More tips for you in relation to your Shimano brales/XTR issue (as you've mentioned it a few times on other vids: For anyone with this Shimano wandering bite point issue, just buy a bottle of Putoline HPX R 2.5. - Putoline HPX R 2.5 is 1336% thinner than Shimano at -40°C. - Putoline HPX R 2.5 is 68% thinner than Shimano at ambient temp. - Putoline HPX R 2.5 is 25.5% thinner than Shimano at 40°C. - Putoline HPX R 2.5 is 21% thicker than Shimano at 100°C It's thinner at the majority of temps you're riding at and when really cooking/dragging the brakes for super long alpine descents it has a higher boiling point = less fade. Thinner = doesn't choke the Servo Wave bladder when you're going on/off/on/off rapid succession on Shimano brakes (which is exacerbated if you any little trace of air in the system). Or if you want more power/super light feel then do what I did and pick up a set of Hayes Dominion A4s - has the Shimano grunt but in a more controlled manner (maybe 20% step in the direction of a SRAM brake modulation feel) but with more power vs. Shimano and the lightest lever action by far (less than 1/2 the force of a Shimano lever and about 1/4 of the force vs a SRAM Maven).
I have read awesome things about the Dominions and thought about their 2 pistons, but much like with a Manitou fork, I just stayed with what I know. I couldn't find Putoline anywhere so I ordered Bleedkit dotcom Gold oil and tried it (Vital had a review and said it help their Shimanos) but I noticed no difference at all. Like with most everyone else I noticed it more on the rear and finally just cut my loses. With my 6100s on 2 bikes, it's all good with Shimano oil and it was my fault for not listening to my own freaking advice as the lure and price of the shinny silver parts was just too great. Hopefully Shimano has admitted internally that they have a consistency problem with their current lever design (I've never seen them publicly address it) and fixes it once and for all on the new brakes that I have seen on the World Cup... they look ready for production and I'm betting by next April they will be released!
The Filmore valves are the key - not sure what issues you had with them. Makes using a high volume pump actually practical both in floor pump and hand pump mode if you flat in the field. Doesn't clog, allows you to adjust PSI without removing the cap. I have them on all my 5 wheelsets across 4 bikes. Especially for my wife, using a hand pump to add air in the field is so much easier (and no more unthreading valve cores or cleaning valve cores).
Hey ll88! You are definitely in the majority for riders that have tried the Fillmores and I know lots of people love them. For me, I use an air compressor to seat tires and need to be able to remove the core and I use a Park Tool sealant injector (or old 2oz Stan's bottle) and also need to be able to remove the core. I bought a bag of 30 cores about 7yrs ago for less than $10 and still haven't used even half of them! I'm sure I could get used to the Reserve valves, but for me I just don't have any issues with standard valves and cores.
@ThunderStruckMTB For the injector, just buy any standard width medical tubing (like the one Orange Seal provide on the ends of their bottles) and it fits over any medical syringe + over the valve to inject. You can also use a Stans little bottle to inject, just cut the tip a couple mm so it's big enough to fit over the Filmore valve. No core removal needed, sealant fills around the plunger from pressure easily. In addition to the benefits above you no longer need to remove cores then quickly reinstall the core - put air in and it's sealed. You can easily put a $1 Presta to Schrader on if your compressor for some reason doesn't work with Fillmores (can't imagine why it wouldn't, it has the same thread pitch and diameter).
@@lenolenoleno Thanks for the tips! Maybe I'll give em a go on the next tire run and try for myself. I'm assuming I can still use my analog psi gauge to set pressures before every ride? The cap would need to be off for that and then put back on before I ride?
