Completely agree with dakotabluelightning - this should be a notice to all YT machinists - I avoid videos with too much post-editing and too much talk to build up time. Congrats Build Fix Create for being informative and not boring or annoying.
Adding it to my list, nice work 👍 The Knurling came out fantastic. New Subscriber, but I will be watching all of your Videos. You explained everything you were doing very well. I’m a hobbiest just getting started, so Videos like yours are great Teaching aides. Your a great Machinist, and Teacher, I’m looking forward to all your Videos. Thanks
Yes. Another new subscriber. No blaring, deafening uncultured irits. Nice work. Know the design but Yours was worth the watch. Maybe we'll just copy and make that. Thanks a zillion for showing and sharing. keep 'em rolling. ATB aRM
This is one of the best instructional videos i have seen.Resulting in a simple but so useful tool.Using various lathe teqniques.so good keep it up and i look forward to the next one.
very well executed, turned out beautiful. I think I'll copy your design it would be cool if you showed how to setup the compound angle with dial indicator to follow the MT2 angle.
Nice, I made one like that 20+ years ago. I sized the other side for larger Dies. I just stuck a 1/2" rod in Chuck in tail stock. The MT mount is better idea. I added a 3/8" cross hole for lever arm. Negative I had was chips in the 1/2 hole, have to run a reamer down it now and again. Your tool is much prettier, you did good with that crap knurl tool. Buy some of the Irwin tap jaws and grind a flat on one side for a 1/4-20 grub screw. Make same handle and mount one of these on either side. Makes a nice set.
That was awesome. Gonna have to build one of these for the threading work I do with my lathe from time to time. Getting tired of trying to keep it straight by hand all the time. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for a very nice contribution. I plan to make one with a small modification. I want to make it easier to stop the die holder from rotating when cutting larger diameters and/or harder materials (as I sometimes need to do). It might be a milled hex for use of a wrench at the back end, milled using a hexagonal 5C collet. Your design is very nice in that you can simply let go if something happens, or if you want to stop threading quickly. My wrench modification will need to use a wrench that is short enough to avoid hitting the lathe’s ways if you let go. Thank you.
Nice work. Just a couple of observations, not criticism. Many dies come in round, but many are hex. Put a hex pocket in the other end. I did that a long time ago. If you don’t have a way to mill a hex into the end, visit a pawn shop and buy the appropriate size socket. Turn the end to accept the socket, cut off a length of socket and press it in. Drill through the holder and socket to place a retaining screw. You will want to use either a very high quality steel drill, or carbide. Also don’t try to tap the socket with a cheap big box store tap. The other observation is, it is not necessary to turn the rod the holder spins on. Drill rod is already a very close size and very good finish. On my 12 x 36 lathe, I have plenty of travel. The rod fits well in the tail stock chuck. However on the toy lathe, there is not enough room to just use the tail stock chuck. Not to worry, I just turned a 2MT on a short length of stock and bored that out enough to press it onto some 1/2” drill rod. Now I can use the holder on either lathe, with either round or hex dies. Another advantage, should it be needed, is one can buy 2MT, and 3MT blanks commercially made. You just need to bore out for the drill rod. Don’t worry, they have a straight section for just that purpose.
I really like that 4 way X 45 degree chamfering tool bit. Would you be able to supply a link to purchase one, or did you make it yourself. Pretty nifty either way. Subscribed!
Great video! I like this die holder a lot and want to make one. I would have really like to see how you set up the dial indicator into the tailstock to set up the tool holder. Great work, thank you!
Thank you! I used a test indicator inside the taper. Probably only let me measure along a half inch or maybe 3/4" but it was enough to get the compound adjusted. I will try to show this sometime in a future video.
You might want to cut a small relief in the corner of the die socket so that the die bottoms on the shoulder every time. If you don't and you get a square edged die it will not bottom properly and tend to wobble.
Not the best knurling tool in the world, admitted but during my apprenticeship in the 1960s, I was taught to set the knurling tool slightly off perpendicular, so that it is cutting more on the front (left hand) edge and running the tool repeatedly over the work piece until an exact diamond pattern is achieved. By using this method, I have achieved some stunning knurled diamond effects, not only in Aluminium but in mild steel and tool steel, too, even in Silver Steel (USA - drill rod).
