Bzgl. Montage der Kugellager: Zuerst den oberen Teil der Kupplung festmachen, dann das Gewicht auf die Lager drücken lassen und dann erst unten festschrauben?
Ja, den unteren Teil der Kupplung erst festziehen, wenn das Gewicht des Gantries über die Gewindestange voll darauf lastet und der obere Teil fest ist..
I had kind of the same problems. After disassembling the 2 rods i found out that in my case the Z-backlash modules were so tight i really had to put some force in it to just get the rods trough them. I replaced both modules for Cr10 anti backlash T8 modules and all my Z axis problems are gone..
This is because the motor is working at its performance limit due to its incorrect load. With mine, it is was enough to lift and support the filament tubes just a bit. The problem is the axial incorrect load, the motor could perform much greater radial load...
@@silentcorestudios In my example that was not the case as i disassebled the whole rod. I only had the rod with the baklash module in my hands and tried to turn the backlash/lead screw module. It was almost unmovable, only with excessive force. The second rod was simular. Those leadscrew/baklash modules were way too tight.. As i said, after replacing both i can put the axis up and down with easy if i turn the axis on the motor side.
Thank you! I had the same problem - the plastic parts were too tight on the thread, and I could barely move not good by hand. With the Cr10, it's much better now! I'm also going to do the bearing upgrade. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the video. Very clear and easy to follow. Any chance you could provide Amazon links to something that would work? It would make it easier for non-experts that do not understand German to source the parts. Even if not ordering from Amazon, we can use the link as a reference to source somewhere else. Many thanks!
Miniature axial ball bearings [F5-12M]-M-d1-12 [5x12x4 mm] For use in special conditions. The miniature axial bearing F5-12M-M-d1-12 is small and is suitable for mounting in limited space and on thin shafts. It absorbs loads from an axial direction and can be dismantled.
Great video - thank you. Serious question, why wouldn't you just use a single sealed bearing instead of this setup??? Seems like the open bearing unit would gather a lot of dust
Before there was just a hole and the dirt fell directly into the stepper motor. This option consists of only 2 bearings, it is an extremely simple solution, there are certainly other approaches. I will test and use it this way for now.
Thank you for the clarification, I ordered one way bearings and will be doing this. My 1st layer is all over the place even with self leveling every print hoping this is my solution
@@silentcorestudios i use 3d Printer since "Mandel" Design releases on GitHub. Over so many years, No one use axial beerings to unload z-axis wight. I will give it a shot. Possible new Anycubic steppers are Cheap Like hell.
This is a very common design, not sure i´d call it a design flaw. All 3D-printers I've owned during the last 10 years have had the same type of Z-axis design with the gantry weight on the stepper motor axle. I haven't seen a single issue related to this.
Well, it might work to a point, but the gantry became quite heavy, these days.. Design wise, its not a correct layout, the thrust bearing IS missing and it would not be the first printer suffering from this issue: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/qcwx4e/i_finally_figure_out_why_my_layers_were_uneven/?rdt=39114
There is a simpler and much more efficient solution that it is small bearing that does not solve the problem on high prints. it is the brass ring that now comes the X gantry that allow the Z axis to go up and down. at the moment you will have nothing else more efficient.
It's very cool that you took the time to make this video to help others. Thank you!
Good Job!!! Thanks for posting this to help people understand how to fix their Z Axis.
Bzgl. Montage der Kugellager: Zuerst den oberen Teil der Kupplung festmachen, dann das Gewicht auf die Lager drücken lassen und dann erst unten festschrauben?
Ja, den unteren Teil der Kupplung erst festziehen, wenn das Gewicht des Gantries über die Gewindestange voll darauf lastet und der obere Teil fest ist..
I had kind of the same problems. After disassembling the 2 rods i found out that in my case the Z-backlash modules were so tight i really had to put some force in it to just get the rods trough them. I replaced both modules for Cr10 anti backlash T8 modules and all my Z axis problems are gone..
This is because the motor is working at its performance limit due to its incorrect load. With mine, it is was enough to lift and support the filament tubes just a bit. The problem is the axial incorrect load, the motor could perform much greater radial load...
@@silentcorestudios In my example that was not the case as i disassebled the whole rod. I only had the rod with the baklash module in my hands and tried to turn the backlash/lead screw module. It was almost unmovable, only with excessive force. The second rod was simular. Those leadscrew/baklash modules were way too tight.. As i said, after replacing both i can put the axis up and down with easy if i turn the axis on the motor side.
Thank you! I had the same problem - the plastic parts were too tight on the thread, and I could barely move not good by hand. With the Cr10, it's much better now! I'm also going to do the bearing upgrade. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the video. Very clear and easy to follow. Any chance you could provide Amazon links to something that would work? It would make it easier for non-experts that do not understand German to source the parts. Even if not ordering from Amazon, we can use the link as a reference to source somewhere else. Many thanks!
Miniature axial ball bearings [F5-12M]-M-d1-12 [5x12x4 mm]
For use in special conditions. The miniature axial bearing F5-12M-M-d1-12 is small and is suitable for mounting in limited space and on thin shafts. It absorbs loads from an axial direction and can be dismantled.
The link with all the specs is in the video description..
@@silentcorestudios the link is off
@@SweetchuckIPAD2 Seems like the whole website is down for the moment..
God job friend!
Great video - thank you. Serious question, why wouldn't you just use a single sealed bearing instead of this setup??? Seems like the open bearing unit would gather a lot of dust
Before there was just a hole and the dirt fell directly into the stepper motor. This option consists of only 2 bearings, it is an extremely simple solution, there are certainly other approaches. I will test and use it this way for now.
Why they (Anacubic) dont use 2 motors for Z axis? Motor is not so expensive ...
Simpliefy Design. Dual Z-Axis need different Startup Routine to Balance the gentry.
@NetrunnerAT aaa, ok
thanks
Why 2 sets of bearings ?
Because of the needed hight, its better than using washers or other parts..
Thank you for the clarification, I ordered one way bearings and will be doing this. My 1st layer is all over the place even with self leveling every print hoping this is my solution
Did you think it solves the problem with the first layer?
Not sure, but the original design is not right, so its good to do the upgrade anyway..
@@silentcorestudios i use 3d Printer since "Mandel" Design releases on GitHub. Over so many years, No one use axial beerings to unload z-axis wight. I will give it a shot. Possible new Anycubic steppers are Cheap Like hell.
This is a very common design, not sure i´d call it a design flaw. All 3D-printers I've owned during the last 10 years have had the same type of Z-axis design with the gantry weight on the stepper motor axle. I haven't seen a single issue related to this.
Well, it might work to a point, but the gantry became quite heavy, these days.. Design wise, its not a correct layout, the thrust bearing IS missing and it would not be the first printer suffering from this issue:
www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/qcwx4e/i_finally_figure_out_why_my_layers_were_uneven/?rdt=39114
There is a simpler and much more efficient solution that it is small bearing that does not solve the problem on high prints. it is the brass ring that now comes the X gantry that allow the Z axis to go up and down. at the moment you will have nothing else more efficient.
Welcher Messingring genau?