I went to the junkyard and got the whole assembly. (Ignition Control Module, Coil Pack, Boots) all for $30. The scrapyard is filled with plenty of those cars. Fixed my issues.
THANK YOU!!! I changed mine 4 years ago and recently was exhibiting the same issues you described. I refused to believe that it was the module and after trying almost everything that you did and after watching this video I decided to swap it out and PRESTO! Dude you saved my sanity..THANK YOU!
OK I have a 04 chevy cavalier. I replaced the spark plugs, coil pack and the module. Also did a oil and filter change. I found oil in the hose to the intake. The car is a little rough. Should I change the pcv valve to fix the rough idle? It runs OK but it does have check engine light on
Omg thank you soo much!! I fixed my 06 chevy cobolt because of your video. Had the same problem. And couldn't show n e 1 what was going on because it was random. U saved me a lot! Thanks 😊 🙏
I'm doing that next!! Also, make sure you change both the ICM(module) and Ignition coil pack for the older 2.2! The modules tend to fail early if any part of the ignition becomes a weak link
I got my '03 Saturn Ion for free from a frustrated young woman. Wouldn't start 1/10 times. I replaced the Ignitiaon Control Module from a wrecker for $40 who told me it came out of a Pontiac. It's been my daily driver for 5 years! Love it. David Alberta
Been driving my 2003 ION for over 20 years. Just changed the plugs today @ just under 190K miles (previously changed back in 2011 and kept the original Coil Pack, Module, Boots) and Cylinder #2 looked Oily (1,3,4 were dry/normal) but the Spark/Burn seemed OK. Got a Cylinder #2 Misfire and assumed it was probably a loose Spark Plug Boot. Made some adjustments see if they were "seated" OK (Hard to tell but did my best). It was still there but Code didn't set right away. Was going to order just a set of boots... But seems like I should just get a new Coil Pack, Module AND boots. Cover my bases... Keep the 21+ year old parts as back up and if the new parts fail I can try and swap in the original Saturn Part(s).
i have a 2003 saturn ion i had the same problem, i changed it just like you did after a couple of months of running fine i ran into the same problem, i found out the control module gets hot because the exhaust manifold is right there and the gasket was worn out! ,also the intake manifold made a hissing sound there were gaps between the seems of intake manifold i could fit my fingertips in . im waiting for parts to fix.
My car just doesn’t even fire on like 2 cylinders at all, I thought it was the timing chain but idk, it also started making the hissing sound your talking about, did you ever figure out what it was because I need my car and havnt been able to use it
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM, and I'm having the same issues you had. On a cold start it would run fine, but after heating up then it would misfire. And if I turned it off then on again, while still hot, it would continue to misfire. I'll switch it out then get back here, thanks a ton!
I was having the same issue. Now after changing the misfire is fixed but I’m getting camshaft sensor code. Those 2.2’s use the icm for that sensor. Any ideas how to fix this?
Hi Chad! You have the most miles on an Ecotec that I have been able to find on the internet and would like to know what oil you use and how often you change it. I also have a 2006 with 128,000 miles and she runs great and am hoping to get many more miles such as you have! Thanks!
Im happy to hear this, my wife and I bought our 2005 saturn vue in 2012 with 92k miles on it, shes still going strong in 2020 with 228K. A little rough idle but runs amazingly. My 2011 Volvo s40 timing belt broke on me on 7/8/2020 and now Im back in the vue till I can get that fixed driving 116 miles a day.
My Ion 2.2 EcoTec SUDDENLY started misfiring last night. Thing is, you priced the ICM at 60 bucks but you can get them new cheaper online. I ordered both that and the ignition coil (which is basically the Ecotec version of spark plug wires) but because it SUDDENLY started misfiring it could be a fuel injection problem because the problem didn't get worse over time. It literally happened after I got back home from the movies (and it was running fine then, and all the months before that), went inside to get my gym bag to go work out and the problem happened then. Five minutes after it was driving fine. OBD code read P0300 which is "random misfire." I really hope it it is the ICM because I am running out of money to fix my cars.
@8:30 On the back of that Ignition Control Module you need to apply a little bit of Thermal Paste to help w/heat withdrawal. I applied maybe too much, like a butter on a sandwich, but everything works fine. I replaced it just bcs of the mileage. The car is 2003 Chevy Cavalier w/2.2 L EcoTec. I didn't know that part can cause misfire, thank you for pointing out and for the great film as well.
Most people don't change the spark plugs on time. This makes the Control module work harder. Over time it fails from too much heat. Buy an OEM PART such as Echlin or BWD spend the extra money it's worth it in the long run.
I had all those misfire codes on my 2002 Grand Am too. I replaced the Champion spark plugs with oem NGK's - Problem solved. Nothing wrong with them that I could see - they just weren't NGK's.
