Collapsing Katana - Timelapse with Ender 3 V2 [8]
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2021
- A timelapse of the already well known collapsing Katana by 3DPRINTINGWORLD
it looks great and works flawless
Make sure to print the testprint that he provided to be sure the whole print will work when done.
Thingy: www.thingiverse.com/thing:363...
185°C/55°C
75mm/s
Sunlu black PLA - บันเทิง
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Hey man! Awesome timelapse! Could you perhaps share your print settings for this print? I would like all the settings if that is possible, since I have been having problem with the settings on my printer and I would like to compare with someone else.
Yea sure
I hope it helps you out :)
1: So basically you should first make sure that you got your e-steps, steps/mm for X,Y and Z, and the flowrate calibrated correcty. Flowrate ist very important here!
2: Make sure your first layer is not squished. Thats what the testprint is for. (usually i have a Z-offset of -2.40 and for that print it was -2.35). Also try lower bed temps so you wont get an elephant foot (i usually print at 60°C and for that print it was 55°C)
3: Cura Settings:
Quality
-Layer Height: 0.12 mm
-Initial Layer Height: 0.2 mm
-Wall Line Width: 0.4 mm
-Top/Bottom Line Width: 0.4 mm
-Initial Layer Line Width: 100%
Walls
-Wall Thickness 0.8 mm
-Wall Line Count 2
-Outer Wall Wipe Distance 0.8 mm (specifically high for this print)
-Optimize Wall Printing Order [check]
-Fill Gaps Between Walls [Everywhere]
-Print Thin Walls [check]
-Horizontal Expansion 0.0 mm
-Z Seam Alignment (where ever you want - i just put it back left so the camera would not see it. Some People say its better to take "random" but it make no difference if wipe and coast is set properly)
-Seam corner Preference [Smart hiding]
Top/Bottom
-Top/Bottom Thickness 1.0 mm
-Top Layers 5
- Bottom Layers 5
-Enable Ironing [no]
Infill
-Infill Density 15% (but doesnt do anything as you only print walls)
-Infill line Distance 4.0 mm
-Infill Pattern Gyroid
-Infill line Multiplier 1
-Infill overlap Percentage 30%
-Infill layer thickness 0.12 mm
-gradual infill steps 0
Material
-Printing temperature 185°C (that sunlu PLA prints at kind of low temperature - may differ!)
-Printing Temperature initial layer 190°C
-Initial Printing Temperature 185°C
-Final prinitng Temperature 185°C
-Buildplate Temeperature 55°C
-Initial Layer 55°C
-Flow 90% (MAKE SURE TO CALIBRATE IT)
-Wall Flow 90%
-Outer Wall Flow 90%
-Inner Walls Flow 90%
-Initial Layer Flow 90%
Speed
-Print speed 75 mm/s
-Infill Speed 75 mm/s
-Wall Speed 37.5 mm/s
-Outer Wall Speed 37.5 mm/s
-Inner Wall Speed 37.5 mm/s
-Top Bottom SPeed 37.5 mm/s
-Initial Layer speed 15 mm/s
-Initial layer travel Speed 125 mm/s
-z hop 5 mm/s
-Enable acceleration control [no]
-Enable jerk control [no]
Travel
-Enable retraction [yes]
-Retract at layer change [yes]
-Retraction distance 1.75 mm
-retraction speed 20.0 mm/s
-Combing mode [all]
-Avoid Printed parts when traveling [no]
-z hop when retracted [yes]
Cooling
-Enable Print cooling [yes]
-Fanspeed 50% (i got 2 50mm part cooling fans - so yours may differ!)
-Regular Fanspeed 50%
-MAximum fanspeed 50%
-Regular/maximum fan speed treshold 10%
-Initial fanspeed 0%
-Regular Fanspeed at height 0.44 mm
-Regular fan speed at layer 4
-Minimum layer time 0.0s
-minimum speed 10 mm/s
-lift head [NO]
Support
-generate support [NO]
Buildplate adhesion
-skirt
Experimental
-Enable coasting [yes]
-coasting volume 0.15 mm
-Minimum Volume before coasting 0.8 mm
-Coasting speed 90.0%
-Overhang wall angle 90.0° (never changed that)
-Overhanging wall speed 100% (never changed that)
@@Sersch194 didnt work for me :( it has these radnom bits sticking out
Those are coming from your seam. You have to try out and find the correct retraction and Coast settings For your printer. Those depend from, Extruder, PTFE Tube length, if its a direct Drive printer or a bowden one etc.
Most important values to check are retraction, printing Temperature, wipe distance, coasting.
