Read the description for all the links. Otherwise, head to HeavyHitch for 5% off your order with discount code GWT! www.heavyhitch.com. Links to the ballast boxes are in the description. Thanks for watching!
Courtney, as a Heavy Hitch dealer, FYI, they make knock-off John Deere suitcase weights at about $1/lb. They look just like the John Deere suitcase weights without the deer logo. I was going to call them to see if they will let me pick them up myself, because my job brings me near them in Winona Minnesota.
You forgot to add the weight of the ballet box in your calculations. It weighs 130lbs. I was able to put 700lbs of concrete in mine. Total weight 830lbs. Came out to 42 cents per pound.
They aren't knock off. That style of suitcase weight has been around for years for every manufacturer. JD simply makes them with their own logo. Sure, if you live right near Heavy Hitch, then you might be able to pick them up, otherwise you need to factor in freight.
I did not forget the ballast box. Right from the Titan website, the box holds 5.3 cubic feet. I rounded up to 5.5 cubic feet to make the math simpler. Sand/gravel/concrete all weigh in at basically 10 lbs per .1 cubic foot. Therefore, 550 lbs of ballast weight plus 132 lbs for the ballast box is 680 lbs when rounded to the nearest 10.
Wheel weights and liquid apply weight directly to the ground, the 3 point boxes and suitcase weights in general add weight to your axle bearings. (Along with using up the 3 point lift capacity)
Great video. Where the weight is located is also important. Ballast weight behind the rear axle is "worth" more due to the lever arm distance of the ballast center of mass to the axle when you are doing FEL work. Location will stress different components. I have wheel weights (440#), i-match, a 400# grader box, and 160# of steel weights on the back and my JD 3320 will still lift rear tires if I'm not careful with the pallet forks! Thanks again.
Thanks for bringing attention to the importance of ballast for safety. People don't realize it is critical. Ya gotta have it... It's not optional with a loader on a subcompact like the 1023e or 1025r. You mentioned DIY solutions, I wanted to add a note about the ease of liquid as a DIY product. Around me, "beet juice" is 4$ per gallon cash and carry, and around 11lbs/gallon (borrow some buckets). If you can take a wheel off and get the valve side bead broken(a tire shop can do this for 5$..or you can get a cheap bead breaker for $40ish)... You can just pour it in. It's not toxic...good thing..'cause it is messy. Real easy Saturday project...liquid weight is nice because it keeps the center of gravity real low. Also.. plastic wheel weights are cheap, and can reduce the amount of other ballast you'll need to add. And... Keep in mind, ballast hanging off the 3 point is far more effective, when using a front loader, than wheel weights or liquid(think seesaw... the back tires should be the pivot)...you will have to have 3 point ballast. Great Videos!!!
My Dad used to put the drawbar across the lift arms, bolt a 55 gallon barrel to it, wrap a chain around the top and into the top link bracket on the tractor and fill it with sand and water. Don't know what it weighed but it was cheap. I use large suitcase weights with the same type of drawbar stuck thru the handles and a piece of metal thick enough to tighten them down like they are on a bracket. You can then put the quick hitch adaptors on the drawbar and set them down and go to whatever implement then back as needed. They won't fall over if you use some sense. I prefer this as any method for weighting without body building all the time. Liquid is fine but does not let Radial tires spread out for bigger contact area.
I have both a subcompact and a x7 series tractor. I have filled both with sub freezing windshield washer fluid as this will not corrode or wear rubber. I would recommend this and much cheaper.
Small 30 gallon barrel/piece of plastic culvert filled with cement fits centered between lift arms and less than $100 to make Heavy hitch is ridiculous in price might as well buy a useful implement
Thanks! Depends on the implement. Some can be damaged easier, stick out further, etc. Just want to be careful. Plus, not all weigh enough to make much difference.
Hitting up the Wal-Marts in the area for RV antifreeze this time of year at a 1.00 a gallon on sale that didn't sell over the winter. That what I used in mine .
Big fan of the Heavy Hitch and suitcase weights. It is a nice low profile so it doesn't stick out as far off the back as a box. Their cart makes it easy to store out of the way. The hitch receiver is the right height, where on a box it is at the bottom and way too low most of them time if that matters for what you do. I need to move my trailer around so that point is important. I can also hang 5 of those suitcase weights on the front bumper of a 1025r when I need front weight instead.. where a box doesn't help with that at all.
Yep, definitely other benefits to suitcase weights. This video is geared towards finding the cheapest ballast solutions. Heavy Hitch rocks! Thanks for watching!
I have a 2110 older Ford. I have ballist 4 wheel weights per tyre. Even with an implement on the back I was surprised just how easy it was to get the back wheels off the ground. Was using the lift not the curl function on my 776A loader trying to pull a small tree stump. Damn near rolled it... Always pay close attention to your machine.
