A big personal thank you Dean. Over the past year with your help, my Makita power tool collection has grown massively by buying cheap spares or repair tools & repairing them myself. I've even sold the odd one for a small profit. Thanks again.
The wobbly recip saw at 32:50: Blade manufacturers, for some years now (3-4), have started thinning the blades. Nothing wrong with the tool holder. I only found this out because of buying 2 packs of blades (by chance), one from old batch, one from new. The new ones kept snapping at the tool-holder. Didn't know why, until calipers were used.
I guess the tinner blades are meant for light duty cordless recip saws since a thin blade takes away less material then a larger blade and thats more efficient. Thats also why the blades for cordless cicrular saws are really thin like 1,5mm or so takes less effort from the motor to do the cut.
@alouisschafer7212 No. Both packs were normal; not 1thin kerf and 1normal. Same package, same printing on the blade, from the same shelf. Just by chance difference in batch / production date. Consistent difference at the "tang" between the two. At that time i thought I've lost it, even searched on YT. It was a thing. Edit: I don't regularly use, so i haven't rechecked or stayed up to date :)) Nor am i tool reviewer. Edit2: Had to underline this. Measured at the "tang" connection point. That should have been a Standard thickness, even between manufacturers, especially for the same one. Plus the tang never impacts cutting in a recip, being buried in the tool.
Those Milwaukee drills are beasts .they will hog out 2-1/2" holes in wood with ease . the cords are the weak point , but easily replaced ( in North America) . they are arm breakers if you're not careful . You always run them so if they grab they twist away from you, not in to you .that quick connect on the cord is designed to pull apart if it jambs & the cord starts to wind up . I have 2 of them that are seldom used anymore.
Thank you for that video. It's always great to have your videos running in the background while I work away. Also for superglue stains on your fingers I usually use a piece of 180 grit sand paper and lightly rub over it with the part of the finger I want to have clean. Obviously being careful with the nails when you do that.
For that obsolete cable in milwaukee drill, if bypassing ground isn't a problem for user, use remaining two good cables for live and neutral, match the same setup inside the drill too. Use this trick for your own tool only.
Not the usual 'run of the mill' repairs but very interesting none the less. I suppose the lesson to be learned with the recip' saw is: look carefully before you go steaming into any repair - you might save a lot of time and effort. Thanks Dean, a nice varied assortment today.
That chap who owns the dewalt recip saw was probably cutting off screws in somthing with the saw pointing straight up, Judjing by the metal cutting blade on it too.. Ive had that happen to be multiple times where a screw would fall onto the saw while cutting overhead.. Can see how one easily fell into the tool holder.. ill have to rember that now going forward, somthing can happen other than screws just bouncing off the top of the tool..ill angle the saw in or out when the screw is about to fall in future..
If you've got any tools that are in constant contact with dust then I suggest buying even the smallest compressor on the market to blow them out after use
My Dear Brother Dean, the angle drill you repaired last. Where would that be used ? I would have permanently attached that cord. That plug into that tool seemed flimsy. That Hikoki nail gun was cheaper fix than if if had to replace the entire slide mechanism as on other brands. Another good job, my friend. More learning entered my brain thanks to you. 🇨🇮🇺🇸💪👍
you do in brushless machines because they already have a controller. but in brushed machines they are directly wired so you’d need a controller also or a high current over temp disconnect both add cost that you sent willing to pay for and both add more to fail
Some do. My Makita HP2071 1000W drill has a temperature sensor on the field winding. I bought it from a fella for 20€ with a MakPac along with it so good deal just had to fix the drill up since he managed to completely burn out the motor regardless of the build in protection, probably just let it cool down enought and kept going over and over.
On that first Makita wall chaser you would expect to need a 1200-1500W motor to drive two cutting disks that size. Unless, as you suggested they were geared down to a slower speed.
Even with a 1500 watt some tool like concrete grinders and similars it still heat up really quickly and really high, I have use some in construction and after using for 30 min the gearbox was super hot
They use the same kind of spring clutch on Electric Golf Trolley wheels - and they are constant source of failure - requiring a complete new wheel assembly.
Tell you what, why don't you do a show, or segment of one giving your opinion on which are the best tool for each job, be interesting, and might save some people a few bob in the long run.
