Hey Rob, after seeing your video I was inspired to put together something similar. I probably have the same (or very similar) shades as you ($10 vinyl roller shades from a home improvement store) so I think it is comparable. I was using a different stepper driver library and found that it had excessive delays in the code between step pulses. I eventually gave up on that one and wrote my own with much more reasonable delays. I guessed your window is about 4', with my new library, my shades lift that far in under 1:30. Still not great, but almost twice as fast as your current version. I looked at the library you used and it doesn't seem to be as bad as the first library I used but the delays could still be lowered. I found that a pulse width of 5us and pulse period of 1505us worked pretty well. Your library doesn't allow for non 50% duty cycle so it may not be easy to modify that code. I think the limiting factor on the width is the driver (the datasheet says the minimum is 1.9us, i went with 5 to give some margin) and the limiting factor on the frequency is the motor. So, if you want to try speeding up your DIY solution you could consider tinkering with the delays in the motor driver code. EDIT: With a width of 3 and period of 1203, the time is down to under 1:10 and it still seems to be working correctly.
I got the ikea. Thanks for the review. I just went with the ikea hub and did t have any issues and it now works with Apple HomeKit. Had them for a week and they work like a charm. However for the price I paid I could’ve done all my windows in my house.
The Hook Up thanks for such informative and helpful videos. I was wondering, how would you go about to turn this shades into skylight shades. I’m running the problem that the shades sag. Would love your advice! Thanks!
I’m building a new house and prewired every window for 12v low voltage roller motors, like the Rollerhouse branded ones on Amazon. Much easier to conceal low voltage wires.
@@shawn_yates I'm either going Rollerhouse or building my own with stepper motors and Wifi. Jury's still out on that, I need to do some prototyping. I'd like to be able to make the stepper motors work, if I can figure out how to conceal them entirely inside an off-the-shelf blinds.com roller shade tube.
@@yiannisis I brought mine in from the side, through the 2x4 framing around the window. The wire then runs inside the small cavity between the top of the window itself and the header, then I routered a shallow groove in the window header to bring the wire up about 3 inches where it will exit the drywall. I have to do outside mount shades because my windows are not deep enough to do inside mount.
A dimmer switch like the TGWF500D would be perfect for controlling shades because it is momentary. A video on how to hardware hack a dimmer switch into Home Assistant to control all the blinds in a room would be very cool.
You should also calculate the time as a linear speed, and measure the noise level of each shade. Like how Lutron shows their shades move 3.6"/s and have a 38db rating.
Thanks Rob! I've been deliberating on a roller blind solution for a couple of months now. This video was very informative and covered a good range of options. Also, I got a good giggle with "oh, the ZigBee"! Edit: typo
Same here, but tbh every solution seems to suck. Like realy, 2 min to get your blinders up? Realy, its 2020 lol. Na i will wait untill some one figures this shit out.
Id like to know too. I want to use zigbee... I also figured I should be able to use batteries if it's lightweight but maybe not (down the road I'd like to wire it into the wall but one step at a time) Did you come up with a solution or try anything? If I remember I'll comment again if I get anything decent running.
I found out that you don't need any TRADFRI gateway. Just the "USB range extender" (or whatever they call it), the remote and the shade. Everything is included in the package. And if you have a Zigbee gateway you may be able to control it without any further hardware. (I intend to do that with the Conbee USB stick and ioBroker.)
@@stefanlasser6535 NEWBIE here lol, would the stepper motor need to be a 12v stepper motor instead of the 5 mentioned in the video? looking to speed up the shade a bit and as i posted originally window is a bit larger at 57 5/8 w x 36 h Thanks!
@@zeegrey3447 After flashing the binfile on my esp it opens an ap. After saving my own wifi name and pw it's trying to connect to my wifi and is no longer responsive. The led starts flashing every few seconds and I can't connect to the webpage. Was it the same for you? So I have tried to flash the sourcecode via arduino IDE and this showed me following error message: cannot bind non-const lvalue reference of type 'String&' to an rvalue of type 'String' at webSocket.broadcastTXT("{ \"set\":" + String(set) + ", \"position\":" + String(pos) + " }");
@@RedAura99 yes same thing, after doing your WiFi configuration which leads no where, connect back to your WiFi and look for the esp IP and put its ip in url and you should see the page open up.
Fantastic video Rob! While in lockdown I purchased two Ikea blinds to connect to my existing 76 Deconz device Home Assistant setup. After a few days, one of them dropped from the Zigbee mesh and became non-responsive... After days of repeated button pressing, I gave up and brought an Ikea bridge.... OMG the pain of getting that paired (tip - buy lots of spare CR2032 batteries!). Once finally paired I've just decided to leave the Ikea bridge also connected as a separate Zigbee mesh just for blinds, it integrates to HA and firmware updates are a lot easier. Keep up the good work.
@@TheHookUp Totally agree. I had moved to the single Pi4+Deconz solution from one Hue bridge and three Xiaomi bridges. I'm sure after a few more Deconz updates I'll end up trying it again :)
I cannot get this to work. I successfully flash the NodeMCU and get the initial setup screen but once I save I can ping the node 4 or 5 times and it just becomes unresponsive..even after a resetting.
At this moment I have 32 ZigBee devices (in-wall relays/switches [Sonoff, LUMI], Xiaomi/Honeywheel smoke sensors, PIR sensors [eWeLink, LUMI], Xiaomi light sensors, water sensors [TZ3000], IKEA wall switch, Philips HUE Ensis) in my house for at least one year. The only problem I had was RBPI and SD card(s). After migration to Intel NUC - it's running stable for months without maintenance (apart from home assistance). ZigBee works perfectly in my case/infra :). Greets :)
Great video and exactly what I was looking for! Keep doing shades videos as other home automations are simple in comparison. Would love to see you throw Rollerhouse motors in the review mix. Also, maybe something with the Shelly 2.5 and dumb shades? I can't do solar because the wife doesn't like the look but I was thinking it would be cool to re-wire the Zemismart Solars and just have the battery as a backup. Basically, Motorized UPS Shades. I have like 20 windows that need to be automated so loving this content!
Nice Video once again. I think the DIY will be better if the stepper motor is replaced with a Nema stepper motor and a redesigned 3D enclosure for the Nema stepper motor.
I’ve often thought the same about smart bulbs. Given the choice between flicking the light switch on or off and getting my phone out, opening the app and turning the lights on or off I’ll go with the switch.
@@adityaprasad465 Those are usually hardwired from attic. They usually have solid motors, but they are preicey. The solar powered models are ok, but not as reliable and not discrete.
Great video Rob. While watching it gave me an idea for my holiday lights. I used the shower curtain solution on a window to project a loop, but during the day I have that "frosted" look. With a DiY shade I could automate it like a projector screen that hides away when not in use... I'll add it to the list, not tape for me this year lol
I have replaced the smaller steppers with Nema 17 steppers nodemcu and drivers fit in the mount housing for the stepper runs of 12-36V and can lift 1.5M wide blackout fabric files will come on DYI plattforms once 100% satisfied with working solution costs are a bit higher but for on the wall mounting works so much better
I did cut the fyrtur down the same way you did then It dawned on me... one can actually mount them in front of the window cutout and while that means it will stick out in front of the window cutout the shade itself will line itself against the wall and the draft won't be able to pull it outwards towards the open window.
I love the 4 wire motor from Zemismart. Then you can use whatever module you like. Downside: mains operated. Upside: Use whatever fabric you like, fits most windows, manual control, no cloud. No issues here with z-wave. my qubino module is better than Fibaro and shelly 2.5 (at the time of install).
I'm trying to figure this out for a new build. My main problem is finding the size of blind roller shades to work with the motor. Which blinds did you get and what's the size of the tube and motor?
