Collapsing Swords - Troubleshooting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2019
- I have been getting a lot of the same questions so here are some tips on how to get better results when printing my collapsing swords.
You can find the STL's on my thingiverse:
www.thingiverse.com/3DPRINTIN...
Broadsword STL:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:359...
Pirate Sword STL:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:359...
Katana:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:363...
Lightsaber (print in place):
www.thingiverse.com/thing:360...
Lightsaber (removeable blade):
www.thingiverse.com/thing:360...
Darth Vader's Lightsaber:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:366...
Find me here:
Instagram: / dddprintingworld
Facebook: / dddprintingworld
Twitter: / dddpworld
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I saw this on thingiverse hope this helps for people using Cura
Slicer - Cura 4.6
Nozzle - .4MM
Layer Height - 0.2mm
Line Width - 0.44mm
Wall Line Count - 2
Print Thin Walls check
Outer Wall Wipe Distance - 0.8mm
Retraction - 7mm @ 45mm/s
Cooling @ 100%
Coasting Volume - 0.004mm3 - If I try 0.064mm3 I get blank spaces. It's as if the printer doesn't finish printing the whole circumference of each cirlcle.
Minimum Volume before coasting - 0.8mm3
Thank you so much!!
Ayo these setting work great for the vyper, many thanks!
These settings worked perfectly with my S1 (Cura 4.8), thank you!
I tried these with Cara 4.12 and the bottom was fused. Does anyone have tips on what to change for Cure 4.12 on an Ender 3 v2?
Thanks so much for creating these and uploading them for free along with this video! Exactly the kind of spirit we need more of in the world. These are going to be some of my first prints, and my first remix for sure!
RIP headphones users
A problem a lot of youtube channels have, voice soft, music blasting loud.
Loudness Equalization in Windows 10 and your ears are safe :)
@@drvectorio Doesnt fix the problem though, or else most people wouldnt even have these problems
If you think that intro is bad, you should play a creality after sale video
Tip for Cura 4.8 if you're getting solid bottoms on the vase mode (Cura calls it "Spiralize Outer Contour") models. In the Special Modes section, change Surface Mode from Normal to Surface.
Thanks so much I was searching on google for ages could not figure out why :)
I'm having trouble with the saber wen I printed it that blade gets stuck and cant separate it help
@@coolmangame-gi8hq Same
I just set bottom layers to 0
Holy jiggly puff you solved my problem since the bottom had a plate on it and it was easy to slide out and now I know why. Again that you
Omg tysm I’ve been searching all over the internet for these answers and your the only person to help ke
Thank you for the video! super helpful for some of us coming in later but still having some place to go to learn more about 3d printing and troubleshooting. Also thank you for the sword designs! Much love
So much good info! Can’t wait to try printing this dagger again, this time with the OG designer’s tips!
HA HA! For some reason I found the dagger to be the hardest one. Good luck!
Hot damn! This is exactly the video i needed. After seeing your swords...clearly I have some dialing in todo.
From your video, it looked like your setting were on point!
BIg youtuber helping small one lol
I messed that up
Firstly I would like to thank you for designing these swards and making them free and I am glad I found this video as I'm having some issues printing the blade but I think I found all the answers in your video so thanks again 👍
Thank you for all this work! It's so neat.
Tip if your tests are fusing at the seams.
Im using Orcaslicer and for me it was "Travel distance threshold" being set to 1mm, that being greater than the distance between the pieces meant it wasnt retracting filament at all when moving between parts. Setting this to 0 fixed it for me.
In Orcaslicer its in printer settings under the extruder tab.
Hope this helps anyone troubleshooting this problem.
Thank you for pointing this out. I have been trying to get this to work for a week, checked my travel distance and it was set to 2mm. Changed it to 0 and even with all seams aligned in back it works.
Great tips for configuring slicer settings in general! Thanks for the awesome models!
Thank you. This will help me solve my blade issues.
Good luck, hope it helps!
2023, and I misss this gem!
you rock mate! well done! thanks for sharing!