Hi Dean. I dig your show. I have a large collection of dewalt 20 volt cordless power tools many of which are brushless. So I especially enjoy the dewalt repairs. My strimmers are the only machines I have problems with. (We call them weed eaters here in the states) Model DCST922 and I use them regularly for my lawn and tree business. They tend to stop working after about 3 or 4 months. I have not checked the circuitry or looked for fuses or anything like that only torn down the head to remove all the grass and debris that gets caught in the cooling fan area. (heat problem maybe?) Off the top of your head, what do you think the problem is? They are brushless. I'm absolutely positive the problem is not mechanical, Duh... but electrical. What / where should I test for in the electrical system? Thanks.
Can you imagine the chaos if ( when?) an EMP bomb goes off and all power tools get fried? Going back to hand tools would totally suck. Mind you, there’d be bigger problems than fried tools to deal with,..Just sayin,
The Makita drywall gun is absolute junk, don’t rate it at all, I have the dewalt gun and it’s miles better, mine is 3yr old and use it all day everyday not an issue
Love your work - just curious as I’m not in the trade but is there a site or software where you can get expanded schematics- I’ve a table saw (Hyundai) but the schematics are terrible online - is there anything youd recommend?
A big personal thank you Dean.
Over the past year with your help, my Makita power tool collection has grown massively by buying cheap spares or repair tools & repairing them myself.
I've even sold the odd one for a small profit.
Thanks again.
The wobbly recip saw at 32:50:
Blade manufacturers, for some years now (3-4), have started thinning the blades. Nothing wrong with the tool holder.
I only found this out because of buying 2 packs of blades (by chance), one from old batch, one from new. The new ones kept snapping at the tool-holder. Didn't know why, until calipers were used.
I guess the tinner blades are meant for light duty cordless recip saws since a thin blade takes away less material then a larger blade and thats more efficient.
Thats also why the blades for cordless cicrular saws are really thin like 1,5mm or so takes less effort from the motor to do the cut.
@alouisschafer7212 No. Both packs were normal; not 1thin kerf and 1normal. Same package, same printing on the blade, from the same shelf. Just by chance difference in batch / production date.
Consistent difference at the "tang" between the two.
At that time i thought I've lost it, even searched on YT. It was a thing.
Edit: I don't regularly use, so i haven't rechecked or stayed up to date :)) Nor am i tool reviewer.
Edit2: Had to underline this. Measured at the "tang" connection point. That should have been a Standard thickness, even between manufacturers, especially for the same one. Plus the tang never impacts cutting in a recip, being buried in the tool.
That older milwaukee looks like they use to build pure quality tools.
Clou word: used to.
Yes they was really heavy duty.
They used to be owned by Swedish company , Atlas Copco, who made great breakers and sds hammers,
A thought Bosch & Hilti invented the SDS system
@@fredholmes6284 hilti is in another league bro. Its like the blue blood of tools
Those Milwaukee drills are beasts .they will hog out 2-1/2" holes in wood with ease . the cords are the weak point , but easily replaced ( in North America) . they are arm breakers if you're not careful . You always run them so if they grab they twist away from you, not in to you .that quick connect on the cord is designed to pull apart if it jambs & the cord starts to wind up . I have 2 of them that are seldom used anymore.
The mystery cylinder pin for the Milwaukee is an anvil for removing the chuck. Stick it in where the chuck key goes and hit it with a hammer.
Thank you for that video. It's always great to have your videos running in the background while I work away. Also for superglue stains on your fingers I usually use a piece of 180 grit sand paper and lightly rub over it with the part of the finger I want to have clean. Obviously being careful with the nails when you do that.
Acetone dissolves superglue rapidly but 40 grit sandpaper on a belt sander, full whack, sounds a lot much more funnerer.
It's very interesting that the tool quality and tools themselves differs so much depending on where you live. I love seeing how other people do things
For that obsolete cable in milwaukee drill, if bypassing ground isn't a problem for user, use remaining two good cables for live and neutral, match the same setup inside the drill too. Use this trick for your own tool only.
unwise to disable the ground on a metal cased tool
@johnmolnar2957 you're right, it is unwise, unless it is your own tool, you know what you're doing and replacement isn't available.
That drill has a lot of exposed metal. I predict a violent physics lesson in the person's future who chooses to bypass the ground...
Not the usual 'run of the mill' repairs but very interesting none the less. I suppose the lesson to be learned with the recip' saw is: look carefully before you go steaming into any repair - you might save a lot of time and effort. Thanks Dean, a nice varied assortment today.
I had to look up wall chaser. I get it now. Never heard of such a device
I thought a “ wall chaser “ was an escaping burglar.
