Slotting/Shaper Attachment for a Kearney & Trecker Horizontal Milling Machine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Slotting/Shaper Attachment for a Kearney & Trecker Horizontal Milling Machine
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Hi Keith, your chain on the engine hoist should hang vertically on the bolt rather than out the front, there is a slot to put a link in to hang off the bolt. Probably doesn’t matter for light stuff but on heavier things the bending of the link is not how the chain is supposed to be loaded. Good video as always!
He may of needed the extra inch of lift or reach for something. Definitely done it my self.
I had a slotting attachment on a Lagun mill years ago and made custom parts that needed square holes and slots and loved it.
I was an apprentice tool and die maker back in 1963-1968 and used a variety of machines of this era (milling, grinding, lathes, shapers etc..) This vid brought back memories of my youth. Many thanks.
You need a L shaped bracket in place of your eye bolt with a little offset to the front to balance the shaper attachment to get it to hang plumb. Very cool.
Your engine crane reminded me of a trip to my local home center. The were stocking casters, so I asked if they knew what kind of oil was used to lubricate them. They weren't sure, so I told them castor oil. The one associate said, "I should have seen that one coming."
🤣🤣👌
Castor oil, lol, they should have known that, LMFAO......
Thank god somebody is saving some of this old iron from the scrap yard. Pretty neat machine, I was pretty sure it was going to stroke both directions at the same speed. Right impressed that its faster on the return stroke. Maybe you could show us how that works some day.. I remember seeing Abom's shaper innards and seeing the mechanism. Fascinating how they did all that stuff mechanically back then. Being "young" in my 40s, I think of all that pre-WW2/WW1 stuff to be like cavemen hitting 2 rocks together but they made some really amazing stuff back then.
Had one on a Bridgeport at a plant where I worked. Older guy I worked with always called it a “jumping jack”.
That is very cool! I'm amazed at how well simple green cleaned that thing. I will never have a machine shop because I don't have the room or the knowledge to do it, but I love watching your videos Keith!
Simple green is an amazing product.
In every shop I worked in in my 50 years, the slotting head was relegated to sitting in a dark corner collecting dust and spider webs. A minute man broach takes care of 99.9% of keyways. I did use a slotting head on one occasion to re-cut a few teeth on a gear, which was set up with the hub centerline perpendicular to the mill table, in a dividing head. That worked out well.
Keep up the nice videos.
I enjoy your videos, Keith. When I'm installing the vertical slotting head on my mill I find that, along with a hoist, resting the head on a fitted wood stand supported by the table helps a lot with alignment. Up/down, in/out (Z+/Z-), Left/Right can all be done to very fine, controlled movements. Just a thought. Cheers.
Keith, you might be interested in a lathe that Kurtis at Cutting Edge Engineering discussed today. Today's video was part 2. It appears that the chuck is about 36" and it has a huge bed. It's Asian made, but I think it will do well for his needs.
Thanks for the video today.
Kurtis has such a lot of work invested in that lathe! Glad it's come "around the bend" so to speak and it's ready to make some chips, add some tech to it, and of course a nice bright lamp to help make our videos.
@@flat-earther did he block you because you were leaving comments like this one?
This would also come in handy for cutting internal splines (which is essentially a bunch of internal key ways)
doesnt look like there is much of a stroke to it.
@@metalworksmachineshop Nope. Not much at all.
Good to see you are feeling better, Keith.
If you push the clutch lever all the way toward disengage, it will lock the spindle to hold it for tightening or loosening the draw bar, at least on my 2h and 2hl anyhow...Mike in Louisiana
Keith, I hope we can see that Shaper attachment in action. Very cool find.
Don't hold your breath!
I was remembering the 70’s , I worked for Wells Index, Three Rivers Michigan. Worked in special assembly, where we did all the electrical and installation of computer on the mills. I enjoy your channel.
At 9:05 - getting the attachment onto the overarms. A couple of ideas. 1) ignore the current lift point and use a strap near the balance point of the attachment or 2) How about machining a plate that bolts onto the current lift point with holes towards the front of the attachment that moves the lift point forward? It would take some trial and error to get #2 right (or machine a slot). My $0.02.