To everyone that has been able to print these correctly hats off to you!! I been trying a whole week an cant not print the blades at all, only have got the 5th one to print right an the other just fall threw! Think ima give up lol
First print in place version failed on my Ender 3 (no surprises there), got to about 70-80% done due to some kind of “power outage”. Reprinting in vase mode pieces instead this time.
Having issue figuring out the coast and wipe settings. I've printed 3 katanas and they've all fused. The first one being the best of them. Plus I'm getting gaps when printing the round blade for light sabre
This is awesome!
Keep up the great work!
I have tried turning the coasting on and it still prints it with the walls together. Do you know how to fix this?
Printer: Ender 3 V2
Slicer: Cura
John, we are new to 3D printing. Theses swords are definitely going to be something we try. My boys would love to see these as links master sword! Internet please make this happen!
Most requested sword but the issue is the blade on the mastersword is so much wider then the hilt. 😥
@@3DPrintingWorlds ahh, I see the issue that causes. Thanks for the reply. We really enjoy your videos. Have a great weekend,
Dan
I might be really late to the party, but here's a tip for people struggling to get it to print with Cura. Cura's default is "Combing Mode" = "Not in Skin". This results in a blob on the end of the path that will be there no matter how hard you play with retraction, wipe or coasting. Everything else will start to help once you set it to "Off".
I also print with a 0.6mm CHT Nozzle and found it to be crucial to print the blade in two walls that are 0.44mm thick. So set your line width accordingly. The reason for this is that the travels usually go over one already printed wall so it wipes some excess filament on the already printed one. Which helps with the seams not sticking together.
what do you mean print the blades in two walls that are 0.44mm thick
@@seoungbinjun5493 Check the "Line Width" in Cura. It should be set to 0.44mm.
@@eduardkosel8726 will these steps fix my fusing problems?
@@seoungbinjun5493 it helped me. If your rings are fusing together turning off combing is the first step. If this already improves your print you can try to tune the other parameters suggested in the video.
@@eduardkosel8726 I'm sorry the video was confusing for me but turning on wipe and coasting is going to help it right?
lots of great information , would to see a walk through of your settings in cura if possible
Sorry, I'm not using cura.
My blades printed just fine but when I fling the blade out most of the time it gets stuck and doesn't want to go back in without force. Any ideas?
When I print the Katana it won’t extend should I try to pull I out?
Do you keep "Perform retraction during wipe movement" (in S3D advanced tab) checked? Also in the video, it looks like you changed the Start points from aligned in the fused test to random in the good test, is that correct? Thanks so much for this video, I've been trying to get this to work for a while now.
Nope, I dont have it checked. I had start points "optimized for speed" for both, but when you turn on wipe it changes the start point. Good luck!
I swung by because I'm having issues with bed adhesion for the blades. I'm new to FDM printing so I'm probably just making a basic mistake. I may simply need to re-level, but I'm seeing what results I get with a raft. I got a successful print with a brim, but I haven't (yet) been able to pull a section of blade from the handle.
With the trimming, a brim or raft is not ideal. You really need good adhesion. Whats your print surface?
@@3DPrintingWorlds The bed is some kind of ultrabase kock-off. Upping the bed temp may have done the trick, though. I'm currently working through a different, easier, print that also had adhesion issues. Thanks for the reply! Hoping I don't have to resort to glue stick just yet.
Great stuff!!
How do I strengthen the blade? I tried to collapse it by pushing the katana up to my pants and the top blade bent lol.
mine just stayed in the handle, i used an ender 3 i think. Is there a way to get the blade out?
I think you are awesome and a genius man! Does the printer next to you work?
Ha! Of course it works! th-cam.com/video/Ob4yieqQDis/w-d-xo.html
Great job!
Noob question when i load the single blade files in cura it shows it as a filled object. What do you need to do to make it hollow etc so it can slide within the others?
Turn on spiral or vase mode and turn off top and bottom layers.
