Thank you Ironhorse for your wisdom. I fix everything and engineer new parts when needed because Alaska is a rough place on equipment. You are enlightening me so much on engines and theory. I’m also applying this to radio controlled gas airplanes, my grandpa was a plane mechanic in ww2 and Korea , he would have loved a conversation with you if he was still around. Much love and respect, god bless you Ironhorse
Harvey sounds to me as a lot of old Swedish gurus on these subjects like Folke Mannerstedt, Nisse Hedlund and "The Professor" Harry Lundberger and others. I'm 63 and had the pleasure to meet the last one. Most of them have worked with or at Husqvarna factory with their two and four stroke race engines for mc-racers, crossbikes, race boats and you name it. I'm glad TH-cam can save this knowledge! Thanks!
Love what you guys are cooking up. Many years ago I raced karts with Mcculloch engines that had three carbs. Yup..dual intake on the top and one carb on the base. If that wasn't enough already we ran it on methanol. Yahoo!!
Greetings from Central NH (Lakes Region) - Harvey, you are awesome in how you are approaching this challenge. Great to watch the progression and the results you and Cullen are achieving. I am really impressed with the increased torque and RPM without you burning up the saw or having to drastically modify the bearings. Thanks for the high level of detail. Looking forward to the next video.
About 20 years ago there was a company building "turbo cranks" for snowmobile engines. Same idea as yours basically they drilled holes on angles and it was supposed to make a big difference but I never personally saw one in action. Their adds were in Snow-Tech magazines I believe.
Really Great stuff! You talk with an acivied knowlege as a 2 stroke master, Your sun Said a True thing : probably Your idea of using part of Power stroke for Doing pumping in the crankase can work but shortly Your crankase Will be covered of unburned oil, from wave Point of wiev it can work. I want give you an Little advise: cilynder offset cause an asimmetryc intake duratin, check it, you Will found same more degree in Advance or viceversa. About crankshaft, i saw something similar in a tuned engine here in italy. If i found it i send a link. I Will follow your great stuff! Sorry for my English... Ciao
Werry nice film again Thank you for sharing this I am gona build a 372 for myself and Have already used a lot of info of your films Greatings from the Netherlands. Ps.sorry for my poor english.
Fantastic concepts Harvey. I can share some thoughts. How about instead of moving the cylinder center, angling the cylinder forward? This would require a cylinder adapter but has some benefits. Reduce strain on the piston due to angle, utilize cylinder studs, allow the transfer air to be straightened, this will benefit the direction on the crank mods, allow more room for carbs. I also believe there are options in pistons such a forged Wiseco. These are proven in boosted engines. I could go on with some other thoughts if you want to discuss. am a Quality Engineer with a background in Mechanical Engineering.
I love it, and hello Cullen glad to see you more involved in this. Iron horse it would be cool to see these saws go on a dyno that you build for year 2. Not shure anyone has done that, and if it’s possible $ wise. Just a thought. Have a great day!
Wow Harvey this is gonna be so cool to follow this build. Cant wait to see the 266 of Hogans run. Genius status right there friends. Keep up the great work buddy. Love it man. Hey Cullen great to see ya bud. 🌲❤🌲✊
Well that sounds fun, better put some bulletproof titanium bearings in that thing 😁. I had an idea while you were talking about the crank mods. What if instead of cutting slots you drill holes from the outer corners of the crank weights (close to the transfer openings in the case) and those holes exit into the space between the weights/crank. As the weights pass by the transfers the venturi effect of the air mix being pushed up should suck air through those holes and from the dead area in the centre. Well in my head that works anyway 🤔
"I know how to get the #'s, but don't know how they affect the saw" -- AMEN!! I made & used a timing wheel when doing my 1st project (cs590, went well!), but TBH I only did "because I was supposed to", I took my #'s but - if those #'s were 5 or 15* different than what I'd measured - I wouldn't have even understood the difference (I know my #'s were accurate, I just mean "they're still greek to me") Have been dying to find "meta/advanced/theory" talk on #'s, I mean it's almost an objective statement "raising exhaust roof will speed-up the saw, as well as lower its compression, as well as increase blowdown" but, hell, look at a carb's tuning, if you just alter 1 of the 3 screws, you usually need to set the other 2 a lil to 'match' & harmonize things, I have NO doubt that there's a bunch of critical "ratios&rules" that us at-home, reverse-engineering porters are just blind to (I just can't shake the memory of measuring my 590 cylinder and finding that the smaller intake port actually had 50% more window-height, like almost 50.00% more than the exhaust port height inside the