I have a 1976 firebird project car and it had a 350 two bbl. that was cracked and my buddy gave me a 400 thin 500557 block and I rebuilt it and it needed boring out and two of the cylinders needed sleeves due to rust. It is .030 over bored with cast stock pistons .010 crank new everything inside the engine and I used the heads from the 350 they were still good I lapped the valves they were 6×4 castings and were used on 350/400. I think it has 8.5:1 compression. The cam is an SUM-2800 which is not all that popular with hot engine builders but it didn't disappoint either. I was surprised especially after replacing those awful log exhaust manifolds with ram air three reproduction exhaust manifolds man it woke up!! It wouldn't stop pulling unless I get off the throttle it would throw a rod if I didn't. I gotta be careful with it now. That cam works great with lower compression low octane and air conditioning in the hottest climate and still won't detonate. High compression is good if you live in a cooler climate and better gas. I'm surprised the block is still holding up I might just need to leave it like it is and find a better block for those high compression heads
Put the handle of the breaker bar to the rear of the engine and towards the passenger side when taking off the front bolts and pull the handle from the driver's side and brace against the block
I’ve got to tear down my ‘69 400 soon, too. Hopefully no surprises in there. Couldn’t find anything on those connecting rod stamps. Didn’t seem to be a factory requirement - wonder if those are aftermarket?
Pontiac 400 early blocks are hard to find you have a jewel. The 500557 is the only one that is thin and not to be trusted with anything but a low compression stock build. Its okay just get a better crank. Get a 4" lightened forged balanced rotating assembly with forged rods. That will be a big improvement. You don't want those old stock rods anyway they're cast. I just hope the block is okay. A 4" stroker assembly will make it about a 427 cu. in. I like the 4" better than the 461 stroker it makes it a little more rev happy. The 461 needs a strong transmission and rear end otherwise the extra torque will shred it.
I plan on Reuse my Rods and crank, a torque plate to spec is need when cross hone a Pontiac and no ball hones, clean the casing flash everywhere and clean up the heads carefully, get a solid roller cam, 1.6 rockers, hydraulic lifters, and a front fed 750 Quadra jet for a 67 firebird. Line hone the mains and turn the crank and not sure the numbers on rods, I would knock out freeze plug and clean the water passages. And oil galley plugs wow that was a surprise on crank
In 1968 GM went to a stronger nodular iron GM had developed for crankshafts, but it may not have made it into Pontiac 400's until late 68, so 69 to 74 400 crankshafts are the best bet for the stronger crankshaft. The 421 and early 428's got Armasteel cranks, which is a different cast iron, with some steel-like properties. It remained for the connecting rods, but didn't have the desired give the forged steel and nodular iron crankshafts have. 428's went to the new nodular iron in mid-68, but some 400's might have been later. The 67 400 cranks are nothing special. The newer nodular iron was specifically developed by GM for crankshafts and does a good job.
@jimjungle1397, Arma Steel for 421, Pearlitic Maluable Iron, 1970 was Nodular Iron. I went in order from strongest to weakest crankshafts respectfully.
@@kevinmanning4880 Late 428's have nodular iron cranks and the pistons are a different weight from the armasteel crank 428 pistons. 1970 was a big year for the newer nodular iron in the newer, long stoke engines from GM. The Chevy 454 used forged steel cranks until 73.
Buy once and whine once I always say! Get a forged crank and you will never have a issue ever and those motors are awesome if you stay under the red line of the internals you use. I had a few of the Pontiac 400's and they are torque and power to go I would go with a 400 Turbo Hydramatic and get it beefed up just enough to run what you plan on doing and budget building got me wondering. You can do more than you think with the right budget parts buying.
100% agree! With crankshaft prices where they are it just doesn't make sense to put a 55 plus year old crank in a motor. Definitely change to aftermarket rods! Pontiac rods really suck bad! Rod bolts are the weak link. Aftermarket crank and rods and no one would ever know.
@@ArrowheadGarage Your welcome. You may find this amusing. I had an extra Tri Power manifold with carburetors for a 389 and sold it for $35. But that was 1975.
200 bucks for a YT block.....man someone must've needed a hit! That's a lucky find! I bought a pretty much top down 68 YT block 400 15 years ago for $450 and thought I got a deal! YT block 400s are around $1500 on Franks's Pontiac parts....if they have them.
GM developed an "improved" nodular iron for crankshafts during 1968. Some late 68 engines may have it, but to be sure, use a 1969 or larger crankshaft, as some 68 cranks were the older, weaker nodular iron. The older nodular cranks are not as strong.