I'm really happy I found your channel. Just prepping myself before I get my new 3039R. I think I will go with the Ballast Box and fill it with concrete. Suit case weights are too expensive and a pain to put on and off all the time. I am getting a iMatch Quick Hitch so easy on and off when weight is needed. Thanks for the great videos!
You can build your own ballast barrel for approx $150. I made mine from a 55gal barrel, 12...80# bags of quickcrete, a drawl bar from amazon, a top link from amazon, and 1....4' iron bar. That's approx 1000# of weight for $150 which comes out to $.15 per #. Not bad. You can also make a smaller version out of smaller barrels or even 5 gal buckets
John Francisco I used the same idea. Works great. I found out from a contractor 55 gallon barrel of concrete is close to 900 lbs plus the iron that went into it. To make it look nicer got JD green paint made me happy. I do wish I had put a hitch receiver in. By the way I was having a house built at that time. When they had an over load of concrete I had them fill my barrel. All in all very inexpensive to do it that way. Have a safe day
If you live in/near a city you could borrow a couple squares of concrete out of the sidewalk. If you need it for an extended time you could just put some construction tape and cones up, could probably keep using them indefinitely this way in Michigan 😂. Everywhere is always under construction 😁
We must define “cheapest” option. My definition, cheapest equals this…. Purchase price - used selling price = true cost. Now compare these options again. Rusty but perfectly fine wheel or suitcase weights can easily be found on Facebook Marketplace, wire brushed and repainted to look good as new, then used for many years, then sold where you don’t just get your original money back but you also recapture any inflation. So true cost becomes zero. Nothing. Zip.
Good video, one caveat you missed ok the wheel weights for the 1 series, though. Deere offers a plastic lined 50# wheel weight that significantly cheaper than the cast iron weights. I went the plastic weights, liquid ballast, and an implement (usually my box blade) to accomplish my ballast needs. Thanks for the videos!
I missed a lot of options. These are just four popular options. However, you can't stack the plastic weights, only one per side. I couldn't tell if the price online included hardware or not. Without hardware, but including freight it was $229.96 or approximately $2.30 a pound.
I have a ballast box on a jd 755. I dont know how much it weighs but its heavy....it has a bunch of 1 gallon coolant jugs, each filled with (free) old used lead wheel weights
Price per pound of rear ballast? I think I have you beat by a 'country mile.' I generally keep a box blade on my 24 hp tractor, so to add cheap ballast I put some 3/4" plywood on the angle iron in the center and strapped a plastic 30 gallon drum on top. Then I filled it almost all the way with water. POOF, an almost free ~200 some odd pound counterweight. I could have used beet juice or calcium [uugh!] but I like water so when I am done I just drain it off and remove the empty drum by hand. Of course I could have used a 55 gallon drum if I wanted more weight, or add some iron weight on the sides of the box blade. The same idea can be used with pallet forks, a disc, or most any implement with a somewhat flat top. Keep up the informative videos.
I just mount either the tiller or the back-blade on the 3-pt if I need rear weight... That way I don't have to buy/engineer some ballast.. FWIW.. (JD 3039R)
That works well, if you have the room to move. The blade or any implement does stick out a bit, so can limit how close you can back up to stuff. A rotary hoe or bush hog wouldn't like being backed into a tree and a silo wouldn't appreciate being backed into with anything. A ballast box gives you a few more feet to play with too.
Liquid ballast questions... Can liquid ballast be pumped out and reused if you replace or change tires? I'd also be sure use a non toxic form of liquid ballast in case you get a puncture. Do you know if you do get a puncture, is it possible to save the liquid ballast by rotating the tire so the puncture is at the top of the tire and possibly using a tire plugging kit to seal it? 'Course, I'm sure that'll depend on just how bad the puncture is in the tire.
Not sure, perhaps it could be drained, but don't know how. Typically, the liquid is only just above the top of the rim, so some air space near the top.
I'm not sure what the non toxic ballast option in called in the US, however here in the east coast of Canada we use Agri-Lim 50. The issue with liquid ballast during a puncture is once the tire has a hole; even if you place the hole at 12 o-clock, the weight of your tractor pushing down on the tire will push the remaining air out of the tire and proceed to push fluid out until it comes to rest on the rim. So yes.. you can plug the tire with a high quality HD plug kit, however you WILL lose ballast at that point. Additionally, the plugged hole will then be stressed more than usual as the tire goes around due to the internal pressures of a liquid filled tire. My suggestion would be if a puncture happens, spend a few extra dollars to take it to a tire shop, vulcanize the tractor tire correctly and refill. It's still going to be less expensive than flat out replacing the tire.