Can someone help? I keep having issues of fusing together with test print and full prints. Can anyone give me their Cura Profile setting to get this to work?
anyway you can send me the setting in simplify3d I keep getting the ring fused together
Can you please add some print settings for Cura? I have done test prints, but even with coast and wipe they fuse together and are almost impossible to get apart. The help would really be appreciated because I think these are amazing toys and look very cool!
Yeet Boi sorry don’t use cura. Someone posted a profile on Reddit a long time ago.
@@3DPrintingWorlds Ok thanks! I can try it on slicer or something else!
Lower your flow rate. Print at .02
@@dugy40 what setting do you change to .02
@@Braydenstremel resolution
I am wondering if I were to enlarge your design like ie: 0.2 percent would that cause me issues and help it print a little bit easier?
I've learned a lot of tricks since making this, I need to make a updated video.
Personally, I would print them separately in vase mode. stronger and better results.
Check my thangs, that is where I post new designs. I have most with removeable blades now.
For some reason, the when I slice the katana .stl, it only has the centermost blade unit (along with the hilt) on layer 1. The other diamond-shaped concentric blade units don't start until layer 2. This seems like a guaranteed fail for adhesion. User error? Or has someone else experienced this? Tried both Cura 4.6 and 4.8. The katana test piece came out great when I printed it.
Hmmm. I don't know what is going on, I don't experience this issue. Can you try just moving it down slightly?
same
What 3D printer do you use. We have for our kids the toybox 3d printer
Please consider the possibility to make Ashoka's lightsaber. For now, thank you for the files
That would make for a good one. I hope to get back to making more soon.
Whenever I try to print the lightsaber blade as one the bottom 3 parts print fine but the top 2 get fused together but when I print those 2 separately they just fall through each other, any ideas on how to fix it?
Increase your line width to get the right fit.
Trying to print the Collapsible Master Sword, using Super Slic3r. It won't allow me to pint blade 1 in vase mode with a solid top layer. Is there a work around or way to get this done? Thanks.
Sorry I'm not sure, I dont use Super slicer. Its not a problem in PS or S3D.
My issue is even with wipe and coast enabled is that it continues fusing. When it jumps from one section of the blade to an inner section, it leaves that little bridge between them. I'm new to this, so please bear with me. What am I doing wrong?
I would keep the temperature as low as possible and increase your retraction setting until the stringing is gone. I can tell when my coast and wipe are too high as I get a void at layer transitions.
I’m a week in 3D printer knowledge and I’ve done the test print twice but the pieces just slide off each other, like fall apart, any tips?
That's actually what you want to happen! If the parts stick together then you have issues. You should be good to print the full sword.
Please can I have the link to the test print thing that makes sure you have the right settings?
Check me out on thangs, I have it here.
ive printed about 10 test prints all with coast and wipe on and each with different settings on cura and I cant seem to get it right. Any tips?
probably means your printer isn't setup well. he didn't cover the basics, this is about when you're printing usually perfectly but this isn't working, then coast and wipe might be it, but otherwise, you may not have a well setup printer, at that point it can be to much to cover, it could be extrusion, or many many other things tbh. PID, linear advance, travel speed, extrusion, bed leveling, z-offset, filament, tempatures, just to name some of the basic
awesome man thanks!
Thanks for the info. For some reason when I turn on coast and wipe i get a lot of messy stuff on the outside of the print.
Like stringing, maybe retraction settings?
yes it looks like stringing almost like the oozing being wiped off the nozzle when it wipes. So retraction would be a great place to start. Also the flow rate I want to tweak because I haven't changed that yet .
@@jerryp1012 Here's a good guide. mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/
is possible to get the katana sword like the light saber i want the blade to be different color
In a modeling program you could remove the "pommel" plate and set the blade outside and then 3D print the plate on its own and glue it on after you put the blade in.
What do you mean by the extrusion multiplier .96%?
whats close and wipe in purse called sorry new to 3d printing
Could you make the lightsaber katana from star wars visions
Haven't watched it yet, soon....
i love your models
Thanks!
Can you let us know how to dial in the settings to make this work, I've printed one and yes my sword didn't extend that well at the end so I'd like to get it better please.