@@MyFortressConstruction The hardest part for me was finding the tube that fits the motor. I could only find one place in the UK that sold it. As for the blind, anything will do as you will transfer the fabric onto the new tube. Hope this makes sense.
@@djashjones Ah, so you completely retrofitted it yourself. I didn't want to mess with gluing fabric onto 20 separate window shades... I was hoping to find a shade/roller already on a tube that would work with the motor so it was a simple swap, but no one states what kind of roller tube they have for their fabric. Seems like a prefabbed rechargeable unit that I can simply plug into a wall outlet is the way to go...
@@MyFortressConstruction no glue involved. Just peeled it the old one and re-stuck it on the new one. I think they use some sort of strong sticky tape. I like the mains powered version because I can have manual switches to operate the blind if needed. The downside is the cable running down the wall but it's worth it.
@@djashjones I'm building a new home so I plan to have an outlet next to each window so it can be covered with a valance. So you just got an aluminium tube from a local curtain shop, got some brackets, and then plugged the motor into it? It already had doublesided sticky tape on it I'm assuming?
I use the IKEA blinds. Smartthings has a built in device handlers that works perfectly with it even the battery all you need to do is change the device handlers from ZigBee window shade to ZigBee window shade battery, than everything will work. No need for any of the custom handlers. In HA I use ZHA the blind works including the up and down arrow and the position updates if the blind is change manually too.
Ok. So the DIY solution REALLY appeals to me. Almost everything in my HA setup now is DIY. You mentioned with 433 rf being 1 say. Have you looked in to stuff like MySensors? That's what most of my stuff uses. It uses the nrf24l01 2.4g RF modules. Can send and receive nicely and does a great job reporting state. I am currently setup using the MySensors MQTT gateway, so anything that can send / receive MQTT can talk to my MySensors nodes. Some of the nodes (if on always on power like AC outlets ect) can act as repeaters extending the range. I would REALLY like to see/hear your thoughts on something like MySensors.
I always get a kick out of situations like the 5 foot power cord for a motorized shade (in my case my window is in a tall gable wall about 14 feet from the floor) Ie) we adopted a kitten and ordered cheap security cameras so we can watch her. Weplanned on mounting the cameras on top of the cabinets and 1 in the bedroom up high. Good thing the manufacterer ships it with 3' power cords!
This is what I immediately wondered was if you could add on to the printing process. Make a power housing essentially and wire it in. Fairly easy to hide stuff in the top of a window
I solved this problem with Somfy "dumb" motors (LS40's) controlled with Shelly 2.5's. I have 18 blinds on my network and the system with HA works like a charm. All are hardwired though which I understand is a deal breaker for many. Thanks Rob for recommending Shelly in your previous videos!
I REALLY dislike Somfy's "authorized dealer" model. I know you can pick them up on ebay and amazon from shady resellers, but I hate being forced into that position.
@@TheHookUp Totally agree!! We installed 30 of ST30 SDN RS485 as it was the only option. Ended up having to write the RS485 protocol myself! Not going to even tell you how crazy the price of those are!
Arn't Somfy Motors $200+. Dumb 4 wire motors controlled by Shelly 2.5s would be great for me because I am running power to all windows. However, I don't want to pay the Somfy premium.
Well, I put these motors inside a three-quarter inch pipe. I've been using my design for years. My Wi-Fi motor controller also fits inside the three-quarter inch pipe. Tasmota!!! www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Centric-Diameter/dp/B072R57C56/
@@williambello4089 Have any additional information about your design? Which motor voltage and rpm did you use? Any information on the controller you are using?
@@maxdamage2122 the voltage can be anything from 8 to 30 volts. That is the limitation of the switching voltage regulator. I like to use tasmota firmware. The BlindBird uses a SPDT Dip relay for motor direction, capable of ≤125Vac @ 2Amps. So, the motor drive transistor is a Darlington, capable of ≤30Vdc @ 3Amps. I also included two switch inputs, controlling open and close limit s.
Hi Hon Wah Chee, can you help me? I can't reach module by IP address after connecting it to router (i see module in the connected devices list). Did it work for you?
You should check out the 12v stepper motors diy solution - My experience with the solution is that the motors are strong enough if you have a somewhat smart acceleration/speed control (should be possible to integrate speed control based on posision aswell). Experiences are based on retrofitting the ikea roller shades with 12v 28byj, darlington transistor array, nodemcu and no gearing. I have a strong belief you could make the DIY solution alot more attractive by making a couple of extra modifications ;-)
@@TheHookUp Correct. Can probably send you some documentation for pcb design, fusion design, code and so on. The design is not finalized as its still a work in progress.
@@zenginellc to some extent yes. Ofcourse with some limitations. We had success driving a blind of around 1x1 meter. At the end of the day I gave up because the Ikea solution was so well packaged. If you want to have a look feel free to send me a message and i'll provide the board designs and source code.
Thankyou for this...you do amazing work. I love the humor (@1:39 cracked me up looking for the outlet!, and the comment about ikea instructions). I also love that you not only linked to the DIY solution but went through the work of updating the libraries and providing a bin file for your viewers. You also give a fair and balanced view that I can appreciate of the pros/cons. Do you know offhand how hard it'd be to update the DIY solution with a stronger motor? I'm wondering if a properly chosen Nema 17 or even 23 with a 12volt supply can help with torque, and then maybe using a Wemos D1 mini with a motor shield (I was suprised to find out they had a motor shield for those!). Regardless, I really appreciate the time and work you put into your videos, and the valuable infromation you provide us home automation enthusiasts :)
The code I used would need to be heavily modified to use a different stepper, because the original was written for the ULN2003 driver and a unipolar stepper. The other issue you'd run into with a non-geared stepper is the holding torque when the coils are off is basically zero. By gearing down you give yourself that holding torque that's required to keep the shade in place when the coils are off.
@@TheHookUp OH awesome to know..I really need to ramp up on my knowlege of motors and steppers, my info there is really basic at best. I didn't think about when the coils are off...pretty important scenario :) Thanks! I'll also check out the projects Goog linked...I'm super excited that this is becoming easier to approach!
I'm looking for a cheap direct wire option. My problem is I can't find a decent roller shade that lists what the roller tube diameter is. Has anyone bought the direct wire roller motor and got some decent shades that worked together?
Fantastic video as always, but it kind of left me wondering about another option. Why not DIY with a solar panel, a battery and a stronger motor? Basically giving you a zemismart solar on steroids :) Throw in a light sensor pointing outwards and a motion sensor pointing inwards and you've got the ultimate smart roller shades.
I don't get the problem with Zigbee, is it the protocol or rather this specific device support? Have you tried Zigbee2Mqtt? The only thing complaint I have towards Zigbee as a protocol is an insistence by different manufacturers on using their own hub. Having said that, I am using zigbee2mqtt with over 45 devices in my house and everything works without the fuss, although around 25 of them are also Zigbee routers. I think Zigbee2Mqtt should be integrated into Home Assistant is getting better and better. OK, enough rambling, great video Rob, keep it up. BTW, you have convinced me to get 3D Printer but decided on getting Prusa Mk3 kit.
Basically hit it on the head. Because manufacturers want you to use their own hub they are all using non-standard communication protocols that require device drivers to be understood. Zwave for instance requires that specific device types communicate in specific ways, so they are compatible with any hub. I haven't gotten deep into Zigbee2MQTT yet, but I'm hoping it will solve that issue for me, since I still have a lot of zigbee devices that won't work with Deconz.
