There are some self locking nylon nuts which are meant to be used only ONCE. The nylon locking function works on first tightening only. So everytime you unscrew these nuts you should have a brand new replacement. Otherwise you never know when the nylon securing insert is going to fail. Another important thing is to clean parts not only inside but also outside. Because if not, you are going to introduce small amount of dirt into your bearings. There could be mud, sand, old grease, steel shaves. You don't want anything to scratch the bearings. All in all a good and clear explanation. It is always better to do maintenance job by yourself, because you know what you have. And of course it's much cheaper than having done the same thing by dealership. Greetings.
Loctite will do the trick, buying new nuts each time isn't really ideal, these never come loose, too much dirt and rust going on down there for that! Thanks for input.
Thanks for this video, I've been putting off doing mine as was worried it might be hard to get back together. I actually did have trouble getting the last dog bone back on despite jacking the swing arm as you showed. After some trial and error I found lifting the linkage itself with the trolley jack lined up the bolts (with the bike back on the ground). Anyway, thanks, I'll not neglect it as long now I know how to do it!
В начале чистим все наружные поверхности, потом уже вынимаем втулки! Загнал зубной щеткой песчинки в подшипники, так нельзя. Для чистки можно использовать сольвент, смазка консистентная, я лично велосипедную заправляю.
I also sold my NC750X ( 2020 ), but if they improve ( better func. + at least 15cm travel ) the shocks - Front and rear + install the CC, I'll immediately buy it again. The storage space, the lowest center of gravity, the stability, the rideability, the reliability.... of this bike, are not easy to match. Hondas' marketeers still don't get that it is their BEST MC concept for so many, and THIS is the bike they should pay 99% of their attention to.....
well worth doing, this kind of maintenance often gets left out even if you send your motorcycle back to the main dealer, if you do it your self you know its been done, if your riding through winters this is a must.
Hej Nick, have you made any videos about greasing the "rear brake pedal" joints on NC750x? I can't seem to find any such video on TH-cam, other channels included. //Thank you for the video on Air-Filter change. It worked like a charm. Greetings from Slovenia.
I neglected this on my NC700SA and the needle bearings seized and got worn thru. Needed the whole assembly replaced, though I managed to get the bearings as parts so I have a spare assembly now. Thanks for the reminder to re-grease.
After taking mine to bits I found one of my bearings knackered and the pin worn into the linkage casting. Did you manage to change the bearings or is it easier to just get a new assembly?
@@moneyprofessionalI sawed out the old bearings ok. Lots of round filing to get the assembly surface smooth. Just be careful not to press in the new bearings too far. I used a piece of wood and a lump hammer. The centre bearings should protrude a few mm, do not force them in flush or they will not turn freely. Take a photo of the old setup before taking out the old bearings
My 1995 Daytona has five grease nipples on the rear linkage to avoid this procedure. I doubt there is a modern bike left with them now. These bearings are often ignored, I’m sure a fresh bit of grease is just what they need every now and then especially as you are a winter rider. Personally I’d skip the WD40 step but as you say, it’s your personal preference.
Thank you. That was very clear and well done and it's nice to see you using a torque wrench. My shock absorber is looking pretty rusty already, whereas yours still looks nice and black. Is it a lot more work to remove the shock absorber so it can be cleaned up and given a new coat of paint? I only just bought my NC750XD-E and though it's a 2015 model it's already done over 62000 miles, so you can imagine the state of the brake calipers, especially the pistons, which I am changing for stainless steel ones. I'll have to have a look at the suspension linkage tomorrow now you've shown me how easy it is. Well, once I manage to get the brake fluid changed and any air removed! All good fun!