Its normally about your flow rate/extrusion multiplier to get them to extend the correct amount.
You're amazing!
when I print the blade, it prints, and after about 1/3 to 1/2 way then the blade for Darth Vaders Saber moves out of its position, and the rest of the blade tries to print on the side. Do you have a solution?
Sorry for the delay, Sounds like a bed adhesion issue.
Has anyone managed to fit a LED in the bottom of the lightsaber to make it light up? Wondering what to use for that
Yes I have seen a few, there might be some remixes on thingiverse.
Very cool!
Having a hard time printing the saber with the detachable hilt. What print speed do you have this at? Also i'm experiencing a beading inside each vase. Not sure what to do about this.
Slicing with cura 4.5
Line Width: .8mm
Wall line count: 1
Print Speed: 50 mm/s
Outer Wall Speed: 20 mm/s
Travel Speed: 50 mm/s
Acceleration Control: Activated
Jerk Control: Enabled
Enable Retraction: On
Retract at Layer Change: On
Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.6mm
Combing Mode: All
Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling: On
any tips, appreciate the creations btw
You are printing them singly, in vase mode right?
@@3DPrintingWorlds Correct
@@mindsofgreatness I dont understand why you are getting a bead if there are no layer transitions.
@@3DPrintingWorlds Looks like an inside seam, what settings have you adjusted for best results?
.8 for the line width anything else?
@@mindsofgreatness Really .84mm. When you preview in your slicer does it go around in a spiral? There should not be a seam.
thanks mate
Has anyone successfully printed this with the Monoprice Voxel? I don't see any coast/wipe settings using Flashprint.
Try using a different slicer
could you teach more about coast and wipe?? many thx
Every printer is different so the best thing to do is to make a test file and just play around with the numbers and note the results. I included a test file with each of the swords. I tried different setting until I got the best result.
Dang, is there any way we can get the lightsaber blade model 200mm high? My printer is just barely too small! :(
You could try just scaling the z a little.
i need the configuration from cura to ender 3 pro, whit PLA plis D:
How do I get arid on the bottom layer for pursa spicer
If you cant turn it off, you can always flip it over. The tip of the blade can be solid on both ends, it wont hurt anything.
When I try to print the sith lightsaber the hilt always falls over do you have any ideas of whats happening one second its stuck onto the bed and another second its moved a couple centameters then it eventually falls over
Strange, could you try a brim?
I recently switched from using painters tape to just giving my print bed a layer of Prit stick glue and I’ve had really really good adhesion since! Just make sure to turn off your printer and keep any water away from electronics when wiping down the bed afterwards!
Anyone know the configure for Zotrax printer?
I have printed the interchangeable sword about 6 times now in vase mode and they will not catch they are "too big" and fall through each other and don't fit together. I have .4mm nozzle, using petg, I had the wall thickness to .8mm and flow to 110% and it does nothing, please HELP I'm losing my mind
Just increase your wall thickness until the catch. .8 is not enough. It should be .85 according to the math but I’ve been having better luck at .94 lately.
Since my 3D printer can only print models up to 180.2 mm tall, can I make the collapsing katana one millimetre shorter in the slicing software? Or the segments stick together?
Sure, It would work best if you only scale the Z. That way the wall thickness stay 2 wall thick.
@@3DPrintingWorlds thanks. Hope it works this time.
@@3DPrintingWorlds This still does not work. Can I make the size bigger than the original model size and use my Anycubic Mega S?
Hey I'm really having trouble with the katana. I've printed 3 they've all failed I'm pretty sure its bc the seam when the next one prints it fuses at the seam any idea what to do? Do u have a cura profile specifically for these?
I have good luck with negative extra restart distance but i'm not sure if Cura has it. It depends if the blob is caused by the start or end of the seam.
Hey, could you send me the Gcode for the pirate sword (extended)? If possible...
Sorry but you would need different gcode depending on the type of printer that you have.
What was coast/wipe set to? Dunno how to test mine.. it's sticking to itself as well
I depends on the printer. I would download the test print and try different settings.
