Read the current instructions from they do change from time to time. Also you should put the stud in and back it off then Snug up the nuts while holding That start with an Allen key
How do you know that you are bottoming out on the end of the stud and not on the last thread of the stud? You can't see the hole where the threads run out on the stud. I suppose you could have mentioned counting the number of turns of the stud. Remember that the theads on high-end fasteners are rolled and the major dia. of the thread dia. is greater than the diameter of the stud. This is another good reason to count the number of threads, or turns, you will make before you hit bottom out. And this applies whether or not you bottom out on the end of the stud with the bottom of the hole, or bottom out on the last thread. Count the number of turns of the stud to find out if you are bottoming on the end of the stud, or on the last thread. A tip: For an engine builder and race car fabricator, I used to machine a full radius on the thread end of bolts and studs so that the bolt or stud bottoms on the radius and not on the bottoming tap partial threads. I would also cut away the last 3 threads of the bolt.Ball bearings at the bottom of the hole are nice, but sometimes the threads stop before you get to the diameter of the ball bearing. Engine blocks that come from a factory don't have bolt holes with threads that go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole. The enginebulder has a much more time-consuming job by using studs instead of bolts. Sometimes the extra holding ability of studs demand the extra work.
i like the trick with the ball bearing. thanks for the vid. i'm getting ready to install some in my ka24de.
For a tradition small block chevy, can you use ARP grease on the threads or do you need to use silicone?
Thanks for the video, I found it very useful.
Is assembly lube the preferred lubrication or can anti-seize be used also to ensure that they will come out at a later time?
Read the current instructions from they do change from time to time. Also you should put the stud in and back it off then Snug up the nuts while holding That start with an Allen key
How do you know that you are bottoming out on the end of the stud and not on the last thread of the stud? You can't see the hole where the threads run out on the stud. I suppose you could have mentioned counting the number of turns of the stud. Remember that the theads on high-end fasteners are rolled and the major dia. of the thread dia. is greater than the diameter of the stud. This is another good reason to count the number of threads, or turns, you will make before you hit bottom out. And this applies whether or not you bottom out on the end of the stud with the bottom of the hole, or bottom out on the last thread.
Count the number of turns of the stud to find out if you are bottoming on the end of the stud, or on the last thread.
A tip: For an engine builder and race car fabricator, I used to machine a full radius on the thread end of bolts and studs so that the bolt or stud bottoms on the radius and not on the bottoming tap partial threads. I would also cut away the last 3 threads of the bolt.Ball bearings at the bottom of the hole are nice, but sometimes the threads stop before you get to the diameter of the ball bearing. Engine blocks that come from a factory don't have bolt holes with threads that go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole. The enginebulder has a much more time-consuming job by using studs instead of bolts. Sometimes the extra holding ability of studs demand the extra work.
I run them in hand tight they lock in when you torque the head.
I need to do this to my 5.7 Diesel cars.
am i reading the instructions right? 90 ft lb torque for an ej257 headstud? thats double the torque of regular headstuds.
arp requires you use their lube and NOT put them in dry!
cool, just snug them down. thats what i needed to know