@@Benefits-ix9jy for transmissions with a metal oil pan at the bottom, you probably get the best reading by pointing at the pan. On this model with the oil pan installed sideways, I found the closest reading from the front driver side, near where the fill hole is (see where I point at 7:17 in the video).
@@Benefits-ix9jy It's a great scanner with bidirectional features beyond what we need for ATF temperature measurement here. There are cheaper options including Launch scanners (at around $150) and even basic bluetooth OBD2 interfaces ($30 or so) that can read ATF temperature in this video (check out video description and comments too): th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Sir for the video! Well all I can say is that changing the transmission fluid on a 2023 Rav4 Hybrid is incredibly easy. REMEMBER, EMPHASIS on it being a Hybrid! You still have to go underneathe BUT you drain (entire amount) and then refill until it overflows, let it come to a slight drip to level out and you're DONE. The same for your rear differential as well. You should do BOTH at the same fluid change. The differential takes the same transmission fluid.
Thanks for sharing! Yes, it's a different type of transmission with the same WS fluid (?). I like the traditional transaxle/differential fluid procedure to fill until it overflows, which is much easier.
Thank you Professor for the excellent explanation and video. Just a few details for the 2019 and up Lexus ES350. The fill plug is exactly the same, however the drain plug has been changed. You remove the main drain plug, and threaded up into the transmission drain is an entirely plastic filler tube that has NO gaskets. It comes out using a 6mm Hex socket. Both the filler plug and drain plug utilize the same part number crush washer, -A0003. Otherwise, it is the same as in your video!
Thanks for the feedback and for sharing! The plastic tube that comes out with a 6mm hex bit is similar to what I had on an older Camry. Glad to know it helped!
This is a terrible design. I am really surprised that Lexus would put something like this on their cars. Thank you for the video. It is very helpful. 👍
Agreed! I too prefer having a dipstick. But unfortunately this new design is increasingly common. It not only adds unnecessary complexity to an otherwise simple maintenance procedure but also give people the wrong impression (perhaps intentionally) as a "sealed" and "life-time" transmission. Glad the video was helpful!
I'm always interested in how others check the fluid temperature. So far everyone is using the scan tool or very inaccurate temp gun. The most accurate and cheapest way to measure the fluid temperature is. Everyone has this in their kitchen drawer. It's called the meat thermometer. The one with the long cable or Bluetooth works the best. I found a cheap silicone plugs on Amazon. I use this to plug the check valve hole. Insert the meat thermometer point through the silicone plug. Once it reaches 104 to 113 degrees, the thermometer will beep or keep your eyes on it. Simply Uncork the plug and let it drain to trickle. You're done. Be sure to shift back and forth between the gears to distribute the fluid evenly throughout the transmission before discharging the fluid.
Interesting! No problem with the meat thermometer, but I believe the main challenge for this approach is to find an adaptor (in your case, the silicone plug) to seal it while the engine is running. Feel free to share the link to the silicone plug you used. For a Toyota/Lexus with a metal transmission oil pan though, a temperature gun will be good enough to measure the external/pan temperature within the 10 - 20 degree range.
Does the engine need to be running when you drain the new fluid to the proper level? Can you shut it off once it reaches the proper temperature before crawling under the car?
Short answers: 1st question Yes and second question No. It has been the standard procedure in Toyota Land to check the transmission level with the engine RUNNING. Unfortunately, you cannot shut off the engine and then crawl under the car to set the level, in which case you will drain WAY too much fluid out. I feel your pain, and here are a few tips to make sure it's safe when you crawl under-- 1) If yours is a mid-size SUV like the RX350, there is enough clearance and you don't have to take off the driver-side front wheel. Simply leave the vehicle on the ground, turn the driver-size wheel to access the filler cap, and funnel fluid from above on the engine bay. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxlxN61xUF7a79b6kffcOAojgcvDfuwNzh 2) If you do raise your car and take off the wheel, put the wheel under the vehicle as an extra safety measure. Also, leave the floor jack lightly engaged in the front after lowering the car onto the jack stands. And safety goggles.
So i am familiar with the temperature process but i am having trouble with something. I started draining while it was cold until it started trickling. Then i started the car until it reached 104 degrees. When i opened the drain plug again nothing came out. If transmission fluid expands why did i get no fluid coming out? There should have been some fluid in the overflow chamber.
@@nightnday6675 I understand what you did and the reasoning behind it. This is not a surprise though. First, I assume you drained/checked the fluid when COLD WITH ENGINE RUNNING. Otherwise, you would have drained too much fluid out. Granted this was followed, one would expect the fluid to expand and more will come out. And here is the other factor often overlooked in this procedure, the transmission cooler BYPASS LINE/VALVE. When one drains it at a cold temperature, the bypass valve is likely closed and some fluid will come back to the sump/pan. The cooler line won't run full circulation of fluid until it reaches a certain temperature and the valve is open again. On BMWs with ZF transmissions, the recommended temperature range will allow the valve to open and circulate ATF in the bypass line. I believe it's a same idea on a Toyota/Lexus. And this is another reason why checking the fluid at the correct temperature is so critical, to take in account the small amount of fluid in/out of the cooler bypass line. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the details of the video. Just wondering have you measured how many quarts when you drain out? I noticed 2013 RX350 only needs 2-1/2 quarts ... can you confirm ?
Good question! I didn't measure it precisely but I put 3-1/2 quarts in and get roughly 1/4 quart out. So I'd say it's in the neighborhood of 3-1/4 quarts for this new generation (2017 Rx).
From your local Toyota dealership, tell them your part numbers (which I posted in the video description for the 2017 RX350 in video) but you can ask them to find your parts based on year/model/trim. Some dealerships are online too (e.g. on eBay). For example, this Toyota dealership has the o-ring: ebay.us/AxAcVn
Excellent Video. My wife has a 2019 RX350 with 75,000 miles and the dealer said there's no need for oil change since the transmission is sealed. It really sounds weird and wrong and I insisted with the Service Manager and he said they don't recommend doing anything at all.
