Glad you got a mopar one an replaced .. takes all guessing if it was or wasn’t going to leave you hanging off your chest now.. I did find this informative jon as I’d never changed one before or even where it was located an appreciate you sharing this with us .. you should jus about have every sensor changed an bug free by now lol.. you’ve really brought that little Dakota a long way.. mechanically An cosmetically.. it’s really coming together now An your good patients an perseverance is showing an paying off.. hopefully soon you can take us out for a daylight drive An do some pulls with it 😁👍
Great video, seems likely that's whats wrong with my truck. Ive seen a bunch of people asking if replacing parts magically fixes their vehicles, dont rhrow money at problems. Take the meter, and a friend and test everything. You're looking for fuel and spark. Go through your relays, trace it all back. No start, no spark, youll be looking at a ignition coil, distributor pickup coil, or crank sensor. No fuel, could be asd relay (automatic shutdown) , caused by any of those, or fuel pump relay. Check your connectors, and test your wiring buy yourself some alligator clips so you can check voltages anywhere, with a true ground present (to battery negative). In my case I know both the pickup and ignition coil and all relays are good, and the wiring at my fuel pump is fine, and when the relay activates it sees 12v. Knowing this, i have no spark because i have good fuel pressure on the fuel rail, therefore crank sensor. Sure diagnostics can take time, but it saves money.
I'm a former dodge mechanic and one thing to keep an eye on with the dakota's when it randomly dies on you. Is look for the odometer to read nobuss. If it does then you need a new ecu. It will start out only doing this on hot days after driving for a while. But it will progressively happen more often. What happens is the solder point in the ecu for the wire that supplies voltage to all of the sensors gets weak. Unfortunately dodge puts a nasty gel in their ecu. So fixing it is a pain. The easiest thing to do is to get a new ecu.
@@BoostedMotorsports check the signal wire from the computer. I want to say that it's purple. Not a 100% on the color. It's been a while since I've worked for dodge. But it should put out 5v. One way to verify. Is to take an old cell phone charger that only puts out less than an amp of current. Strip the end of a charging cable and take the red wire and connect it to the signal wire. Your sensors need to see 5v. They don't care where the voltage comes from as long as it's 5v. You can also test the hot side of multiple sensors and if they aren't getting the 5v then you know that it's a problem with either the computer or the wire that supplies the signal. The same wire sends power to all of your sensors.
Also if it turns out to be a problem with the computer and you have the factory security system and a chipped key. You will have to take it to dodge and have them program it to your vin. Your year is hit or miss if you have to do this. If you don't have the security system or chipped key. Then make sure you order a computer that doesn't have the security system on it.
Nice i was told crankshaft position sensor was bad because my 99 Durango just cranks and cranks and cranks and then fires up so i ordered a new mopar crankshaft positioning sensor
Trying to get this out of a 94 Durango and it is nearly impossible to get the socket on it. Intake has been removed and wires pulled forward as best can. I understand the need to make the video concise but after counting. nearly a dozen edits in your actual removal/install, I can't help wonder how long it actually took you to wrangle that sensor out and get the new one back in. I'm still very grateful for the video. If I could just shrink my arms to half their size and grow my legs another 3 feet so I can look straight down in there it would be a snap. As it is I'm having to climb up on the engine to get at it.
I'm doing my 5.9 magnum now. How do you orient the crank sensor into its location? Does the sensor slip into part of the block, or just sit against it?
Not sure if you guys are aware, but look into your relays. The computer sends a quick pulse to your fuel pump to prime it, if it isnt getting the right signal from that, or your cam/crank sensors, you wont have spark/fuel. Your asd relay is worth looking into.
Will this cause your truck to shut off while driving? Had problems went to a cruise truck shut off luckily got it started 20 minutes later tho to get off the road and get towed home. Truck would just crank and not start does it today too. I’m taking it to a mechanic tomorrow cause I’m not sure if this is my problem.
My 95 Ram was stalling. I gave it a good tune-up. Replaced plugs, wires, dist, ignition coil, etc. It ran a lot better lol,...but it would still die after driving for about 15 minutes. Usually start back up. But it was getting worse. I changed the crank sensor a few days ago, it's been running good since.
now to rent a dragstrip a few hours or so, an see whats it got etc..i left line at 1800 r pm in my duster,with a roadrunner 11 inch converter,about 2200 stall....
From what year did the crankshaft sensor (CKP), that goes in right side of the transmission bell start to come?...I'm a little confused, I've seen Dakotas Ram 150 250 vans etc etc, but they don't have that cavity for the sensor .
