Using the refrigerant already in the system to push the sealant into the system is brilliant! Product instructions don't mention your technique at all, and instead recommend adding it while recharging the system with new refrigerant to help push it in. Thanks for taking the time to post this video!
After adding product, can you leave the system running? Last year, end of summer my system was having a hard time cooling, didnt touch it, but this year its was so low it did not even kick in, added this product to it after topping off system, left it running, next day, it lost about a pound of freon, any suggestion? Tried finding leak through soaking all connections and no bubbles
Well to answer the first part of your comment, yes you are actually supposed to keep the system running for at least an hour. To comment on the second part, if you lost a pound in one day then you have a leak too big for this product to work. Please share with me where you eventually find the major leak at, and what kind of system you are working with. Take care man, hope everything works out for you!
Hello there, Nice presentation. I have a minor leak in the oil trap next to compressor 5ton Raheem condenser. The trap is oil wet at the bottom of trap. R22 25yrs old system. It still cooling. Need your advice. Thank and regards helping humanity with you effort of making video. God bless us all
Have a 3 ton York, that is 15 years old. It is running at 10 degrees difference between the air outside and what is coming from the vents. I was told it should be 20 degrees. I have another unit that is the same age, and puts out the 20 degree difference. Fan motor and capacitor all within the limits and running fine. I am having trouble finding a good contractor. I think it may be a leak (must be a pin hole). I am a confident DIYer, don't have the manifold and never done any A/C work. Well maybe I should try this, but even if this works, I would still need to add R-22 which I can only get in the can. Any advice? Is this doable by a fairly handy person?
If you have a old unit that is 15 years old it's costing you more money than it's worth just have it replace buy a certified professional with a new 3 ton 14-sear it will pay for itself with a much lower electric bill
Thank you. I ended up replacing the A/C unit. When they pulled it out we found the repair job someone did with JB weld and also that no air driers had been installed. Runs much better - replaced a 1 ton with 1.5 ton unit. Other matching old A/C unit still working fine. But I did find a competent contractor at a price I thought was justified.
My 5 ton AC unit has a leak in the evaporator coil and the AC technician already recharged twice my unit. So I don't know if I buy this we have to put the fryon or refrigerant first and then the Seal leak after or sealleak first and then the fryon or refrigerant... any advice??
I normally put it in while I am charging the system back up. This customer didn't want it to start with, but near the end of the visit he came up to me and said to go ahead with it. Which is why I showed this way of installing the product. THIS WILL NOT WORK ON BIG LEAKS!!!!!!! Let me be very clear, If your having to add freon more than once a year, this product is not for you.
@@danpowell4998 my AC technician sprayed the Evaporator coil and AC system outside and did not notice any leak, he said to change better the Evaporator coil because the problem will be there. So I was thinking using the LeakSeal first before make a desicion to change the coil, other problem is that I read that the R22 refrigerant will not be available by 2020 and the AC y system has to be 410A system, so I don't know if I have to but a new AC unit or empty the R22 system and recharge it with 410A refrigerant? Any advice? Or buy the home warranty. Any advice? This changes will be so expensive for me.
If you have an R-22 system, then I would suggest to save the money to replace it very soon. You are right about the R-22 being gone soon. The drop in replacement refrigerant is not 410-A. You can convert it to another type of refrigerant, but the problem there is that your going to pay all that money to have it done, then you're going to wind up with a failed compressor soon after. Most people do not take the time to do a conversion the correct way, and even doing it the correct way sometimes, you still dont get all of the mineral oil out of the system. I feel that it is an injustice to do a customer this way. At this point the customer is just throwing money down the drain. My professional advice is that you spend your money correctly. Purchase a new system from a reliable and trustworthy company. Do not choose the lowest bidder, unless you would like more problems. Texas A&M and Louisiana State University recently did a study and found that over 90% of new systems installs were improperly installed, so make sure you are put into that 10% with a company that will do it right the first time. Continuing to throw money at the system you have is not the thing to do. And if a company ever tells you otherwise, then they are taking advantage of you. In our world the profit margin is much higher in the service and repair area, than it is in the new installation area, even though you have to pay a lot more for a new system. This is because when you purchase a new system from a great company, they will register the equipment for you so that you get the 10 YR parts warranty, then ask them if they offer an extended labor and maintenance package. Any Great company will be able to offer this to you. This is an expensive upfront cost, but imagine buying a new system, and anytime something goes wrong in the next 10 years, you dont have to pay anything for anything to have it repaired. We call that peace of mind, and it is very difficult to put a price on that. I hope this info helps you better make a decision. God Bless!