Just as a comment, CRUD is a specific technical term in nuclear engineering. The first commercial nuclear power plant was at Chalk River, Ontario. In 1947 metallic oxide deposits were noted in the coolant system, but what the specific deposits were couldn't be determined. These deposits were originally called Chalk River Unidentified Deposits or CRUD. Of course what the deposits were was figured out, but CRUD is still used as the name for that type of deposit.
Very cool Keith. Thank you again for the tour of your shop last Sunday. What you have assembled is truly remarkable. Please keep the videos coming. :)
Thanks Keith, now I know my slotting head for my 3KC should work and how the drive for it will look when I build it. I don't think mine has ever been used. The over spray in the over arm holes doesn't even have a mark in the paint.
I wish I could apprentice for Kieth. He's got all the cool old machines that everyone wants and he restores them right to I'm really envious and glad he takes the time to give us this great content thank you Kieth..
Another nice video- an interesting piece of equipment. I suspect that you will make a bracket, second attachment point, or sling arrangement that will let you easily lift that level that for mounting. I hope that you show it to us when you do!
Machines such as this were often part of the kit on ships, to be on hand for emergency repairs and fabrication out at sea.
They are similar to the woodworkers tool "Shopsmith ".
Glad to see you are learning to use lubricating oil a little more.
Moving machinery likes oil!
JIM
It would be cool to build a little boom crane that extends out and over from the rear of the mill, (And held down by the weight of the mill) so you could pick up or remove an attachment and beam trolley it into or out of position.
oo!
you gotta "pull it apart and service it"... just so we can see the internals ;)
from that motion, as pointed out at 15:30, looks like its got the proper whitworth quick return linkage... seems unusual for most of these bolt on attachments. yes, the standard for a dedicated shaper/slotter/planer...
Love big boy toys!!!
That is a great find. If you have more than just the 1 mill (which you do) you can set it up and leave it awhile. If that were my only mill, I'd need to have a really good reason to go through all that for 1 key way! (Lol) That attachment makes a horizontal mill just that much more useful. Hope to see you put it to good use soon!
In order for any attachments to be useful they must be ready and easy to utilize. I liked the attachment lift that Adam Booth built for his mill. It parks the attachment out of the way on the right side of the machine. It looks like off-setting the lifting eye would be well worth doing, to make it lift in a level way. Cleaning and stoning the over-arm supports and using Dykem blue on the interference fit parts would be useful to see. If there are multiple attachments maybe a place on the wall nearby at about the right height would be best. That way you can grab it with the lift and get it to the machine in the most efficient manner. I wonder if the head was loosened up on the head rotation, if it would have made it easier to align it with the drive pin. But then you'd have to tram it up again, but that would be useful to see as well. Obviously this was not a good demonstration of how this attachment was supposed to have been installed.
I hazard that if the attachment had been thoroughly cleaned off and fully lubed before attempting to fit on to the overheads and internal pin, then it would have slid on like a dream. I know you were really impatient to get it going but - "more haste less speed". But we do like to see you struggle sometimes - it proves you're (super)human!
Great video. Here's a tip: put a glob of grease on the pin. If the hole is not perfectly aligned, the grease will be squashed in the direction the hole has to be moved, up, down, left, right. Just be sure to move the grease back over the pin between attempts.
Wow I really enjoyed this video never seen this attachment for the Milwaukee’s only in old books about these machince
Kieth, for alignment set to your highest gear and turn the drawbar to clock the drive pin.
I have never seen one of these on a horizontal. Nice find and this would for sure have more power than a bridgeport shaper.