I've replaced the old sensor, and now when I start the engine there is a thicking noise coming from the conector of the sensor, when I touch the conectot I can feel the tic-tic-tic......Can be that is not enough tight? It was a nightmare the installation...... thanks on advance
What was the issue that led you to know the sensor was bad? I'm getting a "no bus" on the odometer and no gage functions but the truck will crank and crank but never turn over.
@@isaacrivera8339 yes I have. Mine was actually the pcm was bad. Plugged the new (to me) one in and she fired right up. Just recently went on a week long trip from Cali to Washington in the truck and no issues.
I replaced a flywheel , have no idea if the flywheel has to be clocked the book don't say it said mark the flywheel and crank if reusing your flywheel . i just lined up the bolts and stuck the flywheel on , trans won't be rebuilt till OCT 4th how do i know if i have my flywheel in the right place ? anyone know help
Thank God somebody was smart enough to have an extra engine around and show where it was outside of the engine compartment!!! So thank you bro.
You got it 💪
Bro thanks I didn’t know where this was for so long ima go change it rn
I use 1/4 inch Allen socket and a swivel, 1 ft extension and ratchet. Changed 100's of these way back when
Man this video was very pleasant. No negative talk. That always motivates the inexperienced to jump right in.
Glad you got a mopar one an replaced .. takes all guessing if it was or wasn’t going to leave you hanging off your chest now.. I did find this informative jon as I’d never changed one before or even where it was located an appreciate you sharing this with us .. you should jus about have every sensor changed an bug free by now lol.. you’ve really brought that little Dakota a long way.. mechanically An cosmetically.. it’s really coming together now An your good patients an perseverance is showing an paying off.. hopefully soon you can take us out for a daylight drive An do some pulls with it 😁👍
Great video, seems likely that's whats wrong with my truck. Ive seen a bunch of people asking if replacing parts magically fixes their vehicles, dont rhrow money at problems. Take the meter, and a friend and test everything. You're looking for fuel and spark. Go through your relays, trace it all back. No start, no spark, youll be looking at a ignition coil, distributor pickup coil, or crank sensor. No fuel, could be asd relay (automatic shutdown) , caused by any of those, or fuel pump relay. Check your connectors, and test your wiring buy yourself some alligator clips so you can check voltages anywhere, with a true ground present (to battery negative). In my case I know both the pickup and ignition coil and all relays are good, and the wiring at my fuel pump is fine, and when the relay activates it sees 12v. Knowing this, i have no spark because i have good fuel pressure on the fuel rail, therefore crank sensor.
Sure diagnostics can take time, but it saves money.
I'm a former dodge mechanic and one thing to keep an eye on with the dakota's when it randomly dies on you. Is look for the odometer to read nobuss. If it does then you need a new ecu. It will start out only doing this on hot days after driving for a while. But it will progressively happen more often. What happens is the solder point in the ecu for the wire that supplies voltage to all of the sensors gets weak. Unfortunately dodge puts a nasty gel in their ecu. So fixing it is a pain. The easiest thing to do is to get a new ecu.
I was thinking it might be the PCM as it’s doing it again. Won’t start. The odometer still shows fine when it does it and doesn’t say “no bus”
@@BoostedMotorsports check the signal wire from the computer. I want to say that it's purple. Not a 100% on the color. It's been a while since I've worked for dodge. But it should put out 5v. One way to verify. Is to take an old cell phone charger that only puts out less than an amp of current. Strip the end of a charging cable and take the red wire and connect it to the signal wire. Your sensors need to see 5v. They don't care where the voltage comes from as long as it's 5v. You can also test the hot side of multiple sensors and if they aren't getting the 5v then you know that it's a problem with either the computer or the wire that supplies the signal. The same wire sends power to all of your sensors.
Also if it turns out to be a problem with the computer and you have the factory security system and a chipped key. You will have to take it to dodge and have them program it to your vin. Your year is hit or miss if you have to do this. If you don't have the security system or chipped key. Then make sure you order a computer that doesn't have the security system on it.
@@mwestie12 great tip thank you
@@mwestie12 very helpful info. Thank you
Nice i was told crankshaft position sensor was bad because my 99 Durango just cranks and cranks and cranks and then fires up so i ordered a new mopar crankshaft positioning sensor
Thank you! Really helped with doing this for my truck!
Trying to get this out of a 94 Durango and it is nearly impossible to get the socket on it. Intake has been removed and wires pulled forward as best can.
