Thank you so much I'm 76 and my husband is disabled, I call Ref repair they wanted $178 plus parts and after see this I was able to do it myself Thanks a million
My refrigerator light went out last night, I bought new bulbs and wondered why it still wouldn't work. Turns out my light switch is broken. This video is a lifesaver. Thanks!
My switch was encased in the foam. I used a set of small pliers, needle nose pliers & basically took the switch out in pieces. Was careful and didn't damage the refrigerator. Then I took my time removed the foam & freed up the wires. Connected them to the new switch and good as new
Thanks for this video. I was going to call a repair man, which I'm sure would have cost me $150-$200. I watched your video, ordered the part on Amazon for 9 bucks, and installed it just as easy as you showed. Only curveball I had was that the old stock switch had 3 prongs on it, while the new switch only had 2 prongs. I plugged it into the wire housing and it still worked, so I guess I'm good to go.
Thank you for the very helpful video. I am a G.M. technician which does not help at all. Without your tip, I could have pried on the wrong side of the switch with the putty knife and damaged the housing. See, we never stop learning! Mucho thankso.
I noticed that one is on the top of the door. My current side by side I got a year ago has the switch on the left side near the shelves where you pull things out. I have broken it twice already because its hard to get things out without bumping it. A MAJOR design flaw. I would avoid Whirlpool fridges because of this. Also the inside lights are very bright and shine right in your eyes (no diffusion ) when they light up.
BE AWARE - this video shows an ideal situation does NOT exist in my world. Note how the video cuts away and then comes back with the switch magically half way out. After fighting for an hour+ to get the switch out, the switch came out WITHOUT the wires attached. Why did the wires not come too? Because the existing foam insulation cemented everything in place so soundly, that the switch disconnected from the wire connectors instead of bringing the wires with the switch. Now i have to figure out how to perform surgery to extract the wires from the foam insulation before i can even attempt to replace the switch.
Look where the clip is that holds the switch in place and that is where you pry with a putty knife. Then gently pull it out. I bought the switch first and saw which side the clip is located.
Well of coarse the job is 5 times more labor intense. If there weren't multiple, unanticipated, complicating variables, like the difficult-to-access switch wires, because they're encased in hardened, spray insulation, life would not be challenging, and you would grow bored and complacent, and your immense inner list of dirty words would grow shorter for lack of use. So let the filth fly, and make a game of it by counting how nany of them are still at the tip of your tongue!
Will my refrigerator stay cool if thus switch broke ? Something hit my switch and broke it off I have another coming but I literally just went grocery shopping
BE AWARE: I had similar experience as commenter phaedrusalt. The original switch in my refrigerator was encased in foam holding the switch in place and the foam filled the space under the tab so there was no give to the tab. Removing the switch was difficult and damaged the panel. Nor would the new switch fit correctly because the panel was damaged and foam inside was in the way inside. I had to remove some of the foam to get the switch far enough in to close the door. Switch is still not flush with the panel. Panel around switch is torn and marred. Clean and neat appearance is gone. Be careful!
I just ran into the exact same issue. Couldn't figure out why the switch was refusing to come out when pushing the release tab down. I ended up managing to work it out very slowly with a lot of effort and steady force. I was able to use plastic pry tools to avoid marking the inside of the fridge, and I found that leveraging off a putty knife blade held flat to the side of the fridge helped ensure the interior plastic panel didn't flex in too much while working to lever the top of the switch forward and out. It was not easy because the foam fills under the tab that has to be pressed down to release the switch, and completely surrounds the switch body making it hard to extract. Clearly someone wasn't designing for easy replacement. Once I managed to get the switch out I used a plastic tool to dig out the foam around the connectors and wires, and clear enough space to fit them back in under the new switch. I was then able to push in the replacement switch. All working well now, but way harder than it needed to be.
BE AWARE: This video shows the "best case" scenario. Looks easy, huh? Maybe if you've lived a charmed life... Well, in the case of mine the spray insulation/adhesive was UNDER the clip of the old switch, which meant that it required a lot of prying (With associated interior-wall damage, of course!) to get the switch out of the door. By then (Of course!) the wires had disconnected themselves, and were in the mass of insulation inside the wall. Easy? In retrospect, I should have paid someone $150 to do it for me!!!
Thank you so much I'm 76 and my husband is disabled, I call Ref repair they wanted $178 plus parts and after see this I was able to do it myself Thanks a million
Got a new fridge, and broke this switch immediately. Thanks for the fix.
I wanted to come back and say thank you! You saved me so much time and money. This took me less then 5 min to fix myself!
My refrigerator light went out last night, I bought new bulbs and wondered why it still wouldn't work. Turns out my light switch is broken. This video is a lifesaver. Thanks!
Thanks for the question! No, it doesn't matter which wire connects to which contact - these ones are interchangeable. Take care!
Thanks for the quick no nonsense tutorial. Looking forward to seeing your others.
My switch was encased in the foam. I used a set of small pliers, needle nose pliers & basically took the switch out in pieces. Was careful and didn't damage the refrigerator. Then I took my time removed the foam & freed up the wires. Connected them to the new switch and good as new
Same with mine. I'm gonna try and do what you did. Wish me luck.
