Fixing all the Problems on this - Mini Baja Bug Project
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video we are building a Mini Baja Bug using a Polaris XLT 600 two stroke snowmobile engine and a go kart fiberglass body of a VW bug.
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The “storage” tank is marked “not for fuel” for EPA purposes. It doesn’t have the shut off cap that is on all the stupid red fuel cans now so it can’t be sold as a gas tank.
Beat me to it…stupid gov regulations
Congrats Chris has his first interaction with govt BS.
Gas is supposed to be red and cannot have a vent because Greta 😂
Good.... Someone else beat me to it. That "law" is retarded AF. Along with ALL laws.
You can buy tanks with that style cap for fuel. They are color coded for what they contain. Red tanks are for gasoline, yellow for diesel, clear for non flammable.
@@wabash9000 You beat Me to it !
Chris, Rectifier will get HOT when NOT grounded to a plate to HEAT SINK it..... Rectifier HAS TO BE mounted to a GROUND PLATE on the Frame to remove HEAT and to be able to rectify properly. BATT will get up to 14V sometimes. The Battery will only PULL AMPS it needs. BE SURE to put a FUSE between BATTERY CHARGE WIRE and RECTIFIER!!!!
I don't know why i read 14 Amps.... or mounted on a chunk of aluminium. regarding LEDs, you will need load resistors for the amps
Also the rectifier dumps excess unused voltage as heat the more electrical load he has while running the cooler the rectifier will be
Great videos.
That oil pump has an oil line going to a bearing. I would put the oil tank back in and hook the oil pump back up. If there is an oil line going to a bearing, the engineers did it for a reason. Adding some oil to the line now and then probably won't help much.
That fuel jug, unless fuel reacts with the plastic and melts it. It is labeled that way for liability issues. Does not have EPA's maximum spill system 😂.
Id just add the tank back in and plumb that line to the bearing back to it with no pump, but add a little regulator to the line so its not just pouring too much in, simplicity is key
The pump doesn't work and he can't because he would have to get a new drive gear.
Bro! Unhook the pto bearing from the carb. It will siphon the oil from the bearing! Please cap the carbs! Hook the pto bearing to your tank. And just top it off every so often or put a tube upward on the frame where you can watch the level ... it's important to keep it lubed!
I was thinking that the line that was on would work with a pin-hole cap.Just leave the line vertical and check oil level as it'll only pull what's needed.A tiny air hole will keep it from just draining into the bearing.Gear lube is thick enough and won't leak down.
Exactly, hence the excessive smoke on stsrtup. Just zip tie the pto oil hose up on the frame, and use a small piece of hose with something tight in it to block of the carb port.
@@bryduhbikeguy yes! its the same thing we do on rotax seadoo;s when we delete the oiling system!
@@schwartzenheimer1 yes! its the same thing we do on rotax seadoo;s when we delete the oiling system!
So now that you disabled the oil injection pump,you need to rejet richer because your trying to push a thicker fluid through those jets that were jetted for straight gas.trust me,it makes a difference,seen so many people blow up 2 strokes by doing the same thing.oil mixed in gas is a thicker fluid then straight gas by itself.i would try 5 sizes up on the mains to start,and at least 3 on the pilots.
The oil mixes before it goes through the jets anyway.
Seen people blow up two strokes by using the wrong oil as well. Some use the pre-mix oil in the oil injection system and some use the oil injection as a pre-mix. Wrong formulas and will cause engine failure.
@@camyota right so now he is pushing oil plus gas thru the jets, its not only more viscous but it displaces fuel by whatever the mix ratio is, so like 2% less fuel as the oil is now in its place if he is mixing 2% oil.
You always upjet on switching for best performance. I dunno about 3 on the pilots but a least one on the pilot and a couple sizes on the mains. but you wont know till you start jetting what it will actually want. Easiest is always upjet till it runs crappy then start backing down till it runs clean.
Yes the amount of oil in the premix displaces the fuel, so the motor runs more lean, could add up to overheating as well...
I blew my stage 4 tuned RD350 YPVS up four Times before i realised that, Got very expensive the last time as it snapped the crank and high sided me to oblivion after a 115mph seize while fully lent over cornering, Knocked out on landing, Broke both collar bones and the scaphoid in the back of my left hand.