These are amazing prints, I only wish I had your settings, My lightsaber blade fused together. The dagger came out pretty good
That's odd, I thought the dagger was the hardest one to print.
@@3DPrintingWorlds I printed the lightsaber three times the blade keeps fusing...I will try to print it individually
@@byronkobialko3442 Print them in vase mode, much easier print just a little more work.
@@3DPrintingWorlds So I tried different settings that still fused by was able to work the pieces apart..So win-win and it looks great. Thank you for your assistance, great design, I use PETG.
@@3DPrintingWorlds I also printed the dagger it came out wonderful I stayed alway from the swords since they seemed harder to print
I use prusaslicer, and when I print the blade I can’t seem to get the segments to “hook” on to eachother, any recommendations for settings?
When I had this issue I increased my extrusion multiplier by a few percent.
@@3DPrintingWorlds I will fine tune the setting then, thank you
anyone with a neptune 3 what works best for you
i printed the test piece it took 20 mins it came out in 1 piece 1 side have some weird scaring and it doesnt expand help
Is it your layer seam? I would set it to inline and use retraction setting to get it as small as possible. Check out the print setting page on my website. I also have a FB group were you can post pictures.
Hello, great job! ...Collapsing Jian (Print in Place) link does not work, it can n ot be downloaded from Thingiverse. Where also can I download stl??
Try downloading the file individual in the file section. That link works.
I’m newer to printing but I’ve tried so many things and I still can’t get the test print to work.
I would print some other things and come back to it later. Maybe the problem will works its self out.
i use prusaslicer and there is no coast in it. is there anyway to get it to work with prusaslicer or am i kinda just sol
No, plenty of people have printed it with prusa slicer. Have you tried without coast ? Each slicer act differently so coast may not be needed in PS. You can try the test print first.
if I try to print the individual blade tube has a bottom lair ? how can you insert the next tube ? , sorry , thank you for al your support
When you print them in vase mode individually make sure you turn off top and bottom layers.
@@3DPrintingWorlds thank you
im on my 3rd attempt at the light sabre blade...... test prints fine..... but my model keeps getting knocked over late in the print. I even upped the bed temp to like 67 or something quite high
any ideas as to why? im trying again using a raft to try to hold it down a bit better
Sound like two issues. Bed adhesion and cooling. It must be curling up causing your nozzle to knock it off. Can you increase cooling, lower extruder temp maybe.
enable Z-hop thats how i did it
Where can I find the STL for just the blade pieces so I could print them separately? Really appreciate your work by the way, awesome stuff.
Check me out on thangs, I have a bunch of new stuff there.
@@3DPrintingWorlds are the blades interchangeable as long as I print the right width. I used the separate blade pieces from collapsing light Saber on the sith version.
Can we get link for print retractable sword slith separate. So it doesn't get stuck. I can't find it.
please I need your help , I have made 9 fail prints for the blade , I an using Prusa slicer can't manage to get a free blade I am very very close but for some reason can't get it to print ok , do you have settings for Prusa ? thank you very much for your help and support much appreciated,
Sorry for the late response, I hope you got it working.
These are amazing. What are the chances you'd be interested in replicating the Taskmaster sword from the upcoming Black Widow movie? From the latest trailer it appears it collapses... Would love to see you make that bad boy!!
Good suggestion!
I printed my first last night without doing a test. I know....... it wouldn't separate and when i tapped it, it broke in two. Thanks for the video. Is there a way to ensure it is not so brittle?
They blades are not real strong but they should not break that easy. Its hard to tell the issue but it sounds like the layer lines are not adhering very well. Maybe turn the heat up? Assuming this is not a silk or matte, they are very weak.
I have a problem, I printed a jedi sword all in one, and when I moved it out from the 3d printer, all of the inside pieces fell to the floor. What can I do to avoid it? Thank you!
Sounds like a bed adhesion issue. What surface are you using? I like a smooth PEI, and clean it often.
