Wow, this is about the most rare and important instructional in the laser cutting community. I always thought it was impossible to line up after you've moved your engraving. Thanks a lot! 👍🏽
Thank you so much for this, I remove the Job and then found I had made a mistake. Using this method I was able to reinsert the piece and fix the problem. Stay safe from Australia.
Holy cow! Thanks for this. I don't even own a laser...yet...but my interest is to print-and-cut around images on different materials. I have seen wood that has images on it that are then laser cut and I am hooked.
Looks groovy! I just picked up a hobby laser engraver/cutter and installed LaserGRBL. A friend of mine informed me that in addition to LaserGBL he uses Lightburn, and that I should look into it. Your video has convinced me to pick up a copy of Lightburn. Thanx!
Great video. Two questions: Where do you change how many mm your laser moves when you hit the arrow? And, can you do a follow-up video on how you got the outlines and registrations marks into Lightburn?
I am curious. You didn't explain how you had your two outlines of the sublimation items referenced to the two bulleyes. How did you go about putting the bulleyes on the wood in correlation to the 2 items you wanted Lightburn to cut out for you? Send like a great feature I either missed it or you didn't show it.
What kind of wood was that? Also what wattage laser? It seems impossible to cut through that fast. My 80w has to be slowed down to like 10mm/s at 70% power to be able to cut 5mm plywood.
This is 3mm Baltic birch cutting at 34mm/sec on my 100w. If you have to slow down that much and use nigh power like that you probably have something going on. Most of the time symptoms like this are an indication of an alignment issue. The place where alignment is the most crucial is the 3rd mirror at the top of the laser head down to the material. If that is not dead center you will lose a ton of power and if it is hitting the nozzle on the way out of your laser head then you power is diminished even more.
Thanks for this clear explanation, my longer nano 6w has a extender bed that is only 100x300 I’m going to hopefully cut some 3mm ply to the plans of a boat, the images though are outside that size so I’m guessing at moment that for each sheet I’ll have to make a print with targets then repeat moving each part of the image into the work area, cut and then join up again after, is that how you would do it or do you have a different way to use lightburn to cut patterns that don’t fit the work area? TIA
I THANK YOU for this video as I had been wondering about this. The only thing I will need to do is match my red dot pointer with the actual position of my laser on my new Aeon Mira 9.. I will ask then how to do so now.
So laser engraving is new to me. So let’s say you have a round piece of wood and you want a design in the center how do you tell the software where the wood is on the bed then engrave in the center. Thank you!
Just sent a thank you for your great instructions. Want to cut out stickers, but have PVC/gas concerns. Wonder what you use for sticker materials. Appreciate your feedback!
Thanks for the great video! One thing I noticed you changed the distance to .08 for jogging and when I changed mine the distance for each jog didn't change. Is there a setting I need to click for Lightburn to make changes like that to the machine?
Random question but have you ever encountered a laser crash where the head slams itself into the side wall? I only ask cause I’d love to know what caused this to happen to me an Iv had it happen 3 times now 🙄🤦🏻♂️
So I am just starting sublimation. when I import my image which I saved as a pdf from word, the targets are fine but the outline is teensy tiny and off ctr. Also I should be able to place my sublimated piece anywhere on the bed correct?
Hi friend, first of all thanks for the tutorial. Did you print on wood using sublimation? There are some tips on the internet using a hot iron, but I don't think it looks good.
On my machine there is a switch for just the power to the tube. For the polar you could set the layer power to 0 min/max and it would do the same thing.
How precise do you find it??? For me it is about 1mm not better than that I triad A4 A3 with two different printers and I cannot get it more precise...
When I do as you for some reason as I jog to the first cross hair the position maker is to the right about 1/2", when I jog to the second and zero in as you then run a text it goes over the crosshairs first, the first one is fine but the second one is off by 1/4" or so to the left and when I run it the head strays from the line, any help with this? Thanks
I love your channel, I tried every step you did but unfortunately is not working, the laser is not cutting where supposed have to. Are there any way that I can learn step by step on a site or with y’all? Thank you!!
The linked printer is an inkjet, not a dye-sub. Wrong link? Instead of adding a black outline, offset (overprint) the colors that are already part of the image. Then when you cut you'll be left with a clean image without a wonky black outline.
Awesome tutorial. Thanks so much. Is your air assist connected to only run when laser is going or was it that way because you turned the laser power on and off? How did you wire to only come on when lasering if thats the case?
