Problems & plans - 1990 Kawasaki ZZR1100
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ย. 2024
- I've been doing some digging and poking about trying to figure out why Boba (the 1990 Kawasaki ZZR1100), is only running on three cylinders..... and I've found some stuff and have a bit of a plan on how to fix it...
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As Spock stated "If you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Good luck on finding the cure mind sometimes these things just disappear with no obvious reasoning.
Hehehe... I hate it when it does that 🤣😂😅
The fun never stops does it? 😁 It is notoriously difficult to accurately measure low resistance of a very few Ohms, because of surface crud and oxide. Even if it looks clean there will be an oxide layer. I have a friend who used to be an electronics technician (for a cancer charity), he said they would sharpen their meter probes to needle points, which could then pierce through the oxide layer to get a better contact. It's a good tip. Only need to add 1 Ohm and your 3.5 is then looking like 4.5 and so it looks wrong. However like others I am suspecting HT leads and caps, which are now 32 years old. 😁
I must admit I don't like.old stuff, especially leads and electrical gizmos. I'm swapping the coils anyway and will remake the caps, so I'm hoping I can have incidence in them once done 👍
Hey quicky just a quick tip the cylinders are numbered from left to right so thats actually number 3 your working on. had the same problem with my zzr1100 so I put in new plugs and ran excellent after that.
Thank you matey. Yes I got the numbering wrong but they're both fed by the same coil so its no biggie really. It does pay to get it right on TH-cam though hey 🤣😂
@@QuickBikes Yes but you still need to look at carb number 2 to see if its blocked and if it is I would recommend taking all the float bowls off to check for dirt you probable dislodged something when you changes the fuel sight switch.
@@QuickBikes also I would just do the head torques now 70 mile wont make any difference, It done some heat cycles that's all that matters
Totally agree matey. It's all striped down now so very easy to get to 😁👍
Yes matey, they've all been cleaned and float heights checked just to be safe 👍
@10:17 I just want to say, I set my carbs exactly the same way according to the manual and my bike overfueled like a pig. ended up setting the floats at 17.5mm in exactly the same way you did and that sorted the bike right out. Also used clear hose on the fuel bowl drains to make sure that when the carbs were mounted the actual fuel level height when full was correct and consistent between all 4 carbs.
Good way of doing it.... I like that 👍
Could have tried swapping the coils to see if the fault moves, the HT leads unscrew so it would be easy enough to do.
The coils probably are available but off a different bike. Kawasaki coils come with the HT leads fitted so different length leads means a different part number for what is basically the same part.
A very good point... I metered thenother coil and it was in spec, so just assumed the first coil is breaking down. Either way, it can't hurt to swap them I guess. It's a good thing to go grubbing around with, even if I'm doingnit a bit cavk handed and not explaining things very well on the videos... 😂
Everytime I have had this issue, its been the plug cap (cutting off 1mm of HT lead until clean copper shows and screw back in) or a hairline crack in the HT lead that was very hard to spot and very intermittent.
It could very well be matey. I've got new coils coming, but will keep them just in case.
Main jet seat/needle guide make sure it installed and the right way up
Welcome to the world of older bikes! I’ve a 1994 fireblade I know the problems and issues, but enjoy it and be gentle,
There's gonna be fettling involved... that's half the fun matey 👍
take a plug from the running cylinder. test , Swap could over completely , test There is a resistor in the ht leads that often break down replace it with a bit of steel ( its only there to stop Mrs Jones going fuzzy ) test IF STILL not running properly still run it and grab a handful of wires and see if low tension feed tires are not broken ( electrics tend to be on and off and under load )
Thank you matey. I've not checked the resistors but the new coils don't come with caps, so they'll get checked when I switch them over. The Bandit coil problem was really fussy to pin down as it was so intermittent and they just got swapped out in the end 😁
@@QuickBikes call in sick tomorrow , and fiddle with bike ,,, we are dying to know !
Hehehe.... I can't matey, as much as I want it sorted, I couldn't pull a sickie 🤣😂
So I just completed a rebuild of a 99 Kawasaki Concours, and one thing I would check are the resistors inside the plug caps, assuming you have them in UK models. I found that due to arcing, they needed cleaning on both ends of the resistor to improve the Ohm readings. Without it, they were way too high. The caps look the same as mine and they are fully serviceable. I also bought a plug wire kit for another model for cheap, and used the new copper strand core wire to redo my leads.