Very nice as always.,, am planing to make one tomorrow but I going try making keyway slut and use key way to work itself without grabbing by hand and also I am going to make wide sluts to release the chips out instead of sticking inside the diy. Thanks for sharing
Nicely done, two suggestions that may help you in the future, try to keep your tool stick out as short as you can, when you use a reamer it's thought best to drill under size like you did but run a boring bar through before the reamer just to true the hole up as drills don't leave a round hole, I noticed the hole was running out as you put the reamer through, good job though and it's looks the part also, I made one very similar but turned the bar and morse taper between centres, I'm not a critic just trying to help. Regards Alan.
Alan, thanks for the suggestions! I am just a hobbyist, constantly learning - so i will always listen to what others have to say. I absolutely agree, it would have been best to have bored that hole I just don't have a bar that is 5+ inches long that can fit through a half inch hole. Thanks for watching!
I've never tried cutting a morse taper, my drill chuck tends to live in the tailstop so I'm thinking of keeping that bar round, I can just place it in the chuck then.
Yeah, if I had a long thin boring bar I would have used that. But even being a little off center it is still much nicer than trying to hold a normal die handle up there and keep it somewhat straight. Thanks for watching!
Wow! Fantastic Video! Liked & Subbed! I learned quite a bit! I have GOT to get a Metal Lathe! I have a Wood Lathe but my Life won’t be complete until I make the Jump to a Metal Lathe!..LOL! Have A Super Week!.....Gus
Is that a bought forming tool, or did you grind that yourself. Very good. Use lots of oil whenever knurling, makes great knurled, wd 40 ok but tap magic is best. I used a wide scraper, then used a pantagraph, put my name on it. Make some brass thumb screws, I'm really liking your style. Very nice VIDEO, NARRATED VERY WELL. I'M SO GLAD TO SEE YOUTH DOING THESE VIDEOS. 5 ☆☆☆☆☆. I LOVE TOO WATCH OTHERS AS THEY APPROACH DIFFERENT WAYS TOO DO MACHINIST WORK, ANYWAY THAT GETS THE JOB DONE AS MR PETE 222 ALWAYS SAYS.🤠
Wonderful instructional video! Thank you! I do have a question as I have a Logan (Powr-Kraft) lathe I just bought last Fall. Previous owner (died 40 years ago) had wired for reverse. When I rewired I did some research and found due to chuck mounting on threads on these smaller lathes reverse is not recommended due the possibility of chuck unscrewing and falling off. At very slow speeds potentially not an issue, but I decided not to tempt myself and although lost a little functionality wired it for the one direction only. Even a small chuck coming off at high speed could do severe people or machine damage. Is there a way to be able to safely mount a chuck on these screw on type lathes to run in reverse safely? There will be no agreement as to right or wrong running these in reverse, but was curious on your and your followers thoughts.
I've seen suggestions to use a live or dead center in the locked down tailstock to hold the work against the chuck (in addition to the jaws) while running in reverse. Haven't tried it myself but it sounds legit.
Thank you! The chuck came with my mill when I bought it, so I'm not sure if they are still available or not. This is what it says on it: "American Mach & Foundry Co. Wahlstrom chuck 28-93" It's pretty handy for repetitive drilling ops without shutting off the mill.
Interesting project, I can see how useful it would be. I did notice that at around 2:42 and 4:58 the bores were not running concentrically. I have noticed abom79 always indicates the tailstock end of an unsupported work untill it was running true along the whole length. Probably not necessary for this project? Oh, and that squeak would drive me mad!
Yeah drill bits tend to wander over long distances. I would recommend drilling undersize and boring to size if you have a boring bar that would fit. I don't have one that long and thin. For this project its still a huge improvement over using a normal die holder handle. Haha, the squeak comes and goes, its the side of the belt rubbing one of the pulleys - I fix it occasionally by scuffing up the side of the belt. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Absolutely great video. No music and no 10 minute intro. To the point and very well presented. New subscriber.
Thanks you!
Yes it was, he was very good.
Vol ,?
Completely agree with dakotabluelightning - this should be a notice to all YT machinists - I avoid videos with too much post-editing and too much talk to build up time.
Congrats Build Fix Create for being informative and not boring or annoying.