This product works great on a small leak. You have a very large leak. You would be wasting your money trying this at this time. I would recommend that you go with the repair. Has anyone explained to you where the leak is? For it to be leaking down every 30 days, you have a significant leak, and it should be easy to spot with a leak detector and bubbles.
Dan Powell we haven’t been able to spot the leak yet we believe is the line behind the walls.the next step I was told to use nitrogen to find the leak. Thank you
Sorry, I didnt see this response, but a good question none the less! The pressure needed to add this to the suction side of the system is just a little more than the suction pressure. It is best to install while recharging the system, that way the new refrigerant will help push it in. ........ Hope this answers your question.
This is always the problem with new inventions,since the time this technology was developed there has been lots of them and it now creates the issue of knowing which one of them is the right one to use to get the best result.
It would be helpful if he showed how to disconnect the hoses at the end. He says “make sure air does not go into the system” but he does not show how to do that.
Put the sealer in (it goes in quickly) then when it's time for you to leave, tell customer to leave the unit on continuously for 1 hour, then switch the thermo back to Auto and the correct temp.
Not the TRUE way to make a video for this GIMMICK/B.S. product. If you truly wanted to show how effective (it's actually very ineffective for leaks) this product is, you would have shown the viewers the real-time leak in the evap coil and made an unedited video of the product going into the system and you walking over to the evap coil and showing how "magically" the leak gets plugged by the snake-oil product.
Well this unit hasn't had any more refrigerant added to it since this video. Everyone has their own opinion about this product, but in my experience with it, it has worked really well. The leak on this evaporator coil was very small and located in the fin area in the middle of the coil. Every maintenance visit, we would have to add 1/2 to 1 lb of refrigerant to it. There was no video magic here! I was simply pressing the pause button and restarting it when I had the next step prepped. I did video it going in, if you had paid attention. If you do not like the product, then do not sell it. It is that simple. I like the product, but I am always up front with my customers in which I always explain that this is a temporary fix, and it will either work or it will not work and there is no in between. From there it is their decision to make.
Using the refrigerant already in the system to push the sealant into the system is brilliant! Product instructions don't mention your technique at all, and instead recommend adding it while recharging the system with new refrigerant to help push it in. Thanks for taking the time to post this video!
After adding product, can you leave the system running?
Last year, end of summer my system was having a hard time cooling, didnt touch it, but this year its was so low it did not even kick in, added this product to it after topping off system, left it running, next day, it lost about a pound of freon, any suggestion?
Tried finding leak through soaking all connections and no bubbles
Well to answer the first part of your comment, yes you are actually supposed to keep the system running for at least an hour. To comment on the second part, if you lost a pound in one day then you have a leak too big for this product to work. Please share with me where you eventually find the major leak at, and what kind of system you are working with. Take care man, hope everything works out for you!
Hello there, Nice presentation. I have a minor leak in the oil trap next to compressor 5ton Raheem condenser. The trap is oil wet at the bottom of trap. R22 25yrs old system. It still cooling. Need your advice. Thank and regards helping humanity with you effort of making video. God bless us all
Have you had any compressor failures or any other problems using this product?
I have not noticed any as a result of adding this product to a system. Follow the instructions and it will work on very small leaks.
Helpful vid!
Should the system be recharged first? Or do I use this first, then recharge the refrigerant?
you can push it in also with the new freon
Have a 3 ton York, that is 15 years old. It is running at 10 degrees difference between the air outside and what is coming from the vents. I was told it should be 20 degrees. I have another unit that is the same age, and puts out the 20 degree difference. Fan motor and capacitor all within the limits and running fine.
I am having trouble finding a good contractor. I think it may be a leak (must be a pin hole). I am a confident DIYer, don't have the manifold and never done any A/C work. Well maybe I should try this, but even if this works, I would still need to add R-22 which I can only get in the can. Any advice? Is this doable by a fairly handy person?
If you have a old unit that is 15 years old it's costing you more money than it's worth just have it replace buy a certified professional with a new 3 ton 14-sear it will pay for itself with a much lower electric bill
Thank you. I ended up replacing the A/C unit. When they pulled it out we found the repair job someone did with JB weld and also that no air driers had been installed. Runs much better - replaced a 1 ton with 1.5 ton unit. Other matching old A/C unit still working fine. But I did find a competent contractor at a price I thought was justified.
My 5 ton AC unit has a leak in the evaporator coil and the AC technician already recharged twice my unit. So I don't know if I buy this we have to put the fryon or refrigerant first and then the Seal leak after or sealleak first and then the fryon or refrigerant... any advice??
I normally put it in while I am charging the system back up. This customer didn't want it to start with, but near the end of the visit he came up to me and said to go ahead with it. Which is why I showed this way of installing the product. THIS WILL NOT WORK ON BIG LEAKS!!!!!!! Let me be very clear, If your having to add freon more than once a year, this product is not for you.