You NEED the oil pump on that engine!! Splash lube from the premix will not reach the outer pto bearing. Polaris tried that already and then added the 4th oil line direct to the pto bearing. Oil pumps are very reliable, millions of engines run with them working for many miles.
I have been working on sleds since the 70s and have yet to see a pump fail but if it were to fail they are designed to fail wide open.
Water and debris in the oil tank and system will cause oil starvation but if kept clean you will not have a injection pump problem.
I suspect you did not bleed the pump properly or at all which will cause an air lock and not alloe the pump to function just like any other pump of any kind.
Again Polaris added the forth line to the pto bearing for a reason.
@ratherbwelding - This
Thats wat iam sYing too that motor not ment tovrun witj out the oil injector... He probmy did t h e the cable on itnor have it adjusted rite. He shkukd put pre mix in it to brake the motor in to .. no wonde ris has low compression now
👍absolutely, that bearing needs the oil.
Great job
He could just put the oil tank back on, and gravity feed the pto bearing tube to the tank.
Hey Chris,,
The water pump was definitely an issue with cooling!!!
Sucking air past that seal and creating cavitation in the pump!!
Definitely won't circulate!
The oil injection?
I think it would be best to make sure that those bearings are continuously getting oil!!
Awesome job man!!!
I have all the charging information you will need, you just have to find what apply s to your system. First the easy stuff. Motor off battery voltage should be about 12.5 to 13 volts Running voltage should be between 13.8 to 14.8 volts. NOW you need to find if your stater voltage is using chassis ground or is isolated. and if the rectifier/regulator is isolated or using chassis ground. If they are both using chassis ground you are shorting out half the system causing the high amp draw and will end up burning everything up by shorting the AC and DC together creating half wave DC not full wave. half wave is not good for electronics like LED lights. To solve this you must find a way to isolate both the AC and DC power, this may require to use a different rectifier/ regulator or mounting it on a chunk of rubber and run both plus and minus wires for the DC power without using chassis ground. I hope this will help and GOOD LUCK!
yoy cant just convert to premix on all 2 strokes, some bearings might not get oil at all like that, just fix the damn pump
baja bugs sometimes have ducts in place of the rear side windows so i shouldn't be out of place if you made some of those. probably good for your comfort too
Cut out a spot on your cooling fan shroud and mount the rectifier there in the air flow. Automobiles have been mounting resistors in blower motor housings for years.
These new synthetic 2 stroke oils don't smoke once the engine gets to normal operating temperature
Maybe it is time to make an easy coolant drain plug on your projects...
Damn right round headlights!! Nice!!
Chris, "gas cans" have required all those stupid interlock devices on them since 2009--the kind that take about 3 people to be able to pour the fuel with spilling. It started in California, but has since made it a pain the ass all across the country. I live in Ca. and just bought new jugs just like yours. I'm always looking over my shoulder when at a gas station in case the gas can police are watching me!
My wife ran out of gas (of course) and I couldn’t even get the damn nozzle in with that stupid interlock. Nor could I have pulled back to release the fuel out of it.
Politicians and bureaucrats could fuck up a wet dream. Never allow them to make these kinds of decisions.
Lol, don't live in shame! For being smart.
12 should keep themselves safe
im remembering Breaking Bad.... certain plastics for certain fluids XD
@ratherbwelding ignore the tag on the jug. That’s there so the EPA will let the store sell them without it being one of those stupid no-vent cans with auto-close valved dispensers that everybody (except the EPA) hates.
You do know that stupid gas tanks have actually nothing to do with any of the lettered agencies and they came about because stupid people kept throwing gas on fire and then would end up in lawsuits against companies making said gas tanks, at which point insurance companies get involved, which lobbied for the change. It's genuinely funny to me, as an European, that most NA people have no clue why these gas cans stared being used at large. Oh and i know because your idiotic "you get sued, you get sued, and you get sued, everyone's getting sued" society, killed off one of the oldest gas can manufacturers in the United States (if not the oldest), which also supplied NATO, and thus by trickle, us here in Europe. So thank you for that.
Mount your rectifier on a heat sink. Job done 👍
Could use an air box like the one on the trophy kart to avoid excessive dirt build up on the filters.