@@TheHookUp Oh, OK, then I definitely recommend Zigbee2Mqtt. I'm not sure if you're going to need it but I would also recommend adding an external antenna to the CC2531 router/controller, it greatly improves the signal. The reason I actually went with Zigbee was the smart sockets, the way ESP2866 works and controls the high voltage, it trips my RCD fuse while switching, IKEA sockets don't. Funnily enough, I find Zigbee more reliable than Wi-Fi, especially now, Zigbee2Mqtt is getting better and better. The other thing I love about it is the Xiaomi sensors, they are reliable, with a modern look, small footprint and great price, and they run on battery for 2 years, almost.
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Although more expensive, wouldn’t it be possible to use a Nema stepper motor instead? They are more powerful and the cost is still affordable. I believe that even with Nema motors the DIY solution would be the cheapest. I don’t know about the speed improvement though...
You can set up your HA to remember the last state with the recorder component. You can also use tasmota or ESP home to set up a stepper motor and driver.
Would you be able to use a more substantial 12v roller blind tubular motor with the diy method? Obviously you'd need 12v to it not 5 but would the code work in the same way?
Good evening, is there any option to set static IP on NODE MCU? Every time my router is restarting it changing roller shades IP address and it’s very disappointing 😢
How do your outdoor "DIY Motorized Roller Shades + Wireless MQTT Smart Home Integration" roller blinds that you did in 2018 compare with all these? Are those still going strong or have they puckered out? That stepper motor you used in that project doesn't seem to have the same cons that the cheap ones from this video do but when you didn't mention them at all in this comparison it makes me think they were ultimately a fail and that's why you wouldn't have compared them at all in this video. Did I miss the update on those? LOVE your videos and I can honestly say I wouldn't enjoy this space without you! Thanks!
Outdoor shades are still going strong. The issue with those compared with these is they need to have 3" of clearance to the left of the shade to fit, which isn't an option in this case. The stepper motors are also quite a bit more expensive, which at that point would put the cost of the project close to or above the wired tubular motor from this video.
Hey there! Thank you for this video. So I'm in love with the DIY solution, however the cons seem pretty easy to to overcome by getting a faster, more powerful motor, and I'd be surprised if there isn't tutorials on how to do this already. So do you or anyone else know of other DIY tutorials that have stronger motors? The window I'm wanting to use this on are easily 3 times the width of the window in this video, and I plan on using blackout fabric which will be heavier. Also, it's fairly simple to extend the power cable of the Zemismart Tuya and hide the wire, so I wouldn't consider this a con. Also Rob, I think that something I've noticed in a lot of your videos is that you don't consider renters when making these videos.
Did you ever find a solution? My windows are about 50" wide and I'm also wanting to use blackout versions. Then again, I haven't even found the $10 blinds he referred to from lowes, but at least if I knew there was a heavier duty version of this DIY setup out there I'd feel better proceeding.
teenhype90210 No, unfortunately not. No official response, but I’m sure you can go to a makers forum or someone who knows everything there is to know about small motors like this and ask, I just haven’t put in the time.
Just ordered some NodeMCU boards. Also have a 240V 40A relay and planning to try and set my water heater to run on a schedule. During the summer my power rate fluctuates and going to try and set it up so that I can have the email come in and get data scraped for the power rate and automatically turn off at a certain time when the rate will be high and back on when it drops back down. And yes I have a huge heatsink so the relay should not overheat. Since I have spare boards I may end up doing the blinds as well. Only need it for two windows that I have facing north and since I am in an apartment I am limited on what I can do but would be nice if they would open and close at certain times of the day. I am always short on cash and have extra time so DIY is the way to go though I will probably look at a more powerful motor to swap into the system or set it up so there is a pair of them working together which should increase the speed and weight capacity, which is actually a good option that only requires a little bit of modification to the design and doesn't increase the cost that much. Driving one from each end would be another option that would be pretty simple since a single board should be able to handle two at the same time.
Great job! Amazing code for that WiFi config interface, seems like it could improve your outdoor motorized shades code too. Do you think some power monitoring is able to be performed on the DIY method? I think a small solar panel and tiny lithium charge board could keep a 9V battery well prepared for each day’s use - as long as it’s on the side of the house with good sun, or it’s a long thin panel that can hide.
newbie here...i want to remotely turn on and off a small battery operated motor. I want to use an old bluetooth dslr camera control. the original control connects to the camera and triggers the shutter. Think I can adapt it start and stop a small battery powered motor? thanks
1. I just watched a review of the IKEA blinds from Homekit Authority and he said he only got about 2 months of battery life per blind. 2. He had no advise for how to convert them from battery to wired, but it should be possible, right? 3. We're remodeling and are running new power and networking everywhere. Are there any POE options for blinds?
I have 4 of them and I fully open and close them once a day on a schedule.. Mine tend to last 4-6mo on a charge depending on additional opening and closing during that period of time.
This is definitely a "your milage may vary". Of my three, one of them drains 2x as fast as the other two, which the two mentioned lasting about 3 months on a charge (going up and down once a day)
Spend the money and get custom coverings. Lutron has battery powers shades that will go 3 years on 6 D cell batteries. Or Budget Blinds new Smart Home motors are rechargeable and will last about 12-15 months before a charge is needed. A 36x60 Window will be about $500 but ZERO hassle... I know its expensive but it is the best bet for your application. Also Lutron and Somfy make a 12v power panel that will allow the use of low voltage wire to be run in the wall.
How wide is the "control panel" on the Zemismart motor - the bit that houses the micro usb connector? Knowing the usb port dimensions and judging form that, seems to be around 5mm, but for some reason I can't find any schematics anywhere.
Hey i build your exact set up and was wondering why i cannot access the web interface. It will not load and says it doesn’t exist. I must be doing something wrong but i got this far and would really appreciate any help. Thank you
I love the solar solution you have here. I have 4 windows up high.. 14' what do I need to buy to install and link all 4 window? They are 8' wide and 2' tall windows. Using patio shades. They come 8'x8'. I will be removing fabric to reduce weight. Thanks.
I've been trying, like really hard, for over a year now. Anything that works is too complicated for most users, anything that's easy has garbage battery life.
@@TheHookUp it would be sweet if we could just duplicate with a 3d printer the zemismart solar motor parts and use even like 3 AA batteries to power it. Just watched Paul Hibbert's video on installing and it was slick.
Zemismart Solar - how is the fabric installed on the motor? How is the motor installed on the window? Will the motor work with different width / height fabric? Where do you buy the fabric from? Thanks!
i think the first one you presented the 47$ one or so... if we are comfortable changing wires and splicing etc... seems like the best option? i have a sunroom id like to add this to... and I have a T-Box (junction box) nearby I could connect directly. Is WiFi still the best protocol to connect? I have a few other items that connect to Tuya/SmartLife ive been adding through the years with no issues. seems the link to that one doesnt work anymore and i cant find it on aliexpress
Increased speed would mean decreased torque (with the same size motor). Other motors are certainly available that would be faster and stronger, but at that point you're losing the price advantage of DIY.
Would think there's a happy medium between price and performance. Your diy price is much lower than the others. Increase it by $20 or so for a better motor and you have the best of both
Is the remote in 3:07 the AC114-01B? If so, were you able to connect it to Sonoff Bridge? I bought Sonoff Bridge just to emulate that remote but I cannot teach the bridge to use it...
@@TheHookUp Thanks for answering. I am also using Tasmota but not in the "raw mode" and the remote cannot be sniffed that way. I will look up this "raw mode" you mentioned. Thanks!
Have you found a different motor for the diy solution? Also, it seems like it would be trivial to add a couple of 18650 batteries and a smallish solar panel to power the diy solution.
can't reach DIY solution via web interface. any advice? setup is fine - no AP in wi-fi list and led flashing. I see board as connected device in router list
May already have been said but the motors can be modded for more torque and they are so cheap you can put one at each end , pretty sure the driver is fine with 2 steppers
Yeah, I modded them for a previous project (blinds automation), but this code was written for the ULN2003 driver, not the A4988, so I couldn't do that mod without rewriting the code... maybe later.