FYI The Control Module I got (BWD) at a local parts store in southern Oregon is a sealed package and non returnable if the seal is broken around 86.99$ as of 8/13/19 coil pack 82.99, sparks plugs 7.99 x 4 = 31.96. Total cost 201.94 Car was driving fine and then I slowed to a stop for a traffic light, and when I started again engine light came on, No power and it felt like it was in limp mode.
This didn't fix my "Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire" issue for 3 reasons... 1. There was a recall out for my car, dealership replaced the ICM as part of the recall. 2. Mine is an 07 Ion, the ICM isn't in the same place and doesn't look like this, nor do my coil packs. 3. Engine ended up blowing a hole in itself 1 year after recalled parts were replaced. 😖😡
Changing the coil packs made my engine hesitation for get better for awhile… but I now am having problems again so I will replace both this time… sure didn’t last long… I think perhaps resetting the icm made it work better for awhile not sure.
I have a 2004 saturn ion. I changed the ICM, coils, and spark plugs. It really smoothed put the misfire but now. I have a P0341 camshaft position sensor code. Which the 2.2l DOES NOT have a camshaft position sensor. I can not find the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?
I replaced my coil pack and ICM years ago from a junk yard out of a Pontiac for $40. It fixed my problem then and its been running for 7 or 8 years perfectly. My current issue doesn't seem to be the same. The garage has had it for nearly 5 months. Wasn't misfiring at all. Some computer thing is burned out. Had I known this is my issue I would have replaced it again myself. I put in a new starter. I'll kick myself if my issue is an ICM again!
Ok so my 2004 saturn ion has been misfiring a ton lately and i have went through and changed spark plugs fuel filter and the number 2 O2 sensor. I think it its my icm has went bad. My question is if yours was like mine and whenever you started it it would misfire a ton and after 30 or 40 minutes of driving around it would quit for a while or whenever it wasnt misfiring as soon as i brought the car to a stop it would begin misfiring. Did your car do anything similar to that
Mine currently does...ive tried replacing the coil pak ICM, upstream 02 sensor, none of those worked. now I'm replacing my fuel injector for cylinder 4 as I type this. CE: P0304
I would replace my fuel filter before i did injectors. Does it drip any kind of fluid like gas out the exhaust when you rev it to the governor's limit?
@@Venom6967 I've already replaced the injector....now the problem got worse. I'll do the fuel filter next then.....I'm assuming at this point that it could be the fuel pump at worst.
Mine was leaking fuel out the exhaust smell it and check. Put the original injector back into it and run some heet or half a gallon of deisel through. If you do the diesel make sure it is only half a gallon and in a full tank of unleaded gas ethanol free
NotSoLegitGarage dang. I figured I could check with another ICM but was hoping there may be some way to check it with a multimeter, etc. I have a p0302 code atm along with a small eval leak. But great video and really informative.
I watched a video where it was recommended to do the coil pack and module together because the pack can cause the module to fail. But I guess at this point, it doesn't matter. This video was posted 5 years ago, and that Saturn is probably long gone. I have a 2003 Ion, and it only has 121,161 miles on it, and I think it might need a new timing chain. I just put $850 in it about a week ago, and I think it's time to call it a day on the Saturn.
I just changed my ignition control module, coil pack, spark plugs and boots and I’m still having the same issue. It did not stop my problem(the same thing you said you were having)
Chasity Stiglet it can be a number of things that cause a vehicle to misfire/run rough. It can be plugs, wires/boots, coil pack, injector(s), wiring, stopped up cat, maf sensor, intake leaks, cam solenoid (phasers or whatever the technical term is), burnt valve, etc.
they have ptoblems with crank sensor wiring. there are 3 connectors in circuit. if i wiggle mine, car dies. also timingchain guide breaks, the black onr. updated chain tensioner in 2009
Ok, so my 04 Pontiac Sunfire is misfiring when I first start it up. Worse in the morning after it sits all night. After it runs about a minute it smooths out and is just fine. Then when I get up to the speed limit whether it be 30, 40, 55, or 65 mph it doesn't seem to matter which, it starts to jerk like it's cutting out on me but will stop and run smooth again if I give it more gas or even let up on the accelerator. Plugs and boots and fuel filter are all new and even done an oil change just to rule out another item. I have had this problem since the end of last winter and when It was cold outside getting it started was not an easy task . Some days it would start and run fine without even the slightest miss and others it would start and miss really bad then die. I would have to keep restarting and finally after several tries it would keep going and then smooth out and be fine for the day. never found evidence of oil or any other contaminants on the plugs and plenty of fuel pressure at the rail. Have been suspecting icm for some time except for the problem being severe when cold instead of when warm or icm being hot. ******UPDATE******** Thought I would give an update on the situation with the Sunfire. If it never helps anyone who comes across the same issue then maybe it will give some entertainment. I'm still trying to solve this problem . I should've gotten rid of the car by now but I have never dealt with a car that had a problem I couldn't fix. It's now become an issue of fixing it for pure spite. I've swapped out the ICM and the PCM and no change, still the same issue except now I can start and it rough idles for a few seconds, smoothes out, then it's all good till it reaches normal operating temperature then back to the missing out when at idle or trying to maintain an even speed. So far I have replaced ,all electronics and every sensor. Even replaced intake manifold gaskets, injectors and I rings, fuel pressure regulator and gaskets, throttle body gasket, TPS, IAC, O2 sensors, all fuses and relays just to be sure, and new head gasket. And new coil packs made nothing better either. Have now spent more in parts than I paid for the car. Final step is just pull motor and compete tear down and rebuild.