@@ThunderStruckMTB Yes correct, all gauges (I've used ones from SKS, Topeak and Schwalbe) and pumps (used Lezyne screw ons, SKS push ons, Silca push ons) with no issue. Cap comes off (like you would with a presta valve if you ran a cap) and reinstalled after. It's important to not lose that cap since it locks the plunger in place though if you do, the pressure from inside the tyre ensures stays put. I liken the valves to when I started MTBing 15 years ago and used my old 260psi track bike pump to inflate MTB tyres. Sure, I never "had a problem with it" and "it worked" but when I got a HV (like a Joe Blow Mountain which maxes at 60psi) or semi-HV (like an SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi which is kind of like a 1.5x air of a standard floor pump) it was so much better for higher volume tyres (pumping about 2-3x less) / just a better tool for the job. It also means I've never had to use a compressor to inflate a MTB tyre for 10+ years and the Filmore Valve makes it even easier/quicker to inflate your tyre. One last tip on the tubeless front (since I saw your other vid and something that'll make you an even better Tubeless-er). If you manually seat your bead (which takes all of 5 seconds each side of your tyre) you never need a compressor for a MTB tyre ever again. I've tubelessed maybe 300 tyres in the last 5 years and needed to use my little AirShot reservior maybe 10 times and they were all sub 30mm road tyres. Best demonstration of manually seating I can find on YT: th-cam.com/video/dFhWf00s7G4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=I8F_SMk-Dusz5lmC&t=215
@@lenolenoleno Great stuff! I really appreciate the in depth reply and you're welcome to costar on an episode of TSMTB any time! I will give them a go on Old Greenie most likely and see what I think.... but I am an old dawg, so we'll see! I'm just glad I had another view for my tubeless tutorial! You probably make 11 now...🤣
Yet again another great video. Keep up the good work! Four upgrades that transformed the ride for me when you’re talking about compliance are the new Schwalbe Albert tires paired with Berd Hawk 30x rims, /ODI vanquish grips with 3DO technology and a specialized power pro mirror, 3-D printed saddle I can’t state it enough how comfortable of a ride those parts have made my hard tail riding experience
Hey 6200! Man, thank you for that, it's very much appreciated! Holy cow you have some nice parts! I have heard amazing things about the Berd wheels and spokes as well as your Spesh 3D power pro saddle and I bet they are both freaking awesome. It's the first I've heard about the ODI Vanquish grips and thanks for the heads up! I did 18 miles this morning and it's so great when you're not miserable just sitting on the bike and that is such an understated thing when talking about component upgrades.... it's always weight, weight, weight it seems. Thanks for adding to the video! 👍
@@block-du9md I have not as I am a card carrying DT 350 fanboy.... heck, I might be the local chapter President!😅 I have heard great things and I bet that silent ride is really something else.
Cool vid. I’m considering the Reserve XC 28 since I don’t ride hard and I’m under 140lbs. Though I wonder if they would be as compliant as the SL you have.
Hey gbrox! Thanks for that! I have never ridden the Reserve XC wheelset, so everything from here out is simply my best guess. Based on my experience with 32 and 28 spoke wheels, I would think that the XC's 24 spoke build would help lend to even more compliance than my SLs. They obviously could've changed the carbon layup in the XC rim, but at least the shape looks the same from the naked eye... Here is what I would do if I were you, I would call Santa Cruz and ask them that question and I bet you would get a firsthand answer as they have always been very helpful for me. If you do pull the trigger on a set I would love to hear your thoughts if you can remember to come on back here! Best of luck whichever way you go.
Hi Arise!! I figured you would like that!🙃 I almost started freaking laughing right then and there, but professionally kept it together somehow. Can't wait to see you and Old Greenie's yours!🤟
Hopefully you got good enough discount because they’re coming with a 350 DEG 90T hubs now. Maybe you got these before Reserve announced that? But if 54T doesn’t make much difference for you it’s not worth worrying about. I find 36T ok. Also there’s no long term on the DEG hubs yet, could have another EXP situation. At least you can trust the 350 Classic. I’m on 350/XM481/EX471, no complaints. UK, so feel have to go custom for brass nipples. Had thought about rebuilding mine with Reserve rims but they only come 28h. So I’d need 3 new DT 350 hubs too. 2x rear and 1x front. Bike is looking great though, the little red logo just sets it off. Still haven’t had chance to look at my bearing/headtube. Going to try to make time tomorrow
Hey Justin! Hopefully either SC takes care of you, or you can massage the lower cup/race just a bit with that 2000 grit (and water) sand paper. If you could identify the high spot (guessing it's egg shaped and not just a too small perfectly round hole), you could just hit that with 30-50 passes and I bet you see a difference pretty quickly... I did! You nailed it right on the head with DEG! I had the option for either and I'm perfectly happy with 36T and I was worried about reliability of an unknown as well as noise.. heck, the 54T is already too loud for me compared to the 36T. Your wheelset is awesome and proven to be bullet proof. Let me know what you find with your headtube and if I can help in any other way!
