Henry, I wish your channel was getting more traction. As someone who has struggled through a few kitchen builds I find your videos to be quite useful, straightforward and to-the-point. My cabinets always looked pretty much okay in the end, but man, lots of mistakes. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge, and I hope you make more videos.
Henry, I never usually post a comment, BUT could not let this video go by without saying thank-you. I not only learned a new trick or two , I also thoroughly enjoyed your presentation style!! Yes, I subscribed. Keep the videos coming!!! THANKS! This is a channel on the rise.
Thanks Dave I appreciate that a lot. I'm at the tail end of my career and I figured it'd be best to share some of the things I've learned over the years. And trying to have fun with it at the same time
Thanks for that I appreciate. It's interesting when you start machining correctly all the numbers that you put down on your paper seem to be always the same. That's kind of how I confirm if I know I'm doing it right is I end up with numbers that I always see
As a property manager I have spent my life repairing this style of drawer. Especially the top silverware and the heavy junk drawers. I really like your methodology, and of course this is similar to how the competition will do the budget cabinets. Nice job, but they are really not as strong as a better crafted system. The 2 nails will pull apart then often tenants or home owners will try to glue it and add screws or nails and make a mess of it. By the time I come around. My fix is to rip 1/2" or 5/8" pine usually with a circular saw on site, sister the drawer front then glue and nail the sides into real wood. Kind of rigged looking, and it kills some front space, but nothing else can be done once the particle board fails. Now I have never had one of my repairs fail. I'm watching and trying to learn cabinetry and can really appreciate your smooth operation and how comfortable you are with the math and sizing, and how efficiently your shop is set up. Thank you for posting and sharing.
Thats a really good fix for your drawers. Its better than making a new one if its a rental. They just get Beat up. Iv done some some fixes like this as well. Sometimes it just needs to work
@@henrymostert2125 thanks for saying so. I had often wished that instead of particle board, 3/4” pine was inserted as the drawer front to begin with. Glue and 3 staples at each front and I think the drawer’s longevity would equal that of other joints. Labor and all the other components being the same, wouldn’t cost much more to produce.
Thanks Richard thats very kind of you to say that. My hope is to help people with building projects for there homes with the tools that a common to own.
Rellly nice video. I build my drawers very similar. What amazes me in the consumer world is the expectation for dovetailed drawers ? I even see cheap cabinets with mdf drawers that are dovetailed ? I have an automatic dovetailer that can machine 30 boxes an hour. Then a clamp machine to assemble. Consumers are “told” in advertising that only high quality cabinets will have dovetailed drawers ? It’s so absurd with the roller bearing slides we use today. But consumers don’t take a custom cabinetmaker serious if they don’t see dovetailed drawer boxes. I have drawers that I have made using the same construction technique as you have here and the drawers have been in use well over 30 years in my shop with the most abuse and overweight and I’ve never had a drawer fail. Dovetailed drawers are more time consuming and the dovetail does look nice if someone takes the time to look at it. But kitchen and bath cabinets go in and out of style. I’ve replaced kitchen cabinets with dovetailed drawers and most times they end up in dumpsters or someone’s garage. I don’t know how we will ever educate consumers or kitchen designers that dovetail drawers are such a waste of time and money when a drawer constructed like these in your video post are just as long lasting and durable. But I still have to play to the consumers “public knowledge” that if a cabinet of any kind does not have dovetailed drawers , it’s not a quality cabinet. With the new ball bearing slides there is very little friction on the drawer box , whereas in the earlier years of cabinet construction with wood on wood slides the drawer front could pull off ,hence the reason for such a strong joint in dovetailed drawers. I offer this type of drawer that you show in your video for every kitchen or cabinet. I have to add an up charge for the dovetail drawers because of the time and equipment. It’s really sad knowing that the style of the kitchen, just like automobiles , will be go out before the cabinets or drawers will ever fail. It’s really ignorance in the custom cabinet making process. But the consumer is so engrained that without dovetailed drawers, the cabinets are inferior. What’s even more disappointing is seeing really cheap inferior cabinets that will fall apart prematurely with dovetailed drawers made from particle board or mdf just to fool the consumers into believing they are of high quality craftsmanship. I’ve been a cabinetmaker for 44 years , and I doubt the knowledge or perception of dovetailed drawers and the quality of the cabinet will change. Also , the new under mount Blum motion slides have to be 21” deep on a 24” deep cabinet. Whereas a side mount soft close can be 23 3/4” deep. But everyone wants the latest and greatest and give up almost 2” in drawer depth to get the undermount slides.