So I bought an AcDelco ICM, instead of one of the cheaper ones, and my misfire actually got worse. Before I had the P0303 misfire code, after the new part I got a P0300, so back to the drawing board.
@@pattycakes3842 I hope you got it figured out, but what I had to end up doing was just replacing the coil pack entirely... but as with older cars, another issue came up, then another, then it started overheating soooo
@TheFarmerOfTheseLands it's usually adviced to change both the ICM and coil pack because if the coil pack is damaged, the module will have to compensentate for the extra heat and might fail prematurely. Now, one thing to make sure of is that your engine cooling fan doesn't short the relay, or the battery itself doesn't have a loose terminal. If the relay is damaged and you don't replace the it and or the fan, there will be extra heat and could kill the module
Did you get it fixed? Going thru that right now with my 06 ive changed almost everything. Fuel filter,spark plugs,fuel injectors,upstream o2 sensor,Catalityc Converter and nothing still get it randomly
Brandon Reeser that was the last thing i changed and it actually fixed the problem but i still have a check engine light sadly the car has been totally fine for the last two weeks or so
Slow 5.0 ok I just ordered the coil pack with with ICM. Have you plugged a code reader and cleared the code yet to see if it’ll stay off. That’ll typically get rid of the check engine light
I have a 2004 saturn ion, i am getting 3 different codes, a p0300, a p0455 and a p0422 (which I already determined was a gas cap issue and a new one is on the way), the random misfires started happening all of a sudden and the wheels are getting next to no torque. I took the spark plugs out and saw that 2 out of the four (in positions 1 and 3) had almost no iode left,. I ended up replacing the spark plugs. All that did was make the car start a lot smoother. My next move is to replace the egr and icm and hopefully that will change something. If anyone has any other ideas all help is welcome.
Thank you. I have been making this comment on our saturn ion. 2004. My husband let it sit for 6 months out of frustration because of a pass code lock couldn't start finally reset alarm fired up but the misfire code is on and I swore its the eco because it has come back again. I'm gonna try the eco fix.
I think that problem can be mitigated by installing the updated chain tensioner, maybe fixing PCV system to not burn oil, and keeping up with oil maintenance. The pull apart yard was full of these, and every one had something in common. Leaking oil from somewhere, and burnt ass nasty valve covers. So i think most ppl have problems due to oil maintenance.
At 6:40 he finally gets to the point....Ignition control module! But, he does not explain how to test them or how to know if we are getting another bad one from the junkyard....
TheStudio of Hope Corporation That’s because there is no way to test them especially in my situation that’s why I explain for so long because nobody else does, if you don’t like the video don’t watch it
MrJohnnyDistortion that was a test method recommended by a certified technician I know, there really is no way to test it other than that if it’s a heat related issue
@@notsolegitgarage2967 Right. It's that plastic cover with the foam wedged in between it and the ICM not allowing it to radiate heat away. Remove the foam that sits between the ICM and that plastic cosmetic cover, drill some vent holes through the plastic above the ICM and it should radiate the heat awsy and you'll never have any problems again.
Engineers build new vehicles to cause problems and make them disposable , older vehicles had electronics and coil mounted to the fender or firewall to keep them cool . Like I said in other videos , these new generation tupperware cars are getting more and more less reliable and designed with a built in shelf life . I'll keep my old mechanical diesel .
Is my 2005 Cobalt 2.2 an ecotec engine or is the ecotec engine a different animal from my 2.2? And, was your fuel mileage going down and then go back to normal after you replaced the ICM?
@@notsolegitgarage2967 I replaced the ICM today and it ran much better and quieter actually and the check engine light was now off. After an hour I wet to go out and it ran very rough and the check engine light was on and blinking. I shut it off for a few seconds and started it up again and it ran smooth again, the fuel mileage is going back up slowly. I think that the plastic cover with the foam underneath it is not allowing the ICM fins to radiate het away causing heat damage to the ICM. The foam sits on top wedged between the ICM and that cover. I left the cover off and plan on removing the foam from that area and drilling some vent holes in the plastic directly above the ICM.
I caught a PO420 code popped up on my 2002 Pontiac Grand Am a while back. I was told to run a quart of Lacquer Thinner in the tank, and run it for like 50-100 miles, and the code would clear. I cleared the code, and it did not come back for a few months. Now knocking out the guts will give you I think a bigger problem as far as emission testing is concerned. The Lacquer Thinner breaks down the particles that are trapped in the honey comb design of the converter, and it dissipates from the exhaust.
