Hi, Looks Good. To make these really useful you need to have sectioned Punches & Dies of varying widths. Also if the smaller V's are closer to the edge you can get a shorter leg to a reverse fold.
Yep exactly. I have another sectioned punch on 10, 15, 20, 40, 50, 80, 2x100 mm width so I can make different combinations when folding small boxes, etc.
Go ahead you won't regret it. I am using it all the time. If you didn't watch the videos of my Navara build series. Check them and see for yourself.. th-cam.com/video/lYj3bCHYfJQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/lBNvOv8oa-A/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/pd0TZ6MmaFs/w-d-xo.html
Came in mooching a few ideas for my latest project , liked the music , are those linear bearings ? Had similar idea using MC fork legs , what ever lies around ! Subbed
Loving what I see, so far, and based on that I subbed after only partial viewing, for craftsmanship, ambition, and engineering! Only this: at 3:20, could thee not have taken up so much of the slop with only a few nylon zip ties around those lugs? Or even simply tapped the existing lugs, without rebuilding? I find that I must constantly struggle with my own compulsion to complicate, as I plan and daydream. No question, though, thy solution is rock solid and foolproof.
looking at the prices for the sizes of steel he used he mightve been better off buying a full size stand alone fingerbrake (though this on is able to bend thicker steel)
u have made very nice machine to make cheap but this is for small job can we do 3 mm and 2500 mm long sheet bend? how many ton jack and hydrolic cylinder power need advice me i want to make thank you
Generally, the formula for air-bending press is: F= (S² x 2 x R) / (1.4 x V) = ........Ton/m F - is the force to bend one linear meter S - Thickness of the sheet material R - is the tensile strength of the material ( mild steel 40-45kg/mm², Alluminium 20-25 kg/mm², Stainless steel 60-70kg/mm²) V - is the opening of the press die. You calculate this based on the thickness of the material you bend. For 0.5-3mm sheet V =6xS, for 3-8mm sheet V=8xS, for 9-10mm sheet V=10xS . So in your case for 3mm sheet metal V=6x3= 18mm opening of the die.
The expensive bits were the punch and dies. The rest is the price of the metal and what the machine shop would charge you to mill the base, punch holder, and the bearing plates.
I disagree. Taking stock and prints to a machine shop for custom machining is still 100% DIY. Nobody owns every tool, the largest shops will still sub certain work out...
less chance of binding if you bend something at the corners of the machine. Also if I was to buy the steel for the shafts and the collars and pay a machine shop to turn them on a lathe I would end up even with what I paid for the bearings and the shafts that are heat-treated and precision ground.
Hi, Looks Good. To make these really useful you need to have sectioned Punches & Dies of varying widths. Also if the smaller V's are closer to the edge you can get a shorter leg to a reverse fold.
Yep exactly. I have another sectioned punch on 10, 15, 20, 40, 50, 80, 2x100 mm width so I can make different combinations when folding small boxes, etc.
Very nice, and great video!👍🏻
Very interesting your video, thank for your explanation, from La Serena, Chile
You surely impressed me and inspired me to build my own tool.
Go ahead you won't regret it. I am using it all the time. If you didn't watch the videos of my Navara build series. Check them and see for yourself..
th-cam.com/video/lYj3bCHYfJQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/lBNvOv8oa-A/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/pd0TZ6MmaFs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks the world needs more persons like you
Came in mooching a few ideas for my latest project , liked the music , are those linear bearings ? Had similar idea using MC fork legs , what ever lies around ! Subbed
Can you give a list of the parts you purchased and where you purchased them from?
Thank You for sharing this video. Keep doing great work.
Loving what I see, so far, and based on that I subbed after only partial viewing, for craftsmanship, ambition, and engineering!
Only this: at 3:20, could thee not have taken up so much of the slop with only a few nylon zip ties around those lugs? Or even simply tapped the existing lugs, without rebuilding? I find that I must constantly struggle with my own compulsion to complicate, as I plan and daydream. No question, though, thy solution is rock solid and foolproof.
Great job on this. A good brake would be the perfect metal working partner for my powertig welder.