Thanks for the fast talking video.... seems like there is a difference between weight on the wheels vs weight on the 3 point. Weight further back on the tractor will move the center of gravity back per pound added. Maybe something like 100 pounds on the wheel equals 75 pounds on the 3 point. Can you comment on this?
Agreed, yet most don't weigh anywhere near as much as a loaded ballast box. However, you can typically hang suitcase weights off the sides of a box blade which is a nice option.
Why get balast. Just put some random implement on your 3 -point when using your loader. The only weights that make sense are suitcase ones for the front.
I use mine for forest work, no way do i want some large 3pt implement swinging around behind me. I prefer the taller type ballast box as it tucks up closer to the tractor and doesn't get in the way (no swing when turning).
Same. Bout 600 in the tires, then usually the box blade Wich is easily 400 hanging 3-4 feet from center of rear axle, hasn't been a issue. Plus anytime I use the loader, the box blade is generally needed
I use my backhoe as ballast weight in summer and a back blade in winter, my tires have beet juice in them. The heaviest weights I move with the loader in winter is snow.
I run liquid ballast, it’s a no brainer. I’m trying to keep an open mind, but I’m having trouble justifying the expense of a ballast box. Why not just throw on a common implement like a box blade (or grading blade). It’s relatively compact so doesn’t have big impact on maneuverability. They are relatively heavy. Pretty much everyone who owns a tractor can benefit from owning a box blade or grading blade. Why have more implements cluttering up your yard? As you mention, an operator should be familiar with the loader/tractor requirements, but in my case liquid ballast and a box blade easily meets requirements. What are the benefits of owning an additional implement / ballast box?
I'm not aware of any relatively inexpensive box blade or grader blade that meets the minimum ballast requirement along with liquid ballast. A 48" box blade weighs around 350 lbs. 270 lbs of liquid ballast in 1025r tires. Only 620 lbs of total ballast, 430 lbs short of the MINIMUM ballast requirement for that model which is 1,050 lbs. I could give you many other examples like this one.
My 2023 John Deere 2038R manual says just enough to prevent wheel slippage. Not helpful at all. I have a ballast box loaded on by tractor should I get weights for the front of the tractor when snowplowing?
Am I wrong in thinking that ballast weight hanging off of your three-point hitch is going to be more effective, pound for pound, than ballast weight in your tires, because it's further back, utilizing leverage?
Should be priced per newton meter or ft/lbs of torque around the front axle if you want an apples to apples to apples comparison because the skinny kid can life the fat kid on the teeter totter depending on placement relative to the fulcrum.
Good Works Tractors ok I was getting a professional opinion and is that liquid ballast that same as just putting water in the tires that’s something dad used to do on the farm if he didn’t have enough weight he put water in the tires
Lol 😂 with our compact if we got something heavy on the front end normally me or my dad will stand on the back 3pt or who ever is not running the tractor. Now that’s the cheapest and quickest for only a moment use
So are all those rear weights safe when going uphill? I have a little 1023E I've been driving up our road/trail from the bottom of our property to the top. I haven't really noticed any instability as long as I keep the bucket lower to the ground and it's somewhat steep, one part is a 100 ft different between the top and bottom of the hill. I'm upgrading to a 3033R and wonder if I need a ballast box?
I’ve seen people literally hang stuff off of the three point hitch. 😂😂 I went to a tractor pull once and there was a golf cart parked with countess John Deere suitcase weights!
I have a 2025R and I’m struggling to find ballast options for the front end. When I run my rotary cutter my front tires are light and I sometimes have trouble turning. It seems like I should be able to hang suitcase weights off the front. What do you recommend?
Awesome detail....I'm struggling with the tippiness of my 3520. I do have a ballast box full of concrete and wish it had the 2" receiver on the bottom. The dealer talked me out of the wheel ballast because of the corrosive product they use in Canada.....but I might get a second opinion. I will make the investment on the wheel weights. I did watch a video last night where an owner of a new 3046R installed 4" wheel spacers. I called my JD dealer and they said they don't sell them and would not warranty any issues as a result. Do you have any insight into wheel spacers?
I work with BORA wheel spacers. You can get 5% off with discount code GWT at motorsport-tech.com They actually sell a lot of them to OEM manufacturers. Not sure why your dealer is saying they wouldn't honor warranty?
I put a set of wheel weights on my 3520 and it isn't enough, barely compensates for the front snowblower. I also have a 4066r now and the inverted blower on the rear makes it much more stable. I'm planning to add washer fluid or beet juice (if I can find) to both of them. You may also want to look at your tire setup, as swapping rear side for side may widen your stance and add stability.
How many pounds per gallon is T.L. 90 ? I just put 11 gallons of beet juice in the rear tires of my 2019 1025R on 5-5-20. 11 pounds a gallon. $2.60 a gallon. Its a whole new machine now ! Previously I used my 260B backhoe as ballast. For the avg lift I can get away with just the beet juice doing the job !
