Very nice machining job. I recently finished a die holder to hold 2" and 1.5" dies. No morse taper just turn to 13mm (1/2") parallel and hold the end in the tailstock chuck. No telescoping part. The holder is once piece rigid. Just fit the die nut rigidly in the other end. Do NOT lock tail stock. Just push the tailstock into the job with the lathe on lowest speed or use the jog button (use plenty of cutting paste). Once the thread is started it will pull the tailstock into the job. Construction material is 4140. I use the same concept when tapping, however I use spiral flute machine taps designed for non-interrupted cutting. No need to stop and reverse the tap to break the swarf.
I thought about doing the same on these die holders... that is, just let the tail stock get pulled in. I ended up making 7 die holder tubes and I leave the dies mounted which is very nice. I seldom use dies elsewhere. My chuck is a ball bearing chuck so it hold well. I've used keyless chuck in the past and had a lot of problems although they were likely worn. I think it was made by Rohm.
See, I told you I would be back seeing what I missed. That vibration can be helped out a lot or gone with a bunch of wide/thick rubber bands Dollar store fix eh. Great post my friend. After this a trip to #2 is in order. Have to keep the comments going eh.
Nicely done. As you have a couple of extra blanks, it might be worth trying the ends that have the slot full length for dies with threads under 1/4". Make the set screws flush. I think even the tube with the slot milled thru would work as it's just in the middle. Maybe with double ended dies mill an opening in the top of the die carrier to empty chips out.
I had to go back and watch your video for the spindle indexer, because I was wondering how many teeth the Gear had. I had always heard that a 60 tooth gear gives you the most combinations for a single gear at 2,3,4,5,6,10,12,15,20,30 I have the gear, and your old video gave me an idea on how to mount it, Thanks. 👍
Another master piece to like it. 😁 I have a die holder that works a similar way except you have a handle to stop it rotating as in the example at the start. As the threads I do are probably 10-12mm max it's not such a bind. I modified an ER16 chuck to fit into the die holder so that I can also use it for taping. The ER collets hold good and tight.
Great project. I'm running some of these soon. I like it! Use the slotted ends for small diameter dies. That way you can shrink the length on the set screws and not worry about them holding.
@@WinkysWorkshop Since you have one bored out full size, you can use that one for smaller machine screw dies (#6,#8...). Not so much torque when threading, and you can cut down the set screws so they clear without worrying about the minimal thread engagement.
@@WinkysWorkshop I actually have 3 shop areas. A 2 car garage that I added a 10 x 20 addition on the back and moved the south side wall out 6 feet. Attached on the north side of the 2 car garage is a one car garage with a wall between the two. And on the back of my house was a 20 x 35 patio that we never used as a patio. So I enclosed it and it is now my wood shop. I have my metal working machines and hotrod building stuff in the front garages. Hurricane Harvey had water over the top of my house. Destroyed everything we owned. That is why I'm rebuilding it. I figured I was too old to build another house, but I guess I had one more in me. Sorry for the long comment...
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks Winky. I like your thinking. It is totally different so I think it is right for us. Outside footprint is the same but I changed everything from the ground up.
Winked, at first I wondered why you had a sliding tube design (thats because I am stupid and not a machinist) What a nice piece of kit. I have some quality dies and almost always deal with metric threads, but my Raglan Littlejohn lathe (based on the Atlas lathe, flat beds) is imperial and a hassle to set the change gears as I don’t have a quick change gear box. That is a project I will think about copying. Many thanks for posting. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Thanks Joe, I'm glad you like this design. Cutting metric on your lathe is doable but not easy. I would consider a new lathe. Some lathes can do both although you can not disengage the half nut on one or the other depending on where the lathe was made. (metric vs imperial lead screw). You have to stop the lathe and reverse the carriage for every pass.
I just realized that I am watching the videos in backwards order -- LAMO huh! I could see how it would be nice to have them double ended, but for us home shop guys our designs are usually dictated by what we have available to us. They came out really nice Mark. It is going to be real nice to just grab the die head that you need without any fidling around.