After market cats are super cheap for these 4 cylinder engines! Thats why there so great cus there durable and inexpensive to fix. I have 200k on my and no issues with the cat. Btw has anyone ran seafoam thru the intake to clean the engine and get some horses back??
@@notsolegitgarage2967 I just replaced that also :( it's starting to get worst now , normal gas press itll stall from a standing still position, but bogs town then guns it if floor it
Power loss is a sign of a catalytic converter and if ain't hardly any exhaust coming out the tail pipe, that's a good clue or at night time you can see em better cause they turn cherry red from being really hot cause the exhaust ain't flowing properly...I'm old school and I do things the old way cause I can't afford all those gadgets we have to have to troubleshoot em lol. The quick way to clog converters is the oxygen sensor cause the black sutt is what I think clogs em. I put a half a million miles on a 84 Ford 3.8 engine and everytime I changed the fluids I'd take the oxygen sensor out and clean it really good and I never ever had to change the cat on it., It always had plenty of power while putting all those miles on it and the only reason I got rid of the car, the radiator sprung a leak and I's to cheap to pay 360 bucks for a brand new radiator cause in the 90s a radiator wasn't cheap. Now they're under a hundred bucks lol...Especially for a cheap made 84 Ford LTD that was basically a Ford Fairmont... I'm not going to kick the tires on em cause that was a very very dependable car lol...
I went to the junkyard and got the whole assembly. (Ignition Control Module, Coil Pack, Boots) all for $30. The scrapyard is filled with plenty of those cars. Fixed my issues.
THANK YOU!!! I changed mine 4 years ago and recently was exhibiting the same issues you described. I refused to believe that it was the module and after trying almost everything that you did and after watching this video I decided to swap it out and PRESTO!
Dude you saved my sanity..THANK YOU!
i know Im kinda randomly asking but do anyone know of a good site to stream newly released series online?
It is the Throttle Position Sensor
I changed coils & plugs on my 2011 2.2 HHR ..what a Difference 😀after 100,000 miles👍
OK I have a 04 chevy cavalier. I replaced the spark plugs, coil pack and the module. Also did a oil and filter change. I found oil in the hose to the intake. The car is a little rough. Should I change the pcv valve to fix the rough idle? It runs OK but it does have check engine light on
DUDE! I have been searching FOREVER for this answer. THANK YOU!! 🤟
Wow. this video help me save big money.Thanks you very much sir. my 06 saturn ion fixed for $25 order from ebay.
Omg thank you soo much!! I fixed my 06 chevy cobolt because of your video. Had the same problem. And couldn't show n e 1 what was going on because it was random. U saved me a lot! Thanks 😊 🙏
I have an 06 Cobalt. Changed the plugs and it didn't help sooo, fingers crossed, I'm changing the ICM. Wish me luck!!!
@@teresacandeloro5687 did it fix it?
@@chrisberry5051 yes
I'm doing that next!! Also, make sure you change both the ICM(module) and Ignition coil pack for the older 2.2! The modules tend to fail early if any part of the ignition becomes a weak link
I just bought an 03 saturn ion today (3/5/19) its a neat lil car
If it has the 2.2 in it just keep up with the oil, my 05 saturn vue has 228K on it and still going strong.
I got my '03 Saturn Ion for free from a frustrated young woman. Wouldn't start 1/10 times. I replaced the Ignitiaon Control Module from a wrecker for $40 who told me it came out of a Pontiac.
It's been my daily driver for 5 years!
Love it.
David
Alberta
Been driving my 2003 ION for over 20 years. Just changed the plugs today @ just under 190K miles (previously changed back in 2011 and kept the original Coil Pack, Module, Boots) and Cylinder #2 looked Oily (1,3,4 were dry/normal) but the Spark/Burn seemed OK.
Got a Cylinder #2 Misfire and assumed it was probably a loose Spark Plug Boot. Made some adjustments see if they were "seated" OK (Hard to tell but did my best).
It was still there but Code didn't set right away. Was going to order just a set of boots... But seems like I should just get a new Coil Pack, Module AND boots. Cover my bases... Keep the 21+ year old parts as back up and if the new parts fail I can try and swap in the original Saturn Part(s).
Thanks for the vid. Changed plugs and fuel filter first and nothing changed. Then changed the ICM and voila.....purrs like a kitten...2005 cavalier
i have a 2003 saturn ion i had the same problem, i changed it just like you did after a couple of months of running fine i ran into the same problem, i found out the control module gets hot because the exhaust manifold is right there and the gasket was worn out! ,also the intake manifold made a hissing sound there were gaps between the seems of intake manifold i could fit my fingertips in . im waiting for parts to fix.