You couldn't be more right in what you said. At the end of the day all you need is something that functions and won't break. I do dovetail as an upgrade as well and it does nothing for other then apperance. I use the undermount track because thats whats expected now. A side mount ball-bearing track tends to be more static and doesn't need adjusting but they don't run as nice so they don't get used. At the end of the day i do give my opinion on the drawer and say that the dovetail is just lipstick
Excellent reply ! I love your channel ! I just watched the shaker crown molding ! That’s beautiful. You certainly think outside the box. You are very creative and you have an excellent eye for detail and proportions. I’ve been a full time cabinetmaker for 44 years ….not that it matters. But I have an idea of talent. Keep the content coming ! ☀️
I love your non nonsense real world videos. I would like to ask how you use pre finished plywood without chipout? Every time I use it the edges chip, I use the plywood CMT orange blade that cuts unfinished with no chips.
Thanks Tim I appreciate that. In all honesty I don't have the time to do production of videos. You could probably see that by the quality lol. I'm just trying to keep it as real and personal as possible. Kind of want the feel like you were in my shop right next to me and we're having discussion. The blade I use for my 10 ich table saw is a freud LU3A 0500 it has a 38 degree shear angle and a 2% back. Similar to a compound miter saw blade. I'm going to do a video soon with showing the types of blades i use 👍😀
New subscriber here - it was the tim Hortons cup in the background of one of your videos that grabbed my attention. I would really appreciate it if you could do a video on your spray booth/area. Thanks for making great content!
Thanks for that. Yes the tims cup lol. I didn't know it was in the background. I will definitely do a spray booth video. I did a small one a few months ago 😁
I have an EP2s edgebander too, mine doesnt have the feed rollers on it, that's cool to see, But I do have the trimming stations for it, and I will be probably selling in in a few months, I am going to buy an automatic machine, if you would be interested not sure where you are located in, I'm guessing somewhere in CA
Have you had your Edge bander for a long time. What kind of new one are you getting. I live near Hamilton. The thing actually I need most is the end trimming unit. Mine functions but it's not perfect. Let me know what you want for your machine
@@henrymostert2125 Still looking probably going to buy a chesia flexy, not sure yet, I don't have a huge amount of space for it and since I only use .5mm tape I don't need anything crazy. I am not sure what I will sell it for maybe $500 or less for all of it I haven't thought about it at all
Nice! I have been playing with a lot of different stiles of drawer. I just tried lock joints using 1/4 dados, that went well but is too fussy. I have tried the rebate style here too, I did pocket holes to avoid the nail holes on the show side, but, again more work (i do have a castle so not to bad), what are you filling the nail holes with and how viable is it?
Hi Seth. If I fill the holes what I do is mix up spackling compound with a water-based stain to get it close and then just wipe it in. If I was doing quality type of cabinets which I do for some clients they usually get a dovetail drawer
Great content! How do you calculate the depth and width of the drawer in relation to the under mount slides? I have 21” under mount slides and a 27” opening. I plan on using your method of 1” spacer runner, so that makes is 25”. The slides didn’t come with any instructions so I’m assuming similar to Blum they recommend 42mm less drawer width than the opening, is that right?
You are correct in that deduction. If you have a 25 inch opening that's including your 1-in spacers. Then the front and the back would be 42 mm less than that opening. Otherwise known as 1 5/8. That number is always the same no matter the width of the side of your drawer box. If I use 5/8 material for my drawer sides then the drawer when it's finished will be 3/8 less than the opening if that helps. If I was using half inch it would be half inch less than the opening.
Henry don’t you have to add to the front and back of the drawer box if your shaving off some….although it’s minimal I would think it still would throw off your measurements
Its actually the inside of the drawer that determines sizing. A little bit of adjustment is ok. You just can't take off a 1/4 inch and hope it will work
Henry, I wish your channel was getting more traction. As someone who has struggled through a few kitchen builds I find your videos to be quite useful, straightforward and to-the-point. My cabinets always looked pretty much okay in the end, but man, lots of mistakes. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge, and I hope you make more videos.
Thanks for the encouragement I appreciate that.. at the end of the day this is a community and I hopefully we can all share things to others
Henry, I never usually post a comment, BUT could not let this video go by without saying thank-you. I not only learned a new trick or two , I also thoroughly enjoyed your presentation style!! Yes, I subscribed. Keep the videos coming!!!
THANKS! This is a channel on the rise.
Thanks Dave I appreciate that a lot. I'm at the tail end of my career and I figured it'd be best to share some of the things I've learned over the years. And trying to have fun with it at the same time
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the internet Henry. You are appreciated. Cheers from Chicago.