There is a test print on the thingiverse page that is made to Print in a short time and try the settings Out and change them until it works. It Took me a whole day aswell until i could Print the sword in one piece
@@Sersch194 yea maybe the problem is that I’m trying to do this as my second 3d print ever 😅
Also I mean it should be the same settings cause I also have a ender 3 v2
Painted and printed so well I thought that was on a bamboo lab
Either those parallel lines are messing with YT's compression algo, or your katana is warping reality sir.
It's warping reality.
Finally, a blade worthy to face the Yamato.
Bro upgraded Ganondorf's katana 💀
I wish the 3d printed katanas didn't all have a double edged blade
Stronger than original 🤯
So cool 👍👍👍
This is a really cool print. The double edge and the straighness of the blade make me uncomfortable. But the fact that it's collapsible makes up for it.
Cool, but not a katana, looks more like a chinese jian.
Well it's not exactly easy to make a collapsible curved structure fit inside a straight structure
Actually there is already a stl that does exactly that. But when i printed anf filmed this sword, the collapsable category was at the very beginning 😄
well I printed it but I forgot to disable supports so mine might just be a hilt that has a good weight and sound to it
So was supose to be made whit out supports meh haha
this is SICK
I'd buy this!
its a little straight to be a katana but still cool as fuck
I have an ender 3 v2 neo, and i am printing the sword as i type this 😆
So far it look amazing!
I wish you the best results!
i have the neo too, just cant get the seams to stop fusing, and the bottom, even in slicer has the outer wall have one wall, innerr most has 3, and the other one has 2 like its supposed too. Can I have your exact settings @victorbredenkamp1477
Awesome. I printed one before I saw your video, but the bottom got stuck. What setting does 75mm/s apply to?
The 75mm/s are just my printspeed. Since there is no complex structure you can go quite fast. If your bottom gets stuck you need to try following with the testprint out: reduce bed temperature or get the nozzle less close to the bed (adapt z Offset). Thats why i have a 50° C bed here. Normally i print at 60°C but in this Case you need as low as possible while not delaminating from bed.
@@Sersch194having the bed colder and nozzle less close to the bed makes the ender 3 v3 ke bed adhesion issue even more prominent in theory. I tried used a raft but the seems would cause the blades to not expand and get stuck
Hey man nice print it looks great. Also a suggestion if you want to make it look more realistic katanas only have one bladed edge
Hi, thanks. As i already wrote several times: im not the Designer of this model. Also i printed this file when it was the only collapsable one and it was called Katana. By now there are files that have a curved one edged blade. One day i will print it aswell. But i have an other huge project on going right now
@@Sersch194 do you mind me asking what that project is? 😁
IT has in built haki
i am using cura and idk what settings to use aside from disabling support which was originally enabled and added 4 hrs to the print time but idk what settings to use and what menus they fall under it would be super awesome if i can print this correctly from the first try as it takes 16 hrs to print and uses rather a good amount of filament currently my printer isnt here so i cant just print it with default settings since cura has the exact printer that i have i assume the general printing profile should be correct and hopefully i wont need to change anything i already selected the material to be PLA cuz thats what i am gonna use but idk i dont mind taking the time to make sure that it will print correctly rather than have it print for a long time and waste a lot of filament only for the print to fail help is very useful and it can make the difference between a good and a failed print
Hi, thanks for commenting. I answered the pinned comment with the settings i used. The creator of this model has a "Test Print" uploaded aswell. It only takes a few minutes and you can try out different settings if stuff doesnt work as it should.
Most important points are:
Z Offset on your printer
Leveled bed
Retraction
Wiping
Z Hop
Temperature
cool
Sersch, do you have a printing file for this? I want to make a similar sword, but I don’t know how to make it fly out,but stay in, do you have a 3d print file for this or something? Really appreciate the build, and great sword by the way.
Check the description :) i always give Credit to the Designer or at least put the link to the File in the Video description:)
@@Sersch194 thanks
how did urs print so colorfully all the ones i saw were single colors my printer can only use one filament color at a time but it would be so cool if it looked like a katana not one plastic piece that can fold and retract
Actually you can see in the timelapse that mine printed in pure black aswell. I just painted it afterwards. You can use acrylic paint on pla :)
Top sound...
Your goodman. 𝑮𝑹𝑬𝑨𝑻
mine always fuse and its stupid puts me off every time but i keep coming back to try again
Your creations are so cool, and your finish work is Amazing. I'm wondering about what the printer cost, and about how much the "ink" for something like this sword costs?
I ordered some cheap pla filament back then. It costed me 8€/kg. The sword is about 300g. So its pretty cheap. Add 30cent of electricity to it if you wish to. Back then the printer costed me about 200€ but today you get much better printers for that Money :)
still working on getting the test print to work so far on my test print all around top and bottom it looks spotless and it shouldnt be fused however no matter how hard I try to take the shells apart its impossible I tried a different test print of a different sword and got 2/3 to separate I cant let go of this sword as I am typing this i have a test print printing and i am hoping to make some more progress with it anyway super cool print and assuming more experienced ppl seen this i would highly recommend them to print it
This was actually one of my first prints aswell.