Greetings, When you say sub print are you referencing a Sublimation Printer or the sublimation from of transfer from one material to another? Frist time I heard of sub printing in woodworker. I must admit that I have been very busy the last year and have not had any time from much research. I am very curious of how you got the Navy logo onto the board in such clarity.
The file that was printed, how did you move that file to lightburn so that the sizes were exactly the same? What program did you use the create the drawings and how did it import into lightburn? Did you just create those registration marks with a circle and lines?
I use Adobe illustrator to do design work but this could be done with Inkscape which is free. I export as a pdf file with the registration makes that I made with the file. Then I print and import the same file into lightburn. Lightburn’s print and cut feature will actually scale everything once you have the registration marks selected so you don’t even have to worry about the size or alignment.
@@BeardedBuildsCo you might have figured this out already but thought I would save you some time if you haven't, you can just copy paste straight from illustrator. Beats the extra step of saving and importing. Enjoy your videos... and thanks for helping me realign my laser. Different laser but same concept and your video was the best at not complicating it.
Hi! I have a problem between Neje vs LightBurn with power. The power via Neje seems to be higher. Is there any additional laser setting in LightBurn? Thanks
Do you know if the wood was coated or was it straight sub to wood? I have had successful wood subbing by applying a thin sheet of laminate on the wood and then sublimating. Looks freaking awesome!
Nice vid mate, just seemed to jump ahead of me. I have used the print and cut feature in Lightburn and I made the registration marks in LB but I am trying to find out exactly what you are showing in this video but before you printed, Did you make those registration marks in the print software so that they transfer into lightburn and then be used by LB
Yes the registration marks are made with the design and also printed to the print transfer paper. Here is another video that might help as well. th-cam.com/video/n__saOKVupA/w-d-xo.html
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thx mate, Yea I already used that video to make an oversized project and it worked out great, I was just at a loss as to how to create the print file in a sublimation printer and if the registration marks transfer exactly to my laser .
Thanks for making this video. One question I have for you. Do you bring your image in as a png or jpeg and then image trace so you can then start wizard function?
At the end I of the day you have to have a line to cut with lightburn. You can either do that with a vector you have or using an image the you trace. Both will work.
Thanks for the video, cool sublimation, I didn't know you could do that on wood. I just bought a FL-1390 and am new to lightburn. Its been a struggle to get some momentum going. Sort of fall a sleep because some of these trainings get way involved and a bit long winded. Any fast track videos would great if you have them? I am used to corel draw and epilog lasers... new learning curve and its a fight my homie! lol ...
This is the machine that I have: omtechlaser.com/collections/co2-cabinet-laser-engravers/products/100w-co2-laser-engraver-cutter-usb-1060-us?ref=LGS I had a friend do the sub print but I recently ordered the stuff to start doing it myself.
I wonder abou this too, how he did that, maybe like this: th-cam.com/video/3UMNDo2OIP4/w-d-xo.html (How To Transfer A Picture To Wood) If You know how it was made in this video- please write me.
I wanted to engrave some USB-Sticks with a selfmade Jig using this feature. I did everything exactly the same but my engraving was totally off. It wasn't centered on the USB but placed in the lower left corner even tough my file was perfectly centered... Do you have any idea what this could have caused?
Hello! I am attempting to make a jig to hold wooden crab mallets. How do you set up the print/cut with cardboard when the cardboard is lower than the hammers will be? In other words, do I set up the print/cut with the bed at the focus height for the cardboard? What happens when I lower the bed to load the crab hammers in the jig?
Thanks, I initially was missing a step so my alignment was off. On my version of LightBurn and xTool D1 Pro a third step is needed to make it work. After setting the second target, the Align Output step needs to be selected then it cuts as expected.
Yeah! But the next step is to automate both halves of the process - especially the calibration step. Doesn't light burn do that yet? Don't forget this feature is a simple button push from the front panel of older units like LaserBox.
Great video, however, you did not show on you sublimated the image onto the wood surface? I thought sublimation only works on 100% Polyester fabric and Polymer coated substrates. However, you did not show on you sublimated the image onto the wood surface? I thought sublimation only works on 100% Polyester fabric and Polymer coated substrates.
I noticed your head is pretty far away from your material, does that make it harder to cut through thicker boards. I use the cloudray automatic air value to control the air through lightburn, and I want to start using the dried air/cooled air from my compressor for my lasers. also can I ask what brand of tube to run?