Thank you! I'd replace it with a drain-and-fill at this mileage. No need to replace the filter (or strainer) though in Toyota/Lexus land. I totally agree that this notion of "sealed transmission" is confusing and wrong. I have a couple of videos on this "controversial" topic but would like to share my latest observations while I was searching for a used vehicle from a different brand-- Subaru, for example, have different recommendations on (CVT) transmission services in the U.S.A. vs. in Japan. Here in the states, they say it's all "sealed" and no service required. But Subaru Japan recommends 30k-mile (50k kms) intervals for the exact same vehicles. You see the only difference is the market and it has nothing to do with vehicle design/engineering. On a related note, BMW has the same "sealed", no service recommendation on its ZF transmissions. However, ZF, the transmission's manufacturer, has a recommended service (fluid and filter change) interval of 50k miles (or 30k? I will have to double check on this). Who knows better the transmissions? The bottom line is: All fluid breaks down over time and should be refreshed at some point!
Yes I ran into this problem also they tell me they do not do this service and I’m like what??? I just think it would be better off fluid change fill and replace but the only reason I can think off so it breaks down and you have to buy another car… 🤷🏻♂️ have you done this transmission fluid change? If so at a dealer? Or where? Thanks!
I'd be happy to if I have a chance to work on this model. It's likely similar but it may require different types/sizes of bits to take out the overflow tube and plug. On Toyota and Lexus vehicles I've worked on, the fill cap/plug has been consistently 24mm near the front driver-size wheel. The tube itself is usually removed with a hex bit, though the size differs on different models (e.g. 6mm hex on a Camry but 17mm hex on the RX here). ClubLexus may have further information: www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-5th-gen-2018-present-289/
Profe!!! That was a well explained video, thank you! I was searching for the scan tool that you used but it is a bit expensive over $400. Do you have any other cheaper recommendations for a scan tool? Thank you
Glad it was helpful! They are some options in the $100-200 range, for example: FOXWELL NT614 Elite Car Scanner, 2023 Engine Airbag Transmission ABS Scan Tool with 5 Services ABS Bleeding, SAS Calibration, EPB Throttle Oil Light Reset Tool, Live Data OBD2 Scanner Diagnostic Tool a.co/d/35mE3zP There are subscription models cheaper for the first year but expensive to own over time, for example: KINGBOLEN Ediag All Systems Obd2 Scanner Bluetooth, Bidirectional OBDII Diagnostic Tool with ECU Coding, Active Test, 15+ Reset Functions, TPMS Reset for iPhone & Android, All Software 1 Year Free a.co/d/hYuIDhb Both of these support reading transmission temperature.
@@GG-un5wk Wanted to follow up on the question here. You can use a budget scanner with Torque Pro app and knowledge of a correct PID for your vehicle to measure ATF temperature. Details in this video: th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html
@@profsg thank you profe. I will watch the video. I ended up getting the fox one and it was very helpful when I changed the transmission fluid. Thank you for following up!
I have questions on torque and part numbers. You have part #s for washer and O rings on RX 350. What would be the part #s for a 2021 Rav4 XLE be? Under Remove Filler Cap you have #6 for overflow tube @ 36 Ft-lbs., #9 filler cap 36 ft-lbs. and #12 for the drain plug @ 7 ft-lbs. What would be the torque for 2021 Rav4 XLE? Thanks!
On Toyota/Lexus vehicles, the ATF fill cap is generally the same 24mm and, if that's the case on yours, the torque should be the same 36 lb-ft. As for torques for overflow tube and drain, here is a related post: www.rav4world.com/threads/did-a-transmission-drain-and-fill.305457/
As for part numbers, double check but here is what I found: 1) Washer for the 24mm filler cap should be the same: #90430-A0003, amzn.to/4ebsQaR 2) For the overflow/drain plug, I believe you only have one drain washer (crush washer not rubber gasket): 90430-18008, amzn.to/3X6mYd5 Again, they should fit but please double check.
@@profsg I finally got around to addressing the fluids on my 2021 Rav4 XLE Gas. Here are the PNs 1) For the fill and drain plugs on the transmission the PN is 90430-A0003, which are flat washers. The cost at the dealer was $2.04 each and you need 2. 2) There is no O ring for the overflow tube. 3) For the fill and drain plugs on both the Transfer Case and Differential all 4 are crush washers and PN is 12157-10010. The cost at the dealer is $1.98 each, you need 4.
This has more features (e.g. bi-directional controls) than what's needed to measure the transmission temperature. The price is good given those advanced features. But if your primary use is about the tranny temperature, there are other less expensive options.
Hello, I have a 2016 nx200t. I live in the Austin, TX area. I'm not sure where you are located however do you have any contacts/shops in this area that would know the proper procedure that I could trust to perform if I'm not able to myself? Thank you.
Thanks for the inquiry! I don't have affiliated shops but you can use one of the following options: 1) Lexus dealership: Find a trusted Toyota or Lexus dealership to perform the replacement. Lexus has a great presence in your area (with its US headquarter in TX) and they have a standard procedure for this WS fluid replacement. Some dealerships may tell you don't need it but it's required for a towing vehicle. Find a dealership that is supportive of this replacement even if it's not used for towing. 2) Christian Brothers Automotive: I have used them in PA for state inspections (which I couldn't do it myself) and they are very transparent about services they perform, e.g. with visual reports. If you use them, ask them about whether their technicians are familiar with this Toyota/Lexus procedure and ask them to use the Toyota WS fluid. If you do it yourself, the key is to set the fluid level within the correct temperature range. I have another video about measuring ATF with a budget OBD2 scanner: th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps.
I actually had checked with one Lexus dealership here and they would not do a drain/fill, only a flush for $450. I will check with another one here in town and see what they say. I will also check with CB Automotive as you advised. Thank you for responding - I appreciate it! @@profsg
My mechanic, used a simple approach. He measured the volume that was drained and then filled up the same measure. This is for my rx350. It has run for a year now. The question to the Professor is why go the extra length with temperature measurement?
Sure. This is a frequently asked question and I'm happy to answer it again. :) First, what I did in the video is the standard service procedure for Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Second, I have two reasons against the volume-match approach your mechanic followed: 1) The premise of the volume-matched approach is that the existing/old fluid in the transmission was at the correct level. While no one would doubt a correct factory fill, chances are over the years the fluid might have been touched or lost/reduced due to leaking, fluid degradation, etc. You won't get to the correct level by matching an already incorrect old fluid level. 2) The volume of fluid varies at different temperature levels so you will have to measure both (old vs. new) at the same temperature. Especially for a vehicle with a lot of miles/services, I wouldn't trust the existing fluid level is correct. Hope this clarifies.
Dear Garage Professor, Thanks for the detailed demonstration and explanation and a very well organized video. At 1:24, you mentioned removing the passenger side wheel. Did you actually mean the driver side wheel?