I would not recommend it to someone who is new to this Hobby.
Even with the experience i have now, i still think that this is a difficult Print
Hey i printed this and the sword wont unsheath any idea why?
i have a question. have you ever ran into any issues like the blades going in and making others get stuck?
If you read the comments youll see that you are Not alone with that. You need to dial in the Testprint First. I mentioned everything in several comments Here already
@@Sersch194 k
Hey man! When I click on the thingy verse link it says 404 not found! can you please update this? thanks:
How did you peel off the clumped layers?
I had only light stringing so Most of it Fell off after one use
The Rest got to deal with a Heat gun
hi , i just want to know how do you paint your 3d prints
Hi, you chose a video where I did a very bad job of colouring the 3D print 😅 If you look at my latest videos, it turned out much better.
If you print in the colour you want the figure to end up in, you can save yourself a lot of work, like with my Ninja Turtle where I only coloured a few areas and left the main body in the filament colour.
Before painting, I sand the part I want to colour. Then I apply a primer (choose one that is compatible with your paint! Car primer is NOT compatible with acrylic paint). Also use matching primer colours. For example, you will need a white primer if your colour is going to be yellow. This is because yellow is easily interrupted by a darker background. When the primer is dry, I apply the paint with a brush. I spray painted larger projects like my helmet because I didn't have to pay attention to detail. Sometimes I need 2-3 coats. When the paint is dry, I glue all the parts together and apply a clear coat. That's it.
@@Sersch194 thank you very much you just helped me alot
i am new at 3d printing and everybody is talking about primer and paint and its too complicated you just You explained it well thank you
oh and also today i printed the katana it failed like it shifted mid print i dont know why but now its a dagger 😅
Can you actually sword fight with it or it just a show piece
It is suprisingly sturdy. You can definetly do so shadow figthing with good fast Swings. But i would not try to hit Something with it.
For some reason whenever I print this, the parts connect where the seams are, and when I do the settings that you did, my print warps. Please help me 😭
Hi, let's approach the problem logically. When the parts fuse, it means that too much material remains. This means that you have to adjust your retraction settings. It could also be that your filament prints better at a different temperature than mine or that it is wetter than mine. Otherwise you can try to solve it with the coastin settings.
@@Sersch194 ok, thanks 😊
I've had the same issue, random seams made a big difference
I wonder if it’s possible to make a 3d render for this out of steel
Aye like a legit version
Who hurt you
@@MooseGoWoof wdym?
@@InsaneCinnaRoll ikr, probably fake bot profile
@@InsaneCinnaRoll why do you want it to be made of steel, that can hurt someone
Where is the curve of the katana?
How many hours?
Hey can you please print one also for me ❤
woah, how did yours print so fast?! mine took like 24 hours!
timelapse
@@Telmuun1 wdym
Bro why my katana like you have it stuck And can't log in
I had one of these. I broke it accidentally. the tip is stuck inside
i did a test print finally and had some trouble while the piece did print in 1 the 2 main issues it had was that 1) one side had some weird scaring on it and am not sure what caused and and 2) its stuck as 1 piece and i cant separate it (i was using my own settings not the ones u suggested in the vid) do u think if i use ur settings it might work better? i have a delta printer and the bed doesnt move and i am not sure why my print had a weird scar and why it doesnt work properly
Hi,
I suppose that you mean the z seam with the "scar"? That is Something that you will always have with a layer by layer 3d printing. (The layers just have to start somewhere). I usually try to hide it in sharp Corners. (Also a setting in Cura).
As for the settings:
You should not just Copy all of my settings since you have a very different printer. If all of your other prints come out fine i guess that your retraction settings are already calibrated correctly. Besides the correct retraction the most important settings for this print are: wipe distance - use 8mm just for this print. Z Offset - you dont want any elephantfoot. So you dont want to squish your First layer at all. Otherwise the shells just fuse together in the first layer. Thats mostly it. With the very high wipe distance you assure that your seam isnt that thicc and isnt fusing to the next Shell.
Probably Check If your Temperatur isnt too high for the current filament so you dont have too much stringing that is fusing the shells together
@@Sersch194 thx for the insight i tried using all ur settings exactly how they are even tho my printer is clearly not the same one u used to print ur sword on the test print what was a 17 min print became a 48 min print that failed so badly it was not funny i tried separating the fused shells from the test print but i couldnt it seems like they fused from the very beginning and my blade isnt long enough to cut all the way through visually speaking there is visible space between all the shells which ig means it didnt completely fuse together my guess since the shells look like diamond shape the fusing most likely occurred at each of the corners the file i have does not have a very clear guide on how to print the test file nor the actual thing hopefully i can get it to work because i was hoping to print the actual katana and have it finished by monday
Hmm on each corner? That kinda seems odd. Usually its just on the z seam.