I am using the print and cut feature to cut a piece larger than my bed. When i tell the laser where my registration marks are (1 & 2) it doesn't cut in the correct place. for some reason it shifts slightly. Any idea what would cause this?
Have you checked your red dot alignment? The first time I tried to use registration marks on a passthrough I had the problem that my cutting laser and my alignment laser weren't hitting the same spot.
This is the exact tutorial I've been looking for! Thank you!
You’re welcome! I just released a lightburn course and will have more courses specific to different lasers in the future.
Course.beardedbuildsco.com
thanks for this tutorial, it actually seems pretty easy
Wow, this is about the most rare and important instructional in the laser cutting community. I always thought it was impossible to line up after you've moved your engraving. Thanks a lot! 👍🏽
You give the BEST tutorials. Thank you!
Thanks!
Cutting with light still amazes me. Nice job!
Thank you so much for this, I remove the Job and then found I had made a mistake. Using this method I was able to reinsert the piece and fix the problem. Stay safe from Australia.
That’s awesome!
Holy cow! Thanks for this. I don't even own a laser...yet...but my interest is to print-and-cut around images on different materials. I have seen wood that has images on it that are then laser cut and I am hooked.
You’re welcome!
The prints look good, what's the sublimation technique?
Looks groovy!
I just picked up a hobby laser engraver/cutter and installed LaserGRBL. A friend of mine informed me that in addition to LaserGBL he uses Lightburn, and that I should look into it. Your video has convinced me to pick up a copy of Lightburn. Thanx!
Awesome! Glad you found my content helpful!
Great video, instruction, and direction on this feature. Being retired AF, I could swear I hear jets flying over during your video.
That totally do! We live in northern Utah close to Hill Air Force Base.
Great video. Two questions: Where do you change how many mm your laser moves when you hit the arrow? And, can you do a follow-up video on how you got the outlines and registrations marks into Lightburn?
Very cool! I like that idea. I will definitely do this when I get my laser.
Great info! I didn't know that lightburn had that feature. Thanks for sharing!
Nice feature. Good video. I would like to see how the actual printing on the wood is done.
Once I get my sublimation setup put together, I’ll do a video.
Interested in this as well.
Also interested!!!
Spray a thin layer of Polycrylic on the wood. Print the photos using a sublimation printer. Press the image on to the wood using a heat press.
I am curious. You didn't explain how you had your two outlines of the sublimation items referenced to the two bulleyes. How did you go about putting the bulleyes on the wood in correlation to the 2 items you wanted Lightburn to cut out for you? Send like a great feature I either missed it or you didn't show it.
I dont get how he registered the 2 bullseye to the picture either
Exactly what I was looking for. Why can't they make a laser cutter with a inkjet printer head built on!?
What kind of wood was that? Also what wattage laser? It seems impossible to cut through that fast. My 80w has to be slowed down to like 10mm/s at 70% power to be able to cut 5mm plywood.
This is 3mm Baltic birch cutting at 34mm/sec on my 100w. If you have to slow down that much and use nigh power like that you probably have something going on. Most of the time symptoms like this are an indication of an alignment issue. The place where alignment is the most crucial is the 3rd mirror at the top of the laser head down to the material. If that is not dead center you will lose a ton of power and if it is hitting the nozzle on the way out of your laser head then you power is diminished even more.
Nice! Like this. Need to give it a try
Thabk you for making this video
You’re welcome!
UHP for the win.
Loved this, where can I learn more about sublimating onto wood and what type of printer I would need?
Can you make video paint spray collector? I am interested how you did it?
LOVE!
Thanks!
Thanks!
I totally need the files for those rattle can holsters on the back wall!
etsy.me/3eRMSJE
Thanks for this clear explanation, my longer nano 6w has a extender bed that is only 100x300 I’m going to hopefully cut some 3mm ply to the plans of a boat, the images though are outside that size so I’m guessing at moment that for each sheet I’ll have to make a print with targets then repeat moving each part of the image into the work area, cut and then join up again after, is that how you would do it or do you have a different way to use lightburn to cut patterns that don’t fit the work area?
TIA
That’s awesome, thanks 👍
You’re welcome! 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
I THANK YOU for this video as I had been wondering about this.