@@TheHookUp I was thinking again Rob, it was some time ago I did mine and may be misremembering but I used some code at around that time that had the poles triggered in the wrong order, I don't think it was this but may be worth a check. Thanks for the modded code I will have try of that.
Thanks for the comprehensive yet concise video, super well put together. Do you have any suggestions for roller shades you know work with the zenismart blind with the solar panel you linked to? I see they list 38mm as the compatible tube size but most blind sellers don't seem to list that specification.
Did you end up getting an answer? I am running into the same issue looking for shades for my new house and everyone seems to gloss over where to find actual shades!
Any solutions for vertical blinds? 1 movement to swivel the vertical blinds and a 2nd movement to open close the blinds. Would be good to fit on 1 motor.
You make always a great videos! Pls make a new one with a less cheap (and more power) stepper motor pls! Or at least pls suggest me a better motor to use
Hi there, I have a smart device question and I hope you could help. My end goal is to have a notification on my phone every time my tank (which is filled with water) is almost empty. I'm planning on using a float switch to get that info but my problem is, and that's why you struck a chord by saying 'one way protocol', that I don't know what type of smart device I should be looking for to get that done. For the notification part, I guess tasker will do, I just don't get how I will have that closed or open circuit information transmitted wirelessly. Any tips? If anyone can help please reply. Thanks a lot
There aren't too many products like that on the market these days. There's one on indegogo right now that I am set to receive, but I won't give my recommendation until I see it work.
I have a though... I am not a maker at all but I am a mechanic and enjoy watching this stuff so with that said. Could you not make a gear ratio assembly inside with the motor box to speed it up??
Hey man, cool video. I just build the DIY version, but I am missing a google home integration. Can you tell me how to do this, or just point me in the right direction? :)
Sure, but at what point does the cost of the materials approach the cost of a purpose built product, and as steppers get larger they are harder to conceal.
Even slower i would prefer the DIY version integrations. If you have heavy shades or you need more speed i suggest to change that tiny stepper motor with a bigger one... they reach a really big monster size... but with some dollars more than yours you can get a decent one... take a look to NEMA.
Hi, can you please provide your professional opinion on whether I should install two side-by-side equal width blinds, or one blind for a 82-inch wide kitchen window ? Thanks!
I am trying this now. If I skip the MQTT stuff I can get to the configuration website. If I try to add that in the webpage never loads. Any tips on finding the name of my mqtt server? I have it going in homeassistant but have not used it up until now. Will the alexa thing work without the MQTT?
I have a sonoff RF bridge flashed with tasmota and portisch firmware . Couldn’t get the RF codes for the wireless solar roller shade remote(Remote is 433Mhz) .If you have successfully learnt the RF codes from the remote, can you please share any documentation or instructions ? Thanks!
@@TheHookUp Awesome,works as expected after flashing the new hex file . Was using a old hex file before and hence the issue . Thanks again for the inputs . Great informative videos !
What is needed to drive this at 9v vs 5v? Reading through this and the thingiverse comments about using 9v to drive this stepper to move blinds is needed. Is that just a matter of using a USB power supply that outputs 9v vs 5v or in the example a 9v batter?
thanks for the video I'm doing the diy blind and wonder if you can add ir receiver with remote control option open, close and stop to your code and diagram
When you say "go buy a 3d printer" can you recommend one that is suitable for such a DIY project like window shades? A printer that could be used at home or in the garden?
I have 3 of these setups but they seem to vie or compete with available com ports.... is there something I can to to increase the com port assignment so that each has its own comport?
I tried the tasmota method that he suggested in the Thingiverse remix with the NEMA-17 but I couldn’t get it to work very well. I would be nice if you could make a version of the code to work with it.
Would you update roller shades for 2024?
You should do an update on this with the new blind motors that are out there.
Hey Rob, after seeing your video I was inspired to put together something similar. I probably have the same (or very similar) shades as you ($10 vinyl roller shades from a home improvement store) so I think it is comparable. I was using a different stepper driver library and found that it had excessive delays in the code between step pulses. I eventually gave up on that one and wrote my own with much more reasonable delays. I guessed your window is about 4', with my new library, my shades lift that far in under 1:30. Still not great, but almost twice as fast as your current version.
I looked at the library you used and it doesn't seem to be as bad as the first library I used but the delays could still be lowered. I found that a pulse width of 5us and pulse period of 1505us worked pretty well. Your library doesn't allow for non 50% duty cycle so it may not be easy to modify that code. I think the limiting factor on the width is the driver (the datasheet says the minimum is 1.9us, i went with 5 to give some margin) and the limiting factor on the frequency is the motor.
So, if you want to try speeding up your DIY solution you could consider tinkering with the delays in the motor driver code.
EDIT: With a width of 3 and period of 1203, the time is down to under 1:10 and it still seems to be working correctly.
Hey, this sounds really cool! Is your code available anywhere?
I got the ikea. Thanks for the review. I just went with the ikea hub and did t have any issues and it now works with Apple HomeKit. Had them for a week and they work like a charm. However for the price I paid I could’ve done all my windows in my house.
The fact that you lowered the volume when you said Alexa made me subscribe.
Haha, I aim to please.
I came here to say one thing... "OOOOOOOOOOOOH the zigbee!!!!" Haha, amazing video mate, really informative!! :)
The Legend himself.
I cannot not laugh at this comment!
The Hook Up thanks for such informative and helpful videos. I was wondering, how would you go about to turn this shades into skylight shades. I’m running the problem that the shades sag. Would love your advice! Thanks!
Well hello again Mr Hibbert!
I LOL'd IRL.
I’m building a new house and prewired every window for 12v low voltage roller motors, like the Rollerhouse branded ones on Amazon. Much easier to conceal low voltage wires.
I am also building a new house and prewired my windows. Are you going with the Rollerhouse option or are you going to make your own or something else?
I'd like to hear more about what you're doing?
The wiring should come out from the ceiling, right? I am also checking pre-wiring options for a new house
@@shawn_yates I'm either going Rollerhouse or building my own with stepper motors and Wifi. Jury's still out on that, I need to do some prototyping. I'd like to be able to make the stepper motors work, if I can figure out how to conceal them entirely inside an off-the-shelf blinds.com roller shade tube.
@@yiannisis I brought mine in from the side, through the 2x4 framing around the window. The wire then runs inside the small cavity between the top of the window itself and the header, then I routered a shallow groove in the window header to bring the wire up about 3 inches where it will exit the drywall. I have to do outside mount shades because my windows are not deep enough to do inside mount.
A dimmer switch like the TGWF500D would be perfect for controlling shades because it is momentary. A video on how to hardware hack a dimmer switch into Home Assistant to control all the blinds in a room would be very cool.
Smart 💡idea!
You should also calculate the time as a linear speed, and measure the noise level of each shade. Like how Lutron shows their shades move 3.6"/s and have a 38db rating.
speak english
@@zzSvinnread a book
@@LifestyleRoutinesDaily take a joke. remove the guts pfp buddy ur nothing like him 💀
@@zzSvinn lol you’re a nobody and know nothing of my personality
Thanks Rob! I've been deliberating on a roller blind solution for a couple of months now. This video was very informative and covered a good range of options. Also, I got a good giggle with "oh, the ZigBee"!
Edit: typo
Same here, but tbh every solution seems to suck. Like realy, 2 min to get your blinders up? Realy, its 2020 lol.
Na i will wait untill some one figures this shit out.
