This video clears up so much confusion. There is an automotive channel that fails to show where to terminate the wire for the shield which in this case is body ground. Thanks for uploading.
@@ECUMasterUSA I made a ton of progress on the car last week and had opportunity to apply this method. It works like a charm, the only thing I did different was use a butane torch to soften the outer jacketing to remove it. It degloves cleanly so the mesh isn't damaged at all.
Yup! Sound Performance called me and told me they were getting noise on my Cam and Crank wiring that I DIY’d my self. They told me they were going upgrade my wiring to shielded cables. This was back in 2019 April - my 2JZ Mk3 Supra ran so much better after this wiring upgrade.
@@ECUMasterUSA I see some harness builders twisting two wires together like how you would for CAN wiring and claimed they never had issues, I find it hard to believe. I got to agree with you guys, Shielded is the way to go. Whats You guys thoughts on this twist method though?
@@BjornFSE I've built harnesses for vag engines (on emu black) using shielded wire with a drain, shielded wire without drain, and twisted pairs for the cam/crank/knock sensors. Even on the same chassis/engine/setup I couldn't discern any differences when swapping between harnesses. All three worked flawlessly on the same car... Coil on plug, 8k redline, no issues. Obviously shielded with a drain is best, but in my experience I never had issues
@@Grimnest I send it where I ground the ecu at. I use a separate wire/lug all the way. Typically leading to a chassis ground stud. Some people use the cylinder head as their end point.
Good to see the effort in putting out videos. Would love to see the Fluid Temp sensor that you got to use the resistors on in an upcoming video, I notice quite a few people asking about it on the FB forums, including me. (I got the answer btw thx, but it will help others as a Go-To Video and help the channel out. Esp videos for frequently asked questions that you can guide people to. Sound Side Tip: You can use a plugin like Waves X-noise (Should be on sale currently) in your Video editing program to scan the silent noise/hiss and make it silent (if you over-do it it will make voice audio sound under water). but this should really help clean up the audio. Keep up the good work guys. look forward to more When I did my shielded wiring I used copper crimps on it with the "Pull wire out the braid" method, I then overkilled it by putting some light solder on the crimped terminal wires. Whilst using solder can be bad due to vibrations I didn't let it seep down far through the shield, then Strain relieved it with some glue-lined heatshrink.
So to confirmn you have two white wires there. Both wires go to both 2jz cam sensor wires? Both then return to ecu and one gets a ecu geound qnd one gets cam input ?
So for say a 2jz, shielded wire both cam,crank, knocks sensor, since all sensors aren't close together. Can I still tie in all their shield to one ground ring terminal? Or will I need to separate their shielded grounds?
My A/C wall unit is newer and it has a bare wire wrapped in aluminum foil. It's made for "Safety." It also has a reset button on the plug. My dog bit through 2 places. I repaired it, but it will not work without the bare thin wire. I tried replacing the wire, to no avail.
For ecumaster black ecu where is the best to ground the shield drain? Would it be ground to the head of the engine or one of the sensor ground pins on the ecu ?
Partially crimp in a ratcheting tool, tape the wire set so they dont slide individually (granted ur using a shielded set).. index finger and thrumb on 1 wire, middle and ring fingers holding the others, and press the crimper. Its BARELY more advanced. Also, if the shield is being terminated along with those wires, bend the shield back up, and place heat shrink tube again, then cut it ro the same length as the others.
This video clears up so much confusion. There is an automotive channel that fails to show where to terminate the wire for the shield which in this case is body ground. Thanks for uploading.
Ok. Master mechanic here. I was NOT about to do this. I was about to do some caveman shit. This is my humbling for the week. Thank you.
We have all been there man, sometimes caveman works when necc... but given the time, tools, and knowledge it's always better to finesse it!
@@ECUMasterUSA I made a ton of progress on the car last week and had opportunity to apply this method. It works like a charm, the only thing I did different was use a butane torch to soften the outer jacketing to remove it. It degloves cleanly so the mesh isn't damaged at all.