cylinder, could not believe that ratio was 'by chance', but there's gotta be a bunch of others I wish some stihl/husq designers would toss us a bone and do a "Reddit AMA" session so the porting-community could ask all the difficult Q's!!) [btw Tinman mentioned doing another 'meta / theory' series of "Cutaway videos" in his recent 590-update video, may be worth talking to him & seeing if you guys can't run things side-by-side because he's better for 'basic entry level' and you're more advanced, would be epic if you guys had a "5 part series: intake/exhaust/chamfer/transfers/squish/compression" each, wherein his are "the basics" and yours TAKE AS ASSUMED (put it in the description even!) that anyone watching IS 100% fully understanding every iota of Tinman's corresponding video, before watching your more-advanced, that would be epic for new porters!!!] [[PS-- If/When you do go doing timing/theory/meta/what-#'s-mean talk, I'd urge you to not only talk the relationships but -- just before the 8min mark of this video -- you speak of "a work build".....I'm gonna wager that the OVERWHELMING majority of potential-porters are not weekend warriors but, in fact, daily tree-guys like myself...and 1 thing I HATE is that there's *never* talk of which types of tunes/ports/tweaks are good/bad for the saw, for instance gaining power by un-plugging a corked OEM muffler is "easy-on-engine" power, whereas power via a gasket-delete or other compression-bump is inherently harder on the internals....I'm happy to push my cs590 to its limits, but am doing my aftermarket-660's WAY more conservatively, w/ a mindset of "I want to recreate & optimize the OEM param's, not 'improve upon' them!", but the only thing I can even think of is "gains via compression are *probably* harder on the engine than gains via speed" :P
Absolutely love these ideas your putting out there,I came across this video after searching for 2 stroke supercharger and rotary valve mods.. I'd love if you could give some input with these ideas on the 2 stroke minarelli based engines, Specially with the crankshaft supercharger airflow mods and the exhaust tube scavenging etc..
Jug spacer and a longer rod would change the angularity giving it more balls and less revs with less side loading . Also (maybe), create a higher charge pressure. That would need the tube boost to take full advantage. Just a thought in between power outages in the snow.
I think the world is full of people who have amazing ideas and skills with no avenue or funds to show them...........it could absolutely be done! You know they say it takes a village to raise a nut, well imagine that village all having the same desire to make the nut work and change the world of chainsaws as we know it!
Hey Mr Harv and Cullin. You could drill holes and add brass dowel pieces to keep weight up on the crank might help with vibration when you cut I tried it in a torque build but lost a bearing in a few cords anyway but may work for your experiment. Thanks you guys
You mentioned that a lot of 2 stroke developement has occurred recently... Well last year I rode a 1929 Scott Motorcycle... They had 600cc twin cylinders, watercooled, with disk-valve induction, even then. What did hold them back was the quality of Petrol that they had in the 1930s. Modern fuel and lubrication is so much better these days..... Best of luck with the venturiis..
That's a good idea. Cant wait to c if it works. Now u would probably have to lighten the back end of the crank to balance it out right. Ur going BIG on this 1 👍🏽
HEY HARVEY 038 MAG HAS TWO STEP IN CASE BOTTOM OF TRANS ;i 45 the two steps and filled with JB weld and tunneled the carb side of the case up to direct to transfer. lighten piston and ported cly . gasket delete .that 038 pulls like a husky .crazy Runs like a scalded dog.
These are some crazy ideas man, I think if they succeed you will need to address the composition of your pistons. Mark Atkinson has some very good ideas and a new piston design but I am thinking you will need pistons made from stronger stuff to endure this massive increase of pressures and compression.
Another thing just thaught abt what seals going use if build more crank pressure up in lower end too blow up transfers. That or what the pressure a seal can hold when testing for leaks when pressurize lower end. Before you have failure
I have wanted to offset the crank of my chainsaw for a long time. De Saxe engines have been around for a very long time but they have always had balance issues. Really looking forward to see how you go.
Question for the Ironhorse! I've got a new Meteor piston for my Ms460 and the wrist pin it came with is considerably heavier than Oem, how can I tell if the oem wrist pin is still good? Is it OK to use if it is discolored and has some blue heat lines on it? Thanks for any input!!!
Hey Iron, what is your thought on polishing vs. porting? Ideally both work well together, but if I wanted to start our smaller, till I get more of a grasp on things, what about just polishing intake, exhaust port, changeover inside surfaces? Not sure polishing lower piston surfaces would help or not?... I mean in theory smoother airflow always helps, but, maybe too risky screwing with pistons?