Great catch! I didn’t realize I misspoke in the video but you are correct that it should be the driver side wheel that you take off. On some models, it’s also possible to keep the wheel on by turning/steering it sideways to access the transmission filler cap, and feed a flex funnel above from under the hood (near the brake fluid master cylinder I believe). I haven’t tried this though.
NEW video for those of you interested in using a BUDGET ($30) scanner to meausre ATF temperature: th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html Links to OBD2 scanners: 0. $25 OBD2 Interface (if you can find the PID for ATF on your car): amzn.to/4aemZPi 1. LAUNCH Creader Elite 205 ($140): amzn.to/3PqcZKT 2. Launch CRP129E ($200): amzn.to/3Tk0QbL 3. XTool D7 ($325): amzn.to/3wUAHZk * Disclosure: As an eBay Partner and Amazon Affiliate, I may be compensated if you make a purchase from the product links.
Most likely you overfilled the transmission. The same fluid at a lower temperature will expand when it gets hot. You can do another fluid check, i.e. to drain more at the correct/higher temperature.
You don't need to measure the temperature... As long as the transmission fluid is not leaking... You can measure what you drained out and replace the exact same amount.
Yes if the fluid condition is okay, no leak, no one ever touched it since factory or fluid replacement was done correctly the last time. And measure both old and new fluid at the same temperature (cold).
I have a 70k miles 2017 RX350 certified at 60k by Lexus. The Lexus mechanic claims we should never change or even inspect the fluid since they are sealed transmissions with "world standard fluid". What do you think? Can you help Professor?
That statement of the mechanic is partially true. I have another video on this question: th-cam.com/video/X7iQ8hWcB_w/w-d-xo.html Yes, it is WS (world standard) fluid and Lexus doesn't include fluid replacement on the service schedule under normal driving conditions. HOWEVER, this is not really sealed and life-time. For one, Lexus DOES recommend fluid replacement at 60,000 miles under severe driving conditions, e.g. towing. I discuss these and more in the linked video above.
I’d be very skeptical of that. Jaguar marketed “sealed for life” on the 04-09 models and by the time ZF (manufacturer) stepped in and refuted that lie, people were way past the manufacturer’s service interval.
It's getting a bit risky beyond 120k miles, but it really depends on previous driving conditions. What year was the ES350? If it's relatively new with a lot of highway miles without towing (unlikely for an ES ;), then it's relatively safe for a drain-and-fill. But again there is always a risk and I analyze the question in the video here: th-cam.com/video/X7iQ8hWcB_w/w-d-xo.html
How are you? I wondered if it is also applicable to Toyota. I have 2011 camry now with 125,600 miles and highlander 2014 with 105,000 and no tow hitch on both of them and both have no dipstick trans fluid. So far they are running well. I bought them 2nd hand with both at little over 30000 miles for Camry and 42500 miles for Highlander. So I do not think the previous owners changed trans fluid. If it is applicable to Toyota, given these 2 cars' mileages, Can I proceed to do transm fluid change, even they both are driven fine? Chanpho
Yes, it is similar on Toyotas. I also had a 2011 Camry and sold it a few years ago at 70,000 miles or so. Before that, I replaced the sealed transmission fluid at around 60,000 miles. It was a great vehicle! The procedure is the same except it's a different drive bit (hex) to take out the drain plug/tube. With a Toyota vehicle over 100k miles that has never towed, I personally would change the fluid, drain and fill. It is behind schedule but I don't think it's too late for the following reason: According to my Lexus (maintenance) manual/schedule--and you can check your Toyota schedule but it's probably similar--the recommended first transmission fluid change is at 60,000 miles if the vehicle has TOWED. So for a vehicle that hasn't put extra loads on the transmission, it should be able to endure a longer interval before its first transmission replacement. This is a subject of debate and it's only my personal take. I'd drain and fill now, and then follow the 30k mile interval going forward. Best luck!
Hey man, great video ! My 2006 lexus is250 is at 114,000 miles and I'm not sure if the transmission fluid was ever changed. Do you recommend changing it now ? I don't feep like it's showing any problems or anything.
Thanks for the feedback! On whether to replace the fluid on your 114k mile transmission, it's a matter of debate but here is my take-- If it hasn't been used for towing, I would start to replace the transmission fluid. Drain and fill, and see how it responds. If it continues to run smoothly, follow the recommended interval (30k miles) for future drain-and-fills. According to my Rx350 manual, the official Lexus recommendation is to replace the fluid at 60,000 miles for TOWING a trailer. You can see that in this video: th-cam.com/video/mx-fRPakHtI/w-d-xo.html Without towing, it's reasonable to assume the fluid is good for a higher mileage. So I think it's a bit behind schedule but not too late to replace the fluid at 114k. Keep us posted.
@@profsg hey man, thanks a lot for your reply. I'll start making preparations for drain and fill. Without a Garage, its pretty hard to do this yourself because of the regulations here in Germany. I'm planning to prepare everything and rent a garage for a few hours to do it. I'm new to automotive stuff, researched a lot for the last two months, bled the brake fluid, changed the thermostat, changed engine oil+filter and flushed the radiator in the last month right after my purchase of the lexus, but somehow the transmission drain and fill sound the most risky as I have anxiety if i fill it the wrong amount or if its already too less fluid and im not sure how to identify it. I'll watch your other video as well, and hope its okay to ask you more questions in the future 😅
Glad to be helpful and hear about what you've accomplished! Two tips here-- 1) Make sure you have a good level ground and support for the raised vehicle. Be safe! 2) And always remove the fill plug first before draining the fluid. For many Toyota/Lexus models, it's a 24mm cap so you likely need a longer breaker bar with an extension. For example, a 3/8-inch drive ratchet is often good enough for oil change but a 1/2-inch drive is ideal for the 24mm fill plug removal here. Best luck!
While I doubt you have underfilled ATF from factory, there is a possibility that someone servicing your car might have mistakenly drain your ATF. Yes, ATF operating temperature can potentially go high if the fluid is underfilled. However, the standard procedure for checking ATF level is to remove the tube plug at the specified temperature and see if there is fluid trickling out. If there is no fluid overflowing, you have an underfill and should add fluid right there. If your vehicle is a SUV like RX350, you don't have to raise it as there is enough clearance underneath the car on the ground to reach the transmission tube/drain plug. Good luck!