Hi Steven, removing the shock is one extra bolt and the shock is off! Thanks for the nice comment and appreciate you watching :) Good luck with your NC
Looked a job even I could manage. With all the road crud that gets thrown up in that area you can see how they could seize up and fail if not maintained. Nicely filmed 👍
Thanks for showing us, terrific confidence inspiring! A few parts of your bike showed lack of ACF50, how can you not live without the stuff? My older bike looks younger!!! lol
@@nicksepisode Sorry, as you say, the salt has made it look aged before its time and surprised the ACF has protected better! Perhaps you'll put out a vid one day ' how to brighten the dog bones' lol
I mean it's an area that sees a lot of action. That's why doing this regularly will help. I do have an anti corrosion video somewhere on this channel. I'll be honest this nc750x model was very easy to rust.
As per, excellent video. 👏 Glad I did this. 2018 and needle bearings and pins rusty on one side. Gritty movement on one of them. Have cleaned up as best can. Take it I need to replace them?
great video! Question: I don not have a center stand. I tried it rear swing arm lifter on the swing-arm, but it does not work. I can't pull out the bone after loosening the screws. Any idea how to do it without center stand?
with an assistant, get a car jack and wood, place under frame in middle, dont matter if its on the engine as you wont be lifting it high, just enough to take weight off, make sure you have an assistant tho keeping it sturdy while working on the bike
Hi m8 i have some knocking pn my Honda nc700d every time when is monuted on central stand only happend once when bike is lowered on the ground. After that nothing? Any advice
at last, someone who know's how to put a video together and do a proper job, have you got one on brake pad replacement front and rear, plus greasing the slider pins.
just a question does you shock absorber leak oil my shock seems to be weeping slowly. I know this is silly but i was told the will leak a tiny bit of oily normally
the shock shouldn't leak at all, your seal is failing by the sound of it, jump on the seat and check that the rebound is not excessive (eg. bounces and feels springy)
Through no fault of Nick, I couldn't get my linkage bolts undone, despite having breaker bars etc. Reckon you need a bike lift and maybe remove the muffler. Anyone else had similar problems?
An excellent and informative video, very well filmed and presented. Thank you so much!
Thanks for your great feedback
Thanks for sharing, nicely explained. looks like this easy step maintenance procedure will ensure long lasting rear suspension life. Greetings!
I'm honoured
Good video for multiple maintenance or replacement tasks.
Thank you
There are some self locking nylon nuts which are meant to be used only ONCE. The nylon locking function works on first tightening only. So everytime you unscrew these nuts you should have a brand new replacement. Otherwise you never know when the nylon securing insert is going to fail.
Another important thing is to clean parts not only inside but also outside. Because if not, you are going to introduce small amount of dirt into your bearings. There could be mud, sand, old grease, steel shaves. You don't want anything to scratch the bearings.
All in all a good and clear explanation. It is always better to do maintenance job by yourself, because you know what you have. And of course it's much cheaper than having done the same thing by dealership.
Greetings.
Loctite will do the trick, buying new nuts each time isn't really ideal, these never come loose, too much dirt and rust going on down there for that! Thanks for input.
Ive always re,used nylon lock nuts and im yet to see a bolt come lose.
excellent videos, always very well explained, many thanks.
You’re welcome Jeff
Thanks for this video, I've been putting off doing mine as was worried it might be hard to get back together. I actually did have trouble getting the last dog bone back on despite jacking the swing arm as you showed. After some trial and error I found lifting the linkage itself with the trolley jack lined up the bolts (with the bike back on the ground). Anyway, thanks, I'll not neglect it as long now I know how to do it!
you are welcome
В начале чистим все наружные поверхности, потом уже вынимаем втулки! Загнал зубной щеткой песчинки в подшипники, так нельзя. Для чистки можно использовать сольвент, смазка консистентная, я лично велосипедную заправляю.
I also sold my NC750X ( 2020 ), but if they improve ( better func. + at least 15cm travel ) the shocks - Front and rear + install the CC, I'll immediately buy it again. The storage space, the lowest center of gravity, the stability, the rideability, the reliability.... of this bike, are not easy to match. Hondas' marketeers still don't get that it is their BEST MC concept for so many, and THIS is the bike they should pay 99% of their attention to.....
agreed!