Those little die holders can save a lot of time and they are a great addition to any home machine shop. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
My friend, you have no idea how much time and $$ your video just saved me. Never occured to me to just make the thing. Thank you.
You could make a video on just the chamfering tool you used here and it would be very popular. Like your style! New sub here.
I would suggest putting a pocket at the other end for different size dies. I will be making one for mine soon as my shop heater is installed.
Great video. Those knurls turned out really nice too! This is on my project list as soon as I get my lathe refurbed!
Adding it to my list, nice work 👍 The Knurling came out fantastic. New Subscriber, but I will be watching all of your Videos. You explained everything you were doing very well. I’m a hobbiest just getting started, so Videos like yours are great Teaching aides. Your a great Machinist, and Teacher, I’m looking forward to all your Videos. Thanks
Yes. Another new subscriber. No blaring, deafening uncultured irits. Nice work. Know the design but Yours was worth the watch.
Maybe we'll just copy and make that. Thanks a zillion for showing and sharing. keep 'em rolling.
ATB
aRM
Thanks for the comment and for watching!
This is one of the best instructional videos i have seen.Resulting in a simple but so useful tool.Using various lathe teqniques.so good keep it up and i look forward to the next one.
Thank you!
very well executed, turned out beautiful. I think I'll copy your design
it would be cool if you showed how to setup the compound angle with dial indicator to follow the MT2 angle.
Nice knurl. Also an interesting drill chuck on your mill. A tailstock die holder is on my to do list. Keep the projects coming 👍
Thanks Craig! Its a Wahlstrom chuck. Pretty nice for repetitive work because you can open and close it while the machine stays running.
Yes, really nice 'grippy' knurl job. Looks nice too.
That's very interesting. I would love to make one of those. Great video.
Nice, I made one like that 20+ years ago. I sized the other side for larger Dies. I just stuck a 1/2" rod in Chuck in tail stock.
The MT mount is better idea. I added a 3/8" cross hole for lever arm. Negative I had was chips in the 1/2 hole, have to run a reamer down it now and again. Your tool is much prettier, you did good with that crap knurl tool.
Buy some of the Irwin tap jaws and grind a flat on one side for a 1/4-20 grub screw. Make same handle and mount one of these on either side. Makes a nice set.
Great work, no bullshit. You should market those die holders.
That was awesome. Gonna have to build one of these for the threading work I do with my lathe from time to time. Getting tired of trying to keep it straight by hand all the time. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for a very nice contribution. I plan to make one with a small modification. I want to make it easier to stop the die holder from rotating when cutting larger diameters and/or harder materials (as I sometimes need to do). It might be a milled hex for use of a wrench at the back end, milled using a hexagonal 5C collet. Your design is very nice in that you can simply let go if something happens, or if you want to stop threading quickly. My wrench modification will need to use a wrench that is short enough to avoid hitting the lathe’s ways if you let go. Thank you.
Sweeping the taper with an indicator to set the compound is really, really cool.
Just what I need to see. Wanted to make one but your video makes it so much easier for me. "Thanks
Very very nice job. You make it look too easy.
Beautiful trick having an inner and outer chamfer cutter built into the side of that tool, chuck side too.
Thanks for watching!
yes that is what caught my eye neat trick
great ... probaly the best DIY die holder ive seen... very neat
Great video! Watched it for the 2nd time. Waiting for your next video.... 😀
Nice work. Just a couple of observations, not criticism. Many dies come in round, but many are hex. Put a hex pocket in the other end. I did that a long time ago. If you don’t have a way to mill a hex into the end, visit a pawn shop and buy the appropriate size socket. Turn the end to accept the socket, cut off a length of socket and press it in. Drill through the holder and socket to place a retaining screw. You will want to use either a very high quality steel drill, or carbide. Also don’t try to tap the socket with a cheap big box store tap.
The other observation is, it is not necessary to turn the rod the holder spins on. Drill rod is already a very close size and very good finish. On my 12 x 36 lathe, I have plenty of travel. The rod fits well in the tail stock chuck. However on the toy lathe, there is not enough room to just use the tail stock chuck. Not to worry, I just turned a 2MT on a short length of stock and bored that out enough to press it onto some 1/2” drill rod. Now I can use the holder on either lathe, with either round or hex dies. Another advantage, should it be needed, is one can buy 2MT, and 3MT blanks commercially made. You just need to bore out for the drill rod. Don’t worry, they have a straight section for just that purpose.
