Outstanding sir! Thank you for posting this. I've had my '66 W111 250SE Coupe since '92. Learned about the hanging subframe issue a few years after buying the car while replacing the subframe mounts. Most hardware stores sell small sections of rubber mat material, so it wouldn't be hard to use that, and maybe even glue it to the underside of the metal plate, with upholstery glue, and then have a very paint-safe set up.
My 68 280S arrived today and as a technician at a VW dealership put it up on a 2-arm lift after work to inspect it. I lifted under frame rails as well as the rear trailing arm base. To my shock, I wanted to start the car while it was suspended on the lift and the motor had shifted enough to create interference with the fan shroud. I immediately shut down but couldn't figure out how the car was bending lifted. Once back on the ground all was again fine-no interference. Your video explained the movement and stresses on that subframe mount and the remedy. Thanks a bunch1
Glad it helped. Definitely check the subframe mounts. They often get overlooked. Also the engine mounts. If they're changed, what can happen too is the fan can contact the upper shroud. Reason is the transmission mount must be changed too, this will in effect then lower the front back to the correct postion. You're a VW tech? This weekend I have to replace the turbo on the wife's 09 Tiguan. Wastegate issue. Also a leaking water pump. As you know, that's a lot of work.:) 🍻 Cheers John.
Very clever. Definitely will emulate.Also think the smaller disc on top of the four bolts is good comment as suggested. My car is almost in identical state of disassembly. Avid follower of your channel. Stefan Namibia
Yes I agree the suggestion of a plate that rests on the bolt heads would be a good idea too. Thanks for your comments and glad you're enjoying the videos. Cheers John.
An excellent, simple idea. However, if you make the top plate smaller such that it sits directly on top of the four mount screw heads, you avoid any paint damage of the chassis leg.
Thank you. Very true. I thought of doing it that way at first, but I thought access to the lower nut would be a little difficult. But I may well do one to see how it works. Thanks again. Cheers John.
A great idea for those older Mercs!! If I had a metal work precision lathe, & the hex bar, I'd most likely make the bolts. I have the other tools here. Not sure if you have one, but a tap & die set is a good investment. Draper tools make such set which has the drill bits included, so no need to go buying the drill bits to suit the taps.
They are all the same on the 108/109 chassis except for that spacer in the 6.3. Gives more underhood room for the larger engine. You can of course make the support top plate a little smaller so it sits inside on top of the 4 bolt heads. Whichever is the most convenient. Cheers John.
Hi John I’m having a hard time getting those bolts. I even called Fastenal they said they can’t supply it. What do you suggest? Thanks it’s the M12 1.5 metric bolts for the subframe mount supports
Have you tried these guys? belmetric.com/m12x1-5-fine-din-960-961-hex-bolts-8-8/?sku=BFT12X1.5X150PYLW&gclid=CjwKCAjw69moBhBgEiwAUFCx2CiS4e0_vgkhdfWOwzMomBjSv0M84IxQxct_DNiIUoN6KTHpxUbiTxoCl2QQAvD_BwE I bought some all thread and made my own for these support plates. When car is in use, the actual mount bolts need to be at least 8.8. hardness. Let me know if you still have trouble finding them. Cheers John
Outstanding sir! Thank you for posting this. I've had my '66 W111 250SE Coupe since '92. Learned about the hanging subframe issue a few years after buying the car while replacing the subframe mounts. Most hardware stores sell small sections of rubber mat material, so it wouldn't be hard to use that, and maybe even glue it to the underside of the metal plate, with upholstery glue, and then have a very paint-safe set up.
Great idea with the rubber. Glad you liked the video. Cheers John.
My 68 280S arrived today and as a technician at a VW dealership put it up on a 2-arm lift after work to inspect it. I lifted under frame rails as well as the rear trailing arm base. To my shock, I wanted to start the car while it was suspended on the lift and the motor had shifted enough to create interference with the fan shroud. I immediately shut down but couldn't figure out how the car was bending lifted. Once back on the ground all was again fine-no interference. Your video explained the movement and stresses on that subframe mount and the remedy. Thanks a bunch1
Glad it helped. Definitely check the subframe mounts. They often get overlooked. Also the engine mounts. If they're changed, what can happen too is the fan can contact the upper shroud. Reason is the transmission mount must be changed too, this will in effect then lower the front back to the correct postion.
You're a VW tech? This weekend I have to replace the turbo on the wife's 09 Tiguan. Wastegate issue. Also a leaking water pump. As you know, that's a lot of work.:) 🍻 Cheers John.
Very clever. Definitely will emulate.Also think the smaller disc on top of the four bolts is good comment as suggested. My car is almost in identical state of disassembly. Avid follower of your channel. Stefan Namibia
Yes I agree the suggestion of a plate that rests on the bolt heads would be a good idea too. Thanks for your comments and glad you're enjoying the videos. Cheers John.
Great idea. Some of us have bought w108s without knowing the whole history of these cars.
An excellent, simple idea. However, if you make the top plate smaller such that it sits directly on top of the four mount screw heads, you avoid any paint damage of the chassis leg.
Thank you. Very true. I thought of doing it that way at first, but I thought access to the lower nut would be a little difficult. But I may well do one to see how it works. Thanks again. Cheers John.
Great tip for doing the subframe mounts,will use when doing my. 109.3,5 replacements
Afzaal.m.khan
Rawalpindi Pakistan.
A great idea for those older Mercs!! If I had a metal work precision lathe, & the hex bar, I'd most likely make the bolts. I have the other tools here. Not sure if you have one, but a tap & die set is a good investment. Draper tools make such set which has the drill bits included, so no need to go buying the drill bits to suit the taps.
Thanks for the comment Christopher. I have been wanting to buy a good quality tap and die set. I'll take a look at the one you mentioned.
Cheers John.
@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 The set I have is a 37 piece.
Very nice idea i will do it when i buy a w108
Is that spacer the only difference in the 6.3 or or any of the other parts different?
They are all the same on the 108/109 chassis except for that spacer in the 6.3. Gives more underhood room for the larger engine. You can of course make the support top plate a little smaller so it sits inside on top of the 4 bolt heads. Whichever is the most convenient. Cheers John.
@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 thank you
This is such a genius idea! Do you sell these or know someone that might? I’m not as handy as you
Thank you. I don't sell them. I just made up one set. I'm sure you could get some made. Its a pretty simple set up.
All the best Cheers John.
Hi John
I’m having a hard time getting those bolts. I even called Fastenal they said they can’t supply it. What do you suggest? Thanks it’s the M12 1.5 metric bolts for the subframe mount supports
Have you tried these guys? belmetric.com/m12x1-5-fine-din-960-961-hex-bolts-8-8/?sku=BFT12X1.5X150PYLW&gclid=CjwKCAjw69moBhBgEiwAUFCx2CiS4e0_vgkhdfWOwzMomBjSv0M84IxQxct_DNiIUoN6KTHpxUbiTxoCl2QQAvD_BwE
I bought some all thread and made my own for these support plates. When car is in use, the actual mount bolts need to be at least 8.8.
hardness.
Let me know if you still have trouble finding them.
Cheers John