I recommend watching the Troubleshooting Video of @3DPrintingWorlds.
His video helped me out a lot Back then
Can i buy it somwher
I can't get this print to work
Can I have the stl file
Any Tips on reduce the stringing between the blades
High, for this Print you have to increase wiping a lot. I had it around 8mm. You can also try to use coasting.
But you should start with wiping.
Also use the lowest temperature you can print your Filament with. And thats it. :)
@@Sersch194 I found out that my printer (the ender 3 v3) can’t print the whole katana so i just tsked the bottom and it works fine
How is durability? Can hard swing broke it?
Swings itself def. Not. But hitting something hard will break it
@@Sersch194 fun
How did you set your seam setting
Hi :)
Check the pinned comment
Pov it's your money do whatever you want to do 😂
How did you get it to work, what were the dimensions as I tried this and it just jammed
All of my settings are mentioned in the pinned comment. Most important setting for me was the wipe distance. But its totally individual. I Had to print about 8 Test prints that come with model. But they take very little time and filament so it was okay
@@Sersch194 background music name
Can you put the link for the katana in the comments
Please
Just Check the description Mate.
Ok thanks so much
Where do you get that base plate the ine in the box sucks?
hi, sorry for the late answer. Well i just typed "pei sheet 235x235mm" on amazon and bought the cheapest one :)
@@Sersch194 ok thanks that helps a lot
Pls info settings
Already mentioned in the pinned comment :)
Just wrong name…that’s not katana. Katana means single edge blade. Not dual edge. Just a sword with hilt as katana style
You are absolutely right. But its the name of the stl File and it triggers me aswell that it only is 50% correct. By now there are some models that have actual katana Style Blades. I will print one of those in the future but for now i am printing some other stuff :).
File?
Stl?
Hi,
I always put the links or the thingy number in the description :)
Pls bro 🙏 can you send link I can download the file help me to have save sword 🗡
Onde compro
can you give me this 3d model for printing?
Check the description
@@Sersch194 thx
3d model?
I Always put the links to the Files into the description :)
How long is it
Sorry for the delayed answer! I just measured it. The whole sword is 82cm long. The blade alone is about 60cm.
Hello i like it, i have the same print but I'm failing, what settings did you use?
Hi, i already wrote my detailed settings as an answer to the pinned comment from @FixR. Have a look there and if anything is missing feel free to ask. :)
Can I get design pls
Check the description
Ninjato and why is the tips not like a ninjatos .....asking for a friend 😂😂😂😂😂
почему никто не может оставить файл?(
или ссылку чтоб скачать
Вы можете найти файл в описании на thingiverse
Можно купить?
I did the same print and it won't come out and I have the same printer
it has less to do with the printer and more with the settings for slicing. Make sure to get the testprint perfect before trying to print the whole sword. I also have posted my settings in the pinned comment :).
For most people its often a not properly set z offset, not enough wiping, and eventualy not well calibrated retraction settings.
La katana la imagine un poco curva
Where's the gold from?
I painted it, like everything i print. You can easily use acrylic paint on pla :)
@@Sersch194 i wish i could paint 😆
Haha i am very bad at it aswell 😂. But most models have structures in the model itself that are supposed to be a different color or a Highlight. Therefore its mostly just following the lines that are already there. And because its pastic and not something that soaks up the paint, you always can just wipe the paint off if you dont let it dry. Even when dried you can scratch the paint away with something like a toothpick for detailing. Just try it out 😄
@Sersch I'll give it a go, but my wife has literally made fun of my lack of artistic skill 😆
Gcode please
i modified my printer quite a lot. i dont think you should use my printers gcode for your own one ^^
What do you have your seams set to pls I’ve been so desperate lol
hi buddy, sorry for the delayed answer. Had some work to do. Anyway, just make sure to check the pinned comment. l listed my whole settings in my answer there :)
@@Sersch194 ah thank you but I’ve already starting printing but thank you so much
Move won’t move smoothly
It's not a katana, it's a straight sword
Don't colour it in
IT'S NOT FULL TANG 😭😭😭😡😡🤬🤬👹👹👹👹🧐😭😭😡🤡
Stl file
Description...
Me da uma katana que eu te 100000 R$
Ou te dou do mihalk
Don't show this to any Japanese Sword Maker... He Will Die Laughing 😂
Not a katana. Thats a ninjas sword. Katanas are samurai swords that are curved. We aprecieate you making these cool swords and rods but i advise you should study up a bit on sword types and names to stop insulting the art
Hi, i know all of that. Especially after a bunch of comments like yours. The Video is called like the File on thingiverse was called so people could find it.
At the time i printed the sword there were no curved stile stls.
Can i buy it