This is a "classic" shortcut. :) However, I don't recommend doing so for the following reasons: 1) This method assumes a correct amount/level of existing fluid in your transmission. While it's safe to assume they did it correctly in the factory, there is always a risk someone may have touched the transmission and set it at an incorrect level. 2) Even if the above is correct, you will have to measure the amount accurately under the same temperature. Modern transmissions are sensitive to the fluid level so make sure you set the level correctly. Also, there is a budget-friendly OBD2 option ($30 or so) to measure the temperature accurately, check out this video: th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html
Good question! The ATF filters are for two scenarios-- 1) For those (me included in the past) who believed that any filter should be replaced as a regular maintenance item. For latest Toyota filter/strainers, as I realized, the replacement interval could be as long as 200 or 300k miles (or even longer hypothetically). 2) And for those who have transmission problems when filter replacement is naturally part of the job.
@@profsg why would changing the filter cause issues? If anything would cause issues, I would think not replacing it would…transmissions operate on hydraulic pressure…if the filter is clogged, it restricts flow and the clutch material is trapped anyway, so it’s not the same as having material in the fluid - what am I missing?
@@js6752 Replacing the transmission filter itself, if done right with the right parts, won't cause any issues and is in fact beneficial. The problem is replacing it with a much inferior after-market filter. And even worse, after taking off the pan, replace it with an after-market gasket and perhaps strip a couple of pan bolts there. The transmission will leak and after-market filtration is not ideal! Don't ask me how I know it but you can watch this video: th-cam.com/video/mx-fRPakHtI/w-d-xo.html If you really want to replace it, do it with ALL genuine/OE parts. Otherwise, if you replace ATF regularly, your Toyota filter (probably a strainer) won't get clogged.
And one more thing if you do want to remove the pan to replace the filter inside. Use penetrating oil on the pan bolts (be generous there) and be very patient (preferably overnight with multiple applications of penetrating oil) before taking them out. I was very gentle on them yet still managed to strip two of them. It was a PAIN to drill them out! This was on my Camry years ago. And after going through all the trouble, hopefully, you will come to the same conclusion the replacement is unnecessary--not because of the trouble but because of the perfect condition of the filter inside! 😅
You will know it if it's difficult to engage or shift gear. I guess your IS250 is over 150k miles and it's a bit late to replace transmission fluid now. Definitely no flushing it at this point. Fill and drain is what I'd do, though some mechanics may advice against it.
It should be minimal play, if any. If it's more and/or you experience clicking/popping noise when driving/turning, you may have a worn/damaged axle/joint.
Im having a rotational huming noise only at 45 mph exactly at 45 after that is no noise and my lexus has a litle inner cv axle play no clicking or popping noise at turning thats why i was asking how mutch is normal
@@musicacristiana9795 Does it sound from the wheel bearing or tire? Is there play at the wheel? In the context of this video, do you suspect it's from the transmission/transaxle here? Does it have the same noise in different gears at 45 mph?
Sounds like a bad wheel bearing but no play at the wheel and only makes it at 45 mph exactly at that speed at 46 mph no more nose , i have put the car in neutral at 45 mph to see if it quiets down and still can be heard the sound , the cv axle has a lil play up n down not sure if that has something to do
I think if you’re only doing a drain and fill like this - the 30k mile interval makes sense since you’re only replacing about 30% of the fluid. On the other hand, if you go to the dealer, they replace the entire 12 quarts and 30k would be excessive if not detrimental. I just had my 2013 done at 90k miles for the first time
Yes, that makes sense! For dealers or shops with the machine, it's easier for them to hook it up and do the flush. But it's always better/safer with a drain-and-fill. Good you did it at 90k!
Thanks! The full capacity is a bit over 7 quarts, but you are right, this doesn't replace all the fluid. And so is a regular engine oil change. The idea is not necessarily to replace all fluid but to renew it with fresh fluid. If you do this regularly, every 30,000 miles, this will be sufficient to keep the transmission running smoothly. I have another video discussing the interval of doing this and the benefit of only drain and fill. Will add a link below.
No, I didn't. It's good enough to do it once every 30,000 miles. You could do this multiple times if you like to replace more fluid out, but only do so if you have done it regularly since the vehicle was on lower mileage. On a high mileage vehicle where this service hasn't been done before, do it once and see how it goes. Hope this makes sense.
You may ask them if that means lifetime warranty of the transmission or what exactly "lifetime" means. Here is my take: th-cam.com/video/X7iQ8hWcB_w/w-d-xo.html
I f’ed up… I do Uber.. my 2018 Camry has 152k right now… never did a transmission fluid change… last week I notice a few times my car doesn’t gear down to first gear
Sorry to hear about that! Unfortunately, it might be too late to perform a transmission fluid change now with 152k demanding miles on it. If you consider taking the risk to do a drain and fill to potentially extend its life, I'd recommend a transmission oil analysis to better understand the fluid condition and make an informed decision.
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What a great and very detailed video. I appreciate that you took the time to get all the camera angles, and explain everything step by step.
Glad it was helpful!
@@profsg where to aim the infrared thermometer in the transmission to get most accurate reading
@@Benefits-ix9jy for transmissions with a metal oil pan at the bottom, you probably get the best reading by pointing at the pan. On this model with the oil pan installed sideways, I found the closest reading from the front driver side, near where the fill hole is (see where I point at 7:17 in the video).
@@profsg how to you like the Xtool d7 scan tool
@@Benefits-ix9jy It's a great scanner with bidirectional features beyond what we need for ATF temperature measurement here. There are cheaper options including Launch scanners (at around $150) and even basic bluetooth OBD2 interfaces ($30 or so) that can read ATF temperature in this video (check out video description and comments too): th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html
Great job, better than The Car Care Nut instructions IMHO.
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
Morons are everywhere!
You are the best, great video and very easy to follow.
Thanks! I'm so glad to hear it was helpful!
That was great, very detailed and concise explanations!
Thanks for the feedback! Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Sir for the video!
Well all I can say is that changing the transmission fluid on a 2023 Rav4 Hybrid is incredibly easy.
REMEMBER, EMPHASIS on it being a Hybrid! You still have to go underneathe BUT you drain (entire amount) and then refill until it overflows, let it come to a slight drip to level out and you're DONE. The same for your rear differential as well. You should do BOTH at the same fluid change. The differential takes the same transmission fluid.
Thanks for sharing! Yes, it's a different type of transmission with the same WS fluid (?). I like the traditional transaxle/differential fluid procedure to fill until it overflows, which is much easier.