The only thing I will need to do is match my red dot pointer with the actual position of my laser on my new Aeon Mira 9.. I will ask then how to do so now.
Pulse on your material and then without moving the laser head adjust the red dot to be right on top of the pulse mark.
@@BeardedBuildsCo INGENIOUSLY SIMPLE!
This is awesome - looks similar to how you line up large things through the pass through? I haven't quite gotten there yet.
Yep exactly the same!
very helpful and also very cool no laser burn marks and masking needed, are there any special settings needed to achieve that?
Hi, I have a diode laser and I've tried it like you, and it still fails... don't know what it could be..?
I must have a setting off somewhere because my cut always jumps about an 1/8 off to the right and down even though marked both reg marks.
red dot was off lol
works now
Can you show the print process please
How do you print on the plywood. Thanks for sharing. I will try this out on my laser today.
So coool !!!
You mentioned having moced your red beam right where the laser engraved, how do you do this..mine is about and 1/8" away. Thanks
Thanks, this will help a bunch. How do you sub on the wood?
So laser engraving is new to me. So let’s say you have a round piece of wood and you want a design in the center how do you tell the software where the wood is on the bed then engrave in the center. Thank you!
This is how
Machine Origin, Start Positions, and Job Origins | The first things to learn in Lightburn
th-cam.com/video/HNNNsYMIrww/w-d-xo.html
Just sent a thank you for your great instructions. Want to cut out stickers, but have PVC/gas concerns. Wonder what you use for sticker materials. Appreciate your feedback!
excellent !
Thanks!
how did you print this on the wood?Can you make a video about that as well please
Amazing! What laser machine are you using? Is that an OmTech?
How do you add your own registration marks and how do you know where they go?
You just put them in your design. They can go anywhere.
Thanks for the great video! One thing I noticed you changed the distance to .08 for jogging and when I changed mine the distance for each jog didn't change. Is there a setting I need to click for Lightburn to make changes like that to the machine?
How thick was your material AND what did you have the power set at to cut through the material?
Hello! how do you dry run the laser cutter ? what I mean is run for test without actually cutting so you know the laser path.
For this use the frame button in lightburn
Nice work !! Do you have a video on how you print on the plywood?
Not yet but I will be doing one soon!
Random question but have you ever encountered a laser crash where the head slams itself into the side wall? I only ask cause I’d love to know what caused this to happen to me an Iv had it happen 3 times now 🙄🤦🏻♂️
This is usually due to some kind of short in the axis.
So I am just starting sublimation. when I import my image which I saved as a pdf from word, the targets are fine but the outline is teensy tiny and off ctr. Also I should be able to place my sublimated piece anywhere on the bed correct?
Hi friend, first of all thanks for the tutorial. Did you print on wood using sublimation? There are some tips on the internet using a hot iron, but I don't think it looks good.
Wow!! That’s cool!! How do you do the sublimation on the 1/8 BB? That too came out nice!!👍
I had someone else do the print for me but after this I bought a printer today!
@@BeardedBuildsCo those rascals can get expensive !! Lol 😳😂
Do you need an inkjet printer or is it something else?
@@stephenkincheloe5218 I think an ink jet printer will work if you use the right sublimation paper
@@scottweinbrecht2143 and it takes sublimation ink as well, not just your regular inkjet ink.
How is the laser power off but still running without the cut? I have the polar, and I'm just now getting it figured out
On my machine there is a switch for just the power to the tube. For the polar you could set the layer power to 0 min/max and it would do the same thing.
@@BeardedBuildsCo thanks
How precise do you find it??? For me it is about 1mm not better than that I triad A4 A3 with two different printers and I cannot get it more precise...
When I do as you for some reason as I jog to the first cross hair the position maker is to the right about 1/2", when I jog to the second and zero in as you then run a text it goes over the crosshairs first, the first one is fine but the second one is off by 1/4" or so to the left and when I run it the head strays from the line, any help with this? Thanks
How did you prepare wood for sublimation?
I love your channel, I tried every step you did but unfortunately is not working, the laser is not cutting where supposed have to. Are there any way that I can learn step by step on a site or with y’all? Thank you!!
Did you ever figure this out? Mine is the same.
Where did you get those magnets!?
I have all kinds of supplies listed here through my Amazon affiliate store
Amazon.com/shop/beardedbuildsco
It’s under the laser supplies section.