My car just doesn’t even fire on like 2 cylinders at all, I thought it was the timing chain but idk, it also started making the hissing sound your talking about, did you ever figure out what it was because I need my car and havnt been able to use it
Same
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM, and I'm having the same issues you had. On a cold start it would run fine, but after heating up then it would misfire. And if I turned it off then on again, while still hot, it would continue to misfire. I'll switch it out then get back here, thanks a ton!
AlphaZoa5 I have a 03 grand am same thing trying to figure it out still
Try replacing the o2 sensor
I was having the same issue. Now after changing the misfire is fixed but I’m getting camshaft sensor code. Those 2.2’s use the icm for that sensor. Any ideas how to fix this?
I have an 06 Saturn ion with 297,000 miles. When mine did it, it ended up being the wiring harness that goes from the computer to the coil packs
Hi Chad! You have the most miles on an Ecotec that I have been able to find on the internet and would like to know what oil you use and how often you change it. I also have a 2006 with 128,000 miles and she runs great and am hoping to get many more miles such as you have! Thanks!
I have 2010 hhr 320,000miles just came up with code today. Yay
Im happy to hear this, my wife and I bought our 2005 saturn vue in 2012 with 92k miles on it, shes still going strong in 2020 with 228K. A little rough idle but runs amazingly. My 2011 Volvo s40 timing belt broke on me on 7/8/2020 and now Im back in the vue till I can get that fixed driving 116 miles a day.
I have a 2003 Vue with the 2.2. it's got 358,208 miles on it, I try to change it every 4 thousand miles, mobil one or Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic.
Damm one more thing to worry about, so what did you do for that harness?
My Ion 2.2 EcoTec SUDDENLY started misfiring last night. Thing is, you priced the ICM at 60 bucks but you can get them new cheaper online. I ordered both that and the ignition coil (which is basically the Ecotec version of spark plug wires) but because it SUDDENLY started misfiring it could be a fuel injection problem because the problem didn't get worse over time. It literally happened after I got back home from the movies (and it was running fine then, and all the months before that), went inside to get my gym bag to go work out and the problem happened then. Five minutes after it was driving fine. OBD code read P0300 which is "random misfire." I really hope it it is the ICM because I am running out of money to fix my cars.
@8:30 On the back of that Ignition Control Module you need to apply a little bit of Thermal Paste to help w/heat withdrawal. I applied maybe too much, like a butter on a sandwich, but everything works fine. I replaced it just bcs of the mileage. The car is 2003 Chevy Cavalier w/2.2 L EcoTec. I didn't know that part can cause misfire, thank you for pointing out and for the great film as well.
Saved me ! God bless your soul.
Going to try this, your video is the only one that matches my symptoms and makes sense.
Most people don't change the spark plugs on time. This makes the Control module work harder. Over time it fails from too much heat. Buy an OEM PART such as Echlin or BWD spend the extra money it's worth it in the long run.
What about an NGK ignitionpack with module? Are they good?
I had all those misfire codes on my 2002 Grand Am too. I replaced the Champion spark plugs with oem NGK's - Problem solved. Nothing wrong with them that I could see - they just weren't NGK's.
dam u seem calm about it, was that always the case trying to figure it out..I would have blew it up
FYI The Control Module I got (BWD) at a local parts store in southern Oregon is a sealed package and non returnable if the seal is broken around 86.99$ as of 8/13/19
coil pack 82.99, sparks plugs 7.99 x 4 = 31.96.
Total cost 201.94
Car was driving fine and then I slowed to a stop for a traffic light, and when I started again engine light came on, No power and it felt like it was in limp mode.
We just replaced coils plugs new module ran good for a whole day now its right back to doing the same thing.
This didn't fix my "Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire" issue for 3 reasons...
1. There was a recall out for my car, dealership replaced the ICM as part of the recall.
2. Mine is an 07 Ion, the ICM isn't in the same place and doesn't look like this, nor do my coil packs.
3. Engine ended up blowing a hole in itself 1 year after recalled parts were replaced. 😖😡
How do you bench test the ICM or the coils? My engine cranks but will not turn over so I can't do any run testing.
Well in that case, you’ll maybe just grab one cheap from the junkyard and see if it’s the reason.
was the valves making a clapping loud noise as well?
Can't wait to get home And try to see if this is the issue. Thx for this helpful video. I'll report back soon as i can if that helped or not
Did it work
What do mean by “misfire”? Wasn’t explained. Do you mean, engine skipped and clunked briefly? Or that the engine actually shut off? Thanks!
I have a surging problem my rpm jerks back n forth it’s on a cobalt
Changing the coil packs made my engine hesitation for get better for awhile… but I now am having problems again so I will replace both this time… sure didn’t last long… I think perhaps resetting the icm made it work better for awhile not sure.
Ignition control module could be it Thanks
My 2006 chevy cobalt comes up code O3O4 misfire cyl 4. Replaced spark plugs, ignition coil pack, ignition control module, spark plugs, O2 sensor. Still misfiring
@Jonathan A it was an exposed wiring to mass air flow sensor rubbing on a bracket. Light is gone
Now can missfires cause engines to knock or even stall?