Thank you Professor for the excellent explanation and video. Just a few details for the 2019 and up Lexus ES350. The fill plug is exactly the same, however the drain plug has been changed. You remove the main drain plug, and threaded up into the transmission drain is an entirely plastic filler tube that has NO gaskets. It comes out using a 6mm Hex socket. Both the filler plug and drain plug utilize the same part number crush washer, -A0003. Otherwise, it is the same as in your video!
Thanks for the feedback and for sharing! The plastic tube that comes out with a 6mm hex bit is similar to what I had on an older Camry. Glad to know it helped!
This is a terrible design. I am really surprised that Lexus would put something like this on their cars. Thank you for the video. It is very helpful. 👍
Agreed! I too prefer having a dipstick. But unfortunately this new design is increasingly common. It not only adds unnecessary complexity to an otherwise simple maintenance procedure but also give people the wrong impression (perhaps intentionally) as a "sealed" and "life-time" transmission. Glad the video was helpful!
It was not a terrible design! It was intended.
Anything to make DIY as inconvenient or difficult as possible
Everyone is doing it. Especially CVT
@@wt9653 True.
I'm always interested in how others check the fluid temperature.
So far everyone is using the scan tool or very inaccurate temp gun.
The most accurate and cheapest way to measure the fluid temperature is.
Everyone has this in their kitchen drawer. It's called the meat thermometer. The one with the long cable or Bluetooth works the best.
I found a cheap silicone plugs on Amazon.
I use this to plug the check valve hole. Insert the meat thermometer point through the silicone plug. Once it reaches 104 to 113 degrees, the thermometer will beep or keep your eyes on it. Simply Uncork the plug and let it drain to trickle. You're done.
Be sure to shift back and forth between the gears to distribute the fluid evenly throughout the transmission before discharging the fluid.
Interesting! No problem with the meat thermometer, but I believe the main challenge for this approach is to find an adaptor (in your case, the silicone plug) to seal it while the engine is running. Feel free to share the link to the silicone plug you used. For a Toyota/Lexus with a metal transmission oil pan though, a temperature gun will be good enough to measure the external/pan temperature within the 10 - 20 degree range.
Does the engine need to be running when you drain the new fluid to the proper level? Can you shut it off once it reaches the proper temperature before crawling under the car?
Short answers: 1st question Yes and second question No. It has been the standard procedure in Toyota Land to check the transmission level with the engine RUNNING. Unfortunately, you cannot shut off the engine and then crawl under the car to set the level, in which case you will drain WAY too much fluid out. I feel your pain, and here are a few tips to make sure it's safe when you crawl under--
1) If yours is a mid-size SUV like the RX350, there is enough clearance and you don't have to take off the driver-side front wheel. Simply leave the vehicle on the ground, turn the driver-size wheel to access the filler cap, and funnel fluid from above on the engine bay. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxlxN61xUF7a79b6kffcOAojgcvDfuwNzh
2) If you do raise your car and take off the wheel, put the wheel under the vehicle as an extra safety measure. Also, leave the floor jack lightly engaged in the front after lowering the car onto the jack stands. And safety goggles.
THIS CHANNEL IS SO UNDERRATED! SO MUCH GOOD INFORMATION!!!
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!
So i am familiar with the temperature process but i am having trouble with something. I started draining while it was cold until it started trickling. Then i started the car until it reached 104 degrees. When i opened the drain plug again nothing came out. If transmission fluid expands why did i get no fluid coming out? There should have been some fluid in the overflow chamber.
@@nightnday6675 I understand what you did and the reasoning behind it. This is not a surprise though. First, I assume you drained/checked the fluid when COLD WITH ENGINE RUNNING. Otherwise, you would have drained too much fluid out. Granted this was followed, one would expect the fluid to expand and more will come out. And here is the other factor often overlooked in this procedure, the transmission cooler BYPASS LINE/VALVE. When one drains it at a cold temperature, the bypass valve is likely closed and some fluid will come back to the sump/pan. The cooler line won't run full circulation of fluid until it reaches a certain temperature and the valve is open again. On BMWs with ZF transmissions, the recommended temperature range will allow the valve to open and circulate ATF in the bypass line. I believe it's a same idea on a Toyota/Lexus. And this is another reason why checking the fluid at the correct temperature is so critical, to take in account the small amount of fluid in/out of the cooler bypass line. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the details of the video. Just wondering have you measured how many quarts when you drain out? I noticed 2013 RX350 only needs 2-1/2 quarts ... can you confirm ?
Good question! I didn't measure it precisely but I put 3-1/2 quarts in and get roughly 1/4 quart out. So I'd say it's in the neighborhood of 3-1/4 quarts for this new generation (2017 Rx).
The total capacity is 12 quarts but with a drain and fill, you only replace about 2-4 quarts.
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
Where did you get your washers and "O" rings?
From your local Toyota dealership, tell them your part numbers (which I posted in the video description for the 2017 RX350 in video) but you can ask them to find your parts based on year/model/trim. Some dealerships are online too (e.g. on eBay). For example, this Toyota dealership has the o-ring: ebay.us/AxAcVn
Excellent Video. My wife has a 2019 RX350 with 75,000 miles and the dealer said there's no need for oil change since the transmission is sealed. It really sounds weird and wrong and I insisted with the Service Manager and he said they don't recommend doing anything at all.
Thank you! I'd replace it with a drain-and-fill at this mileage. No need to replace the filter (or strainer) though in Toyota/Lexus land. I totally agree that this notion of "sealed transmission" is confusing and wrong. I have a couple of videos on this "controversial" topic but would like to share my latest observations while I was searching for a used vehicle from a different brand--
Subaru, for example, have different recommendations on (CVT) transmission services in the U.S.A. vs. in Japan. Here in the states, they say it's all "sealed" and no service required. But Subaru Japan recommends 30k-mile (50k kms) intervals for the exact same vehicles. You see the only difference is the market and it has nothing to do with vehicle design/engineering.
On a related note, BMW has the same "sealed", no service recommendation on its ZF transmissions. However, ZF, the transmission's manufacturer, has a recommended service (fluid and filter change) interval of 50k miles (or 30k? I will have to double check on this). Who knows better the transmissions?
The bottom line is: All fluid breaks down over time and should be refreshed at some point!
Yes I ran into this problem also they tell me they do not do this service and I’m like what??? I just think it would be better off fluid change fill and replace but the only reason I can think off so it breaks down and you have to buy another car… 🤷🏻♂️ have you done this transmission fluid change? If so at a dealer? Or where? Thanks!
