time hearing about double facing. I am: ✫ intrigued. ✫
Personally not into fashion myself but quiet luxury always piqued my interest on how it's portrayed (it's why I clicked the video). Your video really gave me an in-depth understanding on the practical, creative, and historical side of the Hermes brand and dare I say I get it now? I use to think all those baggy jacket were attempts of being out there but learning that the designer made it with the women wearing their brand in mind, gives me better understanding.
Wow this made my day, thanks so much for saying so. If you’re at all interested in exploring more, we have a number of videos where we “read” and interpret a runway show, similar to how someone would for a book.
Some suggestions:
-Prada: Fascism and Fashion
-Issey Miyake isn’t Dead: He’s Immortal
and
-Rick Owens and Immortality: Spring 2023
Let me know what you think if you end up watching 💫💫
thanks bliss, long time fan and your directness and attention to the philosophy and workmanship is such a breath of fresh air. I have met some fashion people around Cleveland where I live who have started little fashion brands and release seasonal offerings and I'll try to pick up ones that feel like me. Its changed how people view me and the idea of hinting at your personality or the iceberg of yourself in a quiet way is a big lesson. I used to dress very flashy and still enjoy it, but it gives a lot of Aries aggressive energy sometimes. The long form TH-cam article form really helps me catch the vocab and energy without getting frustrated at the technical aspects. Thanks again, for all you do.
That’s awesome that you’re supporting local designers. I’m so glad our work has been useful for you, that’s always the goal 💫💫
Hey remember that scene in toy story 2 where theat old guy refurbished woody with tender old man hands that's Hermes I guess
Love all your videos. ❤
That rolled leather belt is so beautiful! I’ve been googling looking for one and all I can find are pet collars. haha
Thanks for another great video, I really enjoyed it! You guys really help me understand and appreciate all the design and thinking that goes into luxury clothing.
I know!! I want to try one now! I wish I could find one as well 😔
Amazing content. Astute observations and commentary. The knitting insights were especially amazing as I’m in the middle of learning how to shape with German short rows. So cool. Thanks. Great channel! ❤
Brilliant as usual!
I had a Margiela Hermes piece. So priceless.
This is repetitive but....Thank you for this. Enjoyed it completely.
Always watch to the end BTW. Your content is so thoughtful, captivating, intelligent and funny….yet hits the target every time with wit and witticism. Nicely done! 👏🏻❤
Thanks for the this video ❤
Now, even more in awe of Hermes and Martin - both genius. Thanks for this video. I love the idea of earned transformation in contrast to overnight success.
Great video! Thank you so much 👏
Thaks again for so much efford in creating great content again and again!!!!!!!!❤❤❤❤
Been watching your vids since the beginning and this was one of my recent favorites! So good, I was hooked the whole way through
Thanks for the ongoing support, homie! Means a lot to us 💫💫
this was brilliant. 👏🏾👏🏾
Like a glove. Love it!
Stoked to go into the new year watching these vids! I found you while traveling in Europe and have immensely enjoyed the deep dives and clear, concise scripts. I love drawing and painting but am a total noob to the fashion world and your passion is contagious. Thanks!
Welcome in and happy new year 🦾
THANK YOU FOR THIS IT WAS SO INFORMATIVE AND EASY TO WATCH
I love your outfit!
Thanks for another great video, Bliss and Daniella!
What I like about Hermès is that they keep their own house and tradition and not sell themselves to bigger corporations like lvmh or kering.
Martin Margiela was definitely a good match for Hermès. And traces of this first collection can be seen in the mmm fw 2011, I mean the looks with the high gloves and the knit.
Brilliant 💥.........as always. See you in Paris.💋
Thank you for great content, and a massive effort. Truly enjoyable !👏👏👏
Great video, thanks. Your living room is beautiful!
Fantastic video! I'm surprised you haven't covered this more with your love of martin margiela. Cheers!
I just started watching and I'm sooo glad you talked about Margiela at Hermes. The clothes before him were fantastically made but loud and relatively showy especially in the 80s. Fit in with that time, yes. But his designs for them blew my mind then and now. True luxury. Luxury to me means "forever". And that includes non "quiet" avant garde designs. And what he did at Hermes was avant garde at the time and perfect luxury now. I dig your vids deeply.