Excellent video very informative. Many thanks for sharing
Morse taper chart @ 12:43 is a keeper! Thanks! Subbed
Very nice and informative. The taper setup explanation was rather quick and could use more detail, but other than that, really nice vid. Thank you.
Nice job and I really like that drill chuck in your milling machine. Never seen one like that. What is the brand/name of it please.
Very smart and great idea 👍✌️
That's about as good a knurl job as I've seen. Great video, thanks.
I really like that 4 way X 45 degree chamfering tool bit. Would you be able to supply a link to purchase one, or did you make it yourself. Pretty nifty either way. Subscribed!
I think i will make one great for small work Thanks JM
Thank you for sharing, good job, and nice video thank you, and have a nice day from the distance.
Awesome attachment very good job designing & building it. Could you use an air spring (like on a hatchback car trunk door?)
Question, what type of quick release chuck are you using in the drill/mill?
Great machining and very well annotated
Very nice job looks great.
Great work. Learned a lot by watching this video.
Great video! I like this die holder a lot and want to make one. I would have really like to see how you set up the dial indicator into the tailstock to set up the tool holder. Great work, thank you!
Thank you! I used a test indicator inside the taper. Probably only let me measure along a half inch or maybe 3/4" but it was enough to get the compound adjusted. I will try to show this sometime in a future video.
Very nice job. Very handy as well! Tom
Now that is a clever idea. Well done
Thank you!
looks and works great, Nice job!
You might want to cut a small relief in the corner of the die socket so that the die bottoms on the shoulder every time. If you don't and you get a square edged die it will not bottom properly and tend to wobble.
Nurly man!! never that type die holder before thats awsome, nice video!!
Thanks!
Good video, excellent explanations, good job, thank you for
sharing, have a good day.
I like this idea. so simple!
Not the best knurling tool in the world, admitted but during my apprenticeship in the 1960s, I was taught to set the knurling tool slightly off perpendicular, so that it is cutting more on the front (left hand) edge and running the tool repeatedly over the work piece until an exact diamond pattern is achieved.
By using this method, I have achieved some stunning knurled diamond effects, not only in Aluminium but in mild steel and tool steel, too, even in Silver Steel (USA - drill rod).
Interesting - I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!
Great job nice work brother
Great video.
Nice work !
Good job~ what kind of material do you use?
Pomysłowy przyrząd do gwintowania
Very nice as always.,, am planing to make one tomorrow but I going try making keyway slut and use key way to work itself without grabbing by hand and also I am going to make wide sluts to release the chips out instead of sticking inside the diy. Thanks for sharing
Awesome idea! Now I have to go make one! 😄
Cool looking knurling! Thanks for sharing
Nicely done, two suggestions that may help you in the future, try to keep your tool stick out as short as you can, when you use a reamer it's thought best to drill under size like you did but run a boring bar through before the reamer just to true the hole up as drills don't leave a round hole, I noticed the hole was running out as you put the reamer through, good job though and it's looks the part also, I made one very similar but turned the bar and morse taper between centres, I'm not a critic just trying to help.
Regards Alan.
Alan, thanks for the suggestions! I am just a hobbyist, constantly learning - so i will always listen to what others have to say. I absolutely agree, it would have been best to have bored that hole I just don't have a bar that is 5+ inches long that can fit through a half inch hole. Thanks for watching!
👍👍 I am new to turning -thank you for a very easy to u understand video.
I've never tried cutting a morse taper, my drill chuck tends to live in the tailstop so I'm thinking of keeping that bar round, I can just place it in the chuck then.
it is called a wahlstrom fully automatic drill chuck starting at $300 a bit pricy for me at :
Penntool co. good luck kind regards Hans
Nice work
good knurling!
nice i was making this already 25 years ago but still good
Nice simple video and design. Like it, subscribed in hopes of continued clean work
Love it, I am building this yesterday
Great job man, awesome
Pretty cool! I'm going to make one.
Thanks for this Video. That‘s a very nice piece of work. Subscribed!!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!!
FYI...Knurling is a forming operation not a cutting operation. It pushes the metal it doesn't cut it.
Very nice. Well done.
We love it, use the same concept.