The neatest thing about the entire video is where this added hole from the cylinder back into the intake is going to only flow one way and only during the compression stroke, and will then close without the piston position achieving this so as to not burn into the intake (which is stalled and into reversion at the time which will help to scavenge that burning charge headed towards the carburetor) during the exhaust stroke. Should slip a boost bottle on the intake side with a sparkplug in it at the same time lmao!
How are you going to get the compression stroke to bleed to the tube/intake but not the power stroke that is much higher pressure than the compression stroke? It can't really differentiate between the two. You will get exhaust and cylinder pressure along with the compression pressure.
Yay feel like when you get one of those golden stickers off the school teacher . .g day bill block as well . Been cuttin that aussie hardwood or what . Ive been busy as
Hey bro do you ever do live chat? I would like to support the Chanel!! I’ve been watching you for a wile I’m building my first 372. I’ve done mild porting on it.
Harvey see what your talking abt with moving cylinder. I believe that why husky went too the angle cylinder on new motor design. What if you space the jug and put a longer rod. Like a motor putting longer rods put pressure at different angle in cylinder. Instead offsetting the jug. Also would lengthing the transfer with spacer help plus having longer rod or like destrocker put shorter rod help. So can also adjust timing then do mild or crazy port work too transfers. That and also wouldn't you want lower compression too spool your crank up like do in super charger or turbo motor.
BTW the way you speak of the 372 makes me want it so bad for my next saw, but TBH I think "my 70cc" is gonna have to be the 7310p unless somehow things change, dramatically & badly, for that new platform (MWEBA1 considers it his best 70cc, see his 46-tank-review I mean NO fines got past that filter in 50 tanks!!), and I'm loving 590's for 60cc and 660's for 90cc+...... What do you recommend, for a *Husqvarna* platform, in the 80cc's? Ideally 78-->84cc's, something to be a nice in-between a 73cc 7310 and my pair of 92cc+ 660's? (I'm putting "+" because they're already >92.0000cc once cylinder & piston are ported, but am gonna be doing 56mm big-bore on at least one of them....am still unable to find good answers for NOT using them, same for pop-up's, seems ALL saws would benefit yet these 2 mods are not "obvious moves" in everyone's eyes, will be making a thread on that subject on OPE but would love your thoughts on it, I do see you seem to use pop-up's more than most...also curious WTH is up w/ these lil 0.5mm pop-ups on the big 660 pistons, when the CS590 pop-up's have a pop-up plate that's like 2X taller!!) Not to slam you w/ Q's LOL but I can't get something outta my mind-- pop-up's work by reducing volume in combustion chamber during that "TDC-area" part of the stroke, right? Same as alterations of the squish-measurement. SO....Wouldn't, then, the *overall volume* of the chamber still be something to toy with? I guess I'm looking at the total "added volume" of the pop-up plate on my Hyway & Duke pistons here, and thinking "I could just splooge some JB Weld on the inner-tip of my decomp-plug, reducing chamber-volume by at-least as much as that pop-up riser does!" and I cannot fault this thinking....to be clear I mean using JB Weld "as loctite" on the decomp plug, but doing it in a way wherein you seat the decomp plug w/ JB and flip cylinder upside-down for it to cure, but not before putting a big ole dab of JB on the inner-protruding part of the plug, to further "add volume" inside that chamber!! You could probably achieve 2-3 "pop-up's worth of volume" this way!! Thoughts? Thanks as always, & obviously no prob if you don't read or reply to these I put them out there just-as-much to spur thought & discussion, as I do in expectation you'll actually have hard&fast answers to just recite ;D
Seems like that tube running from near the combustion chamber into the intake would, in addition to blowing on the compression stroke, suck on the power stroke, and take unburned fuel from the intake. Don't know if it will be detrimental to the power of the saw, but wasteful, at least.
Have u done any work like this on the old homelites? Is the position of the intake and exhaust on these the reason why they don't have a ton of high speed, but lots of torque?
Detroit did it to a diesel ironhorse can do it to a gas engine. Nothing like a screaming Detroit.I run one every day loud but unstoppable.WFO all day long.buckins gonna love it.
Hi. You should try to rig up a water or hydraulic pump that you can adapt and test power output before and after. The offset cylinder idea is sound, many 4 strokes use offset wrist pin holes. The challenge with forced induction is not boost but air density. If your ideas consume too much crank power or heat up the charge air to where it has lost much density then you have no gains. Still I think you may have something worth trying. I liked the comment about an afterburner. 2T with reed induction and an expansion pipe behaves somewhat like a pulse jet engine when the pipe is in resonance. Not sure what you would do with the thrust though, hang a skewer and roast a rabbit while you’re buckin firewood?