@@andyZ3500s I'm sure you are not the only one watching in reverse order. I was wondering how to post them so this would not happen but could not figure out how. TH-cam promotes the third video the same as the first one!
I used to think cutting off was harder than a boring job. But I use your cut off design now so that has been tamed. I wish big boring jobs were more boring then they usually turn out to be.
Sigh.. another item gets penciled onto my to do list. That makes 3 of your projects are written down with your channel name next to them. Keep up the good work!
I tried a 1/2 "steel rod bolted to the side of the die holder running back over the tailstock I wanted to use 1/2"-13 die... lots of torque bent the rod maybe 3/4 " stainless other than warping the rod the movement and control was excellent if I get this working I may never single point thread again ......
@@WinkysWorkshop no, I've got a jet mill/drill I need to donate to them though. I've enjoyed your videos for some time now. May I ask what parts are you from?
@@tomeyssen9674 I live about 120 miles north near Bowling Green KY. Contact Billy, he runs the machinist area at KnoxMarkers. th-cam.com/channels/kkS3mS6396xbrUITYvFwyg.html
I made that with a boring bar holder. www.ebay.com/itm/354526034115?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=354526034115&targetid=2299003535995&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014693&poi=&campaignid=21203633013&mkgroupid=162035688435&rlsatarget=aud-1412318123216:pla-2299003535995&abcId=9407526&merchantid=6375864&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtsy1BhD7ARIsAHOi4xbbM4KIHRZVF4LXopfZd4pgYKj6THmgpWEEMSBeqeFD4JR3QoYgGn0aAh7XEALw_wcB
I like your tool post extension. I'm currently building a grinder attachment that works a lot like your tool holder mounted drill chuck. Mine will have a motor on it driving the drill spindle via toothed belt. I'm using an ER11 collet instead of a drill chuck. I was wondering how I'll get enough travel out of my cross slide to get around the side of things. Your extension is what I need.
Cool! I need to do something a bit more robust. The slop in the sleeve bearing tends to let the center drill walk around. It's close enough for most things but it bother me.
@@WinkysWorkshop My shaft to the chuck rides on bearings. It also doesn't slide. I use the cross slide to move it in or out. Since cone bearings don't exist in 1/2" ID, I have 2 sets of radial bearings on either end of the shaft to help with lateral loading. I can use a drill or mill and press against the bearings and be OK since I effectively have 4 radial bearings holding any lateral loading. It seems to work OK so far and there is no slop allowing the cutter to move.
As you know ER32 collets with that bearing nut hold really well. I have one for my tail stock taper. I stopped using a drill chuck for anything since I have a wide selection of collets that will fit most anything. I saw in this video that your 1/2-13 tap was spinning in your drill chuck. I don't have that problem with the collet chuck in my tail stock.
@@WinkysWorkshop ER32 in the common tapers...even including that locking flange...are cheap and easy to find. I've stopped using drill chucks entirely. Want a spare one? LOL!
@@WinkysWorkshop yeah...another issue with drill chucks that you never deal with in a collet. My drill shanks never get chewed if they catch in the material and spin in the chuck. The ER32 collet holds sooo much better and if a drill does spin in one, no damage is done to the drill shank.
Just out of curiosity, why don't you protect your ways when you use sandpaper? I will throw a bedsheet over my lathe if I'm using an angle grinder in the shop.
Setting up that indexer on the lathe seems like so much work that’s going to have to be reversed anyway. It’s so much better to do it on the mill with a Rose Indexer, if you don’t already have a dividing head, or a rotary table
I did... but none of them work as well as the ones I grind. Grinding is a pain but I bought some diamond burrs that help form the tool. It's not so bad now.
@@WinkysWorkshop You wouldn't think Wood we cause such a issue, i suppose unlike Metal Turning, where you're using Metal against Metal, friction doesn't come into play.
They still work great however they really don't need to slide in a tube. When starting the die I just push the tailstock into the rod. Once the die starts it pulls the tail stock. You could make the die tube a little shorter but the tube connected to the taper only needs to be about 1 inch long. Also just mill the slots in the die tube maybe 1-inch long. the dies will move the tail stock. The torque make the tube so it doesn't slide.