@@peternystrom921 replace the cheap motor/driver with a 12dollar 3d printer motor and driver problem fixed i use a wemos 17
Is it time for an update g of this video or is the market still much the same?
Id like to know too. I want to use zigbee... I also figured I should be able to use batteries if it's lightweight but maybe not (down the road I'd like to wire it into the wall but one step at a time)
Did you come up with a solution or try anything? If I remember I'll comment again if I get anything decent running.
Way to go man, what a great no bs video!
I found out that you don't need any TRADFRI gateway. Just the "USB range extender" (or whatever they call it), the remote and the shade. Everything is included in the package. And if you have a Zigbee gateway you may be able to control it without any further hardware. (I intend to do that with the Conbee USB stick and ioBroker.)
If the DIY option is updated with stronger motors etc please do a video!
These cheap steppers can be modified to work in bipolar mode, and like that, with a special driver, their torque is doubled.
No stronger motor required! Just run the stepper board with 12V instead of 5V. More than enough torque. 😊
@@stefanlasser6535 NEWBIE here lol, would the stepper motor need to be a 12v stepper motor instead of the 5 mentioned in the video? looking to speed up the shade a bit and as i posted originally window is a bit larger at 57 5/8 w x 36 h Thanks!
@@shawnperry1974 the boards i know say "5-12V". I even redesigned the thing to NOT use a 2:1 slowdown gear but drive it directly
@@stefanlasser6535 Have a link to your remix?
Would love an update here. Has to be advancements right?
The DIY setup is perfect to slowly open at a scheduled time in the morning just like the sunlight simulation lamps
Mine is not running the file rollershade.bin. Did it work for you any help please?
@@zeegrey3447 After flashing the binfile on my esp it opens an ap. After saving my own wifi name and pw it's trying to connect to my wifi and is no longer responsive.
The led starts flashing every few seconds and I can't connect to the webpage.
Was it the same for you?
So I have tried to flash the sourcecode via arduino IDE and this showed me following error message: cannot bind non-const lvalue reference of type 'String&' to an rvalue of type 'String' at webSocket.broadcastTXT("{ \"set\":" + String(set) + ", \"position\":" + String(pos) + " }");
@@RedAura99 yes same thing, after doing your WiFi configuration which leads no where, connect back to your WiFi and look for the esp IP and put its ip in url and you should see the page open up.
Fantastic video Rob!
While in lockdown I purchased two Ikea blinds to connect to my existing 76 Deconz device Home Assistant setup. After a few days, one of them dropped from the Zigbee mesh and became non-responsive... After days of repeated button pressing, I gave up and brought an Ikea bridge.... OMG the pain of getting that paired (tip - buy lots of spare CR2032 batteries!). Once finally paired I've just decided to leave the Ikea bridge also connected as a separate Zigbee mesh just for blinds, it integrates to HA and firmware updates are a lot easier.
Keep up the good work.
I've heard the Ikea bridge is much more stable than using zigbee2mqtt or deconz. I just hate having 100 different bridges.
@@TheHookUp Totally agree. I had moved to the single Pi4+Deconz solution from one Hue bridge and three Xiaomi bridges. I'm sure after a few more Deconz updates I'll end up trying it again :)
I cannot get this to work. I successfully flash the NodeMCU and get the initial setup screen but once I save I can ping the node 4 or 5 times and it just becomes unresponsive..even after a resetting.
Hey Rob, I'm having this exact same problem, any idea what the issue is?
At this moment I have 32 ZigBee devices (in-wall relays/switches [Sonoff, LUMI], Xiaomi/Honeywheel smoke sensors, PIR sensors [eWeLink, LUMI], Xiaomi light sensors, water sensors [TZ3000], IKEA wall switch, Philips HUE Ensis) in my house for at least one year. The only problem I had was RBPI and SD card(s). After migration to Intel NUC - it's running stable for months without maintenance (apart from home assistance). ZigBee works perfectly in my case/infra :). Greets :)
I can’t believe there’s no better motors for the DIY setup. Especially 2 years later. How about it?
Using these the Fyrturs with Hubitat, they need to have the "ping" command sent to them to refresh the battery status
Always love the videos Rob. Keep them up. It's helped me no end in all things smart home and home assistant. 👌
Great video and exactly what I was looking for! Keep doing shades videos as other home automations are simple in comparison.
Would love to see you throw Rollerhouse motors in the review mix. Also, maybe something with the Shelly 2.5 and dumb shades? I can't do solar because the wife doesn't like the look but I was thinking it would be cool to re-wire the Zemismart Solars and just have the battery as a backup. Basically, Motorized UPS Shades. I have like 20 windows that need to be automated so loving this content!
I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty certain that Zemismart and Rollerhouse source their products from the same factory.
Nice Video once again. I think the DIY will be better if the stepper motor is replaced with a Nema stepper motor and a redesigned 3D enclosure for the Nema stepper motor.
After all, simply using a string to manually roll them up and down sounds so simple and advanced. :-)
I’ve often thought the same about smart bulbs. Given the choice between flicking the light switch on or off and getting my phone out, opening the app and turning the lights on or off I’ll go with the switch.
Right? And then one day the motor burns out and they go in the landfill? No thanks. I'll take something foolproof and that lasts forever, thanks.
@@adityaprasad465 I can see them for very high applications, but thats about it.
@@philindeblanc Isn't recharging an issue in that case?
@@adityaprasad465 Those are usually hardwired from attic. They usually have solid motors, but they are preicey. The solar powered models are ok, but not as reliable and not discrete.
Great video Rob. While watching it gave me an idea for my holiday lights. I used the shower curtain solution on a window to project a loop, but during the day I have that "frosted" look. With a DiY shade I could automate it like a projector screen that hides away when not in use... I'll add it to the list, not tape for me this year lol
Nice!
I have replaced the smaller steppers with Nema 17 steppers nodemcu and drivers fit in the mount housing for the stepper
runs of 12-36V and can lift 1.5M wide blackout fabric
files will come on DYI plattforms once 100% satisfied with working solution
costs are a bit higher but for on the wall mounting works so much better
I did cut the fyrtur down the same way you did then It dawned on me... one can actually mount them in front of the window cutout and while that means it will stick out in front of the window cutout the shade itself will line itself against the wall and the draft won't be able to pull it outwards towards the open window.
I love the 4 wire motor from Zemismart. Then you can use whatever module you like. Downside: mains operated. Upside: Use whatever fabric you like, fits most windows, manual control, no cloud. No issues here with z-wave. my qubino module is better than Fibaro and shelly 2.5 (at the time of install).
I'm trying to figure this out for a new build. My main problem is finding the size of blind roller shades to work with the motor. Which blinds did you get and what's the size of the tube and motor?
@@MyFortressConstruction The hardest part for me was finding the tube that fits the motor. I could only find one place in the UK that sold it. As for the blind, anything will do as you will transfer the fabric onto the new tube. Hope this makes sense.
@@djashjones Ah, so you completely retrofitted it yourself. I didn't want to mess with gluing fabric onto 20 separate window shades... I was hoping to find a shade/roller already on a tube that would work with the motor so it was a simple swap, but no one states what kind of roller tube they have for their fabric. Seems like a prefabbed rechargeable unit that I can simply plug into a wall outlet is the way to go...
@@MyFortressConstruction no glue involved. Just peeled it the old one and re-stuck it on the new one. I think they use some sort of strong sticky tape.
I like the mains powered version because I can have manual switches to operate the blind if needed. The downside is the cable running down the wall but it's worth it.
@@djashjones I'm building a new home so I plan to have an outlet next to each window so it can be covered with a valance. So you just got an aluminium tube from a local curtain shop, got some brackets, and then plugged the motor into it? It already had doublesided sticky tape on it I'm assuming?