Do you possibly have tutorials for this process on a lexus LS500?
I'd be happy to if I have a chance to work on this model. It's likely similar but it may require different types/sizes of bits to take out the overflow tube and plug. On Toyota and Lexus vehicles I've worked on, the fill cap/plug has been consistently 24mm near the front driver-size wheel. The tube itself is usually removed with a hex bit, though the size differs on different models (e.g. 6mm hex on a Camry but 17mm hex on the RX here). ClubLexus may have further information: www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-5th-gen-2018-present-289/
Profe!!! That was a well explained video, thank you! I was searching for the scan tool that you used but it is a bit expensive over $400. Do you have any other cheaper recommendations for a scan tool? Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
They are some options in the $100-200 range, for example:
FOXWELL NT614 Elite Car Scanner, 2023 Engine Airbag Transmission ABS Scan Tool with 5 Services ABS Bleeding, SAS Calibration, EPB Throttle Oil Light Reset Tool, Live Data OBD2 Scanner Diagnostic Tool a.co/d/35mE3zP
There are subscription models cheaper for the first year but expensive to own over time, for example:
KINGBOLEN Ediag All Systems Obd2 Scanner Bluetooth, Bidirectional OBDII Diagnostic Tool with ECU Coding, Active Test, 15+ Reset Functions, TPMS Reset for iPhone & Android, All Software 1 Year Free a.co/d/hYuIDhb
Both of these support reading transmission temperature.
@@profsg thank you so much profe.
@@GG-un5wk Wanted to follow up on the question here. You can use a budget scanner with Torque Pro app and knowledge of a correct PID for your vehicle to measure ATF temperature. Details in this video: th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html
@@profsg thank you profe. I will watch the video. I ended up getting the fox one and it was very helpful when I changed the transmission fluid. Thank you for following up!
I have questions on torque and part numbers. You have part #s for washer and O rings on RX 350. What would be the part #s for a 2021 Rav4 XLE be? Under Remove Filler Cap you have #6 for overflow tube @ 36 Ft-lbs., #9 filler cap 36 ft-lbs. and #12 for the drain plug @ 7 ft-lbs. What would be the torque for 2021 Rav4 XLE? Thanks!
On Toyota/Lexus vehicles, the ATF fill cap is generally the same 24mm and, if that's the case on yours, the torque should be the same 36 lb-ft.
As for torques for overflow tube and drain, here is a related post:
www.rav4world.com/threads/did-a-transmission-drain-and-fill.305457/
As for part numbers, double check but here is what I found:
1) Washer for the 24mm filler cap should be the same: #90430-A0003, amzn.to/4ebsQaR
2) For the overflow/drain plug, I believe you only have one drain washer (crush washer not rubber gasket): 90430-18008, amzn.to/3X6mYd5
Again, they should fit but please double check.
@@profsg I finally got around to addressing the fluids on my 2021 Rav4 XLE Gas. Here are the PNs 1) For the fill and drain plugs on the transmission the PN is 90430-A0003, which are flat washers. The cost at the dealer was $2.04 each and you need 2. 2) There is no O ring for the overflow tube. 3) For the fill and drain plugs on both the Transfer Case and Differential all 4 are crush washers and PN is 12157-10010. The cost at the dealer is $1.98 each, you need 4.
Thanks for the excellent explanation it help me a lot. And can you tell me what is the brand of the scat. 👍
Sure! The scanner used in the video is XTool D7:
ebay.us/vDwoU4
This has more features (e.g. bi-directional controls) than what's needed to measure the transmission temperature. The price is good given those advanced features. But if your primary use is about the tranny temperature, there are other less expensive options.
@@profsg thanks 🙏
Hello, I have a 2016 nx200t. I live in the Austin, TX area. I'm not sure where you are located however do you have any contacts/shops in this area that would know the proper procedure that I could trust to perform if I'm not able to myself? Thank you.
Thanks for the inquiry! I don't have affiliated shops but you can use one of the following options:
1) Lexus dealership: Find a trusted Toyota or Lexus dealership to perform the replacement. Lexus has a great presence in your area (with its US headquarter in TX) and they have a standard procedure for this WS fluid replacement. Some dealerships may tell you don't need it but it's required for a towing vehicle. Find a dealership that is supportive of this replacement even if it's not used for towing.
2) Christian Brothers Automotive: I have used them in PA for state inspections (which I couldn't do it myself) and they are very transparent about services they perform, e.g. with visual reports. If you use them, ask them about whether their technicians are familiar with this Toyota/Lexus procedure and ask them to use the Toyota WS fluid.
If you do it yourself, the key is to set the fluid level within the correct temperature range. I have another video about measuring ATF with a budget OBD2 scanner: th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps.
I actually had checked with one Lexus dealership here and they would not do a drain/fill, only a flush for $450. I will check with another one here in town and see what they say. I will also check with CB Automotive as you advised. Thank you for responding - I appreciate it! @@profsg
My mechanic, used a simple approach. He measured the volume that was drained and then filled up the same measure. This is for my rx350. It has run for a year now. The question to the Professor is why go the extra length with temperature measurement?
Sure. This is a frequently asked question and I'm happy to answer it again. :) First, what I did in the video is the standard service procedure for Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Second, I have two reasons against the volume-match approach your mechanic followed: 1) The premise of the volume-matched approach is that the existing/old fluid in the transmission was at the correct level. While no one would doubt a correct factory fill, chances are over the years the fluid might have been touched or lost/reduced due to leaking, fluid degradation, etc. You won't get to the correct level by matching an already incorrect old fluid level. 2) The volume of fluid varies at different temperature levels so you will have to measure both (old vs. new) at the same temperature. Especially for a vehicle with a lot of miles/services, I wouldn't trust the existing fluid level is correct. Hope this clarifies.
Dear Garage Professor, Thanks for the detailed demonstration and explanation and a very well organized video. At 1:24, you mentioned removing the passenger side wheel. Did you actually mean the driver side wheel?
Great catch! I didn’t realize I misspoke in the video but you are correct that it should be the driver side wheel that you take off. On some models, it’s also possible to keep the wheel on by turning/steering it sideways to access the transmission filler cap, and feed a flex funnel above from under the hood (near the brake fluid master cylinder I believe). I haven’t tried this though.
Great video😁😁👍👍👍
Thank you!
