Dave, I found the best method to clean the drain pan is the use ice machine cleaner to get all the corrosion either after scrubbing out with the scrubby.... And I love the Frank Rizzo comment... I know you know Frank...😂🤣🤪
Always great stuff. I work on a crew that repairs cafeteria equipment & refrigeration at BYU and have gotten a lot of great tips from your videos. Thanks for the time you put into making them.
That thing was pulling down good with the ballast still open! I pressured tested a mini split against the valve core one day for 15 minutes before I figured out what I was doing. I pushed a lot of nitrogen by it lol. Good repair Dave!
I never use captube driers with desecant beads. I always use 032 or 052 depending on size of units. The bead driers will vibrate the beads and plug up the new captube. Good work 👍 you don't have to worry
Great vid. I love that pump, works great. I recently got a spin swage kit that fits in the drill. I love it, it's super fast and easy to use. Works great for replacing the loops.
Great job Dave. I really enjoy your videos, they are some of the most informative ones on youtube. We can really tell how much you enjoy your work by the level of excitement and detail you put into your videos. Keep up the good work!
Yeah I agree, sometimes it just isn’t worth the effort to swage when you can just throw a coupler on and be done. Good video Dave, thanks. Sorry about your old iPad....
Good Video ! Man that System Was Wet ! When u see it slow down at 2,000 like that you know shees wet. buy yourself some of those VV Driers from emerson they have access valves on the drier. thye are like ek052sVV, Great for accessing the high side of the system , no additional welding. i Allways pull vacuums from both sides of the system because i allways want to know my head pressure when the sytem is running and vacuums are quicker. Also When the Vacuums Slow down like that Hook up a Bottle of Dry nitrogen to it and Blow the Shit out of it with Dry nitrogen and pressure test it a bit with 100 psi of nitrogen and relaease it. that will usually take care of it and get the vacuum speed back again. also a oil change on the pump . verify pump will pull it self down still sometimes pumps can get wet real quick and u need to do an immediate oil change. Good Vid !
Nice Quick evac, could you show your most efficient way of moving over to charge after evacuation, how you tie the cylinder back in - do you evacuate the charging hose or do you purge it out? Any tips for these small tight charges when waying in on the fly?
I don't do swaging on repair jobs too often either. Installs... usually. Repairs... not so much. Many times the accessibility issues seem a lot more expensive than the buck or two for the fittings.
great tip on the reason why you should mount the TXV upside down... never thought about that... The super heat was a bit high though. The back pressure looked OK though. Maybe place the temp clamp inside the box next to the bulb next time. I was always taught 6" after the evap coil. have you ever thought of adjusting TXV's like Jim P.?
Hey Dave I got a traulsen refrigerator rht232wut-fhs and I was wondering what the problem is on it. It fully runs good but it just won’t go under 50f would you possibly know what’s the issues?
Have you tried the Viper pan treatment? Just got some in today from TruTech along with other viper products I could not find locally. Seeing that vacuum pump perched on top the ladder.... my luck it takes a dive!
Great job Norcal Pal! I see your vacuume was slaming @ first then started to slowdown? Chris S from HVAC VIDEOS says that those dam valves leak and you can't pull a decent vacuume. Do you think that was happening ? The gas was leaking?
I think refrigerant in compressor oil. And gas and goes lead to a dirty system and vacuum times are always long on older systems when pulling with the compressor Oil in vacuum
hello Dave, great repair video. a question: it would not prevent the fast korosion the condensate loop if you einsprüht before installation with paint. The corosion is indeed by electrolysis (copper coil / kondenspan and water) it is practically a voltabatterie.wenn now the coil is insulated with paint spray, there could be no voltage and the condensing coil would last longer. many Greetings walter
So I brought a “beverage air” refrigerator back to life after it sat in the restaurant kitchen for almost ten years not plugged in. It’s cooling too cold! Do you think this could be a thermostat issue or a Freon issue? My boss likes sicking me after her dying appliances and I’ve done a good job at getting things going. The fridge is cooling to about half a degree under zero (I’m in Canada so we go by Celsius here) should I try changing the thermostat? I have an unopened can of R134a and a hose with no gauge. I feel like no matter where I set the thermostat it always cools below zero.
Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C Wow lol sounds like a good investment can be made . Check out amazon if you get it all you need is a heat gun or hair dryer to remove the old screen.the new screen kit comes with repair tools to take the screen out once the glue gets heated
Good vid. Thanks for the Heads up on the Time delay on fans on traulsen. No Traulsens around here. 99.9 percent True refriges and freezers or chinese now.
sounds like they were good candidates to go old school rhs control. that 61-030 or something like that that u are talking about. old school mechanical & gas & go i bet last night.