I have a 2004 saturn ion. I changed the ICM, coils, and spark plugs. It really smoothed put the misfire but now. I have a P0341 camshaft position sensor code. Which the 2.2l DOES NOT have a camshaft position sensor. I can not find the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?
Could this cause a P0300 random misfire code?
no fuel injection or intake /throttle body cleaning?
Just recently my car was vibrating aggresively too as if the muffler was hitting the bumper really bad and causing the whole car to shake
I replaced my coil pack and ICM years ago from a junk yard out of a Pontiac for $40. It fixed my problem then and its been running for 7 or 8 years perfectly. My current issue doesn't seem to be the same. The garage has had it for nearly 5 months. Wasn't misfiring at all. Some computer thing is burned out. Had I known this is my issue I would have replaced it again myself. I put in a new starter. I'll kick myself if my issue is an ICM again!
That motor seems kind of loud compared to mine mine runs real smooth my bad I think that it is the fan running that makes it sound louder
How do you call this part?
Ok so my 2004 saturn ion has been misfiring a ton lately and i have went through and changed spark plugs fuel filter and the number 2 O2 sensor. I think it its my icm has went bad. My question is if yours was like mine and whenever you started it it would misfire a ton and after 30 or 40 minutes of driving around it would quit for a while or whenever it wasnt misfiring as soon as i brought the car to a stop it would begin misfiring. Did your car do anything similar to that
Mine currently does...ive tried replacing the coil pak ICM, upstream 02 sensor, none of those worked. now I'm replacing my fuel injector for cylinder 4 as I type this. CE: P0304
I would replace my fuel filter before i did injectors. Does it drip any kind of fluid like gas out the exhaust when you rev it to the governor's limit?
@@Venom6967 I've already replaced the injector....now the problem got worse. I'll do the fuel filter next then.....I'm assuming at this point that it could be the fuel pump at worst.
@@Venom6967 yes it has driped fluid out the exhaust...i dont know what kind tho
Mine was leaking fuel out the exhaust smell it and check. Put the original injector back into it and run some heet or half a gallon of deisel through. If you do the diesel make sure it is only half a gallon and in a full tank of unleaded gas ethanol free
I have an 06 ion. How can we test the ICM?
Mateusz Pitrus you cant really test it
NotSoLegitGarage dang. I figured I could check with another ICM but was hoping there may be some way to check it with a multimeter, etc. I have a p0302 code atm along with a small eval leak. But great video and really informative.
I buy parts from rockauto.com half the cost from anywhere else and never recieved bad parts "yet".
In my case, PO304 problem was the egnition coil
Thanks dude! Saved me from buying a cat!
If this is about a missfire why sooooooo much dashtime?
I watched a video where it was recommended to do the coil pack and module together because the pack can cause the module to fail. But I guess at this point, it doesn't matter. This video was posted 5 years ago, and that Saturn is probably long gone. I have a 2003 Ion, and it only has 121,161 miles on it, and I think it might need a new timing chain. I just put $850 in it about a week ago, and I think it's time to call it a day on the Saturn.
I just changed my ignition control module, coil pack, spark plugs and boots and I’m still having the same issue. It did not stop my problem(the same thing you said you were having)
Chasity Stiglet it can be a number of things that cause a vehicle to misfire/run rough. It can be plugs, wires/boots, coil pack, injector(s), wiring, stopped up cat, maf sensor, intake leaks, cam solenoid (phasers or whatever the technical term is), burnt valve, etc.
they have ptoblems with crank sensor wiring. there are 3 connectors in circuit. if i wiggle mine, car dies. also timingchain guide breaks, the black onr. updated chain tensioner in 2009
very good video keep up the good work.
Ok, so my 04 Pontiac Sunfire is misfiring when I first start it up. Worse in the morning after it sits all night. After it runs about a minute it smooths out and is just fine. Then when I get up to the speed limit whether it be 30, 40, 55, or 65 mph it doesn't seem to matter which, it starts to jerk like it's cutting out on me but will stop and run smooth again if I give it more gas or even let up on the accelerator. Plugs and boots and fuel filter are all new and even done an oil change just to rule out another item. I have had this problem since the end of last winter and when It was cold outside getting it started was not an easy task . Some days it would start and run fine without even the slightest miss and others it would start and miss really bad then die. I would have to keep restarting and finally after several tries it would keep going and then smooth out and be fine for the day. never found evidence of oil or any other contaminants on the plugs and plenty of fuel pressure at the rail. Have been suspecting icm for some time except for the problem being severe when cold instead of when warm or icm being hot.
******UPDATE********
Thought I would give an update on the situation with the Sunfire.