Where did you get the hydraulic ram at, was hoping it was in the description so I could order one, thanks for vid, hope to get a response, tks
Super nice job brother. Most impressive.
We want to buy this machine.. Can you tell detail
looking at the prices for the sizes of steel he used he mightve been better off buying a full size stand alone fingerbrake (though this on is able to bend thicker steel)
Very good like it a lot
Muito bom parabéns.
Jumped to 4:52 just to take a look what's happening. Heard the horrible music and came to type this. Now I'll be on my way.
Best sheet bending machine vídeo ever
gracias por compartir tus conocimiento
Well that certainly was easy!
this is a very good precisie tool for you press y see it is an good quality good luck and make much work with him
Thanks ,I use the press all the time.
Impressive.
u have made very nice machine to make cheap but this is for small job can we do 3 mm and 2500 mm long sheet bend? how many ton jack and hydrolic cylinder power need advice me i want to make thank you
Generally, the formula for air-bending press is:
F= (S² x 2 x R) / (1.4 x V) = ........Ton/m
F - is the force to bend one linear meter
S - Thickness of the sheet material
R - is the tensile strength of the material ( mild steel 40-45kg/mm², Alluminium 20-25 kg/mm², Stainless steel 60-70kg/mm²)
V - is the opening of the press die. You calculate this based on the thickness of the material you bend. For 0.5-3mm sheet V =6xS, for 3-8mm sheet V=8xS, for 9-10mm sheet V=10xS . So in your case for 3mm sheet metal V=6x3= 18mm opening of the die.
doing well
Amazing work
this is a good job welldone
hello, great job.
can you tell me the code of the punch and die thanks.
Go to www.pktooling.com/ and choose what you need.
The die I am using is 85 degree: Code 20.670
The punch is again 85 degree: Code 12.810
@@bobbysplace7993 may i have the code number for the punch holder? thank you! :D
Very nice!
Thank you very helpfull video
Please can i know the company that u buy your die from ??
pktooling.com......I've designed the machine to use the euro-style tooling aka tooling for Amada brake press.
cant argue with that but a tad difficult to off set the tooling
How much press punch
Grande bellissimo complimenti
How much was that. Looked super nice
The expensive bits were the punch and dies. The rest is the price of the metal and what the machine shop would charge you to mill the base, punch holder, and the bearing plates.
Very Nice, Thanks for sharing
Tenes planos y medidas de esa bestialidad, felicitaciones
Don't think I would call this home made. A lot of parts machined elsewhere.
PLEASE WRITE TOOLING ADRESS SOME WORK EASY
Спасибо.
Good job, irritating music though.
What is the degree? Top & bottom tool
88 degrees
@@bobbysplace7993 accurate 90degree square i get it? In 0.5,0.8 metal sheet?
@@sarvashiva2564 Just google "Air bending vs Bottom bending vs Coining". They are some great articles that will give you answers.
@@bobbysplace7993 tank u brother
It would be nice if he would explain what he is doing instead of us listening to head banger music.
I thought its all self-explanatory. But thanks for the comment. Note taken!
Came here for the metal
Stayed for the music
Thank you! Nice!
Andarilho
Upload calculation chart
Check Bobbys place Facebook page: facebook.com/bobbysplace999/
Where did you get the prisma and the brake tool?
The punch and the die from pktooling.com
👍👍👍👏👏👏
DIY? Over half of it was premanufactured parts.
I disagree. Taking stock and prints to a machine shop for custom machining is still 100% DIY. Nobody owns every tool, the largest shops will still sub certain work out...
To much work,,can do much more simpel
That's cheating. All you did was make a "jig" for an existing machine. Make one from scrap
go back to drawing leprechauns kid.
Fantastic work, I can't believe no one's commented yet!
Anyway, here goes, what prompted you to use linear bearings for this build?
less chance of binding if you bend something at the corners of the machine. Also if I was to buy the steel for the shafts and the collars and pay a machine shop to turn them on a lathe I would end up even with what I paid for the bearings and the shafts that are heat-treated and precision ground.