@@3DPrintingWorlds I'm using the basic that came with Voxelab Aquila X3
Hey, if I had my own collapsible blade that I would like to put into your lightsaber hilt and the diameter of the bottom section is 20 mm, what should be my clearance to ensure the blade wont fall out? Thanks
Its more complicated then that because the blade in on a angle. I would suggest downloading the "template" file I made and using that for reference.
Hello,
I just watched the video.
In the video, you talk about wipe and coast.
However, I can't find these options on my slicer.
I'm currently using Prusaslicer with my Prusa I3 MK3.
Can you help me please ?
Your opens in prusa slicer is the "wipe while retracting" and "retract amount before wipe"
@@3DPrintingWorlds OK thank you so much. I will try tomorrow.
hi ! what do you mean about "Coasting Volume" in CURA ? thx
Coast is the distance it stop extruding before getting to the retraction point.
I'm having a terrible time dialing in my printer to get the blade from fusing together using cura 2.7 wall thickness 0.8, outer wall wipe distance 0.2, top/bottom thickness 0,Z seam alignment random, layer height 0.2 , initial layer height 0.3, infill 0, nozzle 205 bed 60 flow 92%,speed 60 cooling 100% after first layer, coasting 0.064,before coasting 0.3 coasting speed 90, and i have tried adjusting these settings 12 times with the same results test print still fuses together is there a setting that i'm not using that needs to be turned on? i watch the video prob 15 times and i still cant seem to get a good print hoping someone sees this post and can shed some light on the issue thanks BTY great job on your models
What is your actual blade thickness when you measure it?
.02 not .08
Are the swords compatible with the monoprice v2 mini select?
I dont have any that small.... Time to get a bigger printer!
My center blades are coming loose from bed. I printed perfect test prints. Printed a sword successfully. Printing another now and can see the blades moving (not adhered to bed) will let you know in 3 hours if it’s a fail.
Check me out on thangs, I only post new stuff there. Many of my swords now have a removable blades. Its easier and stronger to print in vase mode and insert.
Hey there just wondering, i did the test print 3 times and worked fine each time, but ive tried printing the Print in place drill sword 2 times and the spear 3 and the blades still dont come out of the handles, i use the ender 3 v3 SE and the creality slicer, how can i fix this as i cant seem to find the settings for it?? any help would be amazing
You need to adjust retraction settings.
Should I use support or no I had it on for the first time I tried printing but it didn’t turn out to well?
Nope.
@@skulleater4 thanks
I tried printing the sword part in separate pieces since my test print didn't work and they are solid on the top and bottom. Am I doing something wrong? Because aren't they supposed to be hollow with a taper, not solid on top and bottom. Except for the last piece I would expect to have a solid top. I'm using a Lulzbot mini and Cura to print. I adjusted the Flow rate to 92% but that didn't seem to do any better. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I can print this for my brother asap
Oh, the separated pieces are meant to be printed in vase mode. Just make sure your extrusion width is set to .85mm
@@3DPrintingWorlds How would one enable vase mode?
@@tristensantilli2437 Its normally called "Vase" or "spiral" mode, depending on your slicer.
@@3DPrintingWorlds That's a great tip - does it imply a 0.8mm nozzle? I only have .4 and .6
@@AdiTanase You can actually extrude wider then the nozzle, no problem There is a limit but I cant remember what its is but you can go .85 will a .4mm nozzle no problem.
FYI...You can not make a line width narrower then the nozzle.
What interior fill percentage is everyone using for this? 20%?
That should be fine.
Thanks for the help but could you make a cura profile? because no matter what i do i cant get it right
If you look through the comments of the lightsabers on thiniverse you will find a cura profile someone linked.
@@3DPrintingWorlds thanks you
@@3DPrintingWorlds but i cant open it with cura
@@3DPrintingWorlds could you make cura profile and sorry for all the quotations i just tried somthing like 20 times
Nevermind
i printed the katana and it snaped in the first 5 minutes do you know how i can fix this
Yep I did and proud of it! 🤣
What are the percentage of the blades, like what are the blade settings?
Two walls, .43mm line width.