I use the IKEA blinds.
Smartthings has a built in device handlers that works perfectly with it even the battery all you need to do is change the device handlers from ZigBee window shade to ZigBee window shade battery, than everything will work. No need for any of the custom handlers.
In HA I use ZHA the blind works including the up and down arrow and the position updates if the blind is change manually too.
Hi everyone, I managed to make the stepper turn using the web interface but Alexa does not discover the device. Any idea why this would be?
Me too. Did you ever figure out how to connect it to Alexa?
Did you use the updated bin? I recompiled it a few months ago to fix some incompatibilities caused by alexa updates.
@@TheHookUp I might revisit this one! It’s was 2 years ago.
Ok. So the DIY solution REALLY appeals to me. Almost everything in my HA setup now is DIY. You mentioned with 433 rf being 1 say. Have you looked in to stuff like MySensors? That's what most of my stuff uses. It uses the nrf24l01 2.4g RF modules. Can send and receive nicely and does a great job reporting state. I am currently setup using the MySensors MQTT gateway, so anything that can send / receive MQTT can talk to my MySensors nodes. Some of the nodes (if on always on power like AC outlets ect) can act as repeaters extending the range. I would REALLY like to see/hear your thoughts on something like MySensors.
Do. you recommend the DIY solution for a skylight? There won't be gravity working for the motor so just wondering
I always get a kick out of situations like the 5 foot power cord for a motorized shade (in my case my window is in a tall gable wall about 14 feet from the floor)
Ie) we adopted a kitten and ordered cheap security cameras so we can watch her. Weplanned on mounting the cameras on top of the cabinets and 1 in the bedroom up high. Good thing the manufacterer ships it with 3' power cords!
is there a way to upgrade the motor to a strong motor?
Is there a DIY tutorial with battery AND solar charging integration?
This is what I immediately wondered was if you could add on to the printing process. Make a power housing essentially and wire it in. Fairly easy to hide stuff in the top of a window
I solved this problem with Somfy "dumb" motors (LS40's) controlled with Shelly 2.5's. I have 18 blinds on my network and the system with HA works like a charm. All are hardwired though which I understand is a deal breaker for many. Thanks Rob for recommending Shelly in your previous videos!
I REALLY dislike Somfy's "authorized dealer" model. I know you can pick them up on ebay and amazon from shady resellers, but I hate being forced into that position.
@@TheHookUp Totally agree!! We installed 30 of ST30 SDN RS485 as it was the only option. Ended up having to write the RS485 protocol myself! Not going to even tell you how crazy the price of those are!
Arn't Somfy Motors $200+. Dumb 4 wire motors controlled by Shelly 2.5s would be great for me because I am running power to all windows. However, I don't want to pay the Somfy premium.
@@jonathanochs8552 They are one of the best.
I have used the DIY version with a 6ft blackout blind at 12v for over a year, no issues here.
Are you using a buck converter to power the node mcu? They usually can’t handle a sustained 12v
Great video thanks! Is there no better motor we can use on DIY? I’m not concerned with speed, just power for a larger blind. Thanks again! 👌
Well, I put these motors inside a three-quarter inch pipe. I've been using my design for years. My Wi-Fi motor controller also fits inside the three-quarter inch pipe. Tasmota!!! www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Electric-Reduction-Centric-Diameter/dp/B072R57C56/
@@williambello4089 Have any additional information about your design? Which motor voltage and rpm did you use? Any information on the controller you are using?
@@maxdamage2122 the voltage can be anything from 8 to 30 volts. That is the limitation of the switching voltage regulator. I like to use tasmota firmware. The BlindBird uses a SPDT Dip relay for motor direction, capable of ≤125Vac @ 2Amps. So, the motor drive transistor is a Darlington, capable of ≤30Vdc @ 3Amps. I also included two switch inputs, controlling open and close limit s.
somfy.com?
@@williambello4089 can you show how you did it?
its really easy to swap the WR3 chip to a tasmota compatible ESP 07 chip
Thank you! I’ve been waiting for this video over a year now😂
Hope it was worth the wait :)
The DIY version works like a charm! How do I get back to the initial setup page after configuring the wifi the first time?
Hi Hon Wah Chee, can you help me? I can't reach module by IP address after connecting it to router (i see module in the connected devices list). Did it work for you?
@@YuryPenkerton lol did it work for you? After downloading I was not able to run the rollershade.bin file. Any help?
You should check out the 12v stepper motors diy solution - My experience with the solution is that the motors are strong enough if you have a somewhat smart acceleration/speed control (should be possible to integrate speed control based on posision aswell). Experiences are based on retrofitting the ikea roller shades with 12v 28byj, darlington transistor array, nodemcu and no gearing.
I have a strong belief you could make the DIY solution alot more attractive by making a couple of extra modifications ;-)
When you say "no gearing" are you saying no gearing other than the gears that are in the 28BYJ?
@@TheHookUp Correct. Can probably send you some documentation for pcb design, fusion design, code and so on. The design is not finalized as its still a work in progress.
@@tmolberg1 Did you ever get this working?
@@tmolberg1 I'm curious if this came to fruition. 🤔
@@zenginellc to some extent yes. Ofcourse with some limitations. We had success driving a blind of around 1x1 meter.
At the end of the day I gave up because the Ikea solution was so well packaged. If you want to have a look feel free to send me a message and i'll provide the board designs and source code.
Thankyou for this...you do amazing work. I love the humor (@1:39 cracked me up looking for the outlet!, and the comment about ikea instructions). I also love that you not only linked to the DIY solution but went through the work of updating the libraries and providing a bin file for your viewers. You also give a fair and balanced view that I can appreciate of the pros/cons. Do you know offhand how hard it'd be to update the DIY solution with a stronger motor? I'm wondering if a properly chosen Nema 17 or even 23 with a 12volt supply can help with torque, and then maybe using a Wemos D1 mini with a motor shield (I was suprised to find out they had a motor shield for those!). Regardless, I really appreciate the time and work you put into your videos, and the valuable infromation you provide us home automation enthusiasts :)
The code I used would need to be heavily modified to use a different stepper, because the original was written for the ULN2003 driver and a unipolar stepper.
The other issue you'd run into with a non-geared stepper is the holding torque when the coils are off is basically zero. By gearing down you give yourself that holding torque that's required to keep the shade in place when the coils are off.
@@TheHookUp OH awesome to know..I really need to ramp up on my knowlege of motors and steppers, my info there is really basic at best. I didn't think about when the coils are off...pretty important scenario :) Thanks! I'll also check out the projects Goog linked...I'm super excited that this is becoming easier to approach!
The best most useful TH-cam channel. Thanks
I'm looking for a cheap direct wire option. My problem is I can't find a decent roller shade that lists what the roller tube diameter is. Has anyone bought the direct wire roller motor and got some decent shades that worked together?
Really cool, video!
Here in Sweden there is a company that sell a semi DYI kit for that. It works great with a Qubino Z-wave flush shutter.
Fantastic video as always, but it kind of left me wondering about another option. Why not DIY with a solar panel, a battery and a stronger motor? Basically giving you a zemismart solar on steroids :)
Throw in a light sensor pointing outwards and a motion sensor pointing inwards and you've got the ultimate smart roller shades.
This is 100% the update we need.
but why not upgrade the motor for the DIY option to bring it closer to "buy" specs? (or just show it as other option
I was thinking the same thing, I may have to experiment with a stronger motor.
@@DAYochelson I think the problem is that one does not exist at this size.