Another thing that may go overlooked too is wheel weights and filled tires don't add any strain the the tractor, it's "unsprung" so to speak. Hanging 1000lbs off the back is more wear and tear on the 3pt and bearings etc.. Again, maybe not a huge deal but something to think about too.
You need the weight out back to remove the weight from the front axle. If you have all the ballast in/on the rear tires then all the weight you lift with the loader is on the front axle. I know of a farm tractor that had it’s front axle broken on at least two occasions because there was no ballast behind the rear axle. The tires were loaded and had wheel weights. The rear end stayed on the ground but the front axle broke. That wouldn’t have happened with the proper ballast out back on the 3 pt. It was a JD 4020 with a 158 loader.
@@rayhochstetler2659 I don't disagree that ballast behind the axle will help. It is more efficient use of any weight, just pointing out unsprung weight doesn't load the tractor any more than what the tractor already weighs. The main objective is to keep the rear wheels on the ground though, for stability, and for what a lot of people forget about, BRAKES!. Now onto the issue of breaking axles. I'd like to see someone calculate the percentage a full load on a 3pt would actually take off the front wheels. If you're breaking axles it sounds like there is more to it though. You'd think there would be a decent gap between what the loader could actually lift as compared to the front axle weight limit would be. Edit- I looked up a JD4020, was it even designed to have a FEL on it? It appears to be a pretty small axle to be adding an FEL to it. I'd say that's more of a design issue. Surely overloading the FEL will tear up the front end a little faster with minimal ballast, I'm just taking exception to the "breaking axles" remark.
@@rayhochstetler2659 This is analogous to a heavy snow plow blade on a pickup. Weight behind the rear axle is required so as not to exceed the front axle weight rating.
But wait. If I have the ballast box filled, and I take if off the machine, then if I tried to lift the box up with the pallet forks, I dont have any ballast on the back of my tractor. Oh, the irony of it all LOL
Another advantage of the ballast box, in addition to the $/lbs., is the ease of removal. Wheel weights, extra rear wheels, and filled tires can’t be as easily be removed as the loader when you want to do some mowing with a belly mower
Read the description for all the links. Otherwise, head to HeavyHitch for 5% off your order with discount code GWT! www.heavyhitch.com. Links to the ballast boxes are in the description. Thanks for watching!
Courtney, as a Heavy Hitch dealer, FYI, they make knock-off John Deere suitcase weights at about $1/lb. They look just like the John Deere suitcase weights without the deer logo. I was going to call them to see if they will let me pick them up myself, because my job brings me near them in Winona Minnesota.
You forgot to add the weight of the ballet box in your calculations. It weighs 130lbs.
I was able to put 700lbs of concrete in mine. Total weight 830lbs. Came out to 42 cents per pound.
They aren't knock off. That style of suitcase weight has been around for years for every manufacturer. JD simply makes them with their own logo. Sure, if you live right near Heavy Hitch, then you might be able to pick them up, otherwise you need to factor in freight.
I did not forget the ballast box. Right from the Titan website, the box holds 5.3 cubic feet. I rounded up to 5.5 cubic feet to make the math simpler. Sand/gravel/concrete all weigh in at basically 10 lbs per .1 cubic foot. Therefore, 550 lbs of ballast weight plus 132 lbs for the ballast box is 680 lbs when rounded to the nearest 10.
@@GoodWorksTractors I just filled one of these. It took 11-60lb bags of concrete and 5 gallons of water(40lbs). That's 700lbs. Plus the box 830lbs. 👍
Wheel weights and liquid apply weight directly to the ground, the 3 point boxes and suitcase weights in general add weight to your axle bearings. (Along with using up the 3 point lift capacity)
We used "winter" windshield washer fluid. Around 1.00 a gallon and not corrosive. Probably not as heavy as beet juice, but much cheaper.
Liquid in the tires in my opinion is the way to go, got it in a Ford 4600, Ford 3000, and a John Deere 5320
55 gallon steel barrel, 3pt drawbar stuck through it, top link bracket. Fill with sand
Great video. Where the weight is located is also important. Ballast weight behind the rear axle is "worth" more due to the lever arm distance of the ballast center of mass to the axle when you are doing FEL work. Location will stress different components. I have wheel weights (440#), i-match, a 400# grader box, and 160# of steel weights on the back and my JD 3320 will still lift rear tires if I'm not careful with the pallet forks! Thanks again.
100% agree.
Thanks for bringing attention to the importance of ballast for safety. People don't realize it is critical. Ya gotta have it... It's not optional with a loader on a subcompact like the 1023e or 1025r.