If it never helps anyone who comes across the same issue then maybe it will give some entertainment. I'm still trying to solve this problem . I should've gotten rid of the car by now but I have never dealt with a car that had a problem I couldn't fix. It's now become an issue of fixing it for pure spite. I've swapped out the ICM and the PCM and no change, still the same issue except now I can start and it rough idles for a few seconds, smoothes out, then it's all good till it reaches normal operating temperature then back to the missing out when at idle or trying to maintain an even speed. So far I have replaced ,all electronics and every sensor. Even replaced intake manifold gaskets, injectors and I rings, fuel pressure regulator and gaskets, throttle body gasket, TPS, IAC, O2 sensors, all fuses and relays just to be sure, and new head gasket. And new coil packs made nothing better either. Have now spent more in parts than I paid for the car. Final step is just pull motor and compete tear down and rebuild.
Help a lot! Thank you Sir
I wonder if this is my problem. All of the sudden my cavalier started to misfire really bad
What part number would that be
So what was the car doing ?
So I bought an AcDelco ICM, instead of one of the cheaper ones, and my misfire actually got worse. Before I had the P0303 misfire code, after the new part I got a P0300, so back to the drawing board.
Same here what ended happening? We cant figure out what to do next
Spark plugs?
Maybe fuel filter.
@@pattycakes3842 I hope you got it figured out, but what I had to end up doing was just replacing the coil pack entirely... but as with older cars, another issue came up, then another, then it started overheating soooo
@TheFarmerOfTheseLands it's usually adviced to change both the ICM and coil pack because if the coil pack is damaged, the module will have to compensentate for the extra heat and might fail prematurely. Now, one thing to make sure of is that your engine cooling fan doesn't short the relay, or the battery itself doesn't have a loose terminal. If the relay is damaged and you don't replace the it and or the fan, there will be extra heat and could kill the module
Do you need to program a new ICM?
Replaced mine a year ago and now it's doing it again
I am dealing with the same exact problem on my 05 Chevy cobalt.
Did you get it fixed? Going thru that right now with my 06 ive changed almost everything. Fuel filter,spark plugs,fuel injectors,upstream o2 sensor,Catalityc Converter and nothing still get it randomly
Slow 5.0 did you change the coil packs? Or ICM? I have the same problem
Brandon Reeser that was the last thing i changed and it actually fixed the problem but i still have a check engine light sadly the car has been totally fine for the last two weeks or so
Slow 5.0 ok I just ordered the coil pack with with ICM. Have you plugged a code reader and cleared the code yet to see if it’ll stay off. That’ll typically get rid of the check engine light
Brandon Reeser yes i did that and came back on right away not even 5 minutes later.
Changing the ignition control module is good for maintenance but it won’t get check engine light off
e30, e83 if it stops it from miss firing it sure will
NotSoLegitGarage I changed mine fir that reason and just because it was due but my light is still on
e30, e83 yea you have to know what the light is on for and you have to clear the light
You saved me so much money thank you
Does anyone have a ignition working control module for 2006 cobalt
Thank you thank you thank you!
Great job. Thanks
Get to the point my guy
painful lol
Somebody loves the sound of his own voice 😂
ian builds 😂
Like stfu and tell us
Alot of this was good information
Thank you so much your video is very helpful
I have a 2004 saturn ion, i am getting 3 different codes, a p0300, a p0455 and a p0422 (which I already determined was a gas cap issue and a new one is on the way), the random misfires started happening all of a sudden and the wheels are getting next to no torque. I took the spark plugs out and saw that 2 out of the four (in positions 1 and 3) had almost no iode left,. I ended up replacing the spark plugs. All that did was make the car start a lot smoother. My next move is to replace the egr and icm and hopefully that will change something. If anyone has any other ideas all help is welcome.
Had the same issue with my ion.
I have the some problem that you have
Thank you. I have been making this comment on our saturn ion. 2004. My husband let it sit for 6 months out of frustration because of a pass code lock couldn't start finally reset alarm fired up but the misfire code is on and I swore its the eco because it has come back again. I'm gonna try the eco fix.
Thank you so much!
These engines have guaranteed issues with timing chain guides..(especially the upper guide) which leads to chain jumping a tooth and loosing timing
I think that problem can be mitigated by installing the updated chain tensioner, maybe fixing PCV system to not burn oil, and keeping up with oil maintenance.
The pull apart yard was full of these, and every one had something in common. Leaking oil from somewhere, and burnt ass nasty valve covers. So i think most ppl have problems due to oil maintenance.
Sam problem I'll try and replaced
Did it work! Worked for me
My car is doing the same thing but I turn it off for a min start it back and it's gone
Definitely sounds like your ignition control module is bad that’s what my car would do as well
Great 👍 stuff good to know
Im just slowly confirming the thing i thought i was imagining
At 6:40 he finally gets to the point....Ignition control module! But, he does not explain how to test them or how to know if we are getting another bad one from the junkyard....
