A well presented video on bearing replacement. Thanks for posting it. I liked your comment that "machinery is always talking to you - and you have to listen." Good advice. Thanks again!
Glad it worked out for ya Jim. Now that you have done it you will just get better at it. I take a lot of crap for this vid but I leave up so that folks like you can see it done and give it a try. I hope all your project go well. Have a great day.
All bearings that are a press fit are to tight to put on and off the shaft with very special tools. If you press them on cold you can remove some metal that might effect things. If you heat it up it expands enouph that you can slip it on. To remove it you use a puller and drag it off and stress the bearing area but most times you wouldn't want to reuse it anyway. Thanks for watching and comenting
I install bearings on motors like this and much bigger motors.. All elevator motors.. we heat up the outer race first and then the inner race.. we use a torch on a map gas tank.. as long as you keep the torch moving and don't blue the bearing you are fine.. then as we are heating up the inner race we spit on it,and when the spit jumps off the bearing is ready.. I'm sure this sounds crazy to some people but it works like a charm!! never had a problem and installed hundreds of bearings from 2" to 10".. for smaller bearings like the one in this video u can get a drop light with a 120watt bulb and place bearing on bulb for a while and then slap it on..works great.. but the torch is the fastest and best!
+john k I love comments like this that don't criticize but add to the content and purpose of the vid. I get a lot of BS from people that don't work around industrial motors and have no experience. Thank You for your contribution. I have worked around DC elevator motors. People complain about the small grinder I used to cut the bearing off but they have never seen all the carbon build up around elevator motors. I really admire those old brass OTIS emblems. Wish I had one to hang on my wall. Thanks again. I know what you mean about the spit test. It just bounces off like an exhaust header.
Copper coat on inner bearing race to shaft and use induction heat. But great job. Now the DE bell should not just slip on, I use a dead blow hammer to fit bell ends and most motors have landmarks for position of bell ends. Great video and good work, keep going my friend.
Heating bearings by the oven method is not the best way to do the trick. The Goal is to expand the inner race and not boil out the grease in the bearing. Quick and simple way is to find a short socket in your Craftsman set that closely matches the inner race diameter and set the socket on a hot plate with the bearing on top of the socket. This process was used to install disk drive bearings that are very fussy about heat and grease distribution inside the bearing. You can also cool the shaft with an ice pack to insure that the bearing goes on without scuffing the motor shaft which will make the bearing run rough. One other point is when putting on motor end cap hand fit and tighten the bolts side to side which will make the cap go on relatively easier than tightening just one side. One problem with putting on bearings by the heat method is that the process sometimes make the shaft and the inner race of the bearing actually develop a metal bond making later rebuilds a little more difficult. Informative video, Thanks.
+Harry Jones Mr. Jones you should make a video. You have some good points. I think my vid is just one of many examples of how to do the job. It all depends on circumstances for a given situations. I have a friend that works full time at a large electric motor shop. You would not believe some of the story's he tells me. There are many ways to complete any task. You just do the best you can with what you have. Not many people are brave enough to post a video that is trying to help someone who dose not have experience or someone else to show them. Keep this in mind and create a great day. I appreciate your input. It may help someone else.
+TheEZGZ heating the entire bearing to temp isn't gonna hurt that grease at all, it can withstand 300 degrees F with no problem. I've installed many a large bearing on papermill rolls with hot oil bath heaters.
I work on these things everyday, we get some crazy old motors coming in sometimes, just layered like silicone with geese and wood chip. We have to sand blast the shit out of them.
I'm a skilled tradesman and speak from experience. the link was just proof straight from one of the largest bearing manufacturers. it's one thing to show someone how to do something and it's another to give them wrong information. We get paid well to do things the proper way.
Being a skilled tradesman as you are I'm sure you understand that it is not a perfect world and there are times you have to act quickly and use what you have on hand. My goal here was to offer a alternative suggestion and help people think out of the box. Most people that target this video in a negative way refer to the sparks and metal hitting the winding. They were dry and low temp and did no harm. That motor has run perfectly ever since I did the video. I respect your opinion but it is just that. An opinion even though you find it below your standards. Open you mind and relieve the stress
Are yes that brings back memories from my first trade as an elec fitter armature rewinder lol, next time use bearings that allows you to use the grease nipples supplied to pump grease into bearings this will help with life of the bearings,unless this motor is going into a really bad environment.great video😀
We had a cone heater at the shop to heat bearings, but when had to change one in the field we used what ever we had most of the time cutting torch you got to be careful not to get it to hot, your stove was alright use what you got.