Love the round lights. If something is designed to have an oil feed then it must have one or it will seize.
not if you use premix tho
Don't throw away that gas can! Because of the delivery mechanism or lack thereof, they have to save it as a disclaimer. At any rate, this build is my favorite! You kept the look of the beetle so well. Funnily enough I usually do not like Volkswagen beetles. But when they are made into Baja vehicles I do lol. And you have made such a glorious machine
Yes the round headlights is a lot better and more fitting. Love your videos, keep it up.
Don’t delete the oil injection
Re: Regulator. Attach it to one of your aluminum panels, with a bit of heat sink paste. The panel will act like a cooling fin, it'll be fine.
Round headlights was really the cherry on top 👌🏼
Cool looking buggy. I think it looks a lot like a Baja Bug even without the body! 👌👌
The rectifiers between this unit and your CBR1000 unit are different. I don't know the exact specifics of this unit, but it looks like it is a single phase stator (2 wires feeding the rectifier from the stator) and the CBR1000 is a 3 phase system (3 wires from stator to rectifier). The single phase system will pull much more current (per wire) than the 3 phase unit. Also I believe this rectifier is a shunt style and the CBR1000 rectifier is a MOSFET style. The shunt style rectifiers get way hotter than the MOSFET style.
The fuel jug is labeled "Not For Gasoline" due to EPA regulations without the stupid anti-spill spout.
Awesome project! I love watching your builds!
Very brave deleting the oil pump... I would have thought it supplied the main end bearings ..
I like the switch to round headlights.
Add some one way flaps on the closed side of radiator fan so when driving air can flow thru without restriction very easy to make with the piece you cut out just have to make a hinge for each
Snowmobiles Leans into fast turns so the floats don't close off like the buggy being flat and the fuel shoved to 1 side of the bowl.You increasing the flow will help.Keep the 2' oil line for the bearing and use a pinhole cap to let it vent but not drain.If you use gearoil it'll flow slower,but the thickness will help the bearing.It'll be easy to see what's used. Hope you're having Fun now as it's the 2nd. Happy Forth Everyone !
You need to stop the bodyroll. Add a sway bar on the rearend. This will help you do the donuts you werent able to do last time.
I would reconsider the oil pump to feed your crank bearings - those XLT motors were notorious for throwing cranks due to casting flaws in the case and need consistent oiling especially at high speeds. If the motor is a 1996+ it has better casting for the crank than the earlier models pre 1996. Oil that thing! 😂
When you put the new round lights on my first thought was calling it Herby JR
I keep meaning to comment- try a random orbit sander with what ever grit you fancy for going over the surface of panels- it leaves a nice frosted patena
Here's a word from the wise. I see this done with VGG as well. Don't ever put coolant, I mean antifreeze coolant in any vehicle until you've worked out all the bugs. Always just use water and make sure for obvious purposes, that it isn't below freezing when you do these things. It is such common sense it gets overlooked on almost everyone of these building channels it makes me so embarrassed.
Why not? Just so you don't waste coolant or does a black hole open up in Kenya or something?
@@BIGWIGGLE223 if theres metal shards in the coolant he'd have to replace it
@@BIGWIGGLE223 so you don't waste money and time and the frustration of all the coolant and slimy gype and wasted energy. I thought that was quite clear.
He works in temps below freezing sometimes, if he used just water it would freeze and ruin his motor , so it depends on where you live and if it's in a heated garage the whole time
@@bustinyanutz4195 no shit Sherlock. Most of the time where I've caught him dumping antifreeze into a motor has been well above freezing and he still continues to do it. Stop defending stupidity
A pool noodle on the head guard would prevent you from hurting your head or neck. Just a few zip ties would hold it in place.
it's nice that you listen about the headlights
You should make that deleted oil pump into an auxiliary gas tank. That would doble your onboard capacity.
I was thinking the same when I saw him remove it. On the other hand, looks better without it.
You could use the oil tank you took off for extra fuel reserve.
You could use the oil tank you took off for extra fuel reserve.
That jug is fine for gas. That’s an EPA thing. Throw that tag in the trash.
"better steering then the grave ninja" thats why you need the brakes lol.
love the project, just like everything on this channel
You're really still wondering with the water pump bearings that wasted? YES! that is 100% causing overheating problems. It's not rocket science bro. *slaps you upside the head* That pump required proper clearance between the housing and the impeller. That light scratching you see is MAJOR DAMAGE. The wear made the pump just spin and not pump nearly as much as it should. And on the oil pump topic, you might want to reconsider. many engine designs with pumps use them to feed the main bearings, and running pre-mix is not enough for some engines. Not sure about yours, but you should ask a snowmobile guy who knows before you try this.