First! 💫💫
Your analysis at the end (and I mean when u start wrapping it up with the thoughts on house codes and saddle making, not just the last sentence) is just so rich and fascinating. Never stop! Happy new year bliss and daniella ✨
Bliss. This is amazing
The romance and knowledge you shared in this episode OSS spellbinding 😍
Great video, we love your channel
Beautiful video! I never knew much about Hermes, but I now find their approach to luxury very interesting.
I Always enjoy your videos and the way you talk about Fahion in general. Your Margiela series made me appreciate the beatuy of clothes and inspired me to pursuit a career in fashion. keep up the good work looking Forward to your content in 2024.
Thanks for the great video as usual!
Ayyyyy thank YOU!! And happy new year!
This video is making me consider putting in the time with that Margiela series!!!
This was such a treat! Thank you so much
You’re so welcome! I’m glad it was useful for you 💫💫
Thanks
Beautiful ❤
i try to count how many elbow pops you make now as well as take notes on all the impressive knowledge you share. THank you
If I love Martin Margiela too is because of your contents.
I absolutely love this channel! You provide such great context and a different perspective on fashion.
Wow, thank you! 💫💫
Excelente trabajo
Learning soooo much from your videos, thx to you both for creating such high quality videos! On to Rick Owens tonight….
First video of yours I’ve seen. What wonderful content! Thank you for sharing. Hermès is a lovely quality brand of understated elegance and craftsmanship. I was fortunate to receive a special bag, not one of the “3” but a special nautical one. No one will know and that is as it should be. Looking forward to watching more.
Welcome in! If I could recommend your next video, the reeeally good ones are the ones where we can spend a lot of time on a single runway show. If you have time, check out
-Prada: Fascism and Fashion
-Issey Miyake isn’t Dead: He’s Immortal
and
-Rick Owens and Immortality: Spring 2023
Again, welcome in! I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments as you check out more videos 💫💫
Bravo Bliss
As I don't know too much about fashion, I can't give a definitive judgment on Hermès's collections, except the fact that I always find them to be breaking the mould in a very undramatic way. And I think that's what defines Hermès (and maybe in a wider way the French approach to fashion?)
Most interestingly, you see this in their fragrances, which are nearly all to be of the utmost recommendation. Hermès is now known (especially in France) for the time they had Jean-Claude Ellena at the helm, arguably the closest a "nez" has been to superstar status. He is known for his very elegant, minimalistic and refined signature, and has produced olfactive masterpieces, no doubt. But people tend to stop at those fragrances and find them too restrained, too apologetic. That's because they're not exploring the rest of the brand! First, those scents (like Terre or Eau d'Orange Verte) seem conventional today, but that's because they rewrote the rule book, then, many have this undeniably naughty or plain weird twist (Cuir d'Ange, Hiris, Eau de Gentiane Blanche, Iris Ukiyoé). Some others defy conventions (L'Eau des Merveilles is the first feminine fragrance with no flower, not even figurative, and it's GORGEOUS), and if you go back to the oldest creations for the brand, you WILL get surprised! (Eau d'Hermès, the first fragrance of the brand, is a strong, masculine wood, with a healthy dose of cumin, which gives the fragrance spice... and sweat, because yes, that's what cumin smells like). And even some creations that are less playing with the limits still keep so much tenderness, creativity and joy (Hiris again, Jour d'Hermès that smells --sorry YSL with Yvresse- like champagne, the Jardins collection). All of their fragrances are of very high quality, and just like with their creative directors, Hermès has known how to keep extremely talented leaders for a long, long time, by giving them the trust (just like you mentioned, there's no creative control from the board) that they will produce world class fragrances that stay fresh, relevant, interesting (not to say puzzling in the best way possible), transgressive and respectful of traditions at the same time, lovely, exciting and fun! To me, it somehow still is the blueprint for a luxury brand, and I'm not surprised that in fragrances, the opinion is that "Guerlain is the bourgeois brand, but Hermès is the aristocracy brand" (don't take it as an insult to either!)