Hello. I was so happy when you said, 'we're not finished', and I saw the housing/cover. But you didn't encounter my problem, :( lol..... My cover has a rubber gasket embedded into it, to seat the bearing in, and, exactly like your motor here, once I get the cover down to the bearing, I can't get any tools in there, and even if I could it would have to be so precise, the circle size, and be able to stretch 4 or 5 directions at once, but only a couple mm each way, lol, it's nuts. And if I rip the rubber out, then the shaft is free to wobble.. I mean you know all this, but ... am I pooched, can this be done? Peace
I suspect the housing has a slight taper to help get started. ??? Maybe put the seal partway on the bearing and spray some silicone on the outside???? Good luck with your project. Maybe contact the motor manufacturer and ask?
That's a very hot oven. I don't go by minutes. I don't want to burn the seals or loose the lubricant. I just stick it in there for a while. If you take it out and it doesn't want to go on the shaft I put it back in the oven for a while longer and try again. If your new to this method just experiment by taking a old bearing off the shaft with a puller and then put it back on with the heat method. You will get a feel for it. You can use a torch. You can put oil in a pan on a stove and heat it. Then put your bearing in the oil while on the stove wait for the heat to transfer. Be creative. You can even chill the shaft to get a little shrinkage. I guess I have the luxury of working here everyday. I can see the cause and effect of my efforts as well as watch how contractors do work. They have to show up, Do the work and guarantee it. There methods are a bitt different. Much equipment is neglected and outside contractors would rather replace the entire motor than repair it on site like this. I love my work here.
we know that the bearing is sealed and got drease insite.... how long we have leave the bearing in the oven? what is happning to the grease wile is heating?
You can heat the bearing any way you want. Just do it slowly and then try fitting it on the shaft. If it does not slide easily over the shaft then heat it some more and try again. Do not heat it so much that you damage the seals and the grease comes out. Experiment on a old motor if you can. Pull a bearing off and try to put it on. Then heat the old bearing and try to put it back on and you will learn from doing it.
I got 6002RS bearings I'm going to install on a bike transmission shaft. They aren't 100% metal. Would it still be safe to heat up bearings like those? & would any old oven do the job ?
+Johnny B The video is a little deceiving. I didn't heat the bear to long in that oven even though the oven thermometer said almost 300. If you have a coffee maker just set the bearing on the hot plate for 15 minutes or so and see if it slips on the shaft easy. If it sticks at all heat it longer and try again. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching
When you don't have a sealed bearing, what grease do you usually use? I know there are some polyurea greases and they are not that expensive by comparison to other greases that are more commonly used on other things.
Lot's of variables, Load, Temp, RPM, and so forth. On a new set up I just follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I generally don't change brands if it's been in service as some grease react to each other. Most modern general purpose grease's are of high quality. I do like synthetic marine grade lube as well. Especially in my cooling towers.
No, The bearings go right up to the shoulder on the center shaft. Sometimes there is a hold down clamp and other times there is a flat spring or the endplate is a machined fit. The magnetic field will center the armature
About 225 F for 10 minutes. You will know right away. If it doesn't start easy heat it some more. Ounce you get it on the shaft and it starts moving push it home quickly. After the first install you will be a pro
Bearings are a friction fit they just won't slide on or off when cold. If you warm up the bearing and leave the shaft at room temp or chill it with ice and heat the bearing it expands and will slide right on. You don't have to get them real hot. You can lay them on a coffee pot warmer in the break room and then grab some gloves and rush it over to the shaft and test it. Good Luck with your project.:-)
Okay that does make some sense. I was going to do this with a used table saw but decided that I will not be getting the saw. I always like to 'nerd out' a little on something I have to do, to make sure I can prevent something from going wrong, as it is "not my area of profession". Thank you kindly for the reply.