I understand the need to make the video concise but after counting. nearly a dozen edits in your actual removal/install, I can't help wonder how long it actually took you to wrangle that sensor out and get the new one back in.
I'm still very grateful for the video. If I could just shrink my arms to half their size and grow my legs another 3 feet so I can look straight down in there it would be a snap. As it is I'm having to climb up on the engine to get at it.
On my 94 you have to take off the egr tube. Factory parts work the best.
Same on my 95 Ram
Do those sensors need to be removed when taking out the 5.9?
Thanks from México 👍
Awesome BM《☆》Good preventive measure. Maybe keep the old one in the glovebox for good luck🤓👍🏾:*: Greetings from⛾Florida🤳my friend🤓🗣🔊☮✌👍🏾
That's the plan!
Man great channel and video
I'm doing my 5.9 magnum now. How do you orient the crank sensor into its location? Does the sensor slip into part of the block, or just sit against it?
Thanks!
was seriously glad to hear it run good,an you squealin like a girl, lol..mopars are just special....
Would this cause a crank, no start condition?
Would this also cause the fuel pump not to prime up if it's faulty?
I'm actually wondering the same thing cuz I have the same problem no spark no fuel. I don't know if I'll get a response to this or not
Mine was the fuel pump after all. Original one, 21 years old.
I’m having this problem too. No spark and the fuel pump isn’t coming on. Replaced the fuel pump yesterday, only comes on jumping the relay. Help?
Not sure if you guys are aware, but look into your relays. The computer sends a quick pulse to your fuel pump to prime it, if it isnt getting the right signal from that, or your cam/crank sensors, you wont have spark/fuel. Your asd relay is worth looking into.
Will this cause your truck to shut off while driving? Had problems went to a cruise truck shut off luckily got it started 20 minutes later tho to get off the road and get towed home. Truck would just crank and not start does it today too. I’m taking it to a mechanic tomorrow cause I’m not sure if this is my problem.
what did you find out?
So what was the problem?
My 95 Ram was stalling. I gave it a good tune-up. Replaced plugs, wires, dist, ignition coil, etc. It ran a lot better lol,...but it would still die after driving for about 15 minutes. Usually start back up. But it was getting worse. I changed the crank sensor a few days ago, it's been running good since.
now to rent a dragstrip a few hours or so, an see whats it got etc..i left line at 1800 r pm in my duster,with a roadrunner 11 inch converter,about 2200 stall....
Is the rubber gasket on the bell housing where the sensor goes I necessary or can the crank position sensor be installed without it
Got my Mopar CPS off Rockauto. $68
We're all victims of poor engineering!
Do you happen to no the bolt specs like thread pitch and all that good stuff?
Have you ever slotted the bolt holes to advance the timing a couple degrees?? Is this a real mod or B.S.?
Would this be the same for a 1988 w150 318tbi
From what year did the crankshaft sensor (CKP), that goes in right side of the transmission bell start to come?...I'm a little confused, I've seen Dakotas Ram 150 250 vans etc etc, but they don't have that cavity for the sensor .
I've replaced the old sensor, and now when I start the engine there is a thicking noise coming from the conector of the sensor, when I touch the conectot I can feel the tic-tic-tic......Can be that is not enough tight? It was a nightmare the installation...... thanks on advance
What was the issue that led you to know the sensor was bad? I'm getting a "no bus" on the odometer and no gage functions but the truck will crank and crank but never turn over.
Have you fixed the “no bus” problem since then. I’m dealing with the same problem
@@isaacrivera8339 yes I have. Mine was actually the pcm was bad. Plugged the new (to me) one in and she fired right up. Just recently went on a week long trip from Cali to Washington in the truck and no issues.
Can you tell us how and why they go out, as I don't see any moving parts from my CPS..??.. If anything else, all I see is that it's a Magnet.. Thanks.
What is the plug/sensor(?) that's right next to the distributor? I have been trying so hard to find what its called. Please help!
On the Dodge Ram 5.9L the Cam sensor sits under the distributor. (But they may refer to it as an "ignition pickup").
I replaced a flywheel , have no idea if the flywheel has to be clocked the book don't say it said mark the flywheel and crank if reusing your flywheel . i just lined up the bolts and stuck the flywheel on , trans won't be rebuilt till OCT 4th how do i know if i have my flywheel in the right place ? anyone know help
Is the sensor in the same area on a 5.3 litre jeep cherokee. I cant locate where mine is at and its not near the dip stick
5.2 jeep
Oh boy, I can’t even see it from the engine bay on my 97 1500…
he said......tool...lol