Ah, good to know, thank you. I've got the new coils.coming but they don't come with caps, so I'll check them when I swap them over 😁👍
@@QuickBikes also do a quick check of the pickup coil air gap, should be 0.7mm
Had the same thing with my bandit 600 that I just rebuilt. Swooped them with my work bandit all good now 👍❤️😂🔧🏍
What, the coils?
@@QuickBikes yes quick the leads wor touching the top off the head . And getting hot . O the joys off taken them off 4 times. Got there in the end
2005 Cbf600 not run for years and years with only 385 miles on it last ridden with salt on the road. The carbs were gummed up big time, HT leads breaking down. Three times the carbs were off stripped and cleaned and breathers and HT leads replaced to get it sorted. There is little inside the plug caps but thete is a ceramic resistor (cannot find any replacement resistors on the whole of the planet Earth) which can eventually breakdown
Its sorted and runs sweet.
Edit. The chrome sliders - you can sort the pitting out gently using a window scraper to remove the high spots (dare say a scalpel would work) then THOROUGHLY clean out the pit and fill with epoxy (difficult) or super glue, cleaning off any high spots with new blade in the window scraper.
There's going to be bits n bobs that need doing as not everything got stripped and serviced, it was just rebuilt. I'll get there matey 👍
Hey quickie. Like you I have not found any way to get the fuel valve seat out of the carb without damaging it. I have searched all over and saw one suggestion to make a brass rod insert the exact size of the hole to prevent it from being crushed when you squeeze it with vice grips.
Yeah simar to how you get dowels out... that would work...👍
In side the tank, cleaner than a vicars collar 😉
It's cleaner than my undies which ain't that nasty if that helps 🤣😂
Just a pointer, it is best to ensure your multimeter reads near to zero prior to measuring anything.
Had problems with my carbs after stripping and ultrasonic cleaning, cylinder 2 and 4 slides not moving, removed them a second time blew them through with compèred air all ok thereafter. Balanced up running well now. As for your coils you can get aftermarket items on eBay .
The fitment in the frame on the C models isn’t great, this was altered on the D models. You can measure the secondaries by unscrewing the plug caps. The gearboxes on the C models do have weakness on 2nd gear anyway wishing you luck with 5 gear, the oil pump casting drops out of the bottom, had to replace my oil filter intermediate casing due cross threaded filter bolt. The oil cooler spacer had also corroded and wouldn’t seal these are no longer available but Crawley Kawasaki do had D model ones which fit but they are very slightly longer.
Thank you matey that's very helpful. As you'll see in the next video, I tried having a peak in the gearbox which didn't go that well... I think the cases need to be split to sort out 5th gear anyways, but I found some other stuff as well. The caps need to be swapped over to the new coils when they get here so I'll meter them again at that point just to make sure everything is OK before assembling it all again.
Thanks for chipping in matey 👍
What preceded your problem? Running out of fuel - twice . So the carbs were definitely sucking on any residual crap in the tank. It only takes a very tiny amount to block an internal passageway in a carburetor. The fact that the problem stayed with the same cylinder (no 3 reading from left to right looking forward) says to me that the problem is the carburetor. The coils as far as I am aware are singles with two output leads running a wasted spark, if it was the coil then No 2 cylinder would also be missing. If there is residual crap in the tank it will be water based so take the tap off and fit a small extension pipe to the reserve tap outlet pipe that way the crap will stay in the tank, you will lose a little bit of range but better than all the buggering about
Sound thinking matey. I didn't explain things very well in the video and I'm just doing an update video to cover the points I missed or got wrong. I'll get it sorted a d I'm changing coils just because they don't measure right anyways, buy to me everything pointed to fueling. Thanks for chipping in dude 😁
you can still buy the coils new, part numbers:- 21121-1220 and 21121-1221 there £163:13 each lol, and for the spark plug caps its :-211601098 there £31:50 each fowlers have 28 of them, OEM things arnt cheap, but when you consider how long they have lasted sometimes its worth the change of under wear to get them. sorry i was looking at the D model doh,, your right the coils are no longer avalable, I'll get my coat lol.