Installing a sealed bearing which cannot be greased inside a motor which has grease nipple and large capacity seems to be a mistake to me ... please advise me..thanks
It's been my experience in this facility that my coworkers have not been trained properly. They do not know when to add grease or how much when the time comes. I have had more problems with over greased motors collecting dirt and overheating the motors than I care to count. By using a factory sealed bearing and removing the zerk fitting guys leave my stuff alone. I probably getting longer life and less work for my self doing it this way. I've been to a few bearing seminars and classes where they explained the pros and cons. It really ends up being a personal and management choice. My boss agreed with me. Thanks for your comment and view.
It's best to just hand tighten them and start the motor. Let it run for a while with an accurate Amp meter and then do your final tightening after it goes threw a normal heat cycle to seat the bearing. I did not use a torque wrench
The new bearing has seals on both sides and lubricated from the manufacturer. The old bearing was open and required lubrication from the mechanic. You can remove the seals but I chose to leave them in therefore I removed the zerk so someone else would not force grease into the winding area. Thanks for your view, comment and question.
ahh.....pv is out of my realm. I do know that modern pv systems prefer micro inverters which are placed per panel as opposed to string inverters which cause the entire array to output at the rate of the lowest or most shaded panel. inverters are just microprocessors, capacitors, diodes, resistors and transistors. The design is nothing short of "magic". But inverter schematics are out there for the adventurous. only grid tie pv systems really need ac converion. dc appliances are more efficient
I don't know about you but my motors are ether horizontal or vertical and are install level so why on earth would a bearing move ounce you got it in position.. hehehehe Take care and hang on.
I agree with holding the bearing for a moment. I've had them walk back on crankshafts on small engines and learned from that. I don't see a problem with the temp, I've heard of not going above 250 but old timers never seemed to care about the temp, only the fit-up. Heat til it goes home, clamp and cool. I've froze a lot of bearings and heated cases too, like you said in the video listen to what the machine is telling. People forget that you are the real deal pro in the field and we are lucky to see the video of your work. Instructions are for laymen, and you show us what the instructions don't which is 100 years or more of experience handed down through the years.
Ryan McLeod yes instructions, I get it. when you quote from a book you can always ref the book for proof of your awesomeness. Or you could quote from the book of life and those who respect and honor that book will say holy cow I'm lucky to get that bit of professional info. the point of this video is heat it don't beat it. not which temp is exactly perfect according to the instructions. you're comment was fine however insisting that you know everything that the book states is unnecessary and rude.
It's always been that way. We have some folks with the paper and can't tie there own shoe. Just take anything to get in the door. Then do a good job and start networking to find that person who will recognize your talent and give you a break. Good luck and thanks for watching.
TheEZGZ I know, I worked there for a while, for this company that took pictures in the plant and warehouse to make a database for the computer, for the mechanics use. I used to break my heart, because I knew I could do the work. Especially with some training. They had head mechanics too, so it wasn't like they would just turn a new guy loose and say "fix it" they worked with you pretty good. No, I am pretty well done. I got a job with the highway dept, but got sick, and had to have treatments, now I can't work out in the cold, so probably won't go back to work. Life can change in a hurry. I was wondering, when you cut the bearing with the dremmel, and were hitting it with the chisel, if you put something under the bearing race, like a hunk of steel, or a andvill,to support the shaft, if that would have made it easier to split the race? I used to split them like that sometimes too, but I got good with the torch, where I could nick them with a torch, and split with a chisel, but maybe you wouldn't want slag in the motor either.
anthony diodati I am retired now. I have a lot to be thankful for. Looking back on my own past there were things I did not understand that changed my life but now I know it was for the best. I sincerely hope you find peace.
Actually Henry your Technique is not the best way to do it if you're going to be a professional and do it right purchase the bearing warmer little bit pricey but still worth the cost and Longevity bearing damage replacement bearing because of Damage Done list goes on Harry let's try to do it right if we're going to give tips let's be professional I know you got it in you Harry
Actually we was just talking about that today.. thinking about going ahead and set up a motor test station ,get the bearing pullers bearing warmer, also thinking about doing a amperage before and after the bearing change. and motor cleanup also think about getting a run-out station setup check out for shaft runout on the motor and a thermometer gun check for heat what do you think should I do it?
+Randall Highsmith as an electrical mechanic/ vib/field-shop ballancer/alignment tech, I think that's a great idea. I would like to see more technically correct videos posted by professionals
Brings back old memories I wish our workplace was as clean as yours, talking about motorcycles I sold mine also I've got to old and fat.