I would love to run one of these, or any that you have ready on my chainsaw dyno free of charge. Would be able to show the gains over a stock saw. With a graph of the run and all. If you are interested let me know
I like the big word IF . Because it starts al kind of questions. I think I am going to watch this one again. And already having trouble waiting on the next installment. Love you all . How is the gardening going. 👍👍👍😊😊🌞🌎💝
Harvey I have a sthil 391 it has 64 cc that I have to rebuild with a new cylinder what info can you provide I want to port or do you even recommend it.?
Sounds far- fetched, but I know you can do this, you have the knowledge, skills, and patience to see it through. I will be following this, I wish my Dad was around to see this, he was a self taught engine tuner.
Hey Harv I have a idea for a video that I think would be great for the viewers. What if we setup a go fund me account or something similar for a saw that we could watch you build. And you could send it to Buckin. If your interested I have a 74cc Dayton with the reed valves that I would donate and cash. I would really love to see this.
Hey Harvey, how are you going to achieve the correct counterbalance if your taking material off the counterweight of the crank? A lightened piston and rod combo? I assume you have a way to rebalance the crank rotating assembly also? Not trying to challenge you just wanted to ask the question. I'm on your team buddy!!!
@@theironhorse6600 I figured you had thought about it quite alot. I just wanted to make sure buddy!! I think it's a very good use of what is available within the saw. I've always wondered what would happen if it was done.
looks like im buying a dirt cheap saw to try this super charging effect out, ive done basic rebuilds on big locomotive superchargers but this sounds fun to me , i think ill be fairly conservative though. In this stupid world you guys are a breath of fresh air, you always were though but youre real people, you could talk about anything i wouldnt care.
I have an interesting suggestion... I wonder if it would be possible to mount a camera in the side of an engine case and film the intake and exhaust action inside by introducing some smoke into the intake while the engine is running...... it would be interesting if we could see the flow patterns and also the relative speed of the intake charge as it moves across the crank counterweights.
I thought that you could also spin a chainsaw engine with an electric motor and introduce just the smoke into the intake....that might allow the stream of smoke to be seen better than trying to run the engine
I realize that by spending at with an electric motor you're not going to get exactly the same results because you're not going to have the combustion aspect in the expanding gases but it may allow you to see the speed of the intake charge whether or not it's actually faster than the crank or not and that's going to be a key critical piece of information to know whether the internal supercharger will work or not my gut feeling is that the rotational speed of the crank weights at that diameter is not going to be fast enough to create any type of positive airflow but this type of experiment might allow us to see that whether that's true or not.... Just my two cents worth on the matter
Thank you Ironhorse for your wisdom. I fix everything and engineer new parts when needed because Alaska is a rough place on equipment. You are enlightening me so much on engines and theory. I’m also applying this to radio controlled gas airplanes, my grandpa was a plane mechanic in ww2 and Korea , he would have loved a conversation with you if he was still around. Much love and respect, god bless you Ironhorse
Harvey sounds to me as a lot of old Swedish gurus on these subjects like Folke Mannerstedt, Nisse Hedlund and "The Professor" Harry Lundberger and others. I'm 63 and had the pleasure to meet the last one. Most of them have worked with or at Husqvarna factory with their two and four stroke race engines for mc-racers, crossbikes, race boats and you name it. I'm glad TH-cam can save this knowledge! Thanks!
The two ports that will be drilled into the bore can be tapped and use a brakeline type of fitting to attach the tubes. Great ideas in this video.
Love what you guys are cooking up. Many years ago I raced karts with Mcculloch engines that had three carbs. Yup..dual intake on the top and one carb on the base. If that wasn't enough already we ran it on methanol.
Yahoo!!
Ironhorse, all of your videos are so entertaining and educational but this....this look into your genius was my favorite !
Greetings from Central NH (Lakes Region) - Harvey, you are awesome in how you are approaching this challenge. Great to watch the progression and the results you and Cullen are achieving. I am really impressed with the increased torque and RPM without you burning up the saw or having to drastically modify the bearings. Thanks for the high level of detail. Looking forward to the next video.
About 20 years ago there was a company building "turbo cranks" for snowmobile engines. Same idea as yours basically they drilled holes on angles and it was supposed to make a big difference but I never personally saw one in action. Their adds were in Snow-Tech magazines I believe.
I actually looked up the turbo crankshaft in the rc car engine. Really cool concept. Looking forward to see how it works in a saw
Really Great stuff! You talk with an acivied knowlege as a 2 stroke master, Your sun Said a True thing : probably Your idea of using part of Power stroke for Doing pumping in the crankase can work but shortly Your crankase Will be covered of unburned oil, from wave Point of wiev it can work.