From what Ive seen, swedging is all good and fine when and where its applicable, but I havent found much use for the method in refrigeration work, stuff is just too small to be banging around on. At least thats my take, I will sweat couplers any day given the choice. One other thing Ive wanted to ask, Dave, do you have a son or young protege you can pass all this wonderful knowledge on to? Would be a wonderful opportunity for the right kid, not sure how much luck you guys have out there with the younger crowd, it can be iffy at best these days.
Sean Givens nope nothing super about it. It has cool features like the hook ups. And fast oil changes, but I can’t say it’s any faster than my Robinair 6cfm.
Good Vid. i was kind shocked no high side access to system. head pressure is kind of critical for me to know. i Like knowing My subcooling too so i know if ive got a column of liquid to feed txv. those little units are all rated at 5 degrees of subcooling.just a engineereing bit of data i found on tech sheets. Evacuation would have been twice as fast pulling from both sides of system because txv & high side compressor valves blocks off liquid side where the water was. YOu had to basically turn the water into vapor and pull it through the txv to remove it. which takes a reallllllly long time. i totally agree water was in that system. u nailed it on that one. as gas was flying by the leaking condensate loop it was pulling in water. a high velocity pull in kind of like how a venturi effect bilge pump system works on some boats as the water rushes by a open hose it creates a low pressure effect and has a sucking action on the hose to pull water from the other end of the hose. thats most likely what happened here. i use " VV " Liquid line Driers now. they have Pressure taps built in on both sides. Part Number --- " EK052S VV " --- or Ek163svv , ek082s vv . Elimates having to put in high side accesss tees any more. Heres a link for " Ek052svv " drier --- www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=B15-360 Heres a Link for " EK163SVV "Drier and part # www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=B15-363
i Don't agree. But, I Can Agree to disagree. We each do it our own way and do what works for us. that's all that matters. let's say it's r-134a - Head pressure could be at 195 and everything might be working ok. You would never know without high side guage. but compressor not going to last too long at those pressures. i just like to allways put high and low in when system is open & with the new VV driers it's not any added work. drier all ready has ports on it. no additional welding.
Dave, I found the best method to clean the drain pan is the use ice machine cleaner to get all the corrosion either after scrubbing out with the scrubby....
And I love the Frank Rizzo comment... I know you know Frank...😂🤣🤪
Always great stuff. I work on a crew that repairs cafeteria equipment & refrigeration at BYU and have gotten a lot of great tips from your videos. Thanks for the time you put into making them.
Geoff Johnson thanks for watching Geoff
That thing was pulling down good with the ballast still open! I pressured tested a mini split against the valve core one day for 15 minutes before I figured out what I was doing. I pushed a lot of nitrogen by it lol. Good repair Dave!
ComfortPlus Heating and Cooling I forgot about the ballast for about 15 minutes then closed it. 😂😂 I was like my pump sounds funny. 😂😂
got warm beer? have no fear for Dave is near!!!
That's pretty neat with loop ! thanks for sharing Dave !
I never use captube driers with desecant beads. I always use 032 or 052 depending on size of units. The bead driers will vibrate the beads and plug up the new captube.
Good work 👍 you don't have to worry
Great vid. I love that pump, works great. I recently got a spin swage kit that fits in the drill. I love it, it's super fast and easy to use. Works great for replacing the loops.
Great job Dave. I really enjoy your videos, they are some of the most informative ones on youtube. We can really tell how much you enjoy your work by the level of excitement and detail you put into your videos. Keep up the good work!
Steven R thanks for watching
Great job Dave.get someR&R
Yeah I agree, sometimes it just isn’t worth the effort to swage when you can just throw a coupler on and be done. Good video Dave, thanks. Sorry about your old iPad....
On soft 1/4 & 3/8 inch use needle nose pliers 60seconds done! You are welcome
404 Refrigeration thanks. That iPad was doomed. Lol it was time to upgrade and the new ones can be had at a reasonable price now.
shuld the green on the copper be cleaned off from time to time?
Nice repair Dave. I'll keep that in mind about the txv when installing for adjust..thanks dude. Have a smooth time snowboarding..hang loose bruh
Nice work. I was thinking you could of added a high side port so that you could sweep N2 before the vac. then you could pull from two locations.
Lee Johnson good idea.