+Joe Tiller LOL I feel your pain Joe. We are probably better off without those two wheel death traps with all these kids driving around texting.
A well presented video on bearing replacement. Thanks for posting it. I liked your comment that "machinery is always talking to you - and you have to listen." Good advice. Thanks again!
Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate the support. Have a great day!
20 minutes at 250 degrees in a toaster oven. Dropped right on my old Craftsman radial arm saw motor. Thanks for the tip, really appreciate it.
Glad it worked out for ya Jim. Now that you have done it you will just get better at it. I take a lot of crap for this vid but I leave up so that folks like you can see it done and give it a try. I hope all your project go well. Have a great day.
All bearings that are a press fit are to tight to put on and off the shaft with very special tools. If you press them on cold you can remove some metal that might effect things. If you heat it up it expands enouph that you can slip it on. To remove it you use a puller and drag it off and stress the bearing area but most times you wouldn't want to reuse it anyway. Thanks for watching and comenting
I install bearings on motors like this and much bigger motors.. All elevator motors.. we heat up the outer race first and then the inner race.. we use a torch on a map gas tank.. as long as you keep the torch moving and don't blue the bearing you are fine.. then as we are heating up the inner race we spit on it,and when the spit jumps off the bearing is ready.. I'm sure this sounds crazy to some people but it works like a charm!! never had a problem and installed hundreds of bearings from 2" to 10".. for smaller bearings like the one in this video u can get a drop light with a 120watt bulb and place bearing on bulb for a while and then slap it on..works great.. but the torch is the fastest and best!
+john k I love comments like this that don't criticize but add to the content and purpose of the vid. I get a lot of BS from people that don't work around industrial motors and have no experience. Thank You for your contribution. I have worked around DC elevator motors. People complain about the small grinder I used to cut the bearing off but they have never seen all the carbon build up around elevator motors. I really admire those old brass OTIS emblems. Wish I had one to hang on my wall. Thanks again. I know what you mean about the spit test. It just bounces off like an exhaust header.
Copper coat on inner bearing race to shaft and use induction heat. But great job. Now the DE bell should not just slip on, I use a dead blow hammer to fit bell ends and most motors have landmarks for position of bell ends. Great video and good work, keep going my friend.
I will just assume the surge/hipot. Winding tests have bien done.
Nope! and it's still purring like a kitten
Heating bearings by the oven method is not the best way to do the trick. The Goal is to expand the inner race and not boil out the grease in the bearing. Quick and simple way is to find a short socket in your Craftsman set that closely matches the inner race diameter and set the socket on a hot plate with the bearing on top of the socket. This process was used to install disk drive bearings that are very fussy about heat and grease distribution inside the bearing. You can also cool the shaft with an ice pack to insure that the bearing goes on without scuffing the motor shaft which will make the bearing run rough.
One other point is when putting on motor end cap hand fit and tighten the bolts side to side which will make the cap go on relatively easier than tightening just one side. One problem with putting on bearings by the heat method is that the process sometimes make the shaft and the inner race of the bearing actually develop a metal bond making later rebuilds a little more difficult. Informative video, Thanks.
+Harry Jones Mr. Jones you should make a video. You have some good points. I think my vid is just one of many examples of how to do the job. It all depends on circumstances for a given situations. I have a friend that works full time at a large electric motor shop. You would not believe some of the story's he tells me. There are many ways to complete any task. You just do the best you can with what you have. Not many people are brave enough to post a video that is trying to help someone who dose not have experience or someone else to show them. Keep this in mind and create a great day. I appreciate your input. It may help someone else.
+TheEZGZ heating the entire bearing to temp isn't gonna hurt that grease at all, it can withstand 300 degrees F with no problem. I've installed many a large bearing on papermill rolls with hot oil bath heaters.
I work on these things everyday, we get some crazy old motors coming in sometimes, just layered like silicone with geese and wood chip. We have to sand blast the shit out of them.
Thanks for the video. Why did you say not to lube the shaft before putting it on?
It's supposed to be a tight friction fit when it cools down. It's not supposed to spin (rotate) on the shaft.
I'm a skilled tradesman and speak from experience. the link was just proof straight from one of the largest bearing manufacturers. it's one thing to show someone how to do something and it's another to give them wrong information. We get paid well to do things the proper way.