I want give you an Little advise: cilynder offset cause an asimmetryc intake duratin, check it, you Will found same more degree in Advance or viceversa.
About crankshaft, i saw something similar in a tuned engine here in italy. If i found it i send a link.
I Will follow your great stuff!
Sorry for my English...
Ciao
I can't wait to see this saw built!!!!! If it does work out I'll be one if the first guys in line if you start building them.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos! Merry Christmas Ironhorse!
Love your thinking outside the box! Can’t wait to see the future progression
Werry nice film again
Thank you for sharing this
I am gona build a 372 for myself and
Have already used a lot of info of your films
Greatings from the Netherlands.
Ps.sorry for my poor english.
Haha! Your English is better than most Americans! Thanks for watching!
Fantastic concepts Harvey. I can share some thoughts. How about instead of moving the cylinder center, angling the cylinder forward? This would require a cylinder adapter but has some benefits. Reduce strain on the piston due to angle, utilize cylinder studs, allow the transfer air to be straightened, this will benefit the direction on the crank mods, allow more room for carbs. I also believe there are options in pistons such a forged Wiseco. These are proven in boosted engines. I could go on with some other thoughts if you want to discuss. am a Quality Engineer with a background in Mechanical Engineering.
I love it, and hello Cullen glad to see you more involved in this. Iron horse it would be cool to see these saws go on a dyno that you build for year 2. Not shure anyone has done that, and if it’s possible $ wise. Just a thought. Have a great day!
Wow Harvey this is gonna be so cool to follow this build. Cant wait to see the 266 of Hogans run. Genius status right there friends. Keep up the great work buddy. Love it man. Hey Cullen great to see ya bud. 🌲❤🌲✊
Well that sounds fun, better put some bulletproof titanium bearings in that thing 😁.
I had an idea while you were talking about the crank mods. What if instead of cutting slots you drill holes from the outer corners of the crank weights (close to the transfer openings in the case) and those holes exit into the space between the weights/crank. As the weights pass by the transfers the venturi effect of the air mix being pushed up should suck air through those holes and from the dead area in the centre. Well in my head that works anyway 🤔
My concern with doing this would be crank seals . I wonder how much pressure they can hold back
That’s was my question as well.
Wow well said can't wait too see and hear saw run.
Super interesting video Harvey. Good luck with this project .
"I know how to get the #'s, but don't know how they affect the saw" -- AMEN!! I made & used a timing wheel when doing my 1st project (cs590, went well!), but TBH I only did "because I was supposed to", I took my #'s but - if those #'s were 5 or 15* different than what I'd measured - I wouldn't have even understood the difference (I know my #'s were accurate, I just mean "they're still greek to me") Have been dying to find "meta/advanced/theory" talk on #'s, I mean it's almost an objective statement "raising exhaust roof will speed-up the saw, as well as lower its compression, as well as increase blowdown" but, hell, look at a carb's tuning, if you just alter 1 of the 3 screws, you usually need to set the other 2 a lil to 'match' & harmonize things, I have NO doubt that there's a bunch of critical "ratios&rules" that us at-home, reverse-engineering porters are just blind to (I just can't shake the memory of measuring my 590 cylinder and finding that the smaller intake port actually had 50% more window-height, like almost 50.00% more than the exhaust port height inside the cylinder, could not believe that ratio was 'by chance', but there's gotta be a bunch of others I wish some stihl/husq designers would toss us a bone and do a "Reddit AMA" session so the porting-community could ask all the difficult Q's!!)
[btw Tinman mentioned doing another 'meta / theory' series of "Cutaway videos" in his recent 590-update video, may be worth talking to him & seeing if you guys can't run things side-by-side because he's better for 'basic entry level' and you're more advanced, would be epic if you guys had a "5 part series: intake/exhaust/chamfer/transfers/squish/compression" each, wherein his are "the basics" and yours TAKE AS ASSUMED (put it in the description even!) that anyone watching IS 100% fully understanding every iota of Tinman's corresponding video, before watching your more-advanced, that would be epic for new porters!!!]
[[PS-- If/When you do go doing timing/theory/meta/what-#'s-mean talk, I'd urge you to not only talk the relationships but -- just before the 8min mark of this video -- you speak of "a work build".....I'm gonna wager that the OVERWHELMING majority of potential-porters are not weekend warriors but, in fact, daily tree-guys like myself...and 1 thing I HATE is that there's *never* talk of which types of tunes/ports/tweaks are good/bad for the saw, for instance gaining power by un-plugging a corked OEM muffler is "easy-on-engine" power, whereas power via a gasket-delete or other compression-bump is inherently harder on the internals....I'm happy to push my cs590 to its limits, but am doing my aftermarket-660's WAY more conservatively, w/ a mindset of "I want to recreate & optimize the OEM param's, not 'improve upon' them!", but the only thing I can even think of is "gains via compression are *probably* harder on the engine than gains via speed" :P
Looking forward to seeing these builds
Absolutely love these ideas your putting out there,I came across this video after searching for 2 stroke supercharger and rotary valve mods..