You mentioned DIY solutions, I wanted to add a note about the ease of liquid as a DIY product. Around me, "beet juice" is 4$ per gallon cash and carry, and around 11lbs/gallon (borrow some buckets). If you can take a wheel off and get the valve side bead broken(a tire shop can do this for 5$..or you can get a cheap bead breaker for $40ish)... You can just pour it in. It's not toxic...good thing..'cause it is messy. Real easy Saturday project...liquid weight is nice because it keeps the center of gravity real low.
Also.. plastic wheel weights are cheap, and can reduce the amount of other ballast you'll need to add.
And... Keep in mind, ballast hanging off the 3 point is far more effective, when using a front loader, than wheel weights or liquid(think seesaw... the back tires should be the pivot)...you will have to have 3 point ballast.
Great Videos!!!
My Dad used to put the drawbar across the lift arms, bolt a 55 gallon barrel to it, wrap a chain around the top and into the top link bracket on the tractor and fill it with sand and water. Don't know what it weighed but it was cheap. I use large suitcase weights with the same type of drawbar stuck thru the handles and a piece of metal thick enough to tighten them down like they are on a bracket. You can then put the quick hitch adaptors on the drawbar and set them down and go to whatever implement then back as needed. They won't fall over if you use some sense. I prefer this as any method for weighting without body building all the time. Liquid is fine but does not let Radial tires spread out for bigger contact area.
I have both a subcompact and a x7 series tractor. I have filled both with sub freezing windshield washer fluid as this will not corrode or wear rubber. I would recommend this and much cheaper.
Yep, lots of ways to accomplish it!
Small 30 gallon barrel/piece of plastic culvert filled with cement fits centered between lift arms and less than $100 to make
Heavy hitch is ridiculous in price might as well buy a useful implement
Don't forget with liquid ballast you can do non-corrosive RV antifreeze in the tires. Or if your down south, and don't care about the rims... Water
Thanks for doing all the math! There is always two sides to every story but only one side to a fact. Math makes it clearer for sure. Good work! 😉
Are there any cons to using rear implements as ballast - like say a rototiller?
Thanks! Depends on the implement. Some can be damaged easier, stick out further, etc. Just want to be careful. Plus, not all weigh enough to make much difference.
Great info Courtney, quick tip, look for people selling weight bench sets, good heavy weight for a decent price, who works out anyway?, lol.
Yep, definitely a good idea! Don't get me started...treadmill covered in dust, gym membership...um, where's that gym located again? Ha!
Hitting up the Wal-Marts in the area for RV antifreeze this time of year at a 1.00 a gallon on sale that didn't sell over the winter. That what I used in mine .
Good idea!
Big fan of the Heavy Hitch and suitcase weights. It is a nice low profile so it doesn't stick out as far off the back as a box. Their cart makes it easy to store out of the way. The hitch receiver is the right height, where on a box it is at the bottom and way too low most of them time if that matters for what you do. I need to move my trailer around so that point is important. I can also hang 5 of those suitcase weights on the front bumper of a 1025r when I need front weight instead.. where a box doesn't help with that at all.
Yep, definitely other benefits to suitcase weights. This video is geared towards finding the cheapest ballast solutions. Heavy Hitch rocks! Thanks for watching!
just bought a ballast box that is compatible with my iMatch quick hitch.. I used this option for ballast as I have 2 acres of Decomposed Granite.
I have a 2110 older Ford. I have ballist 4 wheel weights per tyre. Even with an implement on the back I was surprised just how easy it was to get the back wheels off the ground. Was using the lift not the curl function on my 776A loader trying to pull a small tree stump. Damn near rolled it... Always pay close attention to your machine.
Yes, agreed! Thanks for watching!
I'm really happy I found your channel. Just prepping myself before I get my new 3039R. I think I will go with the Ballast Box and fill it with concrete. Suit case weights are too expensive and a pain to put on and off all the time. I am getting a iMatch Quick Hitch so easy on and off when weight is needed. Thanks for the great videos!
Hands down one of the best youtube tractor videos out there. Thank you!
You can build your own ballast barrel for approx $150. I made mine from a 55gal barrel, 12...80# bags of quickcrete, a drawl bar from amazon, a top link from amazon, and 1....4' iron bar. That's approx 1000# of weight for $150 which comes out to $.15 per #. Not bad. You can also make a smaller version out of smaller barrels or even 5 gal buckets
John Francisco I used the same idea. Works great. I found out from a contractor 55 gallon barrel of concrete is close to 900 lbs plus the iron that went into it. To make it look nicer got JD green paint made me happy. I do wish I had put a hitch receiver in. By the way I was having a house built at that time. When they had an over load of concrete I had them fill my barrel. All in all very inexpensive to do it that way. Have a safe day
If you live in/near a city you could borrow a couple squares of concrete out of the sidewalk. If you need it for an extended time you could just put some construction tape and cones up, could probably keep using them indefinitely this way in Michigan 😂. Everywhere is always under construction 😁
Ha!