Yup this engine needs the oil pump for the crank bearings to survive.
Yeah been seeing a lot of keyboard commandos saying delete the oil pump, delete it because it can fail and cause issues. These pumps rarely if ever fail. They only fail if people use the wrong type of oil in it. Like using the pre-mix oil and not oil for oil injection.
The “storage” tank is marked “not for fuel” for EPA purposes. It doesn’t have the shut off cap that is on all the stupid red fuel cans now so it can’t be sold as a gas tank.
The white spots inside of the pull start housing are oxidizing the aluminum because of the water from the water pump
I agree .
I was checking the comments, before saying the same thing.
Don’t forget to Change the Fuel into Mixed Fuel and the Red Can You Carry Outside Greetings Max
Since you're running premix gas, you're going to have to adjust the carburetors to run on premix gas. Since they are designed just to run on pure gas. Yes, it will run, but it will run lean.
Run a small reservoir for the pto bearing and plug the carbs off right.
Another bearing and some new screws and you have a backup water pump.
Use an old ford Voltage regulator/rectifier It can handle 100's of amps, and costs like 12 bucks
Cool bug. What about adding a small fire extinguisher. Just in case of a small fire. Just an idea.
You werent clear in the video, let me get this straight, You ARE? or Are not any good at Electronics???? LOL
You are thinking about the amperage wrong. The stator/magneto is the generator, capable of supplying sufficient power for it's purpose. The rectifier/regulator simply converts the A/C voltage to DC and limits the max current to it's rated limit. The "LOAD" is what "pulls" the current from the regulator and stator.
In this case the battery wasn't fully charged and was simply charging. Once it is fully charged it won't pull hardly any current (just running the coils or cdi) until you put another load on it, like lights or radiator fan.
The bigger the load, the hotter the regulator will get as it's working closer to it's rated limit to keep the battery charged.
Glad you typed all this and save me from. 😂
Same. I’ll go a bit further and add that you did the best thing possible for the regulator. As was mentioned above the regulator is a way of converting one thing to another. That conversion creates heat and the more it converts the hotter it gets. Air flow isn’t super critical but heat dissipation is. Mounting it against the aluminum floor pan gives it ample amount of surface area to dissipate heat. The other regulators you were testing were mounted so they were doing what they were supposed to do. Just be sure to not use washers, spacers or insulation between the regulator and aluminum floor. You want it as flush and smooth fitting as possible.
@@wesmadebuilds681 happy to catch a video early enough to share some knowledge. Lol. Usually I come to the comments and see someone beat me to it.
And the fuse between the stator and rectifier is to protect the stator if the rectifier demands too much power or if you have a short to keep from melting wires etc.
Better steering on that bug? I seen it pushing through the corners three wheeling most of the way
if it was running lean it would contribute to the over heating condition? and a bad water pump would Add to that. it should have been boiling over. but that engine should have a closed cooling system. that has a catch can near the radiator. with a radiator cap that draws the coolant back into the cooling system as it cools down. similar to the cooling system's on modern cars. and it should have a thermostat. that keeps the cooling system around the specified operating temperature for that engine. as for cars, the lowest temperature thermostat that a person can get is a 160° thermostat. but most modern cars have 210° thermostats. which allows the emission control system. to burn the fuel more completely. but that's not the same objective on a two stroke engine. where a small amount of unburnt oil is allowed to pass though the exhaust system. because the oil that lubricates the the engine is mixed into the fuel. where a four stroke engine the oil that lubricates the engine is in the crankcase of the engine. and your best bet is to mix the oil and fuel. because oil injection systems can be somewhat untrustworthy. and that way a person knows exactly the amount of oil that's in the fuel at all times.
If you did roll the buggy those plastic petrol tanks on the sides could rupture & possibly catch fire witch would be catastrophic for you,
The oil injection is run off a cable u orobmy didnt have it set rite . Neve rhad a probmy woththose oil pumps on those engines. It need to have oul pump cuz the goes to thw bearings . U have to have the cable set rite . There aark on it with aine . U have make it lil richer if u want.
Ionno, you got a welder, Poke a hole in the lowest point of where the coolant would sit, and weld some kind of drain thing. Then you can just drain if from somewhere that you can get all the coolant out? Maybe its not that easy ionno.