I'd love if you could give some input with these ideas on the 2 stroke minarelli based engines,
Specially with the crankshaft supercharger airflow mods and the exhaust tube scavenging etc..
the Puch 50cc heads are a great fit on the saw cylinder. Some will say but why . It comes down to hp & cooling
Jug spacer and a longer rod would change the angularity giving it more balls and less revs with less side loading . Also (maybe), create a higher charge pressure. That would need the tube boost to take full advantage. Just a thought in between power outages in the snow.
I think the world is full of people who have amazing ideas and skills with no avenue or funds to show them...........it could absolutely be done! You know they say it takes a village to raise a nut, well imagine that village all having the same desire to make the nut work and change the world of chainsaws as we know it!
It sounds very very interesting can’t wait for the next video As the saying go s getter done that wright 👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎
Watching from Australia. Looking at doing a 066 big bore that got . Just needed the right advice and a saw I wanted to hack
Hey Mr Harv and Cullin. You could drill holes and add brass dowel pieces to keep weight up on the crank might help with vibration when you cut I tried it in a torque build but lost a bearing in a few cords anyway but may work for your experiment. Thanks you guys
I love it Buddy!!! Frankenstein all the way!! It will chew wood like a mad man!! Let's add a nitrous bottle too!!
Harvey you are on another level my friend.
I loved this video!!!
For the record i think it will work which excites ne and scares me a little
You mentioned that a lot of 2 stroke developement has occurred recently... Well last year I rode a 1929 Scott Motorcycle... They had 600cc twin cylinders, watercooled, with disk-valve induction, even then. What did hold them back was the quality of Petrol that they had in the 1930s. Modern fuel and lubrication is so much better these days..... Best of luck with the venturiis..
Well this I will have to see to believe
That's a good idea. Cant wait to c if it works.
Now u would probably have to lighten the back end of the crank to balance it out right.
Ur going BIG on this 1 👍🏽
excited to see this build develop.
HEY HARVEY 038 MAG HAS TWO STEP IN CASE BOTTOM OF TRANS ;i 45 the two steps and filled with JB weld and tunneled the carb side of the case up to direct to transfer. lighten piston and ported cly . gasket delete .that 038 pulls like a husky .crazy Runs like a scalded dog.
These are some crazy ideas man, I think if they succeed you will need to address the composition of your pistons. Mark Atkinson has some very good ideas and a new piston design but I am thinking you will need pistons made from stronger stuff to endure this massive increase of pressures and compression.
Another thing just thaught abt what seals going use if build more crank pressure up in lower end too blow up transfers. That or what the pressure a seal can hold when testing for leaks when pressurize lower end. Before you have failure
I have wanted to offset the crank of my chainsaw for a long time. De Saxe engines have been around for a very long time but they have always had balance issues. Really looking forward to see how you go.
Question for the Ironhorse! I've got a new Meteor piston for my Ms460 and the wrist pin it came with is considerably heavier than Oem, how can I tell if the oem wrist pin is still good? Is it OK to use if it is discolored and has some blue heat lines on it? Thanks for any input!!!
Love the ideas. Let’s get started.
Hey Iron, what is your thought on polishing vs. porting? Ideally both work well together, but if I wanted to start our smaller, till I get more of a grasp on things, what about just polishing intake, exhaust port, changeover inside surfaces? Not sure polishing lower piston surfaces would help or not?... I mean in theory smoother airflow always helps, but, maybe too risky screwing with pistons?
The neatest thing about the entire video is where this added hole from the cylinder back into the intake is going to only flow one way and only during the compression stroke, and will then close without the piston position achieving this so as to not burn into the intake (which is stalled and into reversion at the time which will help to scavenge that burning charge headed towards the carburetor) during the exhaust stroke. Should slip a boost bottle on the intake side with a sparkplug in it at the same time lmao!
How are you going to get the compression stroke to bleed to the tube/intake but not the power stroke that is much higher pressure than the compression stroke? It can't really differentiate between the two. You will get exhaust and cylinder pressure along with the compression pressure.
What about having a full circle crankshaft built, to further decrease crankcase volume?
WILD THANG COMING! WEEEEEE,,,,....thanks 4 video. be kind.
