What never seems to be mentioned is that to make Open Therm work you need the link in the boiler removed (just as you would for a normal on / off thermostat) & also you need to activate Open Therm in the Nest thermostat - in: settings, pro setup, continue, combi & then select heat with Open Therm.
I have a 14 month old Viessmann Vitodens 100 boiler,I fitted these Danfoss RAS-B2 TRV's to all 8 rads using their lock shields as well.All the TRV's were set to the recommended settings for each radiator prior to fitting.The system is clean so all should be good. The result? buzzing and vibrating radiators and Viessmann Boiler has now transformed from a very quiet boiler to a boiler that sound almost like a failing pump. I contacted Danfoss about this issue, they are going to contact me with a fix.Well this has been 3 weeks ago and no response from Danfoss. Hope you have more luck with yours.
Did you fit these yourself? Are you a plumber/heating engineer? Is the boiler pump set at the correct speed as determined by the total flow rate through the radiator valves at the values they have been set to? Does the system have an external bypass fitted?
No not a plumber but no where does it state that the pump speed needs to be adjusted indeed in the advertising jargon it states that once these TRV' are pre set,after fitting you will be aware that the pump speed has slowed considerably.I know what you are thinking "what does he know he not a plumber" that maybe so but in my defence coming from 50 years experience as a mechanical engineer,I think I know what I'm talking about. I pre set the recommended numbers on the valves,no good so I tried dropping the numbers down by 1,no improvement so went the other way increased by 1,no improvement. Next week I'm going to replace these things with good quality standard TRV's!
@@turbo3492 if you have completed the relevant training you would know that pump speed should be set correctly for any system regardless of what valves are fitted. Mechanical engineering and plumbing/ Heating are completely different trades, just because you know one trade does not mean you automatically know another; you are obviously in beyond your depth and should employ the services of a competent heating engineer instead of learning how to DIY by watching TH-cam videos to save yourself more hassle and possible damage to your heating system.
May I ask how you got OT working on a S PLAN?? Been told that new wires need to be installed .... I am lost :( Got a Ideal Vogue Max s18 and TADO smarttbermostat 3v OT compatible
Opentherm would generally be used for combi boiler , the temperature within the house is monitored by the thermostat (current temperature) and you set the thermostat to what temperature you would like it (target temperature). The closer the current temperature gets to the target temperature, the cooler the radiators get (load compensation). On a system with a hot water cylinder, you would need to upgrade your s plan system to a priority hot water system (w plan) in order to be able to run the heating at lower temperatures , your heating engineer should be able to go through the various options. I hope this helps
Just to add there may be a solution from EPH controls , incorporating a cylinder thermostat and a seperate opentherm programmer. It may be worth giving them a call
What never seems to be mentioned is that to make Open Therm work you need the link in the boiler removed (just as you would for a normal on / off thermostat) & also you need to activate Open Therm in the Nest thermostat - in: settings, pro setup, continue, combi & then select heat with Open Therm.
Thanks for adding this advice
I have a 14 month old Viessmann Vitodens 100 boiler,I fitted these Danfoss RAS-B2 TRV's to all 8 rads using their lock shields as well.All the TRV's were set to the recommended settings for each radiator prior to fitting.The system is clean so all should be good. The result? buzzing and vibrating radiators and Viessmann Boiler has now transformed from a very quiet boiler to a boiler that sound almost like a failing pump.
I contacted Danfoss about this issue, they are going to contact me with a fix.Well this has been 3 weeks ago and no response from Danfoss. Hope you have more luck with yours.
Did you fit these yourself? Are you a plumber/heating engineer? Is the boiler pump set at the correct speed as determined by the total flow rate through the radiator valves at the values they have been set to? Does the system have an external bypass fitted?
No not a plumber but no where does it state that the pump speed needs to be adjusted indeed in the advertising jargon it states that once these TRV' are pre set,after fitting you will be aware that the pump speed has slowed considerably.I know what you are thinking "what does he know he not a plumber" that maybe so but in my defence coming from 50 years experience as a mechanical engineer,I think I know what I'm talking about.
I pre set the recommended numbers on the valves,no good so I tried dropping the numbers down by 1,no improvement so went the other way increased by 1,no improvement.
Next week I'm going to replace these things with good quality standard TRV's!
@@turbo3492 if you have completed the relevant training you would know that pump speed should be set correctly for any system regardless of what valves are fitted. Mechanical engineering and plumbing/ Heating are completely different trades, just because you know one trade does not mean you automatically know another; you are obviously in beyond your depth and should employ the services of a competent heating engineer instead of learning how to DIY by watching TH-cam videos to save yourself more hassle and possible damage to your heating system.
have you tried this was those smart thermostatic heads from wiser, tado etc.
Have fitted the hive trvs in a few different properties
May I ask how you got OT working on a S PLAN?? Been told that new wires need to be installed ....
I am lost :(
Got a Ideal Vogue Max s18 and TADO smarttbermostat 3v OT compatible
Opentherm would generally be used for combi boiler , the temperature within the house is monitored by the thermostat (current temperature) and you set the thermostat to what temperature you would like it (target temperature). The closer the current temperature gets to the target temperature, the cooler the radiators get (load compensation).
On a system with a hot water cylinder, you would need to upgrade your s plan system to a priority hot water system (w plan) in order to be able to run the heating at lower temperatures , your heating engineer should be able to go through the various options.
I hope this helps
Just to add there may be a solution from EPH controls , incorporating a cylinder thermostat and a seperate opentherm programmer. It may be worth giving them a call