As a lifelong machinist, I'm surprised this guy has still got all of his fingers!! Who, in their right mind, reaches in si close towards a milling cutter, running at high rpm!! Absolutely mindless!!!!
Ha... funny. My last name is kind of close to Winky although not super close. I was of a problem solver at work (troubleshooter) and my boss started calling me that. Somebody would ask him a question and he's say, "Go get Winky!" It spread like wild fire. I remember one time a new guy asked me, is Winky your real name? After using the name on my channel my channel for a while I thought about changing it but I also think it's simple and weird enough that people actually remember it.
Unfortunately, the reason you hold on to the handle of the die holder is so that it can be let go when you reach end of thread, But your design has no instant stop ability for shouldered threads, therefore it can crash your machine.
Good point although most die holders I have handles long enough to provide some amount of needed leverage. Depending on how you hold the handle and where your cross slide and compound are you will likely have about 1/4 turn of travel before the handle hits an obstruction. Most often I can get within this 1/4 turn by turning the switch off. Having a firm grip on a handle that is driven by a lathe always made me feel uneasy. I'll take the slight risk of crashing my lathe over pinched hand.
Very nice machining job. I recently finished a die holder to hold 2" and 1.5" dies. No morse taper just turn to 13mm (1/2") parallel and hold the end in the tailstock chuck. No telescoping part. The holder is once piece rigid. Just fit the die nut rigidly in the other end. Do NOT lock tail stock. Just push the tailstock into the job with the lathe on lowest speed or use the jog button (use plenty of cutting paste). Once the thread is started it will pull the tailstock into the job. Construction material is 4140. I use the same concept when tapping, however I use spiral flute machine taps designed for non-interrupted cutting. No need to stop and reverse the tap to break the swarf.
A further note - my tailstock chuck is the keyless type which had high holding power. These can also be tightened further with a C spanner.
I thought about doing the same on these die holders... that is, just let the tail stock get pulled in. I ended up making 7 die holder tubes and I leave the dies mounted which is very nice. I seldom use dies elsewhere. My chuck is a ball bearing chuck so it hold well. I've used keyless chuck in the past and had a lot of problems although they were likely worn. I think it was made by Rohm.
I really like this idea. It's on the ever growing to do list now, lol!
THANK!
See, I told you I would be back seeing what I missed. That vibration can be helped out a lot or gone with a bunch of wide/thick rubber bands Dollar store fix eh. Great post my friend. After this a trip to #2 is in order. Have to keep the comments going eh.
I'm sure that would have made things more quite.
Nicely done.
As you have a couple of extra blanks,
it might be worth trying the ends that have the slot full length for dies with threads under 1/4". Make the set screws flush.
I think even the tube with the slot milled thru would work as it's just in the middle.
Maybe with double ended dies mill an opening in the top of the die carrier to empty chips out.
Might me a good idea... but i just made a few more holders. I have 8 now. Thanks
I had to go back and watch your video for the spindle indexer, because I was wondering how many teeth the Gear had. I had always heard that a 60 tooth gear gives you the most combinations for a single gear at 2,3,4,5,6,10,12,15,20,30 I have the gear, and your old video gave me an idea on how to mount it, Thanks. 👍
Glad I could help! The gear I used was 48. 60 would give you more combinations but all I ever do is 2, 3, and 4. Of course now that I said that...
Lo lo
ESteU
Great job Mark
You could put measuring lines on the barrel as a gage
Hmm... thats a good idea!
That worked out great. 👍🏻 Well done Mark!
Thanks 👍 I use them a lot
Another master piece to like it. 😁
I have a die holder that works a similar way except you have a handle to stop it rotating as in the example at the start. As the threads I do are probably 10-12mm max it's not such a bind.
I modified an ER16 chuck to fit into the die holder so that I can also use it for taping. The ER collets hold good and tight.
Thanks! I love the ER collets. I need to do the same.
Great project. I'm running some of these soon. I like it!