The linked printer is an inkjet, not a dye-sub. Wrong link? Instead of adding a black outline, offset (overprint) the colors that are already part of the image. Then when you cut you'll be left with a clean image without a wonky black outline.
In this case I wanted the black outline. The printer linked is the printer that I converted to dye sub.
great topic but you just start from middle!! we need to the whole process
Awesome tutorial. Thanks so much.
Is your air assist connected to only run when laser is going or was it that way because you turned the laser power on and off?
How did you wire to only come on when lasering if thats the case?
I upgraded my air assist setup so that when a job starts the air turns on. I will link the video here.
th-cam.com/video/y08B1v8-q-c/w-d-xo.html
How do you do the dry run with the laser power off?
On my machine I have a key for the laser power and I just turned that off.
You could also just turn you power to 0 for min and max on the layer.
How did you change jog settings in lightburn?
In the move tab there are boxes for speed and distance change those to the desired settings.
this is going to sound silly but how do you put sublimation on wood?
@Down in the basement with Danita & Chris like polycrylic?
@Down in the basement with Danita & Chris thank you so much!
Greetings, When you say sub print are you referencing a Sublimation Printer or the sublimation from of transfer from one material to another? Frist time I heard of sub printing in woodworker. I must admit that I have been very busy the last year and have not had any time from much research. I am very curious of how you got the Navy logo onto the board in such clarity.
Got plans for he spray paint organizer in the background?
www.etsy.com/listing/994617798/
The file that was printed, how did you move that file to lightburn so that the sizes were exactly the same? What program did you use the create the drawings and how did it import into lightburn? Did you just create those registration marks with a circle and lines?
I use Adobe illustrator to do design work but this could be done with Inkscape which is free. I export as a pdf file with the registration makes that I made with the file. Then I print and import the same file into lightburn. Lightburn’s print and cut feature will actually scale everything once you have the registration marks selected so you don’t even have to worry about the size or alignment.
@@BeardedBuildsCo awesome! Thanks for explaining it. I'll give it a shot.
@@BeardedBuildsCo when you transfer it to light burn do you leave it as image and after you set the target set do you change it line to cut
All you need to bring over to lightburn is the outline to cut and the targets.
@@BeardedBuildsCo you might have figured this out already but thought I would save you some time if you haven't, you can just copy paste straight from illustrator. Beats the extra step of saving and importing. Enjoy your videos... and thanks for helping me realign my laser. Different laser but same concept and your video was the best at not complicating it.
When I do print and cut it's off by just a tiny bit.
Have you tried pulsing on your registration marks to make sure you are in the center of the target?
What type of printer are you using to print on the surface of the wood?
I have everything linked in this video
th-cam.com/video/APB2ratQew8/w-d-xo.html
Hope you make more LB videos .. wink !
I have a couple in mind!
Hi! I have a problem between Neje vs LightBurn with power. The power via Neje seems to be higher. Is there any additional laser setting in LightBurn? Thanks
What did you use to print on the wood?
Polycrylic and sublimation
Do you know if the wood was coated or was it straight sub to wood? I have had successful wood subbing by applying a thin sheet of laminate on the wood and then sublimating. Looks freaking awesome!
I put a coat of polycrylic on it before the sub.
Do you heat the poly or just let it dry natural
Whats the output (watts) on your laser?
This machine is a 100w
Nice vid mate, just seemed to jump ahead of me. I have used the print and cut feature in Lightburn and I made the registration marks in LB
but I am trying to find out exactly what you are showing in this video but before you printed,
Did you make those registration marks in the print software so that they transfer into lightburn and then be used by LB
Yes the registration marks are made with the design and also printed to the print transfer paper. Here is another video that might help as well.
th-cam.com/video/n__saOKVupA/w-d-xo.html
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thx mate, Yea I already used that video to make an oversized project and it worked out great, I was just at a loss as to how to create the print file in a sublimation printer and if the registration marks transfer exactly to my laser .
Yeah I created the design in illustrator and used it to make the print and imported the the same design into lightburn.
Thanks for making this video. One question I have for you. Do you bring your image in as a png or jpeg and then image trace so you can then start wizard function?
At the end I of the day you have to have a line to cut with lightburn. You can either do that with a vector you have or using an image the you trace. Both will work.