@@Pleasiotic1 a 3d printer motor is a perfect fit you don't need to use a gear ratio so it can be parallel to the tube
I don't get the problem with Zigbee, is it the protocol or rather this specific device support? Have you tried Zigbee2Mqtt? The only thing complaint I have towards Zigbee as a protocol is an insistence by different manufacturers on using their own hub. Having said that, I am using zigbee2mqtt with over 45 devices in my house and everything works without the fuss, although around 25 of them are also Zigbee routers. I think Zigbee2Mqtt should be integrated into Home Assistant is getting better and better. OK, enough rambling, great video Rob, keep it up. BTW, you have convinced me to get 3D Printer but decided on getting Prusa Mk3 kit.
Basically hit it on the head. Because manufacturers want you to use their own hub they are all using non-standard communication protocols that require device drivers to be understood. Zwave for instance requires that specific device types communicate in specific ways, so they are compatible with any hub.
I haven't gotten deep into Zigbee2MQTT yet, but I'm hoping it will solve that issue for me, since I still have a lot of zigbee devices that won't work with Deconz.
@@TheHookUp Oh, OK, then I definitely recommend Zigbee2Mqtt. I'm not sure if you're going to need it but I would also recommend adding an external antenna to the CC2531 router/controller, it greatly improves the signal. The reason I actually went with Zigbee was the smart sockets, the way ESP2866 works and controls the high voltage, it trips my RCD fuse while switching, IKEA sockets don't.
Funnily enough, I find Zigbee more reliable than Wi-Fi, especially now, Zigbee2Mqtt is getting better and better. The other thing I love about it is the Xiaomi sensors, they are reliable, with a modern look, small footprint and great price, and they run on battery for 2 years, almost.
Although more expensive, wouldn’t it be possible to use a Nema stepper motor instead? They are more powerful and the cost is still affordable. I believe that even with Nema motors the DIY solution would be the cheapest.
I don’t know about the speed improvement though...
besides MQTT, is there another way to use your DIY with HomeAssistant?
whenever HA core restart, HA has no idea where the roller shade's position is.
You can set up your HA to remember the last state with the recorder component. You can also use tasmota or ESP home to set up a stepper motor and driver.
Would you be able to use a more substantial 12v roller blind tubular motor with the diy method? Obviously you'd need 12v to it not 5 but would the code work in the same way?
These stepper boards take 5-12 volts. Run them with 12v and the torque is much much higher
Most roller shade motors have their control circuits built into them.
This is amazing thankyou for being so thorough !
Good evening, is there any option to set static IP on NODE MCU? Every time my router is restarting it changing roller shades IP address and it’s very disappointing 😢
How do your outdoor "DIY Motorized Roller Shades + Wireless MQTT Smart Home Integration" roller blinds that you did in 2018 compare with all these? Are those still going strong or have they puckered out? That stepper motor you used in that project doesn't seem to have the same cons that the cheap ones from this video do but when you didn't mention them at all in this comparison it makes me think they were ultimately a fail and that's why you wouldn't have compared them at all in this video. Did I miss the update on those? LOVE your videos and I can honestly say I wouldn't enjoy this space without you! Thanks!
Outdoor shades are still going strong. The issue with those compared with these is they need to have 3" of clearance to the left of the shade to fit, which isn't an option in this case. The stepper motors are also quite a bit more expensive, which at that point would put the cost of the project close to or above the wired tubular motor from this video.
Hey there! Thank you for this video. So I'm in love with the DIY solution, however the cons seem pretty easy to to overcome by getting a faster, more powerful motor, and I'd be surprised if there isn't tutorials on how to do this already.
So do you or anyone else know of other DIY tutorials that have stronger motors? The window I'm wanting to use this on are easily 3 times the width of the window in this video, and I plan on using blackout fabric which will be heavier.
Also, it's fairly simple to extend the power cable of the Zemismart Tuya and hide the wire, so I wouldn't consider this a con. Also Rob, I think that something I've noticed in a lot of your videos is that you don't consider renters when making these videos.
Did you ever find a solution? My windows are about 50" wide and I'm also wanting to use blackout versions. Then again, I haven't even found the $10 blinds he referred to from lowes, but at least if I knew there was a heavier duty version of this DIY setup out there I'd feel better proceeding.
teenhype90210 No, unfortunately not. No official response, but I’m sure you can go to a makers forum or someone who knows everything there is to know about small motors like this and ask, I just haven’t put in the time.
Just ordered some NodeMCU boards. Also have a 240V 40A relay and planning to try and set my water heater to run on a schedule. During the summer my power rate fluctuates and going to try and set it up so that I can have the email come in and get data scraped for the power rate and automatically turn off at a certain time when the rate will be high and back on when it drops back down. And yes I have a huge heatsink so the relay should not overheat.
Since I have spare boards I may end up doing the blinds as well. Only need it for two windows that I have facing north and since I am in an apartment I am limited on what I can do but would be nice if they would open and close at certain times of the day. I am always short on cash and have extra time so DIY is the way to go though I will probably look at a more powerful motor to swap into the system or set it up so there is a pair of them working together which should increase the speed and weight capacity, which is actually a good option that only requires a little bit of modification to the design and doesn't increase the cost that much. Driving one from each end would be another option that would be pretty simple since a single board should be able to handle two at the same time.
I have problems to connect my diy solution to alexa. What I'm doing wrong?
Is it not possible to use a more powerful motor for the DIY option ? How much more would it cost?
Great job! Amazing code for that WiFi config interface, seems like it could improve your outdoor motorized shades code too. Do you think some power monitoring is able to be performed on the DIY method? I think a small solar panel and tiny lithium charge board could keep a 9V battery well prepared for each day’s use - as long as it’s on the side of the house with good sun, or it’s a long thin panel that can hide.
Also seems like the DIY code makes it able to be built and sold at a profit for cheaper than the off the shelf
If you want to build it and sell it, go for it :)
newbie here...i want to remotely turn on and off a small battery operated motor. I want to use an old bluetooth dslr camera control. the original control connects to the camera and triggers the shutter. Think I can adapt it start and stop a small battery powered motor? thanks
Any updates on these off-the-shelf solutions?
1. I just watched a review of the IKEA blinds from Homekit Authority and he said he only got about 2 months of battery life per blind.
2. He had no advise for how to convert them from battery to wired, but it should be possible, right?
3. We're remodeling and are running new power and networking everywhere. Are there any POE options for blinds?
I have 4 of them and I fully open and close them once a day on a schedule.. Mine tend to last 4-6mo on a charge depending on additional opening and closing during that period of time.
This is definitely a "your milage may vary". Of my three, one of them drains 2x as fast as the other two, which the two mentioned lasting about 3 months on a charge (going up and down once a day)
Spend the money and get custom coverings. Lutron has battery powers shades that will go 3 years on 6 D cell batteries. Or Budget Blinds new Smart Home motors are rechargeable and will last about 12-15 months before a charge is needed. A 36x60 Window will be about $500 but ZERO hassle... I know its expensive but it is the best bet for your application. Also Lutron and Somfy make a 12v power panel that will allow the use of low voltage wire to be run in the wall.
How wide is the "control panel" on the Zemismart motor - the bit that houses the micro usb connector? Knowing the usb port dimensions and judging form that, seems to be around 5mm, but for some reason I can't find any schematics anywhere.
Hey i build your exact set up and was wondering why i cannot access the web interface. It will not load and says it doesn’t exist. I must be doing something wrong but i got this far and would really appreciate any help. Thank you
I love the solar solution you have here. I have 4 windows up high.. 14' what do I need to buy to install and link all 4 window? They are 8' wide and 2' tall windows. Using patio shades. They come 8'x8'. I will be removing fabric to reduce weight. Thanks.
It would be sweet to see a diy battery solution! Just can't get past the ugly cord coming out of the corner.