The white stuff inside the cover looked like crystallised glycerin from the coolant
Also the battery should be charging at 14.5v roughly and will gradually drop down to just under 13v
It stoped smoking because it burned out all the oil that got built up in the cylinders and exhaust from trying to get it running in the beginning, just because it isn’t throwing out a smoke cloud dosnt always mean it’s not getting properly oiled
The polaris oil pumps were pretty reliable unless they had "bean oil" through them, especially after being stored for a while. I've found lines and injectors plugged with molasses looking stuff!
Did you use distilled water in the radiator the white spots might be “corrosion” from electrolysis. Just from when the water pump was leaking. Coolants really corrosive.
You would have a blast with that Baja bug on the Silver Lake sand dunes here in Michigan!!!!!
Just put the oil tank back on but only feed the PTO by gravity.
More than likely the white spot in the cover are a result of electrolysis/corrosion. Reaction from the coolant on the aluminum.
Herbie head Hunter bug😅. You should put a big number 53 all over it.
I’m guessing that the “no gas” caveats on the gas can are due to all the legal crap around gas can safety requirements. If they say no gas, they don’t have to do the safety junkyard, and you can use it for whatever you choose
It should be OK. Just remember that electrical devices draw current to them. Let's say if the head lamp draws 10 amps then it's only going to draw 10 amps. Voltage is the pressure. Voltage is what you have to worry about. Anything over 15v is not good for 12v systems. It's normal for the battery to read over 13v after shutting down the engine because the battery will maintain a surface charge for a while but will normalize in about an hour. The regulator was probably getting hot for lack of ground or lack of heatsink depending on the design of the regulator.
It may have been said already, but. Your original belt is an "A" belt, same V, but more narrow. Your replacement? 'B' size--wider/thicker. You need to specify 'a' size when purchasing a replacement. Or? Just grind down the 'B'... :P
What happened to the old classic background music you used to have.
I normally convert AC to DC with an electric guitar 🎸
The stator producing more current than what the regulator needs doesn't hurt anything, it only matters that the regulator doesn't pull more than what the stator can produce.
Should have kept the oil tank and either left it full with 2 stroke oil so you'd never be without oil for mixing if out on a trail etc or used the tank as an emergency fuel tank. My 2 stroke kmx125 doesn't smoke wot so ever & its oil injected infact 2 strokes shouldn't smoke if the mix is correct but people always go over the top when mixing fuel & oil . .
I built one just like this but it was a 700cc 2stroke and I had dual pulse pumps it will run better you will get more power out of it
Since you Deleted the oil injection please make sure you re-jet the carburetors! Otherwise you may end up running lean and it'll score the cylinders.
If that PTO bearing had a constant supply of oil, it would be wise to try and at least get that hooked up to receive oil pressure. That's one you may not want to chance it on when you go ripping it
Another thing I just remembered about the overheating thing. Something you might check is the condition of the cylinder walls. If you have a bore scope and pull out a spark plug to check the cylinders.
If heat was an issue, that's one of the first places to check. Check for vertical cylinder scoring. That would show that the pistons overheated.
But if it's all good it's all good
Finalmente te achei novamente, assistia a uns 3 anos mas nn lembro se era inscrito😊😊
Dont worry about the jug not being for fuel. The manufacturer has to comply with the government by telling the consumer that it's not a "government approved fuel container". It'll be fine for a fuel jug.
I wouldn't worry much, in some Asian countries they use plastic drink bottles to transport fuel ⛽
Remember straight H20 or Straight Coolant will overheat... mix it you'll be miles ahead
That pump was probably a big part of the overheating, it was roached.
The white ice stuff is aluminum corrosion from whatever nasty was in the coolant that leaked out of the broken water pump. Salts and impurities in water/coolant do that to aluminum.
Could also try a polaris VR/Rectifier... amazon has one for roughly 40 bucks
This guy sounds like he runs a carnival game
Those white spots look like oxidized aluminum from hot water spray. Maybe somewhere in the past, someone only used water instead of adding coolant. Coolant is made of ethylene glycol which adds the properties of anti-oxidant, lubrication, and changing the freezing and boiling temperature of water. If you rub coolant alone in your hands, you will not it is slippery. Both the coolant lubrication properties and anti-oxidant for the inside of the water pump. It will not take long for pure water to tear up water pump. For the bearing wear/play, make sure the belt tension is correct, but that red gunk is oxidized iron from beangs.