Congrats Darrel . It's nice to have a bit of a roll forward . You have a plan , you execute it and it works out . Bike looks great . Yeah big squishy grips are very helpful for the hands .
@@stevencole7331 Hi Steve! Thanks!! Win streaks are always nice that's for sure.... whether they're on the softball field or the garage😅I suffered a bit of a loss today and am frustrated with my seatpost but we'll see how bad it is.... it was good while it lasted! I smell a new video.🤔
Hey Hanson! Yep! I tried Bleedkit dotcom Gold oil and every bleed trick I know of with multiple oils and nothing I did fixed it. I should've listened to my own advice, but I never had an XTR component and hoped they would be different, but it was just more of the same for me. My 6100s have plenty of power for me and where I ride and have a consistent feel so all is good now. ... I knew better.😠
Hey Chisavu! Great question! While I was waiting for this 2nd Matt Blackout v8 Chameleon I was doing just that as a contingency plan. I looked at everything and it came down to a Sonder Signal Ti or a Neuhaus Solstice or Hummingbird. The Yeti ARC is nice but I really don't want a PF BB. Stanton's bikes are nice but they are a little too enduro for me. I really LOVE the Ibis D9 and is probably the bike I really need if I'm being honest, but I HATE the way it looks.... stupid I know, but it's just the truth.🤓 Also, I've never had a carbon frame before and I'm a little nervous with rock impacts here in the high desert, but that's me just being me. The Cannondale Habit HT and Trek Roscoe are also nice, but again just a little too enduro for me. I've still got my eye on the Ibis DV9 and if they make some changes to the top tube in the next few years I may give one a go as I get older as a 'bridge' to a light weight pedal assist bike in my late 60s... hopefully never, but I think that's just a wish. A long winded answer I know, but I am TS MTB and I do like to talk waaaay too much!! 😅
More tips for you in relation to your Shimano brales/XTR issue (as you've mentioned it a few times on other vids:
For anyone with this Shimano wandering bite point issue, just buy a bottle of Putoline HPX R 2.5.
- Putoline HPX R 2.5 is 1336% thinner than Shimano at -40°C.
- Putoline HPX R 2.5 is 68% thinner than Shimano at ambient temp.
- Putoline HPX R 2.5 is 25.5% thinner than Shimano at 40°C.
- Putoline HPX R 2.5 is 21% thicker than Shimano at 100°C
It's thinner at the majority of temps you're riding at and when really cooking/dragging the brakes for super long alpine descents it has a higher boiling point = less fade.
Thinner = doesn't choke the Servo Wave bladder when you're going on/off/on/off rapid succession on Shimano brakes (which is exacerbated if you any little trace of air in the system).
Or if you want more power/super light feel then do what I did and pick up a set of Hayes Dominion A4s - has the Shimano grunt but in a more controlled manner (maybe 20% step in the direction of a SRAM brake modulation feel) but with more power vs. Shimano and the lightest lever action by far (less than 1/2 the force of a Shimano lever and about 1/4 of the force vs a SRAM Maven).
I have read awesome things about the Dominions and thought about their 2 pistons, but much like with a Manitou fork, I just stayed with what I know. I couldn't find Putoline anywhere so I ordered Bleedkit dotcom Gold oil and tried it (Vital had a review and said it help their Shimanos) but I noticed no difference at all. Like with most everyone else I noticed it more on the rear and finally just cut my loses. With my 6100s on 2 bikes, it's all good with Shimano oil and it was my fault for not listening to my own freaking advice as the lure and price of the shinny silver parts was just too great. Hopefully Shimano has admitted internally that they have a consistency problem with their current lever design (I've never seen them publicly address it) and fixes it once and for all on the new brakes that I have seen on the World Cup... they look ready for production and I'm betting by next April they will be released!
The Filmore valves are the key - not sure what issues you had with them. Makes using a high volume pump actually practical both in floor pump and hand pump mode if you flat in the field. Doesn't clog, allows you to adjust PSI without removing the cap. I have them on all my 5 wheelsets across 4 bikes. Especially for my wife, using a hand pump to add air in the field is so much easier (and no more unthreading valve cores or cleaning valve cores).