Use the slotted ends for small diameter dies. That way you can shrink the length on the set screws and not worry about them holding.
Thats a good idea, I have one or two smaller dies. Thanks
@@WinkysWorkshop Since you have one bored out full size, you can use that one for smaller machine screw dies (#6,#8...). Not so much torque when threading, and you can cut down the set screws so they clear without worrying about the minimal thread engagement.
@@WinkysWorkshop Meant to say, 1 inch dies that thread smaller stock. Brain is foggy today!
@@stxrynn Another person made the same comment although they suggested using the smaller bore with a smaller die. I have two odd dies like that.
WOOOOW !!! Absolut great Job 👍👍👍 Best wishes from Germany 😀
Thanks!
I sure hope I get my house finished soon. I want to get back to making fun things like this again.... Nice job Winky!
Yeah... I enjoy my shop time. Does the house include a large shop?
@@WinkysWorkshop I actually have 3 shop areas. A 2 car garage that I added a 10 x 20 addition on the back and moved the south side wall out 6 feet. Attached on the north side of the 2 car garage is a one car garage with a wall between the two. And on the back of my house was a 20 x 35 patio that we never used as a patio. So I enclosed it and it is now my wood shop. I have my metal working machines and hotrod building stuff in the front garages. Hurricane Harvey had water over the top of my house. Destroyed everything we owned. That is why I'm rebuilding it. I figured I was too old to build another house, but I guess I had one more in me. Sorry for the long comment...
@@dannywilsher4165 Sorry to hear about Harvey but maybe it's a chance to get it right.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks Winky. I like your thinking. It is totally different so I think it is right for us. Outside footprint is the same but I changed everything from the ground up.
@@dannywilsher4165 Yes... I do think totally different. Mostly without rules. Thanks!
Winked, at first I wondered why you had a sliding tube design (thats because I am stupid and not a machinist) What a nice piece of kit. I have some quality dies and almost always deal with metric threads, but my Raglan Littlejohn lathe (based on the Atlas lathe, flat beds) is imperial and a hassle to set the change gears as I don’t have a quick change gear box. That is a project I will think about copying. Many thanks for posting. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Thanks Joe, I'm glad you like this design. Cutting metric on your lathe is doable but not easy. I would consider a new lathe. Some lathes can do both although you can not disengage the half nut on one or the other depending on where the lathe was made. (metric vs imperial lead screw). You have to stop the lathe and reverse the carriage for every pass.
Lookin good, I was Lazy and Bought one of those tail stock thread die holders , years ago. Later from Texas.
It's all about priorities.
Way to go Winky. Another excellent tool for your collection.
Thanks 👍
Brilliant design. Simple, easy, and effective. Thanks for sharing...you got me hookedto make one of my own.
Cool... so far I love it
That indexer you made for the lathe is great fella.
Thanks! I use it a lot.
I just realized that I am watching the videos in backwards order -- LAMO huh! I could see how it would be nice to have them double ended, but for us home shop guys our designs are usually dictated by what we have available to us. They came out really nice Mark. It is going to be real nice to just grab the die head that you need without any fidling around.
Ha... sorry, I didn;t know how to prevent the backward thing
@@WinkysWorkshop that's alright one would think that well over a half century of living I would be able to figure things like that out by now.
@@andyZ3500s I'm sure you are not the only one watching in reverse order. I was wondering how to post them so this would not happen but could not figure out how. TH-cam promotes the third video the same as the first one!
I used to think cutting off was harder than a boring job. But I use your cut off design now so that has been tamed. I wish big boring jobs were more boring then they usually turn out to be.
So true! Glad the cutoff worked well for you!
Sigh.. another item gets penciled onto my to do list. That makes 3 of your projects are written down with your channel name next to them. Keep up the good work!
Don't worry, I have at least 20 more ideas... ha
Very nice can even add a scale for measuring length "I like it:
Looks. Like ill be making one too.
Thanks Mark. Great video too.