Excellent job 👍👍
Harry Dickson 🤘🤘
Good Video ! Man that System Was Wet ! When u see it slow down at 2,000 like that you know shees wet. buy yourself some of those VV Driers from emerson they have access valves on the drier. thye are like ek052sVV, Great for accessing the high side of the system , no additional welding. i Allways pull vacuums from both sides of the system because i allways want to know my head pressure when the sytem is running and vacuums are quicker. Also When the Vacuums Slow down like that Hook up a Bottle of Dry nitrogen to it and Blow the Shit out of it with Dry nitrogen and pressure test it a bit with 100 psi of nitrogen and relaease it. that will usually take care of it and get the vacuum speed back again. also a oil change on the pump . verify pump will pull it self down still sometimes pumps can get wet real quick and u need to do an immediate oil change. Good Vid !
Nice Quick evac, could you show your most efficient way of moving over to charge after evacuation, how you tie the cylinder back in - do you evacuate the charging hose or do you purge it out? Any tips for these small tight charges when waying in on the fly?
I don't do swaging on repair jobs too often either. Installs... usually. Repairs... not so much. Many times the accessibility issues seem a lot more expensive than the buck or two for the fittings.
Still had the ballast light on at 1810
Nicely done Dave 😎
Felipe Tafolla thanks Feliepe
great tip on the reason why you should mount the TXV upside down... never thought about that... The super heat was a bit high though. The back pressure looked OK though. Maybe place the temp clamp inside the box next to the bulb next time. I was always taught 6" after the evap coil. have you ever thought of adjusting TXV's like Jim P.?
We're suppose to get snow this weekend here in Indiana.
Good one
Nice job.
I have that same swaeging tool 🤣😜
Btw, that superheat seemed a little high to me
bblazeff1 at the compressor it seemed ok to me. For ambient conditions. Those unit sit outside. 👍
@@NorCal-refrigeration ooh I didnt realise that was at the compressor, my foots in mouth lol
That vacuum took way longer then I would have thought.
Rob HVAC system had water in it.
How long did the vacuum actually take to get to 500 microns?
Chris Bivens 35-40 min.
Dave wats the size on the txv 1/2 ton ? On that traulsen
Hey Dave I got a traulsen refrigerator rht232wut-fhs and I was wondering what the problem is on it. It fully runs good but it just won’t go under 50f would you possibly know what’s the issues?
Have you tried the Viper pan treatment? Just got some in today from TruTech along with other viper products I could not find locally.
Seeing that vacuum pump perched on top the ladder.... my luck it takes a dive!
Great job Norcal Pal! I see your vacuume was slaming @ first then started to slowdown? Chris S from HVAC VIDEOS says that those dam valves leak and you can't pull a decent vacuume. Do you think that was happening ? The gas was leaking?
I think refrigerant in compressor oil. And gas and goes lead to a dirty system and vacuum times are always long on older systems when pulling with the compressor Oil in vacuum
Nice nice
Nice repair dude. How’d you like the pump? It slows down a lot after 1600 microns for me. Was thinking about a navac next.
Robert Walsh I need to use it more. That system took for ever to pull down. Moisture in the system.
Yeeeeee
hello Dave, great repair video. a question: it would not prevent the fast korosion the condensate loop if you einsprüht before installation with paint. The corosion is indeed by electrolysis (copper coil / kondenspan and water) it is practically a voltabatterie.wenn now the coil is insulated with paint spray, there could be no voltage and the condensing coil would last longer.
many Greetings
walter
some systems have plastic pans and stainless steel coils for the evap. but they still leak elsewhere and end up getting scraped..
So I brought a “beverage air” refrigerator back to life after it sat in the restaurant kitchen for almost ten years not plugged in. It’s cooling too cold! Do you think this could be a thermostat issue or a Freon issue? My boss likes sicking me after her dying appliances and I’ve done a good job at getting things going. The fridge is cooling to about half a degree under zero (I’m in Canada so we go by Celsius here) should I try changing the thermostat? I have an unopened can of R134a and a hose with no gauge. I feel like no matter where I set the thermostat it always cools below zero.
Ardie McLelland check your charge
I yust buy same vacuum see how it works
Sir after the Evacuation did you charge refrigerant through core removing tool before you unhook the vacuum gauge and core removing tool?
jain toms no I installed the core and went for it.
Ha!! I knew a guy named Frank Rizzo!! Smuggled weed with him in the 80’s. Woo hoo!
Good video. You ever used that ThawzAll? I think that’s the name...
How long did it take you all the repair? Greetings.
tecnico about 2 1/2 -3 hours.