The Bridgeport style shapers have a lot more maneuverability. Not that you cut slots on compound angles very often or that you couldn't just figure the work to get the angle on this
Hi Keith, this episode you showed us more of your tenacious perseverance and givin' your machines some lovin'! Glad this shaper attachment is in your shop running and is ready for creating some machinery magic. I bet those casters could benefit from some lubricant! I remember the old school casters with wheels that were purposely built to run at an angle and made from steel. Sometimes they made a little scrape sound but always went around in the end. I think the angle was built into them so the ball bearings could be larger with matching races. As opposed to having larger wheels (more expensive and requiring more shop space.)
Versatility is always a good thing. Thanks for the video, Keith. Jon
In my olden days we had several setup in horizontal positioning for shaft work.
Very powerful and stable setup.
Thanks Mr. Rucker.
Nice video never saw that attachment. Reminds me of the slotter I ran way back in day
Keith, how about making a wooden cradle to put on the bed of the mill, place the head in the cradle and then adjust the bed to get the head lined up with the arms.
I was going to say it would probably be easier to block it off the table and use the knee to raise the slotter into place than have it dangling way out of plumb.
I made a bracket to lock my spindle to the quill so I could broach key ways.
It works very well but your attachment would make it far easier. It could be used to square out corners in the right application .
8:00 This is exactly the sort of things I want to see - horizontal milling machines doing something mine doesn't !
You not missing much, the slotting attachment was a after thought and very limited to what it can do.
Slotting heads are just a fantastic tool/accessorie 👍💪☺️
Thank you so much for that! I have never seen that optional tool in place on the K&T!
New lead hammer!
Not the first time I have seen one of these
Keith Fenner has a video(series maybe) on cutting internal splines with a very similar unit
Hopefully you are feeling better Keith
14:10 Cleaning paint won't affect the operation of the attachment. Putting grease in the grease cup, screwing that cup empty, and refilling a couple of times - to get fresh grease to the shaft and adding oil to theoil cup for the 'vertical oscillator' ( ;) ) / ram, will help the unit work !
To make installing the slotter easier, you may want to move your lifting point lower and closer to the center of gravity. To do so, you will need to make a simple bolt on bracket. By picking where you did, you are fighting the engine hoist.
Thanks for sharing! Very impressive pice of kit from your mill !!
Thanks for sharing your instructive and interesting story
I learn something from each of your vids. Thank You
With this slotting unit, you could make the six point adapter for your other machine device for making spiral gears.
Two questions, One, how do you tram that head dead nuts in to make sure your keyway is square to the work piece on all sides (or gear for a internal keyway) Two, how do you remove that center drive dog off the main drive of the mill when switching back to a arbor shaft or universal head? I know remove the 4 cap head bolts, but how do you get that drive dog off the mill as it's a pretty tight fit on there and you don't want to damage the face on the mill with a pair of wedges behind it. I have used the ones on the back of a Bridgeport, but not on a number 2 to 5 Horizonal K/T or Cincinnati (didn't even know they made one for that big a machine. P/S Big Horizontals are my favorite machines to run as many people hate them
You clean and fit it so that it slides on in the beginning, then you don't have to worry about getting it off.
It's a great find Keith - I want one ! Not for a K&T though !
I just found one for my bridgeport! Handy to have!
I traded for one a few months ago. Its installed a ready, just waiting on that "gotta have it" job to come up. I have 2 smaller shapers that get a lot of light duty use.
Looks like you are at the point where you could use a baby towmotor, Brother Kieth. My shop is less that half the size of yours and I'd be lost without our little 4000 Lb Yale. - We are too old to be lifting the stuff we used to. 😋
Fantastic glad everything turned out well and it works great thanks for sharing Keith
Glad to see a new device. Thanks.
Such a bear to put on the mill that you almost need a dedicated machine. I guess you would get used to installing and it wouldn't be such a big fight. Sure is handy when you need it!
This machine needs patience for sure.
@@eaglewi I wonder if that's why there aren't that many of them out there... too painful to get popular!
Thanks Keith 🌲🎁👍
Thats a neat find.
Would it make sense to extend the overarm supports way out so that your engine hoist can reach better? Then you just bring the shaper head to the drive gear by retracting the supports.
And do so one arm at a time to aid in alignment. I don't know why he didn't think of that as I've seen hime do just that to put the overarm support in place.