Hey ll88! You are definitely in the majority for riders that have tried the Fillmores and I know lots of people love them. For me, I use an air compressor to seat tires and need to be able to remove the core and I use a Park Tool sealant injector (or old 2oz Stan's bottle) and also need to be able to remove the core. I bought a bag of 30 cores about 7yrs ago for less than $10 and still haven't used even half of them! I'm sure I could get used to the Reserve valves, but for me I just don't have any issues with standard valves and cores.
@ThunderStruckMTB
For the injector, just buy any standard width medical tubing (like the one Orange Seal provide on the ends of their bottles) and it fits over any medical syringe + over the valve to inject. You can also use a Stans little bottle to inject, just cut the tip a couple mm so it's big enough to fit over the Filmore valve. No core removal needed, sealant fills around the plunger from pressure easily.
In addition to the benefits above you no longer need to remove cores then quickly reinstall the core - put air in and it's sealed. You can easily put a $1 Presta to Schrader on if your compressor for some reason doesn't work with Fillmores (can't imagine why it wouldn't, it has the same thread pitch and diameter).
@@lenolenoleno Thanks for the tips! Maybe I'll give em a go on the next tire run and try for myself. I'm assuming I can still use my analog psi gauge to set pressures before every ride? The cap would need to be off for that and then put back on before I ride?
@@ThunderStruckMTB Yes correct, all gauges (I've used ones from SKS, Topeak and Schwalbe) and pumps (used Lezyne screw ons, SKS push ons, Silca push ons) with no issue.
Cap comes off (like you would with a presta valve if you ran a cap) and reinstalled after. It's important to not lose that cap since it locks the plunger in place though if you do, the pressure from inside the tyre ensures stays put.
I liken the valves to when I started MTBing 15 years ago and used my old 260psi track bike pump to inflate MTB tyres. Sure, I never "had a problem with it" and "it worked" but when I got a HV (like a Joe Blow Mountain which maxes at 60psi) or semi-HV (like an SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi which is kind of like a 1.5x air of a standard floor pump) it was so much better for higher volume tyres (pumping about 2-3x less) / just a better tool for the job. It also means I've never had to use a compressor to inflate a MTB tyre for 10+ years and the Filmore Valve makes it even easier/quicker to inflate your tyre.
One last tip on the tubeless front (since I saw your other vid and something that'll make you an even better Tubeless-er). If you manually seat your bead (which takes all of 5 seconds each side of your tyre) you never need a compressor for a MTB tyre ever again. I've tubelessed maybe 300 tyres in the last 5 years and needed to use my little AirShot reservior maybe 10 times and they were all sub 30mm road tyres.
Best demonstration of manually seating I can find on YT: th-cam.com/video/dFhWf00s7G4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=I8F_SMk-Dusz5lmC&t=215
@@lenolenoleno Great stuff! I really appreciate the in depth reply and you're welcome to costar on an episode of TSMTB any time! I will give them a go on Old Greenie most likely and see what I think.... but I am an old dawg, so we'll see! I'm just glad I had another view for my tubeless tutorial! You probably make 11 now...🤣
Yet again another great video. Keep up the good work! Four upgrades that transformed the ride for me when you’re talking about compliance are the new Schwalbe Albert tires paired with Berd Hawk 30x rims, /ODI vanquish grips with 3DO technology and a specialized power pro mirror, 3-D printed saddle I can’t state it enough how comfortable of a ride those parts have made my hard tail riding experience
Also, have you tried the Onyx hubs I pair those with the berd rims, the instant engagement is spectacular!!
Hey 6200! Man, thank you for that, it's very much appreciated! Holy cow you have some nice parts! I have heard amazing things about the Berd wheels and spokes as well as your Spesh 3D power pro saddle and I bet they are both freaking awesome. It's the first I've heard about the ODI Vanquish grips and thanks for the heads up! I did 18 miles this morning and it's so great when you're not miserable just sitting on the bike and that is such an understated thing when talking about component upgrades.... it's always weight, weight, weight it seems. Thanks for adding to the video! 👍
@@block-du9md I have not as I am a card carrying DT 350 fanboy.... heck, I might be the local chapter President!😅 I have heard great things and I bet that silent ride is really something else.