Being a skilled tradesman as you are I'm sure you understand that it is not a perfect world and there are times you have to act quickly and use what you have on hand. My goal here was to offer a alternative suggestion and help people think out of the box. Most people that target this video in a negative way refer to the sparks and metal hitting the winding. They were dry and low temp and did no harm. That motor has run perfectly ever since I did the video. I respect your opinion but it is just that. An opinion even though you find it below your standards. Open you mind and relieve the stress
Are yes that brings back memories from my first trade as an elec fitter armature rewinder lol, next time use bearings that allows you to use the grease nipples supplied to pump grease into bearings this will help with life of the bearings,unless this motor is going into a really bad environment.great video😀
Thank you!
We had a cone heater at the shop to heat bearings, but when had to change one in the field we used what ever we had most of the time cutting torch you got to be careful not to get it to hot, your stove was alright use what you got.
+Joe Tiller Thanks for your support Joe
I saw one of those induction heaters used at a electric motor shop. I was very fast and easy. I wish I had one. Thanks for watching and commenting.
TheEZGZ yes
Hello. I was so happy when you said, 'we're not finished', and I saw the housing/cover. But you didn't encounter my problem, :( lol..... My cover has a rubber gasket embedded into it, to seat the bearing in, and, exactly like your motor here, once I get the cover down to the bearing, I can't get any tools in there, and even if I could it would have to be so precise, the circle size, and be able to stretch 4 or 5 directions at once, but only a couple mm each way, lol, it's nuts. And if I rip the rubber out, then the shaft is free to wobble..
I mean you know all this, but ... am I pooched, can this be done? Peace
I suspect the housing has a slight taper to help get started. ??? Maybe put the seal partway on the bearing and spray some silicone on the outside???? Good luck with your project. Maybe contact the motor manufacturer and ask?
Sir.How many minutes the bearing should be heated inside the oven?
That's a very hot oven. I don't go by minutes. I don't want to burn the seals or loose the lubricant. I just stick it in there for a while. If you take it out and it doesn't want to go on the shaft I put it back in the oven for a while longer and try again. If your new to this method just experiment by taking a old bearing off the shaft with a puller and then put it back on with the heat method. You will get a feel for it. You can use a torch. You can put oil in a pan on a stove and heat it. Then put your bearing in the oil while on the stove wait for the heat to transfer. Be creative. You can even chill the shaft to get a little shrinkage.
I guess I have the luxury of working here everyday. I can see the cause and effect of my efforts as well as watch how contractors do work. They have to show up, Do the work and guarantee it. There methods are a bitt different. Much equipment is neglected and outside contractors would rather replace the entire motor than repair it on site like this. I love my work here.
We had to run it today and is sounded nice.
we know that the bearing is sealed and got drease insite....
how long we have leave the bearing in the oven?
what is happning to the grease wile is heating?
You can heat the bearing any way you want. Just do it slowly and then try fitting it on the shaft. If it does not slide easily over the shaft then heat it some more and try again. Do not heat it so much that you damage the seals and the grease comes out. Experiment on a old motor if you can. Pull a bearing off and try to put it on. Then heat the old bearing and try to put it back on and you will learn from doing it.
using an induction heater will be beneficial also.
Is it really necessary to ensure the bearing part numbers are facing a certain direction? Bearing should work either direction, right?
You are correct.
I got 6002RS bearings I'm going to install on a bike transmission shaft. They aren't 100% metal. Would it still be safe to heat up bearings like those? & would any old oven do the job ?
+Johnny B The video is a little deceiving. I didn't heat the bear to long in that oven even though the oven thermometer said almost 300.
If you have a coffee maker just set the bearing on the hot plate for 15 minutes or so and see if it slips on the shaft easy. If it sticks at all heat it longer and try again. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching
TheEZGZ Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Trade tricks - I have put heat on the bearing and cold on the shaft.
No trick to this vid the real challenge here was doing it in place without removing from the base at all.
When you don't have a sealed bearing, what grease do you usually use? I know there are some polyurea greases and they are not that expensive by comparison to other greases that are more commonly used on other things.
Lot's of variables, Load, Temp, RPM, and so forth. On a new set up I just follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I generally don't change brands if it's been in service as some grease react to each other. Most modern general purpose grease's are of high quality. I do like synthetic marine grade lube as well. Especially in my cooling towers.