I was cringing how close that engine stand was only inches from the door when you were trying to break the main cap bolts as the stand was rolling ever so closer to the paint on the car 😲
SHOULD HAVE HELD out for 428 engine. REMEMBER the weak links of the Pontiac v8 are the cast rods and oiling system. PLAN on getting a high capacity oil pan and 80 psi oil pump, and a decent aftermarket cam.
After running Pontiac motors for years I prefer the 400s over the 428s and 455s because of the smaller main bearing surfaces. If you start running higher RPMs from using bigger cams the 428s and 455s starve the rod bearings. I used to have issues even running SD rods on a 455 with a HV oil pump and a windage tray. You can take a 455 crank and turn it down to a 3" main and clearance the block a bit and its good to go. Best part is no one ever knows whats inside!
@@w41duvernayIts the way to go. However now you can get rotating assemblies that are already good for getting those cubes out of a 400 block with little clearancing. I have a 428 block so won't be going that route on my 65 GTO but on my 68 when i go back through it I might stroke it just because im that far into it.
I have a 1976 firebird project car and it had a 350 two bbl. that was cracked and my buddy gave me a 400 thin 500557 block and I rebuilt it and it needed boring out and two of the cylinders needed sleeves due to rust. It is .030 over bored with cast stock pistons .010 crank new everything inside the engine and I used the heads from the 350 they were still good I lapped the valves they were 6×4 castings and were used on 350/400. I think it has 8.5:1 compression. The cam is an SUM-2800 which is not all that popular with hot engine builders but it didn't disappoint either. I was surprised especially after replacing those awful log exhaust manifolds with ram air three reproduction exhaust manifolds man it woke up!! It wouldn't stop pulling unless I get off the throttle it would throw a rod if I didn't. I gotta be careful with it now. That cam works great with lower compression low octane and air conditioning in the hottest climate and still won't detonate. High compression is good if you live in a cooler climate and better gas. I'm surprised the block is still holding up I might just need to leave it like it is and find a better block for those high compression heads
At least you have a good block and your sticking true to the car with one of the best motors of all time.
Glad I caught your symbol on action auto or I would be missing out on all the good things I am going to get to see now. 🤜🤛
John what is action auto?
Put the handle of the breaker bar to the rear of the engine and towards the passenger side when taking off the front bolts and pull the handle from the driver's side and brace against the block
That’s a great deal, looking for engine for our ‘67 as well. They are getting hard to find. Great video.👍
Thanks guys... If i find another one around here I will let you know.
H ax ve a yt for 67 bird original bore
Heck of a find, i dont see many of these here. i have grabbed what i could find my way. im finding it hard to build an engine on a budget these days.
When it popped up I about fell over... I was like even if the block is junk I get another engine stand lol
@@ArrowheadGarage your not wrong at all. Broken crank is no big deal if the block is good. Just gonna cost a little more.
What cam and heads will you be using. Ram air three reproduction exhaust manifolds or full length headers?
Not a good sight, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Awesome find. 1967 400 blocks seem to be getting few and far between especially one from a bird originally
I wonder if I could use half of that crank in my Porsche???? half a Pontiac in a Porsche lol NOT!
I’ve got to tear down my ‘69 400 soon, too. Hopefully no surprises in there. Couldn’t find anything on those connecting rod stamps. Didn’t seem to be a factory requirement - wonder if those are aftermarket?
They something... hoping someone will chim in with an answer, thanks for watching and can't wait to see your next video!
Pontiac 400 early blocks are hard to find you have a jewel. The 500557 is the only one that is thin and not to be trusted with anything but a low compression stock build. Its okay just get a better crank. Get a 4" lightened forged balanced rotating assembly with forged rods. That will be a big improvement. You don't want those old stock rods anyway they're cast. I just hope the block is okay. A 4" stroker assembly will make it about a 427 cu. in. I like the 4" better than the 461 stroker it makes it a little more rev happy. The 461 needs a strong transmission and rear end otherwise the extra torque will shred it.
I love that shirt! I will have to get one of those, good morning to you by the way, I should have spit that out first of all
I love it! and good Morning to you as well!
That's awesome you got a numbers correct engine! Too bad about the crank, wonder what caused that break?
I had several folks suggest over rev on low octane gas... :(
Working on a Pontiac here 👍 #traditionalpontiacpowerrules
Sweet, I need to get caught up on your videos this week!!!