@@danpowell4998 my AC technician sprayed the Evaporator coil and AC system outside and did not notice any leak, he said to change better the Evaporator coil because the problem will be there. So I was thinking using the LeakSeal first before make a desicion to change the coil, other problem is that I read that the R22 refrigerant will not be available by 2020 and the AC y system has to be 410A system, so I don't know if I have to but a new AC unit or empty the R22 system and recharge it with 410A refrigerant? Any advice? Or buy the home warranty. Any advice? This changes will be so expensive for me.
If you have an R-22 system, then I would suggest to save the money to replace it very soon. You are right about the R-22 being gone soon. The drop in replacement refrigerant is not 410-A. You can convert it to another type of refrigerant, but the problem there is that your going to pay all that money to have it done, then you're going to wind up with a failed compressor soon after. Most people do not take the time to do a conversion the correct way, and even doing it the correct way sometimes, you still dont get all of the mineral oil out of the system. I feel that it is an injustice to do a customer this way. At this point the customer is just throwing money down the drain. My professional advice is that you spend your money correctly. Purchase a new system from a reliable and trustworthy company. Do not choose the lowest bidder, unless you would like more problems. Texas A&M and Louisiana State University recently did a study and found that over 90% of new systems installs were improperly installed, so make sure you are put into that 10% with a company that will do it right the first time. Continuing to throw money at the system you have is not the thing to do. And if a company ever tells you otherwise, then they are taking advantage of you. In our world the profit margin is much higher in the service and repair area, than it is in the new installation area, even though you have to pay a lot more for a new system. This is because when you purchase a new system from a great company, they will register the equipment for you so that you get the 10 YR parts warranty, then ask them if they offer an extended labor and maintenance package. Any Great company will be able to offer this to you. This is an expensive upfront cost, but imagine buying a new system, and anytime something goes wrong in the next 10 years, you dont have to pay anything for anything to have it repaired. We call that peace of mind, and it is very difficult to put a price on that. I hope this info helps you better make a decision. God Bless!
Excellent demonstration
Dan i have to charge my system every 30 days in summer time because a leak do you think this product may fix it thank you
This product works great on a small leak. You have a very large leak. You would be wasting your money trying this at this time. I would recommend that you go with the repair. Has anyone explained to you where the leak is? For it to be leaking down every 30 days, you have a significant leak, and it should be easy to spot with a leak detector and bubbles.
Dan Powell we haven’t been able to spot the leak yet we believe is the line behind the walls.the next step I was told to use nitrogen to find the leak. Thank you
What psi lowside is needed for installation. Great video
Sorry, I didnt see this response, but a good question none the less! The pressure needed to add this to the suction side of the system is just a little more than the suction pressure. It is best to install while recharging the system, that way the new refrigerant will help push it in. ........ Hope this answers your question.
did it work? any call backs??
This is always the problem with new inventions,since the time this technology was developed there has been lots of them and it now creates the issue of knowing which one of them is the right one to use to get the best result.
Why won't any of my selections I make to watch for fixing something, open up? Has utube gone "Pay Per View"?
buy you tube fix a leak
It would be helpful if he showed how to disconnect the hoses at the end. He says “make sure air does not go into the system” but he does not show how to do that.
just disconnect quickly
Use low loss fittings, or ball valves on the end of your hoses
Shut up 🤐 LOL🤩 no just kidding I love your videos man😃 keep GOING 🤩💞😳
On my side , the boss would go ape crazy if I took 1 hour to put that seal in. Maybe it’s time to move on lol
Put the sealer in (it goes in quickly) then when it's time for you to leave, tell customer to leave the unit on continuously for 1 hour, then switch the thermo back to Auto and the correct temp.
Not the TRUE way to make a video for this GIMMICK/B.S. product. If you truly wanted to show how effective (it's actually very ineffective for leaks) this product is, you would have shown the viewers the real-time leak in the evap coil and made an unedited video of the product going into the system and you walking over to the evap coil and showing how "magically" the leak gets plugged by the snake-oil product.
Well this unit hasn't had any more refrigerant added to it since this video. Everyone has their own opinion about this product, but in my experience with it, it has worked really well. The leak on this evaporator coil was very small and located in the fin area in the middle of the coil. Every maintenance visit, we would have to add 1/2 to 1 lb of refrigerant to it. There was no video magic here! I was simply pressing the pause button and restarting it when I had the next step prepped. I did video it going in, if you had paid attention. If you do not like the product, then do not sell it. It is that simple. I like the product, but I am always up front with my customers in which I always explain that this is a temporary fix, and it will either work or it will not work and there is no in between. From there it is their decision to make.
Bed video quality