Great job in both video shooting and content. Many forget to do this vital part of maintenance.
Thank you Ron
I a job a haven't thought of doing thanks. Haven't had a close look but I think the set up on my CB650 maybe different.
Yes it's often over looked, simple ten minutes job can prevent a problem later on. Thanks for watching
well worth doing, this kind of maintenance often gets left out even if you send your motorcycle back to the main dealer, if you do it your self you know its been done, if your riding through winters this is a must.
yup, and gone are the days were they used to install grease nipples in these areas!
Hej Nick, have you made any videos about greasing the "rear brake pedal" joints on NC750x?
I can't seem to find any such video on TH-cam, other channels included.
//Thank you for the video on Air-Filter change. It worked like a charm. Greetings from Slovenia.
Hi bud. Use spray grease on the brake pedal pivot. I have a video on brake maintenance check out winter prep video
Another good instructional video, Nick. I'll, probably, be replaying this in the spring when I have a go myself.
Thanks Geoff
Brilliant & clear demo of to do this job 5 stars for sure .
Thanks Roland
I neglected this on my NC700SA and the needle bearings seized and got worn thru. Needed the whole assembly replaced, though I managed to get the bearings as parts so I have a spare assembly now. Thanks for the reminder to re-grease.
After taking mine to bits I found one of my bearings knackered and the pin worn into the linkage casting. Did you manage to change the bearings or is it easier to just get a new assembly?
@@moneyprofessionalI sawed out the old bearings ok. Lots of round filing to get the assembly surface smooth. Just be careful not to press in the new bearings too far. I used a piece of wood and a lump hammer. The centre bearings should protrude a few mm, do not force them in flush or they will not turn freely. Take a photo of the old setup before taking out the old bearings
My 1995 Daytona has five grease nipples on the rear linkage to avoid this procedure. I doubt there is a modern bike left with them now. These bearings are often ignored, I’m sure a fresh bit of grease is just what they need every now and then especially as you are a winter rider. Personally I’d skip the WD40 step but as you say, it’s your personal preference.
They don't build stuff like they used to, grease nipple here would be ideal !
Thanks, will have a go tomorrow!
Fantastic
Very good video👍 I will also do this maintenance on my NC this season. Thanks for the information✌
Glad I could help 😀
What about servicing the needle bearing in the lower shock mount? You had all the parts removed to get to that.
That's what I've done in the video
Good video Nick,I'll do my linkage now thanks..
Nice one Mick, thanks for watching
Thank you. That was very clear and well done and it's nice to see you using a torque wrench. My shock absorber is looking pretty rusty already, whereas yours still looks nice and black. Is it a lot more work to remove the shock absorber so it can be cleaned up and given a new coat of paint?
I only just bought my NC750XD-E and though it's a 2015 model it's already done over 62000 miles, so you can imagine the state of the brake calipers, especially the pistons, which I am changing for stainless steel ones. I'll have to have a look at the suspension linkage tomorrow now you've shown me how easy it is. Well, once I manage to get the brake fluid changed and any air removed! All good fun!
Hi Steven, removing the shock is one extra bolt and the shock is off! Thanks for the nice comment and appreciate you watching :) Good luck with your NC
Looked a job even I could manage. With all the road crud that gets thrown up in that area you can see how they could seize up and fail if not maintained.
Nicely filmed 👍
Thanks 😊
What a great video, thanks for sharing.
My pleasure
Nice job Nick. Well explained thank you
Thanks 😊
Great video...as usual! Can you use brake cleaner instead of WD40? Or will that harm the bearings?
Yes, you can
Thanks for showing us, terrific confidence inspiring! A few parts of your bike showed lack of ACF50, how can you not live without the stuff? My older bike looks younger!!! lol
Definitely not lack of acf50. Use it all the time. It's the UK salt roads we have to tackle
@@nicksepisode Sorry, as you say, the salt has made it look aged before its time and surprised the ACF has protected better!