That squeek needs finding and greasing!!! New sub
Haha its the side of a belt squeaking. I fix it occasionally by scuffing up the side of it. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Thank you for this cool tool.
nice work
Nice, I am surprised it was centered in the end because when you drilled that hole and was about to make a pocket the hole was clearly off center.
Yeah, if I had a long thin boring bar I would have used that. But even being a little off center it is still much nicer than trying to hold a normal die handle up there and keep it somewhat straight. Thanks for watching!
Very nice job
Wow! Fantastic Video! Liked & Subbed! I learned quite a bit! I have GOT to get a Metal Lathe! I have a Wood Lathe but my Life won’t be complete until I make the Jump to a Metal Lathe!..LOL! Have A Super Week!.....Gus
Thanks Gus! I like the freehand-ness of a wood lathe, but you can make some cool things on a metal lathe as well
A brilliant tool. I guess it only fit one diameter die.
Is that a bought forming tool, or did you grind that yourself. Very good. Use lots of oil whenever knurling, makes great knurled, wd 40 ok but tap magic is best. I used a wide scraper, then used a pantagraph, put my name on it. Make some brass thumb screws, I'm really liking your style. Very nice VIDEO, NARRATED VERY WELL. I'M SO GLAD TO SEE YOUTH DOING THESE VIDEOS. 5 ☆☆☆☆☆. I LOVE TOO WATCH OTHERS AS THEY APPROACH DIFFERENT WAYS TOO DO MACHINIST WORK, ANYWAY THAT GETS THE JOB DONE AS MR PETE 222 ALWAYS SAYS.🤠
I grind all my hss tools myself. Thanks for watching and for the nice comment!
very very cool!👌🏼
Who makes or kind of chuck that your using
That was awesome and clever
very nice kudos
Love it. Going to make one for myself.
Hi. When are you going to make some more videos? I really enjoy them.
Wondefull vid I am going to check out more.
Beautiful work!
Thank you! I've enjoyed following your journey to journeyman series
Thank you Sir!
always run the lathe in back gear when knurling
Very nice. I'll make on some day
Thank you!
fun design. love it
Who would give this a thumbs down?
Wonderful instructional video! Thank you! I do have a question as I have a Logan (Powr-Kraft) lathe I just bought last Fall. Previous owner (died 40 years ago) had wired for reverse. When I rewired I did some research and found due to chuck mounting on threads on these smaller lathes reverse is not recommended due the possibility of chuck unscrewing and falling off. At very slow speeds potentially not an issue, but I decided not to tempt myself and although lost a little functionality wired it for the one direction only. Even a small chuck coming off at high speed could do severe people or machine damage. Is there a way to be able to safely mount a chuck on these screw on type lathes to run in reverse safely? There will be no agreement as to right or wrong running these in reverse, but was curious on your and your followers thoughts.
I've seen suggestions to use a live or dead center in the locked down tailstock to hold the work against the chuck (in addition to the jaws) while running in reverse. Haven't tried it myself but it sounds legit.
Well this is Great. So Nice I subscribed. Simple and effective.
Thank you!
im late, what a beauty, nice job
Welp I'm making one of these for the shop
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Nice you solved a problem for me.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Great video as always, focussed on the matter. Very efficient instructional. There are several WD40, which is the one you are using?
very nice,i love that drill chuck.can you tell me what make,model etc..
Thank you! The chuck came with my mill when I bought it, so I'm not sure if they are still available or not. This is what it says on it: "American Mach & Foundry Co. Wahlstrom chuck 28-93" It's pretty handy for repetitive drilling ops without shutting off the mill.
Interesting project, I can see how useful it would be. I did notice that at around 2:42 and 4:58 the bores were not running concentrically. I have noticed abom79 always indicates the tailstock end of an unsupported work untill it was running true along the whole length. Probably not necessary for this project? Oh, and that squeak would drive me mad!
Yeah drill bits tend to wander over long distances. I would recommend drilling undersize and boring to size if you have a boring bar that would fit. I don't have one that long and thin. For this project its still a huge improvement over using a normal die holder handle. Haha, the squeak comes and goes, its the side of the belt rubbing one of the pulleys - I fix it occasionally by scuffing up the side of the belt. Thanks for watching and commenting!
nice job, thank you , learned perfect.
Thanks for watching!
Splendid. Thanks.