Nice job! The tool to measure the flyback windings is known as a "ring tester." I also would not have replaced the HOT if the original was testing ok/not shorted because there's no guarantee the replacement would have been good or be any better, but that's just me. As far as the brightness being too high, I was sitting here saying out loud "the screen pot is all the way up," then you said it was maxed out and I was like "See, I told you," lol. Having the screen pot all the way up won't usually damage anything, You can turn it down and be fine. The proper adjustment would be to... 1) Turn brightness/contrast all the way down. 2) Turn the screen pot up until the retrace lines appear 3) Turn the screen pot back down until the retrace lines JUST disappear 4) Adjust brightness/contrast as necessary. That should be it. Again, nice job.
An all time classic monitor I used to play endless hours viewing it at a friends Amiga! Very nice work even with limited tools, sometimes you have to work with all you have available, I remembered its sharp and vivid coloured picture when saw it here with Acorn OS.. Philips made great crts back then. Cheers from Greece, keep up, Jim.
Hi Tony, well done mate, the CRT is just a big valve that you can actually see the beam flowing, the "Screen" control sets the votage on the screen grid, higher the voltage, higher the brightness. Bob .UK
Literally nothing, of what you have present in your "I don´t all the tools here that I have at home" workplace, I have at home :D. It would be interesting if you could give us a tour of the different tools you use to analyze and repair electronics. Additionally, it would be helpful to know what you consider to be the minimum essential tools for this type of work. I really enjoy commenting on your videos and hope that the TH-cam algorithms discover your channel!
I've changed dozens of flybacks on Commodore monitors. For some reason only known to the manufacturer those HRDiemen replacement flybacks have the screen control knob turned up ALL the way from factory testing. I've seen it on all the flybacks I've replaced (dozens). You must turn it all the way down and then adjust the front controls brightness knob to the middle position then adjust the screen control knob up until the raster lines are just not visible. The full brightness is over 20000 volts to the neck board and will damage the monitor if left on for too long.
It looks like this is almost identical to my Commodore 1084S-P. I have two I need to replace power switches on. So this video may be very helpful! Thanks.
Indeed Commodore based their 1084 on a Philips chassis. There are many variations but that was a very successful monitor re-badged by many other manufacturers. Spoiler: it's failed again and it's back to my shop, watch this space :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Thanks! Still not ready to start working on them, but learning about every precaution also from videos from Adrian`s Digital Basement. For the moment doing basic testing and restorations and sharing a bit in my small channel :) (not under this username but under The Stranded Quarian)
The clicking / crackling really sounded like the aquadag coating on the CRT was not connected to ground on the PCB. Connection is made via metal straps held firmly in place with springs, and then a wire + plug into the PCB. Safety is always important - and better safe than electrocuted, but the G2 ("brightness) and G3 (focus) adjustment screws on the flyback transformer is perfectly safe to adjust with an insulated screwdriver.
Thank you! I am told that the clicking was the "X-Ray" protection engaging because the SCREEN was too high! Scary! I understand the importance of grounding the tube and I believe I didn't forget anything that time - at least I didn't notice! You're not the first one mentioning that those controls can be operated with normal screwdrivers but as you say, better safe than sorry! But thanks for pointing that out!
Good work! I personally do not miss CRTs, but I'm still very glad some people take good care of them, and preserve matching monitors for old gear! Looking forward to more parts of this Museum series! (Yes, this is the "hey Algorithm, I like this channel" message. :) )
@@tony359 Well, I guess that there are not many old monitors around (and I am trying to find some more). A warning is always good. Another excellent video Tony !!!!
it's not easy at all! Most of my projects are done in weeks, I might need parts, I might give up for a while, I might be looking into schematics... :) Thank you!
I'm sorry Tony but the screen and the focus controls are both designed to be adjusted by any tool usually a screwdriver of the correct size, they were sometimes accessible from the exterior of some models. The impedance of the focus and screen supply is very high and not dangerous. But to be careful is wise.