Hehehe... It makes me chuckle how they say £115 for a coil but they're no longer available 🤣😂
Hopefully you get it all sorted.Leccy probs are poo!Gearboxes are a pain also.I’m just a little dubious about fifth gear being worn,as it’s not one of the harder used gears.Top ,I suppose,with first and second being the harder used,especially with wheelie merchants.Anyway,you get it done,I’m sure,keep smiling.All the best.
It's a good learning curve and although there's work involved it's good to go poking about I think. 5th gear is going to be a pain as you'll see in the next video matey 😁
I know you've got some coming now but wemoto do Tourmax coils for that bike. Quality Japanese made.
I'm hoping a combination of new coils, remaking the caps and cleaning the carbs gets me going again. I was looking ebay and you can get some coils as cheap as £10... not sure of the brand though and I'm willing to bet those ones last about 5 minutes as the stock ones were mega expensive 🤔🤣
Check the resistance of your meter leads then subtract that from your measured resistance. Coils can degrade over time as the varnish on the windings degrades but this is quite rare.
They would appear to be dodgy as neither coils measures the same. It's probably best just to replace them in my book...
@@QuickBikes come get this one. seriously, im about to ebay it.
non runner, burgungy zzr1100, i tried selling a bike ad ended up with it,
itll be on ebay next week but youtubes doing its algo thing.
you wnat it?
When you say non runner ... 🤣
Hello Sir,
I have a Kawasaki ZZ-R1100 C1with Keihin CVKD40 Carburettors. I've restored the bike but, when running at temperature it idles a little lumpy. So after some diagnosis and processes of elimination , I have decided to remove the carbs, inspect, ultrasonic clean and overhaul. My question is, where is the best place to get good carburettor overhaul kits and an abundance of "O" ring seals for all the coolant and fuel plumbing?
Many thanks
Allan
I have the factory coils on one zx11 and stick coils on the other. I can't say I notice any difference in performance, but if you need new coils it may be possible to get stick coils.
Somebody else mentioned a stick coil conversion.... that might be something for the future but for now I same some stock ones coming 😁👍
I was surprised you didn't test the other coil. But you'll have a spare now😐
I hate electrics, I found the plug caps and leads to be the worst culprit.
Hopefully you'll get it sorted and still get some good riding in.
Thank you matey. I hate these kinds of issues and find them frustrating. I'm also.prone.to missing steps in a logical fault finding mission which doesn't help. The other coil measure in tolerance so it could be the cap I guess, but I'm replacing both coils anyways as I've had old.coils / leads break down with age and it can't really hurt. I should have shown this on camera just to.make the point....
Whats the fuel and air screw setting mate would you know what they are i have them on 2 turns out out the moment
Have you got a filter between tank and carbs? If not add one asap
There is one matey. I pulled it apart to check if junk was coming through from the tank and its all good. Sorry chap, I didn't film that bit as it was just a quick thing...
Spray carb clean into number 2 carb and see if it fires, that will 100% rule in or out the carb.
Aw yeah.... I didn't think if that 🤣😂
@@QuickBikes Maybe a compression test to check for a stuck valve too
Yes matey, it's on my list of things to do as you Spark, fuel and compression to.run right 😁👍
Hello sir my question is for a different issue but still about zzr, a lot of people says zzr 1100 d has always the issue of the third cylinder blowing out.,what are the symtoms of it and how to chek and take care of it..thanks in advance
That's not something I've encountered yet, so can't really comment I'm afraid... I have a knocking noise up to 3000rpm which I think is a spun shell bearing, but won't know till I do an oil pressure check on the galleries or pull the engine apart again...
Hi there Quicky!
Wazzup dude 😁🖐
I thought you swapped the leads over and the fault remained on cylinder 2 if so its not the coil, leads or cap. Haven't watched the vid again but thought you cleaned the plug and briefly it ran ok then the fault re appeared For me it all points to a defective plug. Would have been worth trying a new plug before digging in to the carbs and coils. I've always struggled to get reliable test readings on coils and have even reused ones I've previously binned that went on to be fine. Looking forward to hearing it run sweet. Unlucky with the 5th gear issue but it'll be fixable.
It certainly sounds like carb or plug to me, but just because they didn't measure correctly the coils are getting swapped out just to be safe... I could well be wrong buy there's jot harm in replacing them as they're ancient 🤣
I disassembled my carb. Where does pilot jet 38 go? I couldn't get the smallest pin to clean that jet so I ordered a set. Just don't kno when it goes. Anyone know?