I plan on Reuse my Rods and crank, a torque plate to spec is need when cross hone a Pontiac and no ball hones, clean the casing flash everywhere and clean up the heads carefully, get a solid roller cam, 1.6 rockers, hydraulic lifters, and a front fed 750 Quadra jet for a 67 firebird. Line hone the mains and turn the crank and not sure the numbers on rods, I would knock out freeze plug and clean the water passages. And oil galley plugs wow that was a surprise on crank
In 1968 GM went to a stronger nodular iron GM had developed for crankshafts, but it may not have made it into Pontiac 400's until late 68, so 69 to 74 400 crankshafts are the best bet for the stronger crankshaft. The 421 and early 428's got Armasteel cranks, which is a different cast iron, with some steel-like properties. It remained for the connecting rods, but didn't have the desired give the forged steel and nodular iron crankshafts have. 428's went to the new nodular iron in mid-68, but some 400's might have been later. The 67 400 cranks are nothing special. The newer nodular iron was specifically developed by GM for crankshafts and does a good job.
@jimjungle1397, Arma Steel for 421, Pearlitic Maluable Iron, 1970 was Nodular Iron. I went in order from strongest to weakest crankshafts respectfully.
@@kevinmanning4880 Late 428's have nodular iron cranks and the pistons are a different weight from the armasteel crank 428 pistons. 1970 was a big year for the newer nodular iron in the newer, long stoke engines from GM. The Chevy 454 used forged steel cranks until 73.
Buy once and whine once I always say! Get a forged crank and you will never have a issue ever and those motors are awesome if you stay under the red line of the internals you use. I had a few of the Pontiac 400's and they are torque and power to go I would go with a 400 Turbo Hydramatic and get it beefed up just enough to run what you plan on doing and budget building got me wondering. You can do more than you think with the right budget parts buying.
Thanks for the tips!
100% agree! With crankshaft prices where they are it just doesn't make sense to put a 55 plus year old crank in a motor. Definitely change to aftermarket rods! Pontiac rods really suck bad! Rod bolts are the weak link. Aftermarket crank and rods and no one would ever know.
Nice ! You should build a small work bench, so car is not one! I know about workspace limits; I had a one car garage for years.
My 67 400 tri-power was the fastest car in my hometown back in the 70s
First motor I ever owned was a 67 400 with Tri Power off a 66 389. Freshly rebuilt $ 400. Of course that was a very long time ago.
Stephen you're showing your age lol Just Kidding, everything was better and cheaper back in the good ole days! Thanks for watching!
@@ArrowheadGarage Your welcome. You may find this amusing. I had an extra Tri Power manifold with carburetors for a 389 and sold it for $35. But that was 1975.
200 bucks for a YT block.....man someone must've needed a hit! That's a lucky find! I bought a pretty much top down 68 YT block 400 15 years ago for $450 and thought I got a deal! YT block 400s are around $1500 on Franks's Pontiac parts....if they have them.
Let's hope the block is good, at the machine shop now waiting to hear back...fingers crossed.
GM developed an "improved" nodular iron for crankshafts during 1968. Some late 68 engines may have it, but to be sure, use a 1969 or larger crankshaft, as some 68 cranks were the older, weaker nodular iron. The older nodular cranks are not as strong.
Good to know... I will look for a 68 or newer 400 crank!
The piston are low compression 72 up
Looks like they ran the original antifreeze from the late 60's with the rust issue.
Lil tip , turn the engine on its side so you can push down and the stand won't roll , cool channel
Thanks for watching and great tip!!
I don't like the chunk of the block missing on the back wall of the lifter valley.
I was cringing how close that engine stand was only inches from the door when you were trying to break the main cap bolts as the stand was rolling ever so closer to the paint on the car 😲
Those main caps torque at 100 ft.lbs. except the rear at 120 ft.lbs..
I know getting old has soften me... but damn lol
SHOULD HAVE HELD out for 428 engine. REMEMBER the weak links of the Pontiac v8 are the cast rods and oiling system. PLAN on getting a high capacity oil pan and 80 psi oil pump, and a decent aftermarket cam.
After running Pontiac motors for years I prefer the 400s over the 428s and 455s because of the smaller main bearing surfaces. If you start running higher RPMs from using bigger cams the 428s and 455s starve the rod bearings. I used to have issues even running SD rods on a 455 with a HV oil pump and a windage tray. You can take a 455 crank and turn it down to a 3" main and clearance the block a bit and its good to go. Best part is no one ever knows whats inside!
@@whodatnunyabiz6050 I was thinking the same thing with a 4" stroker crank to turn that 400 into a 428 with the 3" mains.
@@w41duvernayIts the way to go. However now you can get rotating assemblies that are already good for getting those cubes out of a 400 block with little clearancing. I have a 428 block so won't be going that route on my 65 GTO but on my 68 when i go back through it I might stroke it just because im that far into it.
Over revved it while power jacking what ever the motor was in😢😢