NEW video for those of you interested in using a BUDGET ($30) scanner to meausre ATF temperature:
th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html
Links to OBD2 scanners:
0. $25 OBD2 Interface (if you can find the PID for ATF on your car): amzn.to/4aemZPi
1. LAUNCH Creader Elite 205 ($140): amzn.to/3PqcZKT
2. Launch CRP129E ($200): amzn.to/3Tk0QbL
3. XTool D7 ($325): amzn.to/3wUAHZk
* Disclosure: As an eBay Partner and Amazon Affiliate, I may be compensated if you make a purchase from the product links.
what happens if i open check plug before it reach that recommended temp?will i be overfilled or underfilled?
Most likely you overfilled the transmission. The same fluid at a lower temperature will expand when it gets hot. You can do another fluid check, i.e. to drain more at the correct/higher temperature.
You don't need to measure the temperature... As long as the transmission fluid is not leaking... You can measure what you drained out and replace the exact same amount.
Yes if the fluid condition is okay, no leak, no one ever touched it since factory or fluid replacement was done correctly the last time. And measure both old and new fluid at the same temperature (cold).
What I meant to say is there is a chance your current fluid level might be incorrect and you are taking a risk using the volume-match method.
I have a 70k miles 2017 RX350 certified at 60k by Lexus. The Lexus mechanic claims we should never change or even inspect the fluid since they are sealed transmissions with "world standard fluid". What do you think? Can you help Professor?
That statement of the mechanic is partially true. I have another video on this question: th-cam.com/video/X7iQ8hWcB_w/w-d-xo.html
Yes, it is WS (world standard) fluid and Lexus doesn't include fluid replacement on the service schedule under normal driving conditions. HOWEVER, this is not really sealed and life-time. For one, Lexus DOES recommend fluid replacement at 60,000 miles under severe driving conditions, e.g. towing. I discuss these and more in the linked video above.
I’d be very skeptical of that. Jaguar marketed “sealed for life” on the 04-09 models and by the time ZF (manufacturer) stepped in and refuted that lie, people were way past the manufacturer’s service interval.
How about if i bought an ES350 with 120k miles and the car has no history of a transmission fluid change. Can i do a drain and fill at that mileage?
It's getting a bit risky beyond 120k miles, but it really depends on previous driving conditions. What year was the ES350? If it's relatively new with a lot of highway miles without towing (unlikely for an ES ;), then it's relatively safe for a drain-and-fill. But again there is always a risk and I analyze the question in the video here: th-cam.com/video/X7iQ8hWcB_w/w-d-xo.html
How are you? I wondered if it is also applicable to Toyota. I have 2011 camry now with 125,600 miles and highlander 2014 with 105,000 and no tow hitch on both of them and both have no dipstick trans fluid. So far they are running well. I bought them 2nd hand with both at little over 30000 miles for Camry and 42500 miles for Highlander. So I do not think the previous owners changed trans fluid. If it is applicable to Toyota, given these 2 cars' mileages, Can I proceed to do transm fluid change, even they both are driven fine? Chanpho
Yes, it is similar on Toyotas. I also had a 2011 Camry and sold it a few years ago at 70,000 miles or so. Before that, I replaced the sealed transmission fluid at around 60,000 miles. It was a great vehicle! The procedure is the same except it's a different drive bit (hex) to take out the drain plug/tube.
With a Toyota vehicle over 100k miles that has never towed, I personally would change the fluid, drain and fill. It is behind schedule but I don't think it's too late for the following reason:
According to my Lexus (maintenance) manual/schedule--and you can check your Toyota schedule but it's probably similar--the recommended first transmission fluid change is at 60,000 miles if the vehicle has TOWED. So for a vehicle that hasn't put extra loads on the transmission, it should be able to endure a longer interval before its first transmission replacement.
This is a subject of debate and it's only my personal take. I'd drain and fill now, and then follow the 30k mile interval going forward. Best luck!
👍👍
Thanks for the feedback!
Is it the same with RX450H 2017 CVT gear ?
It uses the same Toyota WS fluid but the procedure is different (easier drain and fill without having to monitor the ATF temperature).
Hey man, great video !
My 2006 lexus is250 is at 114,000 miles and I'm not sure if the transmission fluid was ever changed.
Do you recommend changing it now ?
I don't feep like it's showing any problems or anything.
Thanks for the feedback!
On whether to replace the fluid on your 114k mile transmission, it's a matter of debate but here is my take--
If it hasn't been used for towing, I would start to replace the transmission fluid. Drain and fill, and see how it responds. If it continues to run smoothly, follow the recommended interval (30k miles) for future drain-and-fills.
According to my Rx350 manual, the official Lexus recommendation is to replace the fluid at 60,000 miles for TOWING a trailer. You can see that in this video: th-cam.com/video/mx-fRPakHtI/w-d-xo.html
Without towing, it's reasonable to assume the fluid is good for a higher mileage. So I think it's a bit behind schedule but not too late to replace the fluid at 114k.
Keep us posted.
@@profsg hey man, thanks a lot for your reply. I'll start making preparations for drain and fill.
Without a Garage, its pretty hard to do this yourself because of the regulations here in Germany. I'm planning to prepare everything and rent a garage for a few hours to do it.
I'm new to automotive stuff, researched a lot for the last two months, bled the brake fluid, changed the thermostat, changed engine oil+filter and flushed the radiator in the last month right after my purchase of the lexus, but somehow the transmission drain and fill sound the most risky as I have anxiety if i fill it the wrong amount or if its already too less fluid and im not sure how to identify it.
I'll watch your other video as well, and hope its okay to ask you more questions in the future 😅
Glad to be helpful and hear about what you've accomplished! Two tips here--
1) Make sure you have a good level ground and support for the raised vehicle. Be safe!
2) And always remove the fill plug first before draining the fluid. For many Toyota/Lexus models, it's a 24mm cap so you likely need a longer breaker bar with an extension. For example, a 3/8-inch drive ratchet is often good enough for oil change but a 1/2-inch drive is ideal for the 24mm fill plug removal here.
Best luck!
@@profsg thanks for the tips ! :)
If the trans fluid is underfilled would I be able to tell from the temp? I ask bc I'm wondering if mine came undefilled from the factory.
While I doubt you have underfilled ATF from factory, there is a possibility that someone servicing your car might have mistakenly drain your ATF. Yes, ATF operating temperature can potentially go high if the fluid is underfilled. However, the standard procedure for checking ATF level is to remove the tube plug at the specified temperature and see if there is fluid trickling out. If there is no fluid overflowing, you have an underfill and should add fluid right there.