Thanks for this video. I was going to call a repair man, which I'm sure would have cost me $150-$200. I watched your video, ordered the part on Amazon for 9 bucks, and installed it just as easy as you showed. Only curveball I had was that the old stock switch had 3 prongs on it, while the new switch only had 2 prongs. I plugged it into the wire housing and it still worked, so I guess I'm good to go.
Thank you for the very helpful video. I am a G.M. technician which does not help at all. Without your tip, I could have pried on the wrong side of the switch with the putty knife and damaged the housing. See, we never stop learning! Mucho thankso.
I noticed that one is on the top of the door. My current side by side I got a year ago has the switch on the left side near the shelves where you pull things out. I have broken it twice already because its hard to get things out without bumping it. A MAJOR design flaw. I would avoid Whirlpool fridges because of this. Also the inside lights are very bright and shine right in your eyes (no diffusion ) when they light up.
Definitely a cluster.
BE AWARE - this video shows an ideal situation does NOT exist in my world. Note how the video cuts away and then comes back with the switch magically half way out. After fighting for an hour+ to get the switch out, the switch came out WITHOUT the wires attached. Why did the wires not come too? Because the existing foam insulation cemented everything in place so soundly, that the switch disconnected from the wire connectors instead of bringing the wires with the switch. Now i have to figure out how to perform surgery to extract the wires from the foam insulation before i can even attempt to replace the switch.
We're you able to figure out a solution?
Look where the clip is that holds the switch in place and that is where you pry with a putty knife. Then gently pull it out. I bought the switch first and saw which side the clip is located.
Wish i saw this comment before going through the exact same experience lol
Well of coarse the job is 5 times more labor intense. If there weren't multiple, unanticipated, complicating variables, like the difficult-to-access switch wires, because they're encased in hardened, spray insulation, life would not be challenging, and you would grow bored and complacent, and your immense inner list of dirty words would grow shorter for lack of use. So let the filth fly, and make a game of it by counting how nany of them are still at the tip of your tongue!
So my wires didn't pop out with the plug. Any advice to pull the wires out? I've tried with needle nose pliers but no luck
I can not get the wires out. Now what??
Will my refrigerator stay cool if thus switch broke ? Something hit my switch and broke it off I have another coming but I literally just went grocery shopping
Very helpful, thanks 🙏🏽
Thank you! So helpful!
My light switch is not working (not the bulb) and my fridge will only work at the highest level. You think the problem is interconnected?
BE AWARE: I had similar experience as commenter phaedrusalt. The original switch in my refrigerator was encased in foam holding the switch in place and the foam filled the space under the tab so there was no give to the tab. Removing the switch was difficult and damaged the panel. Nor would the new switch fit correctly because the panel was damaged and foam inside was in the way inside. I had to remove some of the foam to get the switch far enough in to close the door. Switch is still not flush with the panel. Panel around switch is torn and marred. Clean and neat appearance is gone. Be careful!
What brand of refrigerator do you have? I have an old Sears kenmore and need to replace my light switch.
Mark.
@@markbell335 Marty, Whirlpool. Best wishes! (the door switch complaint notwithstanding, it still works great!)
I just ran into the exact same issue. Couldn't figure out why the switch was refusing to come out when pushing the release tab down. I ended up managing to work it out very slowly with a lot of effort and steady force. I was able to use plastic pry tools to avoid marking the inside of the fridge, and I found that leveraging off a putty knife blade held flat to the side of the fridge helped ensure the interior plastic panel didn't flex in too much while working to lever the top of the switch forward and out. It was not easy because the foam fills under the tab that has to be pressed down to release the switch, and completely surrounds the switch body making it hard to extract. Clearly someone wasn't designing for easy replacement. Once I managed to get the switch out I used a plastic tool to dig out the foam around the connectors and wires, and clear enough space to fit them back in under the new switch. I was then able to push in the replacement switch. All working well now, but way harder than it needed to be.
BE AWARE: This video shows the "best case" scenario. Looks easy, huh? Maybe if you've lived a charmed life... Well, in the case of mine the spray insulation/adhesive was UNDER the clip of the old switch, which meant that it required a lot of prying (With associated interior-wall damage, of course!) to get the switch out of the door. By then (Of course!) the wires had disconnected themselves, and were in the mass of insulation inside the wall. Easy? In retrospect, I should have paid someone $150 to do it for me!!!
Advice for someone already knew-deep in exactly this situation?
@@st.emilychristianson5609 No advice, but I will wish you luck!
I just replaced our light switch and it works backward. The light is ON when the door is closed. How can that be?
I have same problem with original switch, just suddenly started working in reverse, any answers please?
You either bought the wrong switch or if there are 3 terminals, hooked it up wrong.
My light switch does NOT pop out with a putty knife or ANY knife. Something at the top is holding it solid. Not a very helpful video.
Thanks
Hope this guy is still making videos. This was useful and simple. Good looking, man as well 🫡