Thanks Ben I appreciate that hopefully you can use some of these idea's
Finally, helpful content. Thank you Henry.
Thanks Samuel . Im just trying to give back what I've learned over the last 40 years. Its been fun . Thanks for watching 👍
Nice job. Machining correctly cannot be emphasized enough.
Saves so much frustration in the building and fitting phases.
Subscribed.
Thanks for that I appreciate. It's interesting when you start machining correctly all the numbers that you put down on your paper seem to be always the same. That's kind of how I confirm if I know I'm doing it right is I end up with numbers that I always see
@@henrymostert2125 Exactly!
As a property manager I have spent my life repairing this style of drawer. Especially the top silverware and the heavy junk drawers. I really like your methodology, and of course this is similar to how the competition will do the budget cabinets. Nice job, but they are really not as strong as a better crafted system. The 2 nails will pull apart then often tenants or home owners will try to glue it and add screws or nails and make a mess of it. By the time I come around. My fix is to rip 1/2" or 5/8" pine usually with a circular saw on site, sister the drawer front then glue and nail the sides into real wood. Kind of rigged looking, and it kills some front space, but nothing else can be done once the particle board fails. Now I have never had one of my repairs fail.
I'm watching and trying to learn cabinetry and can really appreciate your smooth operation and how comfortable you are with the math and sizing, and how efficiently your shop is set up.
Thank you for posting and sharing.
Thats a really good fix for your drawers. Its better than making a new one if its a rental. They just get Beat up. Iv done some some fixes like this as well. Sometimes it just needs to work
@@henrymostert2125 thanks for saying so. I had often wished that instead of particle board, 3/4” pine was inserted as the drawer front to begin with. Glue and 3 staples at each front and I think the drawer’s longevity would equal that of other joints. Labor and all the other components being the same, wouldn’t cost much more to produce.
@@Tito1984the drawers in this video are plywood and glued and nailed. A lot tougher than particle board.
Definitely skills, experience and woodworking knowledge I could only dream of. @@sethhamilton5824
Something quite serene about using motorless carpentry hand tools.
I still like using hand tools when I have an option. I have enough tools here in the shop that make a lot of noise. Thanks for watching
Sweet! Thanks so much for showing us this Henry! Really nice job :)
Glad you liked it!. Just trying to give back some of the things I've learned over the years
Thanks good tips and processes
Thank you Joseph much appreciated
Great content!
Thank you much appreciated.
Excellent video. Always enjoy a guy with all the tools and knows how to get the best out of them. Time to subscribe and hit the bell 👍🇨🇦👨🦳
Thanks Richard thats very kind of you to say that. My hope is to help people with building projects for there homes with the tools that a common to own.
Rellly nice video. I build my drawers very similar. What amazes me in the consumer world is the expectation for dovetailed drawers ? I even see cheap cabinets with mdf drawers that are dovetailed ? I have an automatic dovetailer that can machine 30 boxes an hour. Then a clamp machine to assemble. Consumers are “told” in advertising that only high quality cabinets will have dovetailed drawers ? It’s so absurd with the roller bearing slides we use today. But consumers don’t take a custom cabinetmaker serious if they don’t see dovetailed drawer boxes. I have drawers that I have made using the same construction technique as you have here and the drawers have been in use well over 30 years in my shop with the most abuse and overweight and I’ve never had a drawer fail. Dovetailed drawers are more time consuming and the dovetail does look nice if someone takes the time to look at it. But kitchen and bath cabinets go in and out of style. I’ve replaced kitchen cabinets with dovetailed drawers and most times they end up in dumpsters or someone’s garage. I don’t know how we will ever educate consumers or kitchen designers that dovetail drawers are such a waste of time and money when a drawer constructed like these in your video post are just as long lasting and durable. But I still have to play to the consumers “public knowledge” that if a cabinet of any kind does not have dovetailed drawers , it’s not a quality cabinet. With the new ball bearing slides there is very little friction on the drawer box , whereas in the earlier years of cabinet construction with wood on wood slides the drawer front could pull off ,hence the reason for such a strong joint in dovetailed drawers. I offer this type of drawer that you show in your video for every kitchen or cabinet. I have to add an up charge for the dovetail drawers because of the time and equipment. It’s really sad knowing that the style of the kitchen, just like automobiles , will be go out before the cabinets or drawers will ever fail. It’s really ignorance in the custom cabinet making process. But the consumer is so engrained that without dovetailed drawers, the cabinets are inferior. What’s even more disappointing is seeing really cheap inferior cabinets that will fall apart prematurely with dovetailed drawers made from particle board or mdf just to fool the consumers into believing they are of high quality craftsmanship. I’ve been a cabinetmaker for 44 years , and I doubt the knowledge or perception of dovetailed drawers and the quality of the cabinet will change. Also , the new under mount Blum motion slides have to be 21” deep on a 24” deep cabinet. Whereas a side mount soft close can be 23 3/4” deep. But everyone wants the latest and greatest and give up almost 2” in drawer depth to get the undermount slides.
