thanks for the video. im interested in picking one of these up... Couldn't you just wire the isolator into to ignition switch instead of using that other one? Or is there a reason you want to keep the twp separate? Thanks
That's a good question. When I wired it all up, I used the wiring diagram that came with the Cartek Unit, and it was super easy to install. I think it could have something to do with the actual kill switch operation, and the residual current that gets sent back through from the alternator on shutdown. I could be wrong, but it may have something to do with that.
I did! Just this afternoon. The cable from the battery to the Cartek is a 50 amp cable. The max current draw for the Cartek isolator is 40 amps, so the 50 amp cable is more than sufficient. The unit itself will shutoff if any more than 40 amps runs through it, so if there was any issue with a current surge, it would shut off.
Big Rig Racing I have installed the Cartek but didn’t work at all. When I turn the key nothing happens. Totally dead. I removed everything and put it back as original. Starts right away. Damn, What is wrong???
@@MrFreddan72 the interior killswitch button on the Cartek has a small led light that will not illuminate when the the battery has been isolated, will stay a solid colour when it’s good to go, and flashes when either kill switch button has been pressed or there is an issue with the cartek. To start the car, the small interior kill switch button needs to be pressed to a make a solid colour then the car will be able to be started. Also, with the cartek, all ground points on the electrical system need to be to the chassis of the car. Because the cartek itself acts as a big ground point, all electrical system need to be ground to the chassis as well.
Great use of garage space
Did you use a DT or a DTM Deutsch connector?
thanks for the video. im interested in picking one of these up... Couldn't you just wire the isolator into to ignition switch instead of using that other one? Or is there a reason you want to keep the twp separate? Thanks
That's a good question. When I wired it all up, I used the wiring diagram that came with the Cartek Unit, and it was super easy to install. I think it could have something to do with the actual kill switch operation, and the residual current that gets sent back through from the alternator on shutdown. I could be wrong, but it may have something to do with that.
Very helpful video. Thanks. I wonder one thing. The size of the cable from battery + to Cartek. What size did you use? 6mm2?
I will have to double check and let you know. It seems like a difficult install, but it’s actually very easy once you understand how it all works.
Did you have time to check the cable?
I did! Just this afternoon. The cable from the battery to the Cartek is a 50 amp cable. The max current draw for the Cartek isolator is 40 amps, so the 50 amp cable is more than sufficient. The unit itself will shutoff if any more than 40 amps runs through it, so if there was any issue with a current surge, it would shut off.
Big Rig Racing I have installed the Cartek but didn’t work at all. When I turn the key nothing happens. Totally dead. I removed everything and put it back as original. Starts right away. Damn, What is wrong???
@@MrFreddan72 the interior killswitch button on the Cartek has a small led light that will not illuminate when the the battery has been isolated, will stay a solid colour when it’s good to go, and flashes when either kill switch button has been pressed or there is an issue with the cartek.
To start the car, the small interior kill switch button needs to be pressed to a make a solid colour then the car will be able to be started.
Also, with the cartek, all ground points on the electrical system need to be to the chassis of the car. Because the cartek itself acts as a big ground point, all electrical system need to be ground to the chassis as well.
nice video thanks