That's just how the get around the law that you have to have a japanese puzzle box for a pourspout.
You mounted your regulator on a big aluminum plate which is a giant heat sink thus keeping it from getting as hot as it was when it wasn’t mounted. Should be fine. Get some of that heat sink goop and it will run even cooler
The tank is just a color code thing. Red for gas, yellow for diesel, white for water/coolant..... Mark it "Mixed Gas" & all is good.
If you delete oil injection you will still need to run oil through the motor
You could use that oil tank as another gas tank.
Conspiracy theory alert on the gas container you bought. They make these types of products because of you assuming the way it is made that it is a gas container only. Once you put the fuel in there you cannot ever put water or any sort of potable source in there again. So now you have to go buy another one if you're going to use it for water. You have to really watch out what you're buying nowadays. They get you coming and going and spending a shitload of your hard-earned money. Anyways all in all what an excellent build once again.!
Did you know that if you put tinfoil on your head, you're not actually warding any energies, you're actually focusing them, because antenna. That's how radio antennas work.
But moving on, the reason these types of color coded and valved gas cans exist is because in the early 2000's dumbasses started using the lawsuit loop to make money from companies that made the old style gas cans. They'd throw fuel on fire, get caught on fire and then lawsuit. Well, that's when player number 3 came into play. Insurance companies. Now, insurance companies will do anything including a BJ on a leper to get away from paying, so what did they do? They lobbied for gas cans to be coded, have a two hand operated system AND have a trickle instead of a pour. You know, all means to make it difficult for people who need assistance in the rain so they don't drown, to throw fuel on fire, drink from gas cans that were unmarked (well, partly, there was a slew of lawsuits against gas can manufacturers because there were no clear markings and kids wound up drinking from them) etc. TLDR: soup letter agencies have nothing to do with this, this is squarely between brain dead people, judges and insurance companies. Oh and brain dead politicians who will sign anything that comes with a legal bribe. :)
@@aserta yes and there it is.
Maybe to make life easier things need to be color-coded just like yellow is diesel and red is gas and blue should be water.
I worry about putting all those things with cooling fins near header tube is going to cause failure.
25:30 🤔🤔I didn't know the 90s Polaris XLT triple had a battery😂
13:28 Backflush the rad.
If you continue to bog when doing or trying to do a donut. Your clutch is shifting to fast. On the primary clutch use different profile, less aggressive ramp on secondary less agnle on helix.
Every one deletes them on every kind of sled. No one trusts them things. It’s very expensive to rebuild a sled motor too. So the easiest way and trusted method is premix. But also. If u get a low smoke oil. You’re not going to see her chooching like cheap oil.
if the jug you bought is made from HDPE then it should be gas compatible. probably some legal issue about it not being red or having a different spout
You did not fixed all the problems, you need to put back the oil pump on that 2Stroke engine and the regulator is good, you need to mount on the ground plate on the frame to remove the heat.... Lots of love from India....
Leave the oil tank as a fuel reserve
You have aluminum oxide forming in the cover. The bar by the starter/pump cover needs to be removable for service. The pump was fried before you barbequed the bug.
Excellent project involving an amazing level of imagination! Way to go, Mr. By the way, use a lil dielectric grease on the O ring, you will be glad you did. Position the fuel line clamps so they don't rub through the coolant 'ose. Check the gas can for damage from fuel. It may be perfectly fine! It is similar to a VP Racing fuel jug, after all!! Mount the regulator to a large metal location so it can dissipate heat into that and not likely overheat.
Bro, how many ac volts does the engine give? If it is less than 70v, you can install a diode bridge, and after it install a ds-ds converter 80 to 12v from an electric bike. A cheap ds-ds converter produces 10 amps at peak. This will be enough for LED headlights and charging such a battery. A dirt bike has one piston, but this thing has three, so more amps! This converter gives a lot of amps to charge the battery and the battery can overheat and splash acid. Also because of this converter, there may not be enough voltage for good sparks. =)
amount of pistons in the engine doesn't affect the charging system... also charging and ignition circuits are separate, theres a different coil for each.
@@no.nomoreidontcare Thanks! Now I know! =)
You need dual pulse pumps for that size of motor