Absolutely, better safe than sorry. Sticking a metal tool into a live monitor with high voltage around would make me feel nervous. Thanks for your comment!
Where do you order the flyback, also still have a none working Philips monitor for which I expect it is the flyback, nice that you made a video about it…
A typical issue of old CRT monitors, difficult is to find a compatible flyback and for sure power buttons. Video is interesting but I am afraid about risk of shock at servicing CRT monitors. 😅
I think you are right sir, seeing a CRT probably brings a lot of nice memories back, but having a monster on one’s desk would probably not be fun! This causes no contradiction in my head though )))
Agh! Reminds me this th-cam.com/video/38jQtb0LAhA/w-d-xo.html (00:48) How does that work? What were those clicks I was hearing? Spark gaps? Thank you for watching!
hey Tony, please, tell me if 13v on the 12v rail is way too much. i have an ATX 1.0 (the only one and 3x AT PSUs) JNC 200W PSU and with the voltmeter it showed me 13v and a peak of 13.3v. I really don't want to burn my 2003 year PC. great video, as usual :)
I wouldn't expect voltage to go UP under load to be honest. But it does sound a bit high. Whether it might cause damage I don't know but old computers rely more on 5V than 12V. 12V was used by HDDs to spin the platters. So maybe not so critical. But I cannot be 100% sure I'm afraid.
Hello, I'm repairing an identical monitor, with an identical fault (high pitched whine, no picture). I've bought the flyback transformer you link to, but do you have a link to the transistor, please?
Hi - we bought it from the same shop! I think they have a few types available, you might want to get in touch with them for advise! I hope you can fix it!
😎Cool, so now you know more about crt's.👍 Now we just need you to STOP using that Knife so Dangerously. Always Clamp the Workpiece, so you can use Two Hands to Guide the Sharp Edge Away from You ! Imagine how silly you will feel, explaining your accident to the nurse at A&E... 😢
"I was fixing an old CRT monitor while shooting a video for my youtube channel and..." "Psychiatric yard, next!" :D I appreciate your concerns, I do! I'll be careful. I know it doesn't look like that but holding the knife like that gives me a pretty good control. If the knife slips on the workpiece, the body of the knife hits my thumb and the blade stops there. Without the thumb as a "failsafe stop" it would be dangerous for sure! Your way is also great though. I need a desk vice though! :) Thanks for watching!
Poundland, or someother cheap'o craft store. It's a green coloured vice with rubber pads that can be fitted as needed. Clamps onto the edge of the bench as required. Sits on a "ball joint" like certain camera tripods.
Hi - I made a short video some time ago! I'm told it's not super accurate but it should answer your question! th-cam.com/video/38jQtb0LAhA/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching!
I need to get one for that desk indeed - however the fume was not coming on my face as it looks from the video! :) Thanks for mentioning that, appreciated!
@@tony359 haha agreed! Have to clean a couple of CRTs here myself. I'm always afraid they will explode or something crazy. Thanks for making these videos. They are of the best in my opinion :)
Nice job! The tool to measure the flyback windings is known as a "ring tester." I also would not have replaced the HOT if the original was testing ok/not shorted because there's no guarantee the replacement would have been good or be any better, but that's just me. As far as the brightness being too high, I was sitting here saying out loud "the screen pot is all the way up," then you said it was maxed out and I was like "See, I told you," lol. Having the screen pot all the way up won't usually damage anything, You can turn it down and be fine. The proper adjustment would be to...
1) Turn brightness/contrast all the way down.
2) Turn the screen pot up until the retrace lines appear
3) Turn the screen pot back down until the retrace lines JUST disappear
4) Adjust brightness/contrast as necessary.
That should be it. Again, nice job.
So speaks a man who has repaired a LOT of monitors! 😁
Congratulations for the helping museum!!! Awesome job as always
Thank you!