Here is great info I found that should answer everyone's question's regarding lubrication
www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/798/grease-selection
Good job Mr, thanks for information for me
Always welcome
Do you have to mark the location of the rear main bearing?
No, The bearings go right up to the shoulder on the center shaft. Sometimes there is a hold down clamp and other times there is a flat spring or the endplate is a machined fit. The magnetic field will center the armature
How many "miles" had the original bearing done?
Shouldn't the end bell be an interference fit with the bearing? Otherwise the bearing is just spinning around inside the end bell and wearing it down.
It's a taper fit. It starts easy and gets tighter as it centers itself. 7 years later it is still running perfectly!
@@TheEZGZ Ah ok. That makes sense 👍😊
I'm about to replace the bearings on my 2hp 3phase Motor. How long should I keep the bearing in the oven and how hot?
About 225 F for 10 minutes. You will know right away. If it doesn't start easy heat it some more. Ounce you get it on the shaft and it starts moving push it home quickly. After the first install you will be a pro
Thank you! Great video :)
i use a an oven too as long as the bearing does not have a plastic seal and the shaft i just stick it outside where its always cold lol good vid
Thanks for watchin
Why would you bake a bearing, I read in some comments but if somebody could kinda explain because I may or may not be doing this. Thanks!
Bearings are a friction fit they just won't slide on or off when cold. If you warm up the bearing and leave the shaft at room temp or chill it with ice and heat the bearing it expands and will slide right on. You don't have to get them real hot. You can lay them on a coffee pot warmer in the break room and then grab some gloves and rush it over to the shaft and test it. Good Luck with your project.:-)
Okay that does make some sense. I was going to do this with a used table saw but decided that I will not be getting the saw. I always like to 'nerd out' a little on something I have to do, to make sure I can prevent something from going wrong, as it is "not my area of profession". Thank you kindly for the reply.
Do you do one side at a time? I may have got myself into a jam, just pulled both endbells off the motor
You should be ok but it might be harder find center and pull the ends in. Let us know how your project came out. Thanks for watching and comenting
Nice stuff brother. You did a great job.
Installing a sealed bearing which cannot be greased inside a motor which has grease nipple and large capacity seems to be a mistake to me ... please advise me..thanks
It's been my experience in this facility that my coworkers have not been trained properly. They do not know when to add grease or how much when the time comes. I have had more problems with over greased motors collecting dirt and overheating the motors than I care to count. By using a factory sealed bearing and removing the zerk fitting guys leave my stuff alone. I probably getting longer life and less work for my self doing it this way. I've been to a few bearing seminars and classes where they explained the pros and cons. It really ends up being a personal and management choice. My boss agreed with me. Thanks for your comment and view.
@@TheEZGZ This is true, Im rebuilding a motor at the moment, it has a thick layer of grease all over the windings due to overgreasing.
No, I don't have experience with inverters. Thanks for watchin.
Did you torque those bolts? If so what value?
It's best to just hand tighten them and start the motor. Let it run for a while with an accurate Amp meter and then do your final tightening after it goes threw a normal heat cycle to seat the bearing. I did not use a torque wrench
My motor not making pressure after changing bearing what should I do,
Probably air in the system
depends on your idea of complicated. they are complex in design and simple in execution. 90% of the drive is not serviceable.
great job buddy
All good keep the videos coming👍
Nice vid, like the oven trick, cheers mate :)
wow that went on slick nice one
Great video
Why plug up the zerk?
The new bearing has seals on both sides and lubricated from the manufacturer.
The old bearing was open and required lubrication from the mechanic. You can remove the seals but I chose to leave them in therefore I removed the zerk so someone else would not force grease into the winding area. Thanks for your view, comment and question.
Even a blind squirrel finds a acorn ounce in a while. Usually the R button means desaster.
Why are you heating the bearing ?
It is a friction fit and you should not beat on a new bearing. By heating it for a short time in the oven it expands and it will slip right on. :-)
TheEZGZ would you tell me, which type of bearing should not be beaten and which should be beaten ?