Well at least your working through what it isn't.. with luck the newer coils will solve it . And just remember not to try and filter with the van it's a bit wider than the bike
Hehehe... its not as quick either. When the bike.was.running right it was LOADS of fun 😁👍
@@QuickBikes had some fun today similar to yours cant work out what's wrong . Mate came up for me to refit his panniers brackets . Had to take off the indicators to mount to the rear bracket .xjr 1300 job all sorted starts bike to go pops in gear clunk dead . 1st thing side stand ..nope 2nd idea clutch switch nope 3rd neutral switch nope . Under the rear end theres a stupid clip in a twin wire that's got sommat to do will the whole thing .. little black plug fell off while me hands were putting the indicators wiring back ..who the f puts sommat that important under the rear light cluster? ? Least we found it ..took 6 bloody hours and a shit load of electrical testing of other circuits ..
See.... its these little gremlins and dumb stuff that I like finding out 🤣😂😅 It's often the dumbest most stupid thing that trips you up and keeps.you humble. Well done on finding it matey 👏 👍
Sorry but did you zero your Ohm meter before you took the primary reading, your only out of spec by 0.4 of an Ohm, loving the channel hope the gearbox is a simple fix 😎
Errr... I'm not sure now you say that... I think so as I normal touch the probes to check the reading before testing something, but I could be wrong. Either way the coils are old so it wouldn't hurt to swap them 😁
You first clean out card 3 not 2card
It's definitely the carb with the problem though... apparentlynits 1 to 4 left to right, so I cleaned out carb 3.... 🤣😂
Do you have a link for the new coils?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194220837960?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dpDE_KyJTQ-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_Hkr80rQ2a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL
Hi Quicky, don't normally comment as i watch on the tv , but just a thought? have you done a compression check to rule out a mechanical issue? best of luck.
I haven't yet, but will do so when I've got the other stuff I'm waiting on. I'm going to retorque the head first as it's due, but it will get checked 😁👍
Thank you matey 👍
@@QuickBikes personally i would check the compressions before torqueing the head, might save you stripping it twice incase there is a problem, keep up the good work.
Isn't number two second from left of engine when looking forward on the bike? It looks like you are calling second from right number two.
Yep you state #2 cylinder is misfiring, but you are working on #3 carb not #2.
Yeah, I got the numbering wrong 🤣😂
Might pay to fit a fuel filter on the fuel line.
There's one on there to the pump. I did check it off camera and its basically fine, but I should have covered that in the video 😁👍
Plug Wire??..They are old..I guess rechecking valve clearance in #2 is something else easy to rule out..You can use the coils off any comparable bike...again just to rule that out...I have had cracked plug insulators...and bad plug wire connectors....just have to eliminate 1 at a time until you find it...A coil,wire,connector,or plug issue should become notably worse, in gear under load( brake on let clutch out and slip)...LOL..GOOD LUCK!! ..👍🗽🇺🇸
Oooo there's plenty it could be. The bike is old and I haven't keep remembering that. All kinds of stuff could be buggered 🤣
hello buddy could you not swop the two coils over and see if it did it on the other two cylinders
I could, but they're not measuring right anyways, so they're getting swapped out. You're absolutely right though matey 👍
@@QuickBikes cool. just thought it might trying just to see what happens with a good coil on it.
Yeah it's a good idea matey. I thinkni was just getting a bit frustrated by that point 🤣😂
@@QuickBikes know what you mean put pods on mine and it won’t run Smoothly when you blip the throttle. tried air screw in and out no difference. Messed about trying things with the pods. So guess it’s jets next. At least full 1/8 to full throttle is good 😂😂
CV carbs are a nightmare with POD filters normally, but put the airbox on and the problems go away. That could be part of your problem maybe. Trouble is that Pod filters just look betterer 😁
do you want another one?
its got coils on it, it was stolen rec. not far.
its got to go, thees a nitrous kit on it,
Nitrous...!!
You are looking at no3 carb not no2
Yes matey, I got the numbering g wrong 🤣
Vacuum leak??
Don't think so matey as the cylinder definitely wasn't firing at all... the exhaust header was stone cold 🤔