Nice job, Tony! I share your caution when working with CRTs and was impressed with your diagnosis of the flyback transformer.
Thank you!
An all time classic monitor I used to play endless hours viewing it at a friends Amiga! Very nice work even with limited tools, sometimes you have to work with all you have available, I remembered its sharp and vivid coloured picture when saw it here with Acorn OS.. Philips made great crts back then.
Cheers from Greece, keep up, Jim.
Hello there - the Acorn OS is amazing! I was so impressed by that little machine! Thanks for your comment!
Excellent Video.....Repairing CRTs is a rare art for sure....🙂
Also very scary :) Thanks for watching!
Another great video
Thank you!
Hi Tony, well done mate, the CRT is just a big valve that you can actually see the beam flowing, the "Screen" control sets the votage on the screen grid, higher the voltage, higher the brightness. Bob .UK
Thank you Bob!
I believe this is the one you were trying to fix whilst I was next door. Great vid chap!
If you heard a loud BANG yes, that was me :D Thank you!! :)
Nice work!
Thank you for watching!
Your repair videos are so soothing. 100K subscribers in 3 2 1 go....
ahaha finger crossed! :D Thank you!
Nice work, Tony! We all can learn as we go, and be more comfortable with what we are doing. It's great that you are helping out the museum.
Thank you! Yes, it's pretty rewarding to be able to bring back to life those machines and then see people enjoying them!
Literally nothing, of what you have present in your "I don´t all the tools here that I have at home" workplace, I have at home :D. It would be interesting if you could give us a tour of the different tools you use to analyze and repair electronics. Additionally, it would be helpful to know what you consider to be the minimum essential tools for this type of work. I really enjoy commenting on your videos and hope that the TH-cam algorithms discover your channel!
This is a very good idea I think! Thank you! I'll put it on my list!
And thanks for your comment!
I'm really enjoying your content Tony. Keep it coming! CRT's are something that make me very paranoid.
Oh me too, CRTs scare me a lot! :) I somehow think they could explode all of the sudden! Thank you for watching!
I've changed dozens of flybacks on Commodore monitors. For some reason only known to the manufacturer those HRDiemen replacement flybacks have the screen control knob turned up ALL the way from factory testing. I've seen it on all the flybacks I've replaced (dozens). You must turn it all the way down and then adjust the front controls brightness knob to the middle position then adjust the screen control knob up until the raster lines are just not visible. The full brightness is over 20000 volts to the neck board and will damage the monitor if left on for too long.
Ouch! Thanks for that! I feel like Mulhouse with the XRay machine! Thankfully I found out pretty quickly! Thanks for that!
I'm just amazed at your ability (or is it luck?) finding parts for that CRT. A new flyback AND a new switch? What kind of wizardry is this?
ahah - there is a website selling those parts. It's linked in the description. But you can call me Gandalf if you want :) Thanks for watching!
@@tony359Where's your magic wand? Ahum.... I mean your high voltage probe like Adrian Black 😜😅
I bought it ages ago, never got the guts to test it LOL! But it's in another country now!
Really enjoyed that blast from the past, don't miss working on crt's but it was a bit of top nostalgia to see you work and repair it Tony.
Glad it brought some good memories back up! Thanks for watching!
It looks like this is almost identical to my Commodore 1084S-P. I have two I need to replace power switches on. So this video may be very helpful! Thanks.
Indeed Commodore based their 1084 on a Philips chassis. There are many variations but that was a very successful monitor re-badged by many other manufacturers. Spoiler: it's failed again and it's back to my shop, watch this space :)
Thanks for watching!
Amazing! I`m including some CRT with "mino" faults iun my collection so I have learning material once I dive in that, learning a lot from here!
Amazing! I forgot to add a safety disclaimer to this video! Be careful with CRTs, they have deadly voltages inside! But good luck!
@@tony359 Thanks! Still not ready to start working on them, but learning about every precaution also from videos from Adrian`s Digital Basement. For the moment doing basic testing and restorations and sharing a bit in my small channel :) (not under this username but under The Stranded Quarian)
Thank you for this video Tony!