TheStudio of Hope Corporation That’s because there is no way to test them especially in my situation that’s why I explain for so long because nobody else does, if you don’t like the video don’t watch it
He clearly said to heat it up with a heat gun to see if you could recreate the issue but that's probably not a professional method.
MrJohnnyDistortion that was a test method recommended by a certified technician I know, there really is no way to test it other than that if it’s a heat related issue
@@notsolegitgarage2967
Right. It's that plastic cover with the foam wedged in between it and the ICM not allowing it to radiate heat away. Remove the foam that sits between the ICM and that plastic cosmetic cover, drill some vent holes through the plastic above the ICM and it should radiate the heat awsy and you'll never have any problems again.
Thank you for that hot tip lol it was needed
Engineers build new vehicles to cause problems and make them disposable , older vehicles had electronics and coil mounted to the fender or firewall to keep them cool . Like I said in other videos , these new generation tupperware cars are getting more and more less reliable and designed with a built in shelf life . I'll keep my old mechanical diesel .
Passlock leave door open with key on the on position for 15min
Thank you.....
Thanks Guy
these suffer from defective fuel pressure solenoids and lazy high pressure pumps
And the Chevrolet Cavalier 2003 and 2004 what's mine is a 2004 has that same motor
So are you saying it was a random misfire?
Billy Minder yes
Is my 2005 Cobalt 2.2 an ecotec engine or is the ecotec engine a different animal from my 2.2?
And, was your fuel mileage going down and then go back to normal after you replaced the ICM?
MrJohnnyDistortion yes it is the exact same engine that is actually the same year and model car I used to get the icm off of to test the issue
MrJohnnyDistortion I’m not sure if there was any change in gas mileage
@@notsolegitgarage2967
I replaced the ICM today and it ran much better and quieter actually and the check engine light was now off. After an hour I wet to go out and it ran very rough and the check engine light was on and blinking. I shut it off for a few seconds and started it up again and it ran smooth again, the fuel mileage is going back up slowly.
I think that the plastic cover with the foam underneath it is not allowing the ICM fins to radiate het away causing heat damage to the ICM. The foam sits on top wedged between the ICM and that cover. I left the cover off and plan on removing the foam from that area and drilling some vent holes in the plastic directly above the ICM.
Cat converters are cheap to fix it they clog. Take a long bar and knock the guts out problem solved.
I caught a PO420 code popped up on my 2002 Pontiac Grand Am a while back. I was told to run a quart of Lacquer Thinner in the tank, and run it for like 50-100 miles, and the code would clear. I cleared the code, and it did not come back for a few months. Now knocking out the guts will give you I think a bigger problem as far as emission testing is concerned. The Lacquer Thinner breaks down the particles that are trapped in the honey comb design of the converter, and it dissipates from the exhaust.
After market cats are super cheap for these 4 cylinder engines! Thats why there so great cus there durable and inexpensive to fix. I have 200k on my and no issues with the cat. Btw has anyone ran seafoam thru the intake to clean the engine and get some horses back??
Yeah thats true i just fix mine thanks
Same issue, replaced, still same issue
Greatest Ever it’s probably your coil pack module that the icm bolts to
@@notsolegitgarage2967 I just replaced that also :( it's starting to get worst now , normal gas press itll stall from a standing still position, but bogs town then guns it if floor it
Hooked up to a live scan tool and itll misfire randomly on all cyclinders like 26 times on cyc 1 , 15 on 3 , 4 on 2 , 10 on 4
Merci j ai le même problème
Power loss is a sign of a catalytic converter and if ain't hardly any exhaust coming out the tail pipe, that's a good clue or at night time you can see em better cause they turn cherry red from being really hot cause the exhaust ain't flowing properly...I'm old school and I do things the old way cause I can't afford all those gadgets we have to have to troubleshoot em lol. The quick way to clog converters is the oxygen sensor cause the black sutt is what I think clogs em. I put a half a million miles on a 84 Ford 3.8 engine and everytime I changed the fluids I'd take the oxygen sensor out and clean it really good and I never ever had to change the cat on it., It always had plenty of power while putting all those miles on it and the only reason I got rid of the car, the radiator sprung a leak and I's to cheap to pay 360 bucks for a brand new radiator cause in the 90s a radiator wasn't cheap. Now they're under a hundred bucks lol...Especially for a cheap made 84 Ford LTD that was basically a Ford Fairmont... I'm not going to kick the tires on em cause that was a very very dependable car lol...
Throttle Position Sensor
The cat was probably bad because of the constant misfire. They had to start somewhere
Bro is sitting in the car while vid😂
Todo bien
I want to hear the symptoms and the fix, not your life story
Ok
Holy smokes. Should have been a 30 second video.
I love these videos, I love how people posting help others out.
But FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, GET TO THE POINT!!!!
Bro you talk a lot !! At least talk faster bro just saying as a tip ( I'm trying to help u)!!!
Had to skip through 8 minutes just to hear about it being the ICM
Dude people suck they never get to the point lol
Way too much un-needed dialog