I've been trying, like really hard, for over a year now. Anything that works is too complicated for most users, anything that's easy has garbage battery life.
@@TheHookUp it would be sweet if we could just duplicate with a 3d printer the zemismart solar motor parts and use even like 3 AA batteries to power it. Just watched Paul Hibbert's video on installing and it was slick.
Zemismart Solar - how is the fabric installed on the motor? How is the motor installed on the window? Will the motor work with different width / height fabric? Where do you buy the fabric from? Thanks!
A lot of great info in this video! Well done!
i think the first one you presented the 47$ one or so... if we are comfortable changing wires and splicing etc... seems like the best option? i have a sunroom id like to add this to... and I have a T-Box (junction box) nearby I could connect directly. Is WiFi still the best protocol to connect? I have a few other items that connect to Tuya/SmartLife ive been adding through the years with no issues. seems the link to that one doesnt work anymore and i cant find it on aliexpress
Surely there's better motors and corresponding gearing to speed up the DIY version?
Increased speed would mean decreased torque (with the same size motor). Other motors are certainly available that would be faster and stronger, but at that point you're losing the price advantage of DIY.
Would think there's a happy medium between price and performance. Your diy price is much lower than the others. Increase it by $20 or so for a better motor and you have the best of both
Yes there are. Those stepper motors are garbage will not last at all. Good roller shade motors are about 15inchs long and rated in Newton Meters.
Is there a DIY option that can integrate to google home ? That would awesome.
Is the remote in 3:07 the AC114-01B? If so, were you able to connect it to Sonoff Bridge? I bought Sonoff Bridge just to emulate that remote but I cannot teach the bridge to use it...
I use tasmota on my sonoff RF bridge and I run it in "raw mode", it works. It is an AC114-01B, yes.
@@TheHookUp Thanks for answering. I am also using Tasmota but not in the "raw mode" and the remote cannot be sniffed that way. I will look up this "raw mode" you mentioned. Thanks!
Have you found a different motor for the diy solution? Also, it seems like it would be trivial to add a couple of 18650 batteries and a smallish solar panel to power the diy solution.
can't reach DIY solution via web interface. any advice? setup is fine - no AP in wi-fi list and led flashing. I see board as connected device in router list
May already have been said but the motors can be modded for more torque and they are so cheap you can put one at each end , pretty sure the driver is fine with 2 steppers
Yeah, I modded them for a previous project (blinds automation), but this code was written for the ULN2003 driver, not the A4988, so I couldn't do that mod without rewriting the code... maybe later.
@@TheHookUp I was thinking again Rob, it was some time ago I did mine and may be misremembering but I used some code at around that time that had the poles triggered in the wrong order, I don't think it was this but may be worth a check. Thanks for the modded code I will have try of that.
@@ooslum Yeah, I'm aware of that bug. It's with the original example that comes with these steppers. This code doesn't have that error.
Where can we get shades that meet the 36-38 mm inner diameter requirement of the Zemismart?
I bought the Zemismart mains powered motor and I can't find a compatible blind here in Canada.
Thanks for the comprehensive yet concise video, super well put together. Do you have any suggestions for roller shades you know work with the zenismart blind with the solar panel you linked to? I see they list 38mm as the compatible tube size but most blind sellers don't seem to list that specification.
Did you end up getting an answer? I am running into the same issue looking for shades for my new house and everyone seems to gloss over where to find actual shades!
Any solutions for vertical blinds? 1 movement to swivel the vertical blinds and a 2nd movement to open close the blinds. Would be good to fit on 1 motor.
Why not use the diy with the 12v versions of that motor can use a bulk power converter like you did for the slatted blinds ?
You can add it to your philips hue hub if i recall correct
They are both zigbee, but I have no idea how well it would function in that case
@@TheHookUp okay 👌. I was wondering; is it possible to hookup a stronger stepper or a dual stepper (for more power)?
You make always a great videos!
Pls make a new one with a less cheap (and more power) stepper motor pls!
Or at least pls suggest me a better motor to use
Is there a way to automate blinds while still leaving a manual option? (Cord)
Hi there, I have a smart device question and I hope you could help. My end goal is to have a notification on my phone every time my tank (which is filled with water) is almost empty. I'm planning on using a float switch to get that info but my problem is, and that's why you struck a chord by saying 'one way protocol', that I don't know what type of smart device I should be looking for to get that done. For the notification part, I guess tasker will do, I just don't get how I will have that closed or open circuit information transmitted wirelessly. Any tips? If anyone can help please reply. Thanks a lot
Can you do a video motorizing vertical blinds without the cord? I have blinds the work with a pull stick that hangs from the track.
There aren't too many products like that on the market these days. There's one on indegogo right now that I am set to receive, but I won't give my recommendation until I see it work.
I have a though... I am not a maker at all but I am a mechanic and enjoy watching this stuff so with that said. Could you not make a gear ratio assembly inside with the motor box to speed it up??
Hey man, cool video. I just build the DIY version, but I am missing a google home integration. Can you tell me how to do this, or just point me in the right direction? :)
This might sound like a really obvius question. But can´t you just get a little bit bigger stepper to handle larger curtains, or move them fasteR?
Sure, but at what point does the cost of the materials approach the cost of a purpose built product, and as steppers get larger they are harder to conceal.
@@TheHookUp well.... If The step motor Cost $3... a $6 should be att least twice as strong. That would still be cheap
Even slower i would prefer the DIY version integrations. If you have heavy shades or you need more speed i suggest to change that tiny stepper motor with a bigger one... they reach a really big monster size... but with some dollars more than yours you can get a decent one... take a look to NEMA.
Hi, can you please provide your professional opinion on whether I should install two side-by-side equal width blinds, or one blind for a 82-inch wide kitchen window ?
Thanks!
I am trying this now. If I skip the MQTT stuff I can get to the configuration website. If I try to add that in the webpage never loads. Any tips on finding the name of my mqtt server? I have it going in homeassistant but have not used it up until now. Will the alexa thing work without the MQTT?
I have a sonoff RF bridge
flashed with tasmota and portisch firmware . Couldn’t get the RF codes for the wireless solar roller shade remote(Remote is 433Mhz) .If you have successfully learnt the RF codes from the remote, can you please share any documentation or instructions ?
Thanks!
Yes. I am using a tasmota RF bridge in "Raw Mode": github.com/Portisch/RF-Bridge-EFM8BB1/issues/118
@@TheHookUp Awesome,works as expected after flashing the new hex file . Was using a old hex file before and hence the issue . Thanks again for the inputs . Great informative videos !
What is needed to drive this at 9v vs 5v? Reading through this and the thingiverse comments about using 9v to drive this stepper to move blinds is needed. Is that just a matter of using a USB power supply that outputs 9v vs 5v or in the example a 9v batter?
9V will give you more torque. The demonstration in the video is 5V. A 9V battery would last around 1-2 hours of idling with the WiFi connection.
thanks for the video
I'm doing the diy blind and wonder if you can add ir receiver with remote control option open, close and stop to your code and diagram
When you say "go buy a 3d printer" can you recommend one that is suitable for such a DIY project like window shades? A printer that could be used at home or in the garden?
He linked one in the description
i install program.flash.i made wifi settings.but i cant connect and program disappears.i cant find solution.can anyone help
I have 3 of these setups but they seem to vie or compete with available com ports.... is there something I can to to increase the com port assignment so that each has its own comport?
Can you rewrite the code to work with standard stepper drivers like the A4988 for the nema-17?
It's on my list of things to do, yes.
The Hook Up Thanks😊
I tried the tasmota method that he suggested in the Thingiverse remix with the NEMA-17 but I couldn’t get it to work very well. I would be nice if you could make a version of the code to work with it.