New screen for that I pad wall mart 30 bucks . Real easy to replace
Michael Echevarria we don’t have a wall mart😂 can you believe that?
Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C
Wow lol sounds like a good investment can be made . Check out amazon if you get it all you need is a heat gun or hair dryer to remove the old screen.the new screen kit comes with repair tools to take the screen out once the glue gets heated
Good vid. Thanks for the Heads up on the Time delay on fans on traulsen. No Traulsens around here. 99.9 percent True refriges and freezers or chinese now.
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. I went to a new customer last night all Chinese fridges all warm. Leaks, and melted Dixel controllers. Fun times.
Lol , 🤣 i'll be interested to see that video and what the repairs are going to be. all clogged condensers i bet which melted controllers.
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. Yep. No video the customer was lurking hard 😂😂
sounds like they were good candidates to go old school rhs control. that 61-030 or something like that that u are talking about. old school mechanical & gas & go i bet last night.
Super Tech dont need no stinkin gauges.....thems for rookies
🤣🤣🤣
My new super tech gauge set 😂😂
Great videos Dave! Did Frank Rizzo bash your head with a ratchet? LOL
Paul Y that’s my favorite one. Used car salesmen 😂😂😂😂
You should take your gopro to film some snow bunnies for me
J T I’ll see what I can do
Great vid Super Dave ... You handled that Smurf Boner like a pro ... Lol ... Good vid ...
Eddy 😂😂😂
From what Ive seen, swedging is all good and fine when and where its applicable, but I havent found much use for the method in refrigeration work, stuff is just too small to be banging around on. At least thats my take, I will sweat couplers any day given the choice. One other thing Ive wanted to ask, Dave, do you have a son or young protege you can pass all this wonderful knowledge on to? Would be a wonderful opportunity for the right kid, not sure how much luck you guys have out there with the younger crowd, it can be iffy at best these days.
Repete Myname great question I’ll have my 15 year old helping out this summer is the plan.
@@NorCal-refrigeration : Good deal, young padawan will have a leg up on the competition for sure.
should have probably left the broken gauges in place to keep the manifold sealed up / crud out, until you had new ones =p
throttle bottle those are from 2008 they have had everything through them. 😂😂
That’s on big smurf
Why buy a $300 pneumatic swage device when I have Gurus instant swage? The savings!
Sorry Dave. I’m not impressed with that vac pump. Unless I’m missing something
Sean Givens nope nothing super about it. It has cool features like the hook ups. And fast oil changes, but I can’t say it’s any faster than my Robinair 6cfm.
......R I Z Z O... sizzle chest
Casey Smyth your the only one that caught that Nitz. 🤘🏻🤘🏻
@@NorCal-refrigeration jerky boys were the shit back in the day......" i was playing the flute like this, and he bit me in the eye"
Casey Smyth 😂😂😂👍
Good Vid. i was kind shocked no high side access to system. head pressure is kind of critical for me to know. i Like knowing My subcooling too so i know if ive got a column of liquid to feed txv. those little units are all rated at 5 degrees of subcooling.just a engineereing bit of data i found on tech sheets. Evacuation would have been twice as fast pulling from both sides of system because txv & high side compressor valves blocks off liquid side where the water was. YOu had to basically turn the water into vapor and pull it through the txv to remove it. which takes a reallllllly long time. i totally agree water was in that system. u nailed it on that one. as gas was flying by the leaking condensate loop it was pulling in water. a high velocity pull in kind of like how a venturi effect bilge pump system works on some boats as the water rushes by a open hose it creates a low pressure effect and has a sucking action on the hose to pull water from the other end of the hose. thats most likely what happened here. i use " VV " Liquid line Driers now. they have Pressure taps built in on both sides. Part Number --- " EK052S VV " ---
or Ek163svv , ek082s vv . Elimates having to put in high side accesss tees any more.
Heres a link for " Ek052svv " drier --- www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=B15-360
Heres a Link for " EK163SVV "Drier and part # www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=B15-363
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. No need for highside port unless your having issues that need troubleshooting
Think cavitation killed that txv, as for the condensate loop, put it underneath the condensate pan instead of in it. No moisture no corrosion.
i Don't agree. But, I Can Agree to disagree. We each do it our own way and do what works for us. that's all that matters. let's say it's r-134a - Head pressure could be at 195 and everything might be working ok. You would never know without high side guage. but compressor not going to last too long at those pressures. i just like to allways put high and low in when system is open & with the new VV driers it's not any added work. drier all ready has ports on it. no additional welding.