If your vehicle is a SUV like RX350, you don't have to raise it as there is enough clearance underneath the car on the ground to reach the transmission tube/drain plug. Good luck!
@@profsg thank you
感謝教授分享，剛好我有需要。
不客氣！
Can't I just measure how much fluid I take out and replace with that amount? Thanks!
This is a "classic" shortcut. :) However, I don't recommend doing so for the following reasons:
1) This method assumes a correct amount/level of existing fluid in your transmission. While it's safe to assume they did it correctly in the factory, there is always a risk someone may have touched the transmission and set it at an incorrect level.
2) Even if the above is correct, you will have to measure the amount accurately under the same temperature.
Modern transmissions are sensitive to the fluid level so make sure you set the level correctly. Also, there is a budget-friendly OBD2 option ($30 or so) to measure the temperature accurately, check out this video: th-cam.com/video/ytdcZ1X8EeQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the reply!
Why do they sell filters then if you’re not supposed to replace them?
Good question! The ATF filters are for two scenarios--
1) For those (me included in the past) who believed that any filter should be replaced as a regular maintenance item. For latest Toyota filter/strainers, as I realized, the replacement interval could be as long as 200 or 300k miles (or even longer hypothetically).
2) And for those who have transmission problems when filter replacement is naturally part of the job.
@@profsg why would changing the filter cause issues? If anything would cause issues, I would think not replacing it would…transmissions operate on hydraulic pressure…if the filter is clogged, it restricts flow and the clutch material is trapped anyway, so it’s not the same as having material in the fluid - what am I missing?
@@js6752 Replacing the transmission filter itself, if done right with the right parts, won't cause any issues and is in fact beneficial. The problem is replacing it with a much inferior after-market filter. And even worse, after taking off the pan, replace it with an after-market gasket and perhaps strip a couple of pan bolts there. The transmission will leak and after-market filtration is not ideal! Don't ask me how I know it but you can watch this video: th-cam.com/video/mx-fRPakHtI/w-d-xo.html
If you really want to replace it, do it with ALL genuine/OE parts. Otherwise, if you replace ATF regularly, your Toyota filter (probably a strainer) won't get clogged.
And one more thing if you do want to remove the pan to replace the filter inside. Use penetrating oil on the pan bolts (be generous there) and be very patient (preferably overnight with multiple applications of penetrating oil) before taking them out. I was very gentle on them yet still managed to strip two of them. It was a PAIN to drill them out! This was on my Camry years ago.
And after going through all the trouble, hopefully, you will come to the same conclusion the replacement is unnecessary--not because of the trouble but because of the perfect condition of the filter inside! 😅
How do you know if its bad mine is also sealed no dipstick or anything is250 2007 rwd
You will know it if it's difficult to engage or shift gear. I guess your IS250 is over 150k miles and it's a bit late to replace transmission fluid now. Definitely no flushing it at this point. Fill and drain is what I'd do, though some mechanics may advice against it.
How mutch up and down play on inner cv axle does ur car have ?
It should be minimal play, if any. If it's more and/or you experience clicking/popping noise when driving/turning, you may have a worn/damaged axle/joint.
Im having a rotational huming noise only at 45 mph exactly at 45 after that is no noise and my lexus has a litle inner cv axle play no clicking or popping noise at turning thats why i was asking how mutch is normal
@@musicacristiana9795 Does it sound from the wheel bearing or tire? Is there play at the wheel? In the context of this video, do you suspect it's from the transmission/transaxle here? Does it have the same noise in different gears at 45 mph?
Sounds like a bad wheel bearing but no play at the wheel and only makes it at 45 mph exactly at that speed at 46 mph no more nose , i have put the car in neutral at 45 mph to see if it quiets down and still can be heard the sound , the cv axle has a lil play up n down not sure if that has something to do
I think if you’re only doing a drain and fill like this - the 30k mile interval makes sense since you’re only replacing about 30% of the fluid.
On the other hand, if you go to the dealer, they replace the entire 12 quarts and 30k would be excessive if not detrimental.
I just had my 2013 done at 90k miles for the first time
Yes, that makes sense! For dealers or shops with the machine, it's easier for them to hook it up and do the flush. But it's always better/safer with a drain-and-fill. Good you did it at 90k!
That's great but this method only replaces about 3 quarts the transmission holds 10 or more.
Thanks! The full capacity is a bit over 7 quarts, but you are right, this doesn't replace all the fluid. And so is a regular engine oil change. The idea is not necessarily to replace all fluid but to renew it with fresh fluid. If you do this regularly, every 30,000 miles, this will be sufficient to keep the transmission running smoothly. I have another video discussing the interval of doing this and the benefit of only drain and fill. Will add a link below.
This video doesn't address your question directly but may shed some light: th-cam.com/video/X7iQ8hWcB_w/w-d-xo.html
Do you drain and fill 2 to 3 times?
No, I didn't. It's good enough to do it once every 30,000 miles. You could do this multiple times if you like to replace more fluid out, but only do so if you have done it regularly since the vehicle was on lower mileage. On a high mileage vehicle where this service hasn't been done before, do it once and see how it goes. Hope this makes sense.
You may check out this video: th-cam.com/video/WFQJfbzUvdw/w-d-xo.html
Lexus dealership service manager tells me different. He says lifetime for the transmission fluid 😮
You may ask them if that means lifetime warranty of the transmission or what exactly "lifetime" means. Here is my take: th-cam.com/video/X7iQ8hWcB_w/w-d-xo.html
Hello sir, we would like to invite you to test our scanner, how to contact you
You can find our email address on the the channel about page or at keensee.com/page.html#about
I f’ed up… I do Uber.. my 2018 Camry has 152k right now… never did a transmission fluid change… last week I notice a few times my car doesn’t gear down to first gear
Sorry to hear about that! Unfortunately, it might be too late to perform a transmission fluid change now with 152k demanding miles on it. If you consider taking the risk to do a drain and fill to potentially extend its life, I'd recommend a transmission oil analysis to better understand the fluid condition and make an informed decision.
The torque is measured in Pound-Feet, not foot-pounds.
Yes, in the written form. I'm used to foot pounds. ;-)
@@profsg Alright. Keep saying it wrong. 🤷🏻♂️
Wax on wax off
Thanks for stopping by!