740 pounds of MgCl water mix in my Lo-Boy rears. Cost $48. Use tubed tires, it's "less corrosive" but still pretty bad.
We must define “cheapest” option.
My definition, cheapest equals this….
Purchase price
- used selling price
= true cost.
Now compare these options again.
Rusty but perfectly fine wheel or suitcase weights can easily be found on Facebook Marketplace, wire brushed and repainted to look good as new, then used for many years, then sold where you don’t just get your original money back but you also recapture any inflation.
So true cost becomes zero. Nothing. Zip.
Good video, one caveat you missed ok the wheel weights for the 1 series, though. Deere offers a plastic lined 50# wheel weight that significantly cheaper than the cast iron weights. I went the plastic weights, liquid ballast, and an implement (usually my box blade) to accomplish my ballast needs. Thanks for the videos!
I missed a lot of options. These are just four popular options. However, you can't stack the plastic weights, only one per side. I couldn't tell if the price online included hardware or not. Without hardware, but including freight it was $229.96 or approximately $2.30 a pound.
If The liquid is calcium it will rot your rims been there done that
Even if you put in a tube if you develop a leak it still does the same thing
I have a ballast box on a jd 755. I dont know how much it weighs but its heavy....it has a bunch of 1 gallon coolant jugs, each filled with (free) old used lead wheel weights
Thanks for the nice info . What an awesome channel I appreciate it
Price per pound of rear ballast? I think I have you beat by a 'country mile.' I generally keep a box blade on my 24 hp tractor, so to add cheap ballast I put some 3/4" plywood on the angle iron in the center and strapped a plastic 30 gallon drum on top. Then I filled it almost all the way with water. POOF, an almost free ~200 some odd pound counterweight. I could have used beet juice or calcium [uugh!] but I like water so when I am done I just drain it off and remove the empty drum by hand. Of course I could have used a 55 gallon drum if I wanted more weight, or add some iron weight on the sides of the box blade. The same idea can be used with pallet forks, a disc, or most any implement with a somewhat flat top. Keep up the informative videos.
Thank you. Great review. You're good. Keep it up
Thanks a lot!
I just mount either the tiller or the back-blade on the 3-pt if I need rear weight... That way I don't have to buy/engineer some ballast.. FWIW.. (JD 3039R)
Thanks for watching Lee!
Lee Christianson lol same if I need a little weight I use a boxblade if I need a lot I put on a brush hog that things like 500 lbs for my 2210
That works well, if you have the room to move. The blade or any implement does stick out a bit, so can limit how close you can back up to stuff. A rotary hoe or bush hog wouldn't like being backed into a tree and a silo wouldn't appreciate being backed into with anything. A ballast box gives you a few more feet to play with too.
@@hoyks1 Agreed... I use the tiller most often, because it sits closest to the tractor..
Good stuff as always! Thank you!
Liquid ballast questions... Can liquid ballast be pumped out and reused if you replace or change tires? I'd also be sure use a non toxic form of liquid ballast in case you get a puncture. Do you know if you do get a puncture, is it possible to save the liquid ballast by rotating the tire so the puncture is at the top of the tire and possibly using a tire plugging kit to seal it? 'Course, I'm sure that'll depend on just how bad the puncture is in the tire.
Not sure, perhaps it could be drained, but don't know how. Typically, the liquid is only just above the top of the rim, so some air space near the top.
I'm not sure what the non toxic ballast option in called in the US, however here in the east coast of Canada we use Agri-Lim 50.
The issue with liquid ballast during a puncture is once the tire has a hole; even if you place the hole at 12 o-clock, the weight of your tractor pushing down on the tire will push the remaining air out of the tire and proceed to push fluid out until it comes to rest on the rim.
So yes.. you can plug the tire with a high quality HD plug kit, however you WILL lose ballast at that point. Additionally, the plugged hole will then be stressed more than usual as the tire goes around due to the internal pressures of a liquid filled tire.
My suggestion would be if a puncture happens, spend a few extra dollars to take it to a tire shop, vulcanize the tractor tire correctly and refill. It's still going to be less expensive than flat out replacing the tire.
Fill box with as much scrap steel as possible (more than double the density of sand) fill around it with sand
Thanks for the fast talking video.... seems like there is a difference between weight on the wheels vs weight on the 3 point. Weight further back on the tractor will move the center of gravity back per pound added. Maybe something like 100 pounds on the wheel equals 75 pounds on the 3 point. Can you comment on this?
Yes, I agree there is a benefit to the weight being further back. I'm sure there's a ratio, but I have yet to figure it out.