Ya not wrong about the Metabo wall chaser, mine is 30 years young and still cooking them walls.
That chap who owns the dewalt recip saw was probably cutting off screws in somthing with the saw pointing straight up, Judjing by the metal cutting blade on it too.. Ive had that happen to be multiple times where a screw would fall onto the saw while cutting overhead.. Can see how one easily fell into the tool holder.. ill have to rember that now going forward, somthing can happen other than screws just bouncing off the top of the tool..ill angle the saw in or out when the screw is about to fall in future..
If you've got any tools that are in constant contact with dust then I suggest buying even the smallest compressor on the market to blow them out after use
My Dear Brother Dean, the angle drill you repaired last. Where would that be used ?
I would have permanently attached that cord. That plug into that tool seemed flimsy.
That Hikoki nail gun was cheaper fix than if if had to replace the entire slide mechanism as on other brands.
Another good job, my friend. More learning entered my brain thanks to you. 🇨🇮🇺🇸💪👍
Good video 👍
Why don’t hand tools have better overload/overheat protection? It’s pretty common motors in larger equipment isn’t it?
you do in brushless machines because they already have a controller. but in brushed machines they are directly wired so you’d need a controller also or a high current over temp disconnect both add cost that you sent willing to pay for and both add more to fail
makita 5091x01 there is overload protection
Some do.
My Makita HP2071 1000W drill has a temperature sensor on the field winding.
I bought it from a fella for 20€ with a MakPac along with it so good deal just had to fix the drill up since he managed to completely burn out the motor regardless of the build in protection, probably just let it cool down enought and kept going over and over.
How many breaks is TH-cam putting in now spoiling the enjoyment of Deans great work.
Get yourself clued-up on adblocker = problem sorted.
Hi! What happens to the tools that are not worth fixing? Do the customers leave it with you for spares?
On that first Makita wall chaser you would expect to need a 1200-1500W motor to drive two cutting disks that size. Unless, as you suggested they were geared down to a slower speed.
Even with a 1500 watt some tool like concrete grinders and similars it still heat up really quickly and really high, I have use some in construction and after using for 30 min the gearbox was super hot
They use the same kind of spring clutch on Electric Golf Trolley wheels - and they are constant source of failure - requiring a complete new wheel assembly.
Dean, why don't you guys set up an online shop selling power tools?
Tell you what, why don't you do a show, or segment of one giving your opinion on which are the best tool for each job, be interesting, and might save some people a few bob in the long run.
There's just one problem with that he works for a man who sells a wide variety of tools and he doesn't want to get himself in trouble
I know I'm a screwed up yankee but I picture Dean as Phil Collins although I should maybe picture Conor McGregor.😅
I thought a “ wall chaser” was an escaping burglar . 😳😀
Do you ever get any bosch 1617 routers for repair? I'd like to see a teardown and repair. I haven't seen one before.
Hi Dean. I dig your show. I have a large collection of dewalt 20 volt cordless power tools many of which are brushless. So I especially enjoy the dewalt repairs. My strimmers are the only machines I have problems with. (We call them weed eaters here in the states) Model DCST922 and I use them regularly for my lawn and tree business. They tend to stop working after about 3 or 4 months. I have not checked the circuitry or looked for fuses or anything like that only torn down the head to remove all the grass and debris that gets caught in the cooling fan area. (heat problem maybe?) Off the top of your head, what do you think the problem is? They are brushless. I'm absolutely positive the problem is not mechanical, Duh... but electrical. What / where should I test for in the electrical system? Thanks.
AHA... now i know what i need to fix my dfr550 ^^ prettysure iam like everyone else haveing a lovehate relationship with it 😂
€600 repair bill, €5 labour €595 knowing where to look to take out screw 😂😂😂
never understand why air tool operators never use an inline oiler. every air tool i repair has never seen a drop of oil since they were purchased
Can you imagine the chaos if ( when?) an EMP bomb goes off and all power tools get fried? Going back to hand tools would totally suck. Mind you, there’d be bigger problems than fried tools to deal with,..Just sayin,
The Makita drywall gun is absolute junk, don’t rate it at all, I have the dewalt gun and it’s miles better, mine is 3yr old and use it all day everyday not an issue
Love your work - just curious as I’m not in the trade but is there a site or software where you can get expanded schematics- I’ve a table saw (Hyundai) but the schematics are terrible online - is there anything youd recommend?