Thank you for posting this! When I was building my harness it took a bit of time and research to get this part figured out
it's definitely a skill that is not taught often.
Yup! Sound Performance called me and told me they were getting noise on my Cam and Crank wiring that I DIY’d my self. They told me they were going upgrade my wiring to shielded cables. This was back in 2019 April - my 2JZ Mk3 Supra ran so much better after this wiring upgrade.
Shielded is the way to a clean signal for sure.
@@ECUMasterUSA I see some harness builders twisting two wires together like how you would for CAN wiring and claimed they never had issues, I find it hard to believe.
I got to agree with you guys, Shielded is the way to go. Whats You guys thoughts on this twist method though?
@@BjornFSE I've built harnesses for vag engines (on emu black) using shielded wire with a drain, shielded wire without drain, and twisted pairs for the cam/crank/knock sensors. Even on the same chassis/engine/setup I couldn't discern any differences when swapping between harnesses. All three worked flawlessly on the same car...
Coil on plug, 8k redline, no issues. Obviously shielded with a drain is best, but in my experience I never had issues
@@TheDroidKilla where exactly does the drain go? Chassis ground? ECU ground?
@@Grimnest I send it where I ground the ecu at. I use a separate wire/lug all the way. Typically leading to a chassis ground stud.
Some people use the cylinder head as their end point.
Now I want to do my whole wiring harness lol. Great video
Shielded has it's place, the whole harness might be a little much... but we fully support the effort to use it where needed.
Good to see the effort in putting out videos.
Would love to see the Fluid Temp sensor that you got to use the resistors on in an upcoming video, I notice quite a few people asking about it on the FB forums, including me. (I got the answer btw thx, but it will help others as a Go-To Video and help the channel out.
Esp videos for frequently asked questions that you can guide people to.
Sound Side Tip: You can use a plugin like Waves X-noise (Should be on sale currently) in your Video editing program to scan the silent noise/hiss and make it silent (if you over-do it it will make voice audio sound under water). but this should really help clean up the audio.
Keep up the good work guys. look forward to more
When I did my shielded wiring I used copper crimps on it with the "Pull wire out the braid" method, I then overkilled it by putting some light solder on the crimped terminal wires. Whilst using solder can be bad due to vibrations I didn't let it seep down far through the shield, then Strain relieved it with some glue-lined heatshrink.
What do you do with the black wire? What’s it for? Grounding?
Paul
Thank you for the video. It helped a lot.
So to confirmn you have two white wires there. Both wires go to both 2jz cam sensor wires? Both then return to ecu and one gets a ecu geound qnd one gets cam input ?
So for say a 2jz, shielded wire both cam,crank, knocks sensor, since all sensors aren't close together. Can I still tie in all their shield to one ground ring terminal? Or will I need to separate their shielded grounds?
Do you have a link to the actual wire you used?
My A/C wall unit is newer and it has a bare wire wrapped in aluminum foil. It's made for "Safety." It also has a reset button on the plug. My dog bit through 2 places. I repaired it, but it will not work without the bare thin wire. I tried replacing the wire, to no avail.
What about the other end of the wire that goes to the ecu? Ground that shieled wire also?
The shield should only be grounded on one end.
For ecumaster black ecu where is the best to ground the shield drain? Would it be ground to the head of the engine or one of the sensor ground pins on the ecu ?
Any reliable chassis ground would work.
I just wanted to know where to put wire connected to shield
You can drain to a good chassis ground.
@@ECUMasterUSA not engine ground ??
I’ll do the copper open splice 😅
Partially crimp in a ratcheting tool, tape the wire set so they dont slide individually (granted ur using a shielded set).. index finger and thrumb on 1 wire, middle and ring fingers holding the others, and press the crimper. Its BARELY more advanced. Also, if the shield is being terminated along with those wires, bend the shield back up, and place heat shrink tube again, then cut it ro the same length as the others.
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