Wow... somebody else said the same. Thanks
I tried a 1/2 "steel rod bolted to the side of the die holder running back over the tailstock I wanted to use 1/2"-13 die... lots of torque bent the rod maybe 3/4 " stainless other than warping the rod the movement and control was excellent if I get this working I may never single point thread again ......
Yeah, I think 1/2" is about the limit for dies on my lathe... lots of torque!
That is a good design...."I like it!" 😊. Thanks...enjoyed. Knoxville.
Are you a part of Knox Makers?
@@WinkysWorkshop no, I've got a jet mill/drill I need to donate to them though. I've enjoyed your videos for some time now. May I ask what parts are you from?
@@tomeyssen9674 I live about 120 miles north near Bowling Green KY. Contact Billy, he runs the machinist area at KnoxMarkers. th-cam.com/channels/kkS3mS6396xbrUITYvFwyg.html
Awesome, 21:21 do you know what that drill chuck tool holder is called? Do they make them for an OXA size (I think the one size down from yours)?
I made that with a boring bar holder. www.ebay.com/itm/354526034115?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=354526034115&targetid=2299003535995&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014693&poi=&campaignid=21203633013&mkgroupid=162035688435&rlsatarget=aud-1412318123216:pla-2299003535995&abcId=9407526&merchantid=6375864&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtsy1BhD7ARIsAHOi4xbbM4KIHRZVF4LXopfZd4pgYKj6THmgpWEEMSBeqeFD4JR3QoYgGn0aAh7XEALw_wcB
@@WinkysWorkshop thank you. Good way to quickly get that perpendicular radius > tangent hole drilled.
Interesting project. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I like your tool post extension. I'm currently building a grinder attachment that works a lot like your tool holder mounted drill chuck. Mine will have a motor on it driving the drill spindle via toothed belt. I'm using an ER11 collet instead of a drill chuck. I was wondering how I'll get enough travel out of my cross slide to get around the side of things. Your extension is what I need.
Cool! I need to do something a bit more robust. The slop in the sleeve bearing tends to let the center drill walk around. It's close enough for most things but it bother me.
@@WinkysWorkshop My shaft to the chuck rides on bearings. It also doesn't slide. I use the cross slide to move it in or out. Since cone bearings don't exist in 1/2" ID, I have 2 sets of radial bearings on either end of the shaft to help with lateral loading. I can use a drill or mill and press against the bearings and be OK since I effectively have 4 radial bearings holding any lateral loading. It seems to work OK so far and there is no slop allowing the cutter to move.
@@de-bodgery - Sound good.
I lay the holder's handle across the compound whether I'm threading by hand or under power, but I like your approach.
Yeah... thats a good idea
I like it also,one of your great ideas…..
Thank you! 😊
Excellent work
Thank you! Cheers!
As you know ER32 collets with that bearing nut hold really well. I have one for my tail stock taper. I stopped using a drill chuck for anything since I have a wide selection of collets that will fit most anything. I saw in this video that your 1/2-13 tap was spinning in your drill chuck. I don't have that problem with the collet chuck in my tail stock.
Very interesting... I have an ER40 but maybe I need to get something smaller for drills! They really are not that expensive.
@@WinkysWorkshop ER32 in the common tapers...even including that locking flange...are cheap and easy to find. I've stopped using drill chucks entirely. Want a spare one? LOL!
@@de-bodgery - This is a very good idea although I need to replace a few scared drills before implementing!
@@WinkysWorkshop yeah...another issue with drill chucks that you never deal with in a collet. My drill shanks never get chewed if they catch in the material and spin in the chuck. The ER32 collet holds sooo much better and if a drill does spin in one, no damage is done to the drill shank.
@@de-bodgery sounds great to me
Boink boink I Like it. That was epic and made me burst laughing. Nice project Mark. I liked it. ;) Gilles
Hey Roger, good to hear from you. Thanks!
Good work ,thank you .
Thanks
Just out of curiosity, why don't you protect your ways when you use sandpaper? I will throw a bedsheet over my lathe if I'm using an angle grinder in the shop.
I probably should do that... generally I clean the ways after sanding but a rag would be a good idea.
Nice Job Mark!