Can you use a lighter conrod and pistion set up to counter the weight if there is such a thing.
Titanium pistion pin
I am using a stock rod! Considering a titanium wrist Pin! Piston will be a little lighter! No big bore on this one!
Yay feel like when you get one of those golden stickers off the school teacher .
.g day bill block as well .
Been cuttin that aussie hardwood or what .
Ive been busy as
Hey bro do you ever do live chat? I would like to support the Chanel!!
I’ve been watching you for a wile I’m building my first 372. I’ve done mild porting on it.
Harvey see what your talking abt with moving cylinder. I believe that why husky went too the angle cylinder on new motor design. What if you space the jug and put a longer rod. Like a motor putting longer rods put pressure at different angle in cylinder. Instead offsetting the jug. Also would lengthing the transfer with spacer help plus having longer rod or like destrocker put shorter rod help. So can also adjust timing then do mild or crazy port work too transfers. That and also wouldn't you want lower compression too spool your crank up like do in super charger or turbo motor.
Ever think about drilling slanted holes in the halves of the crankshaft?
This is really cool. I love your rocket surgery!
Perhaps machining the counter weights to resemble flights on an auger
Exciting stuff coming. Way over my head but I'm learning!
all very good stuff let it rip
BTW the way you speak of the 372 makes me want it so bad for my next saw, but TBH I think "my 70cc" is gonna have to be the 7310p unless somehow things change, dramatically & badly, for that new platform (MWEBA1 considers it his best 70cc, see his 46-tank-review I mean NO fines got past that filter in 50 tanks!!), and I'm loving 590's for 60cc and 660's for 90cc+...... What do you recommend, for a *Husqvarna* platform, in the 80cc's? Ideally 78-->84cc's, something to be a nice in-between a 73cc 7310 and my pair of 92cc+ 660's? (I'm putting "+" because they're already >92.0000cc once cylinder & piston are ported, but am gonna be doing 56mm big-bore on at least one of them....am still unable to find good answers for NOT using them, same for pop-up's, seems ALL saws would benefit yet these 2 mods are not "obvious moves" in everyone's eyes, will be making a thread on that subject on OPE but would love your thoughts on it, I do see you seem to use pop-up's more than most...also curious WTH is up w/ these lil 0.5mm pop-ups on the big 660 pistons, when the CS590 pop-up's have a pop-up plate that's like 2X taller!!)
Not to slam you w/ Q's LOL but I can't get something outta my mind-- pop-up's work by reducing volume in combustion chamber during that "TDC-area" part of the stroke, right? Same as alterations of the squish-measurement. SO....Wouldn't, then, the *overall volume* of the chamber still be something to toy with? I guess I'm looking at the total "added volume" of the pop-up plate on my Hyway & Duke pistons here, and thinking "I could just splooge some JB Weld on the inner-tip of my decomp-plug, reducing chamber-volume by at-least as much as that pop-up riser does!" and I cannot fault this thinking....to be clear I mean using JB Weld "as loctite" on the decomp plug, but doing it in a way wherein you seat the decomp plug w/ JB and flip cylinder upside-down for it to cure, but not before putting a big ole dab of JB on the inner-protruding part of the plug, to further "add volume" inside that chamber!! You could probably achieve 2-3 "pop-up's worth of volume" this way!! Thoughts?
Thanks as always, & obviously no prob if you don't read or reply to these I put them out there just-as-much to spur thought & discussion, as I do in expectation you'll actually have hard&fast answers to just recite ;D
1 STEP THEN TEST. 2ND STEP THEN TEST. 3RD THEN TEST. THIS WILL SHOW YOU HOW IT IS WORTH IT OR NOT. DONT DO ALL THE MODS AT ONCE.
This is exciting !
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out
I bet that muffler looks like one on a 394 .GO HARVEY
would the crank generate enough rpm to push air and build over pressure?
Have you ever packed the base to increase base pressure?
Seems like that tube running from near the combustion chamber into the intake would, in addition to blowing on the compression stroke, suck on the power stroke, and take unburned fuel from the intake. Don't know if it will be detrimental to the power of the saw, but wasteful, at least.
Also wonder if this gas would ignite and extend the flame, thereby creating more (unnecessary) heat.
Like the old fram commercial.
you da man harv!
Loved thevideo harv keep it up
Have u done any work like this on the old homelites? Is the position of the intake and exhaust on these the reason why they don't have a ton of high speed, but lots of torque?
Have you ever tried stuffing the piston?
Hi Ironhorse it is ,Garry i have a old saw Super 3270 Pioneer.are they a good old chainsaw.