Perhaps you'll put out a vid one day ' how to brighten the dog bones' lol
I mean it's an area that sees a lot of action. That's why doing this regularly will help. I do have an anti corrosion video somewhere on this channel. I'll be honest this nc750x model was very easy to rust.
As per, excellent video. 👏 Glad I did this. 2018 and needle bearings and pins rusty on one side. Gritty movement on one of them. Have cleaned up as best can. Take it I need to replace them?
Check them in another 1k miles
@@nicksepisode Cheers, your combination of bikes, rideouts and how-to's is great 👍
great video! Question: I don not have a center stand. I tried it rear swing arm lifter on the swing-arm, but it does not work. I can't pull out the bone after loosening the screws. Any idea how to do it without center stand?
with an assistant, get a car jack and wood, place under frame in middle, dont matter if its on the engine as you wont be lifting it high, just enough to take weight off, make sure you have an assistant tho keeping it sturdy while working on the bike
Good job Nick, god I be tempted to paint those parts .
Good thinking
Excellent job thank you Nick 👍👍👍.
You're welcome
Lovely job 🙆
Hi Nick another good informative video.
Have you ever thought about changing the dog bones to lower the bike slightly? as it is a fairly tall machine.
Yes its quite common on this model, you'd have to consider shortening the side stand too.
thanks for sharing . i like it.
What are the symtoms of bad sunspension links ?
Pogo stick feeling. Vague feel mid corners. Noise when bouncing on the vehicle while stationary. Abnormal rear tyre wear.
Hi nick good video can I ask you do you know if they do lowering links for this bike I could do with a inch or so thanks in advance.
Yes you can buy them and fitting them is very easy and this video can be used for reference to that. Thanks for watching
Hi m8 i have some knocking pn my Honda nc700d every time when is monuted on central stand only happend once when bike is lowered on the ground. After that nothing? Any advice
Lower shock, Bush worn, maybe ? Swing arm bush? Put it on the centre stan, lean over the rear seat, and pull up. There should be no movement
@@nicksepisode I have small play up i didnt notice it before now i know
Excellent...
at last, someone who know's how to put a video together and do a proper job, have you got one on brake pad replacement front and rear, plus greasing the slider pins.
Cheers ! Check out my spring prep video, it's covered in that one, thanks
HI5 buddy, cool and nice video!
Thank you 😊
The trouble comes when you have to change the needle bearings. Mine are seized and have fallen to pieces but still won't come out.😢
Yeah I guess that's why this job is vital
Another useful maintenance video. Thanks Nick. (Maintainece? 😉)
When spell check can't even help 😅
just a question does you shock absorber leak oil my shock seems to be weeping slowly. I know this is silly but i was told the will leak a tiny bit of oily normally
the shock shouldn't leak at all, your seal is failing by the sound of it, jump on the seat and check that the rebound is not excessive (eg. bounces and feels springy)
@@nicksepisode it leaks as when I push it down i see a yellow oil. It only happened recently after arear tyre change doubt the shop did it tho
@@laughingdog1125 how many miles/km has it covered ?
@@nicksepisode Its a 14 plate bike that had only 3k miles on it when purchased. It now has 11500miles
@@laughingdog1125 sounds like you've had premature shock oil seal failure, take it to your local mechanic to get it checked
I've done 50,000 miles on my bike I never done this didn't even think it needed doing
get it done! lol
@@nicksepisode I will do I have 2 NC's so will do them next weekend I think
@@NC750X please update us
Что за смазку используешь?
bearing grease
Through no fault of Nick, I couldn't get my linkage bolts undone, despite having breaker bars etc. Reckon you need a bike lift and maybe remove the muffler.
Anyone else had similar problems?
Sounds like the previous owner hadn't kept on top of this job. Use a wire brush, plenty of penetrating oil and a painter heat gun on the nut
An important job thats missed on most bikes and quite often isnt even in the service schedule
unforutnaley these days bikes are not build with grease niples down there, so its down to us to take them apart!