GREAT VIDEO, PET THE CATS AND DOGS, SEE YOU NEXT TIME...
This may be a dumb question, but wouldn't it help to rub some lubricating oil on the pin coupler adapter at 06:00 before you hammer it into place? Why make it more difficult to remove later? Ditto at 10:00 - clean & lube the overarm holes in the slotter?
Keith stick a riser block under the hydraulic ram and you can get more height.
Looks like Keith recast his lead hammer!
Thanks for sharing.
So can you adjust the stroke?
Nice Find Keith and works really well!
Interesting session Keith, thanks.
That's alsome Keith, I need to find the attachments for my k&t model k universal #2. Great video, keep'um coming.
It's not like you would want to change that attachment very often :D
*- Does rust's iron oxide in the patina you favor act as a grease or a grit to wear in/on the metal?*
*- Am I wrong, does the patina make the parts stick when you are trying to fit things together?*
Thanks for sharing 👍
Hiya Keith
That sliding pin arrangement to s called a "scotch yoke" Keith...
🇬🇧🙂
one possible video is building an offset lifting fixture so it can hang level.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
Looks good Keith enjoy
When you said that is was moving faster up then down, I did not believe you, so I stopped the video and played it back frame by frame. 5 frames up - 9 frames down. So, you were 100% right in that it was moving slower down then up. I would love to know how they accomplished that with that simple slide mechanisms - my tiny brain just can see any way to convert a smooth circular motion into a two speed sliding motion. Maybe some day, you can take a few minutes and explain that.
See this tubalcain video: th-cam.com/video/Jx5nOn0tf_k/w-d-xo.html where he covers the shaper mechanism.
Long story short: it's built on an eccentric - downstroke is closer to the center of rotation, upstroke is farther. Big shapers and his planer work on the same principle.
Id bet 20 cents that the original sales brochure said something like "easy 10 minute one man changeover"
When you were tearing the univ head off and you whacked the drawbar, a cloud of dust or grit came out. What do you reckon that was?
That's an interesting attachment. Might be a bit of work if you don't have many parts to make.
They don't give you a lot of stroke with that attachment but enough to do many hub jobs.
Mr K I think you need to make your self a bracket to hold it in a moor level plain so as to make it a bit easer on you self
Good Job
I noticed the slotting ram seem to retract faster than going forward(down). Mr Pete222 mentioned that his shaper does that but i dont understand the mechanism behind it. Would it be possible to make a video discussing the detail on how it moves the ram.
Keith instead of the enjoy hoist I’ll just come live in your shop like Quasimodo and you can call on me to lift anything you need.
Are we going to see this used to cut internal splines?
Great attachment!! :)
Hello Keith, wondering if you made a longer alignment pin that would fit over the pin on the head and turned down to the size of the hole on the drive, if that would make installation easier. After the pin and hole are aligned then back out and remove it.
Watching you put that attachment on . Brrr .Mechanics and machinest are two different people . You could of smashed your fingers . Precision pins have to go on straight . I'm a mechanic that works with machinists. For fourty years . Sorry but true . I work on giant stuff and small to and know how things fit with a thousands clearance. Nice attachment. And video Thanks
My father was a slotter by trade.
Can you tilt the slotting head to align it to the dog, rather than trying to align the dog to the slotting head?
Now you need to Buy 2 more mills. One for the shaper head an one for the universal head.
Using a new lead hammer.
If anyone's curious to see this kind of tool in use without having to wait for Keith to find something, you can start here:
th-cam.com/video/8IOCMe7v6PY/w-d-xo.html
Hmm I'm wondering, if you lossend the head, the four bolts on the frond and rotated it, does it makes it easier to install it on the pin?
Congratulations on the find … always interesting content … how would I contact you about some advice on a matching project? Thanks in advance !
Sir please share videon any link of k&t 1224 milling
Can you change the length of stroke?
Looks like a little effort to figure a better way to rig that for installation, or create a lifting attachment to level it out, would not go amiss.