Thanks
Setting up that indexer on the lathe seems like so much work that’s going to have to be reversed anyway. It’s so much better to do it on the mill with a Rose Indexer, if you don’t already have a dividing head, or a rotary table
I made the gear indexer before I had a mill however, I have a mill and rotary table now but in my opinion this is much quicker to set up.
@@WinkysWorkshop really, that’s surprising.
@@melgross Maybe I need more practice :o)
good job bro 👏 👍
Thank you so much 😀
I think I like it too!
Great!
Very neat project. Thank you for sharing
You're welcome, thanks for watching
Your lathe - is that a South Bend? Looks like maybe a 13" or 16"?
It's a 1931 South Bend 11. It's an oddball lathe with a 1-5/8 thread on the spindle but I like it.
Good ♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
Thanks
I like it!! 👍🖖
Thank you! Cheers!
Very cool Winky, did you find some cutters for the Wood Lathe ?
I did... but none of them work as well as the ones I grind. Grinding is a pain but I bought some diamond burrs that help form the tool. It's not so bad now.
@@WinkysWorkshop You wouldn't think Wood we cause such a issue, i suppose unlike Metal Turning, where you're using Metal against Metal, friction doesn't come into play.
@@65cj55 Wood tears if the tool isn't razor sharp
Cool , thanks 👍
No problem 👍
Anything you would change 1yr later?
They still work great however they really don't need to slide in a tube. When starting the die I just push the tailstock into the rod. Once the die starts it pulls the tail stock. You could make the die tube a little shorter but the tube connected to the taper only needs to be about 1 inch long. Also just mill the slots in the die tube maybe 1-inch long. the dies will move the tail stock. The torque make the tube so it doesn't slide.
As a lifelong machinist, I'm surprised this guy has still got all of his fingers!! Who, in their right mind, reaches in si close towards a milling cutter, running at high rpm!! Absolutely mindless!!!!
I had to watch my video again. I was adjusting the air nozzle, it looked much closer that it actually was due to the camera being zoomed.
Made those back in the seventies
I've made several but this is the first I've seen of made that are keyed to the taper.
Va ieși un filet , centrat 👍
Thanks
perfect!!!
I like the hands free aspect, thanks
That's similar to the one's I made, love'um..
Thats cool. I never liked hanging on to the handle
@@WinkysWorkshop I've had a couple bad experiences with the handle, this is a much better option..
@@kentuckytrapper780 I never have but they do scare me!
How did you come up with your channel name?
Mine is the story of my life! LoL 🤣😆
Ha... funny. My last name is kind of close to Winky although not super close. I was of a problem solver at work (troubleshooter) and my boss started calling me that. Somebody would ask him a question and he's say, "Go get Winky!" It spread like wild fire. I remember one time a new guy asked me, is Winky your real name? After using the name on my channel my channel for a while I thought about changing it but I also think it's simple and weird enough that people actually remember it.
@@WinkysWorkshop very fitting!
Unfortunately, the reason you hold on to the handle of the die holder is so that it can be let go when you reach end of thread, But your design has no instant stop ability for shouldered threads, therefore it can crash your machine.
Good point although most die holders I have handles long enough to provide some amount of needed leverage. Depending on how you hold the handle and where your cross slide and compound are you will likely have about 1/4 turn of travel before the handle hits an obstruction. Most often I can get within this 1/4 turn by turning the switch off. Having a firm grip on a handle that is driven by a lathe always made me feel uneasy. I'll take the slight risk of crashing my lathe over pinched hand.
😎 cool
Thanks Don
How's that beautiful lathe doing?
👍😎👍
Thanks!
Sigh... another project to add to the list... ;-)
Go for it! Is the list getting longer?
@@WinkysWorkshop only because life keeps me out of the shop more then I like!
@@crewdawg257 I'm in the shop a lot.... It's kind of like a bigger house or bigger shed, you will fill it up. Ha
next plan boringbar maybe
Maybe so. Mostly need one slightly larger although I hear you can buy solid carbide. Probably high priced!
Badsystem!!!!! no technology!!!!!
huh?