@@syedmohammadali9603 No bearing should be 'beaten' ever, either you heat the bearing or use a hydraulic press to seat it.
how mutch hp that this is huge
I think that one is 120 HP Thanks for watchin
welcome
ahh.....pv is out of my realm. I do know that modern pv systems prefer micro inverters which are placed per panel as opposed to string inverters which cause the entire array to output at the rate of the lowest or most shaded panel. inverters are just microprocessors, capacitors, diodes, resistors and transistors. The design is nothing short of "magic". But inverter schematics are out there for the adventurous. only grid tie pv systems really need ac converion. dc appliances are more efficient
You should never heat a bearing over 250 degrees f
Also, he should hold the bearing to the end as it cools, to make sure it seats properly.
I don't know about you but my motors are ether horizontal or vertical and are install level so why on earth would a bearing move ounce you got it in position.. hehehehe Take care and hang on.
yup! once it contracts to the cold shaft it pulls away seat. You should hold it in position for 10 seconds until it cools down.
I agree with holding the bearing for a moment. I've had them walk back on crankshafts on small engines and learned from that. I don't see a problem with the temp, I've heard of not going above 250 but old timers never seemed to care about the temp, only the fit-up. Heat til it goes home, clamp and cool. I've froze a lot of bearings and heated cases too, like you said in the video listen to what the machine is telling. People forget that you are the real deal pro in the field and we are lucky to see the video of your work. Instructions are for laymen, and you show us what the instructions don't which is 100 years or more of experience handed down through the years.
Ryan McLeod yes instructions, I get it. when you quote from a book you can always ref the book for proof of your awesomeness. Or you could quote from the book of life and those who respect and honor that book will say holy cow I'm lucky to get that bit of professional info. the point of this video is heat it don't beat it. not which temp is exactly perfect according to the instructions. you're comment was fine however insisting that you know everything that the book states is unnecessary and rude.
i wish l could get a job in a plant like that, but l applied to AEP but they wouldn't even talk to me cause I didn't have a degree.
It's always been that way. We have some folks with the paper and can't tie there own shoe. Just take anything to get in the door. Then do a good job and start networking to find that person who will recognize your talent and give you a break. Good luck and thanks for watching.
TheEZGZ I know, I worked there for a while, for this company that took pictures in the plant and warehouse to make a database for the computer, for the mechanics use.
I used to break my heart, because I knew I could do the work. Especially with some training. They had head mechanics too, so it wasn't like they would just turn a new guy loose and say "fix it" they worked with you pretty good.
No, I am pretty well done. I got a job with the highway dept, but got sick, and had to have treatments, now I can't work out in the cold, so probably won't go back to work. Life can change in a hurry.
I was wondering, when you cut the bearing with the dremmel, and were hitting it with the chisel, if you put something under the bearing race, like a hunk of steel, or a andvill,to support the shaft, if that would have made it easier to split the race?
I used to split them like that sometimes too, but I got good with the torch, where I could nick them with a torch, and split with a chisel, but maybe you wouldn't want slag in the motor either.
anthony diodati I am retired now. I have a lot to be thankful for. Looking back on my own past there were things I did not understand that changed my life but now I know it was for the best. I sincerely hope you find peace.
TheEZGZ thanks EZ
+anthony diodati never cut a motor bearing off with a torch, the chance of melting the insulation on the windings is too great.
ezgx you are cool!
So are YOU !!!!
no i am not coz i use pipe and hammer til now :-))))) but i will
good stuff
Or you can freeze the shaft with a can of dust off sprayed upside-down.
A 2 1/2 inch steel shaft would take more than a can I'm afraid. A good blast of R12 worked in the good old days'
I think that one was about $80
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Actually Henry your Technique is not the best way to do it if you're going to be a professional and do it right purchase the bearing warmer little bit pricey but still worth the cost and Longevity bearing damage replacement bearing because of Damage Done list goes on Harry let's try to do it right if we're going to give tips let's be professional I know you got it in you Harry
+Randall Highsmith Every one is a critic. How about you make a video and show us the correct way to get the same results.
Actually we was just talking about that today.. thinking about going ahead and set up a motor test station ,get the bearing pullers bearing warmer, also thinking about doing a amperage before and after the bearing change. and motor cleanup also think about getting a run-out station setup check out for shaft runout on the motor and a thermometer gun check for heat what do you think should I do it?
+Randall Highsmith
as an electrical mechanic/ vib/field-shop ballancer/alignment tech, I think that's a great idea. I would like to see more technically correct videos posted by professionals