A round bale is a cheap way to ballast your tractor. Or make a concrete block. It's not like you always need a lot of ballast.
Lots of ways to do it, these are four popular options. Thanks for watching!
Box blades are also popular way to ballast the back end of a tractor. The extra width might occasionally be an issue over the ballast boxes, though.
Agreed, yet most don't weigh anywhere near as much as a loaded ballast box. However, you can typically hang suitcase weights off the sides of a box blade which is a nice option.
I think back to my elementary teacher and me saying I won't need math when I grow up. I swear I hear her giggling
Ha! I think of my high school math teachers with Trig and Calculus!
Used antifreeze (look for used oil buyers in your area) is quite inexpensive and corrosion-free.
Sewer pipe filled with concrete. Doubles as a roller.
Why get balast. Just put some random implement on your 3 -point when using your loader. The only weights that make sense are suitcase ones for the front.
You probably should watch the Ultimate Ballast Weight Guide video.
I use mine for forest work, no way do i want some large 3pt implement swinging around behind me. I prefer the taller type ballast box as it tucks up closer to the tractor and doesn't get in the way (no swing when turning).
Same. Bout 600 in the tires, then usually the box blade Wich is easily 400 hanging 3-4 feet from center of rear axle, hasn't been a issue. Plus anytime I use the loader, the box blade is generally needed
I use my backhoe as ballast weight in summer and a back blade in winter, my tires have beet juice in them. The heaviest weights I move with the loader in winter is snow.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed!
i use a round-bell for my wight which with round bell and spike = 1500lb on the back
Dont think i heard you mention the additional weight from the heavy hitch. Counts as weight, bringing the cost per pound down, a little.
But if you are trying to counterweight the loader weight behind the tractor does much more (leverage arm) than in the tires either liquid or weights.
I run liquid ballast, it’s a no brainer. I’m trying to keep an open mind, but I’m having trouble justifying the expense of a ballast box. Why not just throw on a common implement like a box blade (or grading blade). It’s relatively compact so doesn’t have big impact on maneuverability. They are relatively heavy. Pretty much everyone who owns a tractor can benefit from owning a box blade or grading blade. Why have more implements cluttering up your yard? As you mention, an operator should be familiar with the loader/tractor requirements, but in my case liquid ballast and a box blade easily meets requirements. What are the benefits of owning an additional implement / ballast box?
I'm not aware of any relatively inexpensive box blade or grader blade that meets the minimum ballast requirement along with liquid ballast. A 48" box blade weighs around 350 lbs. 270 lbs of liquid ballast in 1025r tires. Only 620 lbs of total ballast, 430 lbs short of the MINIMUM ballast requirement for that model which is 1,050 lbs. I could give you many other examples like this one.
Good info!
My 2023 John Deere 2038R manual says just enough to prevent wheel slippage. Not helpful at all.
I have a ballast box loaded on by tractor should I get weights for the front of the tractor when snowplowing?
Am I wrong in thinking that ballast weight hanging off of your three-point hitch is going to be more effective, pound for pound, than ballast weight in your tires, because it's further back, utilizing leverage?
Yes, I 100% agree with you on that.
Should be priced per newton meter or ft/lbs of torque around the front axle if you want an apples to apples to apples comparison because the skinny kid can life the fat kid on the teeter totter depending on placement relative to the fulcrum.
What about foam filling the tires and if that works then ur tires can’t and won’t go flat or would that not give very much balest
I don't think it would give much ballast?
Good Works Tractors ok I was getting a professional opinion and is that liquid ballast that same as just putting water in the tires that’s something dad used to do on the farm if he didn’t have enough weight he put water in the tires
Big G water has the potential to rust out your wheels vs's other fluids and the freezing issue.
rtz549 oh true
Lol 😂 with our compact if we got something heavy on the front end normally me or my dad will stand on the back 3pt or who ever is not running the tractor. Now that’s the cheapest and quickest for only a moment use
Yeah, I've had a little help like that before too :)
So are all those rear weights safe when going uphill? I have a little 1023E I've been driving up our road/trail from the bottom of our property to the top. I haven't really noticed any instability as long as I keep the bucket lower to the ground and it's somewhat steep, one part is a 100 ft different between the top and bottom of the hill. I'm upgrading to a 3033R and wonder if I need a ballast box?
Do kabota dealers usually ship their tractors with ballast weight in the tires?
Im here....better late then never lol
😂👍👌
I’ve seen people literally hang stuff off of the three point hitch. 😂😂 I went to a tractor pull once and there was a golf cart parked with countess John Deere suitcase weights!
Ha, nice!
If I leave the backhoe on the tractor do I still need extra weight?
What kind of tires on the rear of your 1025R ?