Cool vid. I’m considering the Reserve XC 28 since I don’t ride hard and I’m under 140lbs. Though I wonder if they would be as compliant as the SL you have.
Hey gbrox! Thanks for that! I have never ridden the Reserve XC wheelset, so everything from here out is simply my best guess. Based on my experience with 32 and 28 spoke wheels, I would think that the XC's 24 spoke build would help lend to even more compliance than my SLs. They obviously could've changed the carbon layup in the XC rim, but at least the shape looks the same from the naked eye... Here is what I would do if I were you, I would call Santa Cruz and ask them that question and I bet you would get a firsthand answer as they have always been very helpful for me. If you do pull the trigger on a set I would love to hear your thoughts if you can remember to come on back here! Best of luck whichever way you go.
@@ThunderStruckMTB thanks, that’s a great idea!
The Raygun stray 😂
Hi Arise!! I figured you would like that!🙃 I almost started freaking laughing right then and there, but professionally kept it together somehow. Can't wait to see you and Old Greenie's yours!🤟
Hopefully you got good enough discount because they’re coming with a 350 DEG 90T hubs now. Maybe you got these before Reserve announced that? But if 54T doesn’t make much difference for you it’s not worth worrying about. I find 36T ok. Also there’s no long term on the DEG hubs yet, could have another EXP situation. At least you can trust the 350 Classic. I’m on 350/XM481/EX471, no complaints. UK, so feel have to go custom for brass nipples. Had thought about rebuilding mine with Reserve rims but they only come 28h. So I’d need 3 new DT 350 hubs too. 2x rear and 1x front.
Bike is looking great though, the little red logo just sets it off.
Still haven’t had chance to look at my bearing/headtube. Going to try to make time tomorrow
Hey Justin! Hopefully either SC takes care of you, or you can massage the lower cup/race just a bit with that 2000 grit (and water) sand paper. If you could identify the high spot (guessing it's egg shaped and not just a too small perfectly round hole), you could just hit that with 30-50 passes and I bet you see a difference pretty quickly... I did! You nailed it right on the head with DEG! I had the option for either and I'm perfectly happy with 36T and I was worried about reliability of an unknown as well as noise.. heck, the 54T is already too loud for me compared to the 36T. Your wheelset is awesome and proven to be bullet proof. Let me know what you find with your headtube and if I can help in any other way!
Congrats Darrel . It's nice to have a bit of a roll forward . You have a plan , you execute it and it works out . Bike looks great . Yeah big squishy grips are very helpful for the hands .
@@stevencole7331 Hi Steve! Thanks!! Win streaks are always nice that's for sure.... whether they're on the softball field or the garage😅I suffered a bit of a loss today and am frustrated with my seatpost but we'll see how bad it is.... it was good while it lasted! I smell a new video.🤔
What was the issue with your XTR brakes? Wandering bite point problems?
Hey Hanson! Yep! I tried Bleedkit dotcom Gold oil and every bleed trick I know of with multiple oils and nothing I did fixed it. I should've listened to my own advice, but I never had an XTR component and hoped they would be different, but it was just more of the same for me. My 6100s have plenty of power for me and where I ride and have a consistent feel so all is good now. ... I knew better.😠
Curious what other hardtails you had your eye on if the chameleon didn’t exist 🤔
Hey Chisavu! Great question! While I was waiting for this 2nd Matt Blackout v8 Chameleon I was doing just that as a contingency plan. I looked at everything and it came down to a Sonder Signal Ti or a Neuhaus Solstice or Hummingbird. The Yeti ARC is nice but I really don't want a PF BB. Stanton's bikes are nice but they are a little too enduro for me. I really LOVE the Ibis D9 and is probably the bike I really need if I'm being honest, but I HATE the way it looks.... stupid I know, but it's just the truth.🤓 Also, I've never had a carbon frame before and I'm a little nervous with rock impacts here in the high desert, but that's me just being me. The Cannondale Habit HT and Trek Roscoe are also nice, but again just a little too enduro for me. I've still got my eye on the Ibis DV9 and if they make some changes to the top tube in the next few years I may give one a go as I get older as a 'bridge' to a light weight pedal assist bike in my late 60s... hopefully never, but I think that's just a wish. A long winded answer I know, but I am TS MTB and I do like to talk waaaay too much!! 😅