Thanks for the video, cool sublimation, I didn't know you could do that on wood. I just bought a FL-1390 and am new to lightburn. Its been a struggle to get some momentum going. Sort of fall a sleep because some of these trainings get way involved and a bit long winded. Any fast track videos would great if you have them? I am used to corel draw and epilog lasers... new learning curve and its a fight my homie! lol ...
What machine do you have and do you have a video on the sub print ?
This is the machine that I have:
omtechlaser.com/collections/co2-cabinet-laser-engravers/products/100w-co2-laser-engraver-cutter-usb-1060-us?ref=LGS
I had a friend do the sub print but I recently ordered the stuff to start doing it myself.
@@BeardedBuildsCo what sub printer did you get ?
amzn.to/3bnuFD9
@@BeardedBuildsCo ohh I see. So normal printer with tanks and using sub ink
This one I have to swap out the cartridges to empties that I will fill with sub ink.
Hey
Can somebody give me ID for Lightburn for free?
You can start a free trial here.
lightburnsoftware.com/pages/trial-version-try-before-you-buy
@@BeardedBuildsCo
I spent free trail
Just bought ortur laser, and I need more practise.
Sounds like it’s time to buy it.
Suggestion from an old screen printer. move your registration marks as far apart as you can. It makes the alignment process more forgiving.
I've been wanting to do exactly this!!! What's the process of getting the image to the wood? Do you have a video of that?
I wonder abou this too, how he did that, maybe like this: th-cam.com/video/3UMNDo2OIP4/w-d-xo.html (How To Transfer A Picture To Wood) If You know how it was made in this video- please write me.
They have UV Jet printers for glass wood and stone but those are pretty pricey like 10k plus
@@dwbkmj Thank You for answer. :)
are you using Lightburn for the sublimation? or how are you transferring it to lightburn so it's the same size from a different software?
How did you sublimate the wood.
How did you print color on the wood ? :D
awesome.
question... it appears you are keeping the lid OPEN while it is cutting. I thought the laser wouldn't light if the lid is open.
Disable Door Alarm and Machine Protect Sensors on OMtech Laser
th-cam.com/video/U6LhuwpaxAU/w-d-xo.html
How did you print on the wood like that?
Love the rattle-can organization on the back wall!
can you show the sub part wow
I wish if you could send us the file for the paint bottles behind you so I can use it too.
www.etsy.com/listing/994617798
How did you prepare wood for sublimation?
Polycrylic
I wanted to engrave some USB-Sticks with a selfmade Jig using this feature. I did everything exactly the same but my engraving was totally off. It wasn't centered on the USB but placed in the lower left corner even tough my file was perfectly centered...
Do you have any idea what this could have caused?
Can you tell me what sublimation printer and products you used on the birch and is that what you would recommend? Thank you.
Hello! I am attempting to make a jig to hold wooden crab mallets. How do you set up the print/cut with cardboard when the cardboard is lower than the hammers will be? In other words, do I set up the print/cut with the bed at the focus height for the cardboard? What happens when I lower the bed to load the crab hammers in the jig?
Thanks, I initially was missing a step so my alignment was off. On my version of LightBurn and xTool D1 Pro a third step is needed to make it work. After setting the second target, the Align Output step needs to be selected then it cuts as expected.
Yeah! But the next step is to automate both halves of the process - especially the calibration step. Doesn't light burn do that yet? Don't forget this feature is a simple button push from the front panel of older units like LaserBox.
Great video, however, you did not show on you sublimated the image onto the wood surface? I thought sublimation only works on 100% Polyester fabric and Polymer coated substrates. However, you did not show on you sublimated the image onto the wood surface? I thought sublimation only works on 100% Polyester fabric and Polymer coated substrates.
I noticed your head is pretty far away from your material, does that make it harder to cut through thicker boards. I use the cloudray automatic air value to control the air through lightburn, and I want to start using the dried air/cooled air from my compressor for my lasers. also can I ask what brand of tube to run?
Hi! What is that program you are using?
Ok, its probably "Lightburn" :D
Yep, lightburn
This is great Brandt. I don’t know how you switched to .08 mm to toggle the XY axis?
How did you sublimate onto the birch?
I am using the print and cut feature to cut a piece larger than my bed. When i tell the laser where my registration marks are (1 & 2) it doesn't cut in the correct place. for some reason it shifts slightly. Any idea what would cause this?
Have you checked your red dot alignment? The first time I tried to use registration marks on a passthrough I had the problem that my cutting laser and my alignment laser weren't hitting the same spot.