Detroit did it to a diesel ironhorse can do it to a gas engine. Nothing like a screaming Detroit.I run one every day loud but unstoppable.WFO all day long.buckins gonna love it.
I can't wait to see buckins crazy muffler and the supercharged 372👍🏼
I love you guys
Hi. You should try to rig up a water or hydraulic pump that you can adapt and test power output before and after. The offset cylinder idea is sound, many 4 strokes use offset wrist pin holes. The challenge with forced induction is not boost but air density. If your ideas consume too much crank power or heat up the charge air to where it has lost much density then you have no gains. Still I think you may have something worth trying. I liked the comment about an afterburner. 2T with reed induction and an expansion pipe behaves somewhat like a pulse jet engine when the pipe is in resonance. Not sure what you would do with the thrust though, hang a skewer and roast a rabbit while you’re buckin firewood?
I would love to run one of these, or any that you have ready on my chainsaw dyno free of charge.
Would be able to show the gains over a stock saw. With a graph of the run and all.
If you are interested let me know
Love to! Where you at joe?
My email! Ironhorsechainsaw@gmail.com
Lower Michigan, about 20 miles south of Lansing.
I'll send an email in a bit
I like the big word IF .
Because it starts al kind of questions. I think I am going to watch this one again. And already having trouble waiting on the next installment. Love you all .
How is the gardening going. 👍👍👍😊😊🌞🌎💝
Harvey I have a sthil 391 it has 64 cc that I have to rebuild with a new cylinder what info can you provide I want to port or do you even recommend it.?
I love it!! I know if anybody can do this, u can buddy!! Can't wait to see this build!
Now that’s interesting 🧐 🤔
Harvey old school horse power 👍
Really out of box thinking on this, keep up the good stuff ironhorse!!
Hey ironhorse have you ever ported a 029 super stihl?
This will be interesting to watch.
Sounds far- fetched, but I know you can do this, you have the knowledge, skills, and patience to see it through. I will be following this, I wish my Dad was around to see this, he was a self taught engine tuner.
Hey Harv I have a idea for a video that I think would be great for the viewers. What if we setup a go fund me account or something similar for a saw that we could watch you build. And you could send it to Buckin.
If your interested I have a 74cc Dayton with the reed valves that I would donate and cash. I would really love to see this.
Id like to send a jred 625ii to you how do i contact you
Instead of moving the jug, see if Wesco can give you an offset pin piston. Another gear head.
Hey Harvey, how are you going to achieve the correct counterbalance if your taking material off the counterweight of the crank? A lightened piston and rod combo? I assume you have a way to rebalance the crank rotating assembly also? Not trying to challenge you just wanted to ask the question. I'm on your team buddy!!!
Must rebalance!
@@theironhorse6600 I figured you had thought about it quite alot. I just wanted to make sure buddy!! I think it's a very good use of what is available within the saw. I've always wondered what would happen if it was done.
Hello Ironhorse & Cullen. It’s really Obvious to us that you Live and Breathe Powersaws. 😬 👍
harv, please work nights!!!!
Mr iron man Nice.😆
looks like im buying a dirt cheap saw to try this super charging effect out, ive done basic rebuilds on big locomotive superchargers but this sounds fun to me , i think ill be fairly conservative though. In this stupid world you guys are a breath of fresh air, you always were though but youre real people, you could talk about anything i wouldnt care.
I’ll share everything I learn from this with you guys!
Hi tech. You should patent
14.9 subs now
I have an interesting suggestion... I wonder if it would be possible to mount a camera in the side of an engine case and film the intake and exhaust action inside by introducing some smoke into the intake while the engine is running...... it would be interesting if we could see the flow patterns and also the relative speed of the intake charge as it moves across the crank counterweights.
I thought that you could also spin a chainsaw engine with an electric motor and introduce just the smoke into the intake....that might allow the stream of smoke to be seen better than trying to run the engine
I realize that by spending at with an electric motor you're not going to get exactly the same results because you're not going to have the combustion aspect in the expanding gases but it may allow you to see the speed of the intake charge whether or not it's actually faster than the crank or not and that's going to be a key critical piece of information to know whether the internal supercharger will work or not my gut feeling is that the rotational speed of the crank weights at that diameter is not going to be fast enough to create any type of positive airflow but this type of experiment might allow us to see that whether that's true or not.... Just my two cents worth on the matter
what you are taking about as been done on RC engines they are called " TURBO CRANK "
BUT I don't know if it as ever been done on a chainsaw engine :)
I'm so confused. Is this satire?
This is real!
How can I get in contact with you ironhorse ? I have a chainsaw I really want to talk to you about
Sorry I haven’t answered! Ironhorsechainsaw@gmail.com