You couldn't be more right in what you said. At the end of the day all you need is something that functions and won't break. I do dovetail as an upgrade as well and it does nothing for other then apperance. I use the undermount track because thats whats expected now. A side mount ball-bearing track tends to be more static and doesn't need adjusting but they don't run as nice so they don't get used. At the end of the day i do give my opinion on the drawer and say that the dovetail is just lipstick
Excellent reply ! I love your channel ! I just watched the shaker crown molding ! That’s beautiful. You certainly think outside the box. You are very creative and you have an excellent eye for detail and proportions. I’ve been a full time cabinetmaker for 44 years ….not that it matters. But I have an idea of talent. Keep the content coming ! ☀️
I love your non nonsense real world videos. I would like to ask how you use pre finished plywood without chipout? Every time I use it the edges chip, I use the plywood CMT orange blade that cuts unfinished with no chips.
Thanks Tim I appreciate that. In all honesty I don't have the time to do production of videos. You could probably see that by the quality lol. I'm just trying to keep it as real and personal as possible. Kind of want the feel like you were in my shop right next to me and we're having discussion. The blade I use for my 10 ich table saw is a freud LU3A 0500 it has a 38 degree shear angle and a 2% back. Similar to a compound miter saw blade. I'm going to do a video soon with showing the types of blades i use 👍😀
Simple and effective, yet could be done with simple table saw and nailer.
Thank You!
I hope this can help you. I've made thousands of drawers this way
Good vid, Bro.
Thanks I appreciate that.
New subscriber here - it was the tim Hortons cup in the background of one of your videos that grabbed my attention.
I would really appreciate it if you could do a video on your spray booth/area.
Thanks for making great content!
Thanks for that. Yes the tims cup lol. I didn't know it was in the background. I will definitely do a spray booth video. I did a small one a few months ago 😁
I have an EP2s edgebander too, mine doesnt have the feed rollers on it, that's cool to see, But I do have the trimming stations for it, and I will be probably selling in in a few months, I am going to buy an automatic machine, if you would be interested not sure where you are located in, I'm guessing somewhere in CA
Have you had your Edge bander for a long time. What kind of new one are you getting. I live near Hamilton. The thing actually I need most is the end trimming unit. Mine functions but it's not perfect. Let me know what you want for your machine
@@henrymostert2125 Still looking probably going to buy a chesia flexy, not sure yet, I don't have a huge amount of space for it and since I only use .5mm tape I don't need anything crazy. I am not sure what I will sell it for maybe $500 or less for all of it I haven't thought about it at all
Nice! I have been playing with a lot of different stiles of drawer. I just tried lock joints using 1/4 dados, that went well but is too fussy. I have tried the rebate style here too, I did pocket holes to avoid the nail holes on the show side, but, again more work (i do have a castle so not to bad), what are you filling the nail holes with and how viable is it?
Hi Seth. If I fill the holes what I do is mix up spackling compound with a water-based stain to get it close and then just wipe it in. If I was doing quality type of cabinets which I do for some clients they usually get a dovetail drawer
Great content!
How do you calculate the depth and width of the drawer in relation to the under mount slides?
I have 21” under mount slides and a 27” opening. I plan on using your method of 1” spacer runner, so that makes is 25”. The slides didn’t come with any instructions so I’m assuming similar to Blum they recommend 42mm less drawer width than the opening, is that right?
You are correct in that deduction. If you have a 25 inch opening that's including your 1-in spacers. Then the front and the back would be 42 mm less than that opening. Otherwise known as 1 5/8. That number is always the same no matter the width of the side of your drawer box. If I use 5/8 material for my drawer sides then the drawer when it's finished will be 3/8 less than the opening if that helps. If I was using half inch it would be half inch less than the opening.
Henry, how did you and where did you get your $500 CEHISA edgebander? Great find!
i
I found it on market place. they wanted 1000 for it but let it go for i think 500 . i didn't even have to ask they offered it
Thanks for the info!@@henrymostert2125
Henry don’t you have to add to the front and back of the drawer box if your shaving off some….although it’s minimal I would think it still would throw off your measurements
Its actually the inside of the drawer that determines sizing. A little bit of adjustment is ok. You just can't take off a 1/4 inch and hope it will work