Carlisle Versa Turf
I have a 2025R and I’m struggling to find ballast options for the front end. When I run my rotary cutter my front tires are light and I sometimes have trouble turning. It seems like I should be able to hang suitcase weights off the front. What do you recommend?
There should be a weight bracket for the front end to hang suitcase weights
Would the 50lbs ×2 co-incide with the liquide ballast internal liquide tire weight for the 1025r
100 lbs of wheel weight per side vs 130 lbs of weight with liquid ballast
@@GoodWorksTractors okie dokie, thankya take care
Awesome detail....I'm struggling with the tippiness of my 3520. I do have a ballast box full of concrete and wish it had the 2" receiver on the bottom. The dealer talked me out of the wheel ballast because of the corrosive product they use in Canada.....but I might get a second opinion. I will make the investment on the wheel weights. I did watch a video last night where an owner of a new 3046R installed 4" wheel spacers. I called my JD dealer and they said they don't sell them and would not warranty any issues as a result. Do you have any insight into wheel spacers?
I work with BORA wheel spacers. You can get 5% off with discount code GWT at motorsport-tech.com They actually sell a lot of them to OEM manufacturers. Not sure why your dealer is saying they wouldn't honor warranty?
I put a set of wheel weights on my 3520 and it isn't enough, barely compensates for the front snowblower.
I also have a 4066r now and the inverted blower on the rear makes it much more stable.
I'm planning to add washer fluid or beet juice (if I can find) to both of them.
You may also want to look at your tire setup, as swapping rear side for side may widen your stance and add stability.
How many pounds per gallon is T.L. 90 ? I just put 11 gallons of beet juice in the rear tires of my 2019 1025R on 5-5-20. 11 pounds a gallon. $2.60 a gallon. Its a whole new machine now ! Previously I used my 260B backhoe as ballast. For the avg lift I can get away with just the beet juice doing the job !
8lbs per gallon is a good estimate for most liquids you would use for ballast.
Another thing that may go overlooked too is wheel weights and filled tires don't add any strain the the tractor, it's "unsprung" so to speak. Hanging 1000lbs off the back is more wear and tear on the 3pt and bearings etc.. Again, maybe not a huge deal but something to think about too.
You need the weight out back to remove the weight from the front axle. If you have all the ballast in/on the rear tires then all the weight you lift with the loader is on the front axle. I know of a farm tractor that had it’s front axle broken on at least two occasions because there was no ballast behind the rear axle. The tires were loaded and had wheel weights. The rear end stayed on the ground but the front axle broke. That wouldn’t have happened with the proper ballast out back on the 3 pt. It was a JD 4020 with a 158 loader.
@@rayhochstetler2659 I don't disagree that ballast behind the axle will help. It is more efficient use of any weight, just pointing out unsprung weight doesn't load the tractor any more than what the tractor already weighs. The main objective is to keep the rear wheels on the ground though, for stability, and for what a lot of people forget about, BRAKES!. Now onto the issue of breaking axles. I'd like to see someone calculate the percentage a full load on a 3pt would actually take off the front wheels. If you're breaking axles it sounds like there is more to it though. You'd think there would be a decent gap between what the loader could actually lift as compared to the front axle weight limit would be. Edit- I looked up a JD4020, was it even designed to have a FEL on it? It appears to be a pretty small axle to be adding an FEL to it. I'd say that's more of a design issue. Surely overloading the FEL will tear up the front end a little faster with minimal ballast, I'm just taking exception to the "breaking axles" remark.
Yeah, I know what you mean, but the three point is designed to handle a load. I think you need a combination though.
@@rayhochstetler2659 This is analogous to a heavy snow plow blade on a pickup. Weight behind the rear axle is required so as not to exceed the front axle weight rating.
Is filling the ballast box to the top with concrete or leaving it down enough to add all of those suitcase weights heavier?
Use bags of sand or wet, loose sand. It’s not as heavy, but it is cheap and reversible
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But wait. If I have the ballast box filled, and I take if off the machine, then if I tried to lift the box up with the pallet forks, I dont have any ballast on the back of my tractor. Oh, the irony of it all LOL
That crossed my mind as I was saying it. However, I suppose it would be if you had it emptied out perhaps ;)
Another advantage of the ballast box, in addition to the $/lbs., is the ease of removal. Wheel weights, extra rear wheels, and filled tires can’t be as easily be removed as the loader when you want to do some mowing with a belly mower
You need a cart to move it around on...drop straight down from 3pt onto the cart...but good observation 👌
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The operator is the cheapest ballast.
Comment #125!!
I like this channel but all and all ors all about making you spend money and spend at his business.
Madness! I make a channel devoted to promoting my business, but how dare I promote my business! 😂
@@GoodWorksTractors busting your chops man. good looks! we like your content! i'd love to see more budget options . fellow 2025r owner