❤
Hello there! Thank you!
Well done!
Thank you!
The clicking / crackling really sounded like the aquadag coating on the CRT was not connected to ground on the PCB. Connection is made via metal straps held firmly in place with springs, and then a wire + plug into the PCB.
Safety is always important - and better safe than electrocuted, but the G2 ("brightness) and G3 (focus) adjustment screws on the flyback transformer is perfectly safe to adjust with an insulated screwdriver.
Thank you! I am told that the clicking was the "X-Ray" protection engaging because the SCREEN was too high! Scary! I understand the importance of grounding the tube and I believe I didn't forget anything that time - at least I didn't notice!
You're not the first one mentioning that those controls can be operated with normal screwdrivers but as you say, better safe than sorry! But thanks for pointing that out!
Excellent work!
Thank you!
Good job!
Thank you!
Thanks Tony.
Thank you for watching!
Good work! I personally do not miss CRTs, but I'm still very glad some people take good care of them, and preserve matching monitors for old gear! Looking forward to more parts of this Museum series! (Yes, this is the "hey Algorithm, I like this channel" message. :) )
ahah thank you so much!
Not a fan of working on CRTs either. Particularly big ones! But someone has to fix those doorstops apparently... ;)
great video again!appreciate your skill how you make this an easy fix. thanks for the video.
Thank you for your kind words!
Nice video as always
Thank you!!
Thank you! I like crt repair videos, do it more please 😊
Next time one fails! :) Thanks for watching!
Ottimo canale e ottimo lavoro come sempre!
Grazie Egregio! :)
Good job!. I would really like to learn, as I have one monitor non working and need to fix it. For the moment, security lessons learnt.
I forgot to add a safety disclaimer with this video! Be careful, CRTs are nasty, the High Voltage can go up to 30.000 Volts! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 Well, I guess that there are not many old monitors around (and I am trying to find some more). A warning is always good. Another excellent video Tony !!!!
Very entertaining! Thank you! ❤
Thank you!
Well done another monitor saved from the skip.
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
I love this channel!
Thank you!!
Enjoyed it!
Great, thanks for watching!
Good idea. I've learned that if I wait until my project is 100% complete to make a video, I never get the videos uploaded. 😂
it's not easy at all! Most of my projects are done in weeks, I might need parts, I might give up for a while, I might be looking into schematics... :) Thank you!
@@tony359 yeah I know the feeling. Keep up the good work!
I'm sorry Tony but the screen and the focus controls are both designed to be adjusted by any tool usually a screwdriver of the correct size, they were sometimes accessible from the exterior of some models.
The impedance of the focus and screen supply is very high and not dangerous.
But to be careful is wise.
Absolutely, better safe than sorry. Sticking a metal tool into a live monitor with high voltage around would make me feel nervous. Thanks for your comment!
Where do you order the flyback, also still have a none working Philips monitor for which I expect it is the flyback, nice that you made a video about it…
Hi there - the link is in the description (I should have mentioned that in the video!). It's in Ireland and they're specialised in CRT! Good luck!
A typical issue of old CRT monitors, difficult is to find a compatible flyback and for sure power buttons. Video is interesting but I am afraid about risk of shock at servicing CRT monitors. 😅
Oh I'm scared too! I prefer working on something else for sure! 😅 Thanks for watching!
Nice!
Thanks!
Of someone told me 20 years ago that I would miss CRT monitors in 20 years.. )))
I'm not sure I do to be honest! LOL! That said I'd love to have a 15" Sony as I used to when I was a teenager :)
I think you are right sir, seeing a CRT probably brings a lot of nice memories back, but having a monster on one’s desk would probably not be fun!
This causes no contradiction in my head though )))
ahah exactly!
Too high screen voltage, then too high beam current, and the beam current (or “X-Ray”) protection circuit triggers. Nice job!
Agh! Reminds me this th-cam.com/video/38jQtb0LAhA/w-d-xo.html (00:48)
How does that work? What were those clicks I was hearing? Spark gaps?
Thank you for watching!
hey Tony, please, tell me if 13v on the 12v rail is way too much. i have an ATX 1.0 (the only one and 3x AT PSUs) JNC 200W PSU and with the voltmeter it showed me 13v and a peak of 13.3v. I really don't want to burn my 2003 year PC. great video, as usual :)
13V with nothing attached to it COULD be ok. Can you plug an HDD you don't care about and measure again?
@@tony359 just checked, with the voltmeter (not a good one i might add): PC in standby 12.8 - 12.9v, PC under load in 3DM2001SE: 13-13.2v
I wouldn't expect voltage to go UP under load to be honest. But it does sound a bit high. Whether it might cause damage I don't know but old computers rely more on 5V than 12V. 12V was used by HDDs to spin the platters. So maybe not so critical. But I cannot be 100% sure I'm afraid.
@@tony359 i only have on the 12v line a 12cm fan 1000rpm and the sd to ide adapter, that's all. tnx for the answer, Tony
Hello, I'm repairing an identical monitor, with an identical fault (high pitched whine, no picture). I've bought the flyback transformer you link to, but do you have a link to the transistor, please?
Hi - we bought it from the same shop! I think they have a few types available, you might want to get in touch with them for advise! I hope you can fix it!
😎Cool, so now you know more about crt's.👍
Now we just need you to STOP using that Knife so Dangerously.
Always Clamp the Workpiece, so you can use Two Hands to Guide the Sharp Edge Away from You !
Imagine how silly you will feel, explaining your accident to the nurse at A&E... 😢
"I was fixing an old CRT monitor while shooting a video for my youtube channel and..."
"Psychiatric yard, next!"
:D
I appreciate your concerns, I do! I'll be careful. I know it doesn't look like that but holding the knife like that gives me a pretty good control. If the knife slips on the workpiece, the body of the knife hits my thumb and the blade stops there. Without the thumb as a "failsafe stop" it would be dangerous for sure!
Your way is also great though. I need a desk vice though! :)
Thanks for watching!
Poundland, or someother cheap'o craft store.
It's a green coloured vice with rubber pads that can be fitted as needed.
Clamps onto the edge of the bench as required.
Sits on a "ball joint" like certain camera tripods.
I see what you mean. Probably useful. At home I have a metal one but the pivoting one sounds more useful!
I like this channel YT!
Thank you!!
how does a current limiter work ?
Hi - I made a short video some time ago! I'm told it's not super accurate but it should answer your question! th-cam.com/video/38jQtb0LAhA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
Great work 👌👏👍
Use fumes extractor, leaded solder fumes is too harmful☣️☢️⚠️
I need to get one for that desk indeed - however the fume was not coming on my face as it looks from the video! :) Thanks for mentioning that, appreciated!
@@tony359 you welcome 🤗
Use lead free until you get one
@@tony359 you welcome 🤗
Use lead free until you get one
@@tony359 you welcome 🤗
Use lead free until you get one
I understand your fear for CRTs. They ARE scary as shit...
They are! I feel more comfortable with tiny ones. Big ones? No. :D Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 haha agreed! Have to clean a couple of CRTs here myself. I'm always afraid they will explode or something crazy. Thanks for making these videos. They are of the best in my opinion :)
Same here, that's why I take TWO steps back when powering them up LOL! Thanks for the nice words!
How to identify a Philips monitor:
Does the power switch work? Not a Philips.
ahahahaha yes I hear it's a common fault!
Those crackling sounds when you go to test your repair don't sound very reassuring! I'd be panicked and immediately cut power.
Absolutely! I’m told 😮 it’s XRay protection as the tube was being overdriven